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I beleive the Impreza horn is mounted lower...I honestly havent found it yet!!..agree it is a bit wimpy sounding.....
Youtube to the rescue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXzYqrKMg8c
http://www.thompson-automotive.com/Air_Horn.html
love the car after almost 10 weeks and 5300 miles!!...get 31 MPG overall at the moment
Driver side - 25 1/2" (about 65 cm)
Passenger side - 15 3/4" (40 cm)
I'd hold off on stocking up, though, considering Subaru's generous 3-year warranty. Wear items like wiper blades are also covered, so it'll be at least 3 years, probably 4, before you'd need to purchase new blades.
To date about 950 of our first 1,000 miles have been all city or suburban, and according to the EPA our actual MPG should be around 27 mpg. Our computer and manual calculations have shown between 28 and 29 mpg in that environment. The computer and my manual calculations have been surprisingly close, off by just a few tenths. That's contrary to what I've read from other owners' 1.5 higher-than-calculated experiences.
Last weekend I made a freeway run and reset one of the computers to track highway mpg, with the first 15 miles at about 60 mph on flat ground and the next 8 miles at 70 mph with some elevation change. For the first leg the computer showed just over 48 mpg, and then at 23 miles the computer showed about 45 mpg. Conditions were 45 degrees F, no traffic, no wind, 4,200 feet elevation, two people (one an 8-year-old) and one hockey bag with equipment. Our higher elevation kills horsepower, particularly with normally aspirated motors, but I've found the reduced wind resistance beneficial to MPG. The car is stock, with just some accessories adding minimal weight.
I'm not expecting 40+ mpg on a regular basis, but I think 36 highway average will be very doable for us. Many others haven't been so fortunate based on reports posted in the forums, but at least for us, the Impreza mpg is just fine.
My trip computer (2010 Forester) is one that is generally 0.75 to 1.5 mpg optimistic, but it is a moot point now... it stopped working, out of the blue, about two weeks ago! Grrr. I'm sure glad I ended up getting the extended warranty, even though I really hoped I wouldn't need to use it.
Funny!
Thanks
We decided on the Ice Silver also (haven't confirmed anything yet.) and will be getting Honolulu Blue over Black pin striping done on it (Hand Painted, not Taped) once we comit to it. We also have confirmed the name of the vehicle will be "Silverbolt".
Odie
Ice Silver Sport Limited w/moonroof
-popular pkg #1, hood protector, side moldings and remote start
$23,300, or $25,017 OTD. I only shopped around locally (w/in 120 miles) so I hope I did at least okay.
This is my first new car. I've just started my 4th week of waiting, was told 10-15 weeks! So I didn't have to make a decision on extended warranties yet... so
Q: do many Subaru owners purchase extended warranties? I didn't negotiate anything yet, but was quoted something like $1,700 for a total of 7-years or 70,000 total miles. I also have the option of buying Interior protection and exterior protections separately... waste of money?
Thanks for your time and thanks for all of the good reading!!
I bought an 80k extended on my '03 Forester, and never got to use it. With 150k now, still no issues, I'm comfortable not spending the money on an extended warranty on my new Impreza.
I'm not getting any protections either.
I ordered a premium hatch, auto, All-weather, and the foglight package (1A I believe). $20,918, just below invoice. Was told 6-8 weeks.
John
In my opinion, even if nothing major goes wrong with the car in the 70K miles, little issues can sometimes add up over the years and a couple hundred dollars is a reasonable expectation on most car repairs (especially new ones). Knowing everything is covered with no deducible for 7 years, gives me a fantastic sense of security. Plus, you must always account for murphy's law.
Maybe acting like you are on the fence about it and finally decide "not to get it" is the way to negotiate the price. I never thought that the warranty was even negotiable before. :P
You don't have to buy the extended warranty, or buy it at the time of purchase (you can buy it any time prior to the expiration of the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper warranty), or buy it from the dealer that sells you the car. However, if you do buy the Subaru Gold Plus, it has the some added benefits, including trip interruption, from the day it is purchased through its expiration. Much of the protection takes effect after the B2B and powertrain warranties expire, but there can be benefit to early purchase if you have any problems with the car during that time.
That makes sense about the paying for only years after the original warranty expires; the dealers sure like you to think you're getting a deal!
I'll most likely take it if he can drop it several hundred bucks. I may start with him around $1,000 and see what he says. Or maybe ask to throw in the interior/exterior coverages for free or something. I guess I do like piece-of-mind, and so I am a type that that is worth something. Ugh.
Thanks everyone!
The main reason I purchased the warranty was because it is basically a new car (transmission etc). If I never have to use it, I can live with that.
You can bet that the statisticians have it pretty well figured out. Like all insurance, IF you can afford to cover a problem yourself, you are better off not buying the extended warranty.
John
As for the 100,000-mile warranty, that can be had in 5, 6, or 7 year lengths, so you just have to consider your average mileage per year and determine what fits best.
I was really impressed with how the car drove; I didn't find the CVT as laggardly or pokey as I expected and I found myself speeding without realizing it. Brakes were great, wind and road noise acceptable. Yeah, there's a little cheap plastic in the i/Premium models, but what the heck. I literally can't get out of my neighborhood when it snows due to a short hill with a 22% grade, and even though we don't get much snow here, I won't be held hostage in my house by it anymore - which is much more important to me than some hard plastic armrests on the doors.
They said at worst I'd have to wait 6-8 weeks, but the car could possibly come in sooner, I suppose if they can work a trade with another dealer. But I'm expecting the wait because in my searching of inventory online, I've never seen one configured the way I want.
Thanks much in advance
The real deal is, you are in fact only buying 4 years of warranty service. If you buy the extended warranty at the 3 year mark you are still only extending it to the 72K miles. The benefit of buying it at time of purchase is the few small, but added, differences in coverage between the standard and the extended.
For some reason this whole concept was lost on me at first...
So far....
The car seems rock solid in its build and well thought out in observable engineering. (e.g. the oil filter is a handshake under the hood to access.)
There were a couple of VERY early minor producution issues that were mostly solved.
The only problem we have apparently been unlucky enough to be one of the few to get is the "hard starting issue", which seems to have no solution and is debatable, according to Subaru, if its a problem.
Sometimes the car just doesn't want to seem to start or takes a couple of attempts with significant cranking. NOT something you expect in a new car.
I am pursuing a "solution" that comes from CAREFULLY reading the owners manual and pondering the implications.
The manual mentions turning the key to the "ON" position, then "checking the gauges", THEN starting the car. Also NEVER touch the accelerator pedal on a first start attempt.(per the manual).
What REALLY seems to be happening, is that you have to turn the key to "ON", wait for the gauge needles to stop waving around and then start, which apparently gives the car time to boot up its computers and fire up the fuel pump. I am GUESSING the fuel pump "headstart" is related to it being a flat four engine....somehow.
This is my wife's car, and she is not long on patience. IF this "fixes" the sporadic problem, then she will be happy and loves the car enough to overlook this funky starting procedure. (Prius startup is more complicated, after all)
People have taken the cars back to the dealer for troubleshooting, replaced batteries, charged batteries, all to no avail, and since its a sporadic problem, its even harder to trouble shoot. The two step starting procedure is still in test by a number of people and so far has not been totally proven, or refuted.
We are hoping the work around is all that is required, because we absolutely love our Marine blue, Premium CVT otherwise. And getting the Premium with just the All weather package (we do NOT need nav or fog lights or the other Goodies) seems like a very good Value.
oh yah, also be aware that Subarus have a very firmly established history of blowing their headgaskets between 70,000 and 120,000 miles. (note that is right after their longest extended warranty offer). Supposedly they have fixed the issue in the new engine. I have heard the way to avoid that is keep on top of your oil changes religiously, and keep your battery terminals clean and tight. Seriously.... apparently the gasket becomes a sacrificial part in the "alternate" circuit electricty finds if you let the resistance build up in the path through the battery. So I have heard from a very good Subaru mechanic.
My vehicle is susceptible to the long-start problem. But I haven't experienced it recently. My guess is that it was a combination of the computer learning the environment, and the cold weather. This is my second subaru, and my first, a '10 Forester has had no mechanical problems yet.
Buyers with no tolerance for mechanical problems should stick with Toyota or Honda. But by taking that stance you lose out on more diversity in the car you can choose. And still, those car companies do not produce completely flawless vehicles.
I think it's fair to criticize Subarus for some things (interior refinement would be #1), but mechanical longevity is not one of them.
You'll be glad to know the FA/FB20 and FB25 engines were designed with this in mind.
The cooling for the heads and block have separate lines now, so coolant doesn't even flow through the gaskets any more.
Gaskets can't leak coolant if coolant never even touches them. Problem solved, case closed. :shades:
John
The warranty is the same price at 0 yr/0 miles and 2.99 yr/35.99k miles. The risk you take waiting is a price increase and missing out on the "extra" benefits. The risk buying at delivery is lost opportunity cost of the money and only getting a prorated refund if you trade or total the car prior to 3/36K.
The warranty length, as with mileage, is factored from new. For the time aspect, it starts as of the vehicle date of delivery (sale).
I like the gauge sweep because it gives you a good guide as to how long you should wait before starting, but the whirring of the fuel pump is also audible in a quiet environment - when it shuts off, that's your cue!