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Toyota Tundra Problems



  • The Eaton locker doesn't make any noise during normal on-road driving.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    Many Tundra owners have installed this and are happy with it. Read this thread:


    You will have to join on the last part of the link, Edmunds does not allow links longer than 115 characters.
  • bugwizrbugwizr Posts: 50
    Genius. Velcro! I'm going to try it.
  • jmsintxjmsintx Posts: 41
    "If one wheel is up in the air, a lsd is utterly worthless." No, with an open differential this statement is true. The LSD allows limited slip, then sends torque to the other wheel.
  • jmsintxjmsintx Posts: 41
    This may help you understand how a lsd works. No thanks necessary, regards.

  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    You got to forgive Quad, he is out of his depth (very shallow).

    He calls DOHCs "thingies". Does this tell you something?
  • My 2000 SR5 Access cab vibrates between 55-65 mph. Whenever the brake pedal is pressed down, the steering wheel shakes back and forth. The dealer performed the tsb for warped rotors, and new pads at 13,000 miles. It seemed to be okay, but the steering wheel shake returned within about 5,000 miles. There also seems to be an excessive amount of brake dust on the front rims. The dealer says this is normal, but I don't think so. Needless to say, I'm very disappointed with the brakes on my truck. While it stopped well at first, the right front wheel has a distinct tendency to lock-up on rainy streets. It nearly caused an accident when I veered into an adjacent lane at the light.

    My only other regret is weak leaf springs. If I put more than about 800 lbs in back, it sags and bounces over freeway expansion joints.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    Gosh seems you guys are having alot of problems with your "perfect" Tundra's. Since everyone can out peform my 2001 Rado I guess when your brakes fail ou can really beat me. I guess It also means towing you when you leak Glycol everywhere. But you guys are just so fast!. I guess your blazing speed down the road 55-65 mph will have you flying past me but how many lanes will you be in??? Do I ne to watch out for steering shaft's flying out at me. And after you pass me and I roll down my window to say hi, should I watch out for yours falling or going down without reason(Real good to know about while driving through a bad hood) And I am not trolling, I am merely stating all the things that make a Tundra a Tundra, Since I made a mistake buying my Rado and it is a POS compared to The Tundra.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    If you're wheel locks up on you take it back to Toyota!. This can be due toa improper code to the ABS or the brake system itself. Dust, etc should not effect this. And did this problem occur befre or after your TSB and rotor fix?? The Dealersip may have messed up your brakes.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    Toyota just came out with new rotors and brake pads for your 2000 Tundra. The fix is either on the way to the dealer or it is already there. Get in touch with your dealer and see if he has the new brake fix.

    The brakes were a known problem on the 2000 Tundra only. It was a brand new truck back then and it had some toothing pain.

    Read this thread. It will give you an idea about the new fix

  • mfaudmfaud Posts: 2
    my 2001 tundra has the warping brake problem also. the dealer machined the rotors, and installed new pads. i think they all do it.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    Hmm, I had a brake vibration at around 10k miles. The dealer did replace pads, turned rotors and replaced a star adjuster on the rear brakes. I've never had a problem with lockup and haven't had any more vibrations since (I have almost 30k miles on my truck now).

    Sounds like your dealership messed up the job.

    BTW-Does your truck have ABS? Mine does not.
  • sdainesdaine Posts: 1
    I think they all do it also. At first, they tried resurfacing the rotors. Last time I got new rotors and pads. After 3 trys now, and problem always returns. A $29,000 truck should NOT have this problem, PERIOD.

    - Stewart
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I know of at least one Tundra owner whose brakes have been to comment Bama?
  • I will be looking for a new pickup this year and have narrowed my two selections to a Toyota Tundra or Chevy Silverado. I know The Reliability of Toyota and the seats and interior are not great, but what I really need to know is the towing and handling under load.I live in steep hilly country and will want to pull a 2 horse trailer up hills only a few times a year. anyone out there who uses there pickup to tow please give me the scoop. Randy p.s. trailer and horses no more than 6,000. lb
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    Let me correct myself. the 2000 Tundras and some early 2001 were known to have the problem. My 2002 does not have it. But I do not have alot of miles on my truck. Time will tell if my truck will develop a brake problem or not.

    One way to solve this problem. Is to get a new pair of rotors and have them cryotreated. I have use crytreating on the rotors for my race car and they work great. No warpping or cracking under intense use.

    I will do that on a set of Tundra rotors if mine get warpped.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    Here is your answer about the towing ability of the Tundra. Enjoy the read.

  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    Actually, the captains chairs in the Tundra are great. Most comfortably truck I've ridden in and I'm 5'11" and 180lbs.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    I know that you can't tell someone's tone over the net so I want you to know that this is NOT a flame.

    How could you race cars and cryo parts etc. and not know what splines and yoke are???

    Just curious.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    I detect a lack of belief on your part that I actually race and mod my car. Here is my proof. A detailed web site of the mods I have done to my car and the track events I have been to.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    You've just said a few things over the weeks that have made me wonder about your mechanical knowledge.

    To try to keep on topic, one of your comments on the "dry" oil filter on start up causing start up clatter on the Tundra made me raise an eye brow.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    If you do all this racing then why do you only own a 4x2?? Just curious. I would have gone for the 4x4 and not been cheap. Also why don't you trymy car sometime. It's just a little BMW, but I m sure you will beat it. Slight mods. Just an Active Autowerke conversion. But then again I'll just race ya on my 1100 and we'll see who wins. So when ya going to add the "type-R" stickers to your car and truck??
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    Would you happe to havea "Real world" Dyno test for you car??? Just curious what it makes.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    no turbo? NOS? hmmmmmmmmmmm.

    BTW, ak4x4, the remark about the type R sticker was definitely uncalled for.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    I was not making a rude remerk toward him. Many cars and even trucks seem to have a "Type-R" or type "SI" sticker on em. And yes I do know what the real versions of these car look like. It is a fact that most "Racing" type imports do have these stickers. Fact is I had one before I gave it to a pal whom put it on his Eclipse. But it is a funny sticker to seeon a Neon or I have even seen one on Tacoma. But he was taling about Drag racing a Tundra. For more downforce at speed you would need a rear wing in the bed or on the roof cab, and you wold nee "All the Mods" to make it go fast. That is a fact. But I guess you can do without the Type-R sticker if you want since everyone else has one on their Neons'.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I'm assuming you're referring to the Integra
    Type-R.....kinda confusing as it has nothing to do with I figured you was trying to be a wise a$$. Excuse me if I'm mistaken.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    Usually you're a little more literate in your posts.

    I couldn't help but notice the time of your post and the really poor grammar and spelling.

    I'm just concerned is all, you may have a problem.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    It has nothing to do with being cheap. I got a 4X2 because I do not NEED a 4X4. I live in SoCal. Little rain and no snow. Plus a 4X4 needs more maintenance and makes the truck more complicated.
    You live in Alaska and a 4X4 is a MUST.
    There is no way I can race you since you live far away. I do road course racing only. I do not drag race.
  • ak4x4ak4x4 Posts: 126
    And yes you can race me.

    I will be shipping my M3 up here from Miami thi summer. It was going to go through L.A. then onward to Seattle, then on a boat up to the port. I could make an acception as I do have family in L.A. and San Diego. But I don't think an M3 and a 200SX is a fair match. Unless I can compete against you. I don't know if you are even in the same class as me(Racing wise). I use to race SCCA in my Miata and saw some 200sx's and alot of Acuras and VW's. You tell me. If I can't compete due to rules then I guess there is no point. But I can make MIA-L.A. in two days. Done it before. Just worried about I-10 though.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    If you are really interested we can do some time trials at ButtonWillow raceway. I am will be their on the 26 & 27 of January. The event is held by You can register at their web site and meet me their.
This discussion has been closed.