Chrysler 300M

kosh_2258

I sounds like the plant got feedback on the headlight snafu very quickly. People here would probably be interested in knowing how that process works and happens so quickly.

blonda

Glennbp - wow this guy is expensive! He wants $420 without the Magnaflow collector. Add cost of the collector plus $42 labor and we're talking almost $600 -- and I'm providing my own single tips. I'm sure he will do a great job, but I'm going to check with Ed Hansen muffler and go with the guy who gives me the better price. -- the difference might pay for a K&N Charger!

sdmike2

Just for reference, Ed Hanson charged me about $500 for the entire system including both mufflers, doing the cutout (and trimming them with door trim), and the dual tips with the custom staggered Y pipe. Also in that price was my original K&N filter, which I'm sure ran about $35. My *GUESS* is that if you provide your own tips the price might get down around $400 or less. Give him a buzz. It might be worth the drive.

blonda

Already called them -- she told me approximately $340. Then she found your records and said you paid about $525 so I'm thinking no more than $375. I'm sold -- made an appointment for Thursday. Sorry Gennbp I couldn't give your guy the business, but this price difference definitely would buy me a K&N Charger!

blonda

Poway Muffler said approximately $70 to install the spark plugs -- about the same as you paid at the dealer. I'll have to have someone else do them for me. It would be nice to get that done separately anyway so I can tell the power difference between those and the mufflers.

sdmike2

Nice price from Ed's joint. You'll see how little overhead he has to cover when you get there. All of the people I met there are real nice. Ed still gets his hands dirty, and his wonderful wife works the counter most of the time. You'll see that Ed's red PT Cruiser and his wife's Honda both have the same tips as me. He sold me on them. Make sure to check out the pictures in the office. He's done award winning custom exhaust systems for cars and motorcycles and some of the pictures are on the wall.

Since I didn't want a body cavity search from your receptionist I scheduled the ding guy to come by my house after he's done with your repairs. He expects to be at my place no later than 12pm, but it could be earlier depending on how tough your repairs are. He said that some of them can be done in just a couple of minutes if they're in the right place. However, he told me to expect $80 for the repair even without the need to travel out here again. We'll see if my comment about me knowing "a lot of other 300M owners that might need his services" has any impact. lol. Thanks for the lead. He seems like a nice guy.

sdmike2

There's about a million tune-up places in north county that would probably do your plugs for you cheaper than $70. I used the dealer because I figured they could more easily get the replacement torx screws if they managed to mess them up. Right now I'm looking for a Mobil 1 oil filter for my oil change & tire rotation at Big O Wednesday morning. Kragen has Mobil 1 oil on sale for under $5 per quart but they don't carry the filter. I think I got them at Autozone last time.

Oh, if you want a hand with the aircharger let me know. Glenn helped me, and it's easier with two sets of hands.

blonda

Did he tell you his ex wife works in RPQ? He's kinda chatty.

blonda

Thanks for reminding me...I need to get my wheels rotated at Discount Tire next week too. At this point I may just need to take a day off for all this car stuff. (can't you tell my boss is out of town!)

blonda

Carries the Mobile 1 filters.

blonda

SDMike/Glennbp - I want to check out how your's sound and the meet next weekend. That's one "mod" I think I'll have to slip in unnoticed from my husband. He think's I'm crazy spending $$ on the exhaust, but is starting to warm up to it -- same with the wood trim. So some day he'll notice this charger in the engine and I'll say..."that old thing? It's been there forever"! lol

Anyone ever test for smog with the charger yet??? Since I have a 99 I think I'm up for a smog maybe next year. I'd sure hate to have to be the guinea pig on that.

sdmike2

Yeah, he told me. At the orthodontist office next to the high school. Surprised he didn't give me her name and social security number. lol

sdmike2

I haven't gotten smogged, and I don't think Glenn has either. When you look at the system it's hard to imagine there being enough changes to cause problems. The rebreather hose is really the only emissions component attached to the intake, and the Aircharger has a spot for it to re-attach. That reminds me, I need to get a slightly shorter rebreather hose. If it's only a couple bucks I'll get you and glenn each one too. The stock one is just a hair too long and gets a slight kink in it when attached. As for hiding it from your hubby...the only problem I think you'll have is expalining why there is a big box in the garage with three intake boxes in it. Maybe you can keep that hidden in your trunk.

Yeah, I can tell you're on an unofficial vacation. You and I might single-handedly move this forum to the top of the posting activity list. lol

glennbp

Hi Guys... I feel left out here! Our internet at work went down and I just got home and there must be 100 messages I haven't read. Blonda, there's no problem with not using Bill; if he wants to charge that much, he won't be doing very many dual conversions. I just liked the guy and he did a super job for me. From what I've heard Ed Hansen is a great guy also that does outstanding work AND is less expensive; heck, I'd use him too! Any help I can be with your "mods", just let me know.

Mike- So I'm driving home day before yesterday on the 15 and right next to me a huge old Lincoln and a huge SUV (Suburban, I think) decide to get intimate at 75mph! Pieces of cars flying everywhere. I avoided 99% of it, but, of course, 1 small piece bounces off my hood and leaves a nice 1/4" scratch right down to the primer. Do you know if the "Dentdevil" does paint touch-up? I don't want to have to paint the entire hood as I will probably get more dings and scratches in the future. I figure I'll need to paint the hood and front end every few years to really keep Francesca mint.
I guess we're all getting psyched about the meet! Sure hope we have more than 10 M's!!!

soonerb

The dealer parts manager with the help of the Mopar Parts specifier has determined that 04805914aa is a passenger side ballast only. The assembly complete is 04805766aa.
The 5 star dealer has put the part on "special handling". Chrysler personnel have been out & gathered the info for the plant. It appears DCX and the dealer are seamless like the 5-star commercial where the car keys never hit the ground! I hadn't really anticipated this perspective. The icing on the cake is knowing even the plant guys want to make sure the car is right! I really am OK with waiting till it is ready. After listening to the sound of the "special" exhaust (Awesome)... I'm pretty sure I would have wrecked the car on the first drive anyway!!!

No more imports for me!

sdmike2

Visit the dent guy's web sites. One one of them he goes on about how trained he is in different painting techniques and manufacturers. Although his sites focus on detailing and ding removal he might also do paint touchup. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Oh, it took me THREE HOURS to go from Lemon Grove to home yesterday. 15 was moving at about 1-2 mph. Reaching the car pool lane near the 15/163 merge was almost better than sex.

blonda

This dent guy told me his life story....he's gotten out of the detail/paint business (he used to have employees who helped)thus his new website dent devils. However, he said he'd be happy to do touch ups for me. I have a couple I want him to redo as they don't look so hot (scratches) plus the nice one the dealer gave me a few months ago. He told me to bring my touchup paint and he'll buff them out and clean them up...so yes, he probably will be happy to fix your scratch, but may want to charge his minimum $80 cost (unless Mike can use his sales skills for a "group" discount)

ottowrkr

Glad to hear things are getting moving in regards to the lamp. If it was up to me I would pack one of the many we have in the plant and have it shipped ASAP to you. But as I am just a lonely auto worker I do not have that ability. Yes that exhaust sound is so SWEET.Let us know how things go .


Kosh ,what happens is that a report is made on the missing light at the dealer and entered into the corporate computer network.Then all I have to do is enter a few details on my computer and up comes the info the dealers submit. This is how I found out about it.

jona57

I was concerned when I 1st learning about the Gen3 seatbelt issue, since I have them on my 99 GrCaravan and my 01 300M. After looking up a few things (inc. the unsafebelt web site), I find it hard to believe people could commonly "elbow open" these belts. In fact, my main concern with them is that my wife and I (both healthy and fit '40-ish' adults) sometimes have difficulty opening the buckle on the driver's seatbelt in the GC. We have NEVER had an inadvertent belt unlatching (adults or children passengers). Belts are unlatched because someone unlatched them- or never put the belt on in the first place.
I'm no blind DC supporter, but the fact that they are changing some vehicles to gen4 belts is NO evidence of admission of a defect. This could be motivated by misguided publicity, or it may just be a simple design change for cost or styling reasons.
As far as these belts "failing a standard industry test", I say it's a BS test!!! The Gen3 belt will open when hit in a certain way with a 30mm steel ball- SO WHAT. I'll start worrying the next time I have 30mm steel balls flying around my interior.
There are WAY more important vehicle safety issues than this. (e.g. master cyl (brake) failures on some early 90's minivans)
LET'S GET REAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jon

sdmike2

I found the mobil 1 stuff at autozone as expected (boy that escondido one is a hole) and made an appointment at the Big O near our meeting place to get the oil done and tires rotated. The guy running the place told me that on the back of Albertsons receipts is a coupon for a $9.99 oil change and rotation, which isn't much more than the labor cost for the work. If you guys are in the market for an oil change and rotation you might look there.

Second, I went to the car wash/detailer at PQ Blvd and Carmel Mtn. Road and got a $99 quote to buff all of the minor scratches and swirl marks off Big Red. They did a quarter panel for me last month and the difference is amazing. I though Big Red shined BEFORE the work. They have some cream called "swirl gone" or some such nonsense that is made for this. Upon closer inspection we discovered friggin sap speckles all over my hood and roof from the tree I parked under yesterday. Sooooo....it's going to cost me an extra $40 or so to have the whole car clayed. Still a good deal.

Anyway, here's where I was going with this. The owner of the detail place has a business relationship with a guy that does ding repairs. I forget the name (something like Dent Doc), but he may be a lot cheaper for you. The guy we're using charges $80 for the first ding and then $25 for each additional one. The Dent Doc guy (or whatever he's called) charges $75 for the first PANEL, and $50 for each additional panel. I know you're scheduled for 5 ding repairs (yes, that guy can talk!), and if they're on one or two panels you might save yourself some $$ by going with this other guy. I don't know anything about his experience, etc., but thought I'd share it. Let me know if you want the contact information. I'll probably stay with the original guy because with one ding the price is the same for me, and I know he's experienced. Besides, if you use him he'll already have practice taking off the M door panels.

sdmike2

It appears that the color is a better match than the sample sent to me (so graciously), but I won't be sure until I see it in the daylight. I ordered it Wednesday night and it arrived today. Not bad.

300michael

sounds like another club clinic (ding and scratch removal). I have the paint. I have the dings. Are you thinking of having them come to the meet?

easyrider300m

today I started hearing a squealing from the front of the engine---at first I though it was a belt---but after checking the belts and seeing all was ok, I drove for awhile and noticed it getting louder when I turned the wheel---got out and checked the power steering fluid and sure enough it was way way down---evidently I have a leak somewhere----

I want to fill it up and wait till next week to bring it to the dealer

My question is: do I have to use any special fluid for this car or will any power steering fluid do---also, in other cars, I have used tranny fluid with no problem---anyone have a large manual that states what to use

I cant believe they dont tell you what fluids to use in this car in the regular manual that came with the car---they should list all the fluid types used in the car including differential etc.---my Lincoln manual was much more thorough

300michael

I just finished my intake, or I should say, I just finished redoing my intake. I had a 1.5"X 7? channel for the air comming in from the hood scoop. I was good, but not good enough. So today I welded, grinded, cut, and filed me a new one. It is now 8"X 2" and is much heaver gauge steel. It has a much more finished look and should help improve air flow I will post pictures, but the first to see it will me the members showing up at the Carlsbad Meet (nice pug, huh SDmike) I also finished my scoop lighting, and a few other surprizes.

sdmike2

My manual says NOT to use automatic transmission fluid, but it's not specific about the power steering fluid to use. It just says "see the dealer for approved fluid types".

sdmike2

Great plug. I'm almost ready to award you the Dr. Frankenstein award. However, Dubs (if he shows) and Glennbp still have a chance.

300michael

The fluid need to be checked with the engine off. The Service Manual states do not Auto Transmission fluid, and do not overfill.
Use onl Mopar Power steering Fluid or an eqivalent.

sdmike2

I found mention of a power steering fluid problem on some 99 Ms, and the fix was to drain and replace with a "better" grade of product. That indicates to me that there IS a difference in power steering fluids. My guess is if you go to the local automotive store and buy a high performance synthetic product it'll do the trick. To be safe maybe you should call the dealer and let us know. )

easyrider300m

I have 30k on my M and regularly check my fluids--I think I may have checked the steering fluid about 3,000 miles ago and it was fine---I never felt it made much of a difference in brand of fluid for the steering ( unlike the tranny fluid which should be the recommended type)-- I would guess I have a leak that would have to be repaired--- I doubt just using a better quality fluid would solve a leak issue---I'll have to look at the lines and look for drips tomorrow morning---

at first I dreaded the worst when I heard the noise---I thought it was a bearing in either engine or else an accesory--I feel a little better knowing its just something with the steering pump or lines---

kosh_2258

According to the 2002 Service Manual the power steering system requires ATF+4 Automatic Trans Fluid (MOPAR of course).

videoman1

Well, we finally had some nice weather today and I was able to put my driver's side window down. I lowered it half way and I notice when I went over some bumps, it would rattle a bit. As a test, I held the window glass at the top and was able to pull it in and out towards and away from me a small amount. Is this normal?

I'm sure this is what's causing the rattling. Are any of you able to move the window back and forth when it's half way down?

I own a '99 300M which I bought used a few months ago (with an extended warranty which I may be using soon).

easyrider300m

now you really got me confused--Kosh says his manual says to use ATF-4 tranny fluid---300Michael says his manual states MOpar power steering fluid---so which is it?---any others with the answer here?--I want to pick up some tomorrow at Pep Boys so I can at least make it through the weekend

sdmike2

It seems to me that putting the wrong fluid in it for a couple of days would still be a better solution than leaving it empty. Of course you take the risk of the dealer saying the problem was caused by the wrong fluid, but my guess would be that your receipt would prove them wrong. Since the '02 manual says ATF-4 tranny fluid I'd probably do that absent any other information.

lancerubin

How do I remove the dashboard panel to get to the back of the radio. I want to install a more powerful antenna.

Thanks

sdmike2

You want me to arrange to have one of the dig doctors come to the meet? We'll only have a few hours, so maybe I'll put a sign-up sheet there. Maybe I can work a big discount if you're serious.

sdmike2

Here's what the panel looks like from the back... http://www.ritchiefamily.com/car/cell/2_trim_from_back.JPG. You remove the panel by using something flat and wide to pry the panel up from the edges. It's held up by 6 pressure clips that you can see in the picture (two at the top, bottom, and sides). Start in one place prying up smoothly yet firmly, and work your way around. Once off it's easy to access the radio and cd player. Your only risk is damaging the plastic by using a pry tool that's sharp on the edges or isn't wide enough. Imagine a very strong tongue depressor and that's about what you want to use. I used the tire removal tools for my bike.

scotian

http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/interior/clock_face/installation_instru/mvc-014f.html

300kam

Finally having a chance to take the car for a longer trip after having it over a year. I took my family to Tahoe for skiing from San Jose. What a nice car to drive! I had a chance to race with a BMW X5, we were up to 120 MPH and he couldn't pass me. Once in the winding road, he slowed down. That is the main reason I didn't buy a SUV. That guy kept pounding over 90 mph all the way, of course, I wouldn't follow. I let it passed. Later I passed him again seeing he was stopped by CHIP.

Glennbp,
Regarding to the Fuel Gauge Drops to "E", it happened to me once. It happened once I had the dimmer switch all the way up. Usually I don't have the switch all the way up, after I scrolled it down a little, I haven't seen it happen again. I don't know if that related, but there were posts mentioned that before.

Just a question, has any body installed 225x45x17 on their M? If so, what brand, what wheel do you go with it? How do you like it?

wire2

They're both right, it depends on the year. At the plant we used a dedicated power steering fluid (Texaco) up to '00. Then during the '00 to '01 changeover shutdown we converted the piping system and connected the ATF supply lines to the power steering auto fill machines.

>>Kosh says his manual says to use ATF-4 tranny fluid---300Michael says his manual states MOpar power steering fluid---so which is it?---<<

wire2

Be advised that there's a sophisticated impedance matching amplifier (it's called an EBL module) connected to the rear window antenna leads, and it works quite effectively.
You'll be hard pressed to improve on the setup.

>I want to install a more powerful antenna...

beach15

I wouldn't recommend putting 225x45x17 tires on an M because of the considerable difference in circumference. It will throw a lot of stuff off.

Some here have put 245x45x17 on which seems to work okay, but isn't recommended for the stock 7" rims. lflowers used this size but he also bought new wider 17x8" rims too. The best to use is something in the standard 222x55x17 size, but we've also found that 245x50x17 will make the smallest difference in the settings if you go larger.

Go here, and check it out:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

The 225x45x17 size would make for a speedometer reading 6.6% too fast, or in other words, when it says 60, your actually going 56mph.

300michael

It was a thought. But you are right, with only a few hours (that really go by fast), plus the cruse, there wouldn't be much time to do dints.

300michael

245x50x70 ? WOW!!!!! That is some size tire. How much of the wheel wells and fenders would you have to cut out to get them on? You would also need a step ladder. Not to mention your speedometer would really be off.
Just kidding I know it was a typo but couldn't resist. It was good, and you made my day, thanks.

kosh_2258

Actually you have your answer:

If your M is a 99 or 00 - Texaco powersteering fluid or the equivalent.
If your M is 01 or newer - ATF+4

I don't know if the PS system changed between 00 and 01, but IF it didn't then what's really being said here is that you can use either just don't mix them.

kosh_2258

The Special runs a 245 x 45 x 18 tire which comes within about .05" diameter of the the original 99 225 X 60 X 16 PHP tires, and later 225 x 55 x 17 tires.

In the 300M it isn't the fender clearance it's the clearance to the lower spring support on the strut that's critical.

The different diameter will also hose up the speedometer and odometer readings. In the case of a larger diameter assembly causing both to read low.

Beach earlier posted a link to a really good tool for playing with +1 and +2 tire and wheel sizing to find a comparable diameter.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

blonda

Ding Doctor was who I originally contacted. They quoted me $75-90 per door, up to 3 dings per door, then $90-$120 for the quarter panel ding. Since I have 3 major dings I was wanting to get repaired (2 on different doors) it was a minimum of $240 just for those. This other guy will work out to cost me less with more fixes. I have 2 real minor dings on the drivers door, along with the major one I want fixed (you can see them at an angle if you look REAL hard). I also have a ding on the bottom of the rear door (have no clue how it got there) that was there when I bought it -- so hard to see I didn't even notice it for a couple months. Plus this guy is going to fix a couple scratches for me.

sdmike2

I'm not sure if the guy affiliated with the detail place is Ding Doctor or something else. I'm leaning towards something else. I'm with you though on using this guy. He seems to know what he's doing and we already have appointments. Besides, I'll let him mess up yours before he gets to mine. lol! (j/k of course)

blonda

Okay, it's going to be nice and sunny today. I'm parking in the driveway and going to install the kit this afternoon. Going to do yours?

sdmike2

bluebaron says that they changed over to using ATF for the power steering fluids when re-tooling for the 01s, but my manual ('01) says not to use ATF. Maybe they didn't fix that part of the manual until '02.

sdmike2

I hope to install my Joshua Tree kit today. Any helpful hints other than "dry fit everything first" and "be careful because once it's stuck it's STUCK!"?