my truck is anything unusual. I did no mods to the seat. I have just the stock seat you see in the brochures - center seat is the ridiculous non folding type. Is your truck a Y2K model? Maybe they changed the base seat to add the folding seatback on the passenger seat in 2000. BTW - I know you told Ryan where you got the blue bowtie for your grille, but could you tell us again? I am thinking of getting a lighted aftermarket bowtie for the grille, and maybe painting the lens blue. Sittin pretty in Tucson. Should hit 70s tomorrow -good mod installation weather, but nothing arrived in the mail yet. Later Joe
for the 2000 Silverado before I brought the truck. On the back page under Interior Features, it reads under the "STD." column: "SEATING: 40/20/40 split bench seat with driver recliner" No mention of passenger recliner. Plus, the picture of the stock seat shows no recliner handle on the passenger side. I must have a true colletor's vehicle. Should I get on Ebay and start the auction now, or wait until it is a real classic when the next new body style comes out? Antiques Roadshow is coming to town - maybe I'll drive it down there - too bad I threw away the original wrapper. This truck could be as valuable as a misprinted stamp.
The bowtie is the stock one colored blue with blue plastic tape. Looks great from 3' or more, doesn't look bad up close.
It would be easy to paint with plastic model paint. 5 minutes, and the grill is out. Then you can pop the bowtie out and do with it what you want.
I got the idea from my dad (he's 78), his truck has a red bowtie and when I looked close, it was red plastic tape.
With tape, I change the color as often as I want. With paint I'm stuck with one color........but, since I haven't wanted to change the color, paint isn't such a bad idea.
Couldn't you just paint over the old color whenever the urge arose? After awhile, you may have to sand it a little, especially if using house paint and brush ;-)
Silverado site and ask Tim what color he is going to paint the yellow cab marker lights he is planning on installing on his 3/4 ton. No, that would be against the law - ICC light regulations. I hope they don't have ICC grille light regulations, but I think strippers are allowed to dress flashy ;-)
BTW - got the Bed Rug today - looks pretty sturdy and heavier duty than I thought. Velcro looks super heavy duty - like they will really do a number on the paint finish. Hope I never have to take it out. I'll wait until the ProCaps get here and do the job at one time. (BAK has ProCaps "on constraint", so to speak. I guess they don't have much demand for long bed rails, since most pickups sold are now short bed extended cabs. They were "making them as we speak" when I called them earlier today.)
GM Parts Direct just replied to my latest inquiry. It turns out that the aftermarket flares are sold in pairs, even though their website indicates that the "pack quantity" is 1 per part number. This makes the stock flare painted white about $240 for the set, and the black gloss flares $254 for the set - and add 14% S&H. I would prefer matte black flares since the purpose is to protect the fenders from dents/dings and the white flares will show the marks, but I don't like the shinny black color. I may have to go with the white ones. Where is Ryan when I need him - he was the only flare expert we had.
The first one was 93 Toyota Pickup Standard Options when bought: Cloth Seats, Carpeting, Day/Night Mirror, Cigarette Lighter, Rear Bumper, Metaliac Paint, cloth mats Options added: Bed Mat, Radio, Speakers, Antenna, Right Door Mirror, A/C, wheel covers Options never had worth mentioning: power steering, clock (clock came on radio) Bottom Line: Drove it a year and made a profit when I sold it, no problems in 13,500 miles
1994 Toyota T-100 STD Options when bought: Sliding-rear window, rear bumper Options added: radio, speakers, wheel covers, bed mat, tailgate bed liner, cigarette lighter, right-door mirror, A/C Options never had worth mentioning: cloth seats, carpeting, day/night mirror, clock (clock came on radio) Bottom line: had it slightly over five years, one problem (EGR valve) fixed under warranty, drove it 86,000 miles, did not lose money on this truck either
2000 Toyota Tundra Base This truck is much higher up the food chain than the previous two Options came with truck: Bedliner, A/C, Towing package, Tilt Steering, Variable Intermittent Wipers, Sliding-Rear window, cloth mats Options added after bought: wheel covers, CD/Cassette radio (replaced factory cassette), bigger tires, vinyl mats, fog lights Options do not have worth mentioning: none Bottom line: The truck now has 26,000 on it and I have had it over a year and a half. Very reliable so far.
owner, proving that even Toyota drivers can survive the sensory deprivation of the base models. Are you saying you owned a 1994 Toyota for 5 years and 86,000 miles and sold it for the same price you paid for it? This would qualify you for stripper Hall of Fame status.
Bed Rug look OK - it does puff out in some locations but it may lay flat all over once it spends some time in the installed state. You do see some of the zipper holding the sides/bulkhead sections to the floor. I added some camper shell tape to the lower rear corners where the tailgate meets the floor to seal off a 1/2" X 1" holes that were not covered by the Bed Rug. Looks like $307 well spent. I'll probably get some 2X8 pieces of redwood to fit in the factory recesses in the sidewalls to provide a stop for groceries, etc. Installed the BAK rail covers. Went OK but was a little hard to get the covers perfectly flat due to the sticky tape on the inside vertical surface - it stuck before the caps were in the best position. Clamping down the tonneau rails over them seemed to level things out. The reveal on the outside edge relative to the tonneau rail seems pretty uniform. BAK sent me the wrong size bulkhead rail protector. It is just an L shaped piece of material, but it was about 6" too short (maybe for a mini truck?). They are supposed to be sending me the correct size. I slid the incorrect one in place without removing the tape. I hope to pull it out and replace it with the correct one when it arrives. I'll probably not remove the tonneau rails again, since the bulkhead rail cap seems to fit snug without sticking it to the rail (I have a couple of lengths of camper shell tape on the bottom side of the tonneau cover bulkhead rail to compensate for the difference in the bulkhead/side rail height.) The bulkhead cap does not cover the whole rail, due to the L shape - you still see some of the painted surface on top of the rail, and below the inside edge of the rail. They think most people have a drop in rail liner that goes over the bulkhead rail, so I guess they don't spend much time engineering a custom fit cap. $109 for the set of 3 pcs. - purchased directly from BAK -I get the impression that they don't sell directly to owners one at a time much - mostly to dealers. They are located in North Hollywood, CA. I'm still debating flares - leaning toward black now, even if they are glossy, since I have so much black trim on the truck. (I did hear from Ryan, but did not get his preference.) I checked out the Chevy truck lot - looks like the 3/4 tons have mostly the glossy black flares. The other trucks that aren't black are some shade of gray - I don't think I would want that.) This must be what gals go through in choosing the right shade of lipstick. My outfit is getting more difficult to accessorize. We had a few days of warm weather, then it was freezing last night (snowed on Thursday!.) Got up to about 60 degrees yesterday, so I could work on the truck - got a sunburn. Now we are back down in the 30s. I have not been able to give the truck a good washing in about a month - raining or cloudy most every day, and rain predicted for this weekend - not Chamber of Commerce weather -should be 70 daytime/40 nightime. Later.
may have found one. The website does not have information on prices or list anywhere to buy one. Anybody want to guess how much this replacement seat will cost? I'll guess $200 - let's see if I am right. Stay tuned.
I'm guessing that what you are talking about would replace the existing center seat with a folding piece similar to the LS seat. Does it still function as a seat in the up position? Does the fabric come close to matching?
from a junkyard I doubt that it will cost $200 - more like $1000+, but I could be wrong. The seat seems to entirely replace the whole center seat - top and bottom - with one that looks like the factory folding seat. I don't want to get into trouble with copyrights and free advertising here - so email me at tucsonjw@netzero.net and I'll give you the website. I emailed the company for details, but no response yet. They were mentioned in Sport Truck magazine.
No word back from the company selling the fold down center seat for Silverado - how serious are they about selling them? Got an email asking for my location, but no word since. Still have not gotten a replacement front rail cap from BAK - then sent a minitruck size. Berlin tonneau cover rear strut clamps came off while driving. I added a locknut to the bolt - we'll see what happens.
You may want to check this guy out. He has all kinds of.... well like Sanford and son. He has the stock overhead console and a whole host of parts for sale both on ebay and his site.
Go to ebay and search for the item no. listed below as I can't post the link.
562492748
Unfortunately, there was another company selling the center fold down seat on bay. Being that I have buckets, never really paid attention. Looking for it today, can't find it...I remember the website too, said he was one of the few who had 'em...oh well.
installed? They seem to have a method to cover the integral seat belt seats in the new Silverado/Sierra, but they are pricey at about $233. My seats are beginning to show wear and dirt, so I am thinking of getting some protection. They seem to have factory match fabric which seems like a good idea.
Realize this is not the correct site, but Obyone on the regular rado site suggested I might find you here. Have a 1 1/2 mo old 2001 Xcab 2wd rado. (Stripper as well) with the V-6. Have noticed a very slight vibration right before the truck shifts in from first three gears. Only happens under very light accel. like when going downhill. Have any similar problems? Not sure if this something to raise cane about now or wait and see how it plays out since I have plenty of warranty left.
a V6 reg. cab 2WD long bed stripper. The extended cabs in general have had numerous complaints regarding vibration, and GM has supposedly made modifications to reinforce the frame with braces to address this in 2001. However, these vibrations are usually at higher speeds, like at least 45-50 mph. I am curious about your vibration. Is it like the engine running rough, or is it more like a suspension vibration? I had a problem with a bad fuel injector, and the engine just ran terrible for two days - the whole truck shook like it was running on 5 cylinders, because it WAS running on only 5 cylinders. There is a TSB on fuel injectors on the 2000 rado, and my dealer replaced one injector, flushed the rest, dumped a can of Techron in the tank, and advised that I should use Chevron gas with Techron, which I have done. I also dump a bottle of Techron in the tank at every 3K oil change. If you suspect a fuel problem I would check out the TSB and see if they will check the injectors. Short of that, you may have to wait for the check engine light to come on so they have a code to check. Even though my SES(Service Engine Soon) light came on, the dealer said I had no codes (if you believe that). But at least they knew I was very serious about getting some results when I came in. My V6 runs smoother than any truck I have owned (454s, 350s, etc.) and I would not accept anything but a real smooth running engine on your V6. I am guessing that you have a fuel related problem, more than the classic "shakerado" problem you will read about in the Silverado problems site here. (You might use keyword "shakerado" in your search here if you want to get information on that.) I would add some suggestions: Don't let the tank go below about 1/4 full, certainly fill up when the low fuel light comes on. My problems seem to have started when I let the tank run low - maybe I sucked some junk from the bottom of the tank into the injectors? Use Chevron to get the Techron and dump a can in the tank at every 3K. BTW, how is the performance of your ext cab V6? Others have posted that it is an underpowered combination. My V6 with 3.42 rear is plenty peppy for me, and I was considering a ext. cab V6, but wasn't sure about the performance. Also, what is your gas mileage? I am a cautious driver (see the Silverado owner's hangout site), and get 20 mpg in the city/27 combination city/highway - but nobody drives like me. I suspect fuel because with 6 cylinders instead of 8 you tend to notice engine performance problems sooner. Let me know what you come up with.
I've read the shakerado problems and mine doesn't seem to be that. Mine's smooth as silk above about 45. Don't think it's the engine either. It only occurs below about 40 mph and only when I have just the right combination of speed and very low load (acceleration). It seems to be worse at about 35 to 40 mph which is the high range of the third gear and seems to occur only when the momentum of the truck starts to exceed the power coming from the engine like would occur when going downhill and easing off the accelerator. It's almost like the tranny gets to the point it wants to shift but is just below the speed/power threshold to shift. If I'm slowly accelerating, it may only last for about one to two seconds, if I'm holding my speed, it may last for several seconds. Never feel it when I'm accelerating moderately or going uphill. It's really not very noticeable, but hey, it is a new truck and should be smooth.
Other than the above, am real pleased with the truck. I think the performance is pretty good, but admit I'm not a performance freak. Friend of mine has a Xcab Tundra 4wd with the V-8. While mine is not as peppy as his truck, it's not that far off. Haven't done any towing yet which may be the real test. Drove about 250 miles on the interstate and had no problem cruising 75-80 with plenty of power to pass when needed.
I have been a little disappointed in the mileage, especially after reading your post. I seem to stay around 19 to 20 in combination driving (about 75% highway), but like you, drive pretty conservatively. I think the rating on the sticker was 16 to 21, so I'm not displeased from that perspective. Just wouldn't have thought there was that much difference between the standard and Xcab.
I'll switch over to the regular rado site for futher posts on this. Like that this site is dedicated to aftremarket upgrades of strippers and would like to see it stay that way.
Maybe it is trans related. I guess the extra weight of the ext. cab. can affect your gas mileage, but how big is your rear end? (I mean, your rear axle ratio, not your pant size:)
Truck rear end is the 3.73, mine quite a bit bigger. Interestingly enough I was just looking at the Kelly Blue Book pricing and for the 3.73 option it indicates that it requires the 4.8 or 5.3 engine. Wonder if I've just got a mismatch between engine/trans/rearend.
Went to the dealer yesterday. Pretty funny, as soon as I mentioned a vibration problem the service manager, without looking at the truck, said "let me guess, a 99 Silverado and it vibrates when you reach about 60". Then looked up and realized it was a 2001 and changed his tune. Seems the shakerado problem is all to familiar to them. We did drive it and then the Service Manager talked to the trans tech. When I moved in to hear the conversation they just sort of quit talking. All I could get out of them is that they think that the torque lock up is engaging too soon and causing the engine to shudder because of the extra load. Said the converter needs a "re-calibration" but they can't do it until Chevy gives them the new calibrations. They don't know if Chevy is working on it or not. I did catch that at least two other V-6's have been brought in with similar problems. I did get the standard line of doesn't harm anything, won't create any problems, etc. I may take it to an independent tranny shop just to get their opinion.
If you run across anyone offering the fold down center seat please post. I've found mine to be about as useful as [non-permissible content removed] on a boar hog. Read the previous posts and doesn't seem like anyone has gotten a response.
3.73 is a viable option. However, I think most people have a 3.42 on their V6 for fuel economy. You probably have a rare combination for a V6, but since most are programmed for 3.42, maybe they just programmed your 3.73 truck wrong. Why not ask them if they can check that (read the program?) I just got that one response mentioned above on the fold down center seat, but never got a dealer address in return. An aftermarket "sit on the seat" console works for me, but it is irritating that GMC puts a fold down armrest in their stripper Sierra, but Chevy does not. My Steel Horse contractor's console ($80-$100?) is nice, but does prevent me from using the dash mounted cup holders(which I would never use anyway.) I guess you have the cup holders under the useless center seat, so this would not matter for you. BTW, I just got notice that my GM factory flares and body side molding shipped, so I might be installing them in a week or so. I've got my fingers crossed that I don't get the side of the truck whacked by somebody's car door in a parking lot before then.
After reading some of the posts on the regular rado site, perhaps I should be glad I got the 3.73. Most seem to be disappointed with the V-6 performance, I can't complain.
I have not seen much complaining about the V6 engines here - except by the V8 owners. If you are talking about lack of V6 performance in terms of towing/heavy hauling power, then the V6 is the wrong choice. It appears the GM has not yet fixed the pinging/knocking in the new 4.8/5.3 vortec engines, and this problem has not been reported in V6s here. I don't think a V6 owner should expect more than transportation and functional performance from their truck - that is why I bought mine - but I am satisfied with the pep of the V6 and 3.42 in my truck, although it is a lighter reg. cab model. Each to his or her own.
I agree. Most who complain are V-8 owners. I've been real pleased with mine. If you don't mind, give me some time estimates, tips on installing the body side molding when you are finished. I will be ordering soon. BTW, is there a reason you went with the GM factory molding vs.aftermarket, say JC Whitney or others?
phrase in your browser and you'll find them too.) However, the price of the good quality body side molding was as much or more than the factory molding. Also, I was concerned that anything but the factory molding might look like a hatchet job by an amateur and affect resale value. Also, I want to install flares to protect the fender wheel openings from door dings and I wanted to make sure that I got the right fit. One of the other posters here measured down from the midbody crease on the side of the truck to place the moldings with masking tape, then eyeballed them into the correct spot. I think I will put a strip of that minimally sticky blue painter's tape on the truck as a top edge guide for the molding. If all goes as advertised, the full set of body side moldings and gloss black flares should be $374(on line dealer, not the local dealer) - we shall see, maybe tomorrow. I probably won't install these until the weather breaks and I can wash/wash the truck. It's been mostly cold and rainy in the desert for the past 6 weeks - need some Chamber of Commerce weather before I can clean up the truck. I've been driving my old 73 beater more lately(dump, lumber yard, etc.) Stay tuned.
The complete set of body side moldings for my truck was about $100 at my local dealer. The only trick was, I had to find a truck with the same body style (Reg Cab, Longbed) and color of moldings (Black) that I wanted and get the VIN so the parts guy could track which moldings were needed.
They were inexpensive, fit properly, easy to install and looked like they belonged on the truck.
I haven't seen any aftermarket moldings I liked, I don't even like the GMC ones. But, I do like the Chevy one. Your results may vary.
the UPS tracking number I got off the gmpartsdirect website and the UPS website, my parts were delivered to Fort Worth, Texas, not Tucson, Arizona, where I live. The saga continues. Did any of you guys from Fort Worth get my parts by mistake? UPS thanks me for my patience - now I feel better.
folow up yet. The odd thing is that they did not actually say that they found my shipment and that it went to Fort Worth by mistake. They just kept saying that their driver in Fort Worth was notified. I wonder if somebody in Fort Worth has new flares and body molding on their rado? The saga continues.
mledjte & tucsonjwt - You guys are either living right or I'm doing something terribly wrong. Went to the local dealer today to get a price on the body side molding. Dealer said it was actually 14 different pieces of molding as GM only sold individual pieces. Even the parts guy was half laughing, half in shock when he dropped the cost of $580 plus on me. Even the dealer advised me to look elsewhere.
I've tried GMparts direct.com, but can't seem to locate any body side molding for 2001 rado. Most other sites sell in "x" foot lengths and you have to cut to fit. I would rather not do this. Any suggestions??
email you the part numbers back. I got these part numbers from both Chuck Hutton Chevrolet and gmparts direct. But, as you can see, I guess I can't recommend the online route yet, since I have yet to get the parts. My local dealer had the same ridiculous prices, which is why he said only insurance companies will pay the price. But I don't know where your dealer gets 14 pcs. I see one on the door, one behind the door on the cab, one on the box - multiply by two sides and I get 6 pcs. Punch these numbers in the gmpartsdirect.com site and see what you get: 15045280 MLDG-F/DL 15045318 MLDG-B/SL 15045547 MLDG-BX/L 15045281 MLDG-F/DL 15045319 MLDG-B/SL 15045548 MLDG-BX/L I can't guarantee that these are the correct numbers because, as I said above, I still don't have the parts. Stay tuned.
The moldings are specific to color and body type. The p/n's I have are for black moldings (with chrome accent) to fit a standard cab longbed truck. Paid List Bed molding R/L 015005231/2 $12.19 ea $26.81 Door molding R 015005405 17.93 ea 38.00 Door molding L 015045280 19.13 ea 39.78 Cab molding R 015005168 5.51 ea 13.23 Cab molding L 015045319 5.51 ea 13.23
The cost is low, I had asked my salesman (I ordered the moldings at the same time I ordered my truck, and ordered these parts via fax and email) check on the availability and pricing. Somehow they wound up giving me dealer cost. They said it was their mistake and not to worry.
It honestly took the parts guy 1 hour to come up with these part numbers after I gave him the VIN for a truck with the right body style and molding color. I can imagine that not many parts guys are willing to spend that amount of time with one customer.
cab short beds? I am hoping that is why my part numbers are different. I am also hoping that I will someday get my parts. UPS apparently doesn't answer the phone on the weekends. At least the Wildcats won.
I have the XCab SWB. I didn't even question the 14 pieces at the dealer. Once he told me the costs, I sort of quit listening and it didn't hit me until later. I'll have to look at an XCab with molding today and see what I come up with. The most I would expect is 5 per side, and that includes the 2 very short pieces from the front door to the front fender, and back of rear door to rear of cab. Not sure if these areas even have molding. I have sent a request to the parts direct online. I don't feel too encouraged as nothing comes up on the 2001 rado, nor the VIN#. Guess I'll wait and see. I don't think they changed any body styles between 2000 & 2001 did they? Maybe the 2000 body moldings fit the 2001 as well. Will let you know if I have any luck. BTW, let me know how the molding and fender flares look on that brown UPS truck when you find it. LOL.
That way, you can compare the two lists of part numbers you get. If you give them your VIN #, I hope you will get the correct color, but you might want to mention what color you want. On the plus side, the weather is excellent in Tucson today. On the minus side, UPS. I talked with their Fort Worth customer service rep and she asked me questions about how they were shipped. Of course, I told her to ask the shipper. I still have not heard back from Flow Chevrolet on this issue, so their customer service is flat also. So, I don't think I can recommend either gmpartsdirect.com or UPS at this point. Why do these things only happen to me? Am I just lucky? At least I don't have a shakerado or knocking Vortec V8. Apparently, my parts were delivered to another Chevrolet dealer in Fort Worth - they probably sold them by now. I guess I could drive down there and give them a piece of my mind. It would be a good test of V6 strictly highway mileage. Stay tuned, and see how long my patience holds out.
The article is on a 3/4 ton 4WD, but points out that you get a lot for your money, even in a stripper Suburban. Looks like about $10K under the upscale models, like our pickups.
I am looking to add some bed rail caps to my 2000 ext. cab Silverado in the next week or two. My question is whether anyone here has the Bushwacker rail caps (plastic) that are sold by places like Carparts.com and Autoaccessories.com ? They can be had for about $65.00 at either place (with discount coupon to cover shipping). They look decent and have a lifetime warranty against defects. Does anyone have any experience with these rail caps?
Also, have any of you been able to locate the aftermarket Haynes repair model for the Silverados? I found some listings online but none said that they were specifically for 99-01 Silverados. The Haynes part number is supposed to be 24066 but they did not list the ISBN number that all of the book stores use. If anyone has one of these manuals, could you please post the ISBN number that is written near the publication and copyright info page?
Thanks,
Ricobeach 2000 base ext. cab Silverado w/ auto,a/c, cass.
It's a matter of what you expect from installing the rail, and personal preference. Plastic & metal rails both will eventually chaffe the paint underneath. Metals rails protect against dents, plastic, not as well. I haven't used the bed rails caps you refer to, so can't provide any feedback specific to them. Personally, I do not like the plastic bed rails as I have seen too many eventually start warping just enough to seperate from the bed. Kinda look bad at that point. But some don't like the looks of metal rails either. I've seen some of the aluminum rails for $65 to $70, so they are not that much more expensive.
I have been looking at small sedans and pick up trucks, and have been wondering about a full size Chevy regular cab with the standard engine and 5-speed trans. I am curious about MPG, and the power that is, or is not, available to haul things in the bed... or a small trailer. I have heard that the V-6 is underpowered, and I should only get a V-8.
And some people say the 4.8L V-8 is too small, others say the 5.3L is too small, others find the 6.0L too small and opt for the 8.1L.
It depends on what you want to do with the truck. For commuting and light hauling, the V-6 is satisfactory. If you live in the mountains or pull a trailer regularly, you may want to consider the 4.8L V-8.
I bought the 4.8L because I was going to carry a small camper. It had plenty of power for me. Without the 1500+lbs of camper, the V-6 would work fine and get better mileage.
You can get them with holes, also. I needed a smooth cap with no ridges/diamond plate, etc., so I could mount my Berlin tonneau cover. These are thin but look like they will hold up OK. The tonneau covers most of the cap surface. My complaint with BAK is that I got a front rail protector that was too short (for a minitruck?) and they have yet to send me a corrrect replacement after about a month of emails and calls. Looks like I am not doing too good on these internet purchases lately. Still no word from UPS on my misdelivered flares and side molding - I call every day, but just get thanked for my patience. What patience? Where did they get that idea? It seems that everybody has lost the work ethic - as if they are doing you a big favor just talking to you. No wonder our economy is a mess. Doesn't anything/anybody work right? (Excuse rant, nobody else pays attention.)
Don't take anybody's word on how a V6 performs - test drive one for yourself under different conditions for a long time (rent one first?). Then drive the V8s - compare. I get 20 mpg city, 27+ mpg highway, but nobody drives like me - I actually drive the speed limit. V6s have lower resale value but you pay about $2K less, so I think it is a wash. Will V6s be more popular if gas prices go up? If you tow/haul heavy loads - get a V8, preferably a 3/4 ton, but don't expect good gas mileage. Check the 5.3 engine knock and Silverado problems posts here. GM may have some bugs in the new vortec V8 engines that are not worked out yet. Extended cab short beds are more popular for resale, but I have no experience driving one with a V6. (I have 2WD, reg. cab, V6, auto, 3.42 rear, long bed). You can always get a lemon, so if you buy a less expensive truck you at least won't be out so much money. Good Luck.
I agree with Tucsonjwt. I have 2wd Xcab SB with V-6 3.73 rear end. I have plenty of power for everyday driving. As post#96 indicates, personal prferences on what is sufficient power run rampant. Drive'em both and you decide what pleases you.
Thanks for you comments on the bed rail caps. I may look to see if I can find "black" metal caps. The possibility of the plastic warping has crossed my mind. I mainly want them to protect the rail from scratching. I doubt that I will be carrying too much that will dent the rails. If I go with the plastic, I am hoping that the tie downs that I have in the stake body holes will help to keep them secure.
Tucsonjwt - I agree with your comments about the lack of customer service in our country. I run into it all the time in our local stores. It is probably because qualified people have become scarce so these stores hire anyone that they can find. If they paid their personnel higher wages, they might get more motivated people. But of course we would pay more for the products as well. Hope your internet shopping troubles get better. Just keep pressing the companies until they get it right.
BTW- I discovered that Pep Boys will order the 1999-2000 Haynes Chevy Silverado repair manual if they don't have it in stock (Haynes #24066). They ended up being cheaper than any of the internet bookstores since I did not have to pay shipping. Got it for $12.99.
Comments
BTW - I know you told Ryan where you got the blue bowtie for your grille, but could you tell us again? I am thinking of getting a lighted aftermarket bowtie for the grille, and maybe painting the lens blue.
Sittin pretty in Tucson.
Should hit 70s tomorrow -good mod installation weather, but nothing arrived in the mail yet.
Later
Joe
Later.
I must have a true colletor's vehicle. Should I get on Ebay and start the auction now, or wait until it is a real classic when the next new body style comes out? Antiques Roadshow is coming to town - maybe I'll drive it down there - too bad I threw away the original wrapper.
This truck could be as valuable as a misprinted stamp.
It would be easy to paint with plastic model paint. 5 minutes, and the grill is out. Then you can pop the bowtie out and do with it what you want.
I got the idea from my dad (he's 78), his truck has a red bowtie and when I looked close, it was red plastic tape.
With tape, I change the color as often as I want. With paint I'm stuck with one color........but, since I haven't wanted to change the color, paint isn't such a bad idea.
Mike L
BTW - got the Bed Rug today - looks pretty sturdy and heavier duty than I thought. Velcro looks super heavy duty - like they will really do a number on the paint finish. Hope I never have to take it out. I'll wait until the ProCaps get here and do the job at one time. (BAK has ProCaps "on constraint", so to speak. I guess they don't have much demand for long bed rails, since most pickups sold are now short bed extended cabs. They were "making them as we speak" when I called them earlier today.)
Options when bought:
Cloth Seats, Carpeting, Day/Night Mirror, Cigarette Lighter, Rear Bumper, Metaliac Paint, cloth mats
Options added:
Bed Mat, Radio, Speakers, Antenna, Right Door Mirror, A/C, wheel covers
Options never had worth mentioning:
power steering, clock (clock came on radio)
Bottom Line:
Drove it a year and made a profit when I sold it, no problems in 13,500 miles
1994 Toyota T-100 STD
Options when bought:
Sliding-rear window, rear bumper
Options added:
radio, speakers, wheel covers, bed mat, tailgate bed liner, cigarette lighter, right-door mirror, A/C
Options never had worth mentioning:
cloth seats, carpeting, day/night mirror, clock (clock came on radio)
Bottom line:
had it slightly over five years, one problem (EGR valve) fixed under warranty, drove it 86,000 miles, did not lose money on this truck either
2000 Toyota Tundra Base
This truck is much higher up the food chain than the previous two
Options came with truck:
Bedliner, A/C, Towing package, Tilt Steering, Variable Intermittent Wipers, Sliding-Rear window, cloth mats
Options added after bought:
wheel covers, CD/Cassette radio (replaced factory cassette), bigger tires, vinyl mats, fog lights
Options do not have worth mentioning:
none
Bottom line:
The truck now has 26,000 on it and I have had it over a year and a half. Very reliable so far.
Are you saying you owned a 1994 Toyota for 5 years and 86,000 miles and sold it for the same price you paid for it? This would qualify you for stripper Hall of Fame status.
Installed the BAK rail covers. Went OK but was a little hard to get the covers perfectly flat due to the sticky tape on the inside vertical surface - it stuck before the caps were in the best position. Clamping down the tonneau rails over them seemed to level things out. The reveal on the outside edge relative to the tonneau rail seems pretty uniform.
BAK sent me the wrong size bulkhead rail protector. It is just an L shaped piece of material, but it was about 6" too short (maybe for a mini truck?). They are supposed to be sending me the correct size. I slid the incorrect one in place without removing the tape. I hope to pull it out and replace it with the correct one when it arrives. I'll probably not remove the tonneau rails again, since the bulkhead rail cap seems to fit snug without sticking it to the rail (I have a couple of lengths of camper shell tape on the bottom side of the tonneau cover bulkhead rail to compensate for the difference in the bulkhead/side rail height.) The bulkhead cap does not cover the whole rail, due to the L shape - you still see some of the painted surface on top of the rail, and below the inside edge of the rail. They think most people have a drop in rail liner that goes over the bulkhead rail, so I guess they don't spend much time engineering a custom fit cap. $109 for the set of 3 pcs. - purchased directly from BAK -I get the impression that they don't sell directly to owners one at a time much - mostly to dealers. They are located in North Hollywood, CA.
I'm still debating flares - leaning toward black now, even if they are glossy, since I have so much black trim on the truck. (I did hear from Ryan, but did not get his preference.) I checked out the Chevy truck lot - looks like the 3/4 tons have mostly the glossy black flares. The other trucks that aren't black are some shade of gray - I don't think I would want that.) This must be what gals go through in choosing the right shade of lipstick. My outfit is getting more difficult to accessorize.
We had a few days of warm weather, then it was freezing last night (snowed on Thursday!.) Got up to about 60 degrees yesterday, so I could work on the truck - got a sunburn. Now we are back down in the 30s. I have not been able to give the truck a good washing in about a month - raining or cloudy most every day, and rain predicted for this weekend - not Chamber of Commerce weather -should be 70 daytime/40 nightime.
Later.
Anybody want to guess how much this replacement seat will cost? I'll guess $200 - let's see if I am right. Stay tuned.
Allen-
Mike L
The seat seems to entirely replace the whole center seat - top and bottom - with one that looks like the factory folding seat. I don't want to get into trouble with copyrights and free advertising here - so email me at tucsonjw@netzero.net and I'll give you the website. I emailed the company for details, but no response yet. They were mentioned in Sport Truck magazine.
Still have not gotten a replacement front rail cap from BAK - then sent a minitruck size.
Berlin tonneau cover rear strut clamps came off while driving. I added a locknut to the bolt - we'll see what happens.
Mike L
Go to ebay and search for the item no. listed below as I can't post the link.
562492748
Unfortunately, there was another company selling the center fold down seat on bay. Being that I have buckets, never really paid attention. Looking for it today, can't find it...I remember the website too, said he was one of the few who had 'em...oh well.
I am curious about your vibration. Is it like the engine running rough, or is it more like a suspension vibration? I had a problem with a bad fuel injector, and the engine just ran terrible for two days - the whole truck shook like it was running on 5 cylinders, because it WAS running on only 5 cylinders. There is a TSB on fuel injectors on the 2000 rado, and my dealer replaced one injector, flushed the rest, dumped a can of Techron in the tank, and advised that I should use Chevron gas with Techron, which I have done. I also dump a bottle of Techron in the tank at every 3K oil change. If you suspect a fuel problem I would check out the TSB and see if they will check the injectors. Short of that, you may have to wait for the check engine light to come on so they have a code to check. Even though my SES(Service Engine Soon) light came on, the dealer said I had no codes (if you believe that). But at least they knew I was very serious about getting some results when I came in.
My V6 runs smoother than any truck I have owned (454s, 350s, etc.) and I would not accept anything but a real smooth running engine on your V6. I am guessing that you have a fuel related problem, more than the classic "shakerado" problem you will read about in the Silverado problems site here. (You might use keyword "shakerado" in your search here if you want to get information on that.)
I would add some suggestions: Don't let the tank go below about 1/4 full, certainly fill up when the low fuel light comes on. My problems seem to have started when I let the tank run low - maybe I sucked some junk from the bottom of the tank into the injectors? Use Chevron to get the Techron and dump a can in the tank at every 3K.
BTW, how is the performance of your ext cab V6? Others have posted that it is an underpowered combination. My V6 with 3.42 rear is plenty peppy for me, and I was considering a ext. cab V6, but wasn't sure about the performance. Also, what is your gas mileage? I am a cautious driver (see the Silverado owner's hangout site), and get 20 mpg in the city/27 combination city/highway - but nobody drives like me.
I suspect fuel because with 6 cylinders instead of 8 you tend to notice engine performance problems sooner. Let me know what you come up with.
Other than the above, am real pleased with the truck. I think the performance is pretty good, but admit I'm not a performance freak. Friend of mine has a Xcab Tundra 4wd with the V-8. While mine is not as peppy as his truck, it's not that far off. Haven't done any towing yet which may be the real test. Drove about 250 miles on the interstate and had no problem cruising 75-80 with plenty of power to pass when needed.
I have been a little disappointed in the mileage, especially after reading your post. I seem to stay around 19 to 20 in combination driving (about 75% highway), but like you, drive pretty conservatively. I think the rating on the sticker was 16 to 21, so I'm not displeased from that perspective. Just wouldn't have thought there was that much difference between the standard and Xcab.
Went to the dealer yesterday. Pretty funny, as soon as I mentioned a vibration problem the service manager, without looking at the truck, said "let me guess, a 99 Silverado and it vibrates when you reach about 60". Then looked up and realized it was a 2001 and changed his tune. Seems the shakerado problem is all to familiar to them. We did drive it and then the Service Manager talked to the trans tech. When I moved in to hear the conversation they just sort of quit talking. All I could get out of them is that they think that the torque lock up is engaging too soon and causing the engine to shudder because of the extra load. Said the converter needs a "re-calibration" but they can't do it until Chevy gives them the new calibrations. They don't know if Chevy is working on it or not. I did catch that at least two other V-6's have been brought in with similar problems. I did get the standard line of doesn't harm anything, won't create any problems, etc. I may take it to an independent tranny shop just to get their opinion.
If you run across anyone offering the fold down center seat please post. I've found mine to be about as useful as [non-permissible content removed] on a boar hog. Read the previous posts and doesn't seem like anyone has gotten a response.
You probably have a rare combination for a V6, but since most are programmed for 3.42, maybe they just programmed your 3.73 truck wrong. Why not ask them if they can check that (read the program?)
I just got that one response mentioned above on the fold down center seat, but never got a dealer address in return. An aftermarket "sit on the seat" console works for me, but it is irritating that GMC puts a fold down armrest in their stripper Sierra, but Chevy does not. My Steel Horse contractor's console ($80-$100?) is nice, but does prevent me from using the dash mounted cup holders(which I would never use anyway.) I guess you have the cup holders under the useless center seat, so this would not matter for you.
BTW, I just got notice that my GM factory flares and body side molding shipped, so I might be installing them in a week or so. I've got my fingers crossed that I don't get the side of the truck whacked by somebody's car door in a parking lot before then.
They were inexpensive, fit properly, easy to install and looked like they belonged on the truck.
I haven't seen any aftermarket moldings I liked, I don't even like the GMC ones. But, I do like the Chevy one. Your results may vary.
Mike L.
Did any of you guys from Fort Worth get my parts by mistake? UPS thanks me for my patience - now I feel better.
I've tried GMparts direct.com, but can't seem to locate any body side molding for 2001 rado. Most other sites sell in "x" foot lengths and you have to cut to fit. I would rather not do this. Any suggestions??
Punch these numbers in the gmpartsdirect.com site and see what you get:
15045280 MLDG-F/DL 15045318 MLDG-B/SL 15045547 MLDG-BX/L
15045281 MLDG-F/DL 15045319 MLDG-B/SL 15045548 MLDG-BX/L
I can't guarantee that these are the correct numbers because, as I said above, I still don't have the parts.
Stay tuned.
Paid List
Bed molding R/L 015005231/2 $12.19 ea $26.81
Door molding R 015005405 17.93 ea 38.00
Door molding L 015045280 19.13 ea 39.78
Cab molding R 015005168 5.51 ea 13.23
Cab molding L 015045319 5.51 ea 13.23
The cost is low, I had asked my salesman (I ordered the moldings at the same time I ordered my truck, and ordered these parts via fax and email) check on the availability and pricing. Somehow they wound up giving me dealer cost. They said it was their mistake and not to worry.
It honestly took the parts guy 1 hour to come up with these part numbers after I gave him the VIN for a truck with the right body style and molding color. I can imagine that not many parts guys are willing to spend that amount of time with one customer.
Mike L
At least the Wildcats won.
On the plus side, the weather is excellent in Tucson today.
On the minus side, UPS. I talked with their Fort Worth customer service rep and she asked me questions about how they were shipped. Of course, I told her to ask the shipper. I still have not heard back from Flow Chevrolet on this issue, so their customer service is flat also. So, I don't think I can recommend either gmpartsdirect.com or UPS at this point. Why do these things only happen to me? Am I just lucky? At least I don't have a shakerado or knocking Vortec V8.
Apparently, my parts were delivered to another Chevrolet dealer in Fort Worth - they probably sold them by now. I guess I could drive down there and give them a piece of my mind. It would be a good test of V6 strictly highway mileage.
Stay tuned, and see how long my patience holds out.
http://www.truckworld.com/Sport-Utility/00-stripsuburban/stripsuburban.html
The article is on a 3/4 ton 4WD, but points out that you get a lot for your money, even in a stripper Suburban. Looks like about $10K under the upscale models, like our pickups.
I am looking to add some bed rail caps to my 2000 ext. cab Silverado in the next week or two. My question is whether anyone here has the Bushwacker rail caps (plastic) that are sold by places like Carparts.com and Autoaccessories.com ? They can be had for about $65.00 at either place (with discount coupon to cover shipping). They look decent and have a lifetime warranty against defects. Does anyone have any experience with these rail caps?
Also, have any of you been able to locate the aftermarket Haynes repair model for the Silverados? I found some listings online but none said that they were specifically for 99-01 Silverados. The Haynes part number is supposed to be 24066 but they did not list the ISBN number that all of the book stores use. If anyone has one of these manuals, could you please post the ISBN number that is written near the publication and copyright info page?
Thanks,
Ricobeach
2000 base ext. cab Silverado w/ auto,a/c, cass.
Any and all comments appreciated.
Andy
It depends on what you want to do with the truck. For commuting and light hauling, the V-6 is satisfactory. If you live in the mountains or pull a trailer regularly, you may want to consider the 4.8L V-8.
I bought the 4.8L because I was going to carry a small camper. It had plenty of power for me. Without the 1500+lbs of camper, the V-6 would work fine and get better mileage.
I've heard up to 27mpg on the V-6
Mike L
I get 20 mpg city, 27+ mpg highway, but nobody drives like me - I actually drive the speed limit.
V6s have lower resale value but you pay about $2K less, so I think it is a wash.
Will V6s be more popular if gas prices go up?
If you tow/haul heavy loads - get a V8, preferably a 3/4 ton, but don't expect good gas mileage.
Check the 5.3 engine knock and Silverado problems posts here. GM may have some bugs in the new vortec V8 engines that are not worked out yet.
Extended cab short beds are more popular for resale, but I have no experience driving one with a V6. (I have 2WD, reg. cab, V6, auto, 3.42 rear, long bed).
You can always get a lemon, so if you buy a less expensive truck you at least won't be out so much money.
Good Luck.
Tucsonjwt - I agree with your comments about the lack of customer service in our country. I run into it all the time in our local stores. It is probably because qualified people have become scarce so these stores hire anyone that they can find. If they paid their personnel higher wages, they might get more motivated people. But of course we would pay more for the products as well. Hope your internet shopping troubles get better. Just keep pressing the companies until they get it right.
BTW- I discovered that Pep Boys will order the 1999-2000 Haynes Chevy Silverado repair manual if they don't have it in stock (Haynes #24066). They ended up being cheaper than any of the internet bookstores since I did not have to pay shipping. Got it for $12.99.
Ricobeach