the jewel lights are the 2001 rear tail lenses---they are translucent and give the appearance a ruby-like jewel with see through depth appearance----I like them better than the 99 or 00 lenses.
Bought the MOPAR 300M parts catalog (eBay). It has the parts numbers and exploded views. Let me know if you guys need anything in particular. Just be forewarned, I travel alot and can only check this board 1-2 times a week so be patient. Weekends are best! I'll list my e-mail and 800 # on the club site so you can break my shoes there. I'll be happy to fax over stuff to my M-buddies!
I need to remind you that due to copyright issues you cannot use the "img src" tags to display pictures in your messages unless you actually own the pictures.
We are always happy to have you post a link to a picture on another site that you want folks to see (as long as there is no contrary TOS with the host site). But unless you own the picture, please do not use the img src tags in your post. Otherwise, the entire message will have to be removed
try changing the outside temp sensor . It is located on the bottom of the right side bumper beam under your front fascia. if you crawl under and look up you will see it. It is held in by a small plastic push pin.
300michael- that inside temp sensor will not cause the outside temp to display wrong. as for the plastic clips , dealers parts dept needs to make money too. Most auto makers use these type of clips to hold underhood insulation ,so dont think it is just us.
pat is just slackin us as normal. i think she has to do at least once a week or something, she hasnt done it for awhile so she was prolly just getting bored.
oh man i owe you one big time, both lights for $145 shipped. there practically new the car barely has 2k miles on it. thanks man, saved me a bundle. i'm still kinda shady because there used but...i think i'll be ok. hell i may even buy some interior stuff and all that. thanks!
this is so weird, we got telepathic capabilities or something, i was thinking the same thing last night. i pulled the whole dash out, even the HUGE piece under the windshield, and gauages, trim, all taht. about to make a molding and then wrap it in metal, to get a look of something liek this...
ignore the rest, just that center console piece, the whole thing is gonna be one piece. i'm gonna mold it all together. upto the 3central vents convering clock. anyway when u was doing this i thougth it would be trick it mold in some cool switches, (cockpit missle switch? lol) somewhere by cupholder or shift boot for lights. shouldn't be that hard either, we already have a passage underneath the shift boot...
when did u call? i called this morning and told him not to sell anything i am buying a ton from the car. headrests, dash, gloveboc, center console rest, back bumper, tailights, and back bottom seat. i'm planning on messing up quite a bit and there only so many times you can keep wrappig that back seat. i gotta admit it, i can't sew for beans.
I know it's been a while since I posted my experiences with Borla, so I thought I'd share my experiences for those who are considering a Borla exhaust. After purchasing my Borla, I had my local shop do the installation. Here are my experiences:
-Borla advertised their system as being packaged with a high-flow cleanable air filter. The K&N-type filter they sent does not fit the 300M. After consulting with Borla and with their filter manufacturer (S&B Filters), we concluded that S&B does not make a filter that fits the 300M. Steve, the customer service rep at Borla, was very apologetic and acknowledged that something was amiss in their system specifications. He has squared things away with me. I bought a K&N from a local parts store to make up for the one that I thought I was getting from Borla.
-After installation, the Borla system would periodically whack into the rear cross-member from which the rear hanger strap was suspended. After determining that the portion of the system leading to the rear muffler was about 1" too long, I had it shortened. This solved the fit problem and the exhaust no longer knocks against the bottom of the M when traversing railroad tracks or rough pavement.
-I'm obviously too much of a pansy, because I found the low- to mid-range resonance of the Borla to be uncomfortably loud in the 2100 to 2600 rpm range. I first tried a Ziebart sound barrier spray, which helped some, but still didn't bring the exhaust resonance within my comfort zone. I contacted Borla, which sent me a single annular venturi that had to be tack-welded into the first exhaust section. This very effectively cut down on the amount of resonance inside the car and does not have any noticeable effect on performance. I still get more of a rumble at highway speeds than I did from the stock system, but it isn't aggravating, nor does it interfere with my ability to enjoy the stereo, as was previously the case.
I haven't run any instrumented acceleration tests, but the combination of the Borla and the K&N filter seem to have dramatically increased the responsiveness of my M. My seat-of-the-pants guess is that it's cut a good second from my 0-60, maybe more. The car clearly jumps off the line much more readily. Fuel mileage is up one to two m.p.g. One thing I would note is that the $40 K&N seemed to offer as much of a performance increase as the $550 Borla, so, if money is tight, the K&N is a good way to go.
Finally, I'd suggest that anyone thinking about buying the Borla strongly consider ordering it with the annular venturi already welded it. The guy I took it to was able to do it in about a half-hour, but you may as well save yourself the trouble. The resonance from the Borla really is a bit much without this modification.
if you do a true dual setup, run a pipe from each converter, this will cost you less than 200 bucks. regular piping and labor will be around $160, gains will be much much better than any collector/hujo or borla system. you may want to consider this, i y piped it right after the muffler before, and called it "duals"....no way. now that i got in this wreck i have some money frmo insurance and am doing a real setup. of course the mufflers are $150 a piece (stainless), so that will run up the bill. but check into this and you can easily sell you borla for 300+ on ebay.
at that dealer in tiny Roanoke, IL. The grill is fine, just different, can't say I like it any better or worse than the 99-01 grill. The gray grill bars themselves are a much darker gray and look black from a distance, so it sorta looks like a big square hole under the Chrysler emblem. The B pillars and mirrors are glossy black, that might be a carryover from the 01, I dunno. I like the wheels (non PHG or P or whatever it's called now). There was a 99 LHS parked next to it so it was easy to compare the 02 wheels to the older model. Sticker with luxury group, side bags, hole in the roof, 5 chrome wheels, and in dash cd changer was just over $32K.
This guy in Roanoke is amazing, he sells ONE HUNDRED Vipers a year, and puts a coat on Zaino on them! We picked up her 2002 (yes 2002) PT Cruiser this morning, it was the 10th or 11th he's delivered already. He brings in so much sales tax, the village paid for 1/2 of the concrete parking lot.
A lot of the posters who have done intake and exhaust, spark plug and/or TB modifications have made claims for improved mileage, improved 0-60, low speed response, etc. These claims are encouraging, but seem to be "seat of the pants", subjective ones that are short on controlled testing. In the spirit of Noble Sacrifice, I hereby volunteer the Silver Bullet for a M Club Modification Project. At NO COST (**FREE**) to the Club, my M can be systematically modified and tested for the mutual benefit of all M owners. After the most beneficial mods have been identified, I will (once again) allow the use of the Silver Bullet for a Long Term Test of these modifications. I know this sounds too good to be true, but I would like to give something back to the M owners on this board. Awaiting your response, I remain: Sincerely trying to Help(sniff), Silver Bullet :>)
If I had a red or black 300M, there would be no choice for me except to use Zaino for the shine. However, my 300M is silver and a slight addition to the shine would be negligible. THEREFORE this question: if Zaino is only applied a couple of times, is it as rainproof and washproof as NuFinish or Brand-X? Please understand that when I was a young buck, I washed and waxed my cars every week or two, but at my age (just retired) I don't have the same motivations because there are too many things competing for my time--thus my question. Mike S.
That sounds like a great project! I might suggest starting with the easiest mods first with track testing after each mod. This would eval the best bag-for-the-buck. A dream list to be considered: 1. K&N filter 2. Intake/throttle body (e.g. the 68mm mod) 3. Dual exhausts (true rather than cat-back) 4. Performance gear (e.g. ProwlerPro set) 5. Supercharger (if a workable setup can be found) I'm sure others will have more suggestions. Best of luck, and keep us posted.
For what it's worth, I have been a regular user of Meguire's Gold Class liquid on my cars for years. I have been very pleased with the shine, particularly after 2 coats. It goes on & buffs off easily and lasts about 6 mo. in typical Indiana weather. I have tried NuFinish & found it to be lacking in shine. It also seems a bit abrasive for clear-coat finishes-I used it on an older non-clearcoat Chevy van and my applicator took on the color of the paint. The lower-priced generics are a waste-low gloss and don't last. A few years ago Zymol was very popular, and it still seems a good product. I have not tried Zaino but I plan to soon based upon its good reviews here. With the time & effort it takes to properly wax a car (e.g. clean all the bugs & tar off first), it pays to invest a few extra dollars in a good product. A corollary of that old home care adage about the most expensive product being cheap paint definitely applies to car polish!
..just hit your website from the link you posted. SHEESH!, and I thought avalanche was the mod-man! Nice look, though, definitely. Not one to mess with 'mods' and such things, I can certainly appreciate the effort, time and --ka-ching: $$$$ that you must have put into your M. What are the bluish things on either side of the ex-console? Me old eyes'er failing, hermm.... BTW, your membership package is on its way! Should get it by Monday/Tuesday! To all, have a great weekend!
the Doctor
I just wanted to thank you for the compliments and for having the appreciation of what it takes to truly customize a vehicle. AVA and I are from a different breed I suppose ... we like to take a $35,000 car and completely render it far from stock. Everyone has "their thing" and this is ours. In answer to your question about what those things are near the console in the pics ... those are remotes, one for the monitor in the center dash and the other is for the DVD player. The stock cup holder proved to be a good remote holder. I will be posting more pics on my website in a few weeks when I get my car back after the new air cylinders are in so I can have the ability to park on dogleg again.
I am not sure if you remember that email that I sent you about that rattle coming from the passenger rear tire area, but I jacked the car up and took the tires off, here's what I found: (long sentence) -the 5 bolt thingies (ha) that you put the tire on and then put the nuts on..when I move it around there is play there. I checked the driver rear and there isn't any movement. I don't know the possible danger, if any, that I could be in driving around with this..but I don't wanna be on the news about an accident. I never recalled hearing that sound until I took my car to this Muffler joint to check out duals and to get my brakes done. If you know what could be wrong or what I need, please let me know. I figure if I take it to the dealership I will get screwed hard. Also, anyone else who may know what is going on..feel free to respond.
Av: I think they may be having trouble with their site--I get error message---I used it a week ago and yes, they have 300M parts--everything thats in the parts catalalogue---I need a passenger side mirror and they list it for $144 where normally its about $180+ so you can save a lot.
Herrmdogg: in you pic of interior, the glove box areaand area to right of radio appears to be all chewed up--did you rip out that whole area to install your video stuff or is that a flaw in the picture.
Zaino: when is Sal changing over the formula to make it one step--I have been holding up my order till the new formula comes out---
In response to your question about my interior looking "chewed up", that is DEFINITELY just a photo flaw or reflection. Every square INCH of my car is immaculate.
Thanks for the info though, now I see that I need to take a better pic of that area.
how difficult is it to replace outside temp sensor--(is that the white cylindrical piece under the facia?)-- do you have to remove facia---also how hard to replace interior temp sensor---one last question--is climate control chip reprogrammable to adjust for noticeable errors---today I noticed that overhead read 66 when actual temp outside was about 60--when temp control was adjusted to 75, the upper vents were actually blowing cold--the heat wouldnt come on till about 79---any ideas?--I just had the blend door actuator replaced and the climate control head unit replaced. These 5* are for the birds to return the car to me thinking they fixed the problem---this all started when I just had a slight problem with slow to update overhead console---atc was fine back then---they had reprogrammed the chip and that is when problems seemed to start--could the reprogramming have caused all my problems with atc?
I have a gold 300M. The shine obtained from the use of Zaino is by far the best. As for durability, a couple of coats of #2 are at least as durable as any other product I have previously used. Of course, much is determined by the product you use to wash your car after it is waxed. Maguirs products were my products of choice for washing and paint care until I tried Zaino. After switching to Zaino I continued to use Maguirs wash concentrate for a while with good results. However, just switched over to Zaino #7 wash and it is superior to the Maguirs product. Another word, Zaino is easier to remove than many other products on the market including Maguirs and Mothers. I hope this is helpful.
P.S. I thought when you retire you have more time on your hands.
My experience with that other board is terrible. The pop-up advertising windows are such an annoyance. The categories are nice - but don't compensate for the pop-ups.
Well I have spent the last few days evaluating my new system. I am not sure why, but my new Hugo style duals are way and I mean way loauder than my old Borla. Maybe I used more performance oriented type mufflers than others here. It kinda sounds like a stock LT-1 camaro my friend owns. A lot of my friends love the new sound and look. I am not to sure about it. I have gotton a few strange looks from people "what the heck did that guy do to that 4-door luxury car?" I might need to tone it down some how. What do you guys/gals think?
you are getting twice the amount of flow from that dynomax ultraflow ss muffler, if you look on the dynomax.com website you will see the flow charts, our dynomax super turbo muff is designed with flow channels your muff is a straight through design like the magnaflow. the magnaflow muffs in aluminum and stainless are designed the same.
Haven't posted messages recently, but have been keeping an eye on this board. Picked up our new factory ordered M in late May. It now has 3000 miles on it. When I tried to start it yesterday, Saturday, it turned over, but stumbled, and just wouldn't catch. Left it alone and ten minutes later it started and was fine all day. This morning it did the same thing. Naturally I'll bring it in to the 5* tomorrow, but sure hope it set a code since it seems to be intermittent. The only other trouble I've had was a seat memory problem that they had to reset the computer for. That was last week. Can I tell if a code's been set before I bring it in? Has anyone had a similar problem or have any input?
Guesswho1 - Soda cans do not rust because they are solid aluminum. "Aluminized" is just a coating that is typically applied to a ferrous metal that can rust.
My point is that aluminized construction will just take longer to start to rust than say galvanized steel. Give me stainless steel.
My installer said it would be easy to put another small in-line muffler into the Hujo design if it was too loud for me. My guess is that you can do the same.
so how long will aluminized last? stock m's are all aluminized. sure stainless steel is superior, and will out last the chasis. i don't care, my last three DC products never saw replacement tires.
anyone have experience with solenoids for shaved doors, or even trunk lids, power lock, windows, whatever, just need to ask a few questions regarding the relay. thanks.
Comments
and exploded views. Let me know if you guys need anything in particular.
Just be forewarned, I travel alot and can only check this board 1-2 times
a week so be patient. Weekends are best! I'll list my e-mail and 800 # on
the club site so you can break my shoes there. I'll be happy to fax over
stuff to my M-buddies!
It is the weekend - - Zaino time, if it does not rain.
We are always happy to have you post a link to a picture on another site that you want folks to see (as long as there is no contrary TOS with the host site). But unless you own the picture, please do not use the img src tags in your post. Otherwise, the entire message will have to be removed
Thanks.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
300michael- that inside temp sensor will not cause the outside temp to display wrong. as for the plastic clips , dealers parts dept needs to make money too. Most auto makers use these type of clips to hold underhood insulation ,so dont think it is just us.
ignore the rest, just that center console piece, the whole thing is gonna be one piece. i'm gonna mold it all together. upto the 3central vents convering clock. anyway when u was doing this i thougth it would be trick it mold in some cool switches, (cockpit missle switch? lol) somewhere by cupholder or shift boot for lights. shouldn't be that hard either, we already have a passage underneath the shift boot...
-Borla advertised their system as being packaged with a high-flow cleanable air filter. The K&N-type filter they sent does not fit the 300M. After consulting with Borla and with their filter manufacturer (S&B Filters), we concluded that S&B does not make a filter that fits the 300M. Steve, the customer service rep at Borla, was very apologetic and acknowledged that something was amiss in their system specifications. He has squared things away with me. I bought a K&N from a local parts store to make up for the one that I thought I was getting from Borla.
-After installation, the Borla system would periodically whack into the rear cross-member from which the rear hanger strap was suspended. After determining that the portion of the system leading to the rear muffler was about 1" too long, I had it shortened. This solved the fit problem and the exhaust no longer knocks against the bottom of the M when traversing railroad tracks or rough pavement.
-I'm obviously too much of a pansy, because I found the low- to mid-range resonance of the Borla to be uncomfortably loud in the 2100 to 2600 rpm range. I first tried a Ziebart sound barrier spray, which helped some, but still didn't bring the exhaust resonance within my comfort zone. I contacted Borla, which sent me a single annular venturi that had to be tack-welded into the first exhaust section. This very effectively cut down on the amount of resonance inside the car and does not have any noticeable effect on performance. I still get more of a rumble at highway speeds than I did from the stock system, but it isn't aggravating, nor does it interfere with my ability to enjoy the stereo, as was previously the case.
I haven't run any instrumented acceleration tests, but the combination of the Borla and the K&N filter seem to have dramatically increased the responsiveness of my M. My seat-of-the-pants guess is that it's cut a good second from my 0-60, maybe more. The car clearly jumps off the line much more readily. Fuel mileage is up one to two m.p.g. One thing I would note is that the $40 K&N seemed to offer as much of a performance increase as the $550 Borla, so, if money is tight, the K&N is a good way to go.
Finally, I'd suggest that anyone thinking about buying the Borla strongly consider ordering it with the annular venturi already welded it. The guy I took it to was able to do it in about a half-hour, but you may as well save yourself the trouble. The resonance from the Borla really is a bit much without this modification.
This guy in Roanoke is amazing, he sells ONE HUNDRED Vipers a year, and puts a coat on Zaino on them! We picked up her 2002 (yes 2002) PT Cruiser this morning, it was the 10th or 11th he's delivered already. He brings in so much sales tax, the village paid for 1/2 of the concrete parking lot.
Awaiting your response, I remain:
Sincerely trying to Help(sniff),
Silver Bullet :>)
Each of our cars are in a way a mod testing project and the results are displayed here each week.
If you really want the serious mods, you gotta take it to Av's Body Shop in Cumberland, MD.
That sounds like a great project! I might suggest starting with the easiest mods first with track testing after each mod. This would eval the best bag-for-the-buck. A dream list to be considered:
1. K&N filter
2. Intake/throttle body (e.g. the 68mm mod)
3. Dual exhausts (true rather than cat-back)
4. Performance gear (e.g. ProwlerPro set)
5. Supercharger (if a workable setup can be found)
I'm sure others will have more suggestions.
Best of luck, and keep us posted.
Jon
For what it's worth, I have been a regular user of Meguire's Gold Class liquid on my cars for years. I have been very pleased with the shine, particularly after 2 coats. It goes on & buffs off easily and lasts about 6 mo. in typical Indiana weather. I have tried NuFinish & found it to be lacking in shine. It also seems a bit abrasive for clear-coat finishes-I used it on an older non-clearcoat Chevy van and my applicator took on the color of the paint. The lower-priced generics are a waste-low gloss and don't last. A few years ago Zymol was very popular, and it still seems a good product. I have not tried Zaino but I plan to soon based upon its good reviews here. With the time & effort it takes to properly wax a car (e.g. clean all the bugs & tar off first), it pays to invest a few extra dollars in a good product. A corollary of that old home care adage about the most expensive product being cheap paint definitely applies to car polish!
In post # 6972 your wrote:
..just hit your website from the link you posted. SHEESH!, and I thought avalanche was the mod-man! Nice look, though, definitely. Not one to mess with 'mods' and such things, I can certainly appreciate the effort, time and --ka-ching: $$$$ that you must have put into your M. What are the bluish things on either side of the ex-console? Me old eyes'er failing, hermm.... BTW, your membership package is on its way! Should get it by Monday/Tuesday! To all, have a great weekend!
the Doctor
I just wanted to thank you for the compliments and for having the appreciation of what it takes to truly customize a vehicle. AVA and I are from a different breed I suppose ... we like to take a $35,000 car and completely render it far from stock. Everyone has "their thing" and this is ours. In answer to your question about what those things are near the console in the pics ... those are remotes, one for the monitor in the center dash and the other is for the DVD player. The stock cup holder proved to be a good remote holder. I will be posting more pics on my website in a few weeks when I get my car back after the new air cylinders are in so I can have the ability to park on dogleg again.
http://members.cardomain.com/herrmdogg
Thanks again for the compliments.
-the 5 bolt thingies (ha) that you put the tire on and then put the nuts on..when I move it around there is play there. I checked the driver rear and there isn't any movement. I don't know the possible danger, if any, that I could be in driving around with this..but I don't wanna be on the news about an accident.
I never recalled hearing that sound until I took my car to this Muffler joint to check out duals and to get my brakes done.
If you know what could be wrong or what I need, please let me know. I figure if I take it to the dealership I will get screwed hard.
Also, anyone else who may know what is going on..feel free to respond.
traley
Herrmdogg: in you pic of interior, the glove box areaand area to right of radio appears to be all chewed up--did you rip out that whole area to install your video stuff or is that a flaw in the picture.
Zaino: when is Sal changing over the formula to make it one step--I have been holding up my order till the new formula comes out---
http://www.radartest.com http://www.300mclub.org/rendezvous.htm
Thanks for the info though, now I see that I need to take a better pic of that area.
http://members.cardomain.com/herrmdogg
HerrmDogg
(other people's money) to be used for my benefit. I hope you didn't take it seriously.
I think AV and 99_300m figured it out. Can't fool them!
I do wish we had an independent testing capability, cause I take any claims from vendors hawking their miracle products with a grain of salt.
P.S. I thought when you retire you have more time on your hands.
http://www.dynomax.com/ultrafloss.stm
http://www.dynomax.com/superturbo.stm
the dynomax super turbo is all aluminized. when is the last time you saw a rusted coke/pop/soda can?
http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/buzz/b072701.htm
My point is that aluminized construction will just take longer to start to rust than say galvanized steel. Give me stainless steel.
-M
Thanks!