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Chrysler 300M



  • toms99toms99 Posts: 252
    I think there are a couple of issues here that the spreadheet obviously does not cover:

    - the Final Drive ratio is 3.66, but the top overall gear ratio (at the transaxle) is 2.52. I don't think the engine is designed to hit the redline (7000 rpm) at the top overall gear ratio of 2.52.

    - I ommitted lots of physics like friction, rolling friction, expansion of tires when heated, etc. In short, this is just a guideline.

    If anyone can point out some flaw in the math or logic, let me know!
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,094
    Hello. I live in the Boston area. The dealer I purchased the car from retired, so I'm going to take it to the closest dealer to me. THis dealer actually treated me well during my attempt to purchase the M there, until trade in time. Their first offer was insulting and second and third offers weren't much better. The other dealer offered me the true trade-in value right off the bat, so they got the sale.
    I read through some of the prior posts and was reminded of the Input Speed Sensor problem, so hopefully the dealer will be able to take care of it PDQ.
    I know I'm over-reacting, but I'm just not used to problems with cars (thank you, Japan, Inc.). If my M starts to fall apart, adios domestics for many more years. I'm sure it'll be fine and I'll have several more trouble free years with my M, though.
    Good luck, Bob Lutz. I hope GM doesn't bring you down...

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Don't worry, it's either the input or output speed sensor. It should be a 30 minute fix for these guys. It seems that it's a real common problem. However, if everything else with your M is rosey don't stress. You've had a wonderful experience with the car, and it should keep on performing well for you. Consumer Report's ratings of the 99 and 00 repair histories are very very good overall.
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 358
    If it's the speed sensor, can you ask them if any mechanic could just plug a new one in, or does it require some special DC tool/electronics to install? I'm starting to think it might not be a bad idea to carry the spare part, at least on long road trips away from big towns.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    I've replaced things like O2 sensors in cars for years without the need for anything except the right sized wrench, some pliars/snips (I've had wires that woudln't come unplugged) and possibly some electrical tape to make amends. My guess is that this is similar. Plug and play. Great idea on keeping an extra around!

  • Hey guys, what's up? I just thought everyone might like to know (probably not) that I went to 2 car shows this weekend and won at both of them. That makes "ON DUBZ" 3 for 3, so I'm batting a thousand on the show circuit. The show yesterday was a top 60 with about a 300+ car turnout and today's was a top 200 with about a 600+ turnout (then the one from last weekend for best modified vechicle 1958-current), so I'm happy. How is everyone else doing this year on car shows ?!?!?!? Anyone else take their M's to shows? Unfortunately I missed about every show I had planned to be at due to the fact that my air suspension install took WAY LONGER than expected. =*( See you guys later !!!


  • CONGRATS MAN!!!!! good god almighty... woopin @ss arent ya???
  • Ric, the drag on a car increases with the square of the car speed. ie, if a certain drag force is measured at 80 mph, then it will not be doubled at 160 mph, but will be four times the drag at 80 mph. This plus rolling resistance and tires flying apart limit most cars reaching anywhere near the redline in top gear. Exceptions are drag racing rear axles with 4.56 or 5.11 ratios. I have been a passenger in a Porsche Carrera at the Nurburgring in Germany where the driver had to back off the throttle on a slight downhill to avoid redline. This was in 1960 mind you, so we probably weren't doing more than 125 mph. I also rode in a Jag XK150-S (3 SU carburetors) on the same course at 240 kph on the long straight. That's about 150 mph per my circular sliderule/pencil holder. I'll probably never have another drive at that speed again, but 41 years later I still remember it.

    Hermdogg-way to go, Dude!

  • While reading a consumer's magazine's rating of vehicles recently, I noticed that the classification of the 300M was"near luxury." I figured this was similar to being pregnant with "near pregnant" not being a possibility. Any thoughts why the 300M, with all of its equipment, is not considered in the luxury class? The only thing I could think of is that the 300Ms don't cost enough to be considered full luxery cars. Mike_sp1
  • Mike, I would say there are other differences besides price. The car is very sport sedan oriented, with luxury features as a bonus. Most luxury cars have quieter interiors, less road noise, higher grades of leather (vat dyed, versus surface spray), and a softer ride. Things like perforated leather seat backs with ventilation for cooling your Armani-swathed back and On-Star are missing at our price range. The M has great convenience features and road manners, adequate power--that's what I want, along with ample room.

  • I seem to be leaking fluid on my 2000 at about 28,000 miles. Anybody else had this problem?
  • mrv2mrv2 Posts: 4
    My 2000 was leaking tranny fluid two weeks ago with about 24,000 miles. Dealer said a rock probably hit the trans cooler line - but they covered it under warrantee anyway. Are you sure yours is power steering fluid?
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    A few years ago some had this problem. The transmission fluid was being forced out the fill tube. Do you see where it is comming from?
  • I am having trouble with the feature that lets you go to a Post by the number. I wanted to go back to post #7879. It was the picture of the speedometer going about 140. I wanted to print it.
    Any one else having trouble with it.
  • I agree about Chrysler wanting to make the owners of Prowlers feel special by suggestion premium gas. I plan to keep using 87 octane. I wonder if they have the computer set up for a different fuel and air mixture on the Prowler than on the 300M it seems that the horsepower and torque figures would be different. They are exactly the same. This just seems strange to me. It makes me wonder if I get a 300 special if I could run 87 octane like I do now. Or I wonder if Prowler owners could just run 87 octane and save some money. Just something to think about. Also where do you think the shift points are different in the Prowler. Do you think it lets you rev to a higher RPM like 6850? 7000? How high do you think you red line could be if the computer didn't make it up shift at 6450?
  • I'm still discovering the gadgets on my 300M and am puzzled by one I discovered today. The lights on the bass/treble slide bars light up when the headlights are on as they should and don't when the headlights are off as they should. I was sitting in the car today waiting on my wife and listening to the radio with the key in the "accessory" position. I happened to notice that the bass/treble lights flicked on and my first thought was the flashing dashboard light problem. Then I noticed that the lights would cycle on and off - on about 15 seconds - off about 40 seconds. I satisfied myself that this was a regular cycle, and therefore was supposed to do that, but my question is why?
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    The problem is that the system doesn't display the ACTUAL message numbers, which counts all of the messages posted, but rather the VISIBLE messages. The difference is the number of messages that have been deleted. If you hold your cursor over the "8505" of your message and look at the link path..usually displayed at the bottom of your browser'll see that what looks like 8505 is really message 8935. A serious pain.
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 358
    each message posted here has an "absolute" number, and a relative number. The relative number changes as other messages are deleted by the poster or by Edmunds, so there is never a gap in numbers. To see the absolute number of a post, hold your mouse cursor over the blue relative number of a post, and then look at the bottom status line of your browser to see the absolute number. For example, your post with relative # 8505 has an absolute number of 8935. The "Go To" feature searches for absolute numbers, not relative numbers. The pic is at absolute # 8294. If you want to print it, I could send you a high-res version . . . .
  • Do you like the G-Tech? I saw where they are about $140. Do you think they are worth it? Would you recommend it? I have been thinking about purchasing one. Also can you tell me more about the ABS intake? How much did it help your performance? How much did it cost? How hard is it to install? Wher can you purchase one? My performance upgrades consist of a K&N filter charger, Borla exhaust, and Michelin Pilot XGTZ4s
  • Thanks for the info. I am not to computer savvy.
    Yes I would like the high resolution version.
  • als2als2 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I live in Tucson,AZ.
  • Thanks for the info.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    jgoodson -
    My '01 M with the upgraded infinity system (and basslink) doesn't do what you describe. When I turn my key forward to the accessory position, all of my radio, climate control and overhead computer lights go on. My odometer also illuminates. My bass/mid/treble control lights stay on and don't cycle off.
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 358
    This will print an 8x10 at 120 dpi, which is not optimum resolution but should be halfway decent. It's about 200k:
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Another relatively simple and inexpensive upgrade is to replace your stock plugs with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. The part number is #4428. They're about $6 each. If you strip those little torx bolts that hold the plug covers on you can get them from your dealer for $.35 each...part number #6505121-AA
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    You pushed your M to 140mph with only 18 miles on the odo? Yikes! How the HELL did you take the picture. I'd be holding on for dear life! :)
  • denvermdenverm Posts: 358
    The odometer is actually at 18874. I don't know why the last three digits aren't as bright. Same for the autostick numbers in the tach (you can see that the car is in fourth, but those numbers aren't as bright as PRND). Must be some quirk of the angle of the LCD's to the camera lens. I had done some low speed tests to get the camera set up, had it sitting in my lap, and then held it up for as little time as possible to snap a shot. Had to try three times or so before I got one that worked (kinda hard to hold it steady!). And I still think it only looks like 132 or 133.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    You couldn't see the last three digits because you were nearing the speed of light. lol
  • I am not sure what happened. I printed the picture but it is to big I only got the tack and about a 1/2 of the speedometer and it took up the whole sheet of paper.
  • Do the Bosch plugs really make a noticeable difference. I thought the M came with Platinum plugs. My nephew put a set of those in his neon and it caused some kid of problem. I can't remember what he told me. That was over a year ago .But he had to take it to the dealer and they said he should not have used them. The next time I see him I will ask him about it again.
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