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Nissan Pathfinder Owners: Accessories & Modifications
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I think it is a 01 vs 03 issue. Now we would have to see if Nissan has a chrome tip for 2003 that fits 60 mm pipe.
Thanks to this board, ordered the WeatherTech product on a gambit. Can I say: "oh my god." What a difference, the plastic fit and finish was beautiful. No wonder - made in Germany. They are a light smoked high-end plastic that slide into the window tracks - no 3M tape and perfectly lined. I slid the first one in on driver side and was done in 2 minutes flat. Pinch control no problem; auto windows went right up, no interference. Looks beautiful and integrated into the window versus stuck-on the exterior types.
Now, I must admit, passenger side was more difficult. In in 2 minutes, but then pinch control would kick-in every time it tried to go up. Fooled around more about an hour taking in and out, pressing it into track, etc. . . . then I read the directions again: "once window is up, let it sit for 24 hours." Ahhh!! So, I let it go overnight and presto: this AM, no pinch control problem. Played with auto window up and works like a charm every time (20-40 tries on way to work!) - no interference. Plastic apparently bends into place and sets; plus brand new '03 vehicle with window seals just breaking in.
So, I highly recommend this product. Ordered straight from manufacturer at www.weathertech.com for $54. [Only wanted for front windows where I will use them; didn't like looks of doing rear as well; overkill IMHO.]
On the mats, per my previous posts, the Husky Floor Liners are the best bet on the market and the part numbers I gave (i.e., #3611x front, #6611x second seat) will work in an '03 LE per Husky. Almost all the auto sites sell the front and rear liners for $70 each. Some less, but then they add on more in shipping. Some for $70 but with free shipping. All end up about the same. However, www.accessconnect.com sells them for $52 each with free shipping on orders over $100. I placed my order today as I came up with no better price. Search engines would not find this link - it was a post on the main board from someone who buys all their Nissan accessories from these guys. THX!
On the tow hitch: narrowed it down to Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch Class III round tube hitches. Very similar: former no step, latter has step. I liked the look of the "in-between" Putnam brand hitch product (round tube with mini-step), but no one on any of the SUV boards had even posted on it. I ruled out the Nissan $300 product (that's the cost without wiring and without ball mount!) after looking at it yesterday in the Nissan Parts dept: the quality of the hard plastic on the Nissan-logo "rubber" (not really rubber, more like hard plastic) mat looked inferior and appeared it would eventually crack from UVs and a lot of use . . . definitely not worth $161 just to get the Nissan logo on a plastic cover for the step. Rumors were anyway that it is made by Hidden Hitch which sells at www.accessconnect.com for $139. The Hidden Hitch product may in fact be the same as the Nissan, as the metal step has two holes where the plastic "stubs" of the Nissan-logo mat insert would appear to go. In any event, I ordered the $139 Hidden Hitch and will install myself. I will get some Craftsman "real rubber" diamond mat, surfboard rubber/foam "trac top," or equivalent and mount to surface of Hidden Hitch metal step (better than grip tape in the snow, etc.). I think I liked the reputation and name of Draw-Tite better, but because it was so similar to Hidden Hitch, and because the damn' spare is so close to the bumper and this thing was going to stick out so far, I figured I might as well make it useful and get one with a step so that I can use it while loading Thule racks, etc. Also, according to the boards, both have had feedback that in some cases they rattle into the muffler, and in other cases they do not. So, no difference there. The part # on the Hidden Hitch is 70609 - that is the # for an '02, but Hidden Hitch says it should work on '03. I'm not doing the wiring until they have had time to identify Part # - some issues there regarding plug-in-play style versus converter, etc. [Even Hoppy Trailer Wiring has not done it yet for the '03.] I'll let you know how install goes - supposed to be less than an hour. And I hope the damn' thing does not bang into the muffler after all this!!!! ;>
P.S. Simple round chrome finisher search is a nightmare. Nothing easy on the Net at all. Guess I need to just call Pilot Exhaust Tips and ask for a round and rolled chrome finisher for 60 mm pipe. Phil 47, can you tell me the length of your finisher so that I can give them the exact dimensions? THX!
I need a cargo liner that is more of the, stop dog hair from wrecking the carpet variety rather than one that is fully spill proof and prevents use of the tie downs. In your research have you run across any of this type?
99998-259909 Extension tip
Rolled edge 88 mm
Canadian part only for Pathfinder
$75.51 Canadian
Can ship - We require a Credit Card along with how you would like it
shipped.
Also the shipping address.
If you have anymore questions please don't hesitate to call.
Clarence Airy
Parts Manager
(403) 284-4611
parts@stadiumnissan.com
Let me know.
P.S. Can't wait for my Newsweek International "Interview with a Disappointed Gen-X" to come out . . . looks like that 4th Gen Runner cladding is killing everyone! [And by the way, those new commercials are WEAK compared to the ones that came out for the H2 debut.]
P.S. For any dog owners, I came up with a plastic coated steel wire, spring lock and seat anchor/tether deal, completely secure, that I put together from Home Depot and that is working like a charm. When Diego is in back, I can cruise around with the window popped and no worry about him jumping out when I stop and especially when I open the hatch at the dog runs/hiking grounds we go to and he is rearing to go. Easy to make, the problem was the trial and error of coming up with exactly the right length such that he had window access without getting his paws up on the sill or over the edge of the bumper when hatch is up. [There's a "funny" story about how I got my first scratch on my new '03: his first time in back with the new liner and my temporary leather leash idea resulted in him (after arriving home and being thirsty and familiar with whereabouts) jumping through the popped open hatch window, breaking the leash mid-air with all his weight, hitting his front paws above the license plate garnish as he sprang off . . . there he was, broken leash from collar, tail wagging, nice toenail scratch on paint . . . was at Home Depot the next day!]
thanks!
P.S. They shipped it quick, just 2-3 days I think.
Looks like I wont have to worry about all the rock salt, slush and dirt wrecking the interior of my new LE! For under $200 total I think its more than worth it!
You can actually see the welded transition quite clearly on the photo called "tiplow" here:
http://photos.yahoo.com/phil99_5
Keep clicking on the photo until you get the largest zoom.
I don't have one installed, but I once went driving on some very dusty roads with a buddy who has one on his SE. My truck's rear was coated, while his was reasonably clean.
FYI, on that Canadian chrome exhaust part - from your Canadian dealer, they say it fit on the 60mm pipe on the '03 they tried. [see email below] However, I'm still looking aftermarket as I'm not sure about simply tightening the screws to compensate for the 25 mm difference between the 85mm tip and the 60 mm pipe. In Phil47's case with his '01, it was only 15 mm difference - which seems reasonable.
E-mail:
Michael
Ext tip will work. It is held onto the tailpipe by three large set screws.
The diameter of the pipe is 60mm. Inside diameter of extention is 85mm/
We have fitted to new Pathfinder.
Clarence
HOWEVER, in my case the rolled chrome edge was flush to the OD of the stock tip (looked very OE). In the case of the 60 mm tip, you would have a 5mm gap between the chrome tip and the stock tip. It wouldn't look ugly, just not quite as OE. In fact, You could probably extend the chrome tip slightly (an inch?) which would hide the end of the stock tip pretty well. Just a thought.
I have both the chrome exhaust finisher as well as a Hidden Hitch on my 2001 Canadian Pathfinder. I installed both myself and have had no problems with exhaust system rubbing the hitch. I ordered mine from a dealer here in British Columbia, and got the link from Phil47.
Thanks again Phil!
I got my first scratch this weekend just where the deflector would protect.
But I'm wondering if the plastic deflector produces any side effects like wind noise, weird wind flow patterns, etc. On my 4Runner it would make the hood vibrate near the wippers, it was annoying.
I'm hesitating between the plastic deflector and the nose mask. (Note: I do not like the 3M clear plastic you can also install on the hood and do not consider it).
Thanks
Hopefully the nose mask for the PF is an easy one to put on and remove, as I owned one once and it was always a pain to remove when washing the car. Do you have any info on it??
I had a nose mask on my Mazda 626. Usually I would only install the hood section and not the whole thing. It looked nice on my white car. It was not a pain to remove as far as I remember.
Back to the Pathfinder, the mask is much more expensive that the deflector and I think that the deflector looks nicer. (Masks have an late 80's -early 90's look I think.
I'll go an have a look at the dealer pretty soon to compare them in person.
First things first: my new Husky Liners are terrific. Fit like a glove; have had no problem feeling heat in rear area when I warm up engine/heaters; and drink tray in rear does not interfere (lucky I guess - I don't think I will have to cut out the middle at all). These were the best investment ever - it was wonderful this 3-day weekend to haul in and out of a brand new vehicle in my boots in the mud and not even think twice about the consequences. Hosed everything off tonight. Please see earlier posts regarding this product. My only slight issue was that they were a little slick at first (but I guess I was just used to carpet) - something that there is no way to design around if you want a waterproof mat. The best money ever spent.
Bra vs. Bug Deflector: Had a bra for a CRX - pain in the rear; have to to take it off to wash and dry; expensive; very 80's look agreed.
On the deflectors, as I said a while back, I am not into the look of too much of this bug/wind stuff unless truly functional and the appearance is subtle. As posted earlier, got the Weathertech insert side window deflectors for the front side windows only - looks inconspicuous and useful there. But the bug thing is not really a problem where I live. Nevertheless, knowing that SUVs often get the chips on the front hood that WT just received, I had investigated and researched the options, with the vibration concerns noted. Found something that I thought was worth a shot and just installed: the Lund Avenger, Part # 72049, fits on the 2003. This is not a bug deflector; rather, it is a "hood/fender shield" - as such, there is no upward flare or roll to it - thus, it is very low profile. From what I was told, one of the lowest on the market. (i.e., there is no lip or wing that curves back up like most bug deflectors). The other true bug deflectors are a little too big for me, and I was only concerned about protecting the hood and not worried about any need to send bugs over the windshield. Not sure how different this is than the Nissan product; as from Internet photos the Nissan deflector does not seem to roll upward either.
Amyway, check out: lundindustries.com. Originally I was worried that these guys were the big parent company that made all that bad aftermarket plastic out there that I noted in earlier posts . . . but this Avenger is actually quite good. I gave the Weatherflectors an A+ and in comparison, I give this an A- . . . to fully compare, I give the quality of the plastic fit and finish in the Nissan side window deflectors a D!
I'll let you know if I hear any vibration tomorrow when I accelerate up to 70+ MPH tomorrow to check it out for you all. Appearance is great, especially since my LE is black. After I ordered it, I found out that the same www.accessconnect.com had them for a lower price than I had paid :< (they aren't listed on their web site; call the 1-800 # and give the part # and they can get.)
If anyone interested, I will tell you about install. Not as easy as insert side deflectors of course; but about what I imagined . . . trying to line everything up. You can do it entirely with the 3M tape, but I opted for the 3M tape plus four small 1/8" drill holes and screws (on the underside of hood) for ease of installation (long story). I imagine I would have had to go through the same process with any other shield, but I just wish I could say it was simple to install. Took a little patience if you are the type of person who wants it 100% aligned, etc. More later if interested.
I realize that Nissan parts would have these but I was quoted something like 1600 dollars for four. Anybody have any ideas ?
I live in a hilly part of British Columbia where snow and ice are prevalent for part of the year. I tried to find rims to fit dedicated snow tires, but the listed ones from tire shops were off a Toyota Tundra, which had about an extra inch of offset. The XE and Chilkoot models do not have fender flares, and fitting OEM one's is expensive, and requires body work, according to the dealer. I was successful in finding 4 identical rims from a tire shop, but took about 6 months to locate.
I installed the Nissan hood bra and front end mask, due to sand and gravel on the highways from the above noted winter conditions. It is very simple to remove the hood part, but a more difficult job to remove the lower portion. My vehicle is about 18 months old and have not noticed any marks on the bumper area, but have an abrasion of the clear coat from the hood bra. I think I would have had a lot more damage without it
If you can get steel rims for your 03 Chilkoot from Nissan, I would get them. Nissan told me that the steel rim, like used on the spare was over $250 each. Tire shops, including Canadian Tire would sell me a steel rim for about $80 each (take off rims), but they were off a Toyota Tundra - same bolt pattern, but additional offset, which resulted in gravel, mud, etc coating my outside mirrors, the windows and the side of the vehicle. I would have had to install fender flares which are not standard equipment on my XE model, nor the Chilkoot, to my knowledge.
Has anyone installed the rear seatback liners without drilling? I _really_ dont want to take a drill to my new Pathfinder.
P.S. Before I sell all my old CRX with its aftermarket speakers, amps, etc. left over from my old 20-something days when I had time to fool with such things, I thought I might want to keep one of my more expensive amplifiers in case I ever wanted to add a subwoofer to the Pathfinder. The stock Bose is nice all around, but could use more balance in the bass department. Does anyone know if the stock head unit has "pre-amps" (e.g., RCA like jacks) built in for the addition of an amplifier? If not, I'll sell the expensive amp as well, as I do not want to replace or fool around with the head unit / inline CD changer. I notice that there is one external amplifier in the driver's side rear cargo area wall - anyone check that out to see how wired and/or whether a second amplifier can be added using the "leads" to the factory amplifier? Just a long shot here. THX
Has anyone installed Decor Package for 02PF(Decoration Package?)? Any pros and cons. i'd appreciate any info.
Thanks in advance
Thanks...Scott
On X-mas surprises, the Husky Floorliners I reviewed in previous posts (with part #s, etc. for '03 LE) are a great bet. They are still incredible as proved by the past week's experience with snow, sand and salt. The mats are a mess of crud, but not one speck on the interior carpeting, etc.! Again, the best price I saw was $52 a set at www.accessconnect.com. BTW, this site seems to have good prices on just about everything.
On Dynamic Control Package, this is a benefit unique to the '03s; and since they are selling at or below invoice, your cost is only $650, not that much at all. World_traveler gave a review of it recently on one of the other boards. My experience was similar in the middle of this past snowstorm in DC when I had to drive myself to the emergency room after slicing a finger. [ouch!] The residential winding streets where I live were dead and I decided to try pushin' it a little around a wide open turn just to see how far I could max this new vehicle on a turn in the snow when it started to slip and the dynamic control kicked in: SLIP light lit, buzzer sound activated, and all was well. Didn't seem obtrusive. I really need to get out to an open area where I can really get some sliding in and give it a test, with the VDC switch both on and off. But, I think it is a plus so far given the cost.
On Grill-Tech grill insert that I discussed several posts before, I think it will definitely do the job of protecting the lower radiator down there but agree with Phil47 that it seems pretty expensive. It was definitely easy to install (5 minutes) with no drilling of course. I like the fact that it's black, muted, and no-frills, as I didn't want something like the fancy chrome grill inserts that would seem like I was making the truck into a street-rod. I ordered it from www.grille-tech.com. Cost $81 delivered; took several weeks to arrive though. Just checked their web site and it's been updated: looks like they have two styles now from when I ordered. The one I got would be the "black" color with "race" style holes, sku# 10194, and now only costs $68, a fairer price. It definitely fits on an '03, no problem.
Here are some great tips with install: make sure you have a set of metric sockets/wrenches and A RUBBER MALLET, you will definitely need that! Also, this project gave me a good excuse to buy that Craftsman torque wrench I always wanted. First thing to do is remove the "black box" on the driver's side near the tie-down. You WON'T miss it as you can't install the hitch with a torque wrench with the box in place. This is not in the instructions though, but all you have to do is remove the three 12 mm bolts that hold the bracket for the box in place; you will also need to slide one rubber hose off a plastic nipple attached to the frame. [It's easy, you'll know which one!] Don't worry about all the other hoses, etc.; just remove the 3 bolts and 1 hose and let the box "hang." Now, it's easy to remove the 3 bolts on each tie down on both sides [there is one wiring harness on the driver's side tie down that pops off.] Ready to install hitch now! Since I was alone, I found that one of those blue plastic recycling newspaper/bottle bins plus a 2x4 made the perfect height to rest the hitch on for the install. Drape a towel over the rear bumper cover in case hitch swivels as you're moving into place. This is where you'll need that rubber mallet! From this resting position, push the hitch so that both the left and right sides are even against the frame and then use the rubber mallet to tap on each side, alternating, and you will see the hitch slowly slide up into place. Takes a while, VERY tight fit, but you will get it there. Once lined up over the 4 holes, it will almost hang there on its own even without the support. Install the 2 top bolts loosely on each side. Remove your support. Now, rubber mallet time again: the only way to get the spacers in (for the lower 2 holes) is to hold the spacer in place, and carefully tap the spacer with a screwdriver and mallet; don't tap too far or you'll pass up the hole and make more work for yourself. Once spacers are aligned, install bottom two bolts on each side. Use torque wrench in star pattern to bring torque up to 64 ft lbs on each bolt per instructions. Tie driver's side wire harness to hitch frame special hole. Reinstall black box. And you're done!
Very pleased with how this all turned out. Looks great; step is nicely aligned with rear bumper. Now, to the good stuff: there is absolutely NO problem with the hitch bumping into the muffler (as some really early posts indicated could happen with Draw-Tite and maybe with the Hiden Hitch as well) - there is about 1.5" clearance between the hitch and the muffler. Whew! No problem there. Also, want to put to rest any notion that it doesn't use ALL the holes when mounting. This hitch uses ALL 4 existing holes in the vehicle's frame. Very solid. On install time, I am your average Craftsman tool-type homeowner and was able to install by myself from start to finish in 3 hours. If I did it again, I know I could do it in half that time. I hope this helps. From the post of BaddestBob1, it appears I have my solution to making a rubber pad for the metal step (like the Nissan product has): per BaddestBob, JCWhitney describes a product which I think is the same as the "round tube hitch cover," part # 7800, that I saw on the hiddenhitch.com website. It looks like it acts as a cover, a hitch plug, and a step pad all in one. I will call and see if I can order for less at www.accessconnect.com. Will let you all know. Also, have not done wiring yet; still waiting for Hoppy to come out with trailer wiring specs for an '03 (but probably the same as '02s anyway).
As for the new models coming with tire monitors, you can purchase these from tire companies. A module is strapped onto the rim under the tire, and a display is placed in the cab. They are quite affordable. I'm seriously considering getting them installed when my original tires finally wear out.
Promised feedback on the receiver cover baddestbob and I mentioned above. It's sold at JCWhitney for around $13 I think and it is in fact the Hidden Hitch Part # 7800 ROUND TUBE HITCH COVER (Hidden Hitch web site has a photo). I ordered it from the guys again at www.accessconnect.com in the $8 range [Jeez . . . from now on, every time I want to order something I find on the Net I will call this guy Dave at accessconnect and see if they can get it as well at a lower price . . . good referral]. Very different from the Nissan factory rubber step style. It does fit the Hidden Hitch perfectly I will say, but honestly, I am not too thrilled with the appearance. I don't mind the full wrap around clam shell style of top to bottom coverage of the receiver, but I wish it were a little smaller scale and didn't flare out so much on the sides where there actually isn't any portion of the metal step. Because it's so inexpensive, I am not worried about theft, but the screws idea may be good to help hold it in place better (Baddest: did you do this from the top down into the 2 large holes of the step?). I think I kind of like the appearance of the "raw" metal hitch better than the plastic, so I have to give the product IMHO a 7 out of 10. . . . But, that is still a high score, as it is perfectly matched and fitted, very integrated, and certainly will be functional both as a plastic surface on the step and a protector against the salt, water, etc. - (previous hitches have always began to rust first on the surface where the bar inserts). Also, certainly will be good to have as shin/clothing protection once this vehicle becomes my wife's main car in a few years and she has to sometimes use for more mundane things then towing a ski boat, e.g., loading groceries . . .
So, will leave it in place and let it grow on me, but in the end I think once I come across some good anti-slip "trak top" or "stomp pad" material (that they use on top of snowboards for back foot when riding off chairlift), I will just stick that on to the metal step and go with the bare look.
Hope this helps - I know a lot of folks have the Hidden Hitch tow hitch.
I have a 2003 SE and I'm debating which hitch to install. Why did you choose the hidden hitch versus the draw tite?
P.S. Hidden Hitch receiver cover has grown on me and I like the looks enough and am keeping it on. Couple friends even noted it and thought, "hey, that's great feature covering it up like that." So, it stays. I have not attempted to modify it by screwing it on though -- it stays in place fine so far and I will take my chances with the thieves (it's cheap anyway). [But, if you are concerned, Baddest apparently had some good ideas.]