u still interested or no go? i can paint the lights you got right now the same as my oval ones for a lot less than what you would of bought them at....
300michael -bummer , sounds like some Tony Stewart loving Grand Prix driver did not like what you did to the M .Stay away from HD !!!!
Beach - , the wood wheel would look good in your car . Unless you really know what your looking for most people will not see the diffrence in the wood and plastic.
Sdmike- wow 2 bucks for a nut !!! and 30 for one switch , as for the radio controls working .unless you have a 2001 or 2 model it would be very hard to do this as it needs the newer body controller. and a 2001 body controller wont fit a 2000 or 99 car.
BassLink cutout. You need to take a look in the Infinity Manual to find the section that covers the servo light. It turns green at maximum excursion. ...."When properly tuned, the SERVO LED should light momentarily during high-level bass transients. Avoid adjustments that cause the LED to remain lit for extenced periods."...
If it is cutting out when properly tuned, then the speaker coil may be sticking at some point in its travel, a very dangerous condition. Good luck and good listening. I have had mine for a week now and have the gain just above the halfway mark. Silver
Hello! I am seriously considering purchasing a new 300M this weekend. What are the thoughts on PHG option? $560 MSRP is it worth it? I live in Tulsa, Oklahoma and none of the 300's on the dealers lots have the PHG. I would be interested in hearing the pros and the cons!
Also, does Chrysler make 300M's with the rear spoiler anymore?? I never see a 300 on the road with a spoiler anymore? I thought they look sharp with them!
For people that have recently purchased a new 300, how "wheel and deal" friendly was your dealer? Just curious.....
yes, the phg is definately worth it. i had a 2001 w/o phg, and now i have one with it, and i definately wouldn't go back. of course if you havent even driven a phg, then you wouldnt know what your missing, so it probably wouldnt be that big a deal. test drive both, and not just a drive up the road and back, i mean TEST drive that sob..
I got a 2001 300M with the PHG 2 months ago. Pluses: -significantly improved handling over the already good 'base' suspension (with PHG-perhaps THE best handling large front-drive car I have ever driven) -improved steering response -better brakes with larger discs -a good deal as it would cost more $$ to add these upgrades later Minuses -a bit firmer ride (though not harsh-it is still MUCH smoother riding & quieter than my 99 Dodge Grand Caravan) -a bit more road noise, particularly on rougher pavement (Have I left anything out guys?- My understanding is that the latest 300M's now all come with Michelins rather than those Goodyear tires previously supplied with the base suspension) I am glad I finally went with the PHG. Bottom line is drive both for yourself back-to-back on the same roads. Some dealer somewhere has cars with both suspensions to test drive. Only you can decide if the PHG is right for you.
Got tired of my wife complaining about her mommy-mobile (minivan). Now my M has company in the driveway, a ruby red Sebring Coupe with most everything. Drove it a bit; nice car. Actually a more convenient suburban car than the M, which is a little ponderous in the cul-de-sacs. From point A to point B the M has no equal at anywhere near the price, but from the house to the convenience store, the Sebring is real nice.
On 2001 Ms, 2 different dealers in L-ville area are advertising them for $26.3K to $26.6K. The one for $26.6K had PHP too. You should not go above $27K this late in the model year. Ottowkr says the 2002s are rolling out now and somebody posted that they saw one at a dealer. On spoilers, they are after market. I have never seen one on the lot with one on it. I got mine from dawn-ent.com, but the dealer has one too, and several others are available elsewere. Don't go more than $300 on one.
I was just about to ask you if the stereo controls could be wired in some how, but now that I just read your other post, I guess not.
So, now I have to ask, is the Dark Slate Gray the same color as the Agate? I had an extra 2001 300M brochure and cut certain parts out of it, like the steering wheel and the wood dash trim. I then laid the steering wheel cut-out over the wheel in the 2000 brochure. It did look good, and the difference in the wood trim wasn't all that noticable. However, from the looks of the brochure picture, the dark slate gray was slightly darker. Not by much, but when around the 2000's airbag center, it looked a little funny. I put the cut-out of the center 2001 steering wheel, and it did look better all one color and wasn't noticeable against the rest of the interior.
That's the only problem I'm thinking about now. It doesn't look all that bad with the 2000 Agate center and the wood/leather wheel, but it does look nicer with the 2001+ airbag center with the wing and matching color. I still don't know if we're going to do this but I have to get the prices and part numbers first.
Anyone- Do you know if the 2001's have a different leather on the steering wheel? I thought they did and it looks a little different in pictures. I just don't want to end up with the same crappy stuff we have now.
I think I would be more interested in getting your old ones. Do you think you could fix that chip you were talking about with some kind of epoxy or fill and cover it up with a new coat of 2000 Stone White? If so the price you mentioned is more than fair to me.
Welcome back and the M looks hot PHASE. Black on black with some chrome is NICE. Our window tint legal limit here in KY is 40% and I tinted mine 5%, hehe. It's like trying to see through blacktop. It's not very easy to see out of at night either but it's definitely worth it. Not only does it look great, but it also keeps the sun out COMPLETELY which makes sitting on that leather on a sunny day not bad at all.
TECHSAN - I have the stock 2001 spoiler that I bought painted from the dealer. I think that spoiler looks the best out of all (including aftermarket) because it follows the body lines of the car so well, but that is just my opinion.
The description of the PHG by jona57 is accurate. I have always owned sports cars, so a non-PHG 300M was never a serious option for me, but I did drive one on my first test drive. I didn't push it hard enough to be able to comment on its handling near the limits, but it had a floatiness that I didn't particularly like, reminiscent for me of my dad's Lincoln Town Cars (though not as extreme). The PHG definitely gives you more of a buttoned-down feeling, but you pay something of a price with thumpiness over tar strips and other surface irregularities.
If you're changing from a domestic luxury car, the standard suspension may suit you. However, if you're a performance-oriented driver, I'd definitely urge you to go with the PHG. If you're really undecided, however, you should definitely take both versions out for a test drive before making your purchase.
Before purchasing my 99 with PHG I test drove both PHG and Non. I found the greatest difference to be the brakes. Mboom makes the best recommendation - Drive both before purchasing. When I purchased I had to hunt around to find a PHG to test drive - but it was worth it. I am very happy with my choice.
I was going to order my "M" from them and have it shipped here to Tucson, but one of the local dealers agreed to order my "M" at the invoice price. Three weeks later DC offered a $1500 rebate and I got that too(the car took five weeks to arrive)!
sweeeeeeet M pal. If Big Red was black, that's what she'd look like.
I second the comment that silverbullet made about the basslink. The units have a servo that helps make sure you don't blow them up (grin). You probably have the gain or level set too high, so at high volumes and bass levels the servo kicks in to save the unit's butt. The directions are pretty specific on how to set it up.
Now..silver...no wonder your wife won't ride with you. My gain is set at about 10% and I still can't see in my rear view mirrors when it's thumpin. If you're at over 50%....wow!
In my opinion, getting the PHG is the best $500 you can spend on your M. Not only do you get the better brakes and suspension, you get V-rated tires and DC removes the 118MPH speed limiter (not that I've ever driven that fast...ahem).
Now, for pricing. Go read the information at this site:
The key to getting the best deal is to understand what the car costs the dealer, and make them a reasonable offer over that amount. I bought my fully loaded '01 (MSRP of $34,580) for $29,600, including a $2,000 rebate. The invoice on the car is about $32,100, so subtracting the rebate you get a final cost of $30,100. Therefore I paid $500 less than invoice. How? Well you need to get to know something called Dealer Holdback. A DC dealer gets approximatly 3% back after they sell the car. This was about $1,000 on my car, so their TRUE cost was invoice less holdback less rebate....or about $29,100 in my case. I gave them a $500 profit over that amount.
After reading the information at that site, go to www.carsdirect.com and price out a car for yourself. It provides an excellent bargaining chip at the dealer, and it will show you what rebates are available in your area. I just ran my car through carsdirect again and saw that there is a $2,500 rebate in effect. Carsdirect is selling my car (sticker $34,580) for $30,173 after rebate right now. Not too bad, since invoice is listed at $32,123.
I would also wait a few weeks until the 2002s start showing up on your dealer's lots. They will have a lot more incentive to take low margins on the '01 cars.
PHG was my one "must have" option, and I love how the car handles on mountain curves and city corners. I'm completely thrilled by the car, and I have no complaints about ride harshness. I assume non-PHG M's offer a more comfortable ride, but I've never driven one. I've had it up to about 135 once for kicks, and it was very steady.
Does anyone know whether the new clearer tail light lens covers will fit the 99M? Are they just on the 01? I like the clearer plastic look and wonder what they cost and if replacing the less clear lens is feasible-- given limited shop/mechanical skills. I looked in OEM parts site and couldn't get a listing for the lens covers. Hopefully its not a whole unit replacement. Anyone got a price and know how much is self-doable?
The tail lights are one unit (reflectors & lens). I think the center red bulb is different between the two styles so slight rewiring might be involved to do it properly. Removal is easy -- just unscrew the three plastic nuts in the trunk and pull out.
Too bad there aren't two backup bulbs in each '01 taillight; there's certainly room enough.
Maybe I'll try this Zaino stuff y'all er talking about. Click on the link to see the shine on Big Red's finish....why, you can almost see Big Red's reflection in the finish!...
(with apologies to Mike R. for sub-atomically manipulating his image!.....)
this is what i'm doing too, they will fit fine, someone else did it too. no modifications at all just that wiring which is cake. here are the part numbers:
4805592AD
4805593AD
right and left tailights. from the dealer they are $169, and my dealer brought it down to $152.10. however i just ordered them last night from http://www.oem-car-parts.com/, i got them for $139.20. this is the best price i could find new, you can goto www.copartfinder.com, he will sell them off a wrecked 2001 for $75 a piece. i was gonna do that, but the fact that he is in CA, and only accepts money order kinda got to me. also when he picked up the phone, you would think he would be like...hi, and then business name, but he goes "who are you and what do want"
so i didnt go with that guy, for sake of mind i ordered it new. good luck and keep us informed.
Whoops! I did it again...My bad! Thanks for calling me out on that adjustment, Mike. I re-checked with both eyes open and here is my setting position for each control:
Gain 9 o'clock position Crossover 11 o'clock position Bass Boost 11 o'clock position
That gain position would be about 25% of the rotation range of a 270 degree pot. I really have only made coarse adjustments and will have to do some serious listening to fine tune it. Someone pointed out that some radio stations seem to be bass-heavy compared with CD's. I noticed that before the BassLink was installed. Could be bass boost at the station to please all the boom-box crowd. Phases-sorry about the "50%" goof.
There is a "bass boost" in radio stations, but the reason is that low frequency is what carries FM radio waves, so by boosting the low end of the music, they increase quality and range of their station.
I took the lettering off the doors this last weekend, now I'm going to stop by the dealership and get some info on the gears and also order up a 300M badge found on the trunk, I'd like to fit it over the keyhole and so I'm going to need to dremel a little bit in the center of it and I don't want to learn on the one that's on the car. So, next up, lettering off the trunk with just the 300M over the keyhole.
BTW, my 300 just rolled over 50K on my birthday. Heh, yup, no longer a complete youngin'. I'm 21 now. But still loving it and still running great. Maybe next time I'll talk of a tangle I go in with a Vette' on 35E here, that was a rush and a half.
I just went to my dealer yesterday and bought that half bra that you have on yours. I was going to go with the invisable mask, but they want an arm and a leg for it here in Canada, so I opted for your type instead. My M has less than 2000 Miles (2500 Km.) and I was washing it on Monday and I see all these little rock chips on the hood, and I have never been on a gravel road, I am not impressed with the DC paint. There must be a better way of hardening the paint, especially in the hood area. I am not too concerned with the plastic, but I am bloody mad about my hood. Has anyone else had this problem? and if so what did you do?
I've got a ton of chips on my hood (dark garnet red), and I just plan to spend some time soon touching them up, using a finer artist's brush than the brush that comes in the touchup paint bottle. They don't show much then, unless one is really looking for them. Colorado uses a lot of gravel in winters, and with the sloping hoods I think it's just a fact of life, unless you use a bra. Personally I prefer touching up chips to the look of black vinyl always draped across the car, but to each his own.
Doc, would we really see the front of the M&M reflected on the car behind it? Sorry.
DenverM: Saturday morning I pack the family in the M and head your way. We'll spend Sat night in Durango then head to Denver to drop my neice in Genessee, then up to Estes. Can't wait to give the car a bit of a work out on the twisty-turnies. The current plan has us on interstates only from Holbrook (AZ) to Gallup (NM). What is gas going for in your neighborhood?
We'll after reading from I think beach15 I stoped at my local dealer about my melted steering wheel. Granted all I do all day is call on dealers but my territory is nowhere near where I live. Luckily the service mngr at my closest 5* knows who I am and what I do. I didn't even show him the wheel, he said no problem, then even asked me, "you know they put a piece of plastic that looks like wood at the top of the new steering wheels, you want me to get you one of those instead?" ahhhhhh, YEAH. So as long as the SRS unit matches up to the new wheel I should have a wood wheel in a week or so.
I just got my warped steering wheel replaced under warranty. I ended up with a plastic wheel, not leather wrapped. This is the same wheel that the low Concords and Intrepids use. But guess what? I like it a lot better for some reason!
picky, picky, picky.......maybe its a GHOST of the Red M&M's dead twin brother?!.....hey whaddaya want?....its the demented thought that counts, right?.....muwahahahahahahaha...chuckle, chortle.......heheh... Doc (without wine at this time....)
As stated earlier the 01 tail light fit the contours really good. The wireing harness just snaps into your existing one. The 01 lights use all 3157 bulbs, unlike the 99-00 that use 194s for the center running light. The 01 lights operate the same as the previous lamps, the center light does not have the brake light function, unless you rewire it as i did.
I've been searching for prices of that new wood/leather wheel for the past two days but still don't have any idea. Our dealer was similar in the way that he offered to just replace our melted one. Now that I know for sure (I always thought so) that it's just fake wood like what we have now, I see no reason why it would cost anymore than the all leather one they were going to get us. I printed out your post and showed my wife, and she's going to call them again tomorrow. We've now been there four times and they know her pretty well so hopefully they'll order us the new wheel instead of another crappy one like what we already have.
What color is your dealer going to get your's in? I know you have the Lt. Pearl Beige interior but I'm not sure which of the new 01' colors would match better, the Lt. Taupe or the Sandstone. We have the Agate so we'd have to get the Dark Slate Gray which seems to be almost identical. I hope it looks nice and goes well with our fake rosewood type stuff. Yours should look great because you already have the burl type trim which is what's on the new wheel.
Thanks very much, your post helped me a lot! If we both end up with the new wheels soon, we'll have to post pics and maybe set a trend for others on this board with 99's & 00's!
I just filled up at a Coastal station in Denver for $1.19/gal. for regular. Sounds like you're just zipping through Denver, but if you think you might stop, I could meet you somewhere. You'll have fun driving up at Estes Park!
I *know* I'll have fun on Hwy 36. I lived 30+ years in Colorado: Denver, Aurora, Lakewood, Westminster, Golden, Estes Park. While attending CU I lived 3 years in Estes, so I've got about 1000 round trips under my belt on that road. When the M was only a few months old I had an enjoyable drive there at night in the rain. Went the speed limit the whole way but could easily have gone much faster, even with the wet.
We'll be spending one or two days in Denver next week, probably Wed/Thur. I'll be trying to get together with friends, some in Lakewood (6th/Wadsworth), one in Westminster (120th/I-25), one near Arapahoe Rd/Parker Rd. Since that pretty well covers the whole city, I'll try to convince them all to meet me someplace central (like the Rockbottom, perhaps). Hopefully I'll have more details before I get there!
First off, my sincere thanks to all that posted a response to my post, your information has been invaulable!
I found a 300 today that I exactly wanted here in Tulsa (thanks for the Mark Roberts info!). The dealer wants invoice minus $200 for it. It really has everything EXCEPT the PHG package. The dealer let me drive it home tonight and I really like it! The craftsmanship on the vehicle seems excellent, I love the power under the hood and the Infinity system is very nice!
If they can give me what I want on my trade in, I should be in the same club as you all! Thanks again for your input and suggestions, definately helped in my buying decision! I will keep you all updated!
I've used this stuff in the past on my other cars/motorcycles. After discovering the first stone ding on my almost-new 300M yesterday, I'm motivated to get a kit to install ASAP. Can anyone suggest a web source for quality, reasonably priced precut kits? Thanks.
Comments
sorry to hear about your scoop... i know you worked many a hour on that... sucks how people can be..
someone kicked in the entire drivers side of my Lt.'s car last week, broke off his side mirrors, and broke his windshield.
id run someone over for that.......
Beach - , the wood wheel would look good in your car . Unless you really know what your looking for most people will not see the diffrence in the wood and plastic.
Sdmike- wow 2 bucks for a nut !!! and 30 for one switch , as for the radio controls working .unless you have a 2001 or 2 model it would be very hard to do this as it needs the newer body controller. and a 2001 body controller wont fit a 2000 or 99 car.
BassLink cutout. You need to take a look in the Infinity Manual to find the section that covers the servo light. It turns green at maximum excursion. ...."When properly tuned, the SERVO LED should light momentarily during high-level bass transients. Avoid adjustments that cause the LED to remain lit for extenced periods."...
If it is cutting out when properly tuned, then the speaker coil may be sticking at some point in its travel, a very dangerous condition. Good luck and good listening. I have had mine for a week now and have the gain just above the halfway mark.
Silver
Also, does Chrysler make 300M's with the rear spoiler anymore?? I never see a 300 on the road with a spoiler anymore? I thought they look sharp with them!
For people that have recently purchased a new 300, how "wheel and deal" friendly was your dealer? Just curious.....
Thanks for the help in advance!
Todd M.
Tulsa, OK
I got a 2001 300M with the PHG 2 months ago. Pluses:
-significantly improved handling over the already good 'base' suspension (with PHG-perhaps THE best handling large front-drive car I have ever driven)
-improved steering response
-better brakes with larger discs
-a good deal as it would cost more $$ to add these upgrades later
Minuses
-a bit firmer ride (though not harsh-it is still MUCH smoother riding & quieter than my 99 Dodge Grand Caravan)
-a bit more road noise, particularly on rougher pavement
(Have I left anything out guys?- My understanding is that the latest 300M's now all come with Michelins rather than those Goodyear tires previously supplied with the base suspension)
I am glad I finally went with the PHG.
Bottom line is drive both for yourself back-to-back on the same roads. Some dealer somewhere has cars with both suspensions to test drive. Only you can decide if the PHG is right for you.
Jon A
So, now I have to ask, is the Dark Slate Gray the same color as the Agate? I had an extra 2001 300M brochure and cut certain parts out of it, like the steering wheel and the wood dash trim. I then laid the steering wheel cut-out over the wheel in the 2000 brochure. It did look good, and the difference in the wood trim wasn't all that noticable. However, from the looks of the brochure picture, the dark slate gray was slightly darker. Not by much, but when around the 2000's airbag center, it looked a little funny. I put the cut-out of the center 2001 steering wheel, and it did look better all one color and wasn't noticeable against the rest of the interior.
That's the only problem I'm thinking about now. It doesn't look all that bad with the 2000 Agate center and the wood/leather wheel, but it does look nicer with the 2001+ airbag center with the wing and matching color. I still don't know if we're going to do this but I have to get the prices and part numbers first.
Anyone- Do you know if the 2001's have a different leather on the steering wheel? I thought they did and it looks a little different in pictures. I just don't want to end up with the same crappy stuff we have now.
Steering Wheel
Door Panel Screws
TECHSAN - I have the stock 2001 spoiler that I bought painted from the dealer. I think that spoiler looks the best out of all (including aftermarket) because it follows the body lines of the car so well, but that is just my opinion.
http://members.cardomain.com/herrmdogg
HerrmDogg
If you're changing from a domestic luxury car, the standard suspension may suit you. However, if you're a performance-oriented driver, I'd definitely urge you to go with the PHG. If you're really undecided, however, you should definitely take both versions out for a test drive before making your purchase.
DC cars at invoice
I was going to order my "M" from them and have it shipped here to Tucson, but one of the local dealers agreed to order my "M" at the invoice price. Three weeks later DC offered a $1500 rebate and I got that too(the car took five weeks to arrive)!
I second the comment that silverbullet made about the basslink. The units have a servo that helps make sure you don't blow them up (grin). You probably have the gain or level set too high, so at high volumes and bass levels the servo kicks in to save the unit's butt. The directions are pretty specific on how to set it up.
Now..silver...no wonder your wife won't ride with you. My gain is set at about 10% and I still can't see in my rear view mirrors when it's thumpin. If you're at over 50%....wow!
Now, for pricing. Go read the information at this site:
http://www.carbuyingtips.com
The key to getting the best deal is to understand what the car costs the dealer, and make them a reasonable offer over that amount. I bought my fully loaded '01 (MSRP of $34,580) for $29,600, including a $2,000 rebate. The invoice on the car is about $32,100, so subtracting the rebate you get a final cost of $30,100. Therefore I paid $500 less than invoice. How? Well you need to get to know something called Dealer Holdback. A DC dealer gets approximatly 3% back after they sell the car. This was about $1,000 on my car, so their TRUE cost was invoice less holdback less rebate....or about $29,100 in my case. I gave them a $500 profit over that amount.
After reading the information at that site, go to www.carsdirect.com and price out a car for yourself. It provides an excellent bargaining chip at the dealer, and it will show you what rebates are available in your area. I just ran my car through carsdirect again and saw that there is a $2,500 rebate in effect. Carsdirect is selling my car (sticker $34,580) for $30,173 after rebate right now. Not too bad, since invoice is listed at $32,123.
I would also wait a few weeks until the 2002s start showing up on your dealer's lots. They will have a lot more incentive to take low margins on the '01 cars.
Hope this helps.
-M
Too bad there aren't two backup bulbs in each '01 taillight; there's certainly room enough.
(with apologies to Mike R. for sub-atomically manipulating his image!.....)
the Doctor of Pixology, Glenn
work email: glenn.beye@ny.frb.org
http://www.shutterfly.com/view/pictures.jsp?aid=67b0de21b305f7f7c48b
4805592AD
4805593AD
right and left tailights. from the dealer they are $169, and my dealer brought it down to $152.10. however i just ordered them last night from http://www.oem-car-parts.com/, i got them for $139.20. this is the best price i could find new, you can goto www.copartfinder.com, he will sell them off a wrecked 2001 for $75 a piece. i was gonna do that, but the fact that he is in CA, and only accepts money order kinda got to me. also when he picked up the phone, you would think he would be like...hi, and then business name, but he goes "who are you and what do want"
so i didnt go with that guy, for sake of mind i ordered it new. good luck and keep us informed.
http://www.shutterfly.com/my/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b315ab3a455c
Thanks for calling me out on that adjustment, Mike. I re-checked with both eyes open and here is my setting position for each control:
Gain 9 o'clock position
Crossover 11 o'clock position
Bass Boost 11 o'clock position
That gain position would be about 25% of the rotation range of a 270 degree pot. I really have only made coarse adjustments and will have to do some serious listening to fine tune it. Someone pointed out that some radio stations seem to be bass-heavy compared with CD's. I noticed that before the BassLink was installed. Could be bass boost at the station to please all the boom-box crowd.
Phases-sorry about the "50%" goof.
Silver
try sharp flames tho, save those round teardrop flames for the wussies...
I took the lettering off the doors this last weekend, now I'm going to stop by the dealership and get some info on the gears and also order up a 300M badge found on the trunk, I'd like to fit it over the keyhole and so I'm going to need to dremel a little bit in the center of it and I don't want to learn on the one that's on the car.
BTW, my 300 just rolled over 50K on my birthday. Heh, yup, no longer a complete youngin'. I'm 21 now. But still loving it and still running great. Maybe next time I'll talk of a tangle I go in with a Vette' on 35E here, that was a rush and a half.
Maybe I see you tonight in the chatroom....
Doc
-M
DenverM: Saturday morning I pack the family in the M and head your way. We'll spend Sat night in Durango then head to Denver to drop my neice in Genessee, then up to Estes. Can't wait to give the car a bit of a work out on the twisty-turnies. The current plan has us on interstates only from Holbrook (AZ) to Gallup (NM). What is gas going for in your neighborhood?
Igor
Doc (without wine at this time....)
What color is your dealer going to get your's in? I know you have the Lt. Pearl Beige interior but I'm not sure which of the new 01' colors would match better, the Lt. Taupe or the Sandstone. We have the Agate so we'd have to get the Dark Slate Gray which seems to be almost identical. I hope it looks nice and goes well with our fake rosewood type stuff. Yours should look great because you already have the burl type trim which is what's on the new wheel.
Thanks very much, your post helped me a lot! If we both end up with the new wheels soon, we'll have to post pics and maybe set a trend for others on this board with 99's & 00's!
www.300mclub.org
We'll be spending one or two days in Denver next week, probably Wed/Thur. I'll be trying to get together with friends, some in Lakewood (6th/Wadsworth), one in Westminster (120th/I-25), one near Arapahoe Rd/Parker Rd. Since that pretty well covers the whole city, I'll try to convince them all to meet me someplace central (like the Rockbottom, perhaps). Hopefully I'll have more details before I get there!
Igor
I found a 300 today that I exactly wanted here in Tulsa (thanks for the Mark Roberts info!). The dealer wants invoice minus $200 for it. It really has everything EXCEPT the PHG package. The dealer let me drive it home tonight and I really like it! The craftsmanship on the vehicle seems excellent, I love the power under the hood and the Infinity system is very nice!
If they can give me what I want on my trade in, I should be in the same club as you all! Thanks again for your input and suggestions, definately helped in my buying decision! I will keep you all updated!
Todd M.
Tulsa, OK