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Comments
Kidding - I actually like the Focus, besides the reliability.
-juice
-mike
Craig
And the STi is not civilized. It's wicked. Mwuhuhuhuhuhhaaaaa!
-juice
Bob
Honda had that problem with the Odyssey. When the Pilot came out, the test model had a "Property of Honda" label on it. It was not for sale, only a demo. Pretty interesting. But expensive.
-juice
Craig
-mike
-juice
This may be the best anti theft device for the car - not to mention the nice increase in horsepower! With no mods you're looking at 260hp. With a catback exhaust I think you can get 285hp. Cobb Tuning also takes away the speed limiter, and includes reset tools for CEL, and other lights. Best thing is you can "uninstall" it and the computer is programmed back to factory.
As for voiding the warranty - there's plenty of talk here about that, and I'm not going to get into it. Modifications may void the warranty on the parts associated with the mod. If nothing else, for those of you nearing the end of your warranty (either mileage or years), you have nothing to lose.
My car is completely stock - with 12k on it - but I figure when I get closer to 50-60k, I'll start doing some mods like these. YMMV
btw - Subaru should come out with an option like this at least for a security system - plug something in to your car and set it on "security" mode, so the engine won't start, etc. Could even be done with the key fob, but then people can steal the transmission signal, so that's not always safe. I'd pay a few hundred $$ extra for a feature like that!
If you want a simple anti-theft device, you can locate the wires that go to the fuel pump fuse and starter cutoff switch (on the clutch pedal of MT cars). Put a switch inline with these wires (one DPST switch would handle both) and you got your own simple anti-theft device. You just need to hide the switch somewhere.
The starter cutoff would deter most thieves. For determined people who pop-start the car, the fuel cutoff will stall the engine after a few seconds (if it starts at all).
Craig
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Craig
Subaru's frameless windows are pretty good, especially in the last few years. You will get a muffled rattle when you slam the door with the window halfway down, but thats about the worst of it. Definitely give it a try before you buy, just to make sure you agree.
Craig
I have a new medical condition that shuts down circulation to my fingers almost completely. When this happens, they turn white and develop a very painful ache and throbbing. It's definitely a bummer.
I began wearing gloves in the fall and moved to thick mittens now that it's winter here in the mountains of Utah. This has helped a little, but I still have some pretty significant problems.
I recently bought an aftermarket steering wheel cover, kind of neoprene and rubber. I got the most sedate looking one I could find. I never knew what "racecar" fashion was out there! Anyway, I thought this might help keep some of the cold away from the hands, but it too has provided a marginal improvement at best.
Does anyone know about dealer-installed or aftermaket heated steering wheels (like Saab or Volvo probably have)? I'm thinking this might be a pretty good solution to my problem, but I'm not willing to trade cars just to get it.
Thanks for the help.
BTW, what is the deal with the Mazda 6? I did not hear anything about them? Is there a couple of areas on the car that are exposed to the elements?
Thanks for your response
Thanks for your response
I'm into the 11th month/10k with my WRX wagon and haven't gotten any nits since purchase.
-Dave
p/s I've a '99 OBS that has been problem free since purchase. My '98 OB (deceased) had some minor issues, but was solid after that and until I crashed it.
Here's a pic of the inside of my Outback door just to give you an idea:
http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/window/images/img_06_01.jpg
By the way, I have been following the Mazda 6 rust issue. It's a real shame. However, the WRX is a much beter sports car than the 6, and is a blast to drive (as you found out I'm sure).
Craig
Michael
let it sit a few minutes, and then hose off. Afterwards, start up the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes or so, just to get stuff drying out. It usually looks pretty clean afterwards, and takes zero scrubbing. Simple Green has a nice smell too.
Good luck with the purchase. You should be able to get the WRX at or near invoice (sometimes even below), so make sure your dealer works with you on price.
Craig
I don't use any plastic conditioner.
Craig
My car will be driven year round in Florida. If anybody has ever been there they can relate. The temperature reaches well into the 90's very often. I would imagin using a higher viscosity oil.
Does it matter what oil is used since the car has a turbo?
I changed the transmission gear oil to Mobil 1 75w-90 at about 3000 miles, thinking it would be an improvement. It was great in cold weather and the shifter feel was very light. However, the 1-2 shift got a bit notchy and I read about problems with Mobil 1 on another Subaru forum. Apparently, the Subaru synchros need a little friction and Mobil 1 is too slick. So, I switched back to regular gear oil. It's not as nice in cold weather, but the 1-2 shift is better. Take it from me, just leave the stock gear oil alone!
If you want to improve shifter feel, you can spend $35 on Kartboy bushings. They are made from a harder material than the stock bushings, and improve feel significantly. Not too hard to install either. For that matter, the STi short shifter is a nice upgrade too (it was already installed on my car as an option from the port).
Craig
I'm not trading in, and I am financing and I'm in the northwest.
If someone else has bought recently and didn't trade in, I'd like to know what they were able to work out.
In both cases you should get the entire rebate subtracted from the price.
-juice
I'm thinking of countering with the CarsDirect price, which is 100 over invoice minus the cash.
I've also got a line on a fleet company who worked a deal on a '04 loaded Sienna for 300 over invoice. back when they were fresh out.
-juice
I've never been a "tuner" but I am interested in doing some things to this car to make it better looking and faster. I can handle the exterior stuff but since I'm newer to the aftermarket performance arena, what easy, inexpensive things can I do to my car to make it faster. I want the low hanging fruit first. The stuff that gives most bang for the buck. Perhaps later I'll consider some of the more expensive upgrades.
One last question. I've been obeying the 1000 mile break in period according to the manual. I'm at 650 right now. Have others done the same? I'm eager to drive this car hard but I'm afraid of ruining something now and regretting it for years.
Thanks for any advice.
PS I'm 30 yrs old so keep the tuner lingual basic for me or at least define any acronyms so I can catch on. Thanks again.
IMO, you should get used to driving the car first. Once it's broken in and you're used to controlling the turbo, it will feel faster.
Putting on a bigger rear swaybar, 17" wheels and better tires will make the car handle much better.
Check out this site for some good WRX tuning info:
http://www.spdusa.com/ More good info here:
http://www.cobbtuning.com
I believe in break-in according to the owner's manual. Others believe to drive it hard from day one.
-Dennis