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Comments
If you can wait a few months, the 2003 LS is rumoured to have a power upgrade and possibly (hopefully) interior upgrades as well.
Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information.
Thanks as always,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director, Edmunds.com
Scott
LLSOC Member
You don't mention what the power rating of the amp is. If it's 100 watts per channel, then the amp will draw 20 amperes of current at full load. So use heavy gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse.
Can't help you on the wiring color code issue. Perhaps someone has a shop manual?
Happy listening....
Mike, congrats on the amp. As far as wiring an amp in, first you need to know if the amp you bought has speaker level inputs. If so, then you just need to cut and splice into your existing speaker wires coming from the radio and feed the input side of the amp. Then run another wire to the other side of the splice and hook it to the output side of the amp.
Now, if the amp does not have speaker level inputs, you will need to buy a line converter (I think that's what they call them) that will reduce the power from the radio so you can hook into the RCA inputs on the amp. Same deal though with having to cut and splice into the existing wires. Do not try wiring the radio wires into the amp unless you have speaker level inputs or you will blow your amp.
Since I just installed a sub in my car, I pulled the radio out, cut into the speaker wires right at the back of the radio and then ran the wires down the passenger side to the amp that I mounted in the trunk.
The trunk is the best place for the amp since the battery is back there and is a short run to connect. There are also a couple of easy grounds to get to at the top of the spare tire well.
There will also be either a blue wire coming from the amp or a remote terminal labeled +. This would go to something that powers on when the key is turned on, i.e. the radio. On mine, though, rather than having the amp turn on or off, I just jumpered the remote to main power wire and it keeps the amp on all the time. The way I figure it, the amp has almost no power consumption unless the radio is playing so it saves having to make another splice somewhere. I've had this same amp in 3 cars now for more than six years and if has never had a problem because it stays on all the time.
The speaker wires in the LS seem to follow the same color coding scheme that the aftermarket stereos use. There are a pair of each grey, green, purple and I just can't remember the other color but it's not yellow, black, red or blue. Ther is also a convention on which color feeds which speaker that I cannot remember off the top, but if the amp has instructions with it, it should list the colors and which speaker in the car those colors go to.
Also, one other thing about installing an amp that I know the pros do (but I did not on mine), you are not supposed to have any part of the amp case touching any metal in the car. This creates another grounding point and can generate noise. Again, since mine is only feeding a sub, my crossover eliminates any high frequencies before they get to the speaker. What you are supposed to do is mount the amp to a piece of wood or plastic and then mount that to the car somewhere.
Well there's my quick lesson on amp installation 101. Let me know if you have any questions, although I may not know about them until we're at Mania.
Bruno
LLSOC member
The amp is a Rockford-Fosgate 200.4. I do plan on mounting it in the trunk. You used the void between the left rear fender and the wheel well area, didn't you? The amp will fit, but it's tight getting it in there.
It does have speaker level inputs. I assume the rectangular plug in the back of the radio is the speaker plug? Of course the instructions don't mention a generic wiring scheme. I guess I'll have to try the 9V battery trick the guy at Circut City told me about. I will be putting Clairon components in the front doors and move the Polks to the rear deck. I figure I'll just wire the rear door and deck together.
I hope to have it done by next week, but if not, we can have an amp/speaker mounting seminar while we're waiting to "run the cones"!
Mike
LLSOC Member
Mine was from the first model year maybe now in the third year problems are lessening. They have some $399 lease deals which is less than i am currently paying
That still doesn't stop me from wishing the V8 with a manual was available, if I move or change jobs to outside town, I'd go back to the manual. Still, the SST does a good job and makes the commute a bit more fun the few times the road will open up a bit.
I purchased the V1 and the optional concealed module. I mounted the V1 itself with velcro on the rear deck, just ahead of the third brakelight. You just need one half of the velcro, as the loops grab onto the carpet on the rear deck very firmly. The main radar "window" points to the front of the car. I have the unit offset slightly to the side of the third brake light so the rear "window" of the unit beside the controls, can "see" out the rear window. I drilled a small hole through the rear deck to feed the RJ-11 cord from the V1 down to the trunk. I then removed the rear seat bench (two small release latches are visible from the passenger compartment) and routed the RJ-11 under the seat, down the drivers side of the car, under the carpet along the doorsills. Removed the drivers side kick panel near the door to mount the small power module for the V1. Tapped into a switched 12V source somewhere down there, along with a ground. Ran the RJ-11 from the other side of the V1 power module up the pillar to the drivers side corner of the windshield. Used 3m doublesided tape to secure the module to the glass itself. Dont use velcro here, because the module will just keep falling down. Dont use crazy glue, because there isnt enough surface area on the backside of the module to hold. 3M tape works great.
I also decided to get a simple red square off/on switch from Radio Shack. I routed the power wire from the V1 power module to this switch which allows me to turn the V1 unit off/on at will. I drilled a small hole in the blank panel right below the Fuel Door/Trunk Release switch. The remote concealed module has a button that allows you to temporarily mute the V1 if you encounter a false alarm or a series of false alarms (excellent feature) and also allows you to switch sensitivity modes.
To finish things off, I purchased a 3rd brake light cover from the Lincoln dealer and sat this cover on top of the V1 in my back deck. With my tinted windows, even in bright light, its impossible to see the V1. The additional brake light cover covers the V1 almost completely, and the cover looks very natural and unassuming back there. The open end faces the front of the car, keeping the radar detection to the front of the car open. Rear radar detection is somewhat reduced, I assume, because the beams now have to penetrate the plastic. But in 15 years of driving, Ive never been nailed with radar from the rear anyways. My front laser detection is still good, because everytime Im behind an SUV with a high LCD-type 3rd brake light, it sets off the V1 laser.
For a bit more protection, I also purchased the laser diffuser license plate cover from www.radarbusters.com. On the rear of my LS I have the anti red-light camera plate over my tag. But thats another story. ;-)
Brian: Feel Free to post the above to the appropriate forum on LLSOC. Also, I seemed to have forgotten my LLSOC password. :-0
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=602140561&r=0&t=0
Thanks for repeating all this.
"Lincolns are not, and should not be, small vehicles. Apart from the bland and boring (sic) LS, there has never been a really small Lincoln, and that is as it should be...Earle MacPherson, of strut-suspension fame, was once Lincoln's chief engineer responsible for the "small" '52 models that cleaned up in the Carrera Panamericana stock car classes (!!! - emphasis mine). Even those cars, heavy as they were at two tons plus, were too small for traditional Lincolnesque presence..."
This is the attitude that we have to change, guys and gals. Hope the Lincoln engineers and stylists understand that the type of vehicle that could win the Carrera Panamericana should not be sneezed at. Anybody hear of Porsche? Comments?
BTW I've moved the LLSOC site over to another provider so as to reduce the possibility of the downtime we experienced last week. The site is almost back to full functionality with the exception of the recalcitrant bulletin board. Hope to get that resolved today.
Brian
More power expected for the 2003 V8 along with other improvements.
EPA mileage: 17-23
My experience:
21.5 MPG overall 30,000 miles
worst mileage: 15 MPG stop & go
best mileage: 28.2 MPG steady 60 MPH level road
50 miles at 100 MPH: 22.5 MPG
Exceptional passing acceleration: 50-100 MPH
Quiet cabin on most road surfaces... like your living room.
Handling: ALWAYS better than you expect!
Saw an LSE at the Lincoln dealer in the Twin Cities a couple of weeks ago. (wblincoln.com, same dealer that stocks manuals). Love the chome dual exhaust. Reminds me of my dad's 68 Shelby. The front end looks a little too pontiac for me though. Any difference other than visual effects from the sport LS8?
Question for everyone... recently when I start my car I occasionally get a burst of blue smoke at startup. The engine starts quickly and then runs fine. But whats with the smoke. Has anyone else had this problem.
In addition it sometimes floods and wont start until you put the pedal to the floor.
Dont know if this is related or not
Kevin
If your window does let go and won't stay up, don't use the clear plastic packing tape. I thought that would work better (and look better) than duct tape but the dealer had a heck of a time getting the residue off. As bad as it looks duct tape is a lot easier to get off.
Chris - LLSOC Charter Member
That's a hard-start condition that the dealer should know about and be able to correct. There was a TSB for it in the 1999 section of the club's TSB listings.
Brian
I just logged on in the same way as with the old board. The live chat is a good addition. Like anything new it will take a little getting used to, but I think it’s going to be a much better board. Poor Ray, after all his work reconstructing the old board, I hope we can integrate all the old posts he brought back from the dead.
Tom
Member LLSOC
Chris - LLSOC Charter Member
What a time for this stuff (radio, window) to be happening. I hope you can get your dealer to fix the window right away. Wouldn't want those Beemer boys next Sat to see duct tape on your LS! Good luck & c u Fri.
Top speed on mine before any modifications was 143mph. I haven't had the nerve or the open road lately to find out what the new top end is. There is a little lag thanks to the computer deciding it should get out of economy mode and deciding to downshift. You can check with your dealer to see if the transmission reflash was done on your car. If it wasn't ask them to please do it. You'll notice a difference.
Try Torrie at www.fordpartsnetwork.com for your floor mat. He can get them for you and he works with LLSOC and our members so he's highly recommended.
Brian
LLSOC Prez
If Witte can't take you check with Rancho. Talk to Tony or Brian and they'll get it done this week. Would hate to have you at the autocross looking shabby!
Brian
Torrie has been fantastic at getting my LS parts. If something is going to be a day or two late he'll email you every ten minutes to apologize for the delay. The dealers on the other hand....
Wish the economy would improve. This is the first time in a decade that I have to pass on the Daytona 500 and to rub salt in the wound, I won't be at Mania III either.
C'est la vie!
Ray
LLSOC Charter member
What about the smoke? any ideas? same TSB ?
Kevin
Who's still waiting for the heated seat and moonroof repairs..
Chuck
LSE-specific items are:
--Standard 17" aluminum, 5-spoke, 2-tone Blade Grey wheels
--Optional 17" aluminum, 5-spoke, chrome wheels (option code 64C)
--Modified upper grille: Blade Grey with color-keyed upper trim piece
--Modified front fascia: Unique fascia with round fog lamps
--Unique side rocker panels, color-keyed
--Unique rear valence, color-keyed
--Spoiler: Low-profile design with no opening, color-keyed
--Dual stainless-steel exhaust tips
--Rear license plate surround, color-keyed
--LSE badge
--LSE floormats
Available colors and trim:
--Black Clearcoat (UA) with Light Graphite (42) and Deep Charcoal (4W) trim
--Silver Birch Clearcoat (JP) with Light Graphite (42) and Deep Charcoal (4W) trim
This info comes from the LS ordering guide. There are no mechanical upgrades; the LSE is mechanically identical to the corresponding Sport model.
There is no factory "LS-C" designation, so my guess is that it's a dealer/aftermarket package of some sort. There are some aftermarket packages that are visually similar to the LSE, but if it's a "real" LSE then it'll say so on the window sticker.
Hope this answers your questions.
JohnnyLinc
LLSOC charter member
I've never wound mine all the way out, but have seen 135 while passing two semis in a row, and it was still pulling & had a bit left. Once you've done some highway passing with your car, I predict you'll change your handle to "sixtyto120".
Scott
LLSOC Member
1. Borla cat-back exhaust system. I'm bring the car into Magnaflow to have the production prototype system put on for the review of the members attending Mania 3. From the last test drive I'm going to like the sound better than the Borla.
2. Opened up the air intake, from the airbox, which I basically took the bottom off except for the one side with the peg in it, to the replacement of the air tube with some 3 inch PVC pipe. Along with adding a cold-air intake running from the lower front air-dam. Also added a fuel/air ratio adjustable recalibrator to let me mess around with the mixture settings.
3. 18x8 Voxx MGR wheels with Michelin Pilot Sports in the 245/45R18Z size.
4. Porterfield Brakes Carbon/Kevlar R4S compound brake pads. These are fantastic pads. Great when their cold, even better when hot.
Took the car to another dealer and had them check the fuel pressure drop for one hour. It dropped 35#. They called the tech line and replaced the "jet" fuel pump (external to the one in the tank) and the IAC motor. The pressure drop was now 45#. Called the tech line back and they said to change the fuel pressure regulator and the pump in the tank. After this, the pressure drop was only 2# in one hour. The dealer service writer was leery about the fix and told me he was keeping the ticket open on the car and to call him and let him know the status. He said the car would now start without pressing the gas. This was on Thursday, the 7th.
Drove it over the weekend with the temps in the mid 50's here in Chicago and after warming up and sitting for about an hour, it will usually start on the first turn of the key but stumbles and sounds like it wants to die and then catches and idles smoothly. Very perplexing. I can still smell the strong odor of gas when it does this.
It went back to the dealer today and we'll see what they want to do. One guy I talked to said they should check the relative injector flow test to see if an injector is randomly sticking open.
I wanted to say thanks to Scot Douglas who has been a great help in passing along valuable information.
I'll let you guys know of any updates.
Matt