Base Model Pickups - buying, owning, accessorizing

tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
edited April 2014 in Chevrolet
pickups (aka "strippers"), here is a topic for discussing them.
I own a 2000 Silverado long bed,reg. cab, 2wd. The only options are auto trans, a/c, cruise, power door locks(makes after market keyless entry easier.)
I bought the stripper for several reasons:
1) First new vehicle ever owned - if it turned out
to be a lemon, at least I didn't have so much
2) Read a car review that suggested buying a base
model since it had all of the technological
features of the upscale models (4 wheel disc
brakes, ABS, fancy electronics, etc.) without
the big price tag for power windows - mirrors
leather seats, etc.
3) I have owned two old 70s era Chevy 3/4 ton
pickups (350 and 454) and found that they
served the purpose of heavy hauling but were
only 8-10 mpg on gas. I drove some newer V6s
at work and found that they had a lot of pep,
and seemed to haul loads O.K. Since I kept the
old rat motor pickup, the new truck would be my
daily commuter (which is the way most pickups
are used.)
4) Stayed with the 4.3L V6 because I didn't like
what I was reading about the new vortec 4.8
and 5.3 V8 problems (pings, etc.) and thought
that the 4.3 was a proven engine.
My experience so far (about 10K miles since 11/99):

1) Reliability: Had two days in a row where the truck idled extremely rough on start up - dealer indicated clogged fuel injector - replaced one injector, cleaned all other injectors, added Techron cleaner. The truck has run fine since then. In fact, I would say it is now the smoothest running truck I have ever driven. I add a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner to the tank every 3 months when the oil is changed, just for extra insurance. Also, I use only Chrevron gas (with Techron) on the recommendation of service advisor.
2) Gas mileage: Currently averaging 21 city/27
highway. Worst was 18 city - drive the highway only infrequently. I drive very conservatively.
I anticipate red lights ahead and slow down, don't burn rubber on take offs, use cruise on the way to work at 5:30 am when traffic is light - can cruise at 40-45 MPH for several miles before getting a red light.
3)Ride comfort: OK for a pickup, but added some mods to improve it. I'll post about those later.
But enough about my truck - let's hear about yours - or the one you want to buy.


  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204

    Owned new '80 GMC Sierra long bed Heavy Half loaded w/350-4V, 3:08 auto w/lockout.

    Vehicle choked by emissions (tubing, air pump...) best mileage was 11 mpg. Added
    dual catylytic exhausts, doug thorley headers, 650 CFM Carter, shift kit, flipped
    air cleaner cover for 360 deg air intake, added GOODYEAR EAGLE GT P275-R60
    rubber. Weakest link was tranny. Severe failures, rebuilt and modified by B & M
    tranny people. Truck turned 89 @ 15 sec at Irwindale raceway in '83. was smoked by
    '83 Ford F150 long bed with 302-2V.

    Bought new '83 Ford F150, long bed, dual batteries, 302-2V, 3:55 axel with auto overdrive.

    Added: 302-4V motor from wrecked '85 Mustang GT, headers with dual glaspacks (Loud),
    Chrome wheels and BFG P275-60R15's, brother welded dual exhaust with tips just before
    rear tires, each side. Beat Pop's '74 Cheyenne long bed with 350-4V bothtrucks loaded
    with 22 sheets drywall up Guadalupe canyon parkway (Steve McQueens mustang run) in
    San Francisco in mid '80s. Vehicle went 177,000 trouble free except for cracked carb plate.
    Sold to Construction worker who still had it as of '93

    re: 4.3 owned several vehicles with this engine (3/4 350). Neighbor has loaded Silverado
    ext cab with 200 hp 4.3. Very responsive. This may be last year for 4.3. GM going to
    4.2 inline. Youngest son has '99 S10 Xtreme 4.3 with paxton, headers, K & N, chip...does not
    race or drive hard, just wanted a very responsive mini in case occasion arises to use power.
    His old '94 S10 4.3 went 200,000 before he sold it trouble free.

    Am looking for new mini for long commute. Desire a responsive engine, 4 banger ok.

    So far the Dakota had most comfortable seats. Am only 5'9 and can fit in very cramped
    quarters. Still looking. I believe it is cheaper to add mods to base truck than to purchase
    loaded vehicle...

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    done to my stripper.
    CAUTION: Long post ahead.
    You may ask "Why add more expense to a base truck when low cost was the reason for buying it."
    My answer: I do not care for most of the factory accessories that the upscale models offer. I would rather add those thing I like.
    Comfort list:
    BFG Velvet ride shackels: These replacements for your rear leaf spring shackels have rubber bushings and an flexible "joint" which reduces the bounce in the ride and jittery effect - especially when riding on washboard or rough surfaces. They cost about $150. Probably the best improvement you can make to your ride. Also, they seem to improve rear traction and you can inadvertently burn rubber slightly until you learn to lighten accelerator pressure to compensate for the improved tire grip. Downside - they are a "one size fits all" size, and are much bigger than the original shackels - so they just barely fit in the brackets - you have to shave a bolt head a little to make them fit the new Silverado/Sierra.
    Edelbrock IAS shocks: Improve the handling on curves dramatically, but don't really add much to ride comfort. I got them for about $55 each from CarParts with a 33% off coupon. I would say they are worth the approximately $200, and I think the IAS/velvets combo works well together. I did just discover one of the IAS leaking in the rear - I bought another shock directly from Edlebrock(Car Parts wouldn't get involved) and they promptly credited my charge card when they got my defective shock. I'm impressed with Edelbrock customer service, but CarParts could improve in this area.
    Convenience list:
    Aftermarket remote keyless entry: Had a local store install the Viper brand with ignition disable for about $129 (I think.) It works OK, but I don't care for the ergonomics of the remote key fob - like the stock GM one better - would probably have the dealer install the GM style next time, unless they were way too pricey. (The truck salesman advised that I go to the aftermarket place, so maybe it is too costly.)
    EGR bug deflector: about $50 from a local supplier. Works OK - no complaints, but don't expect any of these deflectors to keep the bugs off your windshield, only off the front of your hood. These new style deflectors are too low to help your windshield. At least this one doesn't cause the windshield molding to flap at high speeds. Others in this forum recommend Lund Interceptor as the best choice - I don't know about them.
    WeatherShield WeatherFlectors vent visors:
    A high quality product - go in easy with no tape - don't mess up your truck's finish. Downside - relatively narrow (about 2") so they don't really shade of "deflect" a whole lot. About $60 and worth it, I would say.
    Lund Bug Screen: Real nice black plastic type inserts for the front of your grille. Looks good -cool "black out" effect. Installs quickly and easily with no tools. I bought this because I had a lot of bugs and very small pebbles stuck in the radiator core after a highway trip. This seems to do the job, and also means you don't have to do the tedious detail work of cleaning out the eggcrate holes in the stock grill when you wash the truck. A good investment. Only downside might be increased engine temperature, but I keep an eye on the temp gauge - so far, no increase in temperature. Cost is around $50 - worth it.
    VentShade step shields: I got these to cover the painted step area since I was getting some small nicks in this area. Practical and easily installed. Good gray color match. Good $12 investment.
    Wide angle rear view mirror: I got a wide angle rear view mirror from J C Whitney (about $30) because the stock mirror is just too small for such a big truck. Makes a huge difference in rear vision. Just wish you could get an aftermarket electrochromic wide angle rear view mirror. I put a cheap $10 piece of dark limo tint removable film on the back window, so this helps lessen the glare from the car headlights behind me, and helps block out the desert sun.
    Berlin Hinged Tonneau Cover: Cost about $259 and was fairly easy to install. This is a black vinyl snap type soft tonneau cover, but the side rails are hinged about 18" from the front, and has gas struts clamped to the rear. You can open the whole cover at once (about 30 degrees), so you don't have to unsnap the thing to get at your gear. There is no latching hardware at the rear - just the tension of the gas strut holds it down. I drove it a highway speeds and it stays in place well. Downside: I wish it opened more then 30 degrees, the rear tends to rack a bit when you lower it - depending on how evenly you lower your left and right hands. I would install bed rail caps first next time because the rail clamps distort the thin Silverado rail sheet mail.
    Steel Horse Contractor's Arm Rest: about $100 (you can get it cheaper). You need to get something because the rado stripper has no factory armrest. This is a big monster - bigger than the factory armrest - and is more comfortable than the factory armrest. I put a thick towel over the top since I don't like to rest my arm on vinyl. Stores a lot of stuff. I would shop price, but would buy it again.
    What's next:
    I'm considering: BedRug bedliner, flares and mudflaps, side molding, factory style seat covers.
    Remove the factory decals?
    I like my truck.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    old beasts alive like I did for decades, but I got tired of the "challenges" of repairs and had enough money to pay cash for a stripper - so I joined the "mega depreciation this way" line.
    I like the Dakota idea - seems like the ideal size SUV - ads on tv make it sound great, but will they sell you a stripper? I have heard Chrysler get high marks for style but low marks for reliability - does this concern you? I'm mostly a GM man(though I also drove Honda civics for 18 years), so I am looking at the stripper Yukon and Suburban for future purchase. I am 6'2", so I'm not sure the Dakota would give me the leg room I want. Let me know how it goes.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    "flipped air cleaner cover for 360 deg air intake"

    Had to laugh when reading that one. Poor man's K&N. LOL!!
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    In early 80's and before, several after market mfgr's offered a low restriction air cleaner with
    chrome cover and wide exposed paper air filter, not smog legal though, had to have it
    completely covered with a breather tube from valve cover. But yes, it was a poor man's
    K & N. I have used K & N, however i change my oil at min. 5K, have heard of poor air
    filtration causing extreme wear and tear on motor. Cleaning a K & N is tricky, got to watch
    out you add enough spray lube, but be careful you don't over saturate. I may upgrade to
    AIR RAID intake system.


    My current C2500 5.7 is heavily modified. K & N, shift kit, JET chip, NOX bottle, Doug
    Thorley headers, dual catylitic exhaust (factory) with low restriction cat back exhaust, etc

    This is a very poor handling vehicle. Need to ugrade the tires. I use power to merge on
    freeway, pass slow moving 18 wheeler's, and tackle long steep grades with ease. Like
    infamous GRAPEVINE hill in So. Ca. That is a cake walk for my truck. I do not abuse
    my truck, in fact I perform very careful maintenance myself. There are 4 mechanics in our
    CUL-DE-SAC for assistance and Chevy dealer is 2 mi away along with 5-6 independant
    car garages in close proximity. My neighbors Siverado's, '00 ext cab with 4.3 and the other
    neighbor with 5.3. The other three neighbors have Chevy Astro Vans with 4.3. So far so good, very minor problems, mostly annoyances. I am GM fan deep down, but have had better luck
    with the FORDS....Have family members that own Toyotas and Dodge RAM's and Dakotas
    that are trouble free. It is a crap shoot buying a new vehicle, you never know if you may
    get LEMONAIDE, i mean without sugar. I've had Lemons, Oranges and Limes, oranges being the sweetest vehicles. I subscribe to the Technical bulletins and refer to the internet, it is
    unerving to say the least when you vehicle shows up on list.....

    Regards to all
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Nix the airaid in favor of the K&N FIPK Generation II. It comes with the K&N filter similar to the airaid AND replaces the stock intake tube with one that flows air more freely. Plus it's about $40 cheaper than the airaid.
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    AIR RAID very expensive, liked the chrome tube to injectors....Will check out the GEN II

    I just got this PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS catalog from Van Nuys, Ca has hundreds of
    custom and aftermarket mods, add-ons for SUBURBAN, TAHOE, BLAZER, CHEVY TRUCK,
    S10, YUKON, GMC, S15. On pg 115 is the K & N gen II- AWESOME!!


  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    and I read Durango - must have been a potato/potatoe thing - time for my nap.
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    Forgot to mention, drove a SOLAR YELLOW Dakota R/T 5.9 AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH-
    SHEER DELIGHT, lots of thrust, was pinned to seat, lots of tire smoke, salesman did not
    frown, was also in great delight. Very pricey truck with poor poor towing capacity due to
    suspension. I read of a Supercharged 4.7L Dakota that eats DAKOTA R/T 5.9s for breakfast...LOL not lampooning the Dodges, but I was greatly amused. Watch out for
    upcoming new OHC Hemis....sorry for horrible punctuation, I get confused with my Sony
    VAIO PCG-505Fs tiny 10.5 in screen sitting on my antique roll top oak desk....don't know when
    to hit RETURN key- LOL

    Off to see the playoffs
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    For me it was easy I've never cared for power this and power that. I looked at the LS and LT models they were nice but I wanted to spend that extra money elsewhere. First off I knew I was putting on a 6" lift kit with 35" tires so there were only 4 things that I had to have.
    #1- Had to have the 5.3L
    #2- Had to have 4.10 gears
    #3- Had to have A/C
    #4- Wanted the Metalic (got it)
    That was All I got with mine. So the fun began. And I have a feeling It will be going on for sometime. As of right now the Superlift 6" kit is on. That was installed (myself and a friend) on at 1208 miles. The 35" baja claws were put on at the same time.
    Next I Installed Bushwacker Fender flares. This was a must, my paint was getting sand blasted because of the 13.5" wide tires.
    Just last week I had the windows deep tinted. The rear was 5%(limo) the doors (4 ext-cab) 15%.
    Today I took off all the cheesy factory decales. It looks clean..That's where I am now at 1987 miles..I have a lot more planed for the future but that is one reason I bought the base model. To customize, and not to spend money on what GM thinks I need. That includes the LS and the LT models. To each his own!

  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    I failed to realize this topic was for 1998 and under..

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Where does it say that?
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    Then I'm not sorry..LOL

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    Although, it looks like us stripper owners are in the distinct minority, judging by the dearth of posts here.
    Quad: How did you remove the decals? I want to do it on my truck, but it has been baking in the Arizona sun for about 14 months. Do you think that there will be a shadow outline if I remove them now?
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    A hair drier- with your fingernail start it. Keep the hair drier on it only until you can peel it back..It should come right off..If it doesn't keep the heat on it. Took me 20 minutes for all of them. I did 1 set at a time. First the stupid 1500botie on the doors. Then the CHEVEROLET on the tailgate..For now I'm keeping the 4x4 on the sides, until I can find something better looking. Then use something to strip off the left over glue. WD-40 works well. Just wash it off after. Polish and wax too.

    Let me know how it goes......

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    I'll give it a try an let you know.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    in Tucson this afternoon, so I took off the decals. It's still very muddy in my yard (no concrete drive - in the process of remodeling), so I just washed off the decal areas, used a fingernail - then dull razor blade to start the decals coming off. Got it done in about 20 minutes. I had quite an outline at the edges of the decals because of the several coats of built up wax I put on in the past year. I'll use some cleaner/wax to see if that removes the rest of the outline when it dries up outside a little more - but it already looks better - like one of those upscale LS or LTs.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    To remove wax buildup, wash the area with Dawn dishwashing detergent mixed with water. The dawn will strip all the wax without being abrasive like a cleaner or rubbing compound. Be sure to wax the area after as the dawn will take whatever wax you have on completely off.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    the removal of the decals. It took more elbow grease than WD40 would have, but I think you are correct about the Dawn being less abrasive. I knew from the Zaino discussions that Dawn was the official Edmunds rado owners cleaner of choice. Actually, I used some Meguiar's body scrub to get the remaining glue and wax build up off. I'll put some wax on it this afternoon, then give the whole truck a wash/wax when the weather breaks.
    This desert weather is getting very cold in the winter(down in the 20s at night and ice on the windows every morning), and I'm thinking of retiring to Hawaii someday. Is is possible to live there without being wealthy? Could a stripper owner survive there?
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    to get some ideas on more mods to my stripper and checked out the new 2500 HB pickups while I was there. Those things look huge when parked next to a base model - but they remind me of a 3/4 ton Dodge full size with the big hood. I noticed that they weren't cheap either. The frames and underbody really make them look like a true heavy duty truck.
    I'm thinking about getting the stock matte black flares but they are a $180 option new and I have not yet found them so cheap elsewhere. The stock side molding looks O.K. but I don't like the fact that it doesn't protect the rear quarter panels behind the rear wheels, like the older Silverados. I am considering getting aftermarket body color moldings to cover the whole side instead. The black moldings are a bit much, but if I go with black flares, then I guess it would look normal.
    Have any of you stripper guys considered body side moldings yet? I already had one errant shopping hit the side of my rado once, so I am a little concerned about it.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    As an example of our high cost of living, gas prices just dropped $.04 a gallon to:

    87 $1.95

    89 $2.05

    91 $2.15

    Don't need to tell you how much it costs to fill my rado with 91 and the Denali with 87. First time I filled Denali with 34 gallon tank, was just over $65. Man o man.

    Another area we get whacked on is mods. I bought this set of Smittybuilt nerfs that sold for $325 new for $175 2nd day air...$122.

    Median cost of a single family dwelling, 1400 sq ft under the roof, 1900 sq ft with garage on a 6000 sq ft lot is $350,000. Sometimes I have to ask myself why I'm living here. LOL!! Can't beat the weather though. Todays low 69 high 81 clear skies and 15mph NE winds humidity 86%.

    Actually, I see quite a few stripper trucks. In fact yesterday I saw a 2500 HD 2001 model on the freeway in indigo blue.

    Regarding the flares, I installed the ones labeled rubber mudflaps. Cost something like $31.90 per set of two. Check them out. Fits well and installs similar to the husky flaps but without drilling.

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    Sounds like your territory is out of my league, but I do like the weather, except for the humidity. So where do the worker bees live on the islands?
    My Chevron 87 gas is about $1.53 in Tucson, so you are about 25% over Tucson prices, which is probably about right for everything. Maybe I could park my stripper on the beach, pitch a tent, and eat poi and coconuts. It could happen.
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    Post #18,
    I'm glad to see that came off that easy.

    BTW you guys are killing me, here in Syracuse NY it had not been above 35 degrees in over 40 days!! I'd trade places with you guys in a New York minute, and that's faster than most. You talk about Hawaii? I'd settle for Arizona.

    P.S. You guys have any pictures? I'd like to see some.

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    Once I get all of the mods in place, I'll probably get one and post the pix.
    Dean, pix of your truck before you dump it?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I could post some. Unfortunately my truck is in the shop for the umpteenth time. Replacing door latch and weather stripping. Intermediate steering shaft, etc.

    Most of the workers rent. Needless to say there is a huge rental market. As affordable housing becomes available....they attempt to qualify.

    Doesn't those one hour photo or those photocopy places scan your pics onto a floppy for a minimal charge? Might be a cheaper solution to posting pics. Everyone seems to be using to post pics as they provide free webspace.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I added both the body side mouldings and fender flares to my 99 base model. And I removed all the decals.

    I bought the factory parts when I bought the truck. The installation was relatively straightforward.

    For the body side mouldings, I first put masking tape on the body just above where the mouldings would go. After careful measuring and eyeballing by 3 people, we had the tape lined up properly. Then it is a simple matter of placing the moulding up against the tape and sticking them in place with the pre-applied adhesive.

    Mike L
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    probably do that if the weather clears up enough for me to wash/wax the stripper.
    Mike - Did you buy the factory matte black flares, or did you get the gloss black "accessory" flares, and how much did the flares and the side molding cost?
    How do you feel about the rear quarter panels not being protected with molding? With my luck, that would be the next target for a stray shopping cart.
    Did you mesure up from the bottom of the rocker panel, based on the trucks on the dealer lot? I'm still wondering how aftermarket body color molding would look (my truck is white) - say 1 1/2" or so.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I got the matte black flares. I put them on a Charcoal Grey truck and they look great, especially with the black mouldings.

    The flares were supposed to be $180 a pair, but my salesman screwed up and sold them to me $180 for the set.

    The mouldings are cheap by comparison, they are about $100 for the whole set. And well worth it. I have no door dings in my truck after 2 years and 30,000 miles.

    When my dad sold his 98 and bought a 99 he was really concerned about the lack of protection on the rear of the bed. He wanted to go and buy pieces to fit. But, when we looked at the trucks, the moulding on the 98 matches the rubber strip on the bumper, and the line goes around the truck. The 99 and newer trucks don't have any such detail on the bumper. Well, he got used to not having that piece of trim. He hasn't gotten a scratch back there either. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

    Actually, I measured from the body line down. There is a crease in the body, and the mouldings mount just below that. So I measured from the sharp bend at the top of the crease down - hmmmmm, I forget - 3"??. Whatever looks good to you. Just make it the same all over.

    Mike L
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    prices - though I have a feeling that I won't get the prices you did. I think I'll order a BedRug bedliner and ProCap rail caps to go under by Berlin tonneau - should be an expensive weekend, but I always rationalize this by saying I only paid 16K for the stripper. I'll also call the dealer body shop to see how much they want to install the body side molding - I'll have them do it if they aren't too outrageous, since that is something you only get one shot at doing right. I can probably do it myself, but I if didn't go right I couldn't think of a bigger advertisement for my incompetence - it's not like something you can hide under the hood.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    flares and body side molding at the local Chevy dealer?
    Here is the list, and it gets worse:
    Rear flare: $225 EACH
    Front flare: $195.77 EACH Total 4 flares: $841.54
    Total body side moldings: $363.16
    The salesman says he sells the body side molding only for collision repair, but he sells a lot of flares. Who are the poeple who would pay $900 for flares (including tax)instead of the $180 new vehicle option(installed, of course.)?
    It would make more sense to buy a new truck.
    Any suggestions? Is there any GM dealer who actually wants to sell parts to the public?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Nothing to lose....try here:

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    to check out GM parts dealers, and sent a RFQ to gmpartsdirect - response was they are too backed up to respond now.
    I do have one quote of about $88 on the full set of side molding - which I think is excellent(but they are out of the RH door piece - maybe I can run with a partial set to make my stripper more distinct?) Black flare set is down to about $662, but I don't know if they are worth about $300 more than a Xenon set. Curiously, the painted white flares are less - about $583 - but GM has no stock available - supplier will not give date available - sounds like a long wait. I would prefer the stock flares because they seem to install in the factory fender hole locations with the factory plastic push pins that hold on the wheel well liners - don't really want to drill any more holes in the fender - though I probably will have to when I put on mudflaps.
    I don't know what my local Chevy dealer is thinking - maybe they are selling electric power to California and don't need to sell parts. It's a scary thought if I run out of warranty before I sell the truck - might have to buy the extended warranty at the 35th month - used up about 14 months so far.
    Stay tuned.
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    Joe if you would fill out your profile (e-mail address) I'd send you a picture of the Bushwacker's that I installed..$230.00 and they also mount to the existing holes. I left them black but they can be painted to match....

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    email - [email protected]. I have been looking at the Bushwacker OE style - since I want something that looks like the factory set and won't interfere with the factory body side moldings I plan to put on. The Bushwacker OE and other Bushwacker style on their website make it look like you need to install a lot of self tapping screws. My truck is white, so I would probably leave them black also.
    Do the Bushwackers look stock - width, height, profile, etc.? Do they use adhesive strips to attach, or screws, or both? Is there a rubber gasket where the meet the outside of the fender, or is it plastic directly against the painted fender finish? If I can't get the stock look, I may have to buy the factory white style for about $600(so far) - that would look cool too (LTish) - it the GM supplier ever can deliver them to the dealers. I hope I don't get whacked in the side at a parking lot before I get the sides protected.
    Looking forward to your email - can't do much outside today - cold (50ish), rainy, and snow capped Catalina Mts. in the distance - just surf net and spend money. Later - Joe
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    I just thought of a couple of mods I did to the base Silverado bench seat that improved ride comfort for me a lot. This first mod is a fairly hard foam lumbar support I got for the seat at Pep Boys - it has a lot of bumps on it and fits in the small of your back in a contour shape. It is better for me than the softer foam lumbar supports which lose their shape quickly and really don't do much for me. The second mod is a headrest also obtained from Pep Boys which attaches to the factory headrest. Is is also a harder foam which keeps its shape well. I had to add a couple of small velcro straps applied vertically which attached it more firmly. This headrest fills the space between the back of your head and the top of your shoulders. It really supports your head much better than the stock headrest. I got this idea because I had Recaro seats in my CRX which had adjustable headrests which could be titled forward to support your neck and head. These two mods allow me to sit in a more upright position (better posture and vision out the windshield, since I am 6'2") and I don't get as fatigued on a long drive. I have towels covering the headrest and seat and attached with pins - plan to get custom factory style covers in the future to make things neater appearing. I've got a bad back so a good seat is something I appreciate a lot. The foam pcs. are about $10 each and money well spent - night and day difference in seat comfort.
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    Sorry for the delay, I'll send some pictures over now..

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I too have a stripper.......4.8 4x4 ext. cab........ here's my problems so far....

    1. Passenger seat won't go all the way back.....doesn't even have a handle.?????

    2. No arm rest.....I put a 6 pack cooler there with a towel on top.......

    Otherwise, I like the base model over the LS model I had.

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    seat does not have a handle, because the passenger seat works just like the driver's seat -it has a handle also. Tje middle seat does not move at all - I have never had occasion to move it.
    Regarding the test drives you have been referring to on another site, was the V6 you test drove with the ticking noise a 4wd or 2 wd?
    Go for the Steel Horse contractor's console.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    You don't have to drill holes to mount mudflaps. I put holes in the mudflaps to match the ones in the fender flares/fenders and used nuts/bolts where I could access the back for the nut, and longer barbed retainers where the back was not accessible.

    The passenger does not have an adjustable back angle on the base model. That is my wife's biggest complaint with the base model. 2nd complaint is the center section that has no storage. And that is it, no more complaints!

    The side mouldings were pretty easy to install. Mark with tape as mentioned earlier. You can do that part over and over until you feel good about it. Wipe the area down with alcohol to clean it. Hold the moulding up against the tape and remove the liner tape from the double sticky stuff and press. Viola!!

    You can see pictures of my truck at:

    The 99 is the base model truck. The 2500 is an LS and I really like the center folding seat and the CD player for long trips. After I added up all LS items (Aluminum wheels, flares, side mouldings, foglights, carpet, AC, Power Door Locks) I added to the base truck, it wasn't much money to get the LS seats. And then I found out I enjoy the power windows, very easy to open the passenger side window whil driving. I don't regret the base model, a very nice 4wd truck w/v8 power for $20,500. With 2500, I got a GM Supplier discount and got the 3/4 ton 4x4 LS for $24K. I like them both.

    Mike L

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    The V6 was a 2wd...... you may be right about the cause of the ticking sound: might from a different source....

    Regarding my seat.....I'm talking about the passenger side seat (not the middle section). The passenger seat has only one handle on the side, unlike the driver's seat. The driver's seat will go back, the passenger seat will not go back at all. It will fold forward but not back. What you think?

  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Normal, same setup in my '99 Silverado. You might clear up that you are talking about the seatback, not the whole seat.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    investigate the passenger seat - even in this frigid 58 degree temperature.
    My passenger seat's seat back tilts back as far as the driver's seat, as well as tilts forward. Of couse, the entire seat moves back and forth as the driver's seat does. If you move the passenger seat as far as possible toward the dash, then the seat back will tilt back all the way back until it hits the rear window - you'd have to have very skinnny legs to use it that way - there's only about 2" left between the seat bottom and the dash.
    So, I either got the super premium stripper of Y2K, or you guys got short changed. (Or I am still not getting the problem with the seat.)
    I may have to get one of those digital camera thingies and learn how to use it - once the mods are done - so you guys can see what I mean.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    poca will let you. My truck would look like a little girl's truck next to yours. Now I know I can't post pix of mine until I get some more manly accessories.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    again for the tip on gmpartsdirect - They are coming in at about $480 for a set of black flares and $508 for the white flares, so I am moving in the right direction, but I need to get the very best price as a matter of stripper owner principle - may still have to go aftermarket, but the general is looking more appealing.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    and ordered these a couple of days ago. I hope to get them about the time the wet and cold weather should break here in the desert in about a week.
    Ordered ProCaps rail caps direct from the manufacturer in CA- local suppliers did not have the "no stake pocket hole" version and I wanted that so you can't see the stake pocket holes along the edge of the tonneau when it is closed. Also got the L shaped piece for the front rail - I noticed that the front bulkhead rail is about 1/16th inch lower than the side rails, so I want to fill up that area as well as protect the front rail.
    Ordered the BedRug from a guy off the net who works out of his house in Maine - sounds like a nice set up for his impending retirement.
    So far, most of my mod purchases have been on the net, almost by necessity. It seems that local suppliers either have little selection or high prices. Waiting for delivery is a downside, as is returns, but it is probably worth the hassle.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    installed on your truck? A local store is advertising about $120 installed and it sounds good. I think it would be great to crank up the stripper about 5-10 minutes before leaving the house to get the ice off the windows. Also, I can see turning it on in the summer time while walking to the truck in a hot parking lot in order to get the A/C going. I wonder if this would screw up the electronics, or if there are dangers I don't know about. Any thoughts?
  • quadcab4x4quadcab4x4 Member Posts: 44
    I had one installed on my wifes car this winter. They are the cats a$#. No problems at all, ran me $190.00. That includes remote door locks too. I priced one for mine and it was $250.00. The reason (more $$) I think was that you have to buy a bypass for the anti-theft that is built in..Anyway if you can get one for $120.00 that's a great deal..You'll love it!

    Thanks Joe, I would post them (pictures) here. Need to get better weather first so I can clean her up.

    As far as flares,$480.00 your kidding right? you can get O-E (Bushwacker) for under $250.00 I'm telling you. I got mine from "Tyres International"
    (I called) 1-800-321-0941 or you can go to Had my flares in 4 days.

    PS. I'm not in business with them. Just had a good buying experience. Thought I'd pass it along.

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    I wonder if the OE flares have the same look as the stock flares, and if they install as nicely as the extend-a-flares you have. I can't seem to find any Bushwackers in the stores around here to look at.
    Same story on weather in Tucson - still wet and cold, but should be getting up to about 70 soon - good time to finally wash/wax and install new mods on the truck.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    How did you get an adjustable passenger backrest in a base model? Looking at the available options, that seat is only available in an LS or LT, or a GMC base model, not a Chevy.

    So, do you have the folding center section also? Or did Chevy change the base model seating?

    Mike L
This discussion has been closed.