Doing fuel filter tonight. Bought one from my dealer, not planning on bleeding.
Don't forget to do the inside passenger air cleaner. Even my low end stripper '99 silverado has 'em. Factory air cleaners seem to last forever, I got the extra capacity one, and the pressure drop indicator hasn't moved too far.
Jacobs system - the factory GM ignition system is undoubtedly far superior.....
Good point.... I was figuring on the crack and seep method of depressurizing....
My CR Lawrence winder is pretty nice, a little harder to unclip, and slides to opposite side, but better than the OEM one, as it is securely mounted in the truck, not cracked around the perimeter.
T minus 4 days till snowmobile adventure.... yahoo!
depends what rear gears you have. i have 3.73, and mine took about 2.3 quarts. this stuff was posted a ways back. from the manual, the specs are: 8.5 inch ring gear: 2.1 quarts 9.5 inch ring gear: 2.7 quarts 10.5 inch ring gear: 3.25 quarts
btw...i used mobil one 75w90 synth gear oil. that's what one of the tech's at the dealer i get serviced at told me. the gm stuff is a rip.
i've had intermittent "problems" if you will with the same deal. easiest fix i've found is exerting "normal" pressure throughout closing the door. you can push and let go like you "normally" would. keeping your hand on the door the whole time, push it closed with a moderate amount of force, holding it as it latches. i've had about a 95% first-time success rate with it.
oh, and yes, mine only does it as the weather approaches freezing...
That's what started my buyback proceedings with GM and BBB. Can't stand what effort it takes to close the doors. Service manager and tech when on test drive closed the doors to leave truck. Each guy had to slam the door several times to get it to close correctly. It was called self verification...LOL!!
that they had on the lot....guess what....no concious effort required...no extra effort....no extra thought....closed real easy....just pisses me off....
they couldn't do anything about it. there are two tsb's covering these hard to close doors. So BBB it goes to....at this point don't even want it fixed....always better to have the truck replaced anyway...LOL!!
Today i started having a problem with my rear door. It has been under 10 degrees since saturday havent really driven the truck since today. After i shut it and started driving i heard this awful squeek i first thought it was the bed of the truck but after a few minutes i realized it was the ext cab (drivers side) door. I got home slammed it a few times and it doesnt want to close tight. After 2-3 slams its fine. Hopefully its just the cold weather affecting this. Might have em take a look at it whenever i get my tail gate fixed. What the heck im still waiting for that part been 2 wks boy do i get screwed alot.
From what I have seen it is a common problem when it gets cold I have a Dodge and I can hear wind noise around my drivers side door when it gets below -30F. My friend has a GMC and his doors squeak at about -5F
Took my truck in Friday to get the rear quarter windows replaced. Also took along a list of concerns that I had, which consist of: general clunkiness in steering, clunk on take-off, oil seepage at front axle, rattle sounding noise in front of driver. Not only did they replace the rear windows, they also replaced the intermediate steering shaft, changed the transfer case fluid, replace seals to front axle, and resealed windshield. All under warrenty. Picked it up this evening. So far, so good. It's like falling in love all over agian. Know what I mean, Vern? M.
I'm out-a-here guys......Some email me if Edmunds ever get's the mess worked out......taking away placemarks was a bad mistake.......I'll be over on the Pacific audio site if needed.....
I like the new system also but it seems that it was not ready for everyone when it came on line last week,today is the first day that it all makes sense but they are still working on the system there are lost posts and every once in a while I see something and then when I come back it is gone.But it looks like they have almost got it done.
an off shoot from pickuptrucks.com? MervZ. Was there when they first opened shop. It's ok I guess. Don't know how much longer he will have his POS S10 tho....Did you check out
having problems with closing the rear doors. I read the Edmund's review and I have to agree with them in some areas. Its obvious that half the people driving the vehicle are close-minded and wouldn't drive a truck if you gave it to them. I do agree with their Fisher-Price assessment of the interior.
I know alot of you use your trucks to work out of and squeaks and rattles are no big deal. I use my truck as a commuter vehicle and for light hauling for home repairs, etc....
I guess what I am saying is if I could sell my 2000 GMC Z71 for $25,500 I wouldn't bat an eye. The truck runs and performs great but I could have bought a truck 5-7 yrs old and done just fine. Maybe then the squeaks and rattles wouldn't bother me as much.
I just purchased some nerf bars for the xcab, rado. I was wondering if anyone has anything to say about go rhino brand? I saw the Westin brand at the custom truck shop, but they didnt have any on hand. Being that I can be impatient I bought the other Brand (go rhino) the salesman said that they were a good brand. Stainless steel. any comments?
From the chevy website the Aluminum standard rims on the LT optional on the LS are 16 x 6.5" thats what it says. I am not doubting the 16X7 i think thats what i heard before i dont know why they have 6.5 on their website
Morton im sure go rhino is as good as westin. I have go rhino tail light guards and i like em. I have westin black nerf bars and they are very nice also.
4th Door. Today the thing is fine. 1 Slam and the drive to work today was very quiet. It was as cold as it was yesterday too.
I too have had difficulty closing my rear doors. The colder the more difficult. It seems the afore mentioned 'continuous pressure 1/4 from the bottom' yields the best results.
Has anybody tried lubricating the latches with graphite or some other lubricant relatively impervious to cold temperatures?
I also have some reservations about the usibility of the new format here. The placemarks were a useful tool. The question is how does one find the old posts which had information you wanted to save? This is the second format change in the past four months. What they needed to add was some sort of word search through the posts, something more than just searching the topic titles. Have they added that function?
I tried lubing the latches and hinges with no effect. Used white lithium grease. Worked it in real good too. Definitely no squeaks...just hard to close.
I laughed at him and told him that it would be true if what he said mattered. These morons....but then again the biggest collection of morons can be found at any of the manufacturer's reps or dealers...
Hello, I picked up my new truck today and in the Finance and Insurance room I was offered a 7 yr., 100,000 mile, bumper-to-bumper extended warranty for $2250.00. The finance manager really wanted me to add it to my financing, and told me that he was giving it to me at 25% off; but I turned him down, at least for now. What do you guys think? The way I figure it, the people selling the extended warranty have to be making money on them, therefore, it must be that the average consumer will not have $2250 of repairs done during the 7 yrs./100,000 miles; therefore, the odds must be in my favor that in not getting the extended warranty I would not spend as much money. What do you think? Am I figuring this correctly or am I way off base?
Hello, In looking over my manuals that came with my new truck, I notice that there is a GM Protection Plan. Is this the same as an extended warranty, or is it something different? And if it is something different, what is it?
Yep...that F&I guy was trying to sell you swamp land. 7 yr. 100K bumper to bumper runs about $1700 to $1800. You can always purchase the extended warranty at the end of the factory's if you think the history of your truck warrants it. Plus who knows what will happen three years down the line. Wish I could help you with the 2nd post but I haven't even read my manual yet, just read the yellow paper entitled "Lemon law" which the dealer gave to me when I bought the truck....
I talked to 3 dealers in MPLS area and all are seeing and know about the rear doors not shutting right in cold weather. They all confirm they know of no fix. It appears to be a body flex due to hemp changes. The older 3 doors are not a problem. The only fix would allow for rattles and wind noise when it warms up and then back to the dealer for more torture. I contacted Chev in Detroit and of course they say still no reports of problems. The gal did say in passing today without me even mentioning it that she wasn't in a position to offer a buy-back. Which leaves me to wonder if they are really aware of a bigger problem but unwilling to own up to it at this point.
One dealer called Chev Eng dept and they knew of no fix.
Guys and Gals, please contact your dealer and [non-permissible content removed] and request a formal complaint be issued to Chev by the dealer. Chef told me that this carries the most weight at Chev. Also call the customer assistance # in your warranty book and file a complaint.
If we all stick together on this maybe we can come out ahead with a fix or something.
I guess the safety factor is the biggest concern. If the door doesn't go shut then what happens if you are involved in an accident and the doors pop open?
Sorry if this is a duplicate - trying to figure out how this site works now.....
I to have been having problems with the rear doors when the temp. gets below 10 above zero. Now I know it is not just me.
Just over a week ago my truck did not want to start it was about 10 below zero. I would turn the key and and it would sound like it started but as I let the key go it would die just that quick. I tried it 25-30 times and would not start. Called 1-800-chev usa to get a tow to the dealer. Tried the truck again after 10-15 mins and it started so I cancelled the tow and it has been starting and running fine. There were no dash warning lights that came on. Any thoughts on what happend. It is a 2000 2500 6.0l. My first thought was frozen gas line. Thanks Andrew
I'm in the shop for the third time for a knocking prob. during startup. One dealership said its " cold piston knock " (in AZ during June ????) The next dealer " decarbonized the top of the pistons" This masked the prob. for awhile. Now its back and the chevy rep says do it again He's using the wrong fuel grade !!!! What a bunch of garbage. I use 89 octane Chevron, Texaco, or Mobile gas. Once in awhile I use 87 octane. The owners man. says use nothing lower than 87 octane. Th ey refuse to find, fix the prob. just clean up the results of the prob. This truck is garbage !!!!! Cheap noisey interior, the doors don't close right in the cold, the steering is loose, it's just a big piece of american engineered junk. I kick myself everyday for not buying toyota !!!!!! I would never recommend this junk to anyone. Not just for the piece of crap that it is but for the idiots making $8 / hr. that you must speak to when calling the customer service line. IDIOTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My Rear Doors are really hard to shut, I have to slam them to get them to shut properly, it kinda suprises people if they are in it. Sometimes I even have to do it more than once. It is really bad in the cold. Ryan the standard rims are 6.5", the optional rims are 7" and the factory requires them for the 265. I hope your BFG tires work out well. Im home for a month now, don't now quite what to do with myself Looks like we may be getting a five year old male Golden named Bo. The puppy litter didn't take, but mom has a friend who is having a second child and needed to get this really great dog out of her house and way as a mother again.
I am having problems closing my doors and the temperature around here is in the 80's for the most part and sometimes will drop into the high 60's. That being said, my truck is also a "THREE" door. The two tsbs for adjusting the doors which hinges are welded calls for breaking the welds. This is not easy and is time consuming. It also takes more talent than is available at your local Chevy dealer. That translates into subcontracting the job to an autobody shop. If you know of no one in upper management at the dealership, it is far cheaper to tell you that there is no fix. There is a fix. Break the welds, install bolts, align doors. Simple for the mechanically inclined
jrohr1
The solution to your problem is simple. Go to the BBB site and fill out the complaint form. This will be electronically forwarded to GM for a quick response. You will be getting a call from a GM customer care rep. These people are different from the contracted help you talk to at the GM 1-800-good for sh*t number that is available to the general public. These people are the ones that go to or conference call at arbitration hearings. Let them know you are serious. Venting in Edmunds does nothing for your situation. Start by filling out the form. BBB will send you a packet to complete. This is where you can decide if you want to pursue buyback, replacement, fix the problem, free extended warranty, whatever. Also send a certified registered letter to GM stating your problems, what has happened at your dealer, and that you want them to fix their piece of junk. Good luck.
One last thing. What your dealer says is pretty much true. There is no known fix for your problem regarding the knock on startup other than installing a new '01 motor.
Do you know you are posting your problems in the wrong topic? If you go to the main list of topics for pickup trucks, the one right below this one is Silverado Problems...I think that is the correct topic to post....
Has anyone else had problems with their turn signals and hazard flashers intermittently not working? On my '96 1500 they stop working for a week or so then work for a week or two. When they stop working none of the turn or hazard lights illuminate at all, not outside and not on the dash. Someone mentioned the turn signal switch but if that's the case why would the hazards stop working? Any help would be appreciated.
Comments
Don't forget to do the inside passenger air cleaner. Even my low end stripper '99 silverado has 'em. Factory air cleaners seem to last forever, I got the extra capacity one, and the pressure drop indicator hasn't moved too far.
Jacobs system - the factory GM ignition system is undoubtedly far superior.....
My CR Lawrence winder is pretty nice, a little harder to unclip, and slides to opposite side, but better than the OEM one, as it is securely mounted in the truck, not cracked around the perimeter.
T minus 4 days till snowmobile adventure.... yahoo!
we don't have snowmobiles here only....waverunners
Nick
8.5 inch ring gear: 2.1 quarts
9.5 inch ring gear: 2.7 quarts
10.5 inch ring gear: 3.25 quarts
btw...i used mobil one 75w90 synth gear oil. that's what one of the tech's at the dealer i get serviced at told me. the gm stuff is a rip.
bco
oh, and yes, mine only does it as the weather approaches freezing...
bco
Ryan
I noticed the same problem on my passenger rear door, but I rarely have to use it.
Picked it up this evening. So far, so good.
It's like falling in love all over agian. Know what I mean, Vern?
M.
'00 GMC Sierra Ext cab 4dr Z71 w/ 5.3
placemarks was a bad mistake.......I'll be over on the Pacific audio site if needed.....
Good luck everyone........
jed1894
jed1894@netscape.net
THanks
Ryan
GM-Trucks @ www.ezboard.com
Ryan
Check out
www.gmextreme.com
http://pub36.ezboard.com/bgmtrucks71709
Click on the top that says gm trucks and itll take you to the main screen they also have a chatroom
Ryan
http://www.gmextreme.com
Yes MERV did start the gm trucks site. I like it right now they are all better than this.
Ryan
I know alot of you use your trucks to work out of and squeaks and rattles are no big deal. I use my truck as a commuter vehicle and for light hauling for home repairs, etc....
I guess what I am saying is if I could sell my 2000 GMC Z71 for $25,500 I wouldn't bat an eye. The truck runs and performs great but I could have bought a truck 5-7 yrs old and done just fine. Maybe then the squeaks and rattles wouldn't bother me as much.
(I think I am done complaining)
any comments?
2500 - 16 x 6.5
Mike L
Morton im sure go rhino is as good as westin. I have go rhino tail light guards and i like em. I have westin black nerf bars and they are very nice also.
4th Door. Today the thing is fine. 1 Slam and the drive to work today was very quiet. It was as cold as it was yesterday too.
Ryan
Has anybody tried lubricating the latches with graphite or some other lubricant relatively impervious to cold temperatures?
I also have some reservations about the usibility of the new format here. The placemarks were a useful tool. The question is how does one find the old posts which had information you wanted to save? This is the second format change in the past four months. What they needed to add was some sort of word search through the posts, something more than just searching the topic titles. Have they added that function?
KALW
Mark
http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/
I picked up my new truck today and in the Finance and Insurance room I was offered a 7 yr., 100,000 mile, bumper-to-bumper extended warranty for $2250.00. The finance manager really wanted me to add it to my financing, and told me that he was giving it to me at 25% off; but I turned him down, at least for now. What do you guys think?
The way I figure it, the people selling the extended warranty have to be making money on them, therefore, it must be that the average consumer will not have $2250 of repairs done during the 7 yrs./100,000 miles; therefore, the odds must be in my favor that in not getting the extended warranty I would not spend as much money. What do you think? Am I figuring this correctly or am I way off base?
Thanks for your input,
Chet Kulus
In looking over my manuals that came with my new truck, I notice that there is a GM Protection Plan. Is this the same as an extended warranty, or is it something different? And if it is something different, what is it?
Thanks,
Chet Kulus
I contacted Chev in Detroit and of course they say still no reports of problems. The gal did say in passing today without me even mentioning it that she wasn't in a position to offer a buy-back. Which leaves me to wonder if they are really aware of a bigger problem but unwilling to own up to it at this point.
One dealer called Chev Eng dept and they knew of no fix.
Guys and Gals, please contact your dealer and [non-permissible content removed] and request a formal complaint be issued to Chev by the dealer. Chef told me that this carries the most weight at Chev. Also call the customer assistance # in your warranty book and file a complaint.
If we all stick together on this maybe we can come out ahead with a fix or something.
I guess the safety factor is the biggest concern. If the door doesn't go shut then what happens if you are involved in an accident and the doors pop open?
I to have been having problems with the rear doors when the temp. gets below 10 above zero. Now I know it is not just me.
Just over a week ago my truck did not want to start it was about 10 below zero. I would turn the key and and it would sound like it started but as I let the key go it would die just that quick. I tried it 25-30 times and would not start. Called 1-800-chev usa to get a tow to the dealer. Tried the truck again after 10-15 mins and it started so I cancelled the tow and it has been starting and running fine. There were no dash warning lights that came on. Any thoughts on what happend. It is a 2000 2500 6.0l. My first thought was frozen gas line.
Thanks Andrew
This truck is garbage !!!!! Cheap noisey interior, the doors don't close right in the cold, the steering is loose, it's just a big piece of american engineered junk. I kick myself everyday for not buying toyota !!!!!! I would never recommend this junk to anyone. Not just for the piece of crap that it is but for the idiots making $8 / hr. that you must speak to when calling the customer service line. IDIOTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
John
Merry Christmas
Hunter
Ryan
jrohr1
The solution to your problem is simple. Go to the BBB site and fill out the complaint form. This will be electronically forwarded to GM for a quick response. You will be getting a call from a GM customer care rep. These people are different from the contracted help you talk to at the GM 1-800-good for sh*t number that is available to the general public. These people are the ones that go to or conference call at arbitration hearings. Let them know you are serious. Venting in Edmunds does nothing for your situation. Start by filling out the form. BBB will send you a packet to complete. This is where you can decide if you want to pursue buyback, replacement, fix the problem, free extended warranty, whatever. Also send a certified registered letter to GM stating your problems, what has happened at your dealer, and that you want them to fix their piece of junk. Good luck.
One last thing. What your dealer says is pretty much true. There is no known fix for your problem regarding the knock on startup other than installing a new '01 motor.