Nissan Sentra Problems

nexuspi55nexuspi55 Member Posts: 1
edited April 2014 in Nissan
One of my friends has a 97 nissan sentra gxe and it will not start. The car is in excellent condition with under 80,000 miles. The battery works fine. I think it's the starter but what do I know. Does anyone have any ideas?


  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    any help here you will have to give a lot more information. ie. does engine turn over, does it have gas, does it try to start, what is the last repair done,does it have a spark???????? What other checks have been done? If you can't provide more information I'd say tell friend to take to a reliable service shop. Good luck.
  • boblueboblue Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Sentra. A curved perforated plate which was attached to the exhaust pipe below the car fell off.
    Can someone tell me what is this for and how critical is it for the operation of the vehicle.
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    The part was a heat shield. Due to high heat and road grime they tend to corrode and fall off in time. I wouldn't worry about it.
  • srt1999srt1999 Member Posts: 1
    there is a connection to the pos battery cable that may be disconnected. try adjusting the wire. it works like a ground.
  • lodielodie Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Sentra GXE & for the past 4-1/2 months, I've been experiencing the same problem. I put the key in the ignition, turn & nothing. The dome light, radio, horn, & headlights all work fine. I've have so many tow truck calls that my insurance company drop me from the emergency roadside assistance program. Let's see each incident, after new battery was installed(9/00): re-built alternator(10/00-1st mechanic $460), 3 days later ground wire replaced (same mechanic $60), AAC value replaced (11/00-Nissan Service Dealer $363), loose connection on electrical wire #E150(12/00- SAME Nissan Service Dealer $200), was finally told (02/01 -$50) by same Nissan Service Dealer that the chip that controls the shifting of my transmission was bad, but they still needed to investigate further. Funny thing is the last time this happened, while I was waiting for a ride home, the car just started all of a sudden, go figure. At this point I'm ready to TRADE IT IN, because I can't rely on it any more, unless I'm missing something!!!! Any thoughts out there??!?!?
  • lrs_nissan94lrs_nissan94 Member Posts: 3
    I currently have approximately 217k miles on my car, I purchased it with only 4miles and I have been blessed that it has held out very good! Anyway, I am currently having a problem with my car, it makes a thumping sound while driving, especially when I slow down then ease back on the accelator, it seems as if something is lose in the wheels, and when the thumping occurs I can feel a vibration but I have to ease off of the accelator and it stops. It only does this if I am getting my speed back up especially around 45 to 60 miles per hour. Also someone looked under the hood to see how my motor goes up when I change gears, and when I put it in reverse it raises higher than normal, could it be that one of my motor mounts is lose????

    Does anyone know what thumping noise is? Please give me some suggestions! THanks
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    You have one or more motor mounts that have worn out. They are only a piece of hard rubber pushed in between 2 pieces of metal and they generally do not last more than 200K max. My 91 Nissan Stanza has the same problem and the front motor mount is visibly missing half of its rubber (it only has 135,000 miles). My 84 VW Rabbit was making a thumping sound everytime I lifted off the gas. Turned out the side rubber mount had completely rotted away and the bolt had fallen an entire inch down to the metal support bracket, thereby causing the thumping noise. All your symptoms point to a failing motor mount. The mounts themselves aren't too expensive, but labor charges can be high, depending on how hard the mounts are to get too. Take your car to a shop and they can determine which mount is bad. Hope this helps.
  • lrs_nissan94lrs_nissan94 Member Posts: 3
    Just wanted to say thanks for your advice. Yes I will take it to the dealer to see what is the problem and hope that my mechanic can replace the mounts. Actually that's what my mechanic said but he didn't know which one it was. If it is the mount, I am glad, because I am on the verge of getting another car, but I sure don't want the note.

    Again thanks for your help :-)
  • keith52keith52 Member Posts: 3
    the odometer at 35000 miles has decided to quit and maybe on an intermittent basis work for a mile any suggestions where to look
  • rosed5rosed5 Member Posts: 2
    My 92 Nissan sentra 4Dr has only 58k miles. In the past 4 months I've had the car in the dealership regarding an oil leak and a shudder at low speeds. The oil leak was fixed but the mechanic couldn't feel the shudder. I took it home and the shudder became more pronounced, the steering wheel shakes and then a popping noise started from the front left wheel area when making a hard left turn, the popping became a thumping and was then accompanied by a dangerous grabbing when correcting the left turn that almost pulled the car into the right lane. A return to the mechanic found another oil leak and " Found the mount to LF Lower control arm had been bent allowing it to contact the arm - Bent the mount back as much as pos. - noise seems to have gone away." After 24 hours the popping and grinding gradually returned. I would like to know what the problem is, what to tell the mechanic, and what to expect. Any info would be great.
  • seemomgoseemomgo Member Posts: 27
    My 92 Sentra with 89K miles developed an oil leak about a year ago. The leak started out small as a few drops on the driveway. Lately, I have noticed the leak has gotten worse. Has anyone had a similar problem? Could it be the main seals or may be the oil pan gasket? Any insight, including cost of repair, is greatly appreciated.
  • rosed5rosed5 Member Posts: 2
    $800 later and two trips to the dealer I have my leaks (hopefully) under control. Mine were the front and rear seals and when it leaked it was bad. It started with one, then another so if you have one and plan to fix it I would have them look into checking the others and considering cutting down on labor costs. Two seals at once is cheaper than two separate trips. Good luck - mine has an extended warrantee, but I'm still thumping and shuddering - see Message 11.
  • seemomgoseemomgo Member Posts: 27
    Thanks for the info...I was hoping it wouldn't be the seals. I guess a trip to the dealer or mechanic is in order. This car has served me well, but I must admit I'm a bit disappointed since I only have 89K and have taken excellent care of the car.

    Good luck with your thumping and shuddering!
  • jcu1886jcu1886 Member Posts: 39
    A question for those more knowledgeable than I about cars. My Sentra SE (5 sp., PP, 477 miles) suddenly has remotes that don't work for the doors or trunk, or the horn. Also, the inside button to simultaneously unlock and lock all four doors does not work. Could this be a question of a blown fuse?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Sure, a good guess, especially if you could determine that they were all on the same fused circuit.
  • carlospriacarlospria Member Posts: 1
    hi i have a 93 sentra that sounds like diesel
    i took it to the mechanic and told me it was the timing chain
    he changed it and still the diessel sound
    anybody has any idea before i go again
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    gets louder when you step on the gas it's bearings. If it only occurrs on startup and goes away it could be piston slap which is normal on some cars. Also it could be that your filter has a bad anti-drainback valve (noise goes away in 5 seconds)
  • jcu1886jcu1886 Member Posts: 39
    It indeed was a blown fuse that caused the problem (cf. message #15). Apparently the interior lights, all-door lock and remotes are on the same circuit.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well, don't forget to get your money back for the bad diagnosis of your problem!

    You know, all you have to do is put a stethoscope or screwdriver against the timing case cover and it'll about blow your ears out....why did this guy miss this?

    Bearing noises usually show up only under load, and besides your car wouldn't go very far with very loud bearing noises.

    You may have a bad camshaft and/or lifters.

    Next time, go to someone who doesn't guess with your checkbook.
  • bchu1bchu1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 95 Nissan Sentra 1.6 liter. The car was running great at 80K miles till I decided to give it a tune up. I replaced oil and oil filter. I replaced the air filter, 4 platinum spark plugs and the fuel filter. These are not Nissan genuine parts. Now I have a "check engine" light on the panel. Nissan owner manual says the car has some emission problem if the "engine check" light is on. Does any one out there know what part I replaced that could contribute to this problem.
    Thank you
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the CEL is on, there's at least one stored diagnostic trouble code in the engine control module.

    Some later '95's are OBD-II compliant, require a scan tool to retrieve stored trouble codes, and have a data link connector under the dash like the one shown here:

    Earlier model trouble codes are accessed like this:
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Glad I didn't make more of a fuss over the remanufactured Sentra Trans. It works really well and I have confidence that it will go the distance.

    My Corsica noise in reverse (auto-trans) also is back to perfect health. Engine mount replaced. BTW what life can I expect out of the auto trans in a '92 Corsica V-6. Fluid has been changed 3 times and the vehicle has 126K. Its had Mobil 1 ATF in since 70K, for what its worth.

    Heater hoses not leaking, brake cyl-not replaced, just seal kit-no leaks. Life is good-thanks for the many words of wisdom.

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Glad to hear the Sentra's happy. Ya gotta love it when things work out, huh? :-)
    The 3T40 (TH125) transaxles are pretty reliable units. About the only thing they like to do is bu**er up the converter clutch solenoid. Even that's not a really big issue, pretty simple replacement once you get the end cover off. You'll invent a few new words if the heater hose/tube starts leaking, though. LOL
  • gastonf75gastonf75 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Nissan Sentry it has been a great car. Two months ago the horn and the cruise control stop working.
    I know the horn has a solenoid, but I am not sure what is going on with the cruise control. The turn on light comes
    on but when I press set it the cruise light does not come on and the cruise does not set. If anybody has any advice
    let me know. Also anybody knows were to get a horn solenoid, other that from the Nissan people.

    My battery was drained two days ago, I recharge it and it works fine. But now the Air bag light blinks all the time.
    Any suggestions
  • srw3srw3 Member Posts: 2
    This is a '94 Nissan Sentra w/120,000 miles. The CEL never lights during around town driving. It only lights on highway cruising between 60 - 67 mph. After several minutes of maintaining a steady speed in that range, the CEL lights. By giving it some extra gas, it then goes out. There is no change in performance when the CEL is lit. I've taken it to my mechanic but he says that he can't trace it until the CEL stays on. In the meantime, it might light 6 times during a 40 mile drive. Has anyone encountered this before & if so, where is the best place to look for the cause of this?

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start by having your mechanic read this. There may be a stored diagnostic trouble code in the ECM:
  • Blong1Blong1 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 93 Nissan Sentra and recently the blower motor only works on the # 4 setting, nothing on 1-3 any thoughts on what could be causing this? Any help is appreciated
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The blower resistor is probably burned out. Current to the motor goes through the resistor block on all the lower speeds, but directly through a relay on high speed.
  • boboleibobolei Member Posts: 1
    It just a test.
  • srw3srw3 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. The trouble codes did help. It was a clogged hose running between the EGR valve and emission reservoir. Very minor all in all.
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