Hey Everybody! I just bought a 2001 protege ES 2.0 with GT package! The problem is, it's black...salesman said UV protection is a must. Is it really that necessary? Have any of you had problems with body paint fading?
Congratulations on your new Protege!!! The "UV protection" they apply is no better than a good $10-$15 bottle of wax and has to be continuously reapplied to remain effective. I would recommend the following:
1) Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner ($5.99 US) This outstanding product removes stains and oxidation that doesn't remove with washing or waxing. This product works chemically so it can be applied by hand and is 100% safe. I just rejuvenated my friend's 1986 Escort with this product. It turned the oxidized finish into a just-painted finish. Works wonders. For any of you with 80's or early 90's vehicles with yellowed headlight lenses, I have found this stuff takes the yellow right off and you once again have nice clear headlights!!
2) Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Step 2 Polish ($5.99 US) This polish removes oxidation, swirl marks, and light scratches. This is a must for a black car. It is best applied with a buffer (random orbital for novices, rotary for professionals). This is applied after chemically cleaning and before waxing. This is what gives your car that glossy like-new look.
3) Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax ($9.99 US) This is by far the best wax I have ever used. It really adds a nice gloss while protecting the paint from contaminants, oxidation, and UV rays. It applies easily, dries to a haze, and removes easily. Absolutely wonderful!!
Not sure if the black is clear-coated, but most clear-coat applications already have a UV-resistant layer applied.
Even if not, I'd stick with jstandefer's regimen since the UV would have to be applied periodically.
So far as TP goes, I stick with 32psi. Handles OK where it's at (alright, the edges on the stock Firestone FR680s roll over a little when I push it) and going higher makes the bumps harsher than I like. Now, if I were to drive on entertaining roads I'm sure are smooth, I'd bump it up to 34 or 35 (if the tires can handle it).
after MONTHS of lurking, posting, screw ups in getting the test drives in with my husband, rain, etc. (what could delay this did), we did it.
I went to a dealer not far from where I work (Old Orchard Mazda, for those in Chicago), where I know a few people with Mazdas go for service because they are good.
We got: Protege ES the package with the moonroof and ABS (just what we wanted) Black (wanted emerald mica, could not find it). Price:
We got screwed in our trade in - but... well, the reason we bought a car was that the car we were trading (a 1989 camry, 177K on it), was not safe at all in the winter; the doors froze shut (you either were locked in until the car got REALLY warm), the heat didn't always work (so at least once we got really stuck in the car) and the windshield wiper fliud holder was cracked, and you basically had to take out the engine to replace it ($$$, and if you've ever had a layer of salt on your windshield you know how easy it is to see out of ... NOT). So, while we were screwed somewhat, we had to get rid of it (and I'd rather sell it to a dealer who could fix it up then sell an unsafe car to someone off the street).
So ... Protege ES Black moonroof/ABS (package with those) price: 16432 (with the tax, doc fee, title, etc.) 4300 down NO extras (except as noted above) 0% interest $284.90 month for 48 months. (I'll have to double check those numbers, but I think I have everything okay)
I'm SOOO Happy!! and my daughter loves the moonroof more than mommy or daddy :-)
You have the same EXACT car I have, only mine has the cassette player in it. Also, I have gotten my windows tinted as well. I recommend both the new black Protege owners get their windows tinted, because it cuts down dramatically on the heat build-up inside the car during summer, and also helps the AC cool more effectively.
Also, the black is mica, not clearcoat. I don't know if it's the same, but know it's mica. It gets dirty really easily, so be prepared for many, many washings. But nothing on the road looks better when it's cleaned up and shining.
Congratulations on the new purchase Julia. When do you pick up your Pro? Seems like there's quite a few black Pros out there now (IMHO the nicest colour out there).
The "Mica" part of the name is referring to the Mica flake in the paint, much like a metallic finish. All Mazda paints are clearcoated except for Classic Red. Everytime I wax my Protege, I am left with a Classic Red buffing pad and cloths. I often wonder how many times I can do this before the paint goes bye-bye and I'll have to drive around in a Classic Red buffer!!
Just bought my new silver LX 2.0 on Sunday. I got automatic keyless remote alloy wheels sunroof LX Comfort Package plus destination for $15320 plus 0% for 48 months. Thanks to all of you for the great posts. I've been reading/comparing/researching for months. These messages have really helped me out.
My Dad had bought a Honda LX a week earlier and had to pay considerably more for the same stuff. . .and he still has the smaller engine. Needless to say he is a bit jealous.
I have replied to your e-mail regarding the paint care. However, I will also post my reply in the Protege Owners: Care & Maintenance board so that everyone else can benefit from the information (can be accessed from Town Hall- Owner's Clubs- Mazda Owner's Clubs- Mazda Protege Owners: Care & Maintenance).
I run my 2000 PRO-ES's at 32 PSI. I check the tire pressure every other car wash. I keep a good quality tire gauge in the glove box of my "twins". So far, the OME Bridgestones' and their OME valve stems hold that 32 PSI, with out fail. If you run more air pressure, to increase gas mileage or less to improve snow/ice traction, you WILL develop premature irregular wear patterns in your tire. My advice, keep your tire pressure set between 30-32 PSI and enjoy the Zoom Zoom Zoom lifstyle
I bought a tire rotation / alignment plan from a Firestone dealer (I have the Dunlop 5000 OEM tires). They inflated it to 35 (without checking I guess) I believe (what tire gauge should I buy that I can trust that doesn't cost an arm and a leg ???) and I didn't change it. Maybe it will ride a little smoother at 32. Have about 2700 miles, tires look brand new.
By the way, if anybody in central NewJersey is looking for a clean Pro, there's a green ES with auto that has 6100 miles on it. It is a "pre-owned" '01. I would have made the dealer an offer-(Circle Chevy-Buick-Pontiac; part of Flemington Car & Truck Country) but I'm very pleased with my '99 Civic.
I wonder why anyone would trade a "new" car in so soon! What a hit on depreciation they took.
I put my Pro on a lifetime alighment warranty . The tire dealer told me that new cars are almost definitely out of alignment from the ride in the transport (something to do with the way they are anchored). He confirmed it after the alignment. Thought he might be putting me on till I read your posts....
That car could very well have been a repo or unwind. Most dealerships will go to a finance company auctions for suitable vehicles. Most of those vehicles are lease returns, but a small percentage are vehicles that have been repossessed. An unwind is a vehicle that was sold before the finance company has looked at the loan and then decide they don't want to "buy" the deal. In other words, the bank has no idea that you just set up a loan for them for a couple of days. The sales managers look at your credit history and finances and try to determine whether or not a certain bank will "buy" your deal. They are correct most of the time... The dealership then takes posession of the vehicle and if the vehicle has not been registered yet, they can sell it new. However, if the vehicle has been registered, they must sell it used.
Or then again, someone may have just traded it in. We usually don't see this on sedans such as the Protege. This would be typical of a Miata or small coupe like a Celica. The wives are not too happy when the husband is supposed to buy a family vehicle and shows up with a Miata...
I agree with jstandefer that the meguiar's are fine products, but I would also recommend to you Zymol cleaner wax (especially if you are only going to be applying one step, instead of polishing, waxing, etc.).
Zymol is rated excellent for hazing and swirling, two definite problems of dark finishes. We've had a lot of problems with swirling with various waxes on our 99 Supermarine Blue CRV (a deep, rich blue, not like the crappy one they are selling now). I could clearly see the difference between where I had waxed and buffed and where I had not yet gone. The only problem is that it is not rated well for durability (as many softer, liquid waxes are not), so I would recommend frequent application (every month or two).
I recall "welcoming you aboard" some time back, being under the impression you'd just bought one. Oh well, chalk it up to impending geezerdom! re: your screw job on trade. I propose we start a new forum, How I Got Screwed On My Trade-In. Then we could be brutally honest on just how much we got on our particular vehicles while avoiding the embarrasment of admitting this in person. Whaddayuh all think? Unlike the rest of you I had a good reason. ) I just didn't want the hassle of selling privately. re: Black Up here in the boonies I rarely see a new Pro period and have never seen a black one. Although I've grown quite fond of my light sandalwood whenever I see a freshly washed and waxed decent black car I'm convinced nothing looks better. Sadly I'm too lazy too ever own a black one. Enjoy! Dennis MI
I can't believe it! Haven't even had the car for a week yet. My brother and his family were over for dinner tonight. I told him "Come and check out my new ride". I see a small spot on my door that looks like some dirt (my car needs a good wash due to rain yesturday). I went to gently brush it off with my finger, but, to my horror, realized it was a scratch right through the paint. I was sooo pissed, I had a hard time showing my brother the rest of the car. I've been so careful avoiding other cars by parking way out in parking lots. I wonder what the low life was thinking after they bumped my new car. Did they get a good chuckle after realizing they scratched a nice new car? Did they even realize they hit it? Did they have any remorse at all for their careless act???? The scratch is small, maybe less than a quarter inch long, but it will nag at me for a couple of days and anytime I wash the car.
Any suggestions on buffing that out? The door was not dented at all, just the paint scratched through.
The one good side to this is I have some amunition to use for my wife everytime she complains when I park out at the end of every parking lot. I'll just show her the scratch and say "See what happens when I park up close next to all those careless drivers!"
Is your scratch right thru to the sheet metal? Or is it just the clearcoat? If it's just the clearcoat, try Merguiar's scratch-X. It's a very mild abrasive that may work...but you may not want to use an abrasive. Ask Bretfraz or mrdetailer over in the "Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)" forum. They offer good advice. I would be wary of using a high power buffer to get it out because that could easily do more harm than good. Sorry I don't have more to offer.
There are several new Protege owners here. Welcome, and congratulations on your purchases! We'll be all too happy to help answer any questions you may have about your new cars.
By the way, since many of you don't list where you are in your profiles, I can't invite you individually to the second-annual Mid-Atlantic Protege Picnic! If you live within a couple hundred miles of Northern Virginia, you may be interested in joining us at this year's picnic on Saturday, October 6. So far we have about 10 Proteges and 15 or so people on the list. If you want more information, drop me an e-mail at:
mdaffron@the-rma.org
New subject ... waxes and polishes. I tried a bottle of Meguiar's Gold Class when I bought my Protege and found it a very nice polish -- unfortunately, as with most Meguiar's products, it washes off with only a few washings. It doesn't last long at all! I then set out to find the best polish I could -- and guess what, I wound up right back with my old standby -- Nu Finish. Just as easy to apply and remove, just as good a result, and lasts MUCH longer. I haven't waxed my car since March, and it looks fantastic and washes very easily. I'll probably give it another polishing before the MAPP.
Don't feel bad, scratches happen to the best of us. I have about 5 or so scratches all over my car, and it's only 6 months old. People around where I live are just plain careless and it makes me sick, but there is nothing I can do about it for right now.
Quick trades: Some people just tire of their cars quickly. My cousin bought a Jeep in 1998, and traded it in 1999 with only 10K on it. Same thing with a Celica he bought in October of 1999. It was gone by June of 2000, with less an 10K on it. I know he had to lose alot of money on the trade, but it's not my business. His foolishness.
Jerry: Do guys really come in and buy cars like Miatas and Celicas, and have to trade them for others because of their wives? That is too funny!
Pro_fan: I'm not sure if it's down to the sheet metal, but it's definitely through the paint. The car is Emerald Mica, and the scratch is white. Is that a primer or something that's applied before the coats of the emerald paint? It's not a surface mark either, since I can feel the chip in the paint when I rub my finger over it.
I do love this car, though. I've got near 500 miles already, and it seems to get more fun as each mile tacks on. I can't wait until she's fully broken in so I can let her loose a few times. I find it getting harder to hold myself back from reving her up and driving aggressively when the opportunities arrive!
As far as car polishes are concerned, I've used a product called Liquid Glass in the past. It's not cheep, but it's worked well for me on past cars. The only place I've seen it is through Pep Boys. Any feedback on that product from others out there?
I live in extreme Southern Cal. When I bought my Pro and took it to work, nobody seemed to get very enthused about the car! Some didn't even know that Mazda was a Japanese car co. let alone know about the Protoge. It would be nice to join a group such as yours though. One last question regarding the paint protection: Is there such thing as an expensive product that is applied to the paint that genuinely protects the paint (something better than the over-the-counter stuff)?
my Sand Mica Protegé LX 2.0 Sunday and used Meguiar's Cleaner - Wax. She looks beautiful, better than when I picked her up at the dealer. Also did the tire treatment stuff and went over every surface with cleaners. Use a soft brush for cleaning dust and white specks out of the dash AC/Heat ducts and tight spaces between dash/console parts. Vac the carpets. Took five hours.
Tip: You can buy a retractable soft brush at AutoZone or Pep Boys. nice to carry in your glove box. Painted dashes can be easily scratched.
Tip: When washing be sure to clean the valve stems and caps thuroughly so you don't get brake dust on your fingers when you check tire pressure at service stations. There might not be paper towels available.
If it's white, it may just be a scratch in the clearcoat. As I understand, the white is caused by refraction of light as it passes thru the scratch in the clearcoat. Obviously light acts differently thru the scratch than the smooth surface of the rest of the clearcoat. Not 100% sure on that though. Perhaps it's just another wives tale.
Buy touch up paint at your dealer. Apply it with a small (very small) brush in thin layers. Do not use the applicator (horse hair or plastic equivalent) that comes with the bottle. It's too stiff and too large. Or use a tooth pick or similar small tool.
Does my 2001 Protoge have a free adjustment period of 12,000 miles? Does this include alignments? I can SEE the negative camber of my back wheels and I swear that the driver side has a little more negative camber than the passenger side. I have about 8500 miles on my car, but the dealer still wants to charge me $80 to get the car aligned.
Don't you dare let them charge you for an alignment! They had to align mine FOUR times before they got it right, and it turned out the steering wheel was on crooked in the first place. Ugh. Your car has the free adjustment for the 12,000 miles, so the alignment is free.
Meade: Funny. I traded my 1999 for a 2001, and it had 38K on it though. I just got tired of the stripper DX, so I dumped it. Glad I did now though.
I used a small art brush to fill a HUGE scratch on the front of my car right by the Mazda symbol. Now the paint dried, and I can't get it off. What can I do about it?
Why are you using a CLEANER WAX on your car? I don't know about Meguiar's, but most brands' cleaner waxes contain an abrasive that'll spell death to your clearcoat!
That negative camber on the rear wheels is present on my 2000 ES as well. I attributed it to the TTL rear suspension -- in 24,500 miles, which is basically the service life of the Bridgestone Poortenzas that came with the car, I've had no alignment or uneven wear problems. FYI ... I'll be interested in hearing the outcome of your query, however!
We got the car the day we bought it, it had 10 miles on it, test drove it and put another few miles on it. It was raining and we were on a stretch of road with noone else on it so we tried the abs (good to do in a non-emergency situation so we know what to expect), understood why we should have them.
It is black mica with a clear coat.
And I forgot to mention a few things about Old Orchard dealership: they have about 4 p5s on the lot (including yellow) - they said only the yellow is selling at about MSRP, but the others at a hundred or so over invoice (I did not ask if they'd do the s-plan with them, but since the p5s have been on the lot for a few weeks they may). They also mentioned they had a lot of the Protege LX line still, don't know if that is true or not, but it may be worth checking out if you are looking for one.
I am wondering now if I should have gotten the extended warranty stuff because we hope to keep this car until it dies (10 years?) ...
I love the car, the zip, the roominess, everything. I am so so so happy we got it.
Now to start looking for a car to buy in 4 years for my husband ... I'm thinking a mid-life crises black miata ....
That's a layer above the primer, and is usually the base layer for the colored layers above. So, you're lucky in that metal is not exposed. You're unlucky in that metallic paint is difficult to touch up w/o being obvious.
Of course, you have a clearcoat. Mine is classic red, so I too have ruddy cloths etc. after I polish and wax it. I guess this is the same for my '89 323. Luckily, I haven't yet worn through the paint yet. Hope the same goes with my '99 LX.
As fowler3 has stated small brushes! Go to a good hobby shop that emphasizes plastic models. They'll have an excellent selection of very tiny to larger (larger being relative. We're talking models after all) size brushes at reasonable prices.
As someone who has survived (actually walked out of) a 45-mph hydroplaning accident, let me offer some advice on ABS and wet roads.
The ONLY way to drive safely in wet weather is to slow down and don't make any sudden changes in speed or direction. Once you start hydroplaning, it won't make any difference in the world whether you have ABS or not ... because your tires will not be touching the road surface at that point.
The ONLY thing I see helpful about ABS is that it's beneficial for people who have a tendency to slam on the brakes. ABS prevents brake lockup, and that's it. It won't increase your traction or correct hydroplaning once it has started. I decided to forego the ABS (I was too tall for the moonroof anyway) and instead get some decent wet-weather tires as soon as possible ... so my 2000 Protege will be getting a set of Yokohama AVID T4s next month.
IMO ABS would be very benificial in heavy snow/ice conditions, especially up here in Canada. When your wheels lock on ice, you have NO steering capabilities. That's why I got the ABS. Of course, winter tires would help immensely...sigh, too much to buy, so little money.
Actually, one of the main areas we have had problems with our 1999 Protege ES is the alignment. We replaced the stock Bridgestones around 24,000 miles (approx) with Nokian brand. We had a 4-wheel alignment done, as it had started pulling a bit to one side while driving.
Now, our car has about 48,000 miles on it. Over the past few months, the tires have become VERY noisy. The tires still have a good amount of tread left, but I did notice that the tread looks like it is "blocking," which I think means that the toe-in is off. I called my local Mazda dealer who said that their policy was that as long as the car had less than 12,000 miles on it, they will check and re-align for free, if necessary.
Try mentioning that you had a friend with a Protege and relay the 12,000 mile "standard" above and see what happens. You might also mention the comments others have made about alignment shifts during overseas shipping and such.
won't behave any differently on ice than any other tire ... because ice offers no traction possibilities at all. Winter tires help in snow .. not ice ... unless they're studded. But studded tires are illegal in my state.
The only thing that helps us here in Virginia ... we get lots of ice as opposed to snow ... is tire chains. Chains can BITE into the ice and give you traction that tires alone cannot.
I love hearing "Northern" folks (er, damn Yankees) make fun of us "Suthunuhs" not being able to handle a couple of inches of snow. What they don't understand ... and I frequently get to see the humourous results of this ... is that "down here," we get a couple of inches of snow OVER AN INCH OR TWO OF ICE. Every year I see damn Yankees wrecked on the side of I-95 where it comes through Richmond. They're so used to the nice, powdery stuff that they speed right through it, and the first little bend in the road sends 'em careening off into guardrails, ditches, trees ... it's amusing to see them speed by me, so I can leisurely roll by a few miles later and shout, "So sorry, Y'ALL!!!"
I haven't had the opportunity to test my ABS on my new pro yet. I will need to change my driving habits, since this is the first abs car I've owned and I'm so used to pumping the brakes in emergency situations. Our van we bought last spring also has abs, which should benefit my wife since she has a tendency to slam the brakes during panic situations. I, on the other hand, may be worse off with abs, since my instinct for pumping the brakes may take over. I'll have to practice panic stops in my pro when we get our first snowfall, which sadly may be less than 3 months away!
I agree with Meade that abs, snow tires, all-wheel-drive, etc, will not substitute common sense when driving in icy conditions. Up here in MN, I've seen too many situations where drivers feel they are invincible because they have 4 wheel drive. You can't change the laws of physics.
I have to disagree. Here's a quote from an article on carpoint.ca: "New Breed of Winter Tires Bridgestone was the trailblazer for the new breed of premium winter tires in North America. Its Blizzak, a single-purpose winter tire that clawed its way through deep snow and stuck like glue on ice, quickly developed a cult-like following. "
My father has these Blizzaks on his '91 MPV. Although I've managed to make the van slide on ice it definitely stuck much better than the all-seasons he used to use. I agree though. Nothing can beat common sense. However, when you do have to make emergency maneuvers in snow AND ice, chains/studded tires are not the only options, and winter tires DO behave differently on ice than a regular tire.
for your reading pleasure: "What is most important is the level of improvement they offer over standard all-season tires. Even at 20 km/h, in tests we conducted on an icy surface, the vehicles equipped with winter tires stopped from a half to a full car-length shorter than identical vehicles on all-seasons. That could be the difference between a safe stop and a bumper-basher at a traffic light. At higher speeds, those differences get more dramatic.
Similar improvements were apparent negotiating a loose slalom course--not unlike typical parking lot manoeuvres. Not only were the vehicles on winter tires measurably faster (by 10 to 20%--an indication of the added margin of traction they provide-- but they were noticeably easier to control."
One can find reviews that support any point, and while I will admit that the Blizzaks and other tires *help* on ice, the help is minimal. The review I've linked below compared the Blizzaks with metal-stud and "regular" all-season tires, and noted that on average, the Blizzaks shortened stopping distances by only 8 percent on ice.
Lessee here ... the article says that on average, vehicles fitted with Blizzaks stopped from 25 mph in 118 feet, as opposed to 128 feet with all-season tires. Man, I don't know about you, but if it's going to take my car that far -- the dry-pavement equivalent of stopping from 60 -- to stop on ice, then that extra 10 feet isn't going to make much of a difference. That's less than a car length's difference from almost half a football field away. Does anyone follow that far at 25 mph, even on ice?
In Virginia we'll get an ice storm one year; some flurries another; no winter precip at all the next; and 20 inches another year. Maybe these Blizzaks are great for places where you can count on winter weather by the truckload, but for where I'm from, common sense and careful, defensive driving will make more than enough difference than those Blizzaks. And at no cost.
I'll keep my all-season radials and my $20 set of chains for emergencies. Oh, and another thing ... when we do get those ice storms, I'm not out driving. I'm sitting by the fireplace, wrapped up in an afghan (or my wife), sipping bourbon ...
"Jerry: Do guys really come in and buy cars like Miatas and Celicas, and have to trade them for others because of their wives? That is too funny! " -Vocus
I wouldn't believe it myself until I actually experienced it. It happens!!
Basically the entire car is covered under warranty during the 12 month/12,000 mile adjustment period. That includes brake pads, alignment, clutch, etc. If you have a problem with them, take it to another dealership or give Mazda a call. They are really cracking down on dealerships right now as they establish their Mazda Elite program. Hine Mazda in San Diego has always been one of the top selling Mazda dealerships in the area and has outstanding customer service ratings. They have been a Mazda President's Guild dealership several times and is currently a Mazda Elite dealership. They've been selling Mazda's since 1972. Mazda recently came in and made them add additions to the very large showroom to separate the Mazda's from the Pontiac vehicles. They ended up building a tinted glass wall and overhead connector that spans the width and height of the showroom. Expect to see a lot of changes at Mazda dealership nationwide.
grubbs1: I've been talking about organizing a West Coast or Southern California Protege Picnic, but haven't received much of a response. I don't think there are a whole lot of Protege owners here in Town Hall from the west coast, let alone Southern California. Even Edmunds said to let them know and they will offer a surprise at the meeting.
I've read that it's because the clearcoat, over time, tends to yellow, turning your red car into orange. The yellowing must not be as noticable with other colors.
The rubber actually has tiny pores that help pull away water on the surface of the ice. This increases traction a little.
Of course, when it's so cold that there isn't much water on the ice to begin with, or if the ice is submerged under a visible layer of water, there won't be much difference. The pores do make a difference when the conditions are such that ice liquefies under pressure (as when a tire rolls over it), creating a thin slick layer of water.
Of course, the best thing to do is not to drive on the stuff, and if you have to, to take it easy. Most people seem to do this. Some people push the limits and usually end up screwing up traffic for everyone, at the least. Of course, most vehicles I see stranded off the side of the road are 4WD or AWD types whose owners thought they were invincible.
Comments
Thanks,
Don
I just bought a 2001 protege ES 2.0 with GT package! The problem is, it's black...salesman said UV protection is a must. Is it really that necessary? Have any of you had problems with body paint fading?
Thanx!
1) Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner ($5.99 US)
This outstanding product removes stains and oxidation that doesn't remove with washing or waxing. This product works chemically so it can be applied by hand and is 100% safe. I just rejuvenated my friend's 1986 Escort with this product. It turned the oxidized finish into a just-painted finish. Works wonders. For any of you with 80's or early 90's vehicles with yellowed headlight lenses, I have found this stuff takes the yellow right off and you once again have nice clear headlights!!
2) Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Step 2 Polish ($5.99 US)
This polish removes oxidation, swirl marks, and light scratches. This is a must for a black car. It is best applied with a buffer (random orbital for novices, rotary for professionals). This is applied after chemically cleaning and before waxing. This is what gives your car that glossy like-new look.
3) Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax ($9.99 US)
This is by far the best wax I have ever used. It really adds a nice gloss while protecting the paint from contaminants, oxidation, and UV rays. It applies easily, dries to a haze, and removes easily. Absolutely wonderful!!
Even if not, I'd stick with jstandefer's regimen since the UV would have to be applied periodically.
So far as TP goes, I stick with 32psi. Handles OK where it's at (alright, the edges on the stock Firestone FR680s roll over a little when I push it) and going higher makes the bumps harsher than I like. Now, if I were to drive on entertaining roads I'm sure are smooth, I'd bump it up to 34 or 35 (if the tires can handle it).
I went to a dealer not far from where I work (Old Orchard Mazda, for those in Chicago), where I know a few people with Mazdas go for service because they are good.
We got:
Protege ES
the package with the moonroof and ABS (just what we wanted)
Black (wanted emerald mica, could not find it).
Price:
We got screwed in our trade in - but... well, the reason we bought a car was that the car we were trading (a 1989 camry, 177K on it), was not safe at all in the winter; the doors froze shut (you either were locked in until the car got REALLY warm), the heat didn't always work (so at least once we got really stuck in the car) and the windshield wiper fliud holder was cracked, and you basically had to take out the engine to replace it ($$$, and if you've ever had a layer of salt on your windshield you know how easy it is to see out of ... NOT). So, while we were screwed somewhat, we had to get rid of it (and I'd rather sell it to a dealer who could fix it up then sell an unsafe car to someone off the street).
So ...
Protege ES
Black
moonroof/ABS (package with those)
price:
16432 (with the tax, doc fee, title, etc.)
4300 down
NO extras (except as noted above)
0% interest
$284.90 month for 48 months.
(I'll have to double check those numbers, but I think I have everything okay)
I'm SOOO Happy!! and my daughter loves the moonroof more than mommy or daddy :-)
Also, the black is mica, not clearcoat. I don't know if it's the same, but know it's mica. It gets dirty really easily, so be prepared for many, many washings. But nothing on the road looks better when it's cleaned up and shining.
automatic
keyless remote
alloy wheels
sunroof
LX Comfort Package plus destination for
$15320 plus 0% for 48 months. Thanks to all of you for the great posts. I've been reading/comparing/researching for months. These messages have really helped me out.
My Dad had bought a Honda LX a week earlier and had to pay considerably more for the same stuff. . .and he still has the smaller engine. Needless to say he is a bit jealous.
Thanks again
Respectfully,
Larry
I wonder why anyone would trade a "new" car in so soon! What a hit on depreciation they took.
Or then again, someone may have just traded it in. We usually don't see this on sedans such as the Protege. This would be typical of a Miata or small coupe like a Celica. The wives are not too happy when the husband is supposed to buy a family vehicle and shows up with a Miata...
Zymol is rated excellent for hazing and swirling, two definite problems of dark finishes. We've had a lot of problems with swirling with various waxes on our 99 Supermarine Blue CRV (a deep, rich blue, not like the crappy one they are selling now). I could clearly see the difference between where I had waxed and buffed and where I had not yet gone. The only problem is that it is not rated well for durability (as many softer, liquid waxes are not), so I would recommend frequent application (every month or two).
re: your screw job on trade. I propose we start a new forum, How I Got Screwed On My Trade-In. Then we could be brutally honest on just how much we got on our particular vehicles while avoiding the embarrasment of admitting this in person. Whaddayuh all think?
Unlike the rest of you I had a good reason.
re: Black Up here in the boonies I rarely see a new Pro period and have never seen a black one. Although I've grown quite fond of my light sandalwood whenever I see a freshly washed and waxed decent black car I'm convinced nothing looks better. Sadly I'm too lazy too ever own a black one.
Enjoy! Dennis MI
Any suggestions on buffing that out? The door was not dented at all, just the paint scratched through.
The one good side to this is I have some amunition to use for my wife everytime she complains when I park out at the end of every parking lot. I'll just show her the scratch and say "See what happens when I park up close next to all those careless drivers!"
Mike.
I would be wary of using a high power buffer to get it out because that could easily do more harm than good.
Sorry I don't have more to offer.
Pro_fan
By the way, since many of you don't list where you are in your profiles, I can't invite you individually to the second-annual Mid-Atlantic Protege Picnic! If you live within a couple hundred miles of Northern Virginia, you may be interested in joining us at this year's picnic on Saturday, October 6. So far we have about 10 Proteges and 15 or so people on the list. If you want more information, drop me an e-mail at:
mdaffron@the-rma.org
New subject ... waxes and polishes. I tried a bottle of Meguiar's Gold Class when I bought my Protege and found it a very nice polish -- unfortunately, as with most Meguiar's products, it washes off with only a few washings. It doesn't last long at all! I then set out to find the best polish I could -- and guess what, I wound up right back with my old standby -- Nu Finish. Just as easy to apply and remove, just as good a result, and lasts MUCH longer. I haven't waxed my car since March, and it looks fantastic and washes very easily. I'll probably give it another polishing before the MAPP.
Meade
Quick trades: Some people just tire of their cars quickly. My cousin bought a Jeep in 1998, and traded it in 1999 with only 10K on it. Same thing with a Celica he bought in October of 1999. It was gone by June of 2000, with less an 10K on it. I know he had to lose alot of money on the trade, but it's not my business. His foolishness.
Jerry: Do guys really come in and buy cars like Miatas and Celicas, and have to trade them for others because of their wives? That is too funny!
I do love this car, though. I've got near 500 miles already, and it seems to get more fun as each mile tacks on. I can't wait until she's fully broken in so I can let her loose a few times. I find it getting harder to hold myself back from reving her up and driving aggressively when the opportunities arrive!
As far as car polishes are concerned, I've used a product called Liquid Glass in the past. It's not cheep, but it's worked well for me on past cars. The only place I've seen it is through Pep Boys. Any feedback on that product from others out there?
(Ooops, I'm picking on you again ...)
Meadeball
Tip: You can buy a retractable soft brush at AutoZone or Pep Boys. nice to carry in your glove box. Painted dashes can be easily scratched.
Tip: When washing be sure to clean the valve stems and caps thuroughly so you don't get brake dust on your fingers when you check tire pressure at service stations. There might not be paper towels available.
fowler3
Mike
fowler3
Meade: Funny.
I used a small art brush to fill a HUGE scratch on the front of my car right by the Mazda symbol. Now the paint dried, and I can't get it off. What can I do about it?
Meade
Meade
It is black mica with a clear coat.
And I forgot to mention a few things about Old Orchard dealership: they have about 4 p5s on the lot (including yellow) - they said only the yellow is selling at about MSRP, but the others at a hundred or so over invoice (I did not ask if they'd do the s-plan with them, but since the p5s have been on the lot for a few weeks they may). They also mentioned they had a lot of the Protege LX line still, don't know if that is true or not, but it may be worth checking out if you are looking for one.
I am wondering now if I should have gotten the extended warranty stuff because we hope to keep this car until it dies (10 years?) ...
I love the car, the zip, the roominess, everything. I am so so so happy we got it.
Now to start looking for a car to buy in 4 years for my husband ... I'm thinking a mid-life crises black miata ....
julia
Of course, you have a clearcoat. Mine is classic red, so I too have ruddy cloths etc. after I polish and wax it. I guess this is the same for my '89 323. Luckily, I haven't yet worn through the paint yet. Hope the same goes with my '99 LX.
The ONLY way to drive safely in wet weather is to slow down and don't make any sudden changes in speed or direction. Once you start hydroplaning, it won't make any difference in the world whether you have ABS or not ... because your tires will not be touching the road surface at that point.
The ONLY thing I see helpful about ABS is that it's beneficial for people who have a tendency to slam on the brakes. ABS prevents brake lockup, and that's it. It won't increase your traction or correct hydroplaning once it has started. I decided to forego the ABS (I was too tall for the moonroof anyway) and instead get some decent wet-weather tires as soon as possible ... so my 2000 Protege will be getting a set of Yokohama AVID T4s next month.
Drive safely!
Meade
Now, our car has about 48,000 miles on it. Over the past few months, the tires have become VERY noisy. The tires still have a good amount of tread left, but I did notice that the tread looks like it is "blocking," which I think means that the toe-in is off. I called my local Mazda dealer who said that their policy was that as long as the car had less than 12,000 miles on it, they will check and re-align for free, if necessary.
Try mentioning that you had a friend with a Protege and relay the 12,000 mile "standard" above and see what happens. You might also mention the comments others have made about alignment shifts during overseas shipping and such.
Good luck!
The only thing that helps us here in Virginia ... we get lots of ice as opposed to snow ... is tire chains. Chains can BITE into the ice and give you traction that tires alone cannot.
I love hearing "Northern" folks (er, damn Yankees) make fun of us "Suthunuhs" not being able to handle a couple of inches of snow. What they don't understand ... and I frequently get to see the humourous results of this ... is that "down here," we get a couple of inches of snow OVER AN INCH OR TWO OF ICE. Every year I see damn Yankees wrecked on the side of I-95 where it comes through Richmond. They're so used to the nice, powdery stuff that they speed right through it, and the first little bend in the road sends 'em careening off into guardrails, ditches, trees ... it's amusing to see them speed by me, so I can leisurely roll by a few miles later and shout, "So sorry, Y'ALL!!!"
Meade
I agree with Meade that abs, snow tires, all-wheel-drive, etc, will not substitute common sense when driving in icy conditions. Up here in MN, I've seen too many situations where drivers feel they are invincible because they have 4 wheel drive. You can't change the laws of physics.
"New Breed of Winter Tires
Bridgestone was the trailblazer for the new breed of premium winter tires in North America. Its Blizzak, a single-purpose winter tire that clawed its way through deep snow and stuck like glue on ice, quickly developed a cult-like following. "
My father has these Blizzaks on his '91 MPV. Although I've managed to make the van slide on ice it definitely stuck much better than the all-seasons he used to use.
I agree though. Nothing can beat common sense. However, when you do have to make emergency maneuvers in snow AND ice, chains/studded tires are not the only options, and winter tires DO behave differently on ice than a regular tire.
Pro_fan
"What is most important is the level of improvement they offer over standard all-season tires. Even at 20 km/h, in tests we conducted on an icy surface, the vehicles equipped with winter tires stopped from a half to a full car-length shorter than identical vehicles on all-seasons. That could be the difference between a safe stop and a bumper-basher at a traffic light. At higher speeds, those differences get more dramatic.
Similar improvements were apparent negotiating a loose slalom course--not unlike typical parking lot manoeuvres. Not only were the vehicles on winter tires measurably faster (by 10 to 20%--an indication of the added margin of traction they provide-- but they were noticeably easier to control."
Lessee here ... the article says that on average, vehicles fitted with Blizzaks stopped from 25 mph in 118 feet, as opposed to 128 feet with all-season tires. Man, I don't know about you, but if it's going to take my car that far -- the dry-pavement equivalent of stopping from 60 -- to stop on ice, then that extra 10 feet isn't going to make much of a difference. That's less than a car length's difference from almost half a football field away. Does anyone follow that far at 25 mph, even on ice?
In Virginia we'll get an ice storm one year; some flurries another; no winter precip at all the next; and 20 inches another year. Maybe these Blizzaks are great for places where you can count on winter weather by the truckload, but for where I'm from, common sense and careful, defensive driving will make more than enough difference than those Blizzaks. And at no cost.
I'll keep my all-season radials and my $20 set of chains for emergencies. Oh, and another thing ... when we do get those ice storms, I'm not out driving. I'm sitting by the fireplace, wrapped up in an afghan (or my wife), sipping bourbon ...
Dammit, when's winter gonna get here???!!!
Meade
OH! Almost forgot:
http://www.usroads.com/journals/aruj/9712/ru971202.htm
I wouldn't believe it myself until I actually experienced it. It happens!!
Basically the entire car is covered under warranty during the 12 month/12,000 mile adjustment period. That includes brake pads, alignment, clutch, etc. If you have a problem with them, take it to another dealership or give Mazda a call. They are really cracking down on dealerships right now as they establish their Mazda Elite program. Hine Mazda in San Diego has always been one of the top selling Mazda dealerships in the area and has outstanding customer service ratings. They have been a Mazda President's Guild dealership several times and is currently a Mazda Elite dealership. They've been selling Mazda's since 1972. Mazda recently came in and made them add additions to the very large showroom to separate the Mazda's from the Pontiac vehicles. They ended up building a tinted glass wall and overhead connector that spans the width and height of the showroom. Expect to see a lot of changes at Mazda dealership nationwide.
grubbs1: I've been talking about organizing a West Coast or Southern California Protege Picnic, but haven't received much of a response. I don't think there are a whole lot of Protege owners here in Town Hall from the west coast, let alone Southern California. Even Edmunds said to let them know and they will offer a surprise at the meeting.
Dave
topazmoon
csuftitans
hboyd
pcalvin
Some haven't been seen around these parts in a while and may not be interested. If you decide to do it, I'll be there.
Of course, when it's so cold that there isn't much water on the ice to begin with, or if the ice is submerged under a visible layer of water, there won't be much difference. The pores do make a difference when the conditions are such that ice liquefies under pressure (as when a tire rolls over it), creating a thin slick layer of water.
Of course, the best thing to do is not to drive on the stuff, and if you have to, to take it easy. Most people seem to do this. Some people push the limits and usually end up screwing up traffic for everyone, at the least. Of course, most vehicles I see stranded off the side of the road are 4WD or AWD types whose owners thought they were invincible.