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Comments
I owned two Jeep Wranglers before the Pathy and the Pathy was only a little bit better in the snow. With the Pathy being heavier I think it should have handled much better (like a Jeep Grand Cheeoke). I almost thought that the 4wd was not engaging and tried a quick trip around the block in 2wd (slightly worse handling).
Any help would be great
The stock tires are rather poor in snow or on ice (I have the Dunlops on my 2001 LE). We haven't had enough snow since 2000 when I got mine to comment on deep snow, but I've been sliding around lots on ice and light snow. I especially don't like the antilock brake setup.
pathstar: do you think it's just the tires, and that with a set of tires better suited for winter that the pathfinder would perform much better in the snow?
btw, the jerking forward thing happens to me too.
Thule: Assume the deflector you describe is the Thule product? Nice to know that it works! I will keep in mind. I considered the fairing, but based on my set-up with the combi box, the Thule fairing would come down in the middle of my sunroof [I have to put the box far enough forward that I can open the rear hatch without hitting the rear of the box.] I know Thule makes accessories that can attach to the factory racks (which I think it sounds like you did?), but I went ahead and replaced the whole LE rack with the Thule towers, bars, locks, etc. I think I'm going to have to go for the sunroof deflector - anyone have a report on how much it cut down the wind noise on their factory (or aftermarket) racks?
Snow slippage / tire pressure / etc.: Since lowering my PSI to 30, I have a definite improvement (obviously) in all this crud and ice around here. I have not owned another 4WD vehicle, so I am not the expert on bases for comparison though. But, at 30 PSI, even on the admittedly inferior-rated Duelers, I seem to really be able to rip it around town in AUTO and 4HI. The other day in the snowstorm going to the emergency room, it seemed great other than the one time I really tried to force it to test the VDC (which did kick in). [Again, I may be too used to 2WD cars for comparison.] If smokey75 is close to 30K on his original Duelers at 26 PSI (thanks for the report!), then I may just leave at 30 now for all this wet stuff, etc. I can live with 30K miles on this set (20K would be ridiculous though) and then replace, yes, with Michelins - my favorite brand of tire for most situations, even with the higher cost. Again, not sure WHY Nissan moved placard to 30 PSI, but the most telling change to me is the new '03 low tire pressure sensors which fire at 25 PSI! . . . Nissan owes some explanation there, agreed. Depending on their response, maybe on your next set try 30 PSI? Not sure, but very curious.
As for the proper pressure, go to a level paved surface with your vehicle loaded as you would normally have it. Use a piece of chalk and mark each tire with a line all the way across the tread. Drive 100 yards or so and check the chalk marks. They should wear evenly. If the centre wears more than the edges, you have too high pressure, and if the edges wear more too low (make sure you move in a straight line - turning will wear the chalk at the edges faster). This is the preferred method for determining tire pressures on "normal" tires (as opposed to "ballon" tires such as the older "True Trak" style which actually get larger as you inflate them to higher pressures).
P.S. will try chalk when weather improves. thx!
Take a closer look at the lic. plates on the cars and trucks parked next to yours and you will find that most of them are from out of states.
Mjohnr99 is right, Westin Safari Bar in Black with Two New Driving or Fog Lights will do justice for your new PF.
Greetings and happy Holidays to all
Full5.
- on the gas gauge that I've seen some discuss, when I was waiting for it to hit exactly the "E line" to fill up, I of course noticed having about 3 or so gallons left in the tank. Big reserve I thought. Well . . . just noticed in the manual that the line I thought was the Empty line is NOT the empty line (i.e., that last bottom line is not it!). Actually, the Empty position is the letter E itself. Just noticed in the manual that Empty is marked at the 6 o'clock position, which is the E letter. Duh. So, Full is closer to 12 o'clock and Empty is closer to 6 o'clock - hope this helps any others who goofed it in predicting when they were getting too low on gas. So, I wonder, per the manual, how much of a reserve tank is left once I truly hit the letter E empty mark?
- on the bad news: first problem on new '03 LE. I keep headlights always in auto, and when parked in garage yesterday they did NOT turn off!! I did not wait the 45 sec. to verify - but 3 hours later when I got a call that my lights were on I said "impossible." If in fact, I had left in the ON position accidentally, I knew the 5 minute turn-off protection would have kicked in (which has worked when tested). BUTTT, I go down and YES they are on, the headlight switch yes is in AUTO, and the battery is almost DEAD (lights work, but not enough juice to start!!!!!!!). Couldn't believe this. Since then, I have tried to repeat the malfunction to no avail. Everything works perfectly of course. Not sure whether to wait for increase in presence of problem or go to dealer now - what a pain having to wait the 45 secs to verify each time; at the same time, don't want to go through the time/energy yet taking in to dealer when problem can't be repeated and is probably due to a bad switch that is working 99% of the time but may fail only intermittently. Any suggestions? Any one heard of anyone else on these boards having this same problem? Thanks.
I've never owned a new vehicle and I've been driving a 3000GT for the last 5 years. I have owned a truck before but many years ago. SO I'm not sure if this is just me getting acclimated or it's a problem.
For a brand new vehicle(350 miles now) the truck seems a little rough. I'll do my best to explain.
When coasting or slowly accelerating at about 20mph and 1000rpm's I feel a lot of vibration and it doesn't seem to be smooth. I also feel like the truck is straining when going from a stop or minimal speed to around 55mph. But once I'm there it's fine.
I also notice a lot of smoke when starting the vehicle in the morning.
Where I live the temp has been below freezing for the most part.
Which brings me to my next point. It takes forever for this thing to warm up.
So...........am I just dealing with somethings I need to get used to or do I have problems with a new vehicle?
I bought this vehicle based on reviews and what I've been reading here about it's reliability. I'm hoping I made the right choice. Thanx!
OK, on to the relief (or disbelief) with my '03 LE: pulling into my work garage this morning reminded me of something that was "unique" about my morning yesterday when I had the problem: I exited the vehicle from the passenger door because my driver's door was up next to a garage post. AND, as it turns out, if you are in AUTO headlight mode and you do NOT exit the driver's door and slide over and out the passenger side instead, the headlights will stay on past 45 seconds and remain on permanently despite the fact that the ignition is off and you are outside the locked vehicle, key in hand. I was able to repeat this numerous times and it made no difference whether parking brake on or off, passenger door locked or unlocked, etc. - the key factor was whether the driver's door was opened and closed. Anyone want to check their's out to confirm that it does the same? I guess you need to be careful then if you ever exit the way I did! Makes sense given onboost's post that AUTO headlamps with stay on longer than 45 seconds if you leave the driver's door ajar . . . BUTTTTTTT what I can't figure out is why didn't the back-up headlamp off feature kick-in to turn the headlamps off after the 5 minute mark???? My guess is that the way Nissan wired this is that that 5 minute feature ONLY works when the headlights are in the true ON mode, and the feature isn't wired for the AUTO mode. Can someone do me a favor and verify that the 5 minute back-up off feature does not kick in when they go through this sequence? If you guys concur that your's does the same, you saved me a trip to the dealer and I'll just chalk this one up to a design "flaw" that really shouldn't be that much of a problem IF you don't park next to cement posts often! ;>
Thanks in advance. Hope this helps others avoid dead batteries!
First, let me tell you that the Auto light snafu happened to me too. for some reason one night the lights never closed despite the fact I was on Auto. I was more fortunate than Mjohnr99 as I went into the garage to pickup some tools and I realized the lights were on. It only happened once a couple days after I bought the truck. I did not complain here or at the dealer because I thought I had done something wrong and it never happened again. But I have to admit that it is a nuisance that the light do not turn off when switching off the engine on Auto. To me at least it serves no purpose to have the headlight on after I leave the car. People stop me sometimes in parking lots to tell me that I forgot to turn off my lights....... I wish that the dealer could easily change that programming. But I got used to all that and I did not experience any inconvenience since then.
New truck: All I can say Mediaguy is that it takes a little while to get used to the specificities of any new vehicle. I remember exchanging posts with M99 around the end of october about similar issues. Looking back now I think it was only normal since I had been driving my previous truck for almost 4 years. The Pathfinder felt weird a bit, but now it feels so good, so smooth. I wish I could test drive my old 4Runner to see if I would be missing the power and cornering abilities of the Pathfinder.
While I got used to the AUTO issue I never could get used to the poor mileage (MPG) I'm getting from the Pathfinder compared to my Runner. I'm about to put masking tape over the digital counter to stop worrying about that ;-)
Warming up: yes the Pathfinder could warm up faster to be honest. When I leave the garage obviously it warms fast but when I leave the arking lot at the end of the day (average 20 farenheit these days) I can drive over 5 minutes before it warms enough for the Auto climate to start throwing warm air. But the 4Runner was not much better to be honest.
The only real problem I have experienced so far is very poor radio reception. I'm waiting for the first service visit before complaining to the dealer since it is minor. I was talking about this with my wife, it is the fisrt car we have bought that we did not go to the dealer the first 2 months to get thing fixed or tweaked. I visited the dealer at least 5 times the first 2 months of ownership of my 4Runner to get a very bad rattle problem in my front suspension...
So, so far I'd give a good 9.0/10 to my Pathfinder.
Ciao all
World
My major concern I guess is the vibarations that I'm feeling. I' guess I'll just drive it and enjoy it. If it breaks I'll get it fixed:)
And I have to remember.....it's a truck and not a sports car!
Next feat is to figure out how to wash and wax in the winter. Anyone ever go to a car wash?
BTW: I got black on black and it's sharp when it's clean. But of course I only got to see that for the first day. It's been snowing or raining since.
Must be a change in more recent models?
Roughness at 20 MPH/1K RPMS: tried repeatedly to feel something different at that engine speed, but still nothing out of the ordinary at least to me. Just feels like it's ready and waiting for you to step on it so to speak, like it just doesn't want to sit there and cruise at that speed/RPM. Again, subjective. For comparison, I'm at 1,700 miles on my '03 LE.
Black on Black and wash/wax: I'm paranoid of a lot (not all) of the car washes (make sure you remove antenna) especially with Thule racks on top and the possibility of the black paint getting trashed, so I run a hose out of our mud room with a hot/cold split so that I have a nice luke warm to rinse cars in the winter. Works great for the salt. Having tried this in sub-freezing on a black Honda, I can tell you the warm water does nonetheless freeze up quickly like a bunch of slush/ice, so I don't think I will do this on the LE in sub-freezing conditions as not sure how good the quick temp change can be on the paint/finish. As far as wax, etc., to be safe, I thought you were generally supposed to wait a year for the paint/clear coat to finish sealing, etc. (N.B.: a year from "manufacture date," check VIN label), but that may depend on manufacturer and make and not sure about Nissan. On black cars, search one of these Nissan boards where I explained my recent positive experience with (believe it or not) Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell LIQUID, what Consumers' Reports put as one of the best for black paint.
2003 Auto headlights: yes, they apparently changed it, on '03s the auto headlights remain on for 45 seconds after you have turned off the ignition AND have exited the vehicle by the driver's door.
rattling window noise: search these boards; I swear I remember some of these long-time posters (Phil47?) talking about this issue and the pros/cons of addressing it at the dealer, etc.
I did a quick wash on my truck yesterday. I suck at washing cars. It looks worse now:) Car wash for me.
And to top all this off..........I got a small ding in my windshield right in front of the driver side................Well maybe summer I'll get to enjoy my truck.........hope the damn sunroof works:)
My truck was still dirty when I got done washing. Rain would have done a better job than I did. I used Maguires wash and a sponge. Rinsed, washed, and used a chamois to dry. I figured I didn't have to try real hard since I only had it a week.
I wipe dry with the chamois. My friend said your not supposed to rub with the chamois which is what I was doing.
Yes, I have a chamois and you don't need to rub it (I realize I said "rub") - you kind of pull it and the water off in one motion together. I always stuck to that method until this SUV where I decided to give this other product a try. Anything to save time. What I initially thought would be a gimmick (like the CA car duster or something) actually works. To me, it cuts down time definitely (because chamois not as good on windows and vertical surfaces IMHO). I did some Advanced searches just now and others on this board have tried product too. [The best approach would be using both, but I'll save such an esoteric discussion for the "Car Wash Board." ;>>> ]
[Amazing the info on here; some day I plan to start at the beginning and work through all of them. Do some advanced searches. Almost everything at one point or another has been posted on.]
M99 [I like that WT]
I'm planning to stay away from car wash too. I now have a large garage and I can wash the cars inside during winter.
I'm washing the cars almost every week these days. There is a lot of salt on the roads and I really don't like it on my truck.
I also use a chamoi but I'm not impressed with the results so far. But Pewter is easier to keep clean so people cannot really see the marks. I'll wait for summer to trying other tools or tricks as my truck gets dirty a bit 2 corners from my house anyway this time of year.
We haven't had anymore snow lately so I cannot try VSC off, I'm looking forward to that.
I just passed the 1000 miles mark. I feel that the truck is less stiff. I guess the pieces are falling into place providing somewhat of a smoother ride and the driver is also past its own breakin period ;-)
Have you followed any 4Runner threads here in Townhall lately ? What is happening there ? Any breaking news ? I'm keeping my promise... I will not visit that board for another little while :-()
Ciao !!!
WT
Ive used real chamois in the past and there was no comparison (and forget about towels).
hello WT: don't go back to the Runner board, just a bunch of new car owners (like some of us ;>>) figuring out what for them are first-year idiosyncracies with their vehicle. One thing strange: not much bragging about prices (you think some would be getting deals now compared to anticipated gouging). Still, can't beat what I paid for this LE. As you know from my many comments over there before the LE decision, cars are not investments and the idea that the 4-5K more they are spending is a better "investment" because the car holds its value "better" is nonsense, IMHO. If you can buy my assumption that the 2 vehicles will more or less reliably serve (for many, certainly not ALL) the same purpose of transporting you and your gear (wife, kids, dog, etc.) in work and play, you should (if you can overcome emotional desires to climb Everest and focus on fiscal) go with the savings and invest or something else: either pay off any credit card debt, or do what I told those guys I would do, buy into this cheap market - I bought 4K of AMTD in October and it has already increased 25%. Of course you never know with any of these things (they may get cheaper yet!), but I hope that the research and investment into this stock (versus that vehicle) now will lead to returns on that 4K that in 7 years completely outshine any higher resale value that the new 4th Gen will have at that point. Again, I disagree with these "models" that attempt to show you the true monthly cost of owning the vehicle (Edmunds even has one I think) which seem to ignore the opportunity cost of not being able to invest the initial money you save on the lower cost (but faster depreciating) vehicle in an offsetting higher return (on average) investment. But I digress . . . (Sorry, like you, Toyota's big design goof(s) strikes a nerve and I get carried away . . .)
Oh yah (slight thing you might be interested in), us defectors and the rest apparently won in our cladding revolt: Mackabee claims color-keyed is definitely an SR5 option code next year. Feels good to have put 31K where my mouth was.
Back on point:
Problem: Low MPG. Wanted to report back that on my '03 (close to 2K miles now using 93 octane and ~30/70 split in time between AUTO and 2WD in daily commuting and weekend driving), I have been getting less MPG (with the tires having been reset down at 30 PSI per placard) now with the past three tanks than previously reported. Getting 13.6 MPG now, instead of 14.3. I was happy with 14.3 (given CTY rating of 15 MPG) and blamed 0.7 difference on Thule wind resistance. Yes, like others, the 13 range is a little disappointing and I am not sure there is a "solution." I will admit though, I accelerate quickly almost ALL the time. I have tried, but never seem to be able to try a whole tank accelerating smoothly, coasting to lights, driving 55-60 on freeway, etc. like my Dad somehow can. On the last issue, interesting point I read was about the resistance of a vehicle increasing as a square of its speed. [Thus, driving 70+ MPH cuts MPG.] I would love to go on a trip and drive 55-60 MPH non-stop for 250-300 miles - I bet I would get the HWY rated 19 MPG for sure!
Happy Holidays to all.
Haha, if you drive 55 mph for a tankful of gas, you'll get upwards of 21 mpg! (I've done it, caravanning with a slow-moving U-haul from San Francisco to Phoenix.)
All you need to do to improve your fuel economy is remove the lead from your foot: try to keep the RPMs below 3000 (always!) and don't drive above 70 mph.
That's my experience anyway...
That's a good one! My gut still hurts...
Sorry to break the news, but if you're anything like me, even after 2 years you'll continue to drive this great truck like you're 17 years old with a couple buddies in the back seat. My gas mileage still sucks only because I can't seem to get my foot off the floorboards. However, as xplorx4 sez, when you try to drive civil-like, especially on the highway, the mileage is much improved.
Enjoy the ride!
I retract whatever I said about acceleration. The Pathfinder does accelerate quicker and it performs great in downtown driving where you have to accelerate quickly and brake quickly when you want to avoid doubled-parked cars.
The Pathfinder is definitely more fun to drive and I enjoy thoroughly the added HP. But the 4Runner was no wimp. The 183HP would provide you with "interesting" accelerations under most circumstances. I think they staid with the 183HP engine that long because it was well balanced for the 4Runner. I only complained about lack of power in the 4Runner when I was pulling my boat on hills.
I'm looking forward to test the Pathfinder power when I will tow my 3000 pound boat/trailer next spring.
I am curently looking for a reasonable off-road track in my area to try my Pathfinder off-road. I'm passed the breakin period and the novelty has wore off a bit :-) so I'm now eager to try it off-road. The semi-wrecked backroad in my area is not enough to my taste.
But I'll be careful nonetheless.... The Pathfinder does not seem as rugged as my Runner. I have the impression that I have to be careful to some extent with the Pathfinder. Maybe it is the luxury feel of the LE that makes me feel that way (vs the rough finish of the Sr5V6 I had). But I don't mind being proven wrong. I guess I'll have to try myself to draw a more precise conclusion.
M99, Have you done any offroading yet ???
Ciao
WT
Explanation: We have needed a mid-size SUV since 2000, when we got our first home and I became both a "handyman" and "landscape designer." Beyond the stereo typical Home Depot and plant nursery uses, I really wanted it mainly for my muddy black lab (ruining the cars) and all the hiking around DC, the towing of a jet ski (and possibly a light ski boat this summer), the camping trips we do with all the equipment (4WD may come into play there . . ), and winter ski trips (4WD maybe again . . .) we hope to do to Snowshoe, etc. (I'm a west coast native, but that is the best out here). So, by this standard, I think we are more why SUVs became so mainstream and (unfortunately) I can not claim to be the true off roader. The Runner was a favorite because I am one who places reliability first and foremost (I go crazy with even the thought of having to take it into the shop . . .), and I liked the idea of having the capability to truly "off road." But, being honest, that would only have involved the bumps and pits and ditches of wrecked back roads and wood trails (for example camping or on yearly paintball outings . . . don't ask), not boulder bashing. I think Intmed99 knew enough and provided enough posts that the body and frame, ground clearance, etc. of the 3rd Gen (sounds like the 4th Gen as well) would be superior over the boulders than this LE. But at least for me, in retrospect the runner was only a solution for a problem that I really didn't have. :> So, I'll take the LE's HP and the $4K stock investment.
But, I do have some friends with Jeep Wranglers, etc. that do do the real stuff, and I know I will get a chance to check out that 4HI/4LOW with them (more conservatively of course). BTW, they all told me how much they always loved the looks of the Pathfinder and that I've got "a mean truck" in my hands (at least looks wise I guess . . . but that's saying a lot compared to new plastic 4Runner . . . plus, I think by mean they were referring to its performance being pretty darn good in semi-serious off road situations). We shall see hopefully soon whether it is more than looks and as always I will report back with results.
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/comparison/articles/53479/page008.html
Still, my "problem" was, yes, I would have to actually drive to a job in this thing as well . . . :>
Don't be fooled: The Pathfinder is no slouch when the pavement ends. Sure, it may not have the same ground clearance as a 'Runner, but it does a good job holding its own.
I own a '97 LE (nearly mechanically identical to an '02 SE, except for the engine of course), which is now over 107,000 miles old, and its seen a fair amount of severe off-highway use. Considering the flogging it's received off-highway (and on-highway!) it hasn't had any truly significant problems.
(Click here to see just how far you can go off-road in a late-model Pathfinder.)
I don't plan to do any rock climbing with my new Pathfinder ;-) Maybe it could handle it but no way in hell will I drive my new vehicle in such conditions.
No, what I'm looking for are safe and reasonable paths but in very bad condition.
Near our cottage we have some wood-trails. The govt forces the wood companies to chop trees at least one mile deep in the wood to save the looks of our region for visitors and local people. These trails are large because of the 10-wheeler bringing the wood out so you do not get to scratch your vehicle. The paths are in a very bad condition because the trucks use them even when it rains. So it is very hard to drive into on the wekend mainly after a rain shower. Lots of mud, you have to plan you route in the mess and watch out for rock that stick out too much. Lots of fun.
There are no such road around where I live and the cottage is a 2.5 hours drive. We plan to go to the cottage between Christmas and the new year so I may have an opportunity then to try them out a bit if there is not too much snow. Worst case I'll have to wait for spring before trying them out.
Aside from that, I bought my truck for the same reasons you bought yours (reliability, bang for the buck, convenience, etc).
I had my 4Runner (previous vehicle) on the "confluence trail" at Canyonlands about 5 years ago. It would bottom out the trailer hitch (class III) but that was all (I was rather carefull). The vehicle was not modified. I suspect the trailer hitch protected the rear bumper several times. You can do this at very low speeds without worrying about damaging the vehicle, just as long as you don't "touch" ground objects with the body. I also had a Subaru wagon off-road on a forestry lookout trail where the "real" 4 wheel drive vehicles were taking off mufflers etc. This worked because the Subaru was small enough so that I could avoid the deep ruts they had to drive through.
So, my conclusion is that with proper tires (for body clearance and traction) and a bit of care (and perhaps some skill as well), there is no reason the Pathfinder would not be fine off-road.
I just wanted to say in my post that I felt that my 4Runner felt more rugged and solid than the Pathfinder. I might be all wrong, it is a question of impression.... not facts. Like I mentionned it might because of the LE luxury finish over my somewhat crude SR5 finish I had. Practically the Pathfinder might be as capable than my old Runner at least for my needs.
I also agree with you about le lower stance of the Pathfinder. I think it corners much better than the 4Runner and I like that a lot. It is easier also for my wife and kids to climb into.
But I think that the pathfinder "pumpkin" sits a bit lower than the 3rd gen 4Runner. I did not measure but looking at my Pathfinder from behind in the garage I can swear that the pumpkin is a bit lower. I would be more cautious going in mud hole that I don't know or going over stuff. It'd be nice to have a formal measurement of that, from actual people and not from manufacturers stats.
Ground clearance, yes drop a tape from the pumpkin' and you'll get the minimum running ground clearance. I remember this discussion on the runner board. Here are the numbers:
3rd Gen Runner:
- Toyota brochure listed "ground clearance" = 11" (who knows what they were measuring!);
- True, measured tape from the pumpkin "minimum running ground clearance" = ~ 9.8" with the stock tires. At one point, Intmed99 said his '02 measured 10.1" from the pumpkin, but I think he did not have stock tires??
I did not run down to the garage to drop a tape, but I did this the day I bought the LE (with stock tires, 17" wheels), and can confirm it was less than 9.8", I think at least by a half inch, maybe an inch??? Someone could go measure . . . (make sure stock tires, etc.)
As for the 4th Gen Runner, the LE's minimum running ground clearance may be about the same:
4th gen Runner:
- Toyota brochure listed "ground clearance" = 9.1";
- True, measured "minimum running ground clearance" = ??? (maybe ~ 8.3", gotta ask someone on the board over there).
Anyway, I don't know what this all means as I know there is a lot more to it than this (break-over angles, etc.). In any event, some shopper may find this useful if they think they have a problem with the pathfinder's clearance vis-a-vis the new 4Runner.
On auto headlights; I typically just turn the switch from auto to off and back to auto which shuts them off. I do not like the delayed shutoff, especially now that I have heard of a few problems.
Truck now has 2000 miles and has been perfect except for the abysmal gas mileage which around just suburban type driving can get as low as 12 mpg. I have also tried to get it in for the bottoming out TSB fix but the dealer says the part is on backorder which has been the case since Thanksgiving.