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So we sit tight for one more month.
APRIL 1st? WHY in the world would they pick THAT date? :-))
fastdriver
Normally, I have the light switch set to auto. Tonight, about 2 hours after I got home, my horn alarm starts going off. Key fob isn't doing anything. I open the door with the key, and it stops. Notice the lights are very dim.
Give it a jump start, and it starts right up. Starts up after shutting it down. Key fob works again. I'm getting ready to go in the house, but notice that the lights are still after the normal delay. I try turning the switch to the manual off position. Lights still stay on. No matter what position I put the light switch to, the lights (high beams) stay on. I notice that they are getting dim again.
Very weird - has anybody seen such behavior? Guess I'll have to take it in tomorrow.
What the Hunter does after providing a high precision dynamic balance is measure radial force components that would increase if everything else isn't within tolerance. The operator gets a computer screen readout with a total radial force and some component force numbers. The DC TSB on steering wheel vibration says the standard is 20#s or less total radial force. From talking to the Discount Tire supervisor and fitter that worked my problem, I gathered that their standard is around 25#s, w/ 25 to 30 #s being marginal or borderline.
They replaced one of mine that read 27#, but after they ran through the other checks. First they reverse the tire on the wheel and re-test. If that doesn't help they use the Hunter to check wheel roundness and run-out. If that is within spec, it's a problem tire.
Problem tires generally fall in 1 of 2 categories. Out-of-round or a "pull". The former is obvious and the latter is typically a slipped or angled belt in the construction.
Even on a 300M you probably wouldn't notice a tire with 25 to 30 #s total radial force on the Hunter, if it was mounted on the rear. But, it would shake the heck out of a 300Ms steering wheel if it was on the front. If the tire had a pull, you'd think you needed an alignment, but the alignment wouldn't fix the problem. The 300M is overly sensitive to the front tires due to a combination of steering gear and suspension components that, I guess, were supposed to give the driver more road feel. On a Ford Taurus you probably wouldn't notice an out-of-round front tire until it registered over 30 #s on the Hunter. More forgiving.
That's not to say the Yokos are bad. We are very pleased with the quietness of the ride and superior wet and dry traction compared to the Goodyears. Our original Goodyears included 1 "puller" & 1 "hopper" and the Goodyear warranty replacements for those 2 included 1 more "hopper". I think the problem is as much the sensitivity of the 300M as the manufacturing quality of the tires.
I've been marking time until I can get a decent set of tires, probably Yokos though I'd love to affort Michelin Pilot Sport AS.
They replaced my BCM for the flickering interior light show but it didnt solve the problem. It is obviously the dimmer switch for the interior dash lights as it only happens at the brightest position. I am now out of warranty and I just keep the switch just below full bright to prevent it from occuring.
I see that good old "5-STAR" service is still in effect! :-)))) Will they EVER get it?
Look under the back seat. There are some grounding wires back there that might have come undone. This MIGHT contribute to the problem.
fastdriver
The 2003 WDC site was supposed to be up on 21 Feb, but its 2002 site was still up last time I checked. You can go there and join as a member for 2003 if you are interested. This will be the major event for the club in the Midwest, so mark down the date. The first year attendees got free Edmunds T-shirts courtesy of ...maybe Pat?? It made the event.
Well it is April Fool's Day.
The funny part about the Goodyear dealership we visited at our DC 5*s recommendation was that the manager initially told me belts don't slip and tires don't cause pulling. That, after the DC service manager agreed with me that that was probably the problem. I've had about 4 tires in my 40 years of driving that had belt slippage. Can't balance them twice the same on a dynamic balancing machine.
Anyway, the Goodyear manager gave in under pressure from his distributor and after he proved to himself that the car pulled left when the bad tire was on the left and pulled right when it was on the right. Golly! Well he was not a happy peddler after our run in, PO'd him to give dollar credit on 2 new tires. He was glad to see us go and we swore never to return.
OTOH, our experience w/ Discount Tires in resolving our issues w/ our new Yokos was totally pleasant. They were determined to have a satisfied customer, even though they had to junk 3 brand new tires. I highly recommend them to anyone looking for tires.
"Well it is April Fool's Day."
I KNOW! That's what I mean! How many MORE tricks can they play?
fastdriver
catback exhaust system
K&N FIPK system
a JetChip
Xenon headlight conversion
larger throttle body
if any of ya'll have any suggestions that would be great, thanks
-Curtis
CEELO - Congrats on getting your your M. You're gonna love it. I can't help you with what you seek but its pretty likely someone on this post can.
"Why he continues to hang out here is beyond my comprehension."
So that NO ONE will ever go through what I did with Christine, "award-winning 5-STAR dealers' and factory reps! If my posts annoy you- skip over them!
And yes, my current car has been fantastic. Almost 2 years old, 22,700+ miles and not ONE problem!
Sorry if the truth hurts/annoys you!
fastdriver
As Fuzzywuzzy suggested - I keep mine inflated to 35psi also. You may want to try that. Mine are bigger than stock (235/55/17) but I don't think that would make them handle any differently. (unless you went even wider to 245's?)
You've been on this board from the start, so you know that 90% of the participants on this board are 300M owners and enthusiasts. It does get a little "annoying" to read the same old dealer complaints and negative news posts even though you've been out of your 300M for two years. I've run into some of the same incompetence and hard-sell service departments you have and I can tell you, they aren't limited to DC franchises. OTOH, I firmly believe there is something to being a good customer. That means more than plunking down your hard earned cash. I work all service depts hard. My first visit I ask to meet the SM and tell him what I'm looking for. When I bring in my first work, I make sure he sees me doing my part. I ask for discounts on bills over $500 and always get it, because they recognize me as a 'good customer'. If I get screwed, I move on. Cars are machines and any machine can be repaired to working order. In my experience, DC has always taken care of their warranty work. Even though I have spent some out-of-pocket dollars on repairs on my M, I regard it as being reliable. I'm happy for you that you've had a trouble-free experience with your Honda and I'm sure the folks on the Honda boards would be glad to hear about. I would kind of like to learn something about the 300M here.
Unlike you, when I plunk down that much money for a car, I don't expect to be visiting the dealer shop anytime soon. I certainly do not expect any $500.00 bills during a 2-3 year lease! I also do not "work all service depts hard". When I bring a car in for service, I EXPECT them to actually FIX the problem or resolve the issue- not necessarily the first time either, depending on the problem. I do NOT want to hear assine excuses from the dealer or the factory reps when I know there's a problem. A dealer shop is the LAST place I want to go unless absolutely necessary because they usually screw up more than they fix!
When they saw that my car looked like it just came off the showroom floor everytime it went in for service, should be enough of a CLUE for them that
I take car of my cars. I guess I expect too much when I expect them to take pride in their work and do their job as conscientiously as I do mine. Unfortunately, those days seem to be long gone. Many shops/people don't take pride in anything they do these days and think nothing of it. Customer "service" is a real rarity these days!
Sorry if my posts annnoy you. Just want to make sure people are aware and informed. Maybe if DC put as much money into their parts as they seem to be doing with the new Crossfire TV commercials and magazine ads, things would be better.
I find it quite ironic now that the current issue of Consumer Reports, check rates the 300M as "recommended", while several of the more expensive Mercedes models get a black mark for reliability! Go figure!
fastdriver
I think the point is that you are no longer having those experiences, and that you have recounted your issues on many occasions.
Perhaps you should consider linking your previous posts when you want to repeat things, rather than just saying the same things over and over.
I am no 300M apologist, but it is apparent from my hosting this board for the past couple of years that a some of you have had a LOT of problems and a LOT of you have not.
The experiences reported here are anecdotal. Nothing more and nothing less.
At any rate, let's move on. If you really need to pursue this conversation with indydriver, please do it offline.
Thanks.
For Transmission Service, the 5-star dealer offers a "drain and refill" service for about $50.00 vs a more complete "flush" service for about $120.00.
Same idea for Coolant Service, both "drain & replace" ($42.00) or "full flush" (at extra cost) are available.
This would be the first time for both of these service packages on the vehicle. Would appreciate some feedback on whether the more complete "flush" services are worth the money. Also, if going the "flush" route, is the money better invested in the trans service vs the coolant service? I am not yet committed to keeping this vehicle for the long term, but things might work out that way, so I may be prepared to take a long term view and pay the higher cost if it is really worth it.
I should also mention differential service. As far as I can tell, only a straightforward drain/replace service is offered. Is this right?
Thanks in advance for your quick advice.
Thank you for your diplomatic service in keeping this BB "on message" about a beautiful automobile.
Jon
fastdriver
Why do you have to replace the coolant at 31,000 miles? Isn't it good for 100,000 according to DC? Don't go by the dealer's recommendations or you'll go broke. Follow your owner's manual for the type of driving that you do. As stated above, the dealer makes the most money from their repair shop and not selling new cars.
fastdriver
That switch has changed the "A" schedule recommendation for transmission maintenance to none under normal service.
Something to consider.
Coolant-- You should have coolant that is good to 100K in the M. I know because I changed it out at 2 years as the 99 owner's book said, only to get a call from the dealer saying "whoops, er...you had 100K stuff in there and we didn't notice til we turned the petcock and let it run out." The 100K stuff is way more expensive. They split the cost with me. I think it was $18 for my half. I would say if you go to 100K with the radiator stuff then a flush would be appropriate. Make sure they take care with the threads on the radiator, I was told this is a plastic tank and if the threads get butchered it can be expensive.
On the tranny--I will be going in shortly, I am at about 55K now, and at 60K I will get another tranny and differential service and ask about a flush of the tranny this time. First time, I just had a regular service.
catback, you can go that or the Hugo basic design. If you want the dual look.
K&N FIPK, nice system but pricy IMHO
Jet Chip, forget about it. It is garbage.
Xenon conversion. I hate that word (xenon) do you mean the xenon want-a-bes ($10)? True HID's (about $400), or the special's HID head lamps ($1300)?
Sweet engine very poor numbers.
Seems like slightly reworked nineties caravan.
I believe that I read that the Pacifica will have a higher performance version (300+ hp) coming down the road...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I think you should grease it from the top too
I'n trying to avoid yet another $250 5* invoice!! (albeit my error....)
This is cool... no longer have to step out of the car to go through the drive-thru, rather embarassing for both myself and the car I must admit.
M3