The transition is complete to the new server. It may be a couple of days until databases everywhere are updated with the new info, but I am able to connect to the site on the new server this morning.
Look for a black and white odometer style counter at the bottom of the home page. If it's there, you are seeing the "new" web site.
Thanks for your patience. We hope no one was inconvenienced during the transition.
I have just been raked over the coals, by a post that I put in regarding front plates. I take exception to the manner that I was chastised for 1 comment that I made which I did not think was offensive. I am leaving this site in disgust until they find someone who might have a sense of humour, for a change. Good Luck eveyrone and enjoy your M's.
Found your posts informative (like a lot of other posters here). Didn't find your offensive front licence post & don't want to go there, but would you cool down & reconsider?
It is my understanding that you cannot purchase the exhaust tips by themselves, you have to buy a complete rear resonator which has the tips welded to it. I have yet to see any tips that are identical. Not only are they rolled and oval, but the tips are angle cut so they have the same curvature as the rear fascia. Somebody had their "stuff" together on that one!
Just say no to front plates! It cost me about $200 dollars to repair the damage caused by the mounting screws for the front license plate bracket. I guess DC thought that letting co-op engineering students design license plate brackets would be a harmless task to give them. Ya right!!!
I have just recently got back to readin gposts on this board - and I saw nothing that was offensive -Can someone please tell me what the fuss was about? - no need to go.. Stick around and share some more valuable posts with the rest of us. - Just my $0.02 worth..
This is actually one of the most civil boards I have seen on the 'net. Nothing you have ever said was offensive. As a matter of fact, I have never seen an offensive or malicious post here (with the exception of one anonymous idiot who was posting nonsense among 5 or six boards at once.)
Hey, I was "slapped on the wrist" by Pat once for using the word "rice" in one of my posts. Thought it was silly, but have minded my manners since :-)
Just sit back, count to 10, drink a Molson, and say "Eh!" to the folks down here in the "lower 48"!!
Don't let this assinine politically correct garbage get to you. In the end it's all just meaningless. 99.9% of us here on the board respect and appreciate your input. We want you to stay!!!
I scrolled back a couple of hundred posts and cannot find what it is that Mikey is talking about. I only find good insightful posts from him. I vote for Mikey to stay with us.
I thought the "rice" word had been used here a lot. Can't believe they got mad at that. I guess that acronym on the Dodge Intrepid Board would be frowned upon here (MOPAR = Mowing Over Pathetic [non-permissible content removed] R***).
I would not put any on until I could find them on ebay. The Intrax is on because of the price I paid for them, was a third of their regular price. Just like the 4 PHP struts I just got for less then 100 dollars. I do everything on a budget. If I bought a new Non PHP (which I am not planning to do), I would take off the springs (intrax) and all the other stuff I have added and intall them on my so called New M, and return my 99 back to stock (The hood scoop I would have to think about) except for the dual exhaust. The reason being I have the Spacer kit, if I needed it. It was very hard to get, and Intrax doesn't carry anything to correct the vibration if it occures on the vehicle. The H&R is just the safer bet if you pay full price for the springs, thats all. Intrax seems to have 50 no shimmy vs 50 shimmy on the PHP, and 33 no shimmy vs 67 shimmy on the non PHP talking to the company.
No front plates in Arizona As for the license plates they now stay with the owner, not the vehicle. So if you sell a vehicle in AZ, you keep the plates.
Heres what you do. Go down to the local junk yard (or salvage yard) and get one of those flip up head lamp assemblys and mount it to your M. Kind of like James Bond's Auston Martin. Under normal driving use the flip up so the grill shows. When stopped (but officer, I do have a front plate, you probably just didn't see it, while admiring my Great looking M) hit the switch and flip it down. No poison E-mail letters please
That engine paint on the lettering looks great. I wonder why the factory never did that? Post some details on what you did. I think I want to do mine in Platinum.
Well, the "details" are pretty ugly! I'm a terrible painter...always make a mess! Since the letters are raised, I thought I could use a rubber roller, but the paint just dripped down the sides of the letters :-( Soooo...I ran out to Home Depot annd got some Barbecue Grill flat black paint and sprayed over my messy mistake.
I then went to Wally Mart and got some simple gold touch-up paint. This time I just used the brush that came with the touch-up paint and tried to be as careful as possible. There were still a few minor drips that I simply scratched off with an exacto-blade tip after the paint dried.
I heard that unmistakable clicking and scraping sound as I turned into my driveway today. 99 non-PHP with 26k, not driven very hard. Any experiences with CV joints failing at low miles? Its still in warranty and I have a service contract, but still; I drove my LeBaron over a 100K on the original CVs.
Now I have to go paint my valve covers!! Won't happen today though. I just spent 10 hours helping a friend lay about 2,000 square feet of sod....*groan*. At least it turned out nice. Back later. Gotta go chug some Advil.
I've found only about 15 reverences to this tire on the web, and all of them say the tire is awesome. I saw them on an M the other day in stock size, and I noticed they are V-rated. Anyone heard of these tires? Anyone know where we can get information on them? There's no mention of them on Yoko's web site or at Tire Rack. The tread looks like the Avid S/T.
hey, I always wondered... in many of those places where I have been, do they wear any deodorant? It seems to me that some of those places get pretty stinky. But maybe that's just NYC cabs that gave me the wrong impression.
DC starting putting the chrome tips on the Ms in 2001. Also, as Roger said, I think my tips are still available from the shop that did my duals. They're $15 per tip, or $100 for each Y-pipe/tip assembly. Here are some pictures:
When I bought my 99 non PHP with 34K a few months ago, there were two of the dreaded Goodyears Eagle LS on the front that were shot. I looked for replacements and found that the Yokohamas YK 420 V rated apparently were a brand new line. I was able to get these through Discount Tire. These tires were $50 less than the price quoted to me for the Goodyear replacements. The car handles so much better with these tires. These tires are quiet and should be consider by anyone buying new tires. At least that is my $.02.
YOu like them, huh? That's great. The M seems to like Yoko tires, and it's nice to find one that's V-rated for us guys with PHG. Bonus that its a heck of a lot cheeper than my Michelins! I wonder why Yokohama doesn't list them on their web site. Tire Rack doesn't either. Strange.
I found a post on another site from a guy that also said the tire was a "new line" and therefore not shown on the Yoko web site yet. The post was dated early 2001!! I wonder if it is a special tire sold just through Discount Tire. Hmmmmmm. My local Big O tire carries Yokos, I should go check with them. I don't need tires yet, but there are often a lot of questions about Goodyear replacements in there.
Yeah, I'm too wiped out tonight though ( and it's almost 10pm). Maybe if my kids wake me up way too early tomorrow I'll give it a shot. Darn you guys! lol
I got the package you sent. I'd be happy to post the pictures, but I don't have a scanner! All my pics are digital. Soooooo...you want me to just send the pictures back (nice, by the way) or will someone else volunteer to scan and post them? Mike
for all the nice emails! its very good to be back, its almost like my M is new, my wife took great care of it! and nope, noone wears deotorants over there. but its no biggie cuz you want smell the people, the countrys themselves just smell to bad..
OK, just finished lowering my M using the H & R Springs. Took me seven hours, most came from dismantling the rear deck. I did not install the spacers just yet. Car stance looks great, handling improved. I do have a slight vibration on throttle. If I didn't learn about the potential vibration here, I probobly would not have noticed or think it was road feedback.
Does anyone know how to override the 118 MPH speed limiter? This is crazy, the car has so much mire to give. Does this CHIP I hear about do the trick? Pls advise...
Otto: To late, the dealer put it on during PDI so the damage is done. Minnesota is a two plate state and they don't take kindly to it not being there.
lonestarsled: Bought the kit from Stongard. I agree the price is steep, but getting a hood repainted is worse. The kit installed nicely but if you've never worked with this sort of stuff it would be best to practice first. The bumper is indeed the worst piece. It takes time and plenty of patience to work it. Because of the ground effects on the Special I ended up trimming the kit somewhat. But the end result turned out great.
They also provide phone support so I called them in advance and got some installation tips and tricks that helped.
Toms99: Those chrome parts are purely for advertising and show. If you want something like that you'd have to find a plating shop that could do it. Also there's a good chance the parts are non-functional because it is only a display piece. Think in terms of those cutaway engines you see at car shows.
Yeah, you're probably right...But at least a cut-away pic you know is not real. The chrome diaphragm is possible. Heck, I had TONS of chrome on my 67 FireBird 400 engine! It's a slight case of deceptive advertising, IMHO. But not enough to warrant the expense of plating them myself!!
Probably the only benefit of those chips (e.g. ASE) is that they remove the speed limiter. You'll also want to replace your tires with V-rated ones. I'm not sure how much you plan to run over 118, but it's not a cheap solution for a few runs up there.
lonestarsled: Thanks for the front fascia removal tips! Took everything apart and found that the headlight welts were overlapping. I cut the excess and but jointed the welt, and gluded the ends down with goop. Oh, I also noticed that the 10mm nuts you access from within the wheel-well were loose from the get-go. Re-assembled and everything is fine! I don't think I would have attempted this without your pics!
sdmike2: Thanks for hosting lonestar's pics!
phases: Welcome back and thanks for defending our freedom!
well, I went out and started the process of painting the letters on my valve covers...and I almost got to the point of painting! I chased around the house for 15 minutes looking for a suitable brush, finding that the ones in a finger nail polish bottle were about perfect. Once I had one cleaned up I had to find a container for my paint mix (the G2 caliper paint has two parts...paint and an activator). Once I cut up a plastic cup for use, I cleaned my letters with alcohol to remove any grease and oil. I then put the 4 parts of paint in the cup, and was going for the 1 part activator when I realized I COULDN'T GET THE CAP OFF! I even tried channel lock pliers! Well, so much for the leftover caliper paint.
Get a firm foam paint pad and find a paint, like acrylic art paint, that is quite thick. Apply it evenly to the pad and then press down lightly on the letters and lift straight up. It should leave a nice, even, clean coat of paint on the top of the letters. After the paint drys, spray them with a coat of flat clear coat like Krylon.
I have a 2000 300M with 68000 miles on it. I recently have an irritating rattle coming from underneath the car, and also one from behind the dash. (not necessarily at the same time) The damn thing is I cant just take it to the dealer because its intermit ant. It only happens sometimes, usually around 40 miles and hour when the overdrive lockup comes in and engine is in a low rpm, heavy load situation. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?
try posting your question at the 300M Club message board. Try the complaints/problems area. There are some users that have more mechanical expertise than the average bear. http://pub88.ezboard.com/b300menthusiastsclub
E-mailed you a picture of my valve covers with the Inferno red touch up paint. I found that the best way to do it is as follows.
1) Clean with a degreasing agent. 2) Paint the top of the letters white first to give the red a good base to go on to. 3) Wait a day before applying a second coat or take your M out for a good ride to cure the paint. 4) In between coats sand with a 400 grit paper to smooth it out.
You also need a steady hand and it's a lot easier to see what you doing if you have full sunlight shining down on the covers when your applying it
OK, it's taken me a while to catch up with you, my 300M brothers, but here's the K&N AirCharger on my 99LHS:
The red wire enclosed in the vinyl wrap is the power wire to the Infinity Basslink (gee, doesn't everyone have one of these by now??)
The install was simple, but I ran into a couple of quirky problems. I'll post them later in case anyone else wnats to take the plunge!
Oh...BTW...Any fellow LHS lurkers here...this bolts right up, even though the LHS is not "officially" listed as one of the cars it is made for. If you think there are few aftermarket parts for the M, there are even less for the LHS. However 99% of the M stuff fits right into the LHS.
When do you get the vibration? On any throttle, or just at full throttle or just at certian speeds? I thought I had a vibration at first it truned out to be the roadway. After a mile it cleared up even after hard acceleration. I did get some PHP struts and will mount them to check out the ride (see if it improves the speed bumbs. I am also thinking of trying just the rear tranny spacer and then each spacer in turn to see if it affects the ride. I also have to redo my Hood scoop duct to gain the extra 10mm the spacers will take away.
Any news on the HID conversion kits yet. The month is practicly over and have not heard anything yet. I just reground the hood on the fog lamps to change the pattern. I wanted more side light (like the cornering lights on the older lux, cars like Caddys and Lincolns). Now I took off the Aux lights I had (I lost one set the first day after lowering) on the car. It is set so that it does not blind the oncomming traffic although the side traffic will see the light (so to speak), pun intended. I am thinking of regrinding the front lo beams hood to see if it will increase the lower light level.
Comments
Look for a black and white odometer style counter at the bottom of the home page. If it's there, you are seeing the "new" web site.
Thanks for your patience. We hope no one was inconvenienced during the transition.
Roger Waters, Prez
Mike Johnston
Hey, I was "slapped on the wrist" by Pat once for using the word "rice" in one of my posts. Thought it was silly, but have minded my manners since :-)
Just sit back, count to 10, drink a Molson, and say "Eh!" to the folks down here in the "lower 48"!!
I used gold to match the "3.5L" logo.
That engine paint on the lettering looks great. I wonder why the factory never did that? Post some details on what you did. I think I want to do mine in Platinum.
I then went to Wally Mart and got some simple gold touch-up paint. This time I just used the brush that came with the touch-up paint and tried to be as careful as possible. There were still a few minor drips that I simply scratched off with an exacto-blade tip after the paint dried.
19-001-01 MAR 01 Steering - Loose Feel/Clunking on Turns
http://www.discounttire.com/dtc/findTireDetail.do?step=details&index=2&productCodeIndex=43968
http://community.webshots.com/album/38170232wLNids
SDMike, what the heck are you waiting for. Go out there and just paint yours. We know you want to
Mike
Every MOPAR pic of the engine shows these chrome pieces, yet I have never seen an actual 300M/LHS with them!
Anyone know if they are actually available somewhere?
lonestarsled: Bought the kit from Stongard. I agree the price is steep, but getting a hood repainted is worse. The kit installed nicely but if you've never worked with this sort of stuff it would be best to practice first. The bumper is indeed the worst piece. It takes time and plenty of patience to work it. Because of the ground effects on the Special I ended up trimming the kit somewhat. But the end result turned out great.
They also provide phone support so I called them in advance and got some installation tips and tricks that helped.
Toms99: Those chrome parts are purely for advertising and show. If you want something like that you'd have to find a plating shop that could do it. Also there's a good chance the parts are non-functional because it is only a display piece. Think in terms of those cutaway engines you see at car shows.
sdmike2: Thanks for hosting lonestar's pics!
phases: Welcome back and thanks for defending our freedom!
I guess I'll try again some other day.
Get a firm foam paint pad and find a paint, like acrylic art paint, that is quite thick. Apply it evenly to the pad and then press down lightly on the letters and lift straight up. It should leave a nice, even, clean coat of paint on the top of the letters. After the paint drys, spray them with a coat of flat clear coat like Krylon.
1) Clean with a degreasing agent.
2) Paint the top of the letters white first to give the red a good base to go on to.
3) Wait a day before applying a second coat or take your M out for a good ride to cure the paint.
4) In between coats sand with a 400 grit paper to smooth it out.
You also need a steady hand and it's a lot easier to see what you doing if you have full sunlight
shining down on the covers when your applying it
Mike
The red wire enclosed in the vinyl wrap is the power wire to the Infinity Basslink (gee, doesn't everyone have one of these by now??)
The install was simple, but I ran into a couple of quirky problems. I'll post them later in case anyone else wnats to take the plunge!
Oh...BTW...Any fellow LHS lurkers here...this bolts right up, even though the LHS is not "officially" listed as one of the cars it is made for. If you think there are few aftermarket parts for the M, there are even less for the LHS. However 99% of the M stuff fits right into the LHS.