Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

seelig

i only shot a 27.......hehe

good luck on this one now!

minikin

Interesting. I never much thought about using anything but av gas in a "real" airplane engine before. Guess I just let myself be beaten senseless in flight school (vapor pressure, octane, lead content, etc.) without really thinking about it. But then, I haven't actually flown anything from the left seat in over 15 years, either; glad you're still enjoying yourself and shame on me.
-- Don

obyone

Was that on the first or second hole? hehe.

blackmax200

BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA

matthew

seelig

it was after about 10 rounds, where i switched to a two ball putter.........

good luck on this one now!

txyank1

to hit 38. Had one round that would've broke 30 'til I got to that dam 18th!
It's addictive.

seelig

you can shoot straight through the windmill for a hole in one...

seelig

here's one for ya.......

http://www.candystand.com/games/cs_shock_csmg.htm

now really good luck on this one now!

txyank1

that it got knocked out. I have gotten 1 hole -in-one going through the shute but only one.

obyone

I wish I had the time and patience to play that one.

Once a year, I try to get away and take a short vacation here:

You can see more here:

http://www.lodgeatkoele.com/tip_lk-ipix1.htm

Back to topic, was it our friend Hans who posted the solution to the wind noise coming from between the passenger front and rear doors. The solution being gluing the weather stripping to solve the wind noise? I can't seem to remember...ahhh need a vacation...LMAO!!

ryanbab

Obyone what happens when you hit it into the volcano?

add 5 strokes?

txyank1

out on another course!

cowboyjohn1

I see you live in the high country. Vapor pressure is the biggest problem, especially at high density altitude - read 110 degrees on a hot asphalt runway. Fuel pressure can drop to less than a pound - that is when the engine starts cutting out on takeoff. Keep them electric fuel pumps on, sometimes even in the air on very hot days. Too bad you haven't continued to fly. I used to fly 7days a week, but now I only get up every once in a while, mostly in the summer. Sometimes I fly just to warm up the plane and keep the gaskets lubricated. Oh, yes! Silverados! I really like mine.
cowboyjohn

minikin

Oh, yes! Fixed gear, 180 HP carburated (sp) Cardinal, middle of summer in early-mid '80's, taking off from Evergreen's shop just north of Tucson. Neglected to turn on the boost pump since I didn't routinely use it. Fortunately it vapor locked just before, rather than after, I rotated and I got it shut down without going through the cattle fence. Learned two life lessons from that; boost pump on take-off always & use all the runway instead of starting in the middle just 'cause it's convenient and you're flying something little. Third thing also, actually -- next time take the fuel injected retractable.
Hey, they were all just talking about golf anyway. Ok, back to the trucks, I'll go out and hug the blue beast Silverado now.
-- Don

mgdvhman

...isn't Ryan gonna be jealous??

LOL

- Tim

seelig

his truck is "perfect".

LOL

j/k Hans

tomh12

His truck is a slut...

Too many cosmetics....
Heavy blue eye shadow...
Gets banged by other people...
LOL
Tom

ryanbab

haha

seelig

RYAN, you pimpin your truck again?

LOL

cowboyjohn1

Cardinal! I almost forgot about them. I haven't flown a Cardinal since the middle 70's. I remember taking a grossed out Cardinal into Big Bear, Calif - elevation 6748. We didn't exactly leap out of there, but we did get over the fence. Some planes has two speed fuel pumps, and if you turn them on to the highest setting, they will flood the engines on takeoff - not fun. Highest setting is for priming prior to start. I forget, but I think it was either a Piper Seneca or a Cessna 340. Oh yes, Silverados. I am glad you hugged yours, got a rise out of Tim, and Ryan will be jealous. I think I will get mine washed tomorrow - Love that pickup...
cowboyjohn

eric2001

Everyone is still the same.

Dean: you mentioned early that your doors were "sealed off" with the Dynamat. Did you cover over the openings on the inside of the door? I am in the process of doing mine, and I have only put a layer on the outside skin of the door, above and below the impact beam.

-Eric

seelig

i know you addressed your question to Oby, but here's what i did.
3 layers of dynamatt extreme inside the door, and 1 layer on the inside frame covering the holes. best to make a baffle to cover the top of the speaker as well, to protect it from water.
the one area that people told me to do (that i thought was unimportant) was the wheel wells.
believe it or not, it made a huge difference. each layer changed the accoustics as well. takes some experimenting to gain the most in bass resonance.

eric2001

Posted a reply to yours, but it dissappeared, long one, too, damm.

Anyways, is three layers really necessary (in your opinion)? Are all layers extreme? Am I better off using regular than extreme?

When you covered the gaps/holes in the door, did you keep the backing on the dynamat, or is the asphalt adhesive exposed? When you said the wheel wells, I am guessing the kick panels, did you go all the way up behind the dash?

I guess I will need at least another 200 sq. ft. to do the pig. This is starting to look like a month long chore! When are you & Tim heading to NY? (I'll buy the New Castle brown if you guys are willing to work!)
-Eric

seelig

new castle will get me to do anything.

i like the extreme because of it's lack of asphalt odor. for a while i talked to a lot of people about which was better, and it always came down to the smell of the stuff, especially if it gets wet. and the extreme does kill more road noise.
3 layers might be overkill, but first did 2 layers on the doors and back panel and 1 layer on the floor. this change the bass resonance in a way that it seemed flat. having gone this far i decided to go all out and do the 3rd layer on the doors and back wall, and 2 more layer on the floor. then 2 layer up and under the dash. the kick panels as well. when i did the wheel wells, i'm talking about the outside. i took the plastic out first, then layed 2 layers and put the plastic back in so you don't see it. this made the biggest difference in killing road noise. the truck is really quiet now, and i can tell the difference when i drive the wife's truck. mine is much quieter than hers, and volume doesn't need to be as high as when i first installed the system.
again, after all this, the bass became more punchy as well.

if you really want to pursue the ultimate, talk to Quadrunner. he has set up a sound room i believe, and from a post of his that he once put up on Tim's site, he really knows his stuff. there's a lot to imaging and what not, and his post explained it in lamens terms, so that even i could understand it.

obyone

if you want to upgrade your exterior door handles...you will be cutting the area that you sealed off. So if you plan to upgrade the handles, best do it before you dynamat the door. Now how do I know this.....

eric2001

You must have me confused with Ryan, mine is the truck that hasn't been washed in 2 months.

Oh, wait, yea, thats correct, its a TRUCK, not a fashion plate.

(Sorry Ryan, not trying to pick on you).

Anyways, I am not planning on upgrading the door handles.

So how anal were you two when you put the layers on the outside of the doors, did you actually cover the side impact beams? Did you try and cover every spot? Do you overlap the outside piece (over the holes) to prevent noise infiltration?

You guys didn't bother putting the poly back on the doors did you?
Thanks
-Eric

drobi

I bought a 1997 chevy 1500 p/u new in 95 and it burned oil from day 1 (1 quart every 1500 mi.). I kept the truck for three years and traded it in because I was not comfortable with a new truck burning oil, I had a 1974 for 13 years/180,000 mi. and never ever had to add oil, I traded for a 2000 grand prix which never uses oil at all. I want to buy a new truck, however, the newer GM trucks have different engines than the 305/350 and I've read some post's where these engines also use/burn oil which concerns me. I lookd at the F-150 and saw some pictures of how it fared in the off-set crash test (the worst of all full size pick-up's by far), Toyota did the best, WOW, I never thought I would step foot in a toyota dealership but I actually test drove a Tundra. The Tundra was a nice truck and I know Chevy will blow it away in 4-wheeling & towing, but I don't want to pay 25,000+ for a new truck that burns oil. I never had any problems other than the oil consumption issue with my 97 chevy 1500 p/u, however, any new vehicle IMO should not consume 1 qt. at 1500 mi. Comments appreciated.

Don

seelig

i did all the above eric, but more so because i'm a perfection freak.............hehe

seelig

good luck with your new tundra.......and may all your stopping experiences be safe ones......

good luck on that one now!

eric2001

I did not mean it that way. Okay, I owe you 2 beers now. But I am upset, I thought I had the one door done, now you guys are telling me I need to put two more layers on the inside & and another one outside the door... Gee whiz, Wally.

Not to mention that trying to roll the Dynamat out inside the door panel was a pain, and I really didn't bother trying to fit it in perfectly, just got approximate measurements and cut it out!

Oh well, guess I will have to work now. The real shame will be drilling the hole in the rear floor for the 00 power cable. That will break my heart. I also need to design an enclosure for under the rear seat for a set of 10's. The seat framing will be out for the dynamat, so I guess I will make a box then.

Oh the joys of upgrades!
-Eric

seelig

eric, i know what you meant.
it's up to you whether or not you need to go 3 layers.
for me, i just get caught up in what i'm doing, and in this case, i had figured that since i spent as much as i did on the equipment, why not go all out on the matt. one layer made a big difference. 3 layers made it that much better.
quite frankly, if the wife had said "NO" more money, then i'd have stopped at the first step.......LOL
thank god she's so sweet......

hunter48

Did anyone try the new bosch platinum spark plugs in the 5.3 silverado?http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/SparkPlugs/PlatinumPlus4/

eric2001

Maybe if I had one, I would spend more time out working on the truck?

LMFAO - not a chance - the gf is bothersome enough, can't imagine having to listen to someone tell me what to do all the time!

Oh well, working all weekend, truck will have to wait until Monday.

Mike: I know you didn't (anal comment), but if I am not nice, how do I get the free labor? So how much dynamat did you go through? I have 100 sq. ft. and a crew-cab, so I am guessing I will need an additional 200 more?

Thanks,
-Eric

jaguar0027

There is a TSB out for the Rado's concerning the oil consumption. I just had my done recently so its too early too tell if its using up too much oil.

Perhaps some of the other guys can share there stories....

obyone

Who said dynamat extreme was used on the outside of the doors. Ever heard of the spray? Being that it's so hard to get it in there, you could just buy a couple of cans and spray it in. Kinda like the old days when they used to shoot rust proofing in your doors and it used to drip and make a mess for days. Well the dynamat wont make a mess and it sure beats sticking your hand in there. Now of course if you could get the gf to do it for you....well I would go with the dynamat extreme.

I put the plastic back in place after I completed the insulation of the inner panel. Is there something about it that you don't like? It does provide additional protection so I figured why not. For the floor of the truck you could use the cheaper dynamat and save the extreme for the walls and doors.

Why do you need to drill a hole in the floor when there are existing holes in the firewall? Unless of course, your battery is under the truck. Anyone mention Monster cable? They have an installtion kit with everything you need including a grommet should you not be able to find an existing hole to push the power wire through. I guess you could use the same grommet in the floorboard.

Lastly, why would you want to make your own boxes? Q Customs and JL Audio make custom boxes for these trucks. Hmmm, but you have the crew cab...maybe an email or phone call could get you info if they would fit the crew cab also.

You can email me for my address to send those two beers. And please, no Miller Golden Draft. hehe!

obyone

I guess there are problems with all makes of trucks. The fix out for the new trucks is to replace the PCV valve to eliminate the oil consumption. Simply replace a $4 part. Hope this helps in your decision to buy a GM truck. ;-)

mgdvhman

...Only Porter and Stout.....MGD...ickkk...what was I thinking years ago?

..Post 6067......BWHAHAHHAHHAHHAHHAHAA

N-Joy

- Tim

eric2001

Life is too short to drink cheap beer!

The plastic on the doors - I was just wondering because the front doors are a stick on, and after having them off, have lost some adhesiveness. Is that a word?

I prefer the extreme to the spray, but it would be nice for the hard to reach areas, maybe a combo of the two?

As for the sub,JL won't do anything for me except the center console, and even then, I can only get a loaded enclosure (already have two JL 10W3-d2 sitting in boxes new would be a waste to buy a third). The framework under the rear seats is very limiting, I may only be able to run one sub, measurements will be after everything has been removed.

As for the hole in the floor, its the only way to run the power to the amps behind the rear seat without having a 1" snake under the carpet. Running 00 guage power cable and it is roughly 5/8" in diameter, kind of hard to hide under the carpet.

I actually have a couple of different grommets for the hole, so that isn't an issue. If you ever need, go to the local auto store and look at the valve cover & PCV gaskets.

Thanks again to you & Mike!
-Eric

seelig

have you pulled the rocker covers yet? you may find that you have more than enough room for your power cable. you only need to run your hot through there, and the ground will be right by your amp(s).......

don't send those beers to that "ballhog" in Hawaii, send em to me..
LOL

mgdvhman

nahhh...I tried that....you drink 'em too slow!

LOL

rockers.....yupper.....I ran all the Olds cables under there...worked great

- Tim

obyone

Have you checked the doorsill area? Me thinks 5/8" wouldn't be a problem. Just remove that plastic and you'll find enough room. Why are you running 00 cable? Could you find a power distribution block that could handle that size? Installing another battery and alternator? You must be going with at least a 5 farad cap. Planning on electrocuting a would be carjacker?

Check this link:

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

True dat. The plastic will lose some of its adhesiveness being removed and replaced too many times. 3M repositional Glue tape or velcro would work.

quadrunner500

Thanks for the audio compliment, but I don't know jack about car stereo. You and Oby are the champs!

http://www.jblpro.com

quadrunner500

This will get you started. You'll want to add a good sub-woofer. http://www.jblpro.com/pages/pd_series/pd162.html

seelig

i'm drinkin em now pal..........

LOL again and again

jaguar0027

ever thought of putting one of these on your Rado's??

http://www.gorancho.com/products/specialty_1.stm#Stabilizers

Especially those with bigger tires or vibration problems???

eric2001

Just checked, actually running 1/0 cable, closer to 3/4 thick, and there isn't that much room by the door sills. The original design (for the '99 which never got the stereo installed in) was max draw of 200 amps, which necessitated the heavy gage. Full distribution system, 1/0 down to 4 gage for the sub amp, then that down to 8 gage for the font amp & rear amp. This current setup (different amps) should only draw 100 amps max, so yes it is overkill, but since I already have it, WTF.

And 2 caps, 1/2 farad each, but they will probably be updated later-on.

Now if I could only find someone local to do everything without cutting corners (and for free), the beer would be on me.
-Eric

obyone

Nice stuff...dont know if it will fit in the extended cab tho.....These guys make some pretty nice stuff. Unfortunately, I would have to sell the rado and use the proceeds as a downpayment for one of their systems.

http://www.nakamichi.com

seelig

go to

http://www.carsound.com

do a search, or better yet, ask Richard Clarke about Caps. if you are running that much of a draw on your system, you most likely are way better off upgrading the alt.

you probably also know that Caps are mere bandaids and only help the bass during momentary burps. they look cool though, but even though i went from a 1/2 farad to a 1 farad, i still get a rediculous amount of headlight dimming.

i like your power ideas though, and don't see any overkill there at all. you upgrading the grond cacles as well?

like from altermator and to the cab pan?

eric2001

Running 1/0 from battery to frame, & same from ground to distribution block for amps. Better too much than too little. I figure with the dual batteries, I can get away with 150 amp alternator, and run a 4 gage line from alt to battery.

Now does anyone want to do the work for (good) beer? BTW that would be in NY Tim!
-Eric

mgdvhman

Yup...Buffalow Brew Pub...pretty good Porter....although the Sarnac was better...

Almost any microbrew is good......and uhh....you go there in your Silverado....(gotta keep on topic).

- Tim

#6094.......yeah.....sent them 3 months ago pal!.....what's the problem?..heeheee