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Comments
I have a 2000 ES Protege with the 1.8l motor. The only time I think it's straining is when at higher altitudes (above 6000 ft elevation). I like the ride stiff and the seats are great like you said. I normally drive 80 mph or so on long trips, but I routinely drive 1.5 hours to visit my mom, and spurts up to 100 or even 110 are not unheard of with me. Yes the car is working to go that fast, but with an electronically limited 116 mph limit (I proved this on two occasions) you are at the very top of the Pro's capabilities. Between 45-60 and above 85 mph the car is working, but for some reason my car jumps strong between 60 and 85 mph. This with a 4 speed slushbox (automatic tranny).
I don't expect it to be gangbusters on top, after all it's a naturally aspirated 4-banger that's tuned for more low end torque than top end rush. My '92 Protege LX would outrun my 2000 at higher speeds, having been clocked once at 126 mph by a friendly Police Officer. Good thing he was a friend of mine! That '92 was tuned for top-end HP (like some of the Civic's) and if you knew how, you could get honest-to-God 8.4 second 0-60's out of it. My 2000 is slower at approx 9.6 sec 0-60, but I'd bet the farm that it's 0-30 and 25-50 times are faster as the car has 15 lbs more torque across most of the RPM range.
Great road car? Depends on what you value. I spend 99 % of my time below 80 mph, so the fact that it is slow above that doesn't bug me a bit. At a constant 80 mph, I get 28-30 mpg, 70mph give me 30-31 and 60 mph gives me 32 mpg. Drive it hard and 24-25 mpg is a certainty.
Keep the comments coming, we all have our opinions about the car. The VAST majority are positive, but none of us think the car is perfect. I'd put it up against ANY other car in it's class from 1999-2003 (special limited production models excluded) and all attributes considered, it usually comes out on top.
If I could afford a BMW 330i coupe or sedan, would I buy one? Probably, heck...for that kind of money (guessing about 35-40k) I'd look at a used 540 with the 6-speed manual and REALLY enjoy cross-country driving. Right?
Regards and respect,
Pete
Also, when it's time for my brakes to be done, can I get away with just replacing the brake pads or do I have to turn the rotors etc?
If I could afford a BMW 330i coupe or sedan, would I buy one? Probably, heck...for that kind of money (guessing about 35-40k) I'd look at a used 540 with the 6-speed manual and REALLY enjoy cross-country driving. Right?
Kinda funny as late last night I was out with my BMW and I noted at 85 in 6th gear I was turning less than 3k. My mileage indicator was showing 31 mpg.
BTW, I'll stick with my 330i Performance Package over a 540. 0-60 romps in the mid 5s and still a small enough car that it feels nimble.
In July, the 1.6 made the 1500 mile return trip to Toronto fully loaded with a bike mounted on the trunk. Even with the extra weight, the great little car was able to easily climb the mountains through Tennessee and Kentucky and tackle the brutal pavement on I75 in Michigan at an average speed of 75 miles an hour. The only complaint I have is that the light weight of the car lets it get bumped around by the trucks and rough pavement.
Its true that the seats are a little stiff on the long ride, but you shouldn't sit for that long anyway.
For brakes, I'd go ahead and refinish the rotors, even if the surfaces aren't all that rough. Modern rotors seem to be made of softer stuff than they used to (like on my '89 323), so I plan on changing them at the next brake service.
the 99 1.8L is the same beast. Faster you go, the smoother is revs.
I loved that car.
http://edmunds.com/used/1995/mazda/protege/2783/prices.html?tid=e- dmunds.u.mipmake.pricetable.num2.1.mazda*
the 99-00 had a 626 derived 1.8L.
It had wee bit better torque than the Miata version, IIRC and still very smooth. I was doing @95 once with the RPM somewhere over 4000. And it felt smooth and tight with no signs of any buzzing or vibrations. sweet.
1. Is it recommended to change spark plug wires along with the plugs at 30k?
2. For those who have had the Dunlop 5000's could it be that they ride smoother in wet conditons? Seems so. I also find (or perhaps imagine) that (on the same route) some days the ride is smoother than others. Temp differences?
Overall I'm pleased with the car except for the ride.
Offered US$13000 OTD for a silver automatic Pro5 no options, at another dealer and they did not even counter offer.
Maybe could have gotten a better deal, but the experience was painless and enjoyable (had been in contact with dealer for over a month).
Not many Pros left in South Florida and incentives expire next Monday 03/01/2004.
Ignition breaking down as engine heats up. suggest the following parts in this order:
1. coil
2. distributor assembly
3. computer
The onboard computer will not communicate with the diagnostic scanners.
Is it still repairable?
Thank you.
fowler3
Following about two months of wet, cold, yucky weather, we finally got a nice day here in Richmond Sunday. I spent almost seven hours outside with the 2000 ES and the 2002 P5, vacuuming, scrubbing, window-cleaning, tire-shining, etc. -- and now have two very nice-looking cars again.
The 2000 has 70,600 miles on it and it'll be spending Friday at Whitten Mazda getting its (belated) 60,000-mile service done. I'm having new plug wires installed too -- for all of you newbies, this REALLY makes a difference and I recommend changing them every 30,000 miles. Not a bad performance improvement for $50-$75. I'm getting this done now so there will be no worries on my 5-hour trip to Charlotte, NC the weekend of the 13th.
The 2002 just crossed 30K and needs its 30K-mile service, but due to bills and "shellout falter" we'll probably wait until April or May to have it done. We'll only be about 1,000 miles late with this one.
Both cars are running great and I have no plans to trade the 2000 ES at this time. Even though I've decided my next car will be a 3 wagon (but that $24,000 RX-8 sure is tempting!), the 2000 ES is covered by extended warranty until 100,000 miles and is running like the proverbial top, so why get rid of it now? I love the car as much as day one, and I will have owned it four years on May 24. Great car!
Meade
Meade
Can someone tell me how much the timing belt change costs? I heard someone post that the 60K service can run from 500-750. I've never had a car that cost that much for a service interval.
That's why I like the wagon/hatch cars so much. I never fit in the rear of a sedan with those sloping roof lines.
Need a car with some headroom, get in my Element! LoL.
But since you're there, you may as well have them replace the accessory belts (since they have to remove them anyway). This probably adds another $30-50.
Asking them to replace plugs, plug wires, oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant, water pump and checking/tightening nuts & bolts and lubricating hinges etc. is all up to you (the water pump is accessible during the timing belt change too). The water pump will likely last until your second timing belt change. The other stuff you can do yourself, if you have a means of properly disposing of the fluids and filters (like your local service garage or parts store...some will take them for free, some will require you to pay some fee).
I can definitely see the appeal though. Better road visibility and more headroom.
Are the oil companies taking advantage of people afraid to fly because of continuing reports of terrorist hijackings? Greed and planned non-resupplying has to be part of it. Deliberatly letting the reserves get too low is fraud. This sounds like the oil companies are pulling an Enron on consumers.
fowler3
Meade
Her old one, a 95 Pro 1.6, did start the "rough running, barely keep idling, limp to dealer" thing at about this mileage, (if memory serves me, that was in about 2001) After a costly diagnosis (darn dealers!), and a set of plug wires, it was fixed. However, it was out of warranty at that time due to time, not mileage...
Thanks,
"Dad"
No, it's not in the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, but it's something they do check during major services. You know, one of those "I/R" items. Think about all those high voltages (thousands of volts) and the fact that wires do break down over time due to heat and weather (it DOES get wet in there), and it's a pretty darned good, cheap, do-it-yourself performance and longevity boost for your Protege. Or any car for that matter.
The Protege's warranty is 4 years/50,000 miles, bumper to bumper. You can inspect the wires yourself -- just pull them off the plugs one by one and take a look at the insulation on them. If it looks fresh and new, great (but I'd still replace them). If instead it looks cracked, dried out or burned, they're on their way to plug wire heaven.
Do yourself a favor and avoid the high cost of another diagnostic test and just replace the wires.
Meade
My Advance Auto Parts doesn't list windshield wiper replacements for my wife's 2002 Protege5, but I'm almost certain her car has wipers.
Meade
Meade
I remember when a mechanic told me that the wife's Corolla required new wires and it would be $200 as the wires were expensive and it was a difficult to replace application. $70 and 10 minutes to replace the wires myself. And it was the easiest set I've ever replaced. Difficult to replace...Hah!
Kudos to the Protege.
I will have owned the car four years May 24.
My stats:
70,800 miles.
ZERO problems.
Smilin' & Zoomin',
Meade
But I don't think it's really fair to say "zero problems", even though I usually do.
I don't call a problem a problem until it's a problem!
Meade
P.S. That mechanic and I saw each other when I was dropping off my car this morning. We got to talking about the 3, and he said he was so upset to see the Protege line go that he bought himself an '03! He showed it to me, and of course it's got all the options (except auto tranny, heh heh). Now, if a Mazda mechanic who's been at my dealership at least 10 years believes in the car enough to buy one for himself ...
A/C is only adequate, worried about how it will do during the summer down here in Florida, going to check it out as well, maybe it needs re charging. I have had many Mazdas before; MX3, 626, and never had this problem.
Also the inside plastic panel that covers the left front pillar seems to be loose.
I hope this issues will be addressed by the dealer or Mazda, would hate to think I bought a Lemon.
Aside from this issues I am very happy with my new car.
I have an '00 ES and I had the chance to use the A/C for the first time this year yesterday when it got up to 80 here in Richmond. I'm continually amazed at how much frigid air comes out of my vents. My earlier Proteges ('92s) couldn't hold a candle to this one's A/C. I once stuck the probe to my digital thermometer in my center dash vent and got an A/C temp in the 40s. I'm impressed.
Meade
Yes, the cruise control needs to be moved. The strut tower bar kit should come with a new bracket that moves the cruise control.
Thanks Meade,
I tried the A/C as you have stated and the car does cool down, but it never really gets cold. After reading your post I am thinking that it may need a recharge of gas, after all this car was just sitting in the lot for maybe a year.
Jacques
I put a very light but noticeable scratch from my drivers door handle just onto the rear door. While the car is dirty I never see it, but as soon as I wash it, the darn thing jumps out at me like Pat on a Meadeball post.
I would care so much if it was on the passenger side since I'd never see it.
anyway, my mother's 2003 ES that was purchased in July 2003 has almost 17,000 miles on it! It has been the only car ever in her history to be "tweek free" in its initial miles. It still runs beautifully and is admired by friends and foes alike!
I of course broke down and decided to do the car payment thing again. I sold my 1996 Mitsu Galant with 183,000 miles on it and bought a 2001 Protege ES. I originally went for a new one, but decided with one more year of graduate school, a lower payment would be best suited for me. I searched high and low in Buffalo and on accident walked onto a lot one night that had a 2001 green Pro with 19,000 miles on it fully loaded...sunroof, alloys, fog lamps, spoiler, and even side air bags - a must for me! It was just traded in a couple of HOURS before I got there. One test drive and, in the words of the much esteemed Emeril, BAM, I was out the door. Now there are two Mazdas in the garage. Both trouble-free and both ready to zoom zoom at the drop of a hat! I don't miss the Mitsu one bit! It still amuses me to lurk on the domestic car sites and read the consumer gripes and think to myself, "Been there, done that, never again!" I had a great Galant (I'm not so sure about the newer ones) and I anticipate a great experience with the 2001 Pro from what I have read here.
Hey Meade...poignant tale of you and the deer. Deer are spotted daily down the road from me and, I too, almost clipped one on the way to work! Also, good advice regarding the plug wires. I will definitely consider that soon. My 2001 is at 27,000 now.
Hey Dinu...remember when you said you would give the name of that tire place near you in Toronto? Well, almost seven months later, I could use that info. I will definitely be replacing the tires over the summer.
Good to catch up with my "reading".
Garth
Tire Depot@Yonge/Steeles 905-882-8473
There are other ones, but I don't have the tel#/website (for all)- maybe if you do a search it'll come up
www.wheelandtirezone.com
Tiremag (Keele & Hwy 7)
Extreme Tire up in Richmond Hill
Tireworks in Mississauga
Wheels Direct near Scarborough Town Center Mall
Pickering Tire n Mag
Wheels Direct - 416-754-0997 (around Sheppard & McCowan)
Nantucket Tires - 416-288-9399 (around Kennedy & Ellesmere)
"Public Tire" on Lawrence JUST WEST of Dufferin.
OK Ready Tire On Weston Road just north of Steeles.
Hope this helps!
Meade
Jim
Other than that 7300 miles (since december 1) and no real problems. Gotta get an oil change soon though...
I will have owned the car four years May 24.
Meade