Anyone that has the basslink w/the black case will most likely not be able to use the remote, no place to connect it. You will need the clear case basslink, this has the proper connector to plug in the remote.
speaking of the basslink; anybody know where I can get a set of the four feet that comes w/the basslink? One of mine has the threaded steel inserts mounted too far off and will not allow the long screw to be used.
If you don't mind my asking, when you leased Christine were you considering buying the 300M after lease end (I mean, before the troubles developed). Was it a 99? And if you were considering purchasing afterward, how much more do you think it would have cost to acquire the M that way as opposed to just buying it from the start. I believe it's more expensive to lease then buy instead of just straight out buying, I was just trying to guesstimate how much more expensive it would be w/the average deal. (Anyone's input is welcome).
Ok, I've put it off long enough; its time to spring-clean the M. Recommendations for the Zaino starter kit? My car has been carwashed all winter and from closer than ten feet looks like hell. I need to get down to the swirls and go out from there.
I've spent the last two weekends cleaning and waxing the boat. Man, I wish that thing were as big in the water as it is in my driveway!
LOL on the boat! Hey, why bother to shine up the part that just gets hidden underwater anyway. I hear if you wax it real good the water will repel and you can't even launch it. It just hops back on the trailer. ;P
As for the zaino, I'd recommend getting some Z1, Z2 OR Z5, and definately some Z6 spray. I'd also suggest a clay bar, as I have recently experienced just how effective they are at smoothing out your finish. I also use the leather treatment and the tire stuff, but that's up to you. I can't really tell a difference between the Z2 and Z5, but the Z5 is supposed to help with minor scratching and swirl marks. I haven't noticed an improvement using it. I plan to get a real swirl remover/leveler to take care of that problem. In my personal opinion, the wash isn't any better than the $2.99 per quart stuff you can get a the local auto store, and the glass cleaner isn't special either.
That's one of the risk factors I'm aware of if I end up getting an M. None of the dealers near me are 5-star; the nearest one is in Redwood City, about 25 miles south of San Francisco. However, I've never heard anything particularly glowing about Boardwalk Chrysler.
I never got any grief from Acura of Serramonte regarding warranty repairs; they just fixed things. All they did was confirm the problem and repair it. I'll take it on faith that the service departments of the 3 dealers closest to me are OK and aren't associated with the sales division. The service department at Acura of Serramonte is fine, but their sales department is full of stupid, clueless, and (possibly) sleazy people. You ought to see the manhunt that breaks out when somebody wants to get the price on something.
I stopped by the sales division about 13 months ago to take a look at the TL. The relative greenpea was waiting for me as I drove up. Once past the usual pleasantries, I said I wanted to see what the TL looked like up close. He brings me over to the only TL (S type) on display and launches into an apparently canned presentation on the car's safety features. I played nice during the whole thing, but I really wanted to stop him and ask, "Hey dude, do I look like a minivan buyer to you?!" Grrrrrr...
I'd also recommend getting the ZFX accelerant. The Z-2 or Z-5 will dry in less than half an hour. I gotta say that Zaino has been the easiest way I've ever polished a car. Goes on easy and buffs off fast and best of all it doesn't leave any white residue. I'd posted a pretty comprehensive .doc some time ago that my local Zaino dealer made up on applying Zaino. If anybody wants it look up my e-mail in my profile and I'll pass it on.
I definitely have been to carbuyingtips.com and have had my paranoia levels raised accordingly. :-) Also have been to carsdirect.com, got whatever I could get from edmunds.com, and even purchased info from fightingchance.com. In the end, I just might go the carsdirect.com route. If they're going to do the talking for me, then I'm all for it. I'm not much of a negotiator, so carsdirect.com is probably manna from heaven for me.
I'm not sure I'd want to start adding a different polish on top of the Zaino applications I've already put on my M in that it would have a different molecular stucture and may not bond properly. I'm going to stick with the Z-2 and finish it off with the Z-6 for that extra shine.
Beach15- I guess that $22.00 bottle of ProtectAll should last you about 20 years as I sure you don't use it on the re-cycled Leggo parts of the Avalanche :-)
The one I was test-driving had PHG on it. I thought the scraping problem may have been due to weight, so I had the friend tagging along with me and the salesman get out of the M. I still scraped my driveway, and I get the feeling I'll still do it if I went real slow. And I was going slow already when the deflector scraped the driveway.
I figure I'm going to see if Connell Chrysler still has the M on one of the outside display pedestals and start taking measurements. Like from center of front wheel to the air deflector, from the ground to the bottom of the deflector, from the ground to top of the deflector, and from the ground to the top of the deflector assembly as I move backwards from the frontmost portion an inch at a time. Hopefully I can get some kind of a mathematical model that I size up against the driveway.
I don't think I'm going to have much luck getting another M to test out. I don't think I can show my face around Falore again, not after my friend badgered the salesman into letting me drive the car to and from my house. The salesman initially balked, saying that insurance reasons prevented them from taking the car out of the local area. Driving 6 miles up the highway into San Francisco is considered an insurance risk? I tried to plead my case, since I hadn't driven anything of that size and width in ages, and the cross-street, at a point about a block up the hill from me, narrows to the point where people park their cars halfway on the sidewalk just to make it possible from traffic to pass through. The salesman still said no, but my friend joined the fray and pretty much rammed some logic down his throat. So she made a good save there; I had to buy her dinner just for that alone. Albera Brothers has no M's in stock, and Connell is located about 17 miles away on the other side of the bay in Oakland. I don't think I can convince Connell to give me their demo so I can see how much of the driveway the air deflector will scrape before the front wheels engage the incline.
I'm not too sure if I can try the rental car approach, for I don't know if the agency might try to ding me for some money if they spot something interesting on the air deflector.
There was something I noticed about those 2 Ms on the lot at Falore. Their seat height limits differed. On one I could get seat up just high enough for my use, and on the other had a noticeably greater range of seat height adjustment. Both cars were PHG-equipped. I've also noticed that the drivers seat in some M's has firmer cushioning in it. Anybody notice these inconsistencies in the driver's seat on the M?
Late Sunday afternoon, I managed to sneak myself over the far end of the lot at Falore Chrysler in Sunnyvale and took a closer look at the air dam. I didn't try to look up from underneath, but I felt around one of the attachment points in the corner and thought I felt something like an opening for a Philips screwdriver head.
Assuming that I can find some kind of coping behavior that puts a 300M and my driveway on speaking terms, would the dealer take the air deflector off a new as a predelivery request? Or would they balk for some BS reason involving the warranty?
Since you don't have a problem anymore, this is a general question to the group. For those of you who have had the air deflector removed in some way, shape, or form, has anybody ever scraped their M's nose on any kind of driveway since? There has been a driveway or two in San Francisco where the tow ring underneath my Legend has scraped the sidewalk. I'm afraid of what those driveways might do to an M, if I get one.
I have a 99 non PHG and ripped the the dam clean off attempting to drive over a hump in the back yard to get to my shop so I could put air in the tires. Did this the first day I owned the car....yikes!!! My heart sank when I backed up and saw the air dam laying on the ground. I can tell ya first hand that the M makes a lousy bull dozer...lol
The dam is held on by all plastic reusable push type rivets and two metal pop rivets. I was able to salvage all of the plastic rivets and use them to reinstall the air dam. The ears on the air damn that were held on by the metal rivets were torn but I reattached them with new pop rivets and large area washers.
If it gets ripped off again I will leave it off, as it rubs on alot of steep parking lot to street entrances. My air dam is scuffed up but unless you crawl under the car it just isnt noticeable.
Anyone ever had or having water problems in the front passenger's side. I have only 270 miles on the car and this is the second time for the problem. The water is not from the headliner. This is a leftover no mileage 2001. Dealer adjusted front door, but nothing changed. Any ideas?
I bought most of the Zaino products, and I think the ones mentioned above are great (including leather treatment and tire dressing). On the other hand, I used the glass polish once and think it's too much effort for too little results. The plastic polish does work nicely on the plastic fake wood trim inside, the gray display face on the stereo and climate control, headlights and taillights, but I don't think it's a necessary product, and I wouldn't buy it again.
I've scraped my air dam lots of times (PHG), but can avoid it going in and out of my driveway if I go SLOWLY and at a slight angle. The bottom edge of the air dam is worn (if you get down on your knees to inspect it), but otherwise there is no damage done. The fascia is flexible (when I installed my front license plate below the chrome grill, I made sure not to secure the bottom of the plate to the lower fascia, to allow the fascia to continue to flex). By all means, kleung62, don't let this little quibble deter you from buying this great car!
I get mine hung on low sidewalks occasionally, but it always scrapes off ok. I imagine it is getting ground down pretty thin. ;>) I have dropped my son off at weekend Scout campouts and have actually had to motor across pastures and/or unbelievable gravel "roads". I always expect to find the air dam full of gravel, weeds and cow manure, but so far, so good. Since I use my M as an ATV I won't be installing lowering springs. LOL!
I am a new 300M owner (2001, Blue Sapphire, luxury group, non-PHG) and new to the edmunds board.
Does anyone know specifically how much hp the transmission can take before it goes?
I am considering adding some hp to my M by way of air intake and exhaust mods. I know that these will not "kill" my tranny, but how much hp is too much for the stock transmission?
I had a tow truck operator drag my car from the rear up onto a flatbed and scraped the air dam along the ground for about 5 feet. It didn't damage it enough for me to bother replacing it. The thing is so hidden I wouldn't worry about it.
I've done dual exhaust, bosch plugs and K&N aircharger and have NO problem with my transmission. In fact, the prowler uses the same tranny and those "kat" owners regularly push the cars way over 300hp with no issues.
I purchased a set of curbs ramps for my driveway to solve the problem of scraping the Air Dam. They work great! You can take on the driveway head on with no difficulty. Here is a link to reseller in my area, this is a local company, but I am sure you could find something similar in your area. Sometimes even Home Depot, Costco or other stores carry similar products.
Has anybody installed or looked at the feasabilty of replacing the rim center caps on a regular 300m with the caps that are installed on the Specials rims?
They look to be about the same size and I really like the logo on the center cap of the special. I have a 2001 with 17" chromes and it appears that the Center rim cap may just pop off and if you can get the Special caps with the logo's at a reasonable cost it may be a nice mod.
All this talk about air dams has spun me up! My pet peeve are those stupid "speed bumps" that feel like they're a foot high and not very wide, so when you go over them at even 2 mph it shakes the hell out of your car and suspension. No one is going to convince me that it doesn't hurt anything. IT DOES!!! I would love to find the idiot that came up with the idea. The slightly lower and wider bumps do exactly the same thing keeping people's speed down, but are much friendlier to your car. Anyone else hate those damn things as much as I do?
Just my 2 cents. It cut down in our residential area the number of males screeching their tires trying to impress us by doing 40 in a 25-mph zone. Too many kids playing around here for that IMHO.
I'm not advocating not using them as they serve very useful purposes; it's just the ones that are way too high and narrow. I believe the same purpose could be realized using the bumps that are not so high and somewhat wider. They are far kinder on suspensions, etc. but still keep speed way down.
just this morning, I saw a police car with the CLEAR lights on the top of the roof.. Maybe I did not pay attention to them before, or is this a new Crown Victoria TypeR? He did not have a huge wing on his trunk. :-)
Hey Roger-- I see that yesterday Rocco Mediate won the Chrysler Greater Greensboro Open golf tournament. Part of the prize, aside from the money, was a 300M Special. It would seem a nice gesture if the club would offer Rocco a celebrity membership now that he has a 300M Special. What say?
Anything new on hotel reservations and club sign-up yet? Russ?
I have a Rendezvous sign "under construction" and should have something in hard copy pretty soon. I will forward photos as soon as I get something. I cannot send electronically as my system has a block on attachments.
300Michael--Come on man, bring the relatives to Detroit and Canada too. Ya got to have at least one guy relative coming who can groove on the Dream Cruise, and a plant visit? Sacrifices must be made....My wife will be going this year, which will be a sacrifice on both our parts....Bring the family, eh.?
Does anyone have recommendation for an infant car seat compatible with the 300M? I tried a Century SmartFit (with the base), but it refuses to stay put.
gave my M a thorough wash this weekend. tried to clean the wheels with soap and rinse, still a little dirty. Tried Turtle Wax foaming cleaner (no acids, I read the back of the can before using it) on them - it shines them but I noticed that the chrome is stained in a number of spots. looks like the chrome is starting to deteriorate.
Someone with a 99M posted a few days ago that the dealer replaced their rims because of similar issue with chrome - can you provide the details on this "struggle" with DC, and maybe the name of the dealer you used - it will help me when I talk to my 5* guys. Thanks in advance.
on 300mclub message board, there is a discussion about amplifier/speaker distortion. It seems like the older amps (99 & 00) work better than the new ones (01 & 02). I have the older one (AB version), and the distortion from the bass is still unbearable to me. The 5* replaced front speaker, installed foam insulation (which helped a little), but I still have the annoying popping, vibration from the speakers. Is everyone else happy with their amps/spereo performance (stock ones, upgraded infinity amps)? It looks like a nice stereo, but my 75 watt battery powered portable boombox sounds much better.
you need one of those metal thingies that keep the lap and shoulder portions of the belt securely together. They are available from places that sell car seats - about $2. I also saw a device that help you tighten the seat belt on the car seat by cranking on it at the same store (Burlington Coat Factory in my case). I lay a towel under the base of the infant seat to reduce sliding and minimize "pressure damage" on the leather seats. I have EvenFlow toddler seat and Century 4-in-1 travel system (infant seat) that work ok.
My chrome wheels looked like S#$! after a long hard Canada winter of dirt and grime. Yesterday I tackled the problem, I could get most of the dirt off, but there still was some that would not budge and it looked like it was permanent
I tried many a few different products with no luck, I then tried my old standby "Simple Green". This stuff is amazing and enviro friendly too. Spray it on, use a sponge or soft scrub brush, then hose off. My wheels looked like brand new. Before tackling DC why not give it a try. Simple Green has many different products, I used the regular household cleaner, but they do make automotive products and even a special rim cleaner.
I have about 5 car seats so I consider myself an expert on the matter. lol! It's been my experience that the rear M seatbelts hold car seats just fine without the pain-in-the-neck metal clip. The pressure on the belt system, when tightened, is enough to keep it in place. If you are having trouble with the seatbelt staying tight and want to try the clip, check around on the back and bottom of the car seat. They're usually included. I also have found no value to using the deck mounted seat anchors, as I haven't been able to get the straps tight enough to make a difference. My two pennies.
I have also found that the infant car seats lean too far forward (towards the back) in the rear seats because of the slant of the seating surface. This can cause the unit to pivot at the belt point and move around a bit. The solution to the problem is to support the front of the car seat base with a couple of towels to level it out. The baby position is better and the seat doesn't move around.
Yup I noticed that when I originally found them and was trying to get a closeup of his design! Did not have the heart to mention anything to him when I ordered them as he was so helpful and his price included delivery and setup.
My AB amp sounds great. Try turning your midrange down a bit. We tried it on an '02 M yesterday when we swapped out his AC amp for an AB, and tuning the equalizer to raise the treble and reduce the mid-range made a big difference. It also seems that the culprits are the front door speakers. They're standard 6 1/2 speakers and can be replaced easily for about $50 with something nice from your local audio store. I would also HIGHLY recommend offloading the bass handling to something more suited for the job, like a basslink.
By the way, I heard glennbp's audio system yesterday and all I can say is WOW! We had it turned up to the point that we couldn't even yell back and forth to each other from the driver and passenger seats and the music was crystal clear.
sdmike2, thanks for your thoughts. I understand that glennbp has an aftermarker setup - this is the right way to go IMHO. I am just so not impressed with the "320W" system. One question: does the infinity amp has a separate output for a sub? I read that many people simply connect it to the rear speakers output, which has its benefits, such as being able to adjust the bass (to a certain degree) from the equalizer controls. BTW, does glennbp have an AB or AC or aftermarket amp?
I will try the solution you suggested, however I still see the chrome damage. I spent nearly 1.5 hrs last time polishing the chrome manually and while the wheels look better, there are spots that look like corrosion is taking place under the chrome plating. I hope DC will listen to me when I show it to them. :-(
I don't have the AB or AC as I have completely replaced all the stereo components in my M. For those of you that don't want to go that route and have the AC amp, here's a suggestion: it's quite easy to replace the factory amp with an aftermarket one. All it takes is a pair of low-level converters which are about $25.00 a piece. All of the input and output wiring is accessible at the factory amp, so if you mount your aftermarket amp in the trunk you don't even have to add your own wire. You can continue to use your Basslink as is or connect it up to the new amp with RCA cables, your choice. You also don't have to give up your head unit, changer, or steering wheel controls. Another "fix" is to change out the front door speakers. I highly recommend the Blaupunkt PCxt652. They only run about $50.00 a pair and are a direct replacement for the factory ones. They have high sensitivity and great power handling and sound very clean and smooth. Hope this info will help some of you; particularly those with the new AC type factory crap... er, I mean amp!
my son's infant seat comes with a built-in level indicator on a side - really helps to align it horizontally - the ball needs to stay in the "green" zone. I usually attach the base, adding rolled up towels as needed, making sure the seat is aligned and secure. at this point i leave the base alone, carrying the baby in the detatchable carrier/car seat portion. so far, the pressure damage to the seats has been minimal due to use of towels.
The head unit doesn't have separate sub output. Glennbp had the AB amp before he gutted his system and installed a high-end aftermarket head unit, amp, speakers and sub. He sold it yesterday to help a club poster fix his AC problem.
Good luck, hopefully the "Simple Green" will work for you, for the cheap cost it is worth a try and if it doesn't work it has so many other uses. It has been my experience from the past that trying to polish the chrome does not clean it...it just masks the dirt. The dirt and crime on my wheels was very stubbon and I thought I had a problem until I used this cleaner.
I just did a count...it's actually 7! I have two large booster seats that are permanent in the van for my boys (5 & 7), and an todder seat for my daughter (1) also in the van. We have a small booster that we move from car to van as needed, and one of my son's old toddler seats mounted in my M for the baby's use. We have my other son's todder seat in storage along with the infant seat. I'm ready! Funny thing is, because of car-pooling at my son's pre-school we often use 5 of them at a time in the van!
I agree with the towels. They do a good job of not only protecting the seats, but properly placed they also level the seat base and make the unit more solid and safe.
Comments
I've spent the last two weekends cleaning and waxing the boat. Man, I wish that thing were as big in the water as it is in my driveway!
As for the zaino, I'd recommend getting some Z1, Z2 OR Z5, and definately some Z6 spray. I'd also suggest a clay bar, as I have recently experienced just how effective they are at smoothing out your finish. I also use the leather treatment and the tire stuff, but that's up to you. I can't really tell a difference between the Z2 and Z5, but the Z5 is supposed to help with minor scratching and swirl marks. I haven't noticed an improvement using it. I plan to get a real swirl remover/leveler to take care of that problem. In my personal opinion, the wash isn't any better than the $2.99 per quart stuff you can get a the local auto store, and the glass cleaner isn't special either.
If you have bad swirl marks from the car wash i would suggest you try something like this: http://www.topoftheline.com/hitligcutswi.html
I never got any grief from Acura of Serramonte regarding warranty repairs; they just fixed things. All they did was confirm the problem and repair it. I'll take it on faith that the service departments of the 3 dealers closest to me are OK and aren't associated with the sales division. The service department at Acura of Serramonte is fine, but their sales department is full of stupid, clueless, and (possibly) sleazy people. You ought to see the manhunt that breaks out when somebody wants to get the price on something.
I stopped by the sales division about 13 months ago to take a look at the TL. The relative greenpea was waiting for me as I drove up. Once past the usual pleasantries, I said I wanted to see what the TL looked like up close. He brings me over to the only TL (S type) on display and launches into an apparently canned presentation on the car's safety features. I played nice during the whole thing, but I really wanted to stop him and ask, "Hey dude, do I look like a minivan buyer to you?!" Grrrrrr...
I gotta say that Zaino has been the easiest way I've ever polished a car. Goes on easy and buffs off fast and best of all it doesn't leave any white residue.
I'd posted a pretty comprehensive .doc some time ago that my local Zaino dealer made up on applying Zaino. If anybody wants it look up my e-mail in my profile and I'll pass it on.
Beach15- I guess that $22.00 bottle of ProtectAll should last you about 20 years as I sure you don't use it on the re-cycled Leggo parts of the Avalanche :-)
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/interior/clock_face/new_faces/beast.html
Thanks again Scott
I figure I'm going to see if Connell Chrysler still has the M on one of the outside display pedestals and start taking measurements. Like from center of front wheel to the air deflector, from the ground to the bottom of the deflector, from the ground to top of the deflector, and from the ground to the top of the deflector assembly as I move backwards from the frontmost portion an inch at a time. Hopefully I can get some kind of a mathematical model that I size up against the driveway.
I don't think I'm going to have much luck getting another M to test out. I don't think I can show my face around Falore again, not after my friend badgered the salesman into letting me drive the car to and from my house. The salesman initially balked, saying that insurance reasons prevented them from taking the car out of the local area. Driving 6 miles up the highway into San Francisco is considered an insurance risk? I tried to plead my case, since I hadn't driven anything of that size and width in ages, and the cross-street, at a point about a block up the hill from me, narrows to the point where people park their cars halfway on the sidewalk just to make it possible from traffic to pass through. The salesman still said no, but my friend joined the fray and pretty much rammed some logic down his throat. So she made a good save there; I had to buy her dinner just for that alone. Albera Brothers has no M's in stock, and Connell is located about 17 miles away on the other side of the bay in Oakland. I don't think I can convince Connell to give me their demo so I can see how much of the driveway the air deflector will scrape before the front wheels engage the incline.
I'm not too sure if I can try the rental car approach, for I don't know if the agency might try to ding me for some money if they spot something interesting on the air deflector.
There was something I noticed about those 2 Ms on the lot at Falore. Their seat height limits differed. On one I could get seat up just high enough for my use, and on the other had a noticeably greater range of seat height adjustment. Both cars were PHG-equipped. I've also noticed that the drivers seat in some M's has firmer cushioning in it. Anybody notice these inconsistencies in the driver's seat on the M?
Late Sunday afternoon, I managed to sneak myself over the far end of the lot at Falore Chrysler in Sunnyvale and took a closer look at the air dam. I didn't try to look up from underneath, but I felt around one of the attachment points in the corner and thought I felt something like an opening for a Philips screwdriver head.
Since you don't have a problem anymore, this is a general question to the group. For those of you who have had the air deflector removed in some way, shape, or form, has anybody ever scraped their M's nose on any kind of driveway since? There has been a driveway or two in San Francisco where the tow ring underneath my Legend has scraped the sidewalk. I'm afraid of what those driveways might do to an M, if I get one.
The dam is held on by all plastic reusable push type rivets and two metal pop rivets. I was able to salvage all of the plastic rivets and use them to reinstall the air dam. The ears on the air damn that were held on by the metal rivets were torn but I reattached them with new pop rivets and large area washers.
If it gets ripped off again I will leave it off, as it rubs on alot of steep parking lot to street entrances. My air dam is scuffed up but unless you crawl under the car it just isnt noticeable.
I've scraped my air dam lots of times (PHG), but can avoid it going in and out of my driveway if I go SLOWLY and at a slight angle. The bottom edge of the air dam is worn (if you get down on your knees to inspect it), but otherwise there is no damage done. The fascia is flexible (when I installed my front license plate below the chrome grill, I made sure not to secure the bottom of the plate to the lower fascia, to allow the fascia to continue to flex). By all means, kleung62, don't let this little quibble deter you from buying this great car!
Silver
I am a new 300M owner (2001, Blue Sapphire, luxury group, non-PHG) and new to the edmunds board.
Does anyone know specifically how much hp the transmission can take before it goes?
I am considering adding some hp to my M by way of air intake and exhaust mods. I know that these will not "kill" my tranny, but how much hp is too much for the stock transmission?
Thanks in advance
Don't fret. Have fun. http://www.ritchiefamily.com/300m.htm
http://www.curbramps.com/
The best part is they are made from old recycled tires so you are doing your part in helping keep a clean enviroment.
They look to be about the same size and I really like the logo on the center cap of the special. I have a 2001 with 17" chromes and it appears that the Center rim cap may just pop off and if you can get the Special caps with the logo's at a reasonable cost it may be a nice mod.
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/interior/clock_face/installations/dcp_0618.html
Anything new on hotel reservations and club sign-up yet? Russ?
I have a Rendezvous sign "under construction" and should have something in hard copy pretty soon. I will forward photos as soon as I get something. I cannot send electronically as my system has a block on attachments.
300Michael--Come on man, bring the relatives to Detroit and Canada too. Ya got to have at least one guy relative coming who can groove on the Dream Cruise, and a plant visit? Sacrifices must be made....My wife will be going this year, which will be a sacrifice on both our parts....Bring the family, eh.?
Someone with a 99M posted a few days ago that the dealer replaced their rims because of similar issue with chrome - can you provide the details on this "struggle" with DC, and maybe the name of the dealer you used - it will help me when I talk to my 5* guys. Thanks in advance.
on 300mclub message board, there is a discussion about amplifier/speaker distortion. It seems like the older amps (99 & 00) work better than the new ones (01 & 02). I have the older one (AB version), and the distortion from the bass is still unbearable to me. The 5* replaced front speaker, installed foam insulation (which helped a little), but I still have the annoying popping, vibration from the speakers. Is everyone else happy with their amps/spereo performance (stock ones, upgraded infinity amps)? It looks like a nice stereo, but my 75 watt battery powered portable boombox sounds much better.
I lay a towel under the base of the infant seat to reduce sliding and minimize "pressure damage" on the leather seats.
I have EvenFlow toddler seat and Century 4-in-1 travel system (infant seat) that work ok.
I tried many a few different products with no luck, I then tried my old standby "Simple Green". This stuff is amazing and enviro friendly too. Spray it on, use a sponge or soft scrub brush, then hose off. My wheels looked like brand new. Before tackling DC why not give it a try. Simple Green has many different products, I used the regular household cleaner, but they do make automotive products and even a special rim cleaner.
http://www.simplegreen.com
pn# 4782290AA $25.45 ea. list
oem-car-parts.com sells for $22.14 ea.
was told they will fit on 99-02 stock wheels.
because inquiring minds wanted to know...
:-)
tnsc300m
I have also found that the infant car seats lean too far forward (towards the back) in the rear seats because of the slant of the seating surface. This can cause the unit to pivot at the belt point and move around a bit. The solution to the problem is to support the front of the car seat base with a couple of towels to level it out. The baby position is better and the seat doesn't move around.
Hope this helps.
ottowrkr - If they do fit how many do you think you will be able to fit into your lunchbox!
By the way, I heard glennbp's audio system yesterday and all I can say is WOW! We had it turned up to the point that we couldn't even yell back and forth to each other from the driver and passenger seats and the music was crystal clear.
One question: does the infinity amp has a separate output for a sub? I read that many people simply connect it to the rear speakers output, which has its benefits, such as being able to adjust the bass (to a certain degree) from the equalizer controls.
BTW, does glennbp have an AB or AC or aftermarket amp?
I hope DC will listen to me when I show it to them. :-(
my son's infant seat comes with a built-in level indicator on a side - really helps to align it horizontally - the ball needs to stay in the "green" zone. I usually attach the base, adding rolled up towels as needed, making sure the seat is aligned and secure. at this point i leave the base alone, carrying the baby in the detatchable carrier/car seat portion.
so far, the pressure damage to the seats has been minimal due to use of towels.
I agree with the towels. They do a good job of not only protecting the seats, but properly placed they also level the seat base and make the unit more solid and safe.