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Comments
A couple of weeks ago I was driving our '99 300M (~20K miles) and I noticed that the steering felt very ponderous. Like driving through mashed potatoes. It was also making a little noise when rotated to lock position for U-turns and back out of the drive way.
When I returned home, I popped the hood and checked the belts and power steering fluid. The belts looked okay, though worn, via a quick scan. Still tight. However, the PS fluid was about an inch and a half below the "max when hot" line. I added enough new PS fluid to bring the level up to that line.
I then test drove the car and had my wife drive it also. Both of us were shocked at the night-and-day change. Back to like-new. No evidence of PS fluid dripped in the engine compartment and none on my garage floor, so no apparent system leak.
Now I notice that when cold, the PS fluid level is about an inch over the "max when cold" line. Since I like the way the steering handles now, I'm not inclined to try to reduce the fluid level down, even though the manual, as usual, says to not overfill.
My issue is two-fold. Should I be concerned about maintaining my present PS fluid level? If this PS fluid level is necessary for satisfactory PS performance, is something like the PS pump failing? Are there any chronic PS problems w/ the 300M?
Thanks in advance.
1. Fix the groaning drivers window
2. Program in the flashing red light when remote control locks the car.
3. Fix the sunroof gasket that was seperating at the seam at the rear.
I came back later half expecting a lot of non-progress. Instead he informed me that they had replaced the window regulator, programmed the red light, and had ordered a new sunroof! (He felt like a glue job wouldn't last)
I hope this guy sticks around for a long time and keeps up the proactive attitude.
Silver
But now, the GM dealer we take the Chevy to more than makes up for that crap. When we first bought it, there was a slight vibration when braking. Let it go over the summer and then took it in back in August. Simple issue: slightly warped rotors (very common), they resurfaced them, and they've been fine for 6 months so far. Then, last month it was really cold and we got a hairline crack in the passenger's side mirror. Stopped in one evening while shopping, and in less than 10 seconds, the guy just said he'd order a new one and call us. It was in 3 days later, they painted it, and installed it the next day.
Pretty minor stuff, but for some dealers (like so many 5*'s, it would be like pulling teeth trying to get them to fix it. I'm very glad you had such a good luck--just hope the new guy keeps things going like this!
2 window motors/regulators $400
Failed tranny hydraulic pump $1200
Failed steering pump $700
Failed A/C compressor $700
2 Failed fan motors $750
2 Failed Speed sensors $250
Evaporator coil leak $1200
I think that totals about $5300. This car has been my hell hole the last 10k miles. After it's fixed, I will be looking at a new Acura, Honda or Toyota replacement. No more American cars. It's a shame. I really enjoyed this car.....for 37k miles. Good luck to all.
That kind of $$ in 10k miles is way over what anyone should expect to shell out in repairs for any vehicle. I hope you find something really good as a replacement. Foreign or domestic.
If there are no (or very few, as with me) reliability issues, this is such a great car! I'm hoping to have at least a couple more years of trouble-free motoring before I blow my retirment money/kids college fund on my next car.
Currently in sunny Florida, returning to my buried under two plus feet of snow 300M tomorrow! Last Saturday was great: hopped on the plane with an exterior temp of 10 degrees, step off the plane several hours later to a temp of 75 degrees!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Thanks,
Hans
OK, I'll stop whining now, it's been a bad car week.
I've posted many times regarding the poor build quality of Chrysler products and the so called service centers. So far I'm out of pocket $0 because I invested in a warranty through 1sourceautowarranty, not because I won the Chrysler lottery and found the one car without defects.
Here's a great way to tell the reliability of a car. Simply go to the 1sourceautowarranty website and research the cost of a service contract. These are based on risk, which of course it tied to a car's reliability. To buy the top of the line Diamond Care 10yr/100k mile warranty with $0 deductible for a car with 7,000 miles costs the following:
Chrysler 300M - $1,449
Lincoln LS - $1,369
Pontiac Bonneville SSei - $1,199
Lexus GS300 - $1,199
Infiniti G35 - $1,199
Acura TL-S - $999
I chose these cars because they are most often compared to the 300M on price/content/performance. The next time I buy a car I'll consider ALL the costs of ownership. Do I want a $32,000 vehicle with $6,000 worth of repair bills, or does it make more sense to buy a $38,000 car with incredible reliability? Don't even get me started on resale value.
300M new $32,000 - 2 years later $12,000. The word is out, Chrysler couldn't build a reliable car on a bet.
"we're sorry" (the Chrysler rep also asked me if I had "purchased an extended warranty contract - DUH). If you read the Lemon Laws, it's virtually impossible to win a claim under them (its not for nothing auto companies pay for lobbyists). In a world where auto mechanics are billed at $100/hour, where parts are "removed and replaced" instead of being repaired, and where the dealer makes his money on parts and labor (typically 90%+ of total operating earnings), the costs of vehicle ownership are bound to rise. Interesting news story yesterday: GM, Ford and Chrysler are raiding the airlines for mechanics saying their auto mechanics, while still suffering from cultural stigma (i.e., "grease monkeys") are actually making "in the six figures". The union guy said they were going to get their share. This tells me the money to be made in the auto business now is on the repair side.
I'm looking at other cars, not in a rush. I am curious about one thing: I was in love with this car for 36K miles, and most of the other owners on this board appear to be very happy. My queston is: How many owners have actually achieved 75-100K miles on thier 300M without having as many repair problems as I have had?
Between the 2, I have driven over 125,000 miles with NO repairs. These were my first Chryslers ever, and I am currently considering a Pacifica as my 300M lease is up.
The point is...EVERY auto message board is filled with both satisfied and dissatisfied owners.
All make cars are composed of thousands of parts, some of wich will fail.
Your particular experience will vary depending on dumb luck, vehicle care, and dealer service.Two of these vriables are within your control.
As long as you are getting another car, taking another risk mind you, why not just get another M, one without all the problems. Most 300Ms are pretty reliable. I would be surprised to see you get another bad one. Try getting a used 2001, probably the best of the years, and do an extended test drive, get the dealer to let you take it home for the weekend and check it out against your negative experiences and see if it can pass the muster. Turn a negative experience into a positive one.
I just hate to see you walk away and become another regretful former owner like beach15, or fastdriver, fuzzywuzzy, etc.
My 99 with 54k miles has had very few problems..and the one's I did have were very minor. I continue to hope I'm one of the lucky ones...
BTW- I have yet to have a lemon in the many vehicles I've bought (or leased) in the past 15 years (all from the Big 3 -most from Chrysler). IMHO Chrysler's less than optimal attitude towards the customer is no different than most other makers. All expect you to "invest" in their extended warranties or they tend to blow you off. (Try doing a google search on "Toyota engine sludge".) Again, a good dealer can be critical to the best ownership experience as an advocate for their customers. I wish ALL carmakers would realize that.
Despite all of the above, I too would be loathe to do business with any company that treated me as badly as described in some posts.
Jon
You asked for reports on reliable cars w/65K+. Mine is a later build '99 w/69K miles. Although I bought it used w/49K miles on it, I think the owner was up front w/me as he told me that although one of the window motors was replaced, the rest of the car had been very reliable. He also told me it was his 2nd 'M--his first one (an early build '99) he said was a nightmare. I won't go into details, but I had the impression he worked out some kind of deal with the dealer to trade it in, get a new one w/a 75K mile warranty ($50 deductible) that he didn't have to pay for. He was a lawyer which may have worked in his favor. Anyway, between 49K and 69K I've had 1 1/2 problems. This weekend needed to get the electronic memory seat module replaced (with diagnostic/part & labor a little under $300). The only other problem was that, when the weather turned warm, the a/c wasn't working. But 5* diagnosed, said there was no leak of freon, rather it appeared that someone had left something lose so it leaked out--whatever; they added refrigerant and it has worked fine since. I drive it fairly hard at times and on roads w/potholes and the suspension is still tight as a drum. Note that the lightshow I had mentioned previously went away when I took the EZpass off of the rear-view mirror (that's where the sensor is so you can screw it up if you mount something big there). So mine's been fairly good.
Allow me to comment on the Honda you're considering. My mother just got one ('03 accord sedan), and the 4 cylinder model with leather, dual climate control and loaded w/all but side airbags we got a great deal on for 22K. Note that the 4 cylinder has variable valve timing, 160 hp, and very good pep. The lighter weight in front makes it handle better too, IMO, not to mention better gas mileage than the V6, and approximately 4K less dough. You might want to try it before deciding on the V6. The 6 will give you better passing power on the highway, but this 4 cylinder is surprising, plus w/the economy and handling benefits and less cost its a good deal. Just something for you to think about. Again, sorry your 'M was a dud. After hearing your story I'd have to think long and hard before buying another Chrysler. I know cars on the Acura and Lexus boards have some problems, but I haven't heard of anything like you experienced; that's simply incredible, and that they wouldn't work with you is a real slap in the face. If you haven't already, go up the Chrysler chain (call the manger's manager, and then his manager, etc.) of DMC to try to get some satisfaction.
pster - "trading this back into my local Chrysler dealer and telling him it's in perfect running condition with no repairs". Never happen! Ever bit of service you've ever had done by a DC shop is in an electronic file linked to your VIN number. The DC dealer would know in minutes if you were trading in a lemon or a cherry. Too bad the used car customer can't access the same information.
As to DC service, the dealerships we've dealt w/ vary from incompetent to helpful (2 Chrysler & 2 Dodge, currently w/ Dodge; last Chrysler shop was good, but they lost interest in doing anything else under warranty). However, the DC customer service was extraordinary. Forced one dealer to refund for work that shouldn't have been performed and for an associated alignment. Directed us to shop they believed was most competent and directed that shop to do whatever to make us happy.
Finally, I would have a real problem buying a car simply for utilitarian value. Owning a car is all about that overpowering "want-to" when you find a vehicle that justs knocks you over for its visual appeal and spec sheet. I think everyone here has felt that about their M. Its a shame that any business would squander that kind of attitude towards its products from any single customer. I like your formula for satisfaction. If I was your regional manager, I'd try to make it happen.