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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • I may not understand exactly what you are asking, but it is perfectly normal for the front of the differential to move upward when you take off. This is a "live" axle on leaf springs and you will get this "wind up" on acceleration. Some Rangers have had issues with binding of the splines in the driveshaft when accelerating but the differential movement is normal.
  • I have a 2001 that I just replaced rotors and pads (the good bosch ceramic ones) three months ago and now when I brake it pulls to the left. Is that what was happening to you as well?

  • This is due to federal epa regs which forced manufacturers to put a govoners on larger vehicles. when you are out of warranty you can either change the computer chip or get an obd II programer.
  • The brake lines might hav to be bleed, and also ckeck the position of the spacers on the back of the pads. Use the ones that came with the pads. If that doesn't work check the hydro boost, and master brake cylinder to see if their are no blocked lines. Also check the brake fuse.
  • We just bought a 2000 Ranger and we want to put on access steps for both driver and passinger sides. Has anyone done this and if so what brand. I cannot find a brand that fits the ranger series of trucks.
  • Several issues here, first if your mechanic can't fix it without your help...UH ask for a discount.
    Second, get a wiring diagram, Pester the ford dealer, he'll get you one.
    Look at the flasher unit, the harness from the column. If I remember there is more than just turn signals on the handle, if everything else is working My first stop would be the flasher. then check the wiring from the column to the flasher. It really has to be somewhere in that harness. You might check for Haynes or Chilton manual to see if you can find a wiring diagram for the truck. The flasher is located close to the Fuse panel. Check the owners manual for exact location in the electrical fuse section. I just thought of this. Hazards, do they work. If not then it is in the power wire to the Hazard switch If they do then it is in the Flasher unit Good Luck :sick:
  • I have discovered this also with my '03. Very little in the way of accessories. You might look up or Good Luck :shades:
  • Yup, My '03 with a 4L goes 90 and that's all folks. But then really. 90 in a 4WD on the highway....Get a bike!
  • I can probably help with the clunk rather than the WHEE! If you slide under the truck (brake and block tires) THe U-Joint may be worn. Grap the Drive shaft as it enters the differential, then just before the U-Joint grab the drive shaft. Twist in opposite directions, this is done 2 places, as the shaft exits the tranny and at the entrance to the differential. if there is play in the motion get the u-joint replaced. the age of the truck says this may be the issue. I have a standard in my '03 and if I abruptly let the clutch out from 1 to 2 shift I will get a clunk also. Not a bad idea to check it anyway. Now the Whee does it get worse when you idle the engine high and turn on the A/C. if so try the tensioner for the belt can be weak or even the tensioner pulley bearing. if you spray a little water on the belt while running the noise will change if it is the belt. I wouldn't use any dressings as they just make a mess. Those springs in the tensioner do give up Good Luck
  • It's junkyard time buddy, That truck out there at the u-Wrench it doesn't need it. Go find your type and peel the thing off and using clear shipping tape you have a new one
  • Sometimes the calipers hang. remove the left side caliper, pull of the hose and clean the thing. It is just not releasing like it should
  • Took the little '03 Ranger truck out to haul some stuff up a hill, had to put it in 4 low to pull up the muddy hill. It took 30 minutes to get it out and back to 2WD. I tried backing for a quarter mile. Rocking it beating the bageebers out of it and I finally flipped the switch and it went. Of course the dealer said Uh I've never seen that before......Any ideas anyone
  • I just wanted to thank you for your help. I replaced the sensor like you suggested and it did correct the issue. I appreciate your help. You saved me a lot of money.
  • Hi. I have a 1993 Ranger (4-cyl, no air, manual trans) and it has had a problem for several years now that is driving me nuts. If I let the truck sit for a week it refuses to crank. You can hear the solonoid click but that is it. The battery is charged... and I've even changed it to be sure. The headlights are on full brightness when this happens... voltage is up on the battery. I've changed starters and batteries. Cables are in good shape. In fact, the truck is in showroom condition. If I put the thing on a charger for even a short while it will start just fine. There is another fellow in town who's Ranger is doing the same thing. He disconnects the battery every time he exits the truck and it was the only way he could get around the problem.

    I've taken it to several mechanics and all have come up empty. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
  • My heater stays on all of the time also on my 98 Ford Ranger. Where is the blend door exactly?

  • skgskg Posts: 16
    I installed Lund brand side steps on my 2000 Ranger Supercab with little difficulty. I think that I had to drill 3 or 4 holes in the frame rails on each side; but every thing was there in the instructions. Good Luck.
  • I have a 2000 ford ranger supercab and the fuse that controls the O/D buttom keeps blowing. This fuse also controls the back up lights. Any ideas what may be wrong. The truck has 60k miles on it and is in excellent shape.
  • My 99 ranger with a 2.5L manual 4 cyl engine seems to only get about 17 miles to the gallon. The problem is it used to get about 20. Could it be my air filter? Suggestions? Thanks!
  • your caliper is probably freezing up buy a new one
  • my 96 ranger transmission slips in and out of overdrive.wondering if theres some kind of electronic sensor on transmission that might be the cause of the problem.also the switch on the shifter to shut off the overdrive stopped working.used to just turn off im slippin like crazy
    any suggestions? thanks.
  • What you say isn't logical/ I don't doubt your sincerity. If, in fact, the battery is adequately charged, it shouldn't require a charge to start. Most likely you have a bad cable connection, a bad cable, or a poor ground connection, despite whatever checking has been done.

    Assuming that the battery is in fact poorly charged after the week, you probably have an excessive power draw,probably caused by some accessory being on, or a small light being on (sometimes a relay fails and keeps something on). Try removing the ground wire from the battery, check resistance between battery leads; resistance should be in megohms. It will not be infinite because of clock draw, etc. If resistance is less, find the cause, correct it. One particular place to look, if equipped, is the underhood light. Sometimes the switch fails, the light stays on, the battery discharges.

    I hope that this helps.
  • I have a 2000 ranger and the pass. power door lock sometimes only goes about half way up and of course sometimes works great. Is there an adjustment on this inside the door? What do I need to do to fix this.
  • I have just purchased a 1994 3.0 V-6 auto ford ranger . It runs good but the oil fills up with raw fuel and it bellows white smoke upon acceleration especially during in town stop and go driving.I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil the smoking has slowed but only because of the clean oil, the oil is filling up with gas again.This is my 2nd oil change and it will start smoking again Does any one know what the problem could be?Also the top of the regulator has a vacuum line attachment but their was no line.Where is it supposed to go to.If this truck blows I will be in serious trouble as it is my only transpo...I know the gas in the oil is damaging the motor and its killing me. Can someone help!
  • my rear door won't open, the latch at the top won't release (but the bottom latch releases). I'd like to get inside to see what's wrong, but don't know how to get the panel off and I don't want to break anything. thanks
  • I'm not sure about all of your problem, but, per one of the auto repair manuals, the vacuum line to your pressure regulator is simply engine vacuum, i.e. manifold vacuum. There should be a vacuum routing diagram under the hood somewhere; check it out,run a line as shown. If there is no diagram, find the vacuum tap, somewhere on the intake manifold. Trace all of the lines from that point; you should find a disconnected line, or plugged line, or some such. That should be the line to your regulator; hook it up.

    The regulator works by controlling fuel flow back to the tank; in your case, the injectors see all of the pressure that the fuel pump produces. I I don't know how the fuel gets into your oil, but, getting the regulator to working might correct all of the problem.

    Be aware, you might have a bad regulator.
  • Thank you for the advice I will see to it tonight! You believe the new regulator could be defective; huh I would never have figured that . I will take it back and get another,it was very simple to replace.

    Thanks Again,
  • The same exact thing started happening to me on Oct 3. I have a 96 ranger, 4-cyl, no air, man trans. I push started it and it would go. Then it started ok for 2 days. Today, I couldn't start it again.

    I have the same exact symptoms - solenoid clicks, nothing else. Battery is fine.
  • dine1dine1 Posts: 1
    I own a 1994 ford ranger x-cab. Whenever the engine warms up and I apply the brakes, the battery guage and oil pressure guage go crazy. When the battery guage reads 0, and I try to use the door locks or power windows, not only do the locks/windows don't work, it somehow turns off my satellite radio that is plugged into the cigarette outlet. I have thought of replacing all of the wires behind the instrument panel, but is this worth it? I forgot to mention that when the battery guage reads 0, both turn signal lights (in the instrument panel) will turn on and stay on. The truck does have close to 200,000 miles on it, so I need advice on whether to try to fix my electrical problems or just give in and give up the truck.
  • Hi... The reply just before yours for my question lists all of the "normal" things that need to be checked. I have done these also, but didn't list them because I thought it obvious and didn't wish a very long post to the group. I assume you have done the same. There is an underhood light and I have removed it so that isn't the problem. The starter has been changed... twice. The battery has also, and the current one is only a few months old. I found a person this past week who had a BMW that did the same thing and was told by a dealer, "that is just the way it is." He now drives a different brand of car.

    The fellow before you in this post thread indicated it might be a relay. I was aware it might be... I was hoping that this was common enough that I didn't have to tear the whole truck wiring harness apart to find it. I guess it isn't, which is good for Ford, but this is an irritating problem.

    I am about to rig up a relay of my own to disconnect the battery via a switch under the dash, with only the clock, radio, and relay circuit energized at all times. It is a bit of a kludge repair, but my sanity is worth it.

    If the switch were well hidden it would also have the added advantage of being a theft deterrent. Sounds like my weekend project... if I can get the truck started to move it to my shop.

    Good luck with your truck.

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