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Chrysler 300M



  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Not sure if you can separate the clamshell of those lights enough to even blow the little bugger out with compressed air. Might still need to get over the mushroom. The good news is that if you force the lamp apart you can always use a soldering iron to put it back together.
  • I thought it would be about that much, I'll wait and see and maybe I will take that plunge, as I do like the concept.
  • The outside temp sensor is mounted to the front bumper beam of the car.if you look through the lower front grill on the right side you will see a wire and a black plastic sensor mounted to the bottom of the beam. As for the overhead unit ,we do not install this piece, it comes mounted to the headliner assenbly from an outside parts vendor and we just install the whole headliner unit to the car. At one time the headliner was screwed to the roof , now we glue them in.

    mikeyjohn.-the new turn signal mirrors do not light up the mirror itself ,the outer case has a bulb and lens on it. So even if you left your signal on you would not be able to see the light flash .
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    As a last ditch effort, and something I probably should have done sooner, I've disconnected the battery. Maybe it will jolt the system back into shape when re-connected.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    at There is a black one for you Rogor:) It is at the bottom. Actually the new grill starts to look pretty good, and kind of grows on you. But they should have kept the emblem in th center.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Boy, that is a completely UNLOADED 300M. Am I right? No options? The base '01 was $30,295 including destination charge. That $28,995 is a full $1,300 cheaper!! GEEZ!

  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    I still Don't like the grill. It looks like a dumb grin. On the previous models the wing broke up the grill enough to not give that impression.
  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    they just showed it on Autoweek TV
  • I've probably had more experience changing flats than most here. I've had four (4) flats since last October. All with the standard wrench, no problems at all.

    As far as cleaning the leather, I just use saddle soap.

  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    Problems solved. Disconnecting the battery got the attention of the computer or sensors and now my external temperature gauge appears to be working correctly.

    Now, here is something strange. There are four wires or bundles connected to the positive terminal at the front of the M. Two of them are large battery cables (one on each side of the little junction), and two appear to be power cables or harnesses that I'm sure go to various accessories and computers. I disconnected three of them when I disconnected my battery...all but the one that ran directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Because nothing else was connected to it (the other 3 wires), nothing on the car had power. The remotes, the clocks, the stereo, ignition, etc. Nothing. Now, when I hooked the battery back up after 3 hours a couple of things happened. First, the car wouldn't give a hint of ignition for the first minute after hooking the battery back up. I though, oh crap, I killed the starter or something. After about a minute and about 10 turns of the key it started right up. Strange.

    I was totally prepared to have to re-set everything, so I started with the clocks. After that I went for the radio stations. Much to my surprise, THEY KEPT THEIR SETTINGS! How is this possible? The clock in the radio had been dead and needed to be re-set, and nothing was connected to the battery (as best as I could tell). Yet it kept the memory. On one hand it's cool, but on the other hand, it makes me wonder that if the radio somehow had some power to it, maybe I wasn't able to reset my master computer like I had intended. Anyone have a similar experience? Did I miss a connection somewhere? I'd like to think that my computer has a virgin brain ready to be trained again with the dualies, K&N, +4 plugs. etc.

    Any ideas?
  • Some have already commented on the lack of any real performance difference for the 300M Special. Last week, when DC updated the 300M site with 2002 pricing, I decided to run through the "Build Your Own" option to see what pricing changes were in effect. When I got to the bit about incentives and clicked "continue", a pop-up window appeared offering a $50.00 debit card "...just for experiencing 300M's 255 horses first hand." That seemed to imply that the "Special" wasn't the only 300M with that rating. A recent check at the DC Web site shows that they aren't currently running that incentive (they have the "We are currently updating our incentive information..." message up now). It seems that if they were doing something to achieve some performance difference with the Special, it's not a difference in HP. It does make one wonder how (and why) the HP number changed from 253 to 255. Maybe they're measuring it differently (hello, Nissan) than before. The Special is special - just not in the areas some would like.

    BTW, I've never understood why there hasn't been a 150 mph speedometer for the 300M all along and why they're now only putting one in the Special. Seems to me it should have been part of the PHP/PHG group. Have they ever put that speedo in the export models?

    Here's some info about price changes -

    I had read somewhere that DC would be changing the sound system options in an effort to reduce costs across the product line and that is confirmed by the fact that the standard system for the 300M is CD-only, without the cassette that was standard until 2002. If you want the cassette option it is an additional $100.00. Another interesting change is the increase in the cost of the Luxury Group package - $920.00 vs. $520.00. It appears that DC is including the cost of the full size spare in the Luxury Group. The chrome wheel spare will bump up the cost to $1050.00. The cost for the LG, subtracting the cost of the spare, is $670.00. That increase, over the previous $520.00, probably reflects the addition of the tire pressure monitoring system.

    Comparing a specific configuration for both model years, including the extra $100.00 for the same sound system, the MSRP difference between 2002 and 2001 is $1050.00 with the 2002 being the lower price. The difference for base MSRP is $1300.00.
  • Since a number of you use a BassLink sub in your trunk, I am hoping that some of you will give me some ideas for wiring one. I am an old audio/HT nut and never have problems wiring a complex system in my home, but an automobile is another story. My 300M has the standard 9 speaker Infinity System. A few questions: Does the standard sound system have an amplifier in the trunk as I believe does the upgraded Infinity 11 speaker syste--therefore allowing me to tap into the speaker output wires there?? Is there a speaker wiring bulkhead connector in trunk just for a subwoofer as is found in the series 3 Beemers--yep--that's pretty unlikely? Are there any line level subwoofer outputs on the back of the radio for RCA plug connectors? Do I run the wiring harness under the carpets to the back of the radio and tap into the front L&R main speakers there and the rear L&R speakers in the trunk beneath the package tray? How do I remove the radio bezel or get to the back of the radio to tap into the speaker wiring harness if that is what is necessary? Did I ask enough questions;-) Seriously, after looking at the various wiring diagrams in the instruction booklet, I realize there are lots of possibilities depending upon the answers to the above questions. Any assistance here would be greatly appreciated. Mike_Sp1
  • I'm not sure, but the radio may have a flash memory chip that holds it's memory when power is off.
  • Don't know how it works on the 300M, but there are a few ways to maintain things like radio station presets. One way is to use a capacitor to store an electrical charge to maintain memory settings for brief periods of time (has been used in VCRs and TVs for some settings). Another method is to use a EEPROM (Electrically Eraseable Programmable Read-Only Memory), a non-volatile method to store settings. "Flash Memory", as mentioned by jgoodson, is a type of EEPROM where data is written in blocks - faster than the one byte at a time of a standard EEPROM.
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064

    2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8W-80-56, 57:

    Power Amplifier C1 (white):

    01 - 18 LG/VT Amplified Left Door Speaker (+)
    02 - 18 LB/RD Amplified Right Door Speaker (+)
    03 - 18 YL/RD Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (+)
    04 - 18 OR/RD Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (+)
    05 - 18 WT/VT Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (+) *
    06 - 18 TN/VT Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (+) *
    07 - 18 LG/BK Amplified Left Door Speaker (-)
    08 - 18 LB/BK Amplified Right Door Speaker (-)
    09 - 18 YL/BK Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (-)
    10 - 18 OR/BK Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (-)
    11 - 18 WT/DG Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (-) *
    12 - 18 TN/DG Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (-) *

    * Premium II Audio

    Power Amplifier C2 (white):
    (pins 3-10, 14-21 are offset)

    01 - 16 RD/WT Fused B(+)
    02 - 16 BK/LG Ground
    03 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12v Output (live when radio is on)
    04 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
    05 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
    06 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
    07 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
    08 -
    09 - 18 PK/RD Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (+)
    10 - 18 WT/RD Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (+)
    11 - 18 TN/RD Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (+)
    12 - 16 RD Fused B(+)
    13 - 16 BK/LG Ground
    14 -
    15 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
    16 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
    17 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)
    18 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
    19 -
    20 - 18 PK/BK Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (-)
    21 - 18 WT/BK Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (-)
    22 - 18 TN/BK Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (-)

    (pins 4-7, 15-18 are signal level input)

    Service Manual, pp. 8F-3, 8W-90-18:

    The Midline/Infinity I amp is located in the right front cowl panel next to the HVAC unit and recirculation air motor (above and in front of the right foot of the front seat passenger).

    The Infinity II amp location is located beneath the trunk liner covering the right quarter inner panel (behind the passenger rear wheel well inside the trunk).


    2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8F-4, 8W-80-60:

    Radio C1 (black):
    (tab on top)

    1 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12V Output
    2 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
    3 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
    4 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
    5 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
    6 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
    7 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)

    Radio C2 (gray):
    (tab on top)

    1 - (Radio Mute ?)
    2 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
    3 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
    4 - 20 YL/BK Day Brightness Sense (Head/Park marker lamps)
    5 - 20 OR Panel Lamps Driver (Dimmer)
    6 - 20 RD Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-ACC)
    7 - 20 PK Fused B(+) (Memory)
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    do this to get the trim panel off:

    There are no special hookups for subwoofers, etc. You'll have to tap into the correct wires. Currently I have the line level stereo outputs going into the Basslink's speaker level inputs. Here is my installation, I may turn it around so it faces back:

  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Travis ( a dealer electrical tech will be testing the removel a the speed limiter function from the ECM tomorrow. He is doing it at home, since it is not sansioned by Chrysler. Will let you know as soon as I find out. Fingers and toes crossed. Once it is done the only way to test it is on the open road (this is the hard part with it being a holiday weekend and all the police on the roads). I have another person checking on the gears. They claim he is a Transmission specialist for Chrysler Products. I talked to him about the gears for the 2.7 being used in the 3.5L transaxle, and mentioned the prowlerpro gears. He is going to check on the different gears and get back to me. At which time I will let you all know.

  • I had the engine start up lag on my 99 when I disconnected the battery. It took several turns of the key to get it to fire up. I remember too when I did it, the radio station presets stayed but the clocks and the memory seat settings were lost.
  • toms99toms99 Posts: 252
    ...ignoring such basic physics like friction and probably a dozen other things:

    Stock Wheel/Tire and Gears

    Tire Size = 225/55/17
    225mm = 8.85 inches
    X .55 =4.87 inches
    Diameter = 2(4.87)+17 = 26.74inches
    Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.74=83.976 inches
    Circumference (in feet) = 83.976 / 12 = 6.998 ft

    Stock RPM analysis at 60mph

    60mph=5280 feet per minute
    Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.998 = 754.50
    Engine RPM = 2.52 * 754.50 = 1901.34 rpm @ 60 MPH

    2002 Special Wheel/Tire and Gears

    Tire Size = 245/45/18
    245mm = 9.64 inches
    X .45 =4.34 inches
    Diameter = 2(4.34)+18 = 26.68inches
    Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.68=83.778 inches
    Circumference (in feet) = 83.778 / 12 = 6.981 ft

    Special RPM analysis at 60mph

    60mph=5280 feet per minute
    Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.981 = 756.33
    Engine RPM = 2.68 * 756.33 = 2026.96 rpm @ 60 MPH

    Is this logical, or did I mess up somewhere??
  • toms99toms99 Posts: 252
    here's the short version :

    the stock amp on the upgraded stereo is located inside the trunk on the right hand side behind the carpet, there is one tab holding the carpet.
    using speaker level inputs tap into the wires coming out of the amp:

    white/black = - left rear

    white/red = + left rear

    tan/black = - right rear

    tan/red = + right rear

    dark green/red = turn on lead

    after you hook up the speaker level inputs, connect the ground to a spot under the trunk carpet, and run a power wire to the battery
  • toms99toms99 Posts: 252
    I was ging to suggest you try this just as you posted you were going to give it a try! I think it has become standard operating procedure that when anything wierd happens disconnecting the battery is at least worth a try. Certainly can't hurt anything (as long as the car re-starts!!)
  • Mike, I talked to the trans plant rep , he was at our plant a few weeks ago and asked him about putting the 2.7 gears in the 3.5 trans. He said it cant be done.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    All -
    Thanks for your responses. I agree that there are several ways for an electronic unit to maintain it's memory even with the power disconnected, it's just that I've never seen that in a car before. Maybe one of DC's better ideas, and maybe only applies to the '01 since others here have indicated that they needed to re-set their radio stations. rscheller, do you have an '01 or a prior year? It also sounds like the starting delay isn't unusual. Great news. Thanks everyone for responding. Overall it appears that the disconnect did the trick with my problems AND probably re-set the computer for "relearing". I'll let you know if I notice any performance or mpg difference. Overall I learned a heck of a lot about the overhead console! LOL.

    otto, my 5* part guy said the 2.7 gears WOULD fit the 3.5 because it's the same tranny. Other than the gear, all the part numbers were the same in his computer for the two engine types. I guess we won't really know until someone tries it. *wink*
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Posts: 2,909
    When did they move the plant to afghanistan? Is that why the '02 is less expensive? ;)
  • Man, your experinence is why I do not mess with anything in the interior. I have not, & will never remove my own panels, light switches, over head consoles, speakers etc. I have never had luck with it in the past, & it's cost me money to fix some little tab that broke, or connector that "fell" off. I learned my lessons :)

    Glad you 300M is ok.
  • I have disconnected my battery many times, & always my radio presets have stayed. I like it that way.
  • yeah we only make 2 $ a year , but the weather is nicer .NO SNOW!!!
  • rstilprstilp Posts: 105
    OKAY!!!!!AMEN!!!!Are you a doctor or a preacher? :-) Rick (geezer300m)
  • mrv2mrv2 Posts: 4
    The inside rear view mirror on my 2000 diesn't seem to dim fast enough. When a car is behind me at night, maybe 10 car lengths back, the mirror doesn't dim at all. But it's to bright to ignore. It seems dumb to have to aim the mirror up every time that happens. Is there a sensitivity adjustment on the thing? Or would putting a piece of scotch tape over the sensor on the back cause it to dim at higher light levels? Anybody have any thoughts?
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