a "clunk" in their steering? When turning right, there seems to be some sort of clunking going on. It's more of a feel than a sound and is more apparent when on side roads, not on smooth highway like pavement.
I have read that they eliminated the steering lock feature. I can't remember when they stated they implimented it, but my 2001 2500HD steering wheel doesn't lock either.
I just got back from Sacramento (340 mi round trip) and got 14.1
Buyback update ... I acceped the 5/100 warranty.I couldnt make the trans malfunction for the past couple of months so all I've got to complain about is the engine knock.Oh well...I really love the truck anyway. kip
I never had the clunk you described, but I do get a tiny squeak when you first start it up and pull out of the driveway, only does it when the temp is under 50, and only on right turns. Squeaks about 5 times and that's the last you hear of it. Hey, KG11--What did you do to get 14MPG? Strong wind at your back? Is the trip to Sacramento and back downhill both ways? I'd be skipping down the street if I could get 14. Most of the time I'm barely over 10.
Hey, I remember a few posts back you guys were talking about bigger tires. Without having to make any modifications, what sizes are working for you guys?
I have received 14mpg on a highway trip up to Estas Park here in Colorado. All my driving is in town and average 10mpg.
I upgraded to 265 75's on my HD. No need for speedo or abs recal. One good thing is the abs is no longer over sensitive like it was with the 245's...that was a big plus!! Not to mention the 265's really fill out the wheel well nicely IMHO. Others are running 255 85's with great sucess as well with the stock rims.
4964me1 - I haven't had a squeek like you describe, but this morning the truck did the "clunk" thing both to the left and to the right. It's very hard to describe as it's not really a sound, but more of a thumping feeling through the steering wheel, like something's loose. I wonder if it could be tie rod, ball joint related, rack & pinion related. I had a Buick Skyhawk many moons ago which developed a catch in the rack, it kinda feels similar to that, but not anywhere near as extreme.
I'll be making a dealer appointment for April 5 (soonest I can get ahold of another vehicle to drive), to look at this and a couple of other things. Like the Emergency Brake not engaging until it's almost to the floor and there's an odd high pitched whining sound on startup when it's cold which goes away as soon as the temp begins to increase. It almost sounds like a squeaky belt, but it's more "metallic" sounding than a belt and it's coming from underneath the truck, not from the front. A couple of people have suggested it sounds like the heat shield is loose. We'll see.
As far as my gas mileage goes, I got 11.7 on 3 tanks of Mobil Regular Unleaded - average speed about 50 mph (some highway, some 40-45 mph zones). I'm experimenting with Mobil Special Unleaded now. Have run 1.5 tanks so far - got 11.1 mpg on the first one, not quite as good at the Regular Unleaded.
I'm thinking about signing up on AllData to get detailed TSBs since the geocities site was taken down. Anyone have an opinion on it's usefulness?
Central CA is flat.With cruise control set at 70 in light traffic I got 14.1 this trip ,currently 18,683 mi on odometer.Last time I made the trip I got 13.3 but had only about 6k mi on it.My daily commute is 5 mi city and 11 hiway ,and I avg about 10 mpg.
I have enjoyed reading through this discussion, I realize it is for 8.1 L, Allison rigs. Does someone know where I can find similar info on this truck running the six speed. It appears that the mileage difference is small between the 6L and the 8.1L, I am interested in the two engines using the six speed. Also I am wondering at what point should one move from a 1500 pickup to the 2500 HD. I have read in several discussions of the lighter duty trucks pulling 5000 - 6000+ pounds "no problem". I have a '99 Ram 4x4 with 3.55 gears and the 360, it is not an impressive puller with even a 4000 pound load. Is the higher gearing really that bad for towing versus 4.10s? I agree with the above statements that the HD will be the safer way to go especially when moving up in towing weight.
Not sure where else to find info on the 6 speed setups, you don't hear much about the 6spd in the gasers....sorry no help to you there.
Upgrading is all up to you, however I don't think I would want a half ton pulling 6,000lb loads every few weekends, like a camper or boat or something like that. Sure the truck can move it, but after a while, the stress on the drivetrain wear it out not to mention your nerves. Trust me, been there done that, never gonna do that again!! We upgraded our truck because we knew we would be selling the boat and buying a 5er sometime. As it turns out that sometime is this year!! Glad I have a truck that I know will pull this 5er. It weighs about 7500 lbs before food, gear, etc. I figure after the wife gets done loading all of the "necessities" we will be close to the GVW of the trailer at 10,000lbs!!
By the way I got the 4.10 gears in my truck because I was planning on upgrading the tires. I am getting the same mileage as others with the 8.1L and 3.73's and other people are reporting the same thing. Get the 4.10's and don't look back!!
If you want a 8.1/6 spd you'll have to order it.I paid invoice for my 8.1/Allison but the best deal I could find ordering one was $1200 over invoice and a 3-4 month delivery time. kip
Am I reading you right? Cheverolet does not require speedo or ABS recalibration with 265-75 upgrades? And, what exactly does overly sensitive ABS feel like?
You have answered some of my questions. Thanks for the towing advice, after my experiences I really had to wonder about the viability of towing the large loads I have read/heard about with 1/2 ton trucks. The trailer I may be buying is about 6000 GVW plus toys in the truck bed and passengers = another 1000. We're supposed to be calming nerves not frazzling them! Your comment about 4.10 gearing and mileage is interesting, it also helps insure one will be able to tow whatever they need to. If I understand the GM propaganda brochure, if I buy the six speed the only axle ratio available with it is the 4.10?
I ordered my '99 Ram QC and paid invoice, I like ordering because I get what I need/want and don't have to fight with a salesman over bells & whistles I don't want to pay for (and I don't mind waiting). Planning on ordering a 2003, will be checking some of the other discussions to see if there is early news on changes and improvements. Hopefully I will be able to get close to invoice again.
REF: Msg 349 Experienced the same, exact thing. Immediately after starting up, and before putting the vehicle in gear, a loud clunk came from what I thought was the rear end. It caused me to look in my rear-view mirror where I saw a guy exiting his car parked behind my vehicle. My first impression was that he bumped me while parking his small, insignificant automobile. That was not the case though. This has happened only one time, and I hope it is not a recurring thing.
There is a bulletin out about the clunk. It is the intermediate steering shaft that is making the noise. The bulletin is for a "lube job." It does not solve the problem, however it does make it a little better. I had my done about three weeks ago. Also, GM says the rattle is a bad bearing somewhere in the upper steering shaft or steering box?? Supposedly working on a fix, should be out soon.
MPG... most of these HD speedometers are reading fast by 2-3 mph with the stock 245's. There are big discussions over on the dieselpage.com about this. Many of the guys are comparing speedo to their GPS units and finding the diff. My speedo reads 3 mph faster. Now if I up graded to 265's my speedo would be just about perfect.
Also, remember if the speedo is reading fast, we are actually getting better MPG that what we believe and we are getting to the end of our warranties sooner than 36K!! Hmmm...something to ponder!! A GM money saving scheme?
Good points. I've long suspected this speedometer indicates faster than actual, although 2-3 seems light. It seems more like the error is a percentage: the faster the 'wronger'. Are you indicating 3 mph error throughout? I've had the same thought about 265's, except for the possibility of some critical oversight, which is why I'm quizzing 4x4man in regard to his comments about recalibration not being necessary. I've also heard here something about the Allison needing correct input from the speedometer for proper cooling during towing, but really have no clue about it. I guess a stop by my dealer and see if they have one.
Sorry for the late reply, didn't have internet access for a while...
I didn't say Chevrolet does not require recalibrations for 265's, just stated it wasn't necessary, I should have stated it was my opinion, sorry. Chevrolet doesn't even want you to upgrade your tires. In fact there is a tsb stating if you are complaining about performance or transmission shifting you must have the 245's on before they will even look at it.
I have not checked my speed with a GPS, but have read that the rolling distance between the 245's and 265's is so little (like 2% or 3%) that it is not necessary from other peoples opinions to recal, that is why I didn't. Sorry should've explained better in my earlier post. You can have the speedo recalibrated for 265's, at least that is what my service manager told me. However it is $100!! No thanks, I'll put that towards the higher gas prices thank you.....
To clarify the over-sensitive abs I had and others have reported. It is when you are braking and go over the slightest bump and your abs kicks in pulsating the brake pedal and then not applying as much force to the brakes so you don't slow down as quickly. Now with the 265's when braking going over minor bumps or expansion joints, the abs does not kick in extending my stopping distance. Hard to explain I guess, but when ever my abs kicked in with the 245's on dry roads, my stopping distance increased!!
I didn't notice any shifting issues from the Allison going up to 265's. I have a hard time believing there would be a cooling issue with the Allison while towing or empty as the 265's don't decrease your rpms by much, maybe 200 rpms?? I am not an expert, but the two Allison guys on the diesel page haven't stated that it will be a problem. I think one of them even has upgraded his tires to 265's or 285's!!
change was noticeable to me in both shift points and braking. Thought maybe I was imagining it until I recalibrated the truck. But when I did, I dialed the speedo in dead-on, so the difference may have been a bit larger than just the change in tire size. -- Don
Anybody done the oil change themselves? I haven't been inder the truck yet, but I'm hoping the filter is in the same place Chevy always put it in their V-8's. Anybody out there know how many grease fittings there are, and where they're at? (i.e., upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm, & center link/etc.) Also, that Alison filter is just a spin it off - lube the gasket - spin the new one on - add 1/2 qt. deal, right?
Can't see paying anyone to do that when I can do it myself in 10 minutes.
Do they ship the Alison with synthetic ATF? The owner's manual talks about the Castrol transynth or whatever it's called, but it doesn't say if that's what's actually IN IT. I figure I'll just prime the filter (fill it) first, especially since that Alison supposedly has circulation problems anyway.
The oil filter is on driver's side (right above the front drive shaft - unless you have 2WD) in the usual location. I use a piece of aluminum foil to direct the flow over the driveshaft into the catch bucket. Think you covered the grease points, also check if you have any on the universals or the carrier bearing (2 piece driveshaft).
As for the transmission filter, there is a magnet on the filter that needs to be removed (right on the top around threaded hole) cleaned & placed on the new filter. -Eric
To add to Eric's comments, just crawled under my truck (2500HD,4WD) to double check. Ten fittings in all; upper and lower ball joints plus six across the steering linkage. One piece drive shaft, u-joints are sealed. A reminder: careful about screwing on those new filters. Being new to GM, I just went through a real tussle removing the filter I replaced on the last (my first) change. The instructions on the Delco box indicate after lubing the gasket well, contact plus one revolution. THAT'S TOO TIGHT! I tried five different wrenches before I found one that would work; Actually broke one of them. The winner was a geared, three pronged devise that fits over the bottom of the filter (NAPA, 6.99). The gears work to tighten the grip the harder it's turned. Though it accepts a 3/8" drive, I put a 1/2" adapter and extension on it and cranked it right off with a torque wrench. I screwed the new one on, contact plus one half revolution. We'll see how that works. I also replaced the Allison filter and, as has been stated here previously, it pays to shop. I got quotes from GM ranging from 18.00 to 44.00. An Allison dealer charged 8.25. I bought three. By the way, Allison told me #29537268 has been discontinued. The new number is #29539579. I can see no difference from outside appearance. If you'll check your manual, (page 7-27) you'll see that DEXRON-III is the prescribed fluid. Castrol TranSynd is the recommended fluid if you switch to synthetic. There's a lot of information about it on the Allison site. Happy wrenching.
Bob; Thanks for the info. No problem about the wait. Because of my situation I also have limited access to my computer. I stopped by my dealer today and asked about recalibrating the speedometer after a 265 upgrade. At first they were all, "Yeah, yeah, ABS" and "computer controls everything and yada, yada". But when I pressed, "You mean for just one tire size"? they were'nt quite so affirmative. I'll just keep checking. BTW, does anyone know of or if GM techs use an all-in-one device for diagnostic and recalibration? If so, what is it? Cost? Thanks.
I have 14K miles on my 2001 8.1 Allison Crew Cab 4X4. Have had piston slap getting progressively worse along with oil consumption getting right at 1qt per 2K miles. Did a boresope inspection on the cylinders and found deep vertical scratches in #8 along with 10 PSI lower compression. Of course GM says its "NORMAL". The new (last spring) GM TSB on oil consumption states usage up to 1 QT per 2K miles is normal for all their engines with less than 36K miles if in a vehicle of less than 8500 GVWR. Does anyone know what they consider "NORMAL" oil consumption for the HD? Does anyone know what other manufacturers consider to be "NORMAL" oil consumption? Theres a lot of good info on Piston SLap along with a .wav file where you can listen to it at http://www.gmpistonslap.cjb.net
Nice site. So you've confirmed what we all suspected all along, these motors are beating themselves to death. My experience was nearly identical. I took it in, and the service advisor listened to it, said "Yeah, there's definitely something wrong with it. I had my manager check it out, too. We even started one on the lot, and that one was quiet." BUT when I got all my paperwork back, my invoice said "COULD NOT DUPLICATE CONCERN; NO ABNORMAL NOISE HEARD" Which they subsequently refused to change, because "Once it's in the computer I can't change it." They also put me on an "Oil consumption watch", which they remedied by overfilling the crankcase by almost a quart. I went to a second dealer, who wrote WORD FOR WORD the exact same thing on my invoice, but told me later that it was an piston condition where there's some abnormal contact with the cylinder walls. They tend to "rattle around a little until it warms up" Well, any idiot knows that ain't good, but they INSIST that it's a "NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC" of that engine, and it's not detrimental to the life of the engine. Basically all that means is "GM is going to gamble that the warranty runs out before your motor explodes" Well, now that I've heard everyone is getting the same BS, I'm even more pissed than I was before. $37,000, and they can't build the fu&king motor right. GM won't do anything, and they've got the dealerships reading right off the script.
Here's my idea. Send an e mail to:
dateline@nbc.com
If they get enough of them, they'll listen. General Motors + consumer fraud = BIG STORY.
Send a letter to the EPA. (Defective engines getting 10MPG, burning oil) they'll have a field day.
Then, try:
60 Minutes 524 West 57th St. New York, NY 10019
You seem to be on the right track, but a few dissatisfied customers obviously mean nothing to GM. When 60 minutes comes knocking at their door you can bet your [non-permissible content removed] they're going to start doing something about it, though. BBB doesn't work, lemon laws don't work, let's see if bad publicity works.
Hi gang: Just got an e mail back from the folks at Dateline. Sent them the whole stiry. Apparently, the e mail adress is only for correspondence on show topics that have aired already. They DID say that if you have a story idea, send it to:
STORY SUGGESTIONS Dateline NBC 30 Rockefeller Plaza New York, NY 10112
The more letters they get, the better chance we ALL have. I'll tell them about MY experience with the dealerships and GM being less than helpful, but unless you guys do it too, it's really not a story. One guy with a bum truck? So what? But 10? 100? Now we're talking. Come on guys, what's one more letter? Who wants their truck fixed?
I have a 2001 GMC 2500HD 4x4 w/8.1 Allison, and just put on a new set of 285s, but need some tips on where to get the speedo recalibrated (new to site, sorry if already discussed).....Hypertech Programmer III won't work with Allison tranny so SOL there for the recalibration and shift pt adjustments. (Truck sure looks good with those bigger tires!) Any ideas?
For folks who are interested, there is now a borescope photo of cylinder bore damage caused by piston slap on a 2001 8.1 Liter GM engine with only 14K miles in addition to the .wav file of the sound at http://www.gmpistonslap.cjb.net
This is the only knocking cylinder which is approximately down 10 PSI on compression when compared with the average of the other cylinders. The engine knocks at all temperatures (although louder at cold start) and is now using approximately 1.2 qts per 2K miles of oil. Borescope inspections of the other non-knocking cylinders showed only the original factory machining.
I've read about the GM 6.0 and 8.1 engunes experiencing piston slap. Now a borescope picture confirms that a cylinder is damaged in just a few miles. Wake up and smell the roses GM field reps. There is definitely a problem! I know that sticking your head in the sand is a good career survival technique but.... there are a lot of good folks out here who need your help! Corporate snobbery isn't going to further GM's plan to better serve their customers. If you want to be aloof, get a job in another field. T o those who are experiencing problems; why not get a consumer fraud lawsiut going as a class action? All it take is a leader and organizer. GM doesn't like those kinds of actions happening or getting adverse publicity in the media.
Hi, I enjoy the board. I have found the truck I want...8.1L, 2WD, long bed, single wheel, BUT with 3.73. My '96 GMC with 4.10 gear 7.4L (290HP, 410 ft/lbs) pulls an 8500# travel trailer great. Any idea how to compare the ability of a 4.10 7.4L to a new 8.1L with a 3.73? Would I be getting as much towing ability (uphill towing grunt)? Thanks for the help
The Allison 5spd trans that comes with the new 8.1 has a much lower 1st gear than the previous A/T ,so you won't loose anything off the line.If you have the 5 spd stick,the new 8.1 is available with a 6spd but not here in CA so I never got a chance to compare.
kip
BTW I got the 4.10 gears and avg 13.3 @70 mph and REAL BAD MPGs in town with my lead foot.
With more HP (340) and torque (455), the 8100 should handle anything you can throw at it. It's spec'd at 12,000 lb towing capacity with your configuration. I went with the 3.73 on mine, figuring I'd save a few MPG. I get 9 around town, and close to 12 on the highway (empty). If I knew all I was going to get was 9MPG I'd have gone with the 4.10, not because you need it, but just to give me a little more off the line. If you liked your 454, you'll like the 8100. (provided you get one that doesn't knock)
Hello, I just bought the chevy 2500HD long bed, 8.1L, crew cab I mentioned a couple of posts ago. Outstanding so far (after 2 days). I lost the directions to my Kelsey brake controller. It has 4 thick wires...red, white, blue, and black. Would anyone know where to connect these wires to the included brake wiring harness, which has a thick red and blue, and thin light blue, black, and brown wires. I am a novice at this kind of thing. Thanks for any help
Red is your connection to brake lights (switch) Black is battery positive White is battery negative (chasis ground) Blue is connection to trailer brakes
These connect to factory harness (if you have) which are labeled on the harness. The brown wire (illumination) is not used, and if the trailer has a battery connection, the 40 amp fuse gets plugged into post #1 in electrical center under the hood.
The factory harness gets plugged into connection @ top left of the panel under dash at driver's left foot. There is a cover which needs to be removed to see. Remove plastic nut holding cover in place, connect harness & reinstall cover.
Hooked up the brake controller today...works great. In my '96 7.4, 4.10, while going up a big hill while towing, I would downshift to "low 3" and the transmission would downshift 1 gear, and increase about 750 rpm. While test towing today with the Allison 8.1L, whether in tow-haul or not, if I downshift to "low 3" at the start of a big hill, going 70 mph, the tranny would downshift 1 gear, go up to about 3000 rpm, then every time, would after about 2 seconds, downshift again, and the rpm would increase to 4000 rpm...even though the extra downshift didn't appear to be needed to hold speed. Is the approved solution to always tow in overdrive, and put up with the searching for gears while going up an incline.... or drive in "low 3" and see 4000 rpm? Thanks again.
3rd gear in the Allison is not much(if any) higher than 2nd in your '96. There are 5 gears in the Allison ,4th is 1 to 1 ratio just like 3rd in your '96 and 1 thru 3 cover the a slightly wider and lower range as the first 2.Leave it in drive and select tow/hual mode.
Even if you buy their ludicrous excuse that it does not affect the longevity of the engine - Why would anyone want to drive a truck that sounds like a paint shaker? Shouldn't GM fix this?
This brings up the question of what a warranty is for. GM is merrily handing out extended warranties to anyone with a knocking truck because they know that they can get away with not honoring them. (Just like they are not honoring the original warranty).
Would you buy a new GM truck knowing that there is a good chance that your engine will knock loudly and GM will tell you to take a hike when you attempt to get it fixed?
Why does Toyota not offer a full size 1/2 ton, let alone a 3/4 or 1 ton? Do they have any V8's larger than the 4.7 available? Why would someone who owns one of these tiny wanna be 1/2 tons be posting garbage in this topic? Go spam your own site some more. Tom
Piston Slap knock: Louder when engine/weather is cold and during lower RPMs. Then in some cases goes away. Non-detonation issue.
Carbon Knock: Louder when engine/weather is hot and during higher RPMs. Will not go away. Detonation issue. Higher-octane/slower burning fuel should solve.
Why then, Does GM refer to carbon build-up as a cold-start knocking issue in this TSB:
GM, I agree. In todays engines, with the taper of the piston tops and shorter skirts, some normal slapping will occur up to 1-2 or even 3 minutes in extreme cold weather. But those aluminum pistons should expand quickly and quiet down. (my 5.7 goes on for 15-25 minutes--most people agree that's not normal but GM says, "yes").
If the pistons don't seat quickly, excessive blow-by will cause higher than normal air-pressure in the oil pan causing oil to be blown up into the valve cover and down from the top where it is burned in the combustion chamber. Higher oil "usage" from higher reving, higher compression engines might be normal, but oil "burning" from blow-by is not.
Would you please quit agreeing with GM.1-2 or even 3 minutes of knocking IS NOT NORMAL.Yours on the other hand is seriously effed-up.15-25 minutes?And they won't fix it?I think sonjab was right about putting a brick on the gas pedal.
While I appreciate your brand loyalty, why should nomore have to accept a knocking engine? I know that you accept that knocking is "normal", but why should nomore have to accept your erroneous perception?
GM needs to address this problem. The sooner - the better for their long term viability as a car(or truck) manufacturer.
Why do you need to post here while crying to your mama about off topic posts in the Tundra topic.
I know you're not stupid enough to think I said any of what you're "quoting" so just what is your purpose here? You KNOW I'm closer to a Toyota brand loyalist than GM,but unlike you I'm not going to tell people your Tundra is actually a truck.Tundra is the only toyota I don't care for. I consider it to be Toyota's second failure in the full sized market.I also think they'll get it right on the third attempt.
Have your friendly GM dealer do a oil change. Drive home. Drain oil. Start motor..Let it idle....When it seizes. Refill with oil...Call dealer !!! You are under warranty right ? I feel your pain I had 2 troublesome toyotas, 1 pos vette, 1 pos T/A.. Dealers were NO help either..... Had to bite the bullet on all of them ! But my last 4 GM trucks were great and I snowplowed and worked em, to death ! Good luck......Geo
Can't do such a thing--too honest. Will not lower myself to GM's standards. Nothing against you, ol' man. I appreciate the advice. Besides, they can tell these days by taking the engine apart and the black-box computer on the cars. That stuff worked good in the 50's.
KG11, I think you're right. I just wish mine would go away in 2 minutes--it doesn't. Kind of a drag, my friend. I hear what you're saying. When it comes to slingin' the BS, GM is King.
Bama/KG, you know I really wish you guys could click (notice I didn't say, knock)--go out for a beer or something--doobie perhaps--little air-guitar. Life's too GD short. Love ya bro's.
Hi, I have the shortbed GMC 2001 Sierra w,8100/Allison. I am thinking about replacing the 26 gal. fuel tank with a 45 gal. tank that mounts on the chassis that Transfer Flow makes. Has anyone gone this route yet with their shortbed and if so how easy or hard was the transition.
Comments
Bob
Buyback update ... I acceped the 5/100 warranty.I couldnt make the trans malfunction for the past couple of months so all I've got to complain about is the engine knock.Oh well...I really love the truck anyway.
kip
Hey, I remember a few posts back you guys were talking about bigger tires. Without having to make any modifications, what sizes are working for you guys?
I upgraded to 265 75's on my HD. No need for speedo or abs recal. One good thing is the abs is no longer over sensitive like it was with the 245's...that was a big plus!!
Not to mention the 265's really fill out the wheel well nicely IMHO.
Others are running 255 85's with great sucess as well with the stock rims.
Bob
I'll be making a dealer appointment for April 5 (soonest I can get ahold of another vehicle to drive), to look at this and a couple of other things. Like the Emergency Brake not engaging until it's almost to the floor and there's an odd high pitched whining sound on startup when it's cold which goes away as soon as the temp begins to increase. It almost sounds like a squeaky belt, but it's more "metallic" sounding than a belt and it's coming from underneath the truck, not from the front. A couple of people have suggested it sounds like the heat shield is loose. We'll see.
As far as my gas mileage goes, I got 11.7 on 3 tanks of Mobil Regular Unleaded - average speed about 50 mph (some highway, some 40-45 mph zones). I'm experimenting with Mobil Special Unleaded now. Have run 1.5 tanks so far - got 11.1 mpg on the first one, not quite as good at the Regular Unleaded.
I'm thinking about signing up on AllData to get detailed TSBs since the geocities site was taken down. Anyone have an opinion on it's usefulness?
'01 2500HD ex-cab 4x4 /4.10
kip
Also I am wondering at what point should one move from a 1500 pickup to the 2500 HD. I have read in several discussions of the lighter duty trucks pulling 5000 - 6000+ pounds "no problem". I have a '99 Ram 4x4 with 3.55 gears and the 360, it is not an impressive puller with even a 4000 pound load. Is the higher gearing really that bad for towing versus 4.10s? I agree with the above statements that the HD will be the safer way to go especially when moving up in towing weight.
Upgrading is all up to you, however I don't think I would want a half ton pulling 6,000lb loads every few weekends, like a camper or boat or something like that. Sure the truck can move it, but after a while, the stress on the drivetrain wear it out not to mention your nerves. Trust me, been there done that, never gonna do that again!! We upgraded our truck because we knew we would be selling the boat and buying a 5er sometime. As it turns out that sometime is this year!! Glad I have a truck that I know will pull this 5er. It weighs about 7500 lbs before food, gear, etc. I figure after the wife gets done loading all of the "necessities" we will be close to the GVW of the trailer at 10,000lbs!!
By the way I got the 4.10 gears in my truck because I was planning on upgrading the tires. I am getting the same mileage as others with the 8.1L and 3.73's and other people are reporting the same thing. Get the 4.10's and don't look back!!
Bob
kip
And, what exactly does overly sensitive ABS feel like?
-David
I ordered my '99 Ram QC and paid invoice, I like ordering because I get what I need/want and don't have to fight with a salesman over bells & whistles I don't want to pay for (and I don't mind waiting). Planning on ordering a 2003, will be checking some of the other discussions to see if there is early news on changes and improvements. Hopefully I will be able to get close to invoice again.
Vehicle data: 2001 GMC 2500HD LT 8.1L w/Allison transmission.
MPG... most of these HD speedometers are reading fast by 2-3 mph with the stock 245's. There are big discussions over on the dieselpage.com about this. Many of the guys are comparing speedo to their GPS units and finding the diff. My speedo reads 3 mph faster. Now if I up graded to 265's my speedo would be just about perfect.
Also, remember if the speedo is reading fast, we are actually getting better MPG that what we believe and we are getting to the end of our warranties sooner than 36K!! Hmmm...something to ponder!! A GM money saving scheme?
Good Luck,
Kyle
-David
I didn't say Chevrolet does not require recalibrations for 265's, just stated it wasn't necessary, I should have stated it was my opinion, sorry. Chevrolet doesn't even want you to upgrade your tires. In fact there is a tsb stating if you are complaining about performance or transmission shifting you must have the 245's on before they will even look at it.
I have not checked my speed with a GPS, but have read that the rolling distance between the 245's and 265's is so little (like 2% or 3%) that it is not necessary from other peoples opinions to recal, that is why I didn't. Sorry should've explained better in my earlier post. You can have the speedo recalibrated for 265's, at least that is what my service manager told me. However it is $100!! No thanks, I'll put that towards the higher gas prices thank you.....
To clarify the over-sensitive abs I had and others have reported. It is when you are braking and go over the slightest bump and your abs kicks in pulsating the brake pedal and then not applying as much force to the brakes so you don't slow down as quickly. Now with the 265's when braking going over minor bumps or expansion joints, the abs does not kick in extending my stopping distance. Hard to explain I guess, but when ever my abs kicked in with the 245's on dry roads, my stopping distance increased!!
I didn't notice any shifting issues from the Allison going up to 265's. I have a hard time believing there would be a cooling issue with the Allison while towing or empty as the 265's don't decrease your rpms by much, maybe 200 rpms?? I am not an expert, but the two Allison guys on the diesel page haven't stated that it will be a problem. I think one of them even has upgraded his tires to 265's or 285's!!
Bob
-- Don
Can't see paying anyone to do that when I can do it myself in 10 minutes.
Do they ship the Alison with synthetic ATF? The owner's manual talks about the Castrol transynth or whatever it's called, but it doesn't say if that's what's actually IN IT. I figure I'll just prime the filter (fill it) first, especially since that Alison supposedly has circulation problems anyway.
As for the transmission filter, there is a magnet on the filter that needs to be removed (right on the top around threaded hole) cleaned & placed on the new filter.
-Eric
I also replaced the Allison filter and, as has been stated here previously, it pays to shop. I got quotes from GM ranging from 18.00 to 44.00. An Allison dealer charged 8.25. I bought three. By the way, Allison told me #29537268 has been discontinued. The new number is #29539579. I can see no difference from outside appearance.
If you'll check your manual, (page 7-27) you'll see that DEXRON-III is the prescribed fluid. Castrol TranSynd is the recommended fluid if you switch to synthetic. There's a lot of information about it on the Allison site. Happy wrenching.
Bob; Thanks for the info. No problem about the wait. Because of my situation I also have limited access to my computer. I stopped by my dealer today and asked about recalibrating the speedometer after a 265 upgrade. At first they were all, "Yeah, yeah, ABS" and "computer controls everything and yada, yada". But when I pressed, "You mean for just one tire size"? they were'nt quite so affirmative. I'll just keep checking.
BTW, does anyone know of or if GM techs use an all-in-one device for diagnostic and recalibration? If so, what is it? Cost? Thanks.
-David
-David
Well, now that I've heard everyone is getting the same BS, I'm even more pissed than I was before. $37,000, and they can't build the fu&king motor right. GM won't do anything, and they've got the dealerships reading right off the script.
Here's my idea.
Send an e mail to:
dateline@nbc.com
If they get enough of them, they'll listen. General Motors + consumer fraud = BIG STORY.
Send a letter to the EPA. (Defective engines getting 10MPG, burning oil) they'll have a field day.
Then, try:
60 Minutes
524 West 57th St.
New York, NY 10019
You seem to be on the right track, but a few dissatisfied customers obviously mean nothing to GM. When 60 minutes comes knocking at their door you can bet your [non-permissible content removed] they're going to start doing something about it, though.
BBB doesn't work, lemon laws don't work, let's see if bad publicity works.
Just got an e mail back from the folks at Dateline. Sent them the whole stiry. Apparently, the e mail adress is only for correspondence on show topics that have aired already. They DID say that if you have a story idea, send it to:
STORY SUGGESTIONS
Dateline NBC
30 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10112
The more letters they get, the better chance we ALL have. I'll tell them about MY experience with the dealerships and GM being less than helpful, but unless you guys do it too, it's really not a story. One guy with a bum truck? So what? But 10? 100? Now we're talking. Come on guys, what's one more letter? Who wants their truck fixed?
This is the only knocking cylinder which is approximately down 10 PSI on compression when compared with the average of the other cylinders. The engine knocks at all temperatures (although louder at cold start) and is now using approximately 1.2 qts per 2K miles of oil. Borescope inspections of the other non-knocking cylinders showed only the original factory machining.
I enjoy the board. I have found the truck I want...8.1L, 2WD, long bed, single wheel, BUT with 3.73. My '96 GMC with 4.10 gear 7.4L (290HP, 410 ft/lbs) pulls an 8500# travel trailer great. Any idea how to compare the ability of a 4.10 7.4L to a new 8.1L with a 3.73? Would I be getting as much towing ability (uphill towing grunt)? Thanks for the help
kip
BTW I got the 4.10 gears and avg 13.3 @70 mph and REAL BAD MPGs in town with my lead foot.
I just bought the chevy 2500HD long bed, 8.1L, crew cab I mentioned a couple of posts ago. Outstanding so far (after 2 days). I lost the directions to my Kelsey brake controller. It has 4 thick wires...red, white, blue, and black. Would anyone know where to connect these wires to the included brake wiring harness, which has a thick red and blue, and thin light blue, black, and brown wires. I am a novice at this kind of thing. Thanks for any help
Black is battery positive
White is battery negative (chasis ground)
Blue is connection to trailer brakes
These connect to factory harness (if you have) which are labeled on the harness. The brown wire (illumination) is not used, and if the trailer has a battery connection, the 40 amp fuse gets plugged into post #1 in electrical center under the hood.
The factory harness gets plugged into connection @ top left of the panel under dash at driver's left foot. There is a cover which needs to be removed to see. Remove plastic nut holding cover in place, connect harness & reinstall cover.
Hope this helps.
-Eric
Seeing as Anti-GM sites are on the endangered-species list 'round here....Come, join the carnage!
In my '96 7.4, 4.10, while going up a big hill while towing, I would downshift to "low 3" and the transmission would downshift 1 gear, and increase about 750 rpm. While test towing today with the Allison 8.1L, whether in tow-haul or not, if I downshift to "low 3" at the start of a big hill, going 70 mph, the tranny would downshift 1 gear, go up to about 3000 rpm, then every time, would after about 2 seconds, downshift again, and the rpm would increase to 4000 rpm...even though the extra downshift didn't appear to be needed to hold speed. Is the approved solution to always tow in overdrive, and put up with the searching for gears while going up an incline.... or drive in "low 3" and see 4000 rpm?
Thanks again.
kip
This brings up the question of what a warranty is for. GM is merrily handing out extended warranties to anyone with a knocking truck because they know that they can get away with not honoring them. (Just like they are not honoring the original warranty).
Would you buy a new GM truck knowing that there is a good chance that your engine will knock loudly and GM will tell you to take a hike when you attempt to get it fixed?
Go spam your own site some more.
Tom
Remember - this topic is about GM trucks - not Tundras. As painful as I know it is to own a knocker, can we please try to stay on topic?
- Tim
Piston Slap knock: Louder when engine/weather is cold and during lower RPMs. Then in some cases goes away. Non-detonation issue.
Carbon Knock: Louder when engine/weather is hot and during higher RPMs. Will not go away. Detonation issue. Higher-octane/slower burning fuel should solve.
Why then, Does GM refer to carbon build-up as a cold-start knocking issue in this TSB:
http://www.expage.com/gmtsbs
Just seems to be contradictive.
GM, I agree. In todays engines, with the taper of the piston tops and shorter skirts, some normal slapping will occur up to 1-2 or even 3 minutes in extreme cold weather. But those aluminum pistons should expand quickly and quiet down. (my 5.7 goes on for 15-25 minutes--most people agree that's not normal but GM says, "yes").
If the pistons don't seat quickly, excessive blow-by will cause higher than normal air-pressure in the oil pan causing oil to be blown up into the valve cover and down from the top where it is burned in the combustion chamber. Higher oil "usage" from higher reving, higher compression engines might be normal, but oil "burning" from blow-by is not.
Reference:
http://www.womanmotorist.com/MAINTENANCE/tomt/tt-enginesburnoil-01.shtml
kip
GM needs to address this problem. The sooner - the better for their long term viability as a car(or truck) manufacturer.
I know you're not stupid enough to think I said any of what you're "quoting" so just what is your purpose here?
You KNOW I'm closer to a Toyota brand loyalist than GM,but unlike you I'm not going to tell people your Tundra is actually a truck.Tundra is the only toyota I don't care for. I consider it to be Toyota's second failure in the full sized market.I also think they'll get it right on the third attempt.
change. Drive home. Drain oil. Start
motor..Let it idle....When it seizes.
Refill with oil...Call dealer !!!
You are under warranty right ?
I feel your pain I had 2 troublesome
toyotas, 1 pos vette, 1 pos T/A..
Dealers were NO help either.....
Had to bite the bullet on all of them !
But my last 4 GM trucks were great and
I snowplowed and worked em, to death !
Good luck......Geo
KG11, I think you're right. I just wish mine would go away in 2 minutes--it doesn't. Kind of a drag, my friend. I hear what you're saying. When it comes to slingin' the BS, GM is King.
Bama/KG, you know I really wish you guys could click (notice I didn't say, knock)--go out for a beer or something--doobie perhaps--little air-guitar. Life's too GD short. Love ya bro's.