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http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/vrtc/ca/capubs/tpms.pdf
You need Acrobat Reader to view it and if you don't have that you can download it here:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/main.html
Denverm has the right answer. When the tire deflates the effective radius between the hub center and the road surface decreases, increasing the rotational speed. Remember, the tire sidewalls fold and shorten the distance between tread and rim. The overall tire circumference doesn't change but the tire tread is displaced relative to the rim.
Page 17 discusses the testing of the rotational type monitoring system.
Question on the plant closings. This is due, mainly, to the cars that are already on the lot not selling, right? Plus, that, in addition, no one is ordering any 2003's either? I don't want to say it, but the LH's must be really growing un-popular for new buyers. I still think they can compete, but for whatever reason, no one new seems to care. They must just be unwanted.
I also must say though, that of all M's on the road, I see more 2002's than any other model year. Not sure why, but they seem to have sold quite well, at least in this state. 99's & 00's are also out there in abundance, but I rarely ever see any 01's. It's kind of hard with the 03's, because nothing much has changed visually.
From what others have said and you have now conceded as to the need to retrain, your statement is clearly inaccurate. It is not accurate to say that the front driver's side sensor will "ALWAYS" read the pressure in that position, regardless if it's been rotated." It is also not accurate to say that "tire rotation does not change anything." Tire rotation DOES change it, and you have to retrain with the magnet in order to get it correct again. It is also not accurate to say that the sensor will read the pressure in whatever wheel is in a certain position; the sensor reads the pressure in a certain wheel, regardless of which position it is in, the exact OPPOSITE of what you said.
To say that your post was accurate but just "left out" the simple step of retraining also isn't correct. You were clearly saying that the system works in such a way that no retraining would be necessary
Hey, I'm not criticizing you for being incorrect, 'cause I'm certainly not always correct in what I say. But for you to now say that others didn't read your post correctly and that what you said WAS correct is kinda like saying 2+2=5 . . . .
Re:'03 plastic chrome wheels. I've not seem them in person, but in lawman's picture, they look like chrome model car plastic wheels. It hard to quantify, but they just have a different shine to them. I'll have to see them in person to commit. Are they as durable to impact as the chromed aluminum?
My $.02.
>When the tire deflates the effective radius between the hub center and the road surface decreases...
No, the APPARENT radius decreases. Effective radius is fixed by the constant length of 1 revolution of the tread stretched out (circumference)and Pi. Also constant, of course.
Low pressure increases the contact patch (footprint)of the tread to the road but can't change the distance a tire will travel in 1 revolution.
OK, here's a practical demo;
get out your old Hula-Hoop, mark a point on it and the floor and roll it along ,undistorted, for 1 revolution. It will have gone xxx inches.
Start again, this time press the top of the hoop down hard while rolling, which will reduce the MEASURED radius relative to the floor, and it will still travel xxx inches (the same distance)because the circumference hasn't changed.
A string tied in a loop will also prove this, no matter what the profile is.
>... the tire tread is displaced relative to the rim.
As above, 1 axle revolution will produce 1 tread revolution, no matter how distorted the path may become. Otherwise the tire bead will be forced to move along on the wheel lip.
Thanks for the link to the nhtsa paper. What I got from it is that speed difference detection of low tires is extremely unreliable. Which is why I'm questioning the principles involved.
mrl859 - I agree, if I was in the market ,the special would be the way yo go.
I find that fully inserting the nozzle, then drawing back out 2"-3" works well.
If you were to cut the tread cleanly away from the sidewalls, then cut it into a single flat strip of tread you would have the fixed length. To apply the normal pressure and tension forces associated with a rolling tire would not noticeably change the length, considering you'd have to overcome the strength of 6 layers of steel belts under the tread.
> The hula-hoop does not have a flexible sidewall.
True, but that's irrelevant. The hula hoop is the equivalent of the tread only, not the whole tire. Attaching a circular strip of stretch material from the hoop to a smaller rigid steel hoop inside would be a comparable equivalent to a tire and rim. Even with that scenario, distorting the outside hoop won't change the distance of 1 revolution.
>...flatten the hula hoop, its OUTSIDE diameter/circumference would change.
Yes and no.
Height lost would exactly equal width gained. As an oval instead of a circle the distance around it (circumference) remains the same.
In a low tire, the apparent radius lost directly below the axle is gained just ahead of, and behind, where the tread is forced out to compensate, and gives the oversized contact patch.
denverm - I'm not surprised the Yoko's felt "loose" compared to the PHG OEM tires. The YK420 is an all season touring tire designed for wet weather traction and a smooth quiet ride...much like the MXV4+. The MXM4 sacrifices some comfort and quiet for better handling, and is more appropriate for the PHG. I find the MXV4+ handling to be just the right balance between performance and comfort for the Chrysler...after all, it's not a sports sedan by any stretch of the imagination.
mrl859 - It's probably just the photo. The chrome look excellent. I've actually had more than a few strangers walk up to me and say, "nice rims."
But, it may have also been a new SXT (though you said it was an R/T). Basically a base Intrepid, but with the 242hp high-output engine of the R/T and 17" chrome wheels, but no autostick, and no upgraded suspension.
I see what you're saying in that the tire has a set circumference and as long as it stays attached to the wheel 1 revolution is 1 revolution regardless of distance between the hub center and the road surface. The wheel and tire just rotate less concentrically than before.
It's not quite the same as a small wheel running inside a large hoop. The small wheel will have to turn more revolutions than the larger hoop per one rev of the hoop.
But I'll disagree that a tire doesn't stretch when inflated. If that weren't true then a tire tread would always wear evenly regardless of inflation pressure. But we know that the center will wear faster than the edges if the tire is overinflated. So I think it's fair to say a tires circumference can vary depending upon inflation pressure. Steel belts not withstanding because a tire is a non rigid thing.
The only way to find out would be to measure a tire circumference uninflated, inflated to normal pressure, and overinflated and see if the circumference does change a measureable amount.
I think folks may rightly differ as to which mix of performance and comfort is the "right balance." The mix for a non-PHG LH car on MXV or YK420 tires is different than the mix for a PHG car on Pilot tires. I prefer the latter, and having put 38K on my car, I DO think of it as a sports sedan. It may not be the best sports sedan available (I've never driven a BMW M5 but know it would trounce my M), but I've pushed this car on some winding roads, and its handling has stunned me. I happen to prefer and feel fortunate to drive an M that is slanted a bit more towards performance than comfort, but to each his own.
Good point, Kosh.
> measure a tire circumference .... if the circumference does change ...
Good idea!
I did just that.
My son had a pair of Michelin P195-75R14's from his car in the basement so I took some measurements; pressure versus circumference.
At 42 psi I got 79½"
At 35 - 79 7/16"
At 32 - 79 3/8"
Then at 30,25,20,15,10 and 5 psi it remained constant at 79 3/8"
So, yes, an overinflated tire forces the tread center out to wear faster, but no measurable change from 32 psi to 5.
When I ordered "my" Concorde, I was actually considering LeSabre's and Crown Vic's, so in reality, I am thrilled to have a car that handles as well as the Chrysler does...which is to say very well indeed!
I suspect that the added handling you gain with more aggressive tires actually costs very little in added noise or discomfort. It's probably an easy trade-off.
No one advocated running 42 psi on an M, if you read my post 20924, it was strictly an experiment on an extra tire, a 14" at that.
On the fender ? If you saw the sticker on the fender it is not a factory RT. All RT stickers get put on the front doors , just above the door moulding strip .
I'm going to have to check out the chrome wheels and such. I've been perfectly happy with the standard wheels on my 2000 300M, I think I need to see both types of wheels in person. Which I can't do until the dealer gets some 2003s in stock.
I'm looking to order a car and have it available around the end of February. What would you guess the best time to order would be? The dealer is guessing order in mid-December. He also said that customer orders are only scheduled during the first week of the month. I think he meant the scheduling process, not the build, but I'm sure you folks can give me the straight poop here.
Actually, my salesman also said he was going to follow some orders through and see when they got scheduled to be built. I'm a bit worried as I thought Otto talked about being on leave for several extra weeks in the next 3 months.
"I think it's fair to say knowledgable buyers are a minority."
Really? In this day and age and the info found on boards like this? I think it's the OTHER way around. Many salesman haven't the SLIGHTEST clue what they're selling OR talking about! All they want is for you to sign on the dotted line! They'll tell you anything. This holds true for many dealers, not just DC.
To all-
I say, do it the old fashion way- test the tire pressure youself once a month with a good gauge! It's only one more "gadget" to break.
fastdriver
Mmmm..... 2+2 doesn't = 5! Damn, I better go take a refresher course!
And I don't think those two statements are opposites of each other either Most buyers are not very knowledgeable about the cars (there are those like us, but they are not as frequent as you'd expect) and the salesmen for the most part are idiots that just want to earn an extra buck...
There are plenty of people who still buy a car because of something as simple as the name on the hood or the color of it or because the dealer sold them on a monthly payment.
Most people don't put any more thought into buying a car than they do buying a TV or a home computer. They shop a brand, or a price, or a size and understand very little about what it is they are buying or how it stacks up against the competition.
I'm driving a Mercury Sable rental. Nice appliance. Semi-comfortable bench seat, no steering feel, grabby brakes and NOISY! Both engine and road noise. Almost makes my M seem Lexus-like! I'm sure that being a rental with 30k miles adds to some of my complaints, but it is quite a step down from my M.
It's been in the shop 3 days. I wonder if it misses me? To help assuage my pain, I waxed the evil wife's RX300. Lookin' good, she's happy.
Thanks to those who offered sympathy. I'll keep you posted as events unfold. Fastdriver: not sure if I can go to (I'll be PC here) YOU KNOW WHERE. I don't think I'm supposed to take the Merc out of state. Evil wife won't let me take the RX, for fear I'll "lose it!"
Enjoy the coming week, all.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Hope your baby is better soon and comes back as good as she was before! I hate when that happens. Reminded me of when a girl in a van BACKED UP at a Stop sign and banged right in to Christine. I almost died because I JUST got the new tires and it was FINALLY going straight after 10 1/2 months! The alignment was the FIRST thing I thought of. Luckily there was just a minor scrape that could not be seen and the alignment was okay! ;-))
Guess you'll have to save the road trip for the 300 when you get her back. The air on the highway will make the paint dry better! Does that sound like a good excuse for a trip? ;-))
drpixel-
Thinking of you and yours. Hope things are getting better and that you're feeling better.
fastdriver
I can't imagine what seeing a school bus backing up on top of my freshly polised car's hood would be like...I'd probably ring the driver's neck, whether he could see me or not!
The CVA-1006 sends the audio/video signal to one input of the TMX-R680A, and there is another input on the TMX so it can be used independantly with headphones if desired
I went to Mohegan Sun a couple days ago. Havent been there since a month after it opened. Wow---lots of changes and additions---MS is better than FW--more restaurants, lots of gaming areas, nice racebook room, and great entertainment. The free shows are great. I like the Cedars Bar for the steak kabobs and lobster roll but there is plenty of good places to eat at FW. But you definitely need a map at MS expecially if you've never been there.
And as a bonus, you get to drive in the 300M about 25 miles further to get to MS. With the CD's cranking, the extra time just flies by.
Did you take some pics of your accident? We want to see before and after photos.
EZ
So where did you purchase it? Or did you build it form scratch? Someone should make an assembled lister tube for our M's and sell them to the M owners here. Would save other members lots of time and aggravation and would be profitably to the supplier.
EZ
I bought my 99LHS basically on impulse. It had just been introduced, I saw one on the Dealer's lot that I pass on the way to work, and I bought it. There were virtually no reliability data way back then, and I didn't even test drive any other car!
And yes, I thought about all the reasons not to buy a car in the first model year. So I leased for the first 3 years, figuring that if it was a lemon, I could just had in the keys at lease end. Turned out that other than a couple of window motors, after 3 years I had no trouble, I loved the car, and my residual was a couple of grand less than market value. So I bought it, and have no regrets.
Here's a good way to look at car buying: Ever see used car ads in the newspapers? Ever see those ads thaat say "reliable transportation"? Heck, that's a red flag that the car looks like a piece of #@#$ ! Many folks steer clear of ads with that notice. But the car may very well be reliable transportation. And when all else is said and done, what is the major function of a car?
So a car may be the only consumer product whose ad is rejected for proclaiming that it fulfills its major purpose! That's why buying a car is never a clear-cut decision based on statistics......
silver 2000 300M loaded except php
Drive=Love
Easyrider300M