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Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance



  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i don't think the issue is how far the trip is. it is whether or not you maintain a constant speed during the break-in period.

    do this: go put a couple of hundred miles on it right now with some city and some country and some HWY driving. vary your speed.

    don't red-line the thing. ;)

    now when you are out on the HWY on your way to the lake, do some driving at 55, some at 65, some at 75 (what is the limit out that way?). just don't take it out on the HWY and stick it on cruise for the whole trip.

    isn't tahoe in the mtns? seems like you'll be doing some speed changes anyway.
  • johnd15johnd15 Posts: 41
    I've read that not replacing the dust/pollen filter in the Odyssey can result in lower fuel economy... so now that I have 60K on my 02 and gas is at $3.50/gal I am looking into this. The owner's manual says to have a dealer change it... but I'd prefer to do it myself. Has anyone tackled this task? Any advice? Are there instructions online anywhere? Thanks.

    P.S. Our Ody has been a great family vehicle. Not one problem; still have original brakes too.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    OK - I drove the wife's Odyssey to work today. It's definitely still knocking, though less than before the chip change.

    Spoke with dealership service manager who was very nice. He explained that it has to do with a combination of the semi-spherical (a la Hemi) tops of the combustion chambers and the location of the piston at the moment of fuel ignition. He has been asking Tech-Line for an answer to this problem b/c he has several of Ody-EXs with the same issue. So far, the thinking is that enriching the fuel mix may solve the problem but I shudder to think of what that will do the already poor mileage this vehicle has been getting.

    I questioned that assessment simply because, if its a design defect, than ALL Ody-EXs without the cylinder deactivation should be experiencing this problem and, clearly, they're not.

    However, he has the zone rep in the shop today and promised to discuss it with him and he's taking my car back in on Monday (giving me a loaner this time - no more extended family automotive swaparoos necessary) to check into the problem further.

    Any thoughts or ideas would be welcome. After the problems I've had with my '04 Accord and now this, I'm feeling pretty down about Hondas.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    there are 2 air filters in your ODY.

    1). there is an engine air filter that if blocked, will significantly reduce fuel economy and could make your vehicle run rich. it is located in the engine compartment (black plastic box), probably on the driver's side. you can loosen 4 phillip-head screws, elevate the top of the box (there isn't much need to elevate the top more than a few inches to reach your hand in there and pull out the filter, and check the cleanliness. i like to change mine every 15K. they cost about $12.00 or so at your local automotive supply store. this is the one that can affect your mileage.

    2). there is a dust/pollen filter which is used by the ventillation system for the cabin. on your car, it is located in a compartment on the driver's side just behind the glovebox. it is a BEAR in the ODY to replace. replacement involves dropping the glovebox, cutting extraneous dash material, removing a metal plate, opening a compartment and removing the filter. this is something to be done every 30 or 60K. this one will not affect your mileage. it will affect your breathing. ;)

    (1) is EASY, even for a virtual novice.

    (2) is a challenge. it almost warrants having 3 or 4 hands.

    i'd encourage you to try (1).


    OK, here is pix / pricing on both (the engine air filter can be found and purchased at an automotive supply store):

    the pollen filter for the inside of the car - that i'd order on-line or get at the parts counter at your dealership. i posted a link to instructions, and a follow-up with my experience somewhere here on edmunds. i'll haveto search for it.
  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    User777 has a good reply. The symptom, if any, is less air flow thru the AC system. I live in AZ and we run the AC full time half the year, but I also have the air flow on recirculate. The last time I replaced the in cabin filter I couldn't tell the "dirty" side from the "clean". The filter material, at that time was a dirty looking material. Yes, it is a BEAR to replace.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    right. my point was essentially, there are two filters (actually there's more... for example fuel filter) that the post was confusing. The engine air filter cleanliness will impact fuel economy. The cabin/pollen air filter cleanliness could impact human breathing efficiency. ;)
  • busy360busy360 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey mini van and I am trying to determine at what miles the transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, etc. should be changed. I know the maintenance minder will notify me when enough miles are accumulate, but I would like the schedule. I cannot find this in the owners manual or technical manuals.
    Can anyone help me?
    Thank you.
  • busy360busy360 Posts: 2

    I am trying to obtain a list indicating at what miles the maintenance minder notifies you of scheduled maintenance. Would you know of a good souce?
    Thank you.
  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    I have an odyssey 07 EX-L. Are there any specific Fuel requirements, for the break-even period (First 600 miles)?
    Will Unleaded 87 be OK during that period. What is the recommended suggestion.

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 24,984
    regular (87) is recommended. No reason to use anything else, even for the break in period.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Posts: 108
    We have an '05 EX with close to 30K on it. At slow speeds, like starting a turn after a stop sign, the steering wheel is kind of tight and "chunky" meaning that it doesn't seem to turn freely. Rather, it kind of jumps around a bit and is sluggish, making it a bit harder to turn. This also happens when braking or slow down to make a turn. Basically, anytime the speed is around 10mph or so.

    Anyone experience anything like this? I'm not hearing noises or anything, and things seem to improve as speed increases.
  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Posts: 108
    Another problem we are experiencing with our '05 Odyssey is the front windows rattle, both on the driver's side and the passenger side. I've made sure that they are all the way up. The driver's side is so bad, that I often have to crack the window just a bit so that it won't rattle.

    I've heard that the Odyssey seems to be suffering from body integrity issues (according to Consumer Reports), but does anyone know if this is a common problem and one that can be corrected? We have 30K on ours. Would it still be covered under 36K warranty?
  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    I just resolved a similar problem. A front tire had a nail in it and the pressure was down to 19 psi from the usual 35-37 psi. Tire patched and inflated correctly. Problem solved.

    Take your van to a dealer and tell them to fix the rattles. It should be under warranty.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Dealer has had my car for 11 days now - the service manager himself is working on the car. We have an '07 Pilot-LX as a loaner (can't stand it - want my Ody back already!).

    Manager brought in a tech from Honda who spent three days working on the car, running a billion electronics checks, but could not find anything wrong. So he threw it back in the service department's lap. Not to impressed with Honda support so far, though the manager says he's been in close touch with Tech-Line and that they've been a big help.

    So far, as near as he can tell, the knocking sound is NOT pre-ignition, but rather a valve that is not traveling up and down the way its supposed to and is, as a consequence, tapping the head. We're nearing the limits of my technical expertise, but I think I understand it so far.

    Will report to this board when we find out what it is finally. Ironically, my wife noticed that the Pilot-LX loaner she's driving, with the same 3.5 V-6 as in her EX (though different tranny) knocking too!

  • odymikeodymike Posts: 23
    Mine used to do this. Would take to dealer and they would fix if for a few months. What is it? The window seats into a J channel type of rubber seal. This is lubricated with silicone grease, once it wears off - you get the rattle you are experiencing. I got tired of taking it to the dealer, and was unable to cure with my own resources (WD-40, silicone spray, etc).

    You need the Honda Shin-Etsu grease. Only a little dab will do you.

    1. Put the window down
    2. Take some Windex and spray onto a paper towel and clean out the channel.
    3. Apply a very small amount of grease to a paper towel and run along the channel.
    4. Put window up and down a few times and that should do it.
  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    Thanks Stickguy.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    Service manager replaced one of the rocker arms, which seems to have quelled the noise, at least for now. We'll see how it goes.

  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    Hello All,
    I have a brand new 07 Odyssey RES/Navi. I purchased it around 5 miles, and it has about 250 miles on it now. I noticed that when driving on a straigth road, I have to keep my steering wheel very slightly turned to the rigth, to keep the vehicle in a straigth line. Is that a allignment issue? Do I need to be concerned?

  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Posts: 108
    Congrats on your '07 CRV!!

    Does your steering wheel naturally want to be turned slightly to the right? If it goes there naturally, then it's possible it's just your steering wheel that needs to be centered. Otherwise, if you have to move the steering wheel to the right to keep a straight line, then yes, it could be your alignment, in which case, the dealer should cover it for free for the first 12K miles.

    Also, be sure that you weren't dealing with a situation where there was a crown in the road, in which case, the right lane will want to pull your car right, or the left lane will want to pull your car left.
  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    Thanks rrbhokies,
    In either case I will have it checked by the dealer.

  • pkirangipkirangi Posts: 29
    There used to be topic "Honda Odyssey Extended Warrenty Discussions" . I dont see it now. Has it been moved?

  • mark60050mark60050 Posts: 2

    I have a 2000 Odyssey which I purchased in Sept 1999. It only has 79K miles. According to the owner's manual the timing belt should be replaced after 7 years. I was wondering if it was a necessary change or whether I could hold off a couple of years since the dealer suggests it cost $750. Moreover, he says checking it for wear costs about half. Note, I am still well under the 105K mile recommended change.

    By the way, has anyone tried having their timing belt replaced by someone other then the dealer?

  • dsrtrat2dsrtrat2 Posts: 223
    Bad things can happen if the timing belt fails. Check around for better prices from Honda dealers. I've found a dealer that charges $400.00 and you can get 10 or 15% coupons off from their internet site also.

    I checked with one independent shop and their price was same as most dealers.

    They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart and probably replace the drive belts at that time also.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart...

    You might as well replace those parts while they are doing it. They have to come out to replace the belt so it's cheap to do it now.
  • orlandoflorlandofl Posts: 9
    mark60050, I have a 2000 Odyssey, and just went through the same dilemma that you're going through; same mileage, same age.

    I agree with dsrtrat2 and robr2. You should have them replace the water pump at the same time.

    The reason that it's so expensive is the amount of time that it takes. I bought the official service manual and when I read through all the steps involved, I knew I was in over my head.

    The reason that you change the water pump at the same time is because, if the water pump fails AFTER you've changed the timing belt, you have to get in there, again, with the same labor charge.

    I phoned around and found an independent shop that would replace the timing belt AND the water pump and tensioner belt and seals for $675 ($575 timing belt only). I believe your price of $750 from the dealer was just for the timing belt.

    I went for it because I've heard too many horror stories about a broken timing belt. After talking to quite a few people about this, they all claimed that we should easily get 200,000 miles out of these Hondas.

    I justified the investment by thinking that maybe my van was only half way through its life. After seeing what a 2000 Odyssey is currently worth (not much), I figure it's worth it to keep it for another 7 years (if possible.)

    Also, when you consider how much I've spent on maintenance over the course of 7 years, it's been very little. I've been lucky and have never had a major issue with my van.

    I found Orlando Honda-Acura, which is run by 2 former Honda service technicians. They're eager to grow their business and they did a great job at a great price (gotta give 'em a plug.)

    I hope you're able to find a local shop in your area. Good luck.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    another option, call around to various dealers. see if they have coupons on-line. they don't all charge the same for this sort of maintenance.
  • ocuihsocuihs Posts: 138
    DAYCO Part # 84093 {Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt,Interference Engine / Timing Belt Not Included}
    Kit ---> $48.79

    HONDA Part # 14400P8AA02OE {Timing Belt #14400P8AA02} --> $44.79
  • jasheltonjashelton Posts: 1
    My wife started having trouble a couple of months ago getting her '03 Odyssey out of Park. I took off the plastic steering column cover yesterday and noticed a part that was not moving that was supposed to move when the brake was applied. Any ideas on what needs to be done?
  • mom24asdsmom24asds Posts: 2
    We took our 2001 odyssey to Tunex the other day for a tune-up. It has about 87,500 miles. When my husband picked up the van, after about a block of driving he noticed that the SRS light was on. He immediately took it back to Tunex who told him, (of course) that the SRS light suddenly turning on had nothing to do with them. They changed the spark plugs and that's about it. Any ideas on why the SRS light would go on all of the sudden? oh yea, my husband also mentioned that the seatbelt (driver's) was stuck and he had to pull on it two or three times to get it to come out. Could that have been something from Tunex, or is it a problem w/the seatbelts in 2001's? Thanks
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    which light? the one on the instrument cluster, or the one on the dash closest to the rear fan speed control?
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