my 97 ford ranger has a rough idle more noticable when engine is cold. I had IAC module changed(Idle Air Control). Changed air filter, plugs, and fuel filter. Still not corrected. Had to dealers and independent mechanic. No one can seem to pin point. Any suggestions. My ranger has only 43k miles, 4x4, 4.0L v6 auto
I would make sure there is not a VACUUM leak somewhere, especially in the intake tract. Check ALL joints and hoses for leaks. This can be a hassle, but I had a throttle body leak in a Nissan motor that I solved (by trial and error) by re-torquing the bolts (very carefully !!!) that hold the throttle body assmbly onto the cast intake plenum. I had the same rough idle for over a year !! To this day (with 167 000 miles) it runs very smooth.
Service Bulletin Number: 12174 Bulletin Sequence Number: 132 Date of Bulletin: 9811 NHTSA Item Number: SB613224 Make: FORD TRUCK Model: RANGER Year: 1997 Component: ENGINE Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A HARD START/LONG CRANK, COLD START STALL, COLD ROUGH IDLE CONCERN. *MJS
You should investigate with the dealer and go through the list of TSB's with them since there are several TSB's related to rough noises from the engine for 1998 (you can check them out at www.nhsta.org). The TSB I'm posting could be the one for you but again there were a bunch...just a matter of finding which one it is.
Very interesting. I am satrting to conclude that Ford's "dirty little Ranger secret" is driveshaft vibration problems !! All of the early 01 Rangers (4.0) that I looked at had the steel shafts (all rusted to heck in Ford's typical "rust under the Ranger" fashion !! [Something I wish Ford would fix is the huge amount of ugly rust on all the steel drivetrain and suspension members under the Ranger...very ugly.] Aluminum shaft !! Very interesting ! Maybe Ford knows something that "we don't", eh ?? I wonder if the alloy job would fit my older 2000 model, of course with a different 4.0 motor ?? Maybe that would help solve the vibes. Of course, they won't recall them; they will let owners battle to get what is already owed to them. They will be forced to go back to the dealer 7 or 8 times to get a replacement shaft. {A joke: "Get the shaft to get the shaft"...get it !!??} But, I am ready to unload my Ford and don't care anymore anyways. I hope you get many enjoyable miles out of you truck !
frey44, you are right there. My 01 was built 11/00. I bought it 4/30/01 in Jax FL with 7 miles showing. It had been sitting on the back lot and not touched in months. Battery was stone dead. I was surprised at all the rust underneath. Solved it with 3 cans of spray on undercoat from Walmart $2.93ea. I have not experienced any vibrations. Have however had two trips to the dealer for binding/chattering window. The got silicone grease all over the weather stripping & it gets all over the window. Oil driped out the bottom of both doors. Really sloppy work. Also had one head light replaced (warranty) as the reflector started to discolor. Both are doing it now, so will get new ones before warranty expires. I had a 90 2.3L with 167K on it. Ran, looked great. I'm almost sorry I sold it. I'm still learning to like the 01 4.0. I will keep it for a while anyway. When I look at the GMC pages it really scares me. Looks like Trundras have their share of troubles as well. Good luck with yours as well.
As this one Dealer here in Louisiana told me. After the 36,000/3 year waranty FORD has meet all obligations. (Meaning) F.U. Through my experience's with my Ranger and Taurus. I will never concider buying another Ford Product. My past experience's and troubles come back to the people whom are repairing our vechicle's have shown me poor craftmenship. Either they are simply retarded, or most of my experiences with them are intentional. With all this I am choosing to buy from another auto maker. With my past problems with the service dept, Ford Motor Co them same problems was never dealt with nor corrected. As a result they loose me. Loosing me isnt gonna hurt them. But its silly that ford hires a bunch of retards to work on them FOUND ON ROAD DEAD PRODUCT OF THEIRS.
I purchased a 2001 XLT, supercab 4.0L, 5 speed manual, 4x4 in April. I have had nothing but problems with it! For starters, I ordered the truck from the factory, when it arrived there was a laundry list of problems. The passenger side door is hard to open with the outside handle, the power window "chatters" on the way down, there is marks on the inside of the instrument cluster glass, the carpet in the rear seat is bunched up, the drivers side view mirror vibrates at anything over 45mph, worse yet, when I checked my air cleaner for the first time, I found 2 cap screws inside the housing. But yet it still gets worse! The clutch is about ready to go and I only have 9000 miles on it! I have been to 4 different dealers all tell me that there is no adjustment for the hydraulic clutch! The friction point to disengage the clutch is about 1/2" into the pedal. In 1st or 2nd gear, you can slip the clutch with the brakes! But no dealer will even drive it. There is excessive play in the driveline that makes a rather loud and annoying clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd. After all this, I have decided I no longer want this vehicle and am looking at stepping up to a F150. The best trade in offer I can get is $15000! Remember, the truck is only 5 months old with 9K. Sticker is $23000. Maybe ford needs to consider making there own power train rather than Mazda. I am a long time ford owner and have been more than satisfied with my previous vehicles. If ford keeps building trucks this way, they will surely loose the "#1 for 20 years" Any advice?
I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to get 2 child seats into my '95 Ranger extended cab. I have a 3 year old and a 1 year old. One child seat fits in the passenger seat (after disabling the air bag) but I'm not sure if there is a place for the second seat. Has anyone heard of a way to do this? Thank you.
<<Maybe ford needs to consider making there own power train rather than Mazda.>> ....Wiat a minute !! FORD DOES make their Ranger powertrain !!
Also, Ford makes MAZDA'S trucks !! (The Mazda PU is just a Ranger in drag...) You've got it backwards, friend ! Also, I am amused that you would even consider another Ford truck after having had those quality problems !! What is your logic ?????? Sorry to hear you're having ranger troubles; I am too, and am trying to sell a very clean 2000 model. I will get KILLED on the depreciation !! Good luck !!
Maybe I am wrong about the other powertrains but I know for sure that Mazda manufactures the 4.0L engine and the 5 speed manual transmission out of Mexico. As for my logic for another ford truck, well, I plan on stepping up to a F-150 which I have owned before and was very happy with. Good luck with your sale, the dealers have tried to put me over the barrel on trade in. 15K for the truck that stickers at 23.5K Ahh well.
My Ranger motor is a 4.0 pushrod; I think it is German because the month of maufacture is written in German on the valve cover (I love this motor, actually; it's just a shame the darn truck shakes so much). So, thanks for informing me about the Mexican made motors; I didn't know that. Are you getting a 2x4 F 150 with LS rearend ? Does Ford sell that LS with a high (numerically low) gearing ? I am planning on a Tundra, but may be forced to buy an F 150 if the Toyota man doesn't give me enough on a trade. Do you recommend the small 4.7 V8 in the Ford ? (I assume that is the old 302 block ???). How have the F 150 auto trannies been holding up ? What kind of mileage can you get in a 2x4 F 150 small V8 with automatic ?
My previous 150 had the 4.2L V-6, I was by all means pleased, it got around 22mpg city with a 2 wheel drive. I did have the manual transmission. If you are considering the v8 opt for the larger (5.4) as it is overflowing with power and really screams when you punch it. I do think you will be happy with the v6 as long as you stay with the 4x2. As for spavlas, I am not saying that all rangers are bad, I really liked this truck, I maybe just got a bad one. Make sure you take yours on a 30min test drive to really give it a workout. I think you will be happy with it. All things mechanical are bound to have problems. My biggest upset is the fact that I cant find a dealer to service the thing without feeding me bull. If you are looking for a sporty truck, check out the 2002 FX2 it has the 4.0L, manual transmission, some upgrades in the suspension along with a one of a kind interior. Take a look.
I don't see any Mexico made Rangers and I'm pretty positive that not since the courrier has there been a Mazda motor in a Ford pick up. (if you name the diesel Ranger back in the 80's I'll give you a cookie for being more knowledgeable than you're letting on)
Good General Rule to follow: Give it a test drive before you buy. 2001 Rangers are so popular that they were the 4th best selling vehicle in the United states, April 2001, so I don't think you should take all above accounts as gospel. As with every mass produced product, some are just destined to be names "Christine", so take it for a good test drive before purchase and make sure the radio doesn't turn itself on.
Also remember that every vehicle is affected by it's owner's driving habits and maintenance conditions.
So I thought these were related...they're not. I went out and picked up a 'door ajar' switch from the local dealer. Since they are common left to right I figured no big deal for $9. Now the dumb dome light is fixed, but my alarm still goes off randomly every time I use the lock button from the remote. If I manually lock the truck, obviously there are no problems. I picked up a Haynes yesterday and there's not one mention of the 'Anti-Theft' system anywhere...even in the wiring schematics.
I don't really mind manually locking the truck, but its kind of silly to have to do that. Anyone had this problem or know if the fix? Anyone know where the 'Disarm Switch' is?
I am going to be putting my Ranger up for sale within the next week so I figured I'd pick your collective brains first before taking it for the $80/hour dealer service.
A good place to start is the ground on the wiring harness. It might be making connection most of the time but I've seen electrical systems do weird things with a bad ground. Use that manual you just bought to find where the main wiring harness grounds. Check to make sure that connection is clean and secure, take a quick look at the wires to make sure none are corroded through. Also, call a local dealer that isn't the one you usually take your truck to. Ask for the service manager and pick his/her brains, tell them that you just had some service done out of town, you might be able to get some more info from them without taking your truck in. As a long shot, reset the electrical system, it might help. Turn the power off on all the accessory in the cab, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and then power back up. Take your truck for a drive around the block a few times to reset the engine sensors. Like I said, it's a long shot, but hey, its free. Good luck!
I recently installed a pair of PIAA Platinum super white bulbs in my 2k1 Ranger. They are advertised as same watage/temp as stock. Apparently NOT-SO. Both of the reflectors in my headlights started to discolor. They got a blue like fog on them. I believe the bulbs are too hot for the plastic headlight reflector. I took them out and put the originals back. ($75 mistake). Oh well live & learn.
Yeah and honestly I have yet to see information that such upgrades produce better results than the stock bulbs with stock lenses.
As many may not know, the pattern and distribution of the light is often the heavyweight in determining the visibility you have when driving. Generally speaking, the wattage of the bulb can be insignificant when it comes to the technology behind the lense.
Ok, if you have read my previous complaints on my lemon, I mean truck, you'll know where I'm coming from. My clutch now shakes when starting in first gear, now, I am well aware of how to drive a stick, and no, I don't ride the clutch. The truck has less than 10k miles. Any ideas? I am taking it to a service department next week, I am going to leave it there and refuse to take it back until something is fixed. Any tips you can give me of something like this has happened to you? Thanks!! P.S. even with the bad clutch, I can still blow the doors off the "Extreme" S-10, just thought you ford fans would appreciate that.
I guess the Extreme s-10 has the 4.3l right? I believe that's been around a while, and is probably outdated. While the new 4.0l SOHC v6 for Ranger... and a stick... well ...
Thanks to the folks here for all the info and TSB data on the driveline clunking problem. Armed with the TSB and 8 pages of clipped discussions I went to the local Ford dealer with my 98 Ranger 4x4 Supercab with 46,000 miles. After much debate, they agreed to replace my driveline with the aluminum model at no cost. Thanks to everyone who frequents this site for your help.
The center armrest/console is now hanging to one side and getting looser with time. As far as I can tell, one broken bolt in the bracing mechanism is to blame. I know this is a fairly common problem, and the dealer quoted me almost 300 dollars for repairs, saying the whole thing had to be replaced. I see no point in spending that much on an OEM interior part, especially when I could get lots of nice aftermarket ones for about the same or less. The design of it seems junky anyway, doesn't seem securely enough attached to the seat to bear that much weight.
Anybody found a cheaper fix? And if not, can anyone point me to where I could get a good deal on an aftermarket console that would fold up like this one when not in use?
I drive a 98 Ford Ranger 3.0L with manual transmission When driven in city traffic for about 15 minutes, it starts to exhibit this behavior. When the clutch is engaged while stopping, the engine RPM jumps to 3000. When the clutch is released, the RPM drops back to a normal level. This continues until I turn the engine off and re start it. After re starting the engine, it's good for another 30 minutes or go before the excessive high rpm re occurs. Obviously 3000 RPM without a load is not a good thing for the engine. I've taken this problem up with my Dealers Service Mgr without success. He claims that the Ford Motor Company has no fix and there is nothing that can be done about it. There's a TSB which refers to this problem and the Service Manager is hiding behind that. Just curious, have any other Ford Ranger owners experienced this kind of problem?
Well, I want to thank all of you for your help with my clutch. I think I have it fixed for good this time. I am trading it and taking delivery of a 01 F150 tonight. With any kind of luck I wont have any problems and I can erite all kinds of good things on here. Thanks again, and keep on truckin'
What engine do you have in your 98 Ranger ?? Does it have a 5 speed auto ? I have considered what an aluminum drievshaft might do for my vibrating 2000 4.0 V6 4x4 XLT model. Does the aluminum shaft fit ANY long wheelbase Ranger model ? Do you happen to know the part number ? Also, did that relpacement include a new splined slip-joint shaft (and rubber boot) coming out of the tranny ?
My aluminum Transmission has be over hauled 2 times. First time was about 10k, and the second time was about 28k. I dont know if this to be true or not but I was told they had alot of TBS problems out of the 1998 model Rangers and they also discontinued the type of transmission we have in these 98 models. Doe anyone here know about this. Is there any f150 owners here that know about the TBS on the new f150.
Probably was an automatic? Is there a part or identification number you could include to help the rest of us? I had to replace my 93 transmission once at around 122,000 Miles. If you have a manual, make sure you don't ride the clutch and fully disengage the drivetrain before shifting. Also no eats up manual's like power shifting and improper RPM engagement.
If you do have an automatic I really recommend everyone do their yearly maintenance, otherwise known as a transmission filter replacement. That puts new fluid in and greatly extends the life of any automatic.
Of course the 5 speed manual is much more tried and true, so that's what my next truck will have. Hopefully the new 5 speed automatic can give it a run for it's money.
I have heard from a few people that Ford Ranger's with the 3.0 litre V6 ping. I have a 2001 REG. CAB EDGE with the V6. It only has 5300 km's on it. It seems to be running great, but it's to early to tell I guess. Also has anyone heard of any other serious problems with the EDGE? I just got my truck in August and so far I notice there is a huge difference compared my 94 Ranger with the 2.3LTR 4 Cylinder.
The pinging is more or less the engine combustion is strained under heavy output. This could be from timing advancement issues under acceleration, uphill and/or under load, and/or low octane rated gasoline. Basically the higher the octane, the longer or slower it will burn, which produces more push or power. The 3.0l is a fairly small engine, with low compression and piston bore/stroke, which is designed for economical use. So those with a heavier foot or heavier load will definitely be working the engine to it's fullest. I'm no expert on 3.0l's, but these generalizations should help you get the idea.
With a regular cab, and a 2001 model, you will most likely never encounter any pinging at all. And if you do, it will be very slight, and only when going up a steep hill and/or a heavy payload. Where downshifting or shifting out of overdrive doesn't help, an upgrade in gas octane will help. Like all TSB's, it is just something to be aware of, and to help in case of any problems with your vehicle or dealership service.
My '96 Ranger Supercab with 4.0 automatic has had at lease 4 different oil plugs. All start leaking about every 2k miles. I have talked to several Ford mechanics who have no answer. I have had the regular type with the "O" ring and a flat type with a soft metal washer. When I check the leak, I can easily turn the plug 1/3 round. I have never had this problem before on any other car and I have been changing my own oil from over 50 years. I need help. BTW - two mechanics thought the leak was the main seal as the oil from the plug blows back to the seal area. I have proved it is the plug by cleaning and watching the drips.
eharri3 has probably hit on it. Someone overtightened the oil plug and has slightly stripped the threads---that's way it keeps working loose. Go to an auto parts store and get an oversize oil plug that is made just for this problem. It will turn in hard the first time as it's cutting new threads but should seal up just fine.
My 1994 Ranger (2.3l 4cyl manual) has been with my mechanic for over a week. He replaced the clutch with an aftermarket product, and could not get it to work. It will not "bleed out". He removed that clutch and ordered a new one from the Ford dealer - the LEGIT part -, replaced it, and it still will not work. They can't get this to bleed out either. HELP!!!!
Also try putting some teflon tape on the threads, if the oversize plug doesn't work. If push comes to shove, a little silicon will stop it. But you'll have to reapply it every oil change.
My Ford Ranger (see subject for specs) has a considerable change in engine noise under load. I would describe it as a fast 'chatter'. It usually happens at modestly higher RPM ranges when going up a hill, but also will happen on the flats when the vehicle is heavy. I did try adding a bottle of octane boost, but the 'chatter' was still present. It doesn't sound like a 'knock' or 'ping' anyway. Sounds more like a noisy valve train.
This sound may be normal, so I thought I would ask other owners for their opinion.
I think the noise you're hearing is what I heard test driving a 2002 4.0; I think it is valve gear noises. This engine is "busy" sounding. Instead of knocking and rapping like my pushrod 4.0, it clatters, whirs and rattles. I think it is all normal and you will have to get used to it. I wouldn't worry about it. I have heard 4.0 pushrod motors "knock" like they had a bad bearing for 150 000 miles !! With no trouble !! All engines create noise. Your 4.0 won't come apart. It is a fine, strong motor, one of the best for a small truck. In fact, it is probably all around the best small V6 out there for a truck or SUV, one of Ford's "crown jewels". (An equal to this Ford motor is the NISSAN Pathfinder V6 motor: Awesome. And much quieter).
I have the same engine/trans/4dr/xlt. You may be hearing a timing chain. This is the 4.0 that was optional in the 97 Explorer. The SOHV cams are chain driven. there is a chain from the crankshaft to a shaft where the cam usually goes and a chain off that shaft on each end to the cams on each head. From the cutaway it looks like there are three chains in the engine. I've seen on other sites this is a know source of noise. I have 8800 miles on mine and like it. Try www.therangerstation or the Ranger site listed on Blueovalnews.com
have a 2001 ranger 4.0 4x4 off-road with auto. as well. i have no noise at all. what oil are you using? i use havoline 5W-30 since first change and motorcraft filters. AND i had a '97 explorer sport 4x4 with the SOHC 4.0. it did have engine noise and it had the ford recall repair done on it. this new ranger engine is supposed to be a little different as in valve and cam designs. it's supposed to be improved a little, how i dont know. but i usually always get 20 mpg with my oil and filter setup. i have 7000 miles, and its almost always in 4x4 doing something. these trucks climb like a mountain goat (w/locking diff.) and a set of BFG a/t 265/70-16's. love it.
Just finished replacing the 3 grade 8 bolts that hold the steering box to the left front frame rail. The truck is a '96 2wd with the 4 cylinder and it's driven by my daughter-in-law who is a pretty easy driver. The reason I replaced them is that 2 had broken (one some time ago by the looks of the piece left in the steering box) and one as it was being backed out of a parking spot. The 3rd bolt stretched and bent a little (really sloppy steering and wouldn't hardly turn right) but my son nursed it to my garage.
Has anyone else had this happen? It could have caused a bad accident if it had happened at speed after hitting a bump.
I would go first with the Teflon white tape, give it a couple of wraps. Also, along the rim of the plug, put some Permatex gasket sealer, #2, maybe 1/8th inch deep. The object is to put the gasket seal on the mating surfaces of the plug and bottom of the oil sump.
You have to really drain the oil fully and clean the mating surface before you do that, get it real clean.
I would try this first before I put a new oversized plug in. On the next change you have to scrape the old gakset sealer and tape, but it should work.
I own 2000 Ranger xlt 4x4 4.0 engine auto with a 7'bed. I am told there is no replacement driveshaft for this model truck,just for regular cabs and extended or supercabs. I seem to have the same problem as these trucks and ford seems to neglect this model.Has anyone with this type of truck had the driveshaft replaced please let me know.
Do you guys have the copper washers that you use with your drain plugs? That's what my truck uses, and it never leaks any oil out from the plug area. Give that a try. Also, when you use teflon tape on the threads, you don't worry about the tape coming off and getting into the oil?
jrush3--->I think a user here named Frey has that same vehicle. Either '00 or '01, but he had a vibration problem at highway speeds. It has to be the related to the driveshaft or axle splines. Even though your dealership says there is no replacement driveshaft, that could me a new product or fix to replace it. More than likely your driveshaft is either A. Has out of phase U-Joints, or B. Improper weight balancing, or Both. See if he comes back and replies, or check out the TSB's for some help on dealing with your dealership.
Pluto--->Crush washers work fine, but need to be replaced every time you do an oil change. I know the older Rangers don't come with one. Teflon won't be a problem if you know what you're doing. I don't have a leak, so a normal drain plug works fine with no fixers. Also helps if you cough up the $1.25 every year or so and just buy a new one. But as discussed above, the most likely reason for this oil leak to occur is improper tightening of the drain plug.
Comments
My 01 (built 11/00) 4.0L, 5spd auto, supercab has a Large aluminum drive shaft.
Service Bulletin Number: 12174
Bulletin Sequence Number: 132
Date of Bulletin: 9811
NHTSA Item Number: SB613224
Make: FORD TRUCK
Model: RANGER
Year: 1997
Component: ENGINE
Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A HARD START/LONG CRANK, COLD START STALL, COLD ROUGH IDLE CONCERN. *MJS
You should investigate with the dealer and go through the list of TSB's with them since there are several TSB's related to rough noises from the engine for 1998 (you can check them out at www.nhsta.org). The TSB I'm posting could be the one for you but again there were a bunch...just a matter of finding which one it is.
Good Luck,
John
you are right there. My 01 was built 11/00. I bought it 4/30/01 in Jax FL with 7 miles showing. It had been sitting on the back lot and not touched in months. Battery was stone dead. I was surprised at all the rust underneath. Solved it with 3 cans of spray on undercoat from Walmart $2.93ea. I have not experienced any vibrations. Have however had two trips to the dealer for binding/chattering window. The got silicone grease all over the weather stripping & it gets all over the window. Oil driped out the bottom of both doors. Really sloppy work. Also had one head light replaced (warranty) as the reflector started to discolor. Both are doing it now, so will get new ones before warranty expires. I had a 90 2.3L with 167K on it. Ran, looked great. I'm almost sorry I sold it. I'm still learning to like the 01 4.0. I will keep it for a while anyway. When I look at the GMC pages it really scares me. Looks like Trundras have their share of troubles as well. Good luck with yours as well.
Through my experience's with my Ranger and Taurus. I will never concider buying another Ford Product.
My past experience's and troubles come back to the people whom are repairing our vechicle's have shown me poor craftmenship. Either they are simply retarded, or most of my experiences with them are intentional.
With all this I am choosing to buy from another auto maker. With my past problems with the service dept, Ford Motor Co them same problems was never dealt with nor corrected. As a result they loose me. Loosing me isnt gonna hurt them. But its silly that ford hires a bunch of retards to work on them FOUND ON ROAD DEAD PRODUCT OF THEIRS.
Thank you.
Also, Ford makes MAZDA'S trucks !! (The Mazda PU is just a Ranger in drag...) You've got it backwards, friend ! Also, I am amused that you would even consider another Ford truck after having had those quality problems !! What is your logic ?????? Sorry to hear you're having ranger troubles; I am too, and am trying to sell a very clean 2000 model. I will get KILLED on the depreciation !!
Good luck !!
http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=2288
F 150 with LS rearend ? Does Ford sell that LS with a high (numerically low) gearing ? I am planning on a Tundra, but may be forced to buy an F 150 if the Toyota man doesn't give me enough on a trade. Do you recommend the small 4.7 V8 in the Ford ? (I assume that is the old 302 block ???). How have the F 150 auto trannies been holding up ? What kind of mileage can you get in a 2x4 F 150 small V8 with automatic ?
Here's mine:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2001_ranger.html
I don't see any Mexico made Rangers and I'm pretty positive that not since the courrier has there been a Mazda motor in a Ford pick up. (if you name the diesel Ranger back in the 80's I'll give you a cookie for being more knowledgeable than you're letting on)
Also remember that every vehicle is affected by it's owner's driving habits and maintenance conditions.
I don't really mind manually locking the truck, but its kind of silly to have to do that. Anyone had this problem or know if the fix? Anyone know where the 'Disarm Switch' is?
I am going to be putting my Ranger up for sale within the next week so I figured I'd pick your collective brains first before taking it for the $80/hour dealer service.
Its a 97 STX Ext Cab with the 4.0L
Thanks.
As many may not know, the pattern and distribution of the light is often the heavyweight in determining the visibility you have when driving. Generally speaking, the wattage of the bulb can be insignificant when it comes to the technology behind the lense.
John
Anybody found a cheaper fix? And if not, can anyone point me to where I could get a good deal on an aftermarket console that would fold up like this one when not in use?
Just curious, have any other Ford Ranger owners experienced this kind of problem?
I have considered what an aluminum drievshaft might do for my vibrating 2000 4.0 V6 4x4 XLT model. Does the aluminum shaft fit ANY long wheelbase Ranger model ? Do you happen to know the part number ? Also, did that relpacement include a new splined slip-joint shaft (and rubber boot) coming out of the tranny ?
I dont know if this to be true or not but I was told they had alot of TBS problems out of the 1998 model Rangers and they also discontinued the type of transmission we have in these 98 models. Doe anyone here know about this. Is there any f150 owners here that know about the TBS on the new f150.
If you do have an automatic I really recommend everyone do their yearly maintenance, otherwise known as a transmission filter replacement. That puts new fluid in and greatly extends the life of any automatic.
Of course the 5 speed manual is much more tried and true, so that's what my next truck will have. Hopefully the new 5 speed automatic can give it a run for it's money.
With a regular cab, and a 2001 model, you will most likely never encounter any pinging at all. And if you do, it will be very slight, and only when going up a steep hill and/or a heavy payload. Where downshifting or shifting out of overdrive doesn't help, an upgrade in gas octane will help. Like all TSB's, it is just something to be aware of, and to help in case of any problems with your vehicle or dealership service.
This sound may be normal, so I thought I would ask other owners for their opinion.
I have the same engine/trans/4dr/xlt. You may be hearing a timing chain. This is the 4.0 that was optional in the 97 Explorer. The SOHV cams are chain driven. there is a chain from the crankshaft to a shaft where the cam usually goes and a chain off that shaft on each end to the cams on each head. From the cutaway it looks like there are three chains in the engine. I've seen on other sites this is a know source of noise. I have 8800 miles on mine and like it. Try www.therangerstation or the Ranger site listed on Blueovalnews.com
Has anyone else had this happen? It could have caused a bad accident if it had happened at speed after hitting a bump.
You have to really drain the oil fully and clean the mating surface before you do that, get it real clean.
I would try this first before I put a new oversized plug in. On the next change you have to scrape the old gakset sealer and tape, but it should work.
Pluto--->Crush washers work fine, but need to be replaced every time you do an oil change. I know the older Rangers don't come with one. Teflon won't be a problem if you know what you're doing. I don't have a leak, so a normal drain plug works fine with no fixers. Also helps if you cough up the $1.25 every year or so and just buy a new one. But as discussed above, the most likely reason for this oil leak to occur is improper tightening of the drain plug.