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Comments
Macakava
I used to do oil changes myself on my Subaru Loyale car since it was easy to get under it without having to jack it up and the oil drain plug was towards the front of the car, as was the oil filer. But my Honda Accord sits so low that it is impossible to do it myself and I am bit reluctant to put it on ramps.
How do you do the Odyssey oil changes. Do you use ramps or jacks? If so what make and where do you buy them. How difficult or easy is it to do the oil changes? Where do you get the drain plug washers for the Odyssey? If it looks reasonably easy, I might like to do the oil changes myself.
Thanks
As for changing the pollen (cabin) air filter behind the glove box, it's a different story. It exposes Honda engineers as fallible human beings. Thankfully, this is only done every 2 years! Putting the cabin filter behind things that obviously weren't meant to be easily moved or taken apart makes this biannual event as eagerly anticipated as your next colinoscopy! -sbpceap
This ramp work great for our family of 5 vehicles - no slipping or sliding.
Oil changes are easy on the Ody. However removing the filter will drop oil on a control arm member - so I line that part with aluminum foil to keep the oil away from it. You can get the washer from the Honda dealer for less than 30cents each -but I have reused the old washer with no oil leak problem so far.
It cost me less than $5 in oil and filter after buying these parts on sale. You can get rid of the used oil at Advance Auto stores and also most Auto Zone stores as well. Some Jiffy Lube stores will also take it as well.
The 05 Ody has a "Maintenance Minder" that directs you to perform required maintenance (and not unnecessary maintenance). There is no predetermined time/mileage on most of the maintenance. No trying to decide if you meet the Normal or Severe driving conditions. It's probably an uncomfortable change fo those who have many years of the 3,000 mile/90 day oil change interval ingrained in them. The computer tracks the mileage and driving characteristics and displays a code when it is time for maintenance. The code is displayed on the dash where the odometer/temperature info is. You have probably already seen the percent of oil life remaining indicator there. The code relates to the codes you find in the owners manual.
Example:
A1 -
A - Oil Change 1 - tire rotation
Thanks,
Simon
i used a pair of metal snips to cut away the plastic horizontal member hiding access to the metal bracket. i believe your comment about the plastic adding rigidity for dash installation - makes sense - that stuff is all pretty soft plastic. still seems a shame to cut it away - but i figure if the MDX people have to do it, the Ody people can do it to.
as you state, the bolt on the left holding the metal bracket in place behind the center console is very very difficult to gain access to... i used a very small 8mm open-ended wrench to back it out (i backed it out all the way and completely removed the bracket; didn't try just loosening it to the maximum extent possible). my mistake. to re-install it when the job was done, i used a piece of electrical tape over the bolt hole, then pushed the bolt through it -the electrical tape holding the bolt in place for me. a job for three hands! if i had just grossly loosened it like you, and dropped the bar down, that would have saved me a lot of time and effort. if i ever do this again...i'll try what you did.
one wonders why they couldn't have used a multi-part metal bracket so perhaps only the right side would require removal. however, strategically placed members can add a great deal to stuctural / cabin integrity, specially for the front passenger. i assume a multi-part bracket wouldn't have the same characteristics.
geesh - i'm thinking of purchasing a honda or haynes service manual to see how the pros do it! maybe that trick you used on the bolt for the bracket on the left hand side is in there.
I have the Honda service manual. There were no easy suggestions in it by nor for the pros. In fact, the instructions were spotty at best. The illustrations were also simple line drawings showing what screws to remove, including a couple that didn't even have to be removed. Maybe the Haynes is better?
To be honest, it did seem like the top and bottom of the metal braket were both rolled and also - the bracket body itself seemed to be "pressed/formed" in a manner i believe to increase crush rigidity both axially and perpendicularly (is that a word)? while we really don't know how stucturally significant that metal bracket may be, we *might* infer from the presence of the 8mm bolts at both ends, that it's the 8mm bolts which are probably the weakest link.
Sort of nice to know the Honda service manual doesn't provide tricks that weren't immediately obvious. Now I see why it costs so much to replace the darn filter. You think the mechanics HATE this portion of the 30/60/90/120 service?
I talked to a technician at a local Honda dealership and he said he had the same problem with a set of Michelin's and that he changed over to Goodyear tires when his wore out. He was speaking off the record, of course, because Honda apparently has a deal with Michelin. I tried to see if Michelin would give me some sort of a warranty credit on a new set of tires but their whole process sounds like a hassle. It would be much easier for me to just go and get a new set of Goodyear (or other) tires. Has anyone else had a similar experience?
Don't confuse high quality with longevity. Most OEM tires are a compromise. The OEM Michelins on my 98 Accord lasted about 40K. The OEM ones on my 00 Odyssey have about 38K on them and they are on their last season.
Honda wants $130 to provide this service - I'm thinking it probably double what jiffy lube might charge, but I'm concerned that it should be thoroughly flushed unlike an oil change.
I've got 33k miles on my '02 oddy and the tranny has never given me any problems despite towing a 1,200 lbs trailer up to the Sierras several times. The engine in this vehicle is very impressive.
Use Honda's ATF at about $4-5 per qt. and it will cost about $35.
http://www.tirerack.com will allow you to compare several tires up against each other and has other very good information on tire selection, ratings and capability.
the forum "Ask Connor at the TireRack" will allow you to make inquiries with a Tire Specialist.
I have 2000 Odyssey with 30k miles and I have change A/C filter soon, Could you tell me how do change this filter and where I can find it?
Thank you very much.
Joe
Marcel
Since the EGR valve was replaced the car drives like new - I'm looking forward to measuring my gas milege now with the fix.
Since my car was there I had them flush the ATF - they got me pretty good on that for $130 - think I'll do it myself next time.
Now when I start the engine in the morning, it starts with some noise and I need to hold the key for a whle. Is it related to tranmission fluid?
Thanks.
I was reading a message elsewhere that talked about rere-settinghe MVD display. Turn to the item you wish to reset. Turn the engine off; push in the button on the dash; with the button pushed in, turn engine to on (not start) and continue to hold button in. The message stated it should reset in no more than 15 seconds.
Two weeks ago I experienced my first 'flat' with the PAX system that is a standard feature on the 05 Touring Oddy, a nail in the tire causing a slow leak. To my horror, I found that PAX system tires cannot be fixed today as an ordinary tire would be were it to pick up a nail, and no one is really clear about when they will be subject to simple repair. Instead, you must install, not just a new tire, but an entire new wheel assembly that will cost in excess of $550 EACH in the event the situation is not covered by warranty. The wheel assemblies are only available now at Honda dealers, which in turn are only located in populous areas of states. I drive a lot, and a lot of that driving is in remote areas. Instead of having the reliable vehicle I intended to purchase, I have one that can hold me up for a couple of days and cost a fortune to fix the problem if I pick up a nail. Does anyone have any infoinformationt can reassure me that my understanding is in error? If so, please let me know the real scoop.
:shades:
So--thoughts? anyone else see this?
Thanks
Roy
I Just got my 2006 Odyssey EX, and I'm experiencing something which i'm not sure if its normal or not. After I start the car, after being parked for a minute or two, and then driving off, I hear a slight clank sound (for a second), that occurs once and goes away. Not sure if it deals with the initial shifting of gears or what. But I dont hear it after that point. It only occurs after the car has been parked.
Any feedback would be appreciated,
Thanks,
If so, that's the ABS system doing a self-check. All vehicles do it - some louder than others. It's perfectly normal.
I was trying to post to the "Run-flat, self-sealing, PAX tires for Minivans" discussion, but it's a read-only discussion.
Anyhow, I was wondering about something and maybe someone can help clarify it for me.
Lets say I have about 30K on my new 2006 Odyssey PAX tires. All of a sudden, one tires goes flat and needs a replacement. Do I replace only the flat wheel? If yes, wouldn't that make the ride a little akward and also cause more wear due to uneveness.
Normally, you replace them in pair, not just one. Are the PAX tires a special exception or just to expensive to replace in a pair?
Also, every Honda dealers requires you to make an appointment when you need maintenance on a car. At one time, we had 3 local Honda dealers say they are very busy and book for the entire week and would not be able to service our Honda Accord car. If I get a flat on my PAX tires, will they service my car right away vs waiting a week for the next available appointment? It's not like I can take the Odyssey to any service shop.
Thanks!
About the "Check Engine" light provoked by your Quick Lub oil changes, my take is to fill the new oil filter with 5W-20 oil before installing it... I get the feeling that the Check Engine light gets triggered while the new oil is still circulating through the system and the oil filter... By filling the new oil filter with new oil first will shorten the time for the oil to reach all the engine components... My 2 cents.
I would say that the paint, being this is an 05 model, your dealership should be able to help you... But, check your warranty booklet first to verify the coverage, especially within the first year. I would say you have a good chance. Good Luck!
Steve
FYI The EPA sticker MPG is based on a computer model that is going 48mph on the flat with the A/C off. Most stickers are inflated 10-15% and some cars are as high as 20%.
For example, my local Honda dealer charges $4.50/qt for ATF-Z1 plus sales tax for about $4.85. I recently purchased(with no sales tax) and received 2 cases(24 qts) of Honda ATF-Z1 fluid for $3.25/qt; several drain($1.25 ea) and fill ( $2.50ea ) tranny washers, and Honda Ody front brake pad set $39.99. The total weight was 50+ lbs for only $5.95.
Since I intend to do at least 2 drain and fill for each tranny oil change, I would use almost a case (of 12 qts) with each tranny change. On reflection, as I plan to do tranny oil changes every 25K miles, I should have bought 3 cases of ATF-Z1 for the same $5.95 fee. Like my engine oil and filter which I change every 3K/3months, it is cheap insurance against engine and tranny failures.
For those who take their cars to garages for tranny service, beware that some garages(even some dealers I heard) use cheaper Dexron ATF for obvious reasons - which would result in poor tranny performance and eventual breakdown.
Happy grease monkeying!!
Steve
I stumbled through resetting the oil display after the first oil change (and filter change, always). But after the second it added the A code (valve adjustment not needed) and I could not reset until reading several messages. Push, ignition on, hold...
Thanks again.
Thanks
My dealer has stated that 97T gives me 80kilograms less weight to carry. Would that matter so much? I live in southern Ontario, Canada; where it's about (24-30C) 75-85F in the summer and December to March 30th it's (-15 to zero C) 5-32F. If I went to the 99T would I have problems with oversizing/clearances?
I like the comfort and snow traction with the Symmetry but they wear out too soon (80K).
Please everyone let me know you thoughts.
Thank you!
:confuse: