Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) #01-01-37-008 Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) 1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
Condition Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:
Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on. Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on. There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on. Cause Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.
Correction Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:
Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode. Remove the fixed mast radio antenna. Open the hood and install fender covers. Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure: Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle. Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.
Important Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.
Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm. Lower the hood. Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure: On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw. Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin. Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl. Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel. Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out. Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it. With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape. Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover. Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module. Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures. Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:
Important It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.
Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541). Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition. From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal. Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl. Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover. Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place. Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind. Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time. Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base. Lower but do not close the hood. Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
Raise the hood. Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips. Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.
Important Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.
Install the wiper arm assemblies. Position the wiper blades just below the black marks in the windshield. Install the retaining nuts. Tighten Tighten the retainers to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Reconnect the washer hoses. Remove the fender covers. Close the hood. Parts Information Part Number Description 12345097 (In Canada use P/N 10953479) Adhesive, Weatherstrip 12345739 (In Canada use P/N 10953541) Sealant, RTV Silicone
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time D2118 Seal, HVAC Module to Body 1.3 hrs Add Actuator, Air Inlet Door - Replace 1.0 hr This is a unique labor operation for use only with this bulletin. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
Jeff, How were you treated at Dave Smiths Motors? Did they have the truck you wanted in stock? Did you have to put a $ 5000 deposit down? Been trying to deal with Valley. Did you have a hard time getting the 3.73 rear end with 8.1? TIA Steve
Nice to see a post from Canada! My truck was built there and imported to the States. Went to GM Service on Sat. am to discuss fuel gauge issue and get my vin in their system for warranty purposes. Interesting conversation
Me: My fuel gauge doesn't climb all the way to F when I fill the tank completely, 100% full to the top.
Them: Well, since this truck was imported from Canada it had to have a conversion package put on it before it could come into the US. It might be that the gauge is reading in liters instead of gallons.
Me: (to myself) Here we go. He's thinking: girl with a big truck = girl that doesn't have a clue -My thinking: Don't start this crap with me, I'm no dummy. I say: Well...liters or gallons F = Full doesn't it? A reading in liters or gallons shouldn't make any difference... a Full tank of gas is a full tank of gas, don'tcha think.....
Them: Well, we'll have to take a look at it. If it is a problem resulting from the conversion, the people you bought the truck from are responsible for fixing it. If it's not a conversion issue, then it will be corrected and covered under warranty.
Appointment on Thursday to check it out. (bummer I'll have to drive the little car) Will post results.....
Personally - I think the sending/sensor/float is off. Liters my butt!
PS: I got 12.5 mpg/highway at 65 mph on cruise control during a holiday trip. Your right..it ain't no honda :>)
The owners manual talks about a 7500 mile "drive axle service" (500 miles for rear if towing), then only requires fluid level checks from then on. Any guidance/info on this? Thanks.
Which trans? Depends on motor since the LT package only comes with Automatic.
owenm1: the service is to change the rear differential fluid @ 7500 miles or 500 miles of towing, whichever comes first. This is the point where the ring and pinion gear have "worn in" to each other (sorry, trouble explaining it) and the fluid should be changed out for fresh.
Another note, Allison recommends swapping the transmission spin-on filter @ 5000 miles, too.
Thanks for the info obyone! I'll be heading to my dealer tomorrow with your post in my hand. Lauriet1, I don't know what your dealer is smoking but it can't be good. I don't have litres or gallons marked on my gas guage and neither does anyone else. A gas tank is full or empty and every fraction in between. I'm with you on this one, the sending unit or float must be out of whack. I thought my truck was made in the USA. Maybe we should just trade trucks. Do you like green?
Does your odometer clock in miles or kms? Do you have mph above km on your speedometer or below it? Do your temperature gauges read in Celsius or Fahrenheit?
I know this is foolish, but I think these guys are trying to jerk me around I thought having some info on a "Canadian truck" might be helpful. With that ammo in hand, I'll be sure to ask them what they're smokin'. I do like the green but it shows too much dirt, so I think I'll keep my light pewter metallic model.
I was wondering about changing the oil in the rear axle since my owner's manual state that "Check rear/front axle fluid and add fluid as needed". Nothing about changing the fluid at 7500 miles! Mine already have 18000 miles.(I own a 1999 Silverado 4.8 with a 5 speed manual trans and 3.42 axle.
My odometer clocks in kilometers only. The speedometer reads in kilometers only and the temp gage is in Celsius only. Temperature and speed are the only metric measurements that most Canadians including myself understand. We still think in miles, gallons, pounds, acres, feet and yards for everything else even though we've had the metric system for over 20 years. stef7, you don't have to worry about changing the oil in your front and rear differentials. It will last for years and many thousands of miles (like 150,000) before you may want to change it. The main thing is to make sure it is filled to the proper level. A check once or twice a year is sufficient.
There is a sticker on the door of my truck indicating that it was imported by Mooney Imports. So basis what you're telling me about your dash, mine must have had the face place changed out and the computer reset. Given that I just noticed there was a clip on the dash which was not completly locked in, looks like someone was in there.
My speedometer reads in Miles and I believe my odometer is reading miles as well. The engine temp gauge for example goes from 160 low, 210 middle (I don't recall the upper notch reading). The trans temp gauge begins at 100. The truck is at the GMC Dealer today so I guess we'll know the verdict soon.
It's just a pain in the butt having to fight over who's going to be responsible for fixing the problem. GM will probably tell me that it's conversion related (cuz I didn't buy the truck there and most dealers don't want to do work on trucks they didn't sell). In which case I'll have to go back to the guys I bought it from, who have already told me that they're not responsible for it, their importer is. Big PITA huh?
When you stated your gas mileage - did you compensate for your oversize tires? The odometer will be off by the same factor as the speedometer.
For example if you multiply your indicated speed by 1.1 to get your actual speed, then you should multiply your gas mileage by this same factor. In this example if you calculated your mileage to be 12mpg, it would actually be 13.2mpg once you compensate for the oversize tires.
This also means that you should be performing your routine services 10% sooner. In this example a 10,000 mile service should be done at 9000 miles indicated on your speedo. If you put your tires on a new truck, this would give you 10% more warranty for free. Your 36k warranty would become a 39.6k warranty. What a deal!
Stay in the tundra topics. I have a hypertech programmer (HPIII) which corrected the speedo. I have checked it and it is right on doesnt read under or above the actual milage
What false information did I post? I never claimed you had this problem - in fact I started my post with: "When you stated your gas mileage - did you compensate for your oversize tires? "
I think that the information I posted would be helpful for someone with oversize tires and no hypertech programmer.
I am having the same problem like indian4 does (Post 893). I got about 500 miles on my 8100 2500HD. Did not drive for about 2 weeks and transmission just locked up. SES light was on. After awhile transmission works again, able to drive but SES was still on. On the day driving to dealer, SES is off. My truck is still in dealer after 2 days. They mention smthing about software reflash but problem is still there.
I had the Allison tranny replaced twice on my Sierra 2500HD in the first 7000 mi.The first time they didn't reflash it and the new trans was no better than the first.I recomended reflashing when they replaced it the second time it's been perfect for the last 9000 mi.Mine wouldn't downshift when I stopped or braked hard.I read posts here from somone who's truck got stuck in reverse and somone else in whipples forum(before they shut it down)who's truck got stuck in 5th.Both transmisions were replaced W/O reflashing and still work fine as far as I know. kip
Has anyone else had a problem with getting an exhaust (converter type)smell in the cab when at a stop light? 2001 dually 8.1/Alli,ext cab. If so any luck getting it fixed?
I was wondering if anyone has installed a cat-back exhaust system on their truck yet. If so could you tell me which one you used and what kind of mileage difference did you get if any. Thanks
wow ! you get good gas mileage ! my 2500hd crew cab 4x4 gets around 9 city. i wish it did get 12.5 mpg. only problem for me is the whine when it idles and during take off in first ( i do have the allison 5 speed) i would like to dual it out. just not ready yet.
I'm averaging 8 miles per gallon. all town driving. 8.1L/allison/4.10 gears. 430 miles on truck. i'm guessing it will get a touch better once the truck breaks in more.
Picked up my truck Friday Nite. Filled up on Saturday am - same problem - back to GM Dealer again. Plenty po'd now. First huge snowstorm and my 4X4 is in the shop... :>(
Yep bobsquatch...it's the same dealer who fed me the stuff on it being a conversion package problem the first time and they're feeding it to me again.
Now the GM Service guy wants me to provide them with the import statement, which they claim the dealer who sold me the truck should have given me. They (the GM Dealer) say the statement will show all the items done when it was imported. They said "it's possible that the tank was changed in the conversion". Bullcrap...I spoke with the importer this morning, he advised me that all they do is change out the faceplate on the dash and re-calibrate the computer from KM to Miles and there is no "import statement", just a couple of forms required by the US Govt (form 7501 and a bond statement). He's made an appointment on my behalf with the GM Dealer that he deals with exclusively and has assured me it will be fixed. His opinion is that the dealer I went to just doesn't want to be bothered. I think they want the import statement so they can try and find something else to blame the problem on.
It's not like I didn't spend any money there. Since the truck was in anyway, I had them do the recommended 15,000 mile service - (Oil, filter, lube, air and gas filter change, new PVC, injector cleaner, $189.95 - I know...its alot of money, please don't beat me up over it). At my request they changed the spin on allison filter ($19.08 for the filter + $20.00 labor). - I spent $239 there, but I guess it didn't buy me anything as far as being taken seriously and treated properly.
I'll be picking up my keys and thanking them for nothing tonight. Off to another GM Dealer Monday 1/14/02.
For your next Allison filter change, buy the filter from your local Allison/Detroit Diesel dealer for about $8.00 & replace it your self. The filter is very accessable. All you would need is a correctly sized oil filter wrench! It's a great way to save $30.00!
Jeff
PS - If you can't find a local dealer, let me know & I'll pick one up from Reno & send it out to you!
Maybe I'll go that route in the summer - it's kinda cold and nasty here now, don't really feel like crawling under the truck. Luckily, we do have a local Allison Dealer here. I was researching that for future maintainence/repair.
To nht Don't believe your dealer. GM has already confirmed there is a design problem with the Allison transmission. They have no fix so I'm going through BBB.
Could you elaborate a little more or include links/references to GM's acknowledgement of Allison design problems? I have heard of a few problems, but have not read any "official" GM communications. Thanks!
'01 8100/Alli-LT-4x4-ExCab-SB (15,000 mi) The one with the 'UBFs' removed (:-)
Documented with GM customer service today and have dealer appointment to get this on record in case this gets worse as time goes by. BTW -It has done this since new -- I've just gotton use to it and compensate cause I like the truck so well
PROBLEM IS -- When you have a rapid slow down from around 10mph to 40mph range (such as going thru an intersection) but DO NOT FULLY STOP. If you pick-up the accelorator the transmission gets between gears then slams back into the previous gear and if you try to accerate at all it gets between gears and really slams - So you just get use to it and Don't let that happen.
Think this has been discussed earlier-- Anyone know Whats the latest from GM on this??
This is exactly the problem I had with mine.I don't remember how far back that discussion was.I bought the truck in Mar.01 .The problem showed up in the first 1k mi and got worse with time.I took it to the dealer in June with 6k on it and they replaced the whole trans.The new trans was just as bad within a few miles.I took it back to the dealer(pretty unhappy by now)and they put ANOTHER tranny in it.This time I sugested the problem might be electronic and they "reflashed" it.I now have 17k on it and hav'nt had any problems in the last 11k. kip
the diesel page.com. that forum address all of the tranny issues over there. many folks have had tranny's replaced, reprogrammed, etc... with success. there is much more information about these trucks there.
The diesel page has a lot of good info. Two people come to mind over there regarding Allison issues...SteveO and BigAl. These two guys know quite a bit about the tranny's. They helped me with my shifting issue I had with my 8.1L/Alli.
Am considering 2500 HD and want my 63 1/2 inch wide toolbox to fit. I measured the bed at the front and get 64 inches,great, but at the rear it measured 62 inches! The taper is enough so the toolbox will not fit. Has anyone else noticed this ? My current Dodge has same dimensions front and rear. I'm referring to the inside of the top rail.
I can't seem to find the forum for this diesel page, in order to retrieve this information that SteveO and BigAl you say have posted. I thank you for the help in locating this.
I have noticed from day one, upon initially starting my truck in the early am, about 10 seconds after starting I get this "grinding" sound that lasts for about 1 second. Sounds like it is coming from the left side of the motor, sounds like metal on metal grinding almost like it is a dry cylinder (not a knocking sound). Never does it any other time, except early am. Any suggestions/thoughts? I have the 8.1L.
Well - I got my gauge problem solved and the importer paid for the repairs. My gas gauge now works properly and the trans temp gauge is reading correctly as well. However, now the words on each gauge are no longer illuminated (Fuel, Oil, Temp, Volts, Trans Temp), only the notches and needles. Dealer says that he looked at a couple of other trucks on his lot and none of the words light up on their panels either. He's saying its "the way its designed". I can't figure out why they used to light up and now they suddenly don't. How about yours? Do the words illuminate on your gauge cluster at night when its dark outside? Just trying to verify the dealer's statement. Thanks, L
I haven't heard that type of noise in mine. Last night I head a kind of electronic type noise when I started the truck (like something engaging) coming from the mid/rear section of the bed. Dealer today said this noise is coming from the Allison Tranny. He says he's got some paper (not a tsb) explaining it. We'll see.
Comments
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
Condition
Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:
Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
Cause
Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.
Correction
Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:
Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
Open the hood and install fender covers.
Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.
Important
Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.
Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
Lower the hood.
Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module.
Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:
Important
It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.
Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
Lower but do not close the hood.
Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
Raise the hood.
Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.
Important
Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.
Install the wiper arm assemblies. Position the wiper blades just below the black marks in the windshield.
Install the retaining nuts. Tighten
Tighten the retainers to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Reconnect the washer hoses.
Remove the fender covers.
Close the hood.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12345097 (In Canada use P/N 10953479) Adhesive, Weatherstrip
12345739 (In Canada use P/N 10953541) Sealant, RTV Silicone
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
D2118 Seal, HVAC Module to Body 1.3 hrs
Add Actuator, Air Inlet Door - Replace 1.0 hr
This is a unique labor operation for use only with this bulletin. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
How were you treated at Dave Smiths Motors? Did they have the truck you wanted in stock? Did you have to put a $ 5000 deposit down? Been trying to deal with Valley. Did you have a hard time getting the 3.73 rear end with 8.1?
TIA
Steve
Me: My fuel gauge doesn't climb all the way to F when I fill the tank completely, 100% full to the top.
Them: Well, since this truck was imported from Canada it had to have a conversion package put on it before it could come into the US. It might be that the gauge is reading in liters instead of gallons.
Me: (to myself) Here we go. He's thinking: girl with a big truck = girl that doesn't have a clue -My thinking: Don't start this crap with me, I'm no dummy. I say: Well...liters or gallons F = Full doesn't it? A reading in liters or gallons shouldn't make any difference... a Full tank of gas is a full tank of gas, don'tcha think.....
Them: Well, we'll have to take a look at it. If it is a problem resulting from the conversion, the people you bought the truck from are responsible for fixing it. If it's not a conversion issue, then it will be corrected and covered under warranty.
Appointment on Thursday to check it out. (bummer I'll have to drive the little car) Will post results.....
Personally - I think the sending/sensor/float is off. Liters my butt!
PS: I got 12.5 mpg/highway at 65 mph on cruise control during a holiday trip. Your right..it ain't no honda :>)
My 5.3 is getting about 12.5-13 now that winter has hit
checked that out this weekend too. I believe it's clocking correctly. I also have 4.10 axle as well, so I'm happy with the 12.5 mpg.
-- Don
Jim
owenm1: the service is to change the rear differential fluid @ 7500 miles or 500 miles of towing, whichever comes first. This is the point where the ring and pinion gear have "worn in" to each other (sorry, trouble explaining it) and the fluid should be changed out for fresh.
Another note, Allison recommends swapping the transmission spin-on filter @ 5000 miles, too.
http://www.allisontransmission.com/documents/product/10-TR-99,%20Rev%20A.pdf
-Eric
So, the rear gets changed at 7500 miles (no towing) and never again? (front never at all?)
Thanx
Does your odometer clock in miles or kms? Do you have mph above km on your speedometer or below it? Do your temperature gauges read in Celsius or Fahrenheit?
I know this is foolish, but I think these guys are trying to jerk me around I thought having some info on a "Canadian truck" might be helpful. With that ammo in hand, I'll be sure to ask them what they're smokin'. I do like the green but it shows too much dirt, so I think I'll keep my light pewter metallic model.
Thanks for the info.
My speedometer reads in Miles and I believe my odometer is reading miles as well. The engine temp gauge for example goes from 160 low, 210 middle (I don't recall the upper notch reading). The trans temp gauge begins at 100. The truck is at the GMC Dealer today so I guess we'll know the verdict soon.
It's just a pain in the butt having to fight over who's going to be responsible for fixing the problem. GM will probably tell me that it's conversion related (cuz I didn't buy the truck there and most dealers don't want to do work on trucks they didn't sell). In which case I'll have to go back to the guys I bought it from, who have already told me that they're not responsible for it, their importer is. Big PITA huh?
Thanks for the info.
For example if you multiply your indicated speed by 1.1 to get your actual speed, then you should multiply your gas mileage by this same factor. In this example if you calculated your mileage to be 12mpg, it would actually be 13.2mpg once you compensate for the oversize tires.
This also means that you should be performing your routine services 10% sooner. In this example a 10,000 mile service should be done at 9000 miles indicated on your speedo. If you put your tires on a new truck, this would give you 10% more warranty for free. Your 36k warranty would become a 39.6k warranty. What a deal!
Hope this helps.
"Stay in the tundra topics."
Aren't you being just a little hypocritical here? You spend more time in the Tundra topics than most Tundra owners.
I'm just trying to be helpful.
Spreading false information is being helpful?
What false information did I post? I never claimed you had this problem - in fact I started my post with: "When you stated your gas mileage - did you compensate for your oversize tires? "
I think that the information I posted would be helpful for someone with oversize tires and no hypertech programmer.
Like I said - just trying to be helpful.
kip
Thanks
-Eric
kip
Kyle
Yep bobsquatch...it's the same dealer who fed me the stuff on it being a conversion package problem the first time and they're feeding it to me again.
Now the GM Service guy wants me to provide them with the import statement, which they claim the dealer who sold me the truck should have given me. They (the GM Dealer) say the statement will show all the items done when it was imported. They said "it's possible that the tank was changed in the conversion". Bullcrap...I spoke with the importer this morning, he advised me that all they do is change out the faceplate on the dash and re-calibrate the computer from KM to Miles and there is no "import statement", just a couple of forms required by the US Govt (form 7501 and a bond statement). He's made an appointment on my behalf with the GM Dealer that he deals with exclusively and has assured me it will be fixed. His opinion is that the dealer I went to just doesn't want to be bothered. I think they want the import statement so they can try and find something else to blame the problem on.
It's not like I didn't spend any money there. Since the truck was in anyway, I had them do the recommended 15,000 mile service - (Oil, filter, lube, air and gas filter change, new PVC, injector cleaner, $189.95 - I know...its alot of money, please don't beat me up over it). At my request they changed the spin on allison filter ($19.08 for the filter + $20.00 labor). - I spent $239 there, but I guess it didn't buy me anything as far as being taken seriously and treated properly.
I'll be picking up my keys and thanking them for nothing tonight. Off to another GM Dealer Monday 1/14/02.
For your next Allison filter change, buy the filter from your local Allison/Detroit Diesel dealer for about $8.00 & replace it your self. The filter is very accessable. All you would need is a correctly sized oil filter wrench! It's a great way to save $30.00!
Jeff
PS - If you can't find a local dealer, let me know & I'll pick one up from Reno & send it out to you!
Don't believe your dealer. GM has already confirmed there is a design problem with the Allison transmission. They have no fix so I'm going through BBB.
Could you elaborate a little more or include links/references to GM's acknowledgement of Allison design problems? I have heard of a few problems, but have not read any "official" GM communications.
Thanks!
Jeff
Update on my truck: still at dealer (7 days). Dealer is waiting for a part shipped from Michigan. I live in San Jose, CA. Will keep you posted.
To indian4,
What can BBB do for us?
nht
The one with the 'UBFs' removed (:-)
Documented with GM customer service today and have dealer appointment to get this on record in case this gets worse as time goes by.
BTW -It has done this since new -- I've just gotton use to it and compensate cause I like the truck so well
PROBLEM IS -- When you have a rapid slow down from around 10mph to 40mph range (such as going thru an intersection) but DO NOT FULLY STOP. If you pick-up the accelorator the transmission gets between gears then slams back into the previous gear and if you try to accerate at all it gets between gears and really slams - So you just get use to it and Don't let that happen.
Think this has been discussed earlier-- Anyone know Whats the latest from GM on this??
Thks.
75v
kip
good luck,
kyle
Good luck
Bob
http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/cgi-bin/Ultimate.cgi
Bob
Thanks,
Kyle
Thanks,
Kyle
Do the words on your gauges light up?