Beach, You are not alone. I have the rattle behind the instrument panel in my 2000 M. The car is quiet other than that. I plan on taking the dash apart to find it myself, but I have not yet had a chance. If you are able to get some resolution to that from your dealer, please post the fix. I would be very interested. I will post my findings once I get into the dash. Thanks.
Alright guys, It's finally ready for sale. I ordered mine this morning. Will have it in a few days. Will install it this weekend. Also found out it is also for an LHS.
At one point I heard a "rattle" in my dash ('99M). It turns out that it was my glasses case "bouncing" on a CD case in the glove box. Might want to check for loose items in the glove box before you tear the dash apart.
I have a 2001, but also have a clicking noise. Was yours in the back? I can hear mine from the inside and outside. It seems to be coming from the back passenger side, underneath area. Do you think this could be the a/c thing too, like yours?
I second what pjyoung said - so far, all of my rattles have turned out to be caused by things in the glove box, even though they didn't sound like that's where they were coming from.
I have 2001 M. paint on the car has something under the paint. like dirt. and bubble near taillight lens Just wondering if anybody else has this problem.
maybe next time, i wish i would have saw your post, i saw tandee's post on da plane da plane, then i went to yahoo typed in fantasy island up pops ricardo i was thinking richard, clicked on his bio and there it was rich corinthian leather. so i have 2 of the 5 pts. i'm on a roll ))
I've been following discussions here on the board for about a month or so. Looking to buy a new car in the April-May timeframe, and am looking at the near-luxo sport sedan category.
I have NEVER been a Chrysler fan since driving rented K-Cars in the 80s, and I am 39 with a wife and soon-to-be 2 year old boy. I work in sales and marketing in the electronics industry and use my car in business as well as for personal use. I live in SoCal between LA and SD and currently drive a first edition Infiniti G20 (fantastic car BTW).
I started a list of cars to consider -- it's about 22 models long, of which 6 are on the A-list. My requirements are 4-door, quality, good image, enjoyable to drive, $30K tops.
Here's my top 6 that I intend to look at: Acura TL (possibly S-type) Audi A4 Chrysler 300M Infiniti I30 Nissan Maxima Volkswagen Passat
I'd be interested in any and all comments, and yes, i do realize that the 300M is the largest of the bunch.
I always check and am very sure that it is not something in the glove compartment making the noise (the only thing in there is the manual and some insurance papers). Thanks anyway.
red7700- Does the rattle sound like something is loose behind the gauges over any type of road? Mine does but I have only looked around; there is no way I'm going to take anything apart. Sure, it's very annoying but with the dealers I've been dealing with they'd probably blame everything on me and say that I knocked something loose.
tandee- Just yesterday, my son riding in back said that somewhere in the rear passenger's side there was a clicking over bumps. I can only imagine what it is now.
fuzzywuzzy- Thanks, I'll look near the wipers sometime this week for the screws.
All- I know I've already asked this but what is the 2001 build quality like? Do they seem any better put together? I know they have nicer features but what are they built like? Any quieter? Better-fitting, softer materials? I was very strangely thinking about possibly replacing my 2000 with a 2001 if I continue to have problems but after looking at some recent posts the rattles and creaks, etc. still seem to be there. For a little over 30 grand you can't expect it to be perfect but a little better would be nice. I just can't seem to find any other car that really competes with the 300M.
you might want to add the new $30k Jaguar X-type wich goes on sale this summer to your list, you know ford owns jag, well this one looks like a ford contour with the Jag S-type headlamps, the beefed up hondas are called type s.
Bob, I drive 30,000 miles/yr, and am on my second 300M, an '01. I had 2 Taurus SHOs before that, a '94 V-6 and a '98 V-8. I too am in sales, and sometimes drive from Buffalo to Detroit or Phila. non-stop. The 300M eats the miles in style and comfort. I am actually looking forward to an early-morning jaunt to Pittsburgh tomorrow. Your 6 are all good cars, but I like the 300M for size, style comfort and amenities. It swallows an unbelievable amount of cargo when I do trade shows, and the '99 averaged 23MPG on regular over 69,000 miles. It never let me down on the road, and I had no problems with it in the 30 months I drove it. With the deals on now, $30K should get you one nicely loaded. Good luck!
My prior car was a '93 Chrysler Concorde, which I thought was a great car. I confess that when I was in the market for a new car last year, I didn't really consider any cars other than the 300M. My experience with the Concorde, wanting a large car to accomodate my 6'4" frame, and my love for the looks of the M caused me to test drive an M, which confirmed that it was all I imagined and more, and I bought it. After 7 mos. and 11,000 miles, I have not had ANY regrets.
Of the cars you list, the Acura, Audi, and VW strike me as worthy of consideration. Test drive your candidates and see what YOU think. If you haven't tried a Chrysler since the 80's K-cars, though, your mental database on Chrysler is too moldy to be of any value for the decision you are about to make.
Here's how I solved my rattle, creek, crack and other internal noise paranoia. I put two empty cd cases in the back seat on top of each other and blame everything I hear on them.
Oh well, gotta rule out the simple stuff first. I hope you can get the dealer to fix your car's problem(s). I'm very grateful that my car has been so trouble-free for 4800 miles & counting. ( I realize that some of you drive more than that going to work and back each day
There is this road called Route 27 that runs from Miami to the Alligator Alley. Even during rush hour it is not very congested as it is kind of far from civilization, running on the edge of the everglades. It so happens that it runs by my town. And when it is not a rush hour - whoa! 300M is a perfect car to cruise on this road. I spanked some Mercedes E-class the other night.
The only problem is that there are a lot of crossroads with stop signs there. And some people don't stop before they cross. Or they think they can wing it.
Tandee - the clicking noise from the back might be the fuel pump. It's normal. It usually goes away shortly after starting the car.
I recall hearing it after I listened specifically for it after someone else posted about the fuel pump, but I don't notice any more (usually have the radio on). I'll try listening tomorrow.
I second the question about the location of the sound deadening materials. I'm also curious how difficult it was to remove the interior to do the job? Is the cheaper roof material available at Home Depot any better or worse than say Dynamat?
Brembo is the only one I know of that makes a complete kit. Bigger rotors/calipers. Howerver you will pay for it. Last time I was quoted a price of $3800! Just for the front. No rears were made.
VHT Brake caliper paint. Racefan9 has the same paint, & can give you part#'s. I had my can for a while before I used it. I bought it at an auto store.
It's not too hard to do the sound deading. The seats are easy to remove(4 bolts on each)The side panels, & door sills pop off, or have 1 screw in them. The back seat unhooks, & comes right out. You don't need to take the center console out, but I would guess it would be a more complete job if it was. I didn't take mine out. Then the carpet pulls up. I taped it to the console to hold it up, while I applied the Dynamat. My results were not great. Maybe I didn't use enough, or maybe I put it in wrong. I didn't see any difference in noise reduction. The only difference I noticed was the bass in the stereo was a little louder.
VHT brake caliper paint autoaccessory.com have to call it in 1-888-734-8734 page P35 from their catalog $4.99 racing red, bright blue, real orange, gloss black, cast aluminum, bright yellow, satin blac
Yes, my rattle is exactly as you have described. If I turn the radio down on the highway, I can even hear it then - directly behind the gauges. It is more noticeable on rough roads and bumps, but definitely still there on smoother roads. It is definitely NOT something loose in the glove compartment. Other than that, my car seems pretty solid.
Also had other rattles That I fixed. It also sounded like it was in the dash. Turned out to be the speaker by the drivers side mirror. The screws holding it on were a little loose. I tighened them, & the rattle went away. IMHO, it's a good idea to check any screws/bolts around the area that rattles, & tighten if need be. Not saying it will fix it, but it's something to check.
beach15 - just want to wish you luck whatever you do. I think the M is still a great car...if you get another, order it new from the factory.
rmsbob - same advice, good luck & order from factory. I did test the Acura, fun to drive but interior felt small & the styling was ho-hum unless you add the body kit, chrome wheels & spoiler (options that totaled approx $4,000). Also tested an A6 Audi but that's a little out of the price range. Go get that M!
exshoman & tandee - I've got the same clicking at cold startup; of course, I could never duplicate the sound @ the dealer & they could find nothing wrong. Same with rear driver window; it stuck once, dealer couldn't duplicate & would not even look at it.
ruski - love the driving stories. I had a nice run last Saturday eve coming North on I87 (Deegan NY state thruway combo) going home from Brooklyn. Doing about 75 or 80 & came up on a Lexus GS400 & a GMC Jimmy. Passed the Jimmy first, then the GS4. Both hopped on. I took Sugar to 95. GS4 passed me. @ 100 the Jimmy tries to pass. Ain't gonna happen. Took Sugar to 110 (almost to the limit)& held off the Jimmy but never caught the GS4 again. He played with me for a while then really opened it up & move easily away from Sugar while we were @ 110! I don't have the PHP/PHG. Some fun driving!
fuzzywuzzy - love that 152mph M/Viper run! True, its not totally safe but if I had the PHP, I might be tempted at least once.
All - keep those good driving stories coming. That is why you bought your M's, isn't it?
Man I'm gone from NYC for 2 years & you can go 75 on the Deegan. With all the traffie around the Stadium , & the GWB, I could never do more then 60. Did they raise the limit? I drove the Sawmill going to Brewster last time I was in NY with the M. All those curves are so fun
About 8:30 on a Saturday night. It was unusually clear traffic & once you're in Yonkers/Westchester it's smooth sailing. I also had a nice run on the Saw Mill during the holidays & didnt know it had so many twisties. Almost bit the big one on an off ramp; used Autostick to slow me down before I lost it! You got great driving in FL.(among other things!). I was in Ft Lauderdale last summer & was back & forth on I95 visiting friends in Miami & I couldn't go fast enough (in a rented Deville)@ 11 in the morning. Doing 85-90 I was flashed out of the left by a Canary 'Vette being followed by a new MB S420 & a big BMW 740IL. I hopped on & made great time to Miami.
Hello from a new guy on the block. I've been reading comments on here for a few months and since I just joined the club, thought I would participate by picking brains. Have'00 M with 16,000 , tires balanced twice at 5*. Still vibrates, but not all the time. Is it time to visit Goodyear store.
I too had some vib's I couldn't get rid of, even after three balances on what I can only guess was "normal" balancing systems. Someone posted a tip of looking for a place with a GSP 9700. I found one, had them do it, and viola - no more vibs. It's been about 7K since I had it done.
Brakes- HP makes two sets for the 300M cost is $3400 or $4000 depending on set. They are four pistion, lsotted and cross drilled.
Sound deadening- The worst areas are the suspension linkage points, areas around the wheel wells, under the shifter, and fire wall.
The elastromeric material I could not find at Home Depot (I live in Phoenix) and since it never snows here they do not carry it. Roofing supply stores do carry it, and it comes in many different styles. The cost was about 20% of what Dynomat costs per sq. ft.. It is not the same sound deadening effect, but I would say it is about 80% as effective as the Dynomat materal.
Most of the sound deadening I achevied was from the out side with foam and spray sound deadener. I have to up date some of my imformation on this subject, but if you go to my web site, you will get the idea. http://homestead.com/chrysler300m/chrysler300m.html .
As for the work involved taking out all the seats is easy. the center console and fire wall items, can get quite involved. It depends on how much time you want to put into it. Plan at least 4 days.
Beach/Xshoman/Jgoodson/Sugar: I tried to have my dealer take a look at this and he couldn't make it click. I asked him if it might be the fuel pump. He kind of gave me one of those 'oh-you're-just-a-girl-and-I-really-don't-think- you-know-what-you're-talking-about' kind of looks that I also get at the hardware store. Oh well, I guess if the car quits running or something falls off of it, I'll just forget about it. Thanks anyway.
Thanks for all the advice so far on the 6 cars I am looking at. To the person who mentioned the Audi A6, that's the car I would love, but it's just too pricey. As I am a big guy and want the room for both my family and for business, the 300M will get strong consideration.
After round 2 of research, the top 3 I will lokely consider are: 1. Chrysler 300M 2. Infiniti I30 3. Volkswagen Passat
The Acura and Audi may be a bit too small, and the Maxima just not special enough.
The noise you are hearing is probably the "Leak Detector Pump" which lives on the passenger side of the fuel tank.
It will only do the clicking thing for about 30 seconds after a starting the engine when the coolant, oil, and air temperatures are the same which translates to the car sitting overnight.
My Y2K made the noise, the dealer replaced the pump, and the noise went away. Getting the dealer to hear it will probably mean leaving the car with them overnight.
I used to take Deegan/I-87 home from NYC. In the Bronx, it was tough to find an open stretch, but past McLean avenue all the way to my exit (Tuckahoe road) it was a nice run.
Sprain parkway is nice. I used to live in a townhouse complex off Sprain. Sometimes I would go for a quick ride between Tuckahoe road exit and Jackson avenue exit and back. Off hours of course.
Saw Mill has a bunch of good curves that my M liked. I heard some stories about people in Porsches going too fast and smaking up to death on the Saw Mill. Apparently there is a nasty unpredictable turn with a big rock on the opposite side.
But nothing can beat the Bronx River Parkway in the Scarsdale area - way too narrow and twisty. One time I chased a 3-series on the Bronx parkway and did not let him get too far away... wait, that was in my Grand Prix GTP, so it is for a different discussion.
you say the maxima just isn't special enough, the i30 is a maxima!!! and what is so special about a vw??? quit complicating your life go to the nearest 5* dealer and lay down some cash ))
Got lucky on the Deegan. I'm a few exits past the TappanZee bridge so I get a good run from the tolls. I did get to drive Sugar to Hilton Head last year & running through North & South Carolina was an absolute blast! The car begs to be driven. & the dream vehicles on your profile are great!
Hell, ruski, I thought the cold war was over! Time to get some new dream vehicles. Then again, with the state of the Soviet economy, you may be able to buy one of your dream vehicles for the price of a good usrd 300M. Fuel costs might be a bit of a problem though!
I have a fully-loaded 1999 300M with only 7500 miles on it. It's been a great car, but there are two issues that have keep creeping up, one mystifying and one annoying.
First, I notice that intermittently the car idles very roughtly while idling in Drive. It always happens when the car is warmed up. It's very noticeable. The car shakes and rolls a little, as if a large truck was coming by causing a small earthquake.
Second, my driver's-side power seat has an almost constant squeak. I've almost gotten used to it.
I too have noticed it from time to time, it is only intermittent though. Could be any number of things from bad tank of gas, computer making adjustments etc,....Unless it gets worse I'm not going to bother with it.
You should check the tach when its idling rough. If the tach shows about 500rpm, I find that if you tap the accelerator for just a second and then release, the idle will pick up to 600 - 700 and stay there, smoothing out the idle.
I got it this morning. AS soon as PhotoPoints site is back up, I'll post a few pics of it. Looks good. The instruction are clear, & simple. Also this module seems to work with most Chrysler/Dodge cars. LHS, 300M, Concord, Sebring, Stratus, & all Intrepid's even the RT. We'll se how it works on the 300M this weekend.
Comments
I think in all fairness we should split the donut as my hint helped you solve the puzzle- :-)
http://www.jetchip.com
1-800-535-1161
Will post the results, & details after the install
Tandee
T
Sorry Easy, Racey wins... besides, you'll have another chance. You need 5 points to win the prize.
Thanks again D, that was a good one.
T
-MMCCCM
so i have 2 of the 5 pts. i'm on a roll
I've been following discussions here on the board for about a month or so. Looking to buy a new car in the April-May timeframe, and am looking at the near-luxo sport sedan category.
I have NEVER been a Chrysler fan since driving rented K-Cars in the 80s, and I am 39 with a wife and soon-to-be 2 year old boy. I work in sales and marketing in the electronics industry and use my car in business as well as for personal use. I live in SoCal between LA and SD and currently drive a first edition Infiniti G20 (fantastic car BTW).
I started a list of cars to consider -- it's about 22 models long, of which 6 are on the A-list. My requirements are 4-door, quality, good image, enjoyable to drive, $30K tops.
Here's my top 6 that I intend to look at:
Acura TL (possibly S-type)
Audi A4
Chrysler 300M
Infiniti I30
Nissan Maxima
Volkswagen Passat
I'd be interested in any and all comments, and yes, i do realize that the 300M is the largest of the bunch.
Thanx,
Bob in RSM, CA
red7700- Does the rattle sound like something is loose behind the gauges over any type of road? Mine does but I have only looked around; there is no way I'm going to take anything apart. Sure, it's very annoying but with the dealers I've been dealing with they'd probably blame everything on me and say that I knocked something loose.
tandee- Just yesterday, my son riding in back said that somewhere in the rear passenger's side there was a clicking over bumps. I can only imagine what it is now.
fuzzywuzzy- Thanks, I'll look near the wipers sometime this week for the screws.
All- I know I've already asked this but what is the 2001 build quality like? Do they seem any better put together? I know they have nicer features but what are they built like? Any quieter? Better-fitting, softer materials? I was very strangely thinking about possibly replacing my 2000 with a 2001 if I continue to have problems but after looking at some recent posts the rattles and creaks, etc. still seem to be there. For a little over 30 grand you can't expect it to be perfect but a little better would be nice. I just can't seem to find any other car that really competes with the 300M.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1172860&a=9559248
I had 2 Taurus SHOs before that, a '94 V-6 and a '98 V-8.
I too am in sales, and sometimes drive from Buffalo to Detroit or Phila. non-stop.
The 300M eats the miles in style and comfort. I am actually looking forward to an early-morning jaunt to Pittsburgh tomorrow.
Your 6 are all good cars, but I like the 300M for size, style comfort and amenities. It swallows an unbelievable amount of cargo when I do trade shows, and the '99 averaged 23MPG on regular over 69,000 miles. It never let me down on the road, and I had no problems with it in the 30 months I drove it.
With the deals on now, $30K should get you one nicely loaded.
Good luck!
Of the cars you list, the Acura, Audi, and VW strike me as worthy of consideration. Test drive your candidates and see what YOU think. If you haven't tried a Chrysler since the 80's K-cars, though, your mental database on Chrysler is too moldy to be of any value for the decision you are about to make.
other internal noise paranoia. I put two empty
cd cases in the back seat on top of each other
and blame everything I hear on them.
-MMCCCM
The only problem is that there are a lot of crossroads with stop signs there. And some people don't stop before they cross. Or they think they can wing it.
I recall hearing it after I listened specifically for it after someone else posted about the fuel pump, but I don't notice any more (usually have the radio on). I'll try listening tomorrow.
VHT Brake caliper paint. Racefan9 has the same paint, & can give you part#'s. I had my can for a while before I used it. I bought it at an auto store.
It's not too hard to do the sound deading. The seats are easy to remove(4 bolts on each)The side panels, & door sills pop off, or have 1 screw in them. The back seat unhooks, & comes right out. You don't need to take the center console out, but I would guess it would be a more complete job if it was. I didn't take mine out. Then the carpet pulls up. I taped it to the console to hold it up, while I applied the Dynamat. My results were not great. Maybe I didn't use enough, or maybe I put it in wrong. I didn't see any difference in noise reduction. The only difference I noticed was the bass in the stereo was a little louder.
autoaccessory.com
have to call it in
1-888-734-8734
page P35 from their catalog $4.99
racing red, bright blue, real orange, gloss black, cast aluminum, bright yellow, satin blac
rmsbob - same advice, good luck & order from factory. I did test the Acura, fun to drive but interior felt small & the styling was ho-hum unless you add the body kit, chrome wheels & spoiler (options that totaled approx $4,000). Also tested an A6 Audi but that's a little out of the price range. Go get that M!
exshoman & tandee - I've got the same clicking at cold startup; of course, I could never duplicate the sound @ the dealer & they could find nothing wrong. Same with rear driver window; it stuck once, dealer couldn't duplicate & would not even look at it.
ruski - love the driving stories. I had a nice run last Saturday eve coming North on I87 (Deegan NY state thruway combo) going home from Brooklyn. Doing about 75 or 80 & came up on a Lexus GS400 & a GMC Jimmy. Passed the Jimmy first, then the GS4. Both hopped on. I took Sugar to 95. GS4 passed me. @ 100 the Jimmy tries to pass. Ain't gonna happen. Took Sugar to 110 (almost to the limit)& held off the Jimmy but never caught the GS4 again. He played with me for a while then really opened it up & move easily away from Sugar while we were @ 110! I don't have the PHP/PHG. Some fun driving!
fuzzywuzzy - love that 152mph M/Viper run! True, its not totally safe but if I had the PHP, I might be tempted at least once.
All - keep those good driving stories coming. That is why you bought your M's, isn't it?
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm is where I found it. They have a search engine by location.
Sound deadening- The worst areas are the suspension linkage points, areas around the wheel wells, under the shifter, and fire wall.
The elastromeric material I could not find at Home Depot (I live in Phoenix) and since it never snows here they do not carry it. Roofing supply stores do carry it, and it comes in many different styles. The cost was about 20% of what Dynomat costs per sq. ft.. It is not the same sound deadening effect, but I would say it is about 80% as effective as the Dynomat materal.
Most of the sound deadening I achevied was from the out side with foam and spray sound deadener. I have to up date some of my imformation on this subject, but if you go to my web site, you will get the idea. http://homestead.com/chrysler300m/chrysler300m.html .
As for the work involved taking out all the seats is easy. the center console and fire wall items, can get quite involved. It depends on how much time you want to put into it. Plan at least 4 days.
I tried to have my dealer take a look at this and he couldn't make it click. I asked him if it might be the fuel pump. He kind of gave me one of those 'oh-you're-just-a-girl-and-I-really-don't-think- you-know-what-you're-talking-about' kind of looks that I also get at the hardware store. Oh well, I guess if the car quits running or something falls off of it, I'll just forget about it. Thanks anyway.
After round 2 of research, the top 3 I will lokely consider are:
1. Chrysler 300M
2. Infiniti I30
3. Volkswagen Passat
The Acura and Audi may be a bit too small, and the Maxima just not special enough.
Test driving this coming weekend...should be fun.
- Bob
The noise you are hearing is probably the "Leak Detector Pump" which lives on the passenger side of the fuel tank.
It will only do the clicking thing for about 30 seconds after a starting the engine when the coolant, oil, and air temperatures are the same which translates to the car sitting overnight.
My Y2K made the noise, the dealer replaced the pump, and the noise went away. Getting the dealer to hear it will probably mean leaving the car with them overnight.
Good luck with it.
Erik V.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=564996741
Beach15 - looks like a good car. Know any gamblers in KC?
Sprain parkway is nice. I used to live in a townhouse complex off Sprain. Sometimes I would go for a quick ride between Tuckahoe road exit and Jackson avenue exit and back. Off hours of course.
Saw Mill has a bunch of good curves that my M liked. I heard some stories about people in Porsches going too fast and smaking up to death on the Saw Mill. Apparently there is a nasty unpredictable turn with a big rock on the opposite side.
But nothing can beat the Bronx River Parkway in the Scarsdale area - way too narrow and twisty. One time I chased a 3-series on the Bronx parkway and did not let him get too far away... wait, that was in my Grand Prix GTP, so it is for a different discussion.
Time to get some new dream vehicles. Then again, with the state of the Soviet economy, you may be able to buy one of your dream vehicles for the price of a good usrd 300M. Fuel costs might be a bit of a problem though!
First, I notice that intermittently the car idles very roughtly while idling in Drive. It always happens when the car is warmed up. It's very noticeable. The car shakes and rolls a little, as if a large truck was coming by causing a small earthquake.
Second, my driver's-side power seat has an almost constant squeak. I've almost gotten used to it.
Any others out there with these problems?
Keith
You should check the tach when its idling rough. If the tach shows about 500rpm, I find that if you tap the accelerator for just a second and then release, the idle will pick up to 600 - 700 and stay there, smoothing out the idle.
Try it--it works for me.
Easyrider300M