Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Welcome to the Edmunds forums! We are changing the way you sign into our forums. Click here to learn more.

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • If you haven't replaced the regulator yet, be sure that the vacuum control line is in place on the one you have. I agree with you, it's not likely that the new regulator is bad; it IS possible.

    Without the vacuum line in place, the regulator can't work.

    Again, I hope this helps.
  • I have a 97 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual trans and 3.0 engine. When driving my truck, it hesitates to idle down between shifts. I can actually be cruising in 5th gear and just mash the clutch in and the truck still stays at rpm for a little while unless braking and slowing quickly. While sitting in the driveway not moving but reving the engine, it idles down just fine. This led me to the vss. I can unplug the vss and drive the truck and it idles down quickly but then i have no speed odometer. I replaced the vss with no help. The iacv is the same. I unplug it and it idles down quickly while driving so I replaced it also with no help. I also replace the tps with no help. I cleaned the maf also. My brother hooked laptop and diagnostics up and we drove around showing no codes and everything working perfect. It confirmed throttle was not sticking and rpms were slow to go down and even sometimes reving just a little higher before dropping when depressing the clutch. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running out of money buying sensors.
  • paulp1paulp1 Posts: 2
    hello my name is Paul,
    I don't know if oyu have fixed your problem yet, but by the messages i read that people have sent you, prob. not. you more than likely have some bad piston rings, valve stems, or a blown headgasket - any of these would let gas get into your oil, and with a blown headgasket you would have anti-freeze mixing with your fuel and oil.
    hope this helps.
  • paulp1paulp1 Posts: 2
    if it is the 4 door model, 2 regular and 2 suicide doors the 2 back door panels just pop off , after removing bolts securing seatbelt, be careful not to break wires going to speaker in panel. might have to buy some new plastice body/trim rivets.
  • Hi Paul,
    Thanks for the imput, I have improved my situation by replacing the fuel pressure regulator and hooking up the vacuum lines properly.Theirs no water in the fuel, but I think you hit it on the head on all other accounts! It pings and clatters mainly at 55-65 MPH and it blows a puff of white smoke when I start it,and strangly enough as I accelerate the pinging will fade in and out and the smoke corasponds whith the pinging.I saw someone write about an electronic something that retards your timing when it thinks you lack power hmmm wish I knew more about that.As for the fuel in my oil I Think that problem is correected with the repair 's described above
  • I have a 1987 Ranger 2.9 L V-6, rebuilt engine 30k miles ago with the following :
    -New low press fuel pump 25k miles ago
    -New high press fuel pump 10k miles ago
    -New fuel filter 10k miles ago
    -New inertia fuel shutoff switch to try and solve the problem

    -No fuel pressure at the pressure relief valve by the intake
    -Can't hear either of the fuel pumps running
    -No fuel problem came on out of the blue after parking it overnight...turns over, but won't start, no "engine coughing" like it wants to start

    1) What might be the problem ?
    2) Is there a way to mount an external fuel pump to bypass both high and low pressure fuel pumps ?
  • Hey i have the same proplem with my 98' and i found this
    I hope this helps you.
  • jsb4jsb4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 4X4 with a 4.0L and a 5 spd. manual transmission. Today, I started having problems getting the clutch to disengage. For a while, shifting was difficult, but it worked. However, the problem got worse the more I used the clutch and reached a point where I couldn't shift into a gear at all. I shut the engine off and could get it into first. When I started the engine with the clutch pedal depressed and my foot on the brake, it started fine. Although it was pulling against the brakes, it didn't kill the engine. It felt like I was riding the clutch, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor. I figure there is something wrong with the hydraulic and I'm losing pressure some how.

    Here's where I'm confused. Once I got it into gear and cruised for a while, I could use the clutch again. It was as if the pressure had returned to the line. But after a few moves of the clutch, it was completely ineffective. I'd leave the pedal alone for a minute or two and I could use it again. But again, it was only working through one or two moves.

    It's raining, so I haven't had the guts to remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap for fear of getting water in the system. But I suspect there is some fluid in the system since it was able to get the clutch to work some of the time.

    How do I proceed with diagnosing this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 60,687
    I'd suspect hydraulics. Hydraulics can temporarily "rejuvenate" but a bad pressure plate never does. You can't hurt the clutch fluid with a few rain drops.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • I just bought a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 5-speed. It seems to take a little while to warm up and just gets into the bottom of the range of the normal range on the temp gauge. After replacing the thermostat, I noticed that the radiator fan runs even on cold start. Is this normal or does the radiator fan clutch need to be replaced?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 60,687
    Here's a good explanation of fan clutches for you: Radiator Fan

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • I have been experiencing the same issues with my '97 Ford (5-speed). The battery and starter have been changed as well as the battery cables. The clutch safety relay engages, the solenoid activates but the engine does not turn over.

    I turn off the key, run through all of the gears a few times, then leave it in a different gear other than first, it will start. REALLY has me baffled....

    any ideas would be greatly appreciated....
  • randdtranddt Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me what tool I would need to use in order to replace the tailgate cables on a Ranger?
  • I need a ford ranger fuse diagram can you help me?
  • after my truck warms up when i come to a stop the idle wants to die but it doesnt. I have just replaced the plugs and wires, air filter, and had all the routine maintenance done to it a few months ago. I had a problem before were it wouldnt hold an idle at all and the changed the AIC air idle control. since then it has been running fine but last week it started to want to die on me when i come to a stop light and has really no power when i first hit the gas. :confuse:
  • The fuel pump on my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed just went out. When I found this forum, I learned that I need to either drop the fuel tank or remove the bed to get to the fuel pump. For me, removing the bed is not an option. I see only 3 bolts securing the tank. Are there more than 3 bolts, or does the tank swivel down towards one side.?
    Somewhere else I learned that an '86 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed has 2 fuel pumps, one in the fuel tank at the top and one on the the chassis frame just under the driver door. Is this the case for my '90 Ranger? If so, is there a way to check which fuel pump went out?
    Before this happenned, I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
    The plugs and wires are brand new and firing. I looked in the owners manuel and learned that the fuel pump shut off switch may have been triggered, checked it and its in the "on" position. Also learned that the fuel pumps fuse and circuit breaker may have went out, checked them and they aren't blown.
    Also, Is there a fuel drain plug or something on the tank, I hope I dont have to drink a lot of fuel. :confuse:
  • sadroksadrok Posts: 2
    2001 ranger 4.0l V6. The PCV valve should be -drivers side valve cover in the back near the firewall. I have tried to pull it out, twist it out, yank it out... It seems loose but it won't budge. Is there something i'm missing? :mad:
  • Sup?I just got my 05 ranger egde back from the shop and the truck was making the same noise. So the machnic drove it and said the belt haddn't been tightened properly. so go to shop and have them take it for a drive. That's the best advice I could give you. :shades:
  • UpDate

    I've decided that any and all fuel pumps my '90 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed may have, I will just replace them all starting with the one in the fuel tank.
    I took out 2 of the 3 bolts and the last bracket-arm just crumbled, however the fuel tank is still intact. (It seems to just be hanging there). There's dirt caked up on the top of the tank, and the fuel lines feel like they are metal rather than rubber. Could this be why it's just hanging there? It seems like if the lines are metal that they would be connected by "InLine Couplings". If the lines are rubber, then the metal I'm feeling is only the tanks "Line Necks" and the lines are fastened with small hose clamps, somehow secuered to the frame by hose brackets.
    Also, the tank has a protection apron around it which has some wierd-looking clips on it. Could this be helping hold the tank from falling? Any ideas on how to deal with the frame brackets and apron clips?
  • The other day I turned on my defroster for the first time in about a year. Later, I tried to turn on my a/c. No matter what setting I put the fan on(a/c, max a/c, etc.) the air only blows out of the defrost vents. If I switch to "off", however, the air stops blowing. Any ideas. Thanks.
  • I own a 2004 Ford Ranger that I drive for a living. It
    has 96,000 miles on it and I bought it just last year.
    The "check engine" light began to come on recently,
    and the code indicated a misfiring cylinder, the 6th.
    I took it to an ASE, AAA certified shop, they looked at
    it for 2 days and are scratching their heads. After
    consulting with Ford about the problem, no one can
    figure out what is wrong. It was put back together
    and driven over to Airport Ford in Florence, KY this
    morning. This is most definitely some sort of major
    defect, and I will post more later on.
  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    It sounds like you need to invest in a manual that covers your specific year , you can get one at a decent auto parts store for about $15. It would be a good investment if you like doing your own work. Good luck.
  • Basics first,
    The first thing I would check is to see if there is a hot/cold air regulator somewhere between the engine and the instrument panel (that includes both sides of the firewall). You can almost always find it by following the lines and hoses from the ac pulley/pump.
    In some cases, the heater/defroster uses the hot air that builds up inside the engine. The line from the ac unit to the air regulator could be plugged; or the instrument dial arm was disconnected somehow. If so it could be anywhere between the dash and the air regulator. Since the blower works, I can almost guarantee that the hot/cold regulator is either clogged, broken, or disconnected.
    It would help pin-point the problem if we had the year, make, model, and any info that might be relevant.
    With the defroster not being ran for almost a year, it makes me wonder how often the ac was ran and what kind of environment is the usual for the vehicle. It could be just airdust, or it could be more extreme than that like rats, bees, wasps, etc. Or it could be that it is definitely clogged if the vehicle is used strictly for mud-bogging or just simply trail riding. In any case, I would completely flush the ac system starting at the hot/cold regulator unit, making sure it is working properly.
  • thanks for the advice but my local parts store dont carry haynes/chilton for under $25. and btw, dont most of us come here simply because we dont have the books that cover specific things.


    The tank is out and the fuel pump is out of the tank, now i get to take the one off my brothers crashed ford and see if it matches. If it does then its going on my truck. If it dont work then I will be looking for a secondary fuel pump on my truck to replace it.
    It's more interesting and challenging to learn by experience through trial and error.

    I did all this without any books and without the help of more experienced people even here on this message board since I began posting here. (I'm not one to just sit here and look at a PC screen; Anything I do, I have a purpose for doing it. Without a purpose, what's the point in doing it? Even if it's "just to see what it looks like", Hey even that's a purpose for doing something.
    Way Cool.
  • 2002 v6 4x4 60,000 miles. recently went to put vehicle into 4x4 high using the dash mounted switch. I get no response . will not shift into 4 wheel drive. Even when I have key in the Acc. position lights indicating 4 low or 4 high does not illuminate. Normally in Acc. position the instrument cluster does light up these indications. I have checked all known fuses and they are fine. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mechanical knowledge is average. Thanks
  • 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 4.0 L - my truck's clutch has become very lose. When you push on the clutch it's very easy, all you have to do is tap it and it will go down. However, everything seems to run the same as before. The check engine light has come on after a day's worth of driving. Any suggestions as to the root cause of why the clutch is so loose?
  • I have a 98 Ranger and my instrument panel and tail lights just went out. My brake lights work when the pedal is pressed but the lights are out otherwise. I checked all fuses and replaced the only one that was blown. Any ideas or suggestions?
  • could be the motor on the transfer case or the module sometimes in back of drivers seat.
  • I'm still having the same problem with my 98 ranger, have you tried the (gem) module?
  • hi i have 98 ford ranger engine light on code reading p1401 any ideas for solving this :confuse: . my truck has been in the shop many times for this one code.

Sign In or Register to comment.