From what I read in another forum, the rear cupholder wasn't available in the US for some reason, but was in Canada. However, when I called a local dealership, they knew nothing about it. They looked in the 2003 sedan and P5 catalogue.
Well, now that I've gotten most of that molten plastic off my exhaust system, on to the next automotive project: installation of that full Stongard kit onto my wife's now-slightly-dusty silver P5.
However, I gotta get a space heater powerful enough to get the garage temperature above 60F first.
I'll let you know how it goes. That big front bumper piece really intimidates me. I think I'll start with the fog lamp covers (round, almost flat...and near the ground so mistakes will be less noticeable).
I bought one of those cheap ($89) propane heaters to heat my uninsulated one stall garage in the winter. It works pretty good. You might want to keep a carbon monoxide detector plugged in though.
I recently purchased a '03 MSP and was wondering if anybody out there knows wether the front mount intercooler from the flying miata turbo kit will work. Likewise the downpipe used for that kit might fit aswell?
Then it's all about a boost controller, I've heard of people running up to 15-16 psi on the garret T25 with the mitsu eclipse/eagle talon. Does anyone know if that is feasible in this config (of course only after intercooler and exhaust upgrades)?
I also purchased a HKS type 1 turbo timer and i woulld realy love not have to cut into the system, is there a harness that will work?
It took several hours, but we got the film onto my wife's P5, lamps and front-end.
And I have to say, it was pretty darn hard to get some parts on, especially the side mirrors and door handle cups. Good thing we saved the front bumper piece for last, as we got fairly decent at it by then (we also only worked on one half at a time, which made it much easier).
Anyhow, there are still some bubbles of fluid (25% rubbing alcohol, to give us some "work time" before the adhesive set) and some air bubbles too, but these are already working their way out through the film. Not bad. Now my wife doesn't have to worry about her car's front end getting all chipped and stuff.
If you try to tackle it, try to get some help. The big pieces are much easier with two people handling them.
Does the current factory stereo fit into the 99-00 center stack and use the same connectors?
I'm looking for minimal modifications (i.e. no cutting of rear support brackets, no wire splicing, soldering etc.) when replacing my non-CD-playing CD-player.
Does anyone know whether the standard US spec. roof rack will fit the Canadian predrilled mounts for the totally useless roof rack assembly being sold as an accessory here in Canada?
I've been thinking about getting a rack for my P5 also. What is wrong with the Cdn rack from Mazda? I haven't made time to take a good look at it yet and have only seen a couple of P5's with one on it around here (London) but not seen the owners to ask how they like it. Thanks.
It's totally not adjustable and sits only about 24 inches apart so if you are carrying a longer load, it's terribly unbalanced. In the manual (I don't have it in front of me so I don't know numbers for sure) the one warning states that the bars should not be placed closer than 32 inches(or something like that) so the whole design is contrary to their own recommendations. All the Canadian advertising, print or T.V., show the US version of the roof rack, which Mazda Canada apparently didn't even know when I called them on it.
i was curious if anyone had researched getting an update in the powertrain control module (PCM) that the MP3 has for a pro es. just seeing if i can add 10 horses with a computer mod. i'm no expert, so if that sounds ridiculous, pardon my ignorance.
I take back all the praise I gave the stock head unit. I think it rots.
Seriously, I do think the stock head units are decent. It's the speakers that are weak.
I'm just bummed my stock one and the refurbished one I got to replace it won't play my factory CDs or my CD-R mixes (yes, they're all single-session and closed-out etc....no problems with any of them playing in any of my portable players except my '89 Panasonic, which has a really weak laser).
So....I've got a JVC SX-980 on order. Rotary control, CD/CD-R/MP3 compatible, front AUX input jack (for my MP3 jukebox) and more power to boot. Too bad I gotta take out my cassette player, but I've been using it to pipe in my MP3 player instead of playing tapes anyway. I figure I'll get more storage space once I find a stock storage bin in a junkyard somewhere (I'm kinda mad at my dealer for not giving it to me when I ordered the cassette player...I should have asked for it...20/20 hindsight).
I will miss the larger controls on the stock unit (especially nice on the 01-03s). What I don't like about most aftermarket head units (including this one) are the puny controls they have because they have to cram in some fancy video light show on the face. Sheesh. Drivers should be paying attention to driving, not watching the stereo. At least this one's not too psychedelic.
Since I've been using my MP3 jukebox, I can't go back. Mazda'd better put a front AUX input jack into their stereo offerings in the future, or make it easy for me to move my aftermarket unit into it, or I ain't buying. This goes for everybody else too. Oh, I guess I'd better let Mazda NA know that, huh.
Much bigger magnets. Very efficient. Net, I don't have to turn the stereo volume up past 3 bars when I play CDs, past 4-5 when I play tapes. I used to play CDs at 5 bars with the stock speakers, for comparison.
Much clearer highs, thumpier bass. Mid-range was good before, probably better now, but I can't tell.
I'll report on the head unit swap when I get done with it. Shouldn't be too hard, judging from what's said on the Protegetech forums. I was looking at the JVC S707 (not MP3-compatible) unit too, but I prefer a manual flip-down face to a motorized face. Head unit isn't as deep, costly or more complex. I did prefer its (S707) control layout though. It looks cleaner (more straightforward) too.
Aaargh - I haven't been tracking the boards, or I'd have recommended a head-unit that is satellite radio ready. rust me - go listen to it at your local Best Buy/Circuit City, and you're gonna want it!
I thought about it and I'm too cheap to pay $10-12 each month for it. I don't even get basic cable because I won't shell out the $10/month it costs. And I'm still on dial-up for the same reason.
Besides, my iPod provides the endless hours of audio entertainment on those long drives. I definitely want an AUX IN jack on my next car's audio system as well. The squeaks from the cassette player do get annoying at times.
I don't think I'll ever understand what drives 'em
FWIW - you can have the best of both (all?) worlds. Pioneer makes a lot of head units that are XM, CD-changer ready and ALSO have AUX inputs. Mine has a permanent cable attached to it (rear AUX inputs) hanging out in the passenger foot-area(I always get "Your car is falling apart" comments!). So I have the following choices - tape (in head unit), CD changer (trunk mounted), XM, FM, AM, MP3 CD discman and anything else with a line-level 1/8"output (the headphone level output from an older Sony "Walkman" cassette player don't do too well)
It is laziness really. It is much easier to do most things on a Mac because that is the way it was designed. Windows has gotten much better over the years, but they still have not achieved the ease of use that the Mac has. I have owned Macs for 13 years and have one on my desk at work. That says a lot coming from a UNIX geek. It is also interesting to note that, since Apple released the iPod for Windows, it (the Windows version) has accounted for 50% of iPod sales, so I guess even Windows people like the iPod. I have one, and I think it is the best MP3 player I have seen.
I never got around to replacing the head unit in my Protege ES before I sold it, but I was considering the Kenwood DPX-MP4030 double DIN unit. I was pretty sure I could make it fit, but alas, I never got around to it.
All the more reason for me to use Macs at home. It really has been much less headache, especially when I hear my friends and co-workers gripe about how some their computer won't recognize a new peripheral. Not to say my Macs haven't had some troubles over the years (usually some poorly-ported piece of software, or AOL...oh, wait, that's like saying the same thing), but they've been less trouble than the Windows machines I have to deal with every day.
I do keep AOL just for the e-mail address, but only on the $5 plan.
Hello All. Just bought a new PR5 so I am new to the Protege family. I have already read all the post, but can't find an answer to my question.
I want to replace my factory front & rear speakers with more powerful ones. I looking to buy from Crutchfield but I want to be sure of my sizes.
According to Crutchfield, my Fronts are 6 1/2" and my Rears are 6x8's. Is this accurate?? Has anyone replaced their factory's in an 02/03 yet?? Thanks!!
Actually, according to Crutchfield, your fronts are 6x8 and your rears are 6.5". This is correct. I put Kenwood KFC-6808c fronts in my 2001 ES. I was quite pleased. I am not sure if the fronts in the 2003 P5 are component or not since there is a separate tweeter in each door. No one seems to know the answer, and I haven't taken the opportunity to take apart my doors, but I doubt they are. I would get the 6x8s for the P5 from Mazdastuff.com ($104 vs. $149.99 plus they are pre-wired) and get the 6.5" rears from Crutchfield. Good luck.
Thanks for the info boggse! Yeah, I had my numbers reversed. How do the Kenwoods sound?
I am looking for the cheapest upgrade possible right now with my PR5 audio. Want to keep the head unit and just replace the spkrs with quality. Currently looking at the Infinity Kappa 62.5i 6.5"'s for rear and the Kappa 572.5 5x7's for front. Has anyone tried these speakers with the factory head unit yet??
I found the sound quality to be greatly improved when I replaced the stock speakers. Also, it was no longer necessary to turn the volume up quite so far when at highway speeds. I found the improvement well worth the money. Replacing the speakers is definitely the first, and cheapest step to a better sounding stereo. I can't comment on the Infinitys in a Protege, but I have an Infinity speaker system in my 98 Cherokee which sounds great.
I had mentioned on one of the Protege/Protege5 message boards (I think in early January) about how well the Sylvania Cool blue Xenon filled bulbs worked. They were brighter than the standard halogen bulbs that came on the car and I was pleased about that.
Unfortunately, both bulbs have already burnt out (and no I didn't handle the glass with my bare hands). The first filament went after about 5 weeks, and the second went one week later.
Has anyone purchased Xenon filled bulbs that have lasted longer than 6 weeks????
I purchased my father a set of PIAA Xtreme White Plus bulbs for his 99 Suburban in November. So far, he has had no problems. We are at 12 weeks and counting. I have heard others complain about PIAAs in the same way, so we may just be lucky so far. Most people don't try to get PIAA to honor their warranty, but this is what they say:
PIAA Corporation, USA ("PIAA") warrants its products to be free from defects in workmanship and materials under normal use for as long as the original purchaser owns them.
I find that a strongly worded letter to the manufacturer and carbon copies to my State Attorney General and a local consumer rights attorney usually clear up any warranty disputes. I couldn't find any mention of a warranty on Sylvania's website, so they may not offer any such coverage.
The BJ1H-66-9M0 (new style) has a button to open the lid while the BJ0E-66-9M0 (old style) is opened by pushing the whole cover in and releasing. The newer style retails for $90 while the old style is even more. I'd contact a salvage yard if you are set on getting one. Another option is to use the pre-99 style (B02A-66-9M0A) that is just a simple pocket and retails for $10.
I guess I got quoted on the older style. $130! Yikes! I shoulda asked to keep that pocket when I got the optional cassette player. The things you learn the hard way....
I'll explore the salvage route first. I'm sure someone has totaled their Pro while zooming a little carelessly.
I noticed the wires on my right-rear speaker were crossed as well (striped one was hot, unstriped one was ground). And the wires in my front-right speaker didn't match the colors in the head unit connector! Good thing I got a multimeter. eeks. If I'd known it'd take me about 3 hours, I might've paid someone else to do this. Oh well. It's in and it works.
Now to fill in the hole where my cassette player used to be....
I've lost the dimmer function on my interior dash lights. Discovered this on the freeway last night when I tried to dim my dash lights. Oops.
Hmm. Might be the "extra" ground wire I found and the hot wire to the light switch. I'll have to put my multimeter to measure the resistance in the line while I twiddle the dimmer dial.
Good thing I haven't filled the extra hole in my dash yet. Makes it easier to get to the wiring.
If it is like K&N's other intakes, the you shouldn't have any problem putting the stock air box back in. Usually, they re-use the MAS, but everything else just pulls out and the intake goes in. No modifications to the existing hardware are necessary. I'm getting one for my Cherokee as soon as I pay off some student loans.
Anyone know whether the tweeters on the 2003 P5 (and ES I think) are part of a component system? I notice that Mazda still sells the Front Speaker upgrade for the '03 P5, so I am assuming that the tweeters are actually separate speakers, but I do not want to be surprised. Anyone?
You can upgrade the speakers lower in the door without affecting (too much anyway) the tweeters in the mirror sails (which are held in place with a couple of metal clips, so you just yank them out if you need to).
My wife is thinking the stock speakers are wimpy, so I may get the chance to disassemble the doors in her P5. I love taking things apart.
...so long as I don't have too many "extra" parts left.
Learning from my own experience, I got extra plastic fasteners for the door panels (especially the top one at the free end of the door...that one breaks easily). Don't want to upset her too much.
Mazda makes some nice almost-reusable plastic fasteners (they break kind of easily when it's cold). You can pop out the center pin and remove the outer part relatively easily, unlike those one-piece jobbies that most auto mfrs use.
Comments
Can anyone point me toward this accessory?
Thanks!
http://www.fmprotege.com
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext34.shtml
However, I gotta get a space heater powerful enough to get the garage temperature above 60F first.
I'll let you know how it goes. That big front bumper piece really intimidates me. I think I'll start with the fog lamp covers (round, almost flat...and near the ground so mistakes will be less noticeable).
Then it's all about a boost controller, I've heard of people running up to 15-16 psi on the garret T25 with the mitsu eclipse/eagle talon. Does anyone know if that is feasible in this config (of course only after intercooler and exhaust upgrades)?
I also purchased a HKS type 1 turbo timer and i woulld realy love not have to cut into the system, is there a harness that will work?
Thanx
www.protegeclub.com
www.msprotege.com
there are several people on both sites that have added boost to their Proteges/MP3s, they can probably give you much more insight into your question.
I'm wondering the same thing, how long it would take before someone will make a front-mount intercooler for the MSP.
I've heard rumors that Mazdaspeed will come out with additional performance parts (with warranty!) for the MSP, which may include a boost controller.
go check out those 2 sites and good luck.
And I have to say, it was pretty darn hard to get some parts on, especially the side mirrors and door handle cups. Good thing we saved the front bumper piece for last, as we got fairly decent at it by then (we also only worked on one half at a time, which made it much easier).
Anyhow, there are still some bubbles of fluid (25% rubbing alcohol, to give us some "work time" before the adhesive set) and some air bubbles too, but these are already working their way out through the film. Not bad. Now my wife doesn't have to worry about her car's front end getting all chipped and stuff.
If you try to tackle it, try to get some help. The big pieces are much easier with two people handling them.
I'm looking for minimal modifications (i.e. no cutting of rear support brackets, no wire splicing, soldering etc.) when replacing my non-CD-playing CD-player.
Thanks.
Seriously, I do think the stock head units are decent. It's the speakers that are weak.
I'm just bummed my stock one and the refurbished one I got to replace it won't play my factory CDs or my CD-R mixes (yes, they're all single-session and closed-out etc....no problems with any of them playing in any of my portable players except my '89 Panasonic, which has a really weak laser).
So....I've got a JVC SX-980 on order. Rotary control, CD/CD-R/MP3 compatible, front AUX input jack (for my MP3 jukebox) and more power to boot. Too bad I gotta take out my cassette player, but I've been using it to pipe in my MP3 player instead of playing tapes anyway. I figure I'll get more storage space once I find a stock storage bin in a junkyard somewhere (I'm kinda mad at my dealer for not giving it to me when I ordered the cassette player...I should have asked for it...20/20 hindsight).
I will miss the larger controls on the stock unit (especially nice on the 01-03s). What I don't like about most aftermarket head units (including this one) are the puny controls they have because they have to cram in some fancy video light show on the face. Sheesh. Drivers should be paying attention to driving, not watching the stereo. At least this one's not too psychedelic.
Since I've been using my MP3 jukebox, I can't go back. Mazda'd better put a front AUX input jack into their stereo offerings in the future, or make it easy for me to move my aftermarket unit into it, or I ain't buying. This goes for everybody else too. Oh, I guess I'd better let Mazda NA know that, huh.
Did you replace the speakers or just the headunit?
If you did, what did you replace them with?
Thanks.
Pioneer TS-A6999 6x9 in the rear shelf.
Much bigger magnets. Very efficient. Net, I don't have to turn the stereo volume up past 3 bars when I play CDs, past 4-5 when I play tapes. I used to play CDs at 5 bars with the stock speakers, for comparison.
Much clearer highs, thumpier bass. Mid-range was good before, probably better now, but I can't tell.
I'll report on the head unit swap when I get done with it. Shouldn't be too hard, judging from what's said on the Protegetech forums. I was looking at the JVC S707 (not MP3-compatible) unit too, but I prefer a manual flip-down face to a motorized face. Head unit isn't as deep, costly or more complex. I did prefer its (S707) control layout though. It looks cleaner (more straightforward) too.
Besides, my iPod provides the endless hours of audio entertainment on those long drives. I definitely want an AUX IN jack on my next car's audio system as well. The squeaks from the cassette player do get annoying at times.
FWIW - you can have the best of both (all?) worlds. Pioneer makes a lot of head units that are XM, CD-changer ready and ALSO have AUX inputs. Mine has a permanent cable attached to it (rear AUX inputs) hanging out in the passenger foot-area(I always get "Your car is falling apart" comments!). So I have the following choices - tape (in head unit), CD changer (trunk mounted), XM, FM, AM, MP3 CD discman and anything else with a line-level 1/8"output (the headphone level output from an older Sony "Walkman" cassette player don't do too well)
I never got around to replacing the head unit in my Protege ES before I sold it, but I was considering the Kenwood DPX-MP4030 double DIN unit. I was pretty sure I could make it fit, but alas, I never got around to it.
All the more reason for me to use Macs at home. It really has been much less headache, especially when I hear my friends and co-workers gripe about how some their computer won't recognize a new peripheral. Not to say my Macs haven't had some troubles over the years (usually some poorly-ported piece of software, or AOL...oh, wait, that's like saying the same thing), but they've been less trouble than the Windows machines I have to deal with every day.
I do keep AOL just for the e-mail address, but only on the $5 plan.
http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1- 8335&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
apparently a 99+ MPV wiper stalk will be a direct replacement for Protege5's, and a Euro-spec 626 stalk will replace the 3rd gen sedans.
cool huh? ;-)
I want to replace my factory front & rear speakers with more powerful ones. I looking to buy from Crutchfield but I want to be sure of my sizes.
According to Crutchfield, my Fronts are 6 1/2" and my Rears are 6x8's. Is this accurate?? Has anyone replaced their factory's in an 02/03 yet??
Thanks!!
I am looking for the cheapest upgrade possible right now with my PR5 audio. Want to keep the head unit and just replace the spkrs with quality. Currently looking at the Infinity Kappa 62.5i 6.5"'s for rear and the Kappa 572.5 5x7's for front.
Has anyone tried these speakers with the factory head unit yet??
Unfortunately, both bulbs have already burnt out (and no I didn't handle the glass with my bare hands). The first filament went after about 5 weeks, and the second went one week later.
Has anyone purchased Xenon filled bulbs that have lasted longer than 6 weeks????
PIAA Corporation, USA ("PIAA") warrants its products to be free from defects in workmanship and materials under normal use for as long as the original purchaser owns them.
I find that a strongly worded letter to the manufacturer and carbon copies to my State Attorney General and a local consumer rights attorney usually clear up any warranty disputes. I couldn't find any mention of a warranty on Sylvania's website, so they may not offer any such coverage.
I discovered there are two parts under this number: before and after July-ish 1999.
What's the difference? Is the early design cheaper (the later one looks like it has connector blocks on its rear end), and can I still get it?
I guess I got quoted on the older style. $130! Yikes! I shoulda asked to keep that pocket when I got the optional cassette player. The things you learn the hard way....
I'll explore the salvage route first. I'm sure someone has totaled their Pro while zooming a little carelessly.
Now to fill in the hole where my cassette player used to be....
Hmm. Might be the "extra" ground wire I found and the hot wire to the light switch. I'll have to put my multimeter to measure the resistance in the line while I twiddle the dimmer dial.
Good thing I haven't filled the extra hole in my dash yet. Makes it easier to get to the wiring.
http://www.knfilters.com/vehicles/needuus.htm
Hopefully we will see this in production soon.
I think I can find a Protege too, but I'll have to check with a few people.
My wife is thinking the stock speakers are wimpy, so I may get the chance to disassemble the doors in her P5. I love taking things apart.
Learning from my own experience, I got extra plastic fasteners for the door panels (especially the top one at the free end of the door...that one breaks easily). Don't want to upset her too much.
Mazda makes some nice almost-reusable plastic fasteners (they break kind of easily when it's cold). You can pop out the center pin and remove the outer part relatively easily, unlike those one-piece jobbies that most auto mfrs use.