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Comments
Believe you me, I completely understand where you are coming from (had to go that route with my 2004 GTO, which GM eventually ended up replacing after 35 days in the shop in 2 1/2 months of ownership). Of course, it took 54 days for GM to process the paperwork to get my new car (dealership had the replacment car dealer-traded within 6 days)... *sigh*
If you've had lots of other problems with your vehicle, I'd push for a replacement. Make sure you look into the lemon laws for your state before you even mention those two words to the dealership...
--Robert
I will get them to fix it next time I bring it in for service.
Thanks all!
Will the factory warranty cover things like clunks from the suspension (if it is a bad shock or strut), and will it cover warped brake rotors? My brake pedal has been pulsing under my foot since the first year I had the car.
I looked in my manual, and I don't see exclusions for rotors or suspension parts.
Thanks again,
Spiff72
I had the same problem a few months ago. The switch was not communicating with the 4x4 module.
They had to replace the module and some other parts. They told me if it was out of warranty, it would have cost over $400.
the cheapest price I found is
http://www.gmoutlet.com/quote/emailserver/majorguard/05mg3.htm
Mind if I ask what the pads cost you? And why did they only replace 3 of the rotors? Was one of them still good?? And finally, how old was the TB when they did it (and mileage)?
Thanks in advance. I am preparing my case for when I bring it in and they tell me nothing is wrong :-) Or that rotors are NOT covered because they are a wear/tear part.
This is my first time posting here. I went on a search to try to find some help with some problems I am having with my Trailblazer EXT LT.
I bought it 6 months ago. I traded in my 02'
Trailblazer LT for this one because I wanted the room. My LT only had one issue and that was a transmission mount fell off shortly after I bought it. I bought it in 2002. This EXT LT has been nothing but problems for me. First it was the rear air conditioning/heating wasn't working. Then I had problems with the rear hatch wiper and one power seat wouldn't move. The last thing I had it to the dealership for was a sound that would only happen occasionally. It was a creaking sound that came from the front end. It would happen when I would come to a stop. When I told the service department about it they looked at me as if I was some paranoid blond. They kept it for 3 days and said that they could only duplicate the noise once and that I needed to bring it back when the noise was happening more often. SO that little issue is still going on. This last one started yesterday. When I put it in drive or reverse, or just sit with it running in park, or I am driving and come to a stop, my TB will vibrate severly. So much so that my steering wheel and front end is effected. Does anyone know what this could be?
Any suggestions would help. When I called my dealership and spoke to the service department I was told that they sure hoped it made the noise when I brought it in. They were very sarcastic with me and I don't think they are taking me seriously any more. Now that I read how many troubles 02' TB's can have, I know I am not a paranoid blond!
Thanks,
Corrina
Steve, Host
Good luck
That's more expensive that I would have thought it would be for just pads and labor. I made an appointment for the brakes and a bunch of other stuff - I might just say forget the rotors - I can probably do it myself cheaper. I just thought the free rotors would save me money. I just figure that the dealer will give me a hard time too and say that the rotors are wear parts. I guess it depends on the dealer.
If you don't mind, about how much did they charge for just the parts (pads)?
Thanks,
Jeff
This might seem like a stupid question but if anyone knows the answer please respond.
Next week I am having aftermarket foglights installed on my 2002 LS. I decided that the best area to mount them without having to cut holes would be one on each side of the license plate where the air dam is. I noticed that on each side where I want to mount them there is a circular path looking thing that is about the size of a dime. I am thinking that they are plastic rivets or something holding the plastic bumper to the metal part but I am not sure, I was affraid those were air bag sensors or something. Does anyone know what these are or where the air bag sensors are located for this truck? I dont want to install the lights there and have the heat cause issues. Any ideas would be appreciated.
happy Friday!
----------------------------
* plate here *
* *
------**************--------
L1 | | L2
-------------------------------
L1 and L2 are the areas where the lights are going to go and where I see those black circular rivets.
Sorry taht I cant word it better but maybe someone knows what I am talking about. I see that when this gets posted the diagram gets messed up, but you get the idea.
Thanks!
I know the pads are cheaper at various parts stores, but brakes are one of many car repairs I don't do myself.
I think the reason the labor was a little high is the time it took to do the brakes twice. The first time they resurfaced the rotors and replaced the pads. the brakes still pulsed. They then replaced the rotors.
I think free rotors more than outweighed the higher price pads.
Just for grins I called a local dealer to get pricing for pad and rotors (front and rear).
They offer 2 brands - GM and Durastop. If the GM rotors are the OEM, they are not worth it based on the life I got from mine. I still think I might see if they can be turned down and just get new pads. I am pretty sure they would warp again, though.
GM:
Rotors
Front: $153 (each)
Rear: $137 (each)
Pads
Front: $117 (set)
Rear: $131 (set)
Durastop:
Rotors
Front: $58 (each)
Rear: $60 (each)
Pads
Front: $70 (set)
Rear: $74 (set)
It ended up that the transmission mount had
fallen off. They replaced it and good as new.
Corrina
02 TB, LT. One of the dash lights burnt out at the top over the speed-o. Started to take the dash apart from the bottom. Wow, it's not like old times just removing the lower panel reaching up and unscrewing the socket. Any one have to do this yet? And if so how far do you have to remove to get to these blasted things. The bulb is under 2 bucks and it appears that the labor could be hundreds! I also tried going in from the side panel and no luck there.
thanks
poles
Then entire grill assy. comes out as one piece. By that I mean the upper and lower grille, as well as the body-colored or chrome cross bar that bisects the headlights. The whole piece is held in by plastic clips that pop out relatively easily with gentle pulling. Start at the top (with the hood up) and work your way around.
Once the grille's out, the bowtie has two nuts holding it on from the back. Good luck
Under the advice from a friend of the family who owns his own repair shop, I took my TB to a different dealership. They not only honored my warranty that had expired by only a few miles, but fixed me up in a Tahoe for the duration my TB is in the shop. I will be calling Chevrolet to file a complaint against the dealership I bought my TB from and to tell Chevy what a wonderful place the shop that is working on my TB is. I still have no idea what the vibrating is but when I dropped the TB off the shop informed me that my 4X4 lights on the dash weren't working
and they have now replaced the modal. That would have cost me nearly $400. I will update
when I find out what the vibrating is.
Thanks
Corrina
Steve, Host
When you move the wheel, the noise changes and the noise goes away once it warms up. Should I bring it in to the dealer to have it liooked at? Anyone else have these noises.
Thanks for your imput!!
--Robert
Maybe I'm just remembering the 4X4 display on the instrument cluster on my old '92 Isuzu Amigo with locking hubs. It's tough to get old...