Mazda Protegé

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Comments

  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    Blueguy...Most of what you said is spot on, but I disagree with shorting the car. Compared to your Beemer 330, most cars will pale. That's a true Teutonic Cruizer. It was made for that very thing....high speed - long distance touring.

    I have a 2000 ES Protege with the 1.8l motor. The only time I think it's straining is when at higher altitudes (above 6000 ft elevation). I like the ride stiff and the seats are great like you said. I normally drive 80 mph or so on long trips, but I routinely drive 1.5 hours to visit my mom, and spurts up to 100 or even 110 are not unheard of with me. Yes the car is working to go that fast, but with an electronically limited 116 mph limit (I proved this on two occasions) you are at the very top of the Pro's capabilities. Between 45-60 and above 85 mph the car is working, but for some reason my car jumps strong between 60 and 85 mph. This with a 4 speed slushbox (automatic tranny).

    I don't expect it to be gangbusters on top, after all it's a naturally aspirated 4-banger that's tuned for more low end torque than top end rush. My '92 Protege LX would outrun my 2000 at higher speeds, having been clocked once at 126 mph by a friendly Police Officer. Good thing he was a friend of mine! That '92 was tuned for top-end HP (like some of the Civic's) and if you knew how, you could get honest-to-God 8.4 second 0-60's out of it. My 2000 is slower at approx 9.6 sec 0-60, but I'd bet the farm that it's 0-30 and 25-50 times are faster as the car has 15 lbs more torque across most of the RPM range.

    Great road car? Depends on what you value. I spend 99 % of my time below 80 mph, so the fact that it is slow above that doesn't bug me a bit. At a constant 80 mph, I get 28-30 mpg, 70mph give me 30-31 and 60 mph gives me 32 mpg. Drive it hard and 24-25 mpg is a certainty.

    Keep the comments coming, we all have our opinions about the car. The VAST majority are positive, but none of us think the car is perfect. I'd put it up against ANY other car in it's class from 1999-2003 (special limited production models excluded) and all attributes considered, it usually comes out on top.

    If I could afford a BMW 330i coupe or sedan, would I buy one? Probably, heck...for that kind of money (guessing about 35-40k) I'd look at a used 540 with the 6-speed manual and REALLY enjoy cross-country driving. Right?

    Regards and respect,

    Pete
  • hobbs03hobbs03 Member Posts: 17
    I'm coming up on this milestone...should I take it to a Mazda dealer for this service. What should I expect them to do and how much should it cost.

    Also, when it's time for my brakes to be done, can I get away with just replacing the brake pads or do I have to turn the rotors etc?
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    Thanks for the comments. It seems Mazda's geared the 2.0's a little differently. Wish they gave us a taller 5th.

    If I could afford a BMW 330i coupe or sedan, would I buy one? Probably, heck...for that kind of money (guessing about 35-40k) I'd look at a used 540 with the 6-speed manual and REALLY enjoy cross-country driving. Right?

    Kinda funny as late last night I was out with my BMW and I noted at 85 in 6th gear I was turning less than 3k. My mileage indicator was showing 31 mpg.

    BTW, I'll stick with my 330i Performance Package over a 540. 0-60 romps in the mid 5s and still a small enough car that it feels nimble.
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Member Posts: 166
    I did the Cannonball Run between Miami and Orlando for a few years and have no complaints. My 1.6 manual held its own at the 80+ MPH average speeds. On one trip, I had a rented 2003 2.0 auto, it felt like an inferior car to the less powerful 1.6, not much passing power on the downshift and required a little more effort to keep up with the traffic.

    In July, the 1.6 made the 1500 mile return trip to Toronto fully loaded with a bike mounted on the trunk. Even with the extra weight, the great little car was able to easily climb the mountains through Tennessee and Kentucky and tackle the brutal pavement on I75 in Michigan at an average speed of 75 miles an hour. The only complaint I have is that the light weight of the car lets it get bumped around by the trucks and rough pavement.

    Its true that the seats are a little stiff on the long ride, but you shouldn't sit for that long anyway.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    You don't have to. I didn't so I don't know how much it would have cost. I think the only additional maintenance is changing the plugs, which isn't too bad if you have the right tools (I had to get a longer spark plug socket...those plugs are in deep). The big one is at 60k miles (at least in my state...some states make mfrs push back changing timing belts to 105k). A friend of mine with a 1.8L '99 Pro ES just got to 60k miles and he got quotes from $550-$750 for that service (it's good having 4 relatively nearby dealerships). Considering he hasn't had to do anything but regular maintenance on it so far, it's not bad. I'll be facing this situation in another 10k miles myself.

    For brakes, I'd go ahead and refinish the rotors, even if the surfaces aren't all that rough. Modern rotors seem to be made of softer stuff than they used to (like on my '89 323), so I plan on changing them at the next brake service.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    gee....

    the 99 1.8L is the same beast. Faster you go, the smoother is revs.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    version of the Pro I agree. That was a gem of an engine.

    I loved that car.
    http://edmunds.com/used/1995/mazda/protege/2783/prices.html?tid=e- dmunds.u.mipmake.pricetable.num2.1.mazda*
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    the 98 protege was a miata derived 1.8L.
    the 99-00 had a 626 derived 1.8L.

    It had wee bit better torque than the Miata version, IIRC and still very smooth. I was doing @95 once with the RPM somewhere over 4000. And it felt smooth and tight with no signs of any buzzing or vibrations. sweet.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    I loved cruising in that car. I would have one today if the ES's weren't so durn rare.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    My 01ES is at 25K and in mint condition tho' commuting for 4 hours to travel 25 miles in the snowstorm we just had in the Charlotte area must have taken several years off the engine!!. I have the following q's:
    1. Is it recommended to change spark plug wires along with the plugs at 30k?
    2. For those who have had the Dunlop 5000's could it be that they ride smoother in wet conditons? Seems so. I also find (or perhaps imagine) that (on the same route) some days the ride is smoother than others. Temp differences?
    Overall I'm pleased with the car except for the ride.
  • jjj321jjj321 Member Posts: 11
    Bought a new emerald mica ProtegeES automatic with moon roof and 6 CD changer. Paid US$14150 out the door including dest., taxes (6%) and new tag. List was US$18355 including dest. fee but before any other charges. Going to pick it up Monday.
    Offered US$13000 OTD for a silver automatic Pro5 no options, at another dealer and they did not even counter offer.
    Maybe could have gotten a better deal, but the experience was painless and enjoyable (had been in contact with dealer for over a month).
    Not many Pros left in South Florida and incentives expire next Monday 03/01/2004.
  • fayfay Member Posts: 7
    on my 94 protege DX:

    Ignition breaking down as engine heats up. suggest the following parts in this order:
    1. coil
    2. distributor assembly
    3. computer
    The onboard computer will not communicate with the diagnostic scanners.

    Is it still repairable?
    Thank you.
  • car3car3 Member Posts: 27
    I sat in the backseat of a 93 Protege the other day. I was shocked I didn't feel crapmed or anything. More than enough room for your feet and legs.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Haven't seen you here in a long time. How's it down your way? Your Mazda dealer in H.P. is loaded with new models. :D

    fowler3
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Been a week or so since my last post.

    Following about two months of wet, cold, yucky weather, we finally got a nice day here in Richmond Sunday. I spent almost seven hours outside with the 2000 ES and the 2002 P5, vacuuming, scrubbing, window-cleaning, tire-shining, etc. -- and now have two very nice-looking cars again.

    The 2000 has 70,600 miles on it and it'll be spending Friday at Whitten Mazda getting its (belated) 60,000-mile service done. I'm having new plug wires installed too -- for all of you newbies, this REALLY makes a difference and I recommend changing them every 30,000 miles. Not a bad performance improvement for $50-$75. I'm getting this done now so there will be no worries on my 5-hour trip to Charlotte, NC the weekend of the 13th.

    The 2002 just crossed 30K and needs its 30K-mile service, but due to bills and "shellout falter" we'll probably wait until April or May to have it done. We'll only be about 1,000 miles late with this one.

    Both cars are running great and I have no plans to trade the 2000 ES at this time. Even though I've decided my next car will be a 3 wagon (but that $24,000 RX-8 sure is tempting!), the 2000 ES is covered by extended warranty until 100,000 miles and is running like the proverbial top, so why get rid of it now? I love the car as much as day one, and I will have owned it four years on May 24. Great car!

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Please e-mail me or contact me via one of our other methods. I have a question for you!

    Meade
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    And I was soooo happy to get back into my Protege. Nothing out there comes close to giving me everything I need (like letting me actually fit inside them...is it me or are the cars out there getting shorter?) and want for a price I'm willing to shell out. Too bad for the economy overall, I guess, but better for my wallet. :)
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Fowler I've been in here reading the posts once in a while. I have a few more miles than your PRO as I can tell (topped 25K yesterday). And my local dealer is really here in SC, I went to HP because I couldn't get the locals to treat me fairly. We got 16 inches here last weekend and a 30 mt commute turned into 4 hours.

    Can someone tell me how much the timing belt change costs? I heard someone post that the 60K service can run from 500-750. I've never had a car that cost that much for a service interval.
  • meinradmeinrad Member Posts: 820
    Yeah, I know what you mean. I think I'm a bit shorter in the torso than you so I don't have as big a problem, but very often I feel crammed in.

    That's why I like the wagon/hatch cars so much. I never fit in the rear of a sedan with those sloping roof lines.

    Need a car with some headroom, get in my Element! LoL.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Expect it to cost around $250. They should replace the valve cover gasket when they do it.

    But since you're there, you may as well have them replace the accessory belts (since they have to remove them anyway). This probably adds another $30-50.

    Asking them to replace plugs, plug wires, oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant, water pump and checking/tightening nuts & bolts and lubricating hinges etc. is all up to you (the water pump is accessible during the timing belt change too). The water pump will likely last until your second timing belt change. The other stuff you can do yourself, if you have a means of properly disposing of the fluids and filters (like your local service garage or parts store...some will take them for free, some will require you to pay some fee).
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    But I guess I like sitting closer to the road, especially on a curvy road.

    I can definitely see the appeal though. Better road visibility and more headroom.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Gas prices headed UP, UP, UP, the East Coast "could see" prices over $3.00 a gallon by May!

    Are the oil companies taking advantage of people afraid to fly because of continuing reports of terrorist hijackings? Greed and planned non-resupplying has to be part of it. Deliberatly letting the reserves get too low is fraud. This sounds like the oil companies are pulling an Enron on consumers.

    fowler3
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I voted!

    Meade
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    Quick question...my daughter has a 2002 Pro LX, with 37,000 miles. Isn't the factory warranty up to 50,000 miles? If so, why replace the plug wires at 30,000? Just a question..thanks. Does the 30,000 service require a plug wire change or inspection (and would an inspection reveal the need to replace?)? Her car (and the owner's manual for it) is 2,000 miles away from me, so I can't easily check. I will speak to her tonight.

    Her old one, a 95 Pro 1.6, did start the "rough running, barely keep idling, limp to dealer" thing at about this mileage, (if memory serves me, that was in about 2001) After a costly diagnosis (darn dealers!), and a set of plug wires, it was fixed. However, it was out of warranty at that time due to time, not mileage...

    Thanks,

    "Dad"
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Anyway, like I said before, Proteges have a habit of eating plug wires. I don't know if it's because the factory ones are cheap, or what, but in the course of three Proteges, I've become accustomed to changing them after about 30,000 miles -- just for good measure. Plug wires are a WEAR item and aren't something that would be covered by a warranty anyway, plus they're not expensive at all. As I said over on the Problems & Solutions discussion, the premium set of Belden wires is just a touch over $40 at NAPA -- not too much more than some people pay for an oil change and lube job these days. And it really is a do-it-yourself job that's actually easier than replacing an air filter since there aren't any covers to remove.

    No, it's not in the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, but it's something they do check during major services. You know, one of those "I/R" items. Think about all those high voltages (thousands of volts) and the fact that wires do break down over time due to heat and weather (it DOES get wet in there), and it's a pretty darned good, cheap, do-it-yourself performance and longevity boost for your Protege. Or any car for that matter.

    The Protege's warranty is 4 years/50,000 miles, bumper to bumper. You can inspect the wires yourself -- just pull them off the plugs one by one and take a look at the insulation on them. If it looks fresh and new, great (but I'd still replace them). If instead it looks cracked, dried out or burned, they're on their way to plug wire heaven.

    Do yourself a favor and avoid the high cost of another diagnostic test and just replace the wires.

    Meade
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I can not even find an application listed for the 2003 LX 2.0 for plug wires!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    You might want to call your dealership and get a part number and then cross-reference it with an auto parts store.

    My Advance Auto Parts doesn't list windshield wiper replacements for my wife's 2002 Protege5, but I'm almost certain her car has wipers.

    :D

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    ... to stir this discussion into activity again, huh Pat? Like old times!

    Meade
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Well Meade, so you think there are wires on those plugs in my 03? ;) I only have a little over 5,000 miles on the Protege so it was only curiousity which sent me looking for the cost and brand offerings for replacement wires.

    I remember when a mechanic told me that the wife's Corolla required new wires and it would be $200 as the wires were expensive and it was a difficult to replace application. $70 and 10 minutes to replace the wires myself. And it was the easiest set I've ever replaced. Difficult to replace...Hah!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Thinking of adding one on my 03 LX. I see that there is one listed at Rosenthal. Does anyone know if there is required relocation of any cruise or AC components when a strut bar is installed?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I drive many miles a year and own 3 vehicles so I change vehicles fairly often. Happy to state that the 03 Protege is the only vehicle to be completely defect free during the first 5,000 miles of ownership of the 7 new vehicles I've purchased in the last 5 years. Oddly enough, a 2002 Civic Si holds the title of most initial defects of the new vehicles I've owned.
    Kudos to the Protege.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    My 2000 ES is at the shop today for the items in its 60,000-mile service that I don't do myself.

    I will have owned the car four years May 24.

    My stats:

    70,800 miles.

    ZERO problems.

    Smilin' & Zoomin',

    Meade
  • meinradmeinrad Member Posts: 820
    I like to say I've had zero problems too, but that dreaded clutch chatter was back again today. I hate to consider it a problem since it's maybe 15 starts a year, but it still exists.

    But I don't think it's really fair to say "zero problems", even though I usually do.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    ... was labeled as a "Protege idiosyncracy" by both my dealer's service writer and a Mazda certified mechanic who's also a personal friend on both my 1992 LX and my 2000 ES. The '92 went 83,000 miles before trade-in, and my '00 has gone 70,800 miles so far -- and neither car had/has clutch problems. The "chatter," while noticeable on cold starts on wet mornings, has never, ever been anything more than a minor quirk, and always has disappeared after two or three steps on the accelerator.

    I don't call a problem a problem until it's a problem!

    Meade

    P.S. That mechanic and I saw each other when I was dropping off my car this morning. We got to talking about the 3, and he said he was so upset to see the Protege line go that he bought himself an '03! He showed it to me, and of course it's got all the options (except auto tranny, heh heh). Now, if a Mazda mechanic who's been at my dealership at least 10 years believes in the car enough to buy one for himself ...
  • jjj321jjj321 Member Posts: 11
    Just got a 2003 Protege ES last week, when I test drove it it veered to the right, salesman told me no problem it would be aligned before I actually bought it. When I went to pick it up, the problem had not been corrected so it went in to service, after that it seemed fine. As it turns out it still was misaligned just not as bad as before. Going to take it in Monday.
    A/C is only adequate, worried about how it will do during the summer down here in Florida, going to check it out as well, maybe it needs re charging. I have had many Mazdas before; MX3, 626, and never had this problem.
    Also the inside plastic panel that covers the left front pillar seems to be loose.
    I hope this issues will be addressed by the dealer or Mazda, would hate to think I bought a Lemon.
    Aside from this issues I am very happy with my new car.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Make certain you have your recirculate switch on when using the A/C -- otherwise it never will get really cold. Also, the Protege's A/C doesn't do a great job at idle -- get the car going and you should notice a big difference.

    I have an '00 ES and I had the chance to use the A/C for the first time this year yesterday when it got up to 80 here in Richmond. I'm continually amazed at how much frigid air comes out of my vents. My earlier Proteges ('92s) couldn't hold a candle to this one's A/C. I once stuck the probe to my digital thermometer in my center dash vent and got an A/C temp in the 40s. I'm impressed.

    Meade
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    "Does anyone know if there is required relocation of any cruise or AC components when a strut bar is installed?"

    Yes, the cruise control needs to be moved. The strut tower bar kit should come with a new bracket that moves the cruise control.
  • jjj321jjj321 Member Posts: 11
    "Make certain you have your recirculate switch on when using the A/C -- otherwise it never will get really cold. Also, the Protege's A/C doesn't do a great job at idle -- get the car going and you should notice a big difference."

    Thanks Meade,
    I tried the A/C as you have stated and the car does cool down, but it never really gets cold. After reading your post I am thinking that it may need a recharge of gas, after all this car was just sitting in the lot for maybe a year.

    Jacques
  • meinradmeinrad Member Posts: 820
    Is is possible to fix a very light scratch without painting the whole door? Well doors.

    I put a very light but noticeable scratch from my drivers door handle just onto the rear door. While the car is dirty I never see it, but as soon as I wash it, the darn thing jumps out at me like Pat on a Meadeball post.

    I would care so much if it was on the passenger side since I'd never see it.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    If it is in the clearcoat it may be wet sanded and polished. If it is into the paint then you are out of luck.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    go to Mazdausa.com, register for "My Mazda", supply identification of your vehicle. Where it says "download manual", right click and save the manual to your hard drive (where it will be easy to access). Hope some readers will find this useful.
  • oskwioskwi Member Posts: 88
    remember me? I was once a frequent poster but a cross country move back east, two hospitalized parents, crazy work schedule and graduate school put edmunds on the back burner!

    anyway, my mother's 2003 ES that was purchased in July 2003 has almost 17,000 miles on it! It has been the only car ever in her history to be "tweek free" in its initial miles. It still runs beautifully and is admired by friends and foes alike! :)

    I of course broke down and decided to do the car payment thing again. I sold my 1996 Mitsu Galant with 183,000 miles on it and bought a 2001 Protege ES. I originally went for a new one, but decided with one more year of graduate school, a lower payment would be best suited for me. I searched high and low in Buffalo and on accident walked onto a lot one night that had a 2001 green Pro with 19,000 miles on it fully loaded...sunroof, alloys, fog lamps, spoiler, and even side air bags - a must for me! It was just traded in a couple of HOURS before I got there. One test drive and, in the words of the much esteemed Emeril, BAM, I was out the door. Now there are two Mazdas in the garage. Both trouble-free and both ready to zoom zoom at the drop of a hat! I don't miss the Mitsu one bit! It still amuses me to lurk on the domestic car sites and read the consumer gripes and think to myself, "Been there, done that, never again!" I had a great Galant (I'm not so sure about the newer ones) and I anticipate a great experience with the 2001 Pro from what I have read here.

    Hey Meade...poignant tale of you and the deer. Deer are spotted daily down the road from me and, I too, almost clipped one on the way to work! Also, good advice regarding the plug wires. I will definitely consider that soon. My 2001 is at 27,000 now.

    Hey Dinu...remember when you said you would give the name of that tire place near you in Toronto? Well, almost seven months later, I could use that info. I will definitely be replacing the tires over the summer.

    Good to catch up with my "reading".

    Garth
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    I dealt with these guys:

    Tire Depot@Yonge/Steeles 905-882-8473

    There are other ones, but I don't have the tel#/website (for all)- maybe if you do a search it'll come up

    www.wheelandtirezone.com

    Tiremag (Keele & Hwy 7)

    Extreme Tire up in Richmond Hill

    Tireworks in Mississauga

    Wheels Direct near Scarborough Town Center Mall

    Pickering Tire n Mag

    Wheels Direct - 416-754-0997 (around Sheppard & McCowan)

    Nantucket Tires - 416-288-9399 (around Kennedy & Ellesmere)

    "Public Tire" on Lawrence JUST WEST of Dufferin.

    OK Ready Tire On Weston Road just north of Steeles.

    Hope this helps!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Well, you just happened to catch me on a little "Edmunds rebound" myself. I've been AWOL for awhile but have resurfaced here in the past few days. Good to hear from you!

    Meade
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    AWOL lately, have they become frozen in? I'm on here every day checkin' da posts.

    Jim
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Member Posts: 6,249
    Is this a Mazda Pro thing: the left side of my instrument cluster seems sorta dim even at full blast. I know Mazda cheaped out in a few places (door lock buttons, no trunk release with the fob, lack of true power window locking, etc) so I've never been sure if my dim interior lights are a result of Mazda engineering or a real mechanical/electrical flaw with the car.

    Other than that 7300 miles (since december 1) and no real problems. Gotta get an oil change soon though...
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Member Posts: 166
    The left side of my instrument cluster (the fuel and temperature gauges) is dim when the car is very cold (minus 20 celsius.) To fix it, I just tap the black plastic below it and the light comes back on.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I was just sharing (with a co-worker who owns a new Tribute) my amazement that my 2000 ES with 70,900 miles on it has never had one bulb burn out anywhere -- not a dome light, headlight, gauge light, nothing.

    I will have owned the car four years May 24.

    Meade
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Member Posts: 166
    Four years for me on May 3rd. I think the car just doesn't like bitter cold, can you blame it, I'm a little "dim" on those days too. I've had one bulb sort of burn out, it was the driver's rear stop lamp, it has two filaments, one for the brake and other for the rear lights. The rear light burned out (I see a lot of Proteges in Toronto with this condition.) Its hard to notice because there are other smaller rear light bulbs that are near to it. Total cost: $10 for two bulbs and about 10 minits of work, easy. If your dealer offers to do it, tell them to beat it and do it yourself.
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