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Comments
That sounds just like my mom and her nav system. When she first got her car, she said what do I need this for, but now she uses it all the time. I guess you never know how much you will like a car's features until you actually try it.
Yup, they keep adding features, but when will it stop? In 1000 years we'll be so pampered and dumbed down we'll all be like Beavis and Butthead.
I don't have that much extra money now and am just taking it as easy as possible till I can afford to pay someone to fix it.
No! I am not at all happy about it, but what can you do.
Seems to me that this should be done on all braking systems??
Thanks
Wxman
Brake fluid absorbs moisture and the theory is that this could rust the lines and calipers from the inside.
However, since it's a closed system, the question is where does the water come from?
I got a GMS discount from a friend who works at the GM plant in Arlington, TX and got $2000 rebate for year end incentives. I paid just over $23,000 and got $1000 for my '96 Chevy Cavalier with 118200 miles on it so that knocked another grand off the total. So far I am enjoying it, and the only problem I have is the doors locking themselves sometimes while I am in the car with the key in the ignition. I saw that someone else posted the same problem. Not really a big deal, but kind of annoying. Other than that it's Great! I love all the cargo room !
Thanks!!!
tblazed nailed it. The term is hygroscopicity and brake fluid is very hygroscopic.
There is little or no concern with brake system components rusting out. However, the more moisture that is introduced to the system, the lower the boiling point of the brake fluid. As temps rise during brake application, the fluid boils thus introducing air bubbles into the brake lines resulting in brake fade. If this goes unchecked, the pucker-factor can go way up if you need to stop from higher speeds in a hurry!
In the road racing apps I'm most familiar with, we would usually change the fluid three or more times a season. Most auto manufacturers seem to be recommending every two years. That's my plan in May '05.
One more thing, no need to go with high dollar silicone. It has a higher boiling point but is more hygroscopic than glycol, not compatible with glycol and harder to install and bleed. Seek out a quality DOT 3 or 4.
C.B.
C.B.
The DOT-5 silicone brake fluid really isn't recommended for daily drivers anymore. It's not compatible with the others at all, but it is still used on some restoration projects when starting out with a rebuilt clean brake system, because it will lubricate and preserve seals and rubber parts. Stuff supposedly has a slightly "spongy" feel to it, and it doesn't absorb and disperse moisture like DOT-3 or 4.
Wondering if the new Envoys are new and improved? If so then maybe we will lease again. Or, are they about the same and should we buy?
Just want your opinions.
Peter
- WPK
Managed to get it started a number of time by disconnecting the battery to do a reset but finally got tired of that work around in the cold. Had it towed to the dealer.
$31.72 Ignition Switch, $315.00 Labor, $94.00 for the tow.
Where is the ignition switch? Is that the lock on the steering column or is the switch downstream a bit.
They also said there was a poor connection to the starter and it was sparking. At least nothing caught fire.
I can't blame the mechanic for all of this though. People read this and other forums and go to the dealer with print-outs of TSB's and other's complaints and tell the mechanic what to do. When you said that reseting the computer would temporarily repair the problem, it should have told you that the ignition switch was probably not the problem. I would go to the dealer and ask for a refund of the labor charges. Maybe they will apply the labor charges to an extended warranty if you buy it from them.
I should have gone to my local shop rather than the dealer. Thanks for the info.
I just hope it's fixed.
People throw out all kinds of words here and everybody reading the post thinks wow, I've never heard of that but it sounds right. What exactly is a pass-lock problem? Does it normally cost $400.00 to fix? Does the warranty cover it? How many times have we been told " that is normal for this car" and accepted it? G.M has completely pulled the wool over our eyes on so many of these problems that we have no one but ourselves to blame for the shoddy treatment they give us. We really do need to demand more from the dealers.
My 2 cents
I really would even doubt that it was actually loose except they went so far as to say it was sparking. Maybe it was that way from day one, who knows? Maybe that caught a problem that would have stranded the TB 6 months from now.
I read in the manual that came with the car about pass-lock system that if you try to start the car and it won't crank, you may need to wait 10 minutes before you try it again. It said something about also disabling your fuel pump at the same time.
I do know when I disconnected the battery and reconnected, there were a lot of noises once I turned the key on for the first time, about 15-20 seconds worth of noise, like things are resetting. It usually didn't start right after that. After a number of attempts there was usually one longer, louder noise and then I knew the TB would start. This noise is much louder than the fuel pump buzzing.
I'm just posting here so that if someone has a similar problem stuck on the road, they may consider resetting their computer.
I personally avoid places like Sam's Club for tires for two reasons:
1) They usually don't have the specialized equipment (i.e. the Hunter machine) needed to completely balance modern tires on vehicles with stiff chassis (like my Aurora's GM G platform)
2) The tires they usually get are lower-spec than what the tire shops get (or so the story goes - and I've heard enough stories like your friend's which make me think there's some truth to this).
If you're looking for a particular tire, I'd suggest researching at Tire Rack, and finding out who their authorized installers are locally. Then, call them up and get pricing on your own - 9 times out of 10 they end up beating the Tire Rack price (including shipping). Make sure you find a shop with the Hunter machine, if you need it, and find out how much $$$ it is to RFB and match your tires.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
tidester, host
They are very bright. I made sure to point the down somewhat so I don't blind oncoming traffic.
They pickup road signs and reflectors atleast twice as far away as the headlights do. It took me about 8 hours to install using the prewired relay and connections. I placed the switch in the factory location, took half of the dash & the box that the headlight switch is located apart and ran all of the wires like a factory job. I made my own "L" brackets and bolted them to the bumper frame under the light. I cut the driving light grill out using a sheetrock knife. I placed the relay in front of the battery and ran the wires using the black corrugated wire loom. I bought grommets at NAPA to run the wires through what I think is the factory wiring hole. I have pictures but no access to post them.
Anybody have any suggestions or a similar problem?
Jeff
Anybody have any suggestions or a similar problem?