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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've got a 94. This does not seem to be a common problem.

    If the sender has failed, it's inside the tank, which will have to be dropped.

    If I dropped the tank, I probably would also replace the fuel pump that is also in there. This 94 is now at least 11 years old....

    (The sender and fuel pump may be one assembly, which means you've got to replace both.)
  • Yeah, I had the same problem with a 91 ranger. And yes you have to replace the entire hanger assempbly.

    Your best bet is to simply take all the bolts out of the bed, and move the bed back a little. No need to undo the tail lights, you wont move it that far. In all it should take an hour or so.

    Now dont listen to anyone that says its easier to just drop the tank, no its not. I have done it both ways, to drop the tank you have to drain it, then lay flat on your back, get a mouthful of mud and rust, then somehow lift the tank back up by your self. Just move the bed, and spend more time on something else, plus you can test your pump before you put the bed back incause somethign doesn't work.
  • I'm debating whether to go with a Ford extended warranty and would appreciate any opinions. I have a 2003 Ranger XLT, 3.0, 2wd, auto, limited slip, standard cab, tilt/cruise, short bed. My warranty expires March 2006. I have around 11k miles on the truck, bought new. I was looking at the 7yr/75k extracare coverage. Should run around $1100-1200. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  • 2vs2vs Posts: 6
    Hey, thanks for the replies. Wish this was an easy solution but the sliding of the bed sounds better than removing the tank. Sounds like a job for next spring.
  • cday1cday1 Posts: 1
    I spent $2000 repairing my transmission at 50,000 miles. I'm now at 70,000 miles and it needs more transmission work !
    No wonder Ford doean't provide a drivetrain warranty as good as Toyota
  • From what I understand this engine is pretty bad on fuel mileage. Does any one else have this problem, and has anyone got any solutions to help improve the mileage. I have already changed the plugs and air filter. Suggestions would be great.
  • I just recently bought a 2000 ranger 4.0L V6. It doesn't seen to have much power too it. It goes,but i can get the pedal all the way door and she is slow to pick up. any others have this problem and any way to fix it?
  • hello there, anyone else have poor gas mileage on the 2000 Ranger 4.0L V6. Any ideas or tricks to get her a lot better. I have already changed the plugs and filter.
  • Help me!! My 1994 Ford Ranger's tail lights do not come on when the lights are turned on. The brake lights work, so do the directional lights, but the lights themselves do not come on. Got a "five day" tag from jerk police, so need help soon. What could it be??? :confuse:
  • I had the same thing happen to me. Gas got really low one time, then when I filled it up, the gauge didn't work. Had to drop the tank and replace float. The gas had rotted a hole into the float and filled the float up with gas, so it didn't work.
  • First check your fuses. More than likely though it's your headlight switch. Easy change out, you can get them easily aftermarket.
  • I just purchased a 97 Ranger for my daughter and I am working on the brake system to bring it up to teenager requirements. My problem is the dirt and water shields on the front rotors are gone , completely rusted away. I have tried every salvage yard within 50 miles to no avail. Does anyone know of aftermarket shields that may be available. Ford wants 63 bucks apiece.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I had this problem and it turned out to be the distributor cap had a crack in it. Your truck may have ignition coils which could be the problem. Moisture is affecting some portion of your electrical starting system. When the truck is warm, that moisture has dissipated.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I had a similar problem with my 97 Ranger. I cleaned the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner and the power came back. It has been about six months and now it has started doing it again. I cleaned the sensor about two weeks ago and the problem is presenting itself again. I think I am going to replace the MAF sensor completely. Try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if it helps.
  • This truck shudders in the rear when the brakes are applied. Replaced both rear pads and hardware this summer. Was told by techs that the wheel cylinders where sticking and needed replaced. Did that. Still a real bad shudder in the rear when braking. Could it be the rear differential? Wheel bearings? :confuse: Suggestions anyone?
  • You should be getting 16mpg city and 22mpg highway at 55 mph. Higher highway speeds will reduce your mpg. There is TWICE the wind resistance on the front of the truck at 70 mph than at 50 mph.If you are close to 16/22mpg, well, that's the way it is with the ranger 4.0. (The ranger is a rolling brick. The most aerodynamic pick-up truck sold in the USA today is the Dodge Dakota. But the Dakota is bigger and heavier and its gas mileage isn't great either.)-----Check your tire pressures, remove any excess "junk" you are carrying around in the bed or behind the seat, make sure your brakes are not hanging up and the parking brake is fully releasing,in the summer leave the sliding rear window open if you have one,having a tonneau cover helps to increase mpg, and close that tailgate. There is a common erroneous misconception that driving with the tailgate open results in better gas mileage when in fact an open tailgate reduces gas mileage. The air flow around a moving pick-up at the tailgate position is from the back to the front, resulting in higher air pressure on the back of the tailgate and lower air pressure on the inside of the tailgate which creates a state advantageous to better fuel mileage. (That is why pick-up truck manufacturers do not produce tailgates with grilles in them). Winter gasoline formulations are now being sold which result in poorer gas mileage than "summer" gas.The grease throughout the truck,(wheel bearings etc.)gets thicker in the winter and results in more rolling resistance. The already thick differential oil gets thicker in the winter.---- You didn't state what mileage you are getting, but 16/22 should be about right.
  • herehere Posts: 2
    iv got a 94 Ranger 4x4 that has a 4.0 engine with auto trans. i have been driving it every day and it has started fine! the other day i took my son to a restraint, and when i came out to go home, it will only crank over, but not start! :mad:
    Anyone had this problem before, or have any suggestion on what to check?
  • It sounds like you need new tail lite bulbs
  • Yes I had a similar problem. Mine started once then died. Then it wouldn't start. Check your vacuum lines near the valve cover on the drivers side. There is a coupling that several vacuum lines connect to. One fitting does not have an actual vacuum line. Instead it has a rubber "boot" that covers the fitting. Something caused mine to blow off(still don't know what) in which I put it back on and the engine started and ran fine. If thats not the problem look to see if you're getting spark and/or fuel.
  • I got my 4x4 light to stop flashing. It was just a blown fuse, What a relief. Now back to just the high idle. I wonder if it is possible that I purchased a bad idle air control valve from autozone and that is really my problem. If that is the case, I sure have had a lot of loss time and money looking for the problem elsewhere.
  • I bought a 98 Ford Ranger with/ 70,000 miles on it about a week ago. It passed California smog test and everything seems to be fine until after I took it for an oil change two days ago. Now every time it starts up, excessive white smoke comes out from exhaust pipe, and it smells awful. I have also noticed some oil deposit in the exhaust pipe. Can anyone give me some suggestion on what's the problem? I also hear running water sound under the hood after engine stops. Is this normal? Thank you for your help!
  • I have an 84 ranger with a 6cylthat is doing the same thing, specially when going up hill.
  • I thought for my first post someone might help me know whether 96 Rangers' ABS is 2whl, 4whl, or could it be either? I bought mine just recently and original owner still had the scraped off dealer sticker stating just "Anti lock brake system" under "Preferred equipment pkg. 856B". Thanks in advance for any possible help!
  • I have an 84 ranger 6cyl 4wd that has a cluncking sound when moving until I push in on the clutch and just recently the brakes are starting to lock up. I checked the master cylinder and it has full fluid, any help or advice would be appreciated.
  • I just bought a 2003 Ranger with a 3.0 v6. The vehicle has a salvage title but appears to be repaired well. It idles and runs smooth. Heres the problem, once it's warmed up, at around 3500 rpm's it hesitates and drops between 200-500 rpms. As long as I shift at 3000 rpms and keep it at 3000 rpms or less, it runs perfectly. So far I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and wires with no success. The check engine light does not come on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,442
    Sounds like a bad head gasket. Is your coolant level dropping as well? Other possibility is that you are sucking brake fluid into the intake manifold, but I don't know your vehicle well enough to suggest how this happens on your engine.

    Might be time for a cylinder leakdown test and also keep your eye on coolant level and brake fluid level. Was this car smogged on a dynomometer type of testing machine?

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  • mrp1mrp1 Posts: 3
    My 99 Ranger has developed the following problem: it will drop out of 4wd after a minute or so of use. It behaves the same whether in 4wL or 4wH, high or low speed. It does this under all conditions, even when driving in a straight line on a snow covered road (this past week). The tires are in good condition and have been rotated regularly. When it drops out, the dash indicator lights do not change. I had the automatic locking hubs replaced this past year. It may/may not be related, but the ABS will also fail periodically. Especially, when the truck is first used on a snowy or rainy day, the brakes will be very sensitive and it is difficult to brake and not lock the left rear wheel. No ABS dash indicator light will come on. Perhaps the wheel rotation sensors are the culprit for one or both of the problems??

    Hope to hear from someone. Thanks, MP
  • i have a 1988 carburated 2 liter ranger that drains power and wont idle at all dont know where to begin
  • Has anyone experienced jerky clutch engagement and or short clutch life on their 88 Ranger 2.9 5 speed?
  • Desperate for an answer! 1992 Ford Ranger extended cab,4x4, 6cyl, 4.0. Woo is me, my poor truck. First, my air conditioning unit kept running every 5 seconds then turning off, causing the motor to surge. My husband disconnected it. Now, lost power. Battery drained, battery light did come on. Replaced the battery, still lost all power. Replaced the alternator. Still lost power after driving it 66 miles, engine quit. I read somewhere that the positive battery cable can cause this by corrosion. If anyone is out there that can give a bit of advise, please, I am desperate. Gotta go to work! Hubby thinks it's the voltage regulator but we just replaced the alternator! :cry: :sick:
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