Chrysler 300M

naatz1

I have posted this back in May (?) but using the overhead console 'computer' I have measured 27 mpg twice over 50 miles of 70 mph freeway driving cruise control fairly ideal conditions (3 in car, no wind, fairly flat terrain, 60-75 deg so no AC, <3000 miles on odo, no starts/stops). I stress that is about ideal and don't ever expect to get any better at those speeds. Now I checked and with 4000 miles we average 18.5 mpg last week in 200 miles of city driving and we don't really have a lead foot. We just took it on it's first 500 mile trip Th-Sat and got 23.8 in 120 miles of measured freeway (autobahn like) with some start stops, all AC, some 75-80 mph passing on the I-35 autobahn (like I tell my kid, when I am passing someone and a pickup pulling a boat comes on me doing 85, I drive 80 to get around and let this crazy guy by, but normally I don't drive that fast as tempting as it might be with a 300M ... I have driven a lot in Germany as their semitrucks don't drive 90mph, just a few in the USA).
Anyway, that is what a new 2004 300M base can get in ideal and more typical conditions, which seems great to me after driving a Jeep GC the past few years lucky to get over 20mpg on the freeway so I am happy with the 300M! Unfortunately my wife gets it back tomorrow, but she says she wants the 4WD Jeep back in Oct so I will get to try out FWD this winter.

fuzzywuzzy

I got about 28-30 im my 2000 I had. With the AC on. All HW trips. In town I got about 22-25. MPG isn't important to me. I really don't care. I drive what I like, how I like & if I have to pay $$ for gas so be it. Maybe your car could benifit from an intake or exhaust system. Maybe your gas has changed in your area? How's your tire pressure?

joe53051

Hello everyone,
I'm new here, and new to the 300M... Seeing that I'm about to take delivery on my new-used 2000 300M. I have a few questions though before I do so. What is all involved in a 60k service? Also how do I know if my car has the performance group, or however it's called out. Has anyone else had problems with the AC on their 300M? Mine doesn't work, and I'm having that diagnosed prior to me taking delivery of it. I just want to get these things cleared up before I buy the car. I'm having fun driving it (I work at the dealership, and fell in love with the car). I just want some pointers before I go overboard and get myself into something bad...
Thanks in advance,
Joe Reichard

intrepidspirit

In my previous posts about gas mileage, my major complaint was that the gas mileage on the 300M got worse from the 2000 to 2003 model years, while the smog index reduced from 1.00 to .48, which, I believe, would reduce the gas mileage. If changes were made to the engine to reduce gas mileage, I feel that the EPA gas mileage rating should be changed accordingly.

One other unfavourable variable is that I live in Southern California and there have been numerous changes in gas additives over recent years that may have reduced efficiency to gain better emissions. Also, there may have been further EPA requirements on engine emissions that may have caused Chrysler to tweak the engines or the catalytic convertors for California cars. I know some of the gas mileage posted on this forum is not attainable in California and it could be as a result of the above factors.

And, Fuzzy, I do make sure my tires are well inflated -- I keep them at 36 psi. My wife's car has the tire pressure monitoring system and hers are at 34-37 (morning vs. afternoon).

I guess I have to live with the decreasing gas mileage if it is mandated by the EPA. However, I feel DC (or any manufacturer) should be compelled to reveal the new lower gas mileage ratings rather than the out-dated higher ratings achieved before the changes. That's my main beef!

bigmike5

On the A/C issue. A few who post here have reported problems of late with their 99M's. My 99 is just over 6 years old/70K miles, and, knock on wood, the A/C is still working fine in KY. On the PHP issue, I recall that initially the PHP cars had 16" wheels instead of the 17's" that came on the standard car. That may be one way to tell. If the car will go over 120, that is probably another way, as the standard model was limited to about 116 mph. I think Fuzzy had his PHP model paced by a Viper to 152 mph at one time as he was pegging the meter on the speedo, so the PHP cars will move. I would be reluctant to buy the car if the A/C is not functioning properly. Repairs on those babies usually start at $600 or better. Maybe just low on R-whatever, but I would want a 30 day return warranty in writing to make sure it is right. Good luck.

fuzzywuzzy

I'm glad I don't have the 300M anymore with the AC problems that have come up. I'm in South FL. The AC was never off. You need it down here year round. Funny thing, when I rented a 300M last summer I forgot it wasn't a PHP model so as I was doing 90, I floored it to pass someone & forgot the limter was on it. As I got to about 115 or so it kicked in. Scared the heck out of me.

donnie

Newbie--I bought a 2000 M in Feb '01. It was owned by Daimler/Chrysler, used by a sales rep., I was told. It had 29K on it and my wife and I love it except for road noise on coarse pavement. I had a problem with RF door latch, cost about $170 and just last month with 55K on it the A/C quit. Dealer said it was the evaporator (mucho labor cost) so we had to shell out $900+!!! Would this happen on a Japanese car? Well, we still love the styling and handling. Good luck with yours.

tayl0rd

YES, it would/could happen on a Japanese car! Now ask the question of how many of the THOUSANDS of people with 300Ms have had the same problem. I think you'll find it few and far between. I am so sick of this "Japanese cars are kings of quality" mentality that I sometimes wish the government would just BAN all Japanese cars from being sold in the U.S.!!

Also, you need to read between the lines. "This car was used by a sales rep" is double-speak for "This car had the CRAP beat out of it by somebody who didn't have to pay a cent for service and probably NEGLECTED all the necessary services since he/she didn't have to live with the car. If it died, he/she could just get another one free of charge. We use the "used by a sales rep" line to lure some [non-permissible content removed] into thinking it was exceptionally well taken care of, but we know full well it wasn't. That line just makes it easier to dump this heap on somebody."

But I'm not bitter about those tactics.:-p

laurasdada

With 62,000+ miles on my '99M the AC still blows cold. My '95 Intrepid did have to have the evaporator replaced a couple of thousand miles out of warranty, though. The dealer wrote it up as though the car was still under warranty, bless his heart so (if I remember and maybe I've blocked out the memory!) it didn't cost me much. Otherwise, $1k...!

And Taylord, sorry my friend. I've (and my family) have owned many Japanese cars. From our experience, they are better built and more reliable. Although I can't complain too much about my M (other than some very wide panel gaps on the passenger side...and the window regulators. And the tranny module. I think that's it. The two recalls don't count, do they?)

I do love this car, don't get me wrong. If not, I would have traded it for a new TL, FX35 or G35. Although I still may...

illini4

The 95 Intrepid evaporator was covered by a hidden warranty up to 70,000 miles. The supplier had skipped a step in the fabrication process, leaving some residual acid in the evaporator which eventually ate through on 1000s of Chrysler cars, minivans, and trucks. I had the same experience with a '94 Vision TSI.

silverbullet4

Early 2000 PHG M's used up the remaining 16" wheels from '99; my PHG 2000 had 17" and the Pilot tires.
You'll have to do a search on this forum to find the pictures of the front brakes to easily detect a PHG. I had the window sticker available when I bought mine. Good luck!

exshoman

Been a long while since I've posted. Got a 2K silver 300M, with 73K mostly trouble-free miles. About a month ago I noticed that my steering wheel was "melting" near the top. I'm already on my second steering wheel, the first being replaced under warrantee for the same problem a bit over two years ago.

I went and talked to the service mgr at the dealership where I bought it, and questioned how leather could "melt". I rarely even touch the top that part of the wheel. Never had this problem with leather steering wheels, even after 20+ years.

He called Chrysler, and of course they refused to do anything. Said it was "normal" wear and tear, and the wheel was warranted for only 12 months anyway.

I'm just wondering if I should give up the fight and just get me a wheelskin cover, or try and raise a bigger stink with chrysler (maybe try the Better Business Bureau). I'm not about to pay for a new steering wheel out of my own pocket - I figure it'll do the same thing in a couple years.

Any opinions?

intrepidspirit

My wife and I both had our steering wheels replaced (2000 and 2001 models). In both cases it was very minor, but we felt as you did, it shouldn't happen, especially if you seldom even touch the part of the steering wheel that is "melting". In both cases, the replacement wheel felt harder and rougher than the original, but we had no further problems (both cars are gone now). In both cases the replacement was done in the latter stages of the warranty period, so the 12 months you are referring to must have been for the replacement wheel.

Similarly, we each had the dash pad replaced due to a seam that slit on the same place in each car. I am waiting to see what will happen to our 2003 300M's.

I wish you luck in dealing with your issue -- you will need lots! Once out of the warranty period, items that wear out or fail are difficult to replace at the expense of the manufacturer. If a TSB had been issued, you would have more ammunition. However, it is most likely that the "buyer beware" rule will be applied -- meaning that the quality of vehicles differs from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model. These differences usually create price differences and you "get what you pay for."

DC would obviously be much more sensitive to a safety issue than a "wear and tear" issue. I know I'll be keeping my eye on my steering wheel and dash pad during the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty period, because I think it will be a lost cause after that.

Again -- good luck!

bigmike5

Complain to the NHTS office. Seems to me that a melting,crumbling, steering wheel would present a safety hazard if it completely failed while driving. The feds have more pop than BBB. They might direct a recall for a safety defect.

exshoman

Thanks, but I'm not sure it would be classified as a safety hazard, since it's just the cover. I'm just upset that it's happened twice to me. I'm not going to put up a fight if there's zero chance of winning.

I'm just wondering if the deterioration will continue even if I put a wheelskin on. It's gone downhill quickly in the few weeks that I noticed it starting. It's just weird. Leather doesn't do this.

So far, no problem with the dash (knock on plastic & fake wood).

I'm planning on still keeping this for quite a bit longer (it's nice not to have car payments), and who knows, it might be ready to hand over to my 13 year old daughter in a few years (yikes - that's a scary thought).

laurasdada

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/generations/articles/102565/articl- e.html?tid=edmunds.h..wkedmunds.seealso.6.*

lflowers

I received this week's copy of Autoweek last night. It has an article on the new 300C SRT-8 hi performance version of the 300C. They've bored out the hemi to 6.1 liters and (if I remember correctly) boosted it to around 470hp. Autoweek estimated the 0-60 time at around 5 seconds!
Now if it just didn't look like a 300C.
Oh well, maybe the Charger will look better (it's supposed to use the same version of the hemi).
By the way, it's supposed to be available in January.

Lynn Flowers
McKinney, Texas

alcatrazt2

Hey everyone. I hope you all are doing great. Haven't posted here in a while, stuck up with work. Eh... I have a quick question. The other day I was comming out of Carls Jr., and like all exits, the bottom of my car was going to scrape so I took the exit slowly. I turned my wheels to the right, and punched the gas (since a car was comming very fast) and what I noticed was that the Right rear tire (maybe left, most likely right) scraped itself to something...It felt as if the frame came upon the wheel since it was very deep. Anyone have any ideas? I looked at the tire, everything was okay, nothign looks bad since the car only has 15 K miles...What i noticed was that clearance from the bottom of teh shock to the tire wasn't very much...can this be the problem? (P.S. I have stock lift and i have stock tires...)

intrepidspirit

Since you are not certain if it was the right or left rear tire, is it possible it could be a front tire? When turning very sharply and accelerating, the front tires can feel and sound like they are hitting something in the wheelwell. I would expect to see some evidence (scrape mark) on the rear tire if it hit something.

These dips can be deadly, especially if they are unmarked and unexpected. I posted a few months ago on my wife's 2001M that bottomed out and the engine seized 2 blocks later. The insurance company wrote it off and she got $19,166 (less the $500 deductible).

jayrider

My 02 Concorde LTD has been great for 22k miles. What a nice ride. Since I share the drive train with the M, the occasional problem with first start auto trans shift delay appears common. Every few months when starting up and shifting out of park, the car acts like it is in neutral.
I can sit for 30-40 seconds and nothing. Then it pops in and everything is fine. Dealer messed with it and TSB's are posted but it still occurs. Easy solution is that as soon as you feel the delay, shift back to park and shut off the engine. The restart is always fine. Have a 100k warranty so not too worried and it rarely happens but it still makes you wonder.
I sort of like the styling of the M better but the bigger trunk comes in handy.

silverbullet4

I had my 2000M wheel replaced during the warranty period. It deteriorated right where I placed my hand while turning (between 12 and 2 o'clock). The replacement wheel felt like cardboard to the touch (cheap). Now, at 60k it is also developing a melting/wrinkled look in the same spot. Maybe the excessive hand pressure required by the heavy PHG low-speed steering is part of the problem. This car is great on the highway, but I prefer my daughter's VW Passat, or even my M in Law's Camry for running errands. (let the flaming begin)

easyrider300m

what's actualy happening is that the steering wheel has a thick layer of dye on the top surface of the wheel. A good leather wheel would have the color absorbed into the leather through a process called drum dying. Our wheels are probably made with the dye just sprayed on the surface. Eventually when the hot sun heats up the wheel and you handle it, the dye layer can start "peeling" off. You can scrape it off with your fingernail.

My last car, a 93 Lincoln Mark VIII had a much better quality wheel. It looked like new when I sold it at 7 yrs old with almost 90k on it.

bigmike5

Maybe the shifter is not seating exactly in the D position slot on the tranny console. Sometimes if it is just off a small amount it will not go into gear. Try pulling the lever all the way into the Autostick gate and then see if it shows up as there on the dash indicator and shifts into Drive quicker.

bigmike5

All you M'ers eat your hearts out starting tomorrow, as I will be cruising up to Detroit for the Woodward Dream Cruise. Car selection this year will be the 04 Medium Spiral Gray Vette with the Commemorative striping pattern done in Copper. Going to give the M a weekend off. People in Detroit assure me that all roads and on-ramps will be paved as smooth as a baby's butt to accomodate my sportier ride, however somehow I don't believe it, so we will likely play pinball with the ruts, holes, and who knows what else that the area roads are famous for. I will shoot some film of the best cars I see, and see if Fastdriver will post em for me later on his site so all can enjoy. Hoping for power this year and no rain. Be there or be square. lol

illini4

We'll be heading that way tomorrow too. We decided not to go last year because of the power outage, so we are really looking forward to this year's cruise. We spend Friday afternoon walking through the Ford, Chevy, GM and Chrysler areas in Birmingham and Royal Oak, then sit along Woodward at 13 Mile Friday evening and Saturday and watch the awesome cars go by. There's nothing like the Dream Cruise.

naatz1

So I am confused, which type of M steering wheel are you referring to? I have a 5 mon old 300M with the wood top 1/3 wheel (bottom 2/3 is leather) and I don't see this dye. The dealer assured us the wheel and dash are a coated real wood, even though I was suspicious it was fake (he also said the same for the chrome wheels even tho I've read those are plastic coated). Not sure what's up, we bought it, but would be nice to know if there is any special care needed. Thanks from SE MN. (PS the steering wheel 12 oclock area leather on my < 4 year old Jeep Gr Cherokee is starting to flake, so I get concerned).

fuzzywuzzy

Only talking about the full leather wheel. You have the other stlye, & if you have an 04 300M then you do not have real chrome wheels those are the ones that have the chrome plastic. Some late 03's might also.

morseland

I just got our 300M out of the shop. It needed a new compressor and rear brakes, but I got the car detailed and it looks and drives like new inside and out. Although the Magnum (Magnesium Pearl coat) has the power and speed, the Steel Blue 1999 300M is still a fun car thats easy to drive. Style wise you be the judge. These pictures really do not give either car's looks justice.

http://home.comcast.net/~morseland/index.html

silverbullet4

Thanks for sharing the pics. That thing got a hemi? ;-)

Slow day today, so I clay bar'ed and Zeino'ed my 2000 M. Bright Silver paint still shines up good!

bigmike5

Bill-- Nice pics of the rides. Like the bra on the Magnum. Did you get the Hemi? I've only seen one with the Hemi badge so far. They are moving slow in KY. One dealer had them at $99 over invoice and is throwing in $200 worth of gasoline. Probably the lesser models. Also saw a lot of them on the dealer's lots up in Detroit. It looked like the Pacifica start all over again.

bigmike5

Fuzzy-- If you are out there still, do you have the part number for the better set of OEM brake pads available for the M. I recall that there were 2 sets, and one was better and more expensive than the other. I think you put the better ones on your M and like them. If you got the number I would appreciate it. I had my slotted rotors turned the other day and thought maybe it would be a good time to go to the better OEM pads rather than sticking with the Carbon Metallics. I have never really liked the C-M's that much so if you got a number let me know.

illini4

The original equipment pads are made by Wagner. They are the same as Wagner Thermo Quiet, P/N MX 730A. I bought a pair from autopartsgiant.com a couple years ago for about $36 plus shipping and handling. I think Chrysler gets about $130 for them.

I heard through the grapevine that you were at Copper Canyon in Southfield around 7:00 Friday night. We were there at the same time - wish we had known and could have had a beer together. We stayed at the Hampton next door. Maybe next year.

morseland

Dear Silverbullet & Bigmike,

     The Magnum has the Hemi. I took a friend out last night for a ride and he was quite impressed with the car's performance. I am getting better at launching the car, using a little brake and taking off the traction control to get a little tire squeal. The Hemi really kicks in at about 30 miles an hour and keeps pulling well beyond legal speeds. The R/T has a double personality from quiet and stylish sport wagon to supercar. The 300M is no slouch but the R/T gives you acceleration at a whole different level.
    I can't believe how good the 300M looks next to the Magnum. And the brakes, transmission, windows, everything is working perfectly. But I just noticed the dreaded dashboard crack at the right side air bag. I guess I'll have Dr. Vinyl fix the crack ($125 minimum) with no guarantees.

intrepidspirit

Good luck with Dr. Vinyl.

I had the dashboard replaced under warranty on my 2000 leased 300M. The dealer said it cost them over $1,000 to do it (mostly labor -- stripped down to the fire wall).

When my wife's 2001 did the same thing, they tried to repair it -- they told us the guy that does this does such a great job, we wouldn't even be able to tell. The color was off, the dash was raised along the crack and it soon began splitting again. We demanded (and got) a new dash for her car as well.

I'm holding my breath on our current 2003 300M's...

fuzzywuzzy

I have no idea on that. Been too long.

silverbullet4

The black plastic thingie under the chin of my M has broken off almost all the way across. It is hanging forlornly down a couple of inches from the ground. This is no doubt a result of my driving my son to Scout campouts, sometimes across plowed fields and harvesting weeds and small shrubs with the thing. Any thoughts on the cost to replace this thing at a dealer? Should I visit a junkyard and do it myself? What kind of fasteners are used? Thanks in advance for any insights.

Silver

intrepidspirit

Sorry, don't know the cost to replace. However, it would be a good idea to do so. My wife's 2001 300M had a tear in that part and her car was totalled when she went too fast over a dip and tore a hole in the oil pan. In retrospect, I wonder if the condition of the black plastic thingie contributed to the car bottoming out...

illini4

It's rivited on, and you can drill out the rivits and attach a new air dam with bolts & nuts. Easy to do, and I don't think the replacement air dam is expensive - maybe $20 or so. Alternative is to remove and leave off.

silverbullet4

I checked with my local dealer. Chin piece is indeed riveted on and a replacement is $34. Rather than buy a rivet gun, jack stands, etc., I am going to be lazy and let them do it for total cost of < $100. Meantime I sawed off the remains. I believe I saw an old post that said the chin piece helps direct air into the radiator. Considering my locale, I won't take a chance by leaving it off. Car companies don't install one nickel's worth of non-essential pieces.

bigmike5

Yeah-- We got to the Copper Canyon Brewery at 7:00 p.m. and it wasn't very crowded. We had my wife's sister and brother-in-law along for dinner. I was wearing my maroon Club shirt. I had a great slab of ribs and the beer sampler--7-5 ounce glasses of various blends they brew. I could only handle 3 of them. The stouts and ales were too bitter for me. We saw some Cruisers coming in as we were leaving, and I think they were at the Embassy Suites-Southfield too because the guy had a metallic blue 67 Corvette convertible, and that was what I saw parked outside. Had a great time. Let's try to get the club back there next year, along with Pat and Sylvia [from Edmunds] for the Cruise and Plant tour. What say?

illini4

I'll definitely be there next year - we've been to 3 so far. Once you're hooked on the dream cruise, you can't stay away. We live in the Columbus, Ohio area so its only about a 3 hour drive. If there's a club function, we'd most likely attend. I thought the Copper Canyon brews were pretty good. I went with the India Pale Ale and the one called Copper Canyon something.

silverbullet4

After the dealer replaced the chin spoiler I tackled replacing my burned out map lights. A previous poster described the method, and I did it from memory. There is a philips head screw at the front of the overhead console. After removing that, pry the sides down near the rear. Pull hard to force the spring clips, allowing the whole unit to dangle by the cables. The bulb sockets can be popped out to facilitate replacement of lamps. Be sure and wipe off any fingerprints, or the lamps will not last long. The unit pops back in a lot easier than it came out.

PS They had 8 new Vipers for sale. I thought they were all spoken for. Just more hype, I guess.

dscruggs

Hello Fastdriver.

Are you still here?

BTW Silver Bullet I have been without my front air dam for over a year with no problems.

Is anyone still here other than BigMike? Hi Mike!

300M Mm Mmm Good!

Seems a bit like a ghost town in here.

Don

easyrider300m

Gee---I don't know Don--it's like most posters just disappeared. They all must be hangin out at that other 300M board. Yeah, I wonder what happened to Fastdriver. Sure enjoyed his posts.

This place used to rock. Now it's dead as a rock. Guess the other board is the place to be.

Easy

lflowers

I'm still around after all these years! I check this forum most every day, only post when I have something worth saying.
My 2000 M is just about to clock over to 95K miles. Still lovin' it, still can't find anything else I like as much (especially the 300C!!!).
If I have to buy a car anytime soon perhaps a new GTO or the soon to be introduced new Mustang GT.
But as long as my M is as reliable and fun to drive as it has been for 95K miles, I'm driving it!!

Lynn Flowers
McKinney, Texas

rstilp

I'm still here on occassion. Dream Cruise should be a Club function next year, especially if there is a Brampton tour available.
About to hit 90k on my 2000 and I will be retiring the end of Oct. so I won't be putting on as many miles.
I'm kind of anxious to see the Dodge Charger in '06. Hopefully that's my next "BABY".
Rick

intrepidspirit

I have a speaker problem that seems like it should be associated with fastdriver's Christine!

One of the right door speakers has a loud resonance with certain base tones -- it is very noticeable when it happens. I took my car into my 5* Dodge dealer and, after inspection, they indicated that the center speaker needed to be replaced. They had to order it and I got it replaced last week. Surprisingly, it seemed to clear up the problem.

However, when I drove my car this morning, it happened again -- just as bad, if not worse. I called to arrange to take it in again tonight -- this time I wanted them to listen to it so they could hear where the problem was. When I went out to the car at noon, it would not repeat the problem. Then it dawned on me -- it only happens in the early morning! This is the only time I've heard it over the past several months.

So now I'm wondering what would cause this distortion only in the morning. It has been very hot here lately and cools down only to the mid seventies at night, so I don't think it could be the morning cold.

I have second thoughts about taking the car in tonight as planned, because I don't want to experience that dreaded "could not duplicate problem" thing! It doesn't work for me to take it in in the morning (when the problem actually exists).

Does anybody have any ideas what may cause this distortion in the early (7-9 a.m.) morning?

I didn't see this problem on fastdriver's site, so I guess this was one problem Christine didn't experience...

bigmike5

Speaker problem--I had the problem with bass resonance on my lower driver door a few months ago. Once it started I knew the speaker had cracked and was a gonner. I replaced the pair [the passenger side as a preventive maintenance item after 6 years] and kept the old good speaker as a spare. 2-Speaker replacement with labor was $138.

Dream Cruise-- I agree with Rick. The big issue is getting Dieter to allow a tour of the plant again. I've been told that they recently let a Prowler group go thru the plant, so that may indicate an opportunity exists for next year. I would definitely be up for coordinating the event again if there is interest. It was spectacular for cars and weather this year. And...we had power. It will be held next year on Saturday, August 20, 2005.

My sources--and I have many--tell me that several Chargers have been built in Brampton and my dealer expects it to be a good seller when it hits the market. C & D had a story on it this week, but the neon green color they chose for their rendition turned me right off. Hopefully, it will look better in person--didn't we say that about the 300C too???

silverbullet4

I filled my tank in the morning. That evening, while running errands the gas guage started flipping between "full" and "empty" (complete with warning lignt). This went on for about an hour. The next morning--no problem. Go figure.

2000 w/PHG

laurasdada

Ok, we've had the well known "Light Show." I've had the "Climate Control Show." And now Silverbullet has had the "Gas Guage Show." How entertaining...!

My '99 M just passed 63k miles and continues to be a joy. I really have the urge (not the money, of course) to buy a new car and while there are many great choices out there, nothing compels me to replace my M. I'm thrilled to read posts of high(er) mileage Ms still running strong and keeping their owners happy.

I'm glad the new C is a hit, I think our M was underappreciated (and under-served by DC!). While the C styling has grown on me, our M is simply a better looking car.

Keep posting folks!