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Toyota Tundra Problems



  • toddstocktoddstock Posts: 268
    I have noticed that it states to have the front tires at 27 psi and the back at 35 psi.... What do you all run your Tundra's at... I don't tow as of yet... Getting a boat this summer, but no towing as of now... TIA
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    All tires at 35 psi.
  • duckcallerduckcaller Posts: 107
    I put all mine between 35 and 40. No, I haven't noticed any measurable increase in MPG, but nowadays tires are cheaper than gas. I don't do a lot of mileage but I tow on weekends (most weekends). No problems with the higher PSI in terms of handling... in fact, I can't really tell the difference. In theory, I should see faster tire wear. We'll see.
  • bblytlebblytle Posts: 2
    My 2001 Tundra SR5 ACCESS CAB 4X2 V8 the one the dealer got me and worked on it before I even seen it well the bulletin was on how to grind the rotors and install new pads and shoes replace the adjusting star wheel in the rear and balance the tires and to align it well I still got the shakes in my hands at 35 mph I have just reached 1000 miles and I will take it in when I get some time from work. I checked the tires they are 265/70R16 Bridgestone the pressure that is in them after the dealer did all this is 27-28 psi on all front and rear not what is on the door of F26 R29.
    Does anyone tow a boat I have a 20' Ranger ask the dealer about towing in overdrive he said not to I will use big time gas in this V8 if I can't tow in OD.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    I'm sorry to hear about your problems. I would suggest going to There are some very knowledgable people there.

    You may be able to get some good advice from other Tundra owners there. I would say that if your truck only shakes when not hitting the brakes, that most likely your brakes are fine. I would look into balancing of your tires or alignment of your front end. The Tundra has hub-centric tires which requires special balancing equipment. The alignment is sensitive to the caster adjustment.

    As far as towing in overdrive - there is NOTHING in my Tundras owner's manual which advises against towing in overdrive. The manual says that the braking performance is slightly better out of overdrive, so if you are driving down any long - steep hills, it might be best to take it out of overdrive - otherwise I would go for it.
  • lman333lman333 Posts: 10

    I have a 2001 4X4 TRD, and ever since it was new, I have had a terrible click/clunk noise in the front when I take off,
    but only after the truck has been sitting a bit. I go into the
    store and out in ten minutes. Take off, and there's a clunk.
    I don't notice it any other time. But it happens 95% of the time. I have a 1989 Nissan 4X4 with auto locking hubs. To
    get it OUT of 4X4, you put the vehicle in reverse and back
    up. When you do this, there is a click/clunk sound when the
    hubs disengage. This is exactly what it sounds like on my
    Tundra, but 10 times louder! I have had it to the dealer twice
    now, and they can't find the problem. They haven't listened
    to what I have said at all, and I had to make a special trip down there to duplicate it for them, what is so obvious. I can't believe how boneheaded they are. I know it may be
    difficult to find. They are supposed to send out some specialist to take a look. Of course they haven't called yet.
    Only have about 2K on the truck now.

    Has anybody heard of such a problem??? It could be body
    flex or something that is unique. Please help, because the
    dealer sure isn't.

  • jheiljheil Posts: 30
    Hi Iman,

    Just a guess but something similiar has been discussed on Do you have ABS? The ABS on Tundra's do a self test/diagnosis when you move forward. They do this every time you have shut the vehicle down, restart and move. Its normal. Annoying but normal.

    I have ABS on mine and at first I was annoyed and then I just accepted it. It does sound odd like there is something wrong and I could see why you might be concerned. If you don't have ABS then I can't offer any help.

    Best regards, Joe
  • lman333lman333 Posts: 10
    Hi Joe:

    Thanks for the advice. I will look into that. The noise is
    extremely loud. A noise that loud could only be doing
    damage. I can feel it in my feet, and it does sound like
    its coming from the wheel well. One thing though, the
    dealer did say that it doesn't sound right. So if its the same
    problem, that will be interesting to see what they do.

    thanks again,
  • duckcallerduckcaller Posts: 107
    I've got 11K on my 2000 Tundra and towed my boat all last summer - mostly in OD. Not a bit of trouble. Your boat is approx 500lbs heavier than mine (I have a Nitro).

    My advice is that you take OD off whenever you approach hills (both for going up and down). The biggest irritation with Tundra OD and hills is when you use cruise control. The Tundra speed control is too sensitive - when you drop from 65 to 60 or so it kicks you into second gear and the engine really screams... which sort of defeats the whole purpose of cruise control to begin with. So just flick the OD off as you approach the hill and this doesn't happen.
  • cub4cub4 Posts: 11
    My coworker told me that the dealer told him to set all the tires to 35 psi. Something to do with uneven wear. I set mine at 35. Also, I tow a camper trailer (about 4,000 lbs) on OD and only take it off OD when climbing hills or when I want to accelerate. Basically if you feel the tranny hunting up and down its time to turn the OD off. ANd change the tranny flduid often if you tow a lot, every 15K miles or so.
  • cub4cub4 Posts: 11
    Learned the hard way that Tundras use 6.4 L of oil instead of the normal 5L. I should've read the manual but who reads the instructions anyway? Spilled oil all over the place. Still cheaper than paying $30 to jiffy lube.
    Changing the filter is also a major hassle. Has anybody tried relocating the oil filter with one of those relocation kits? Where did you put it? Any risks to using one of those?
  • bugsplatbugsplat Posts: 30
    Just happened to be cruising the site for some info to help a friend out and saw the discussion on the gas. Not an expert, but having dealt some with fuel suppliers from a tax perspective it is my understanding that all of the gas in an area will basically come from the same source. However, most of the terminals where the tankers fuel up have additives that they will add to the fuel when pumped into the tanker, not at the retail station, such as the "Techron" additive for Chevron, etc. I'm not saying it won't happen, but it is not very likely that a tanker which stops at a chevron, shell, or other major brand advertising a special "additive" would stop at an independent station unjless that station sells gas under that name brand. Once you get away from the major brands that have their own special "additives", yes, the tanker may fuel up several stations under varying names. Also, it's my opinion that there is really no such thing as "cheap gas" as it call comes form virtually the same source. However, fuel can become contaminated even after it reaches the stations. All those in ground fuel tanks that stations get into trouble for leaking fuel out also have the potential for stuff such as water leaking into the tanks. Excellent point on fueling up while the tanker is there. Don't do it.

    Now as to why I was cruising the site to begin with. Friend has the Tundra Xcab 4wd V-8. On a few occasions after disengaging the 4wd, the 4wd dash light will begin flashing. He's tried engaging, disengaging, etc. to get the light to stay on or off, but to no avail. Usually, after the truck has been turned off and set for a while, the light re-sets. Toyota has already replaced the "actuator switch" but this hasn't cured the the problem. Anyone else experience this?
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    Is your friend engaging 4HI or 4LO? Getting in and out of 4 hi is pretty easy. Just put it in 4HI when going <60mph and take it out when stationary.

    Getting in and out of 4LO is not quite as easy. There is a sequence you have to follow which is contained in the owner's manual and is also printed on the driver's visor. If you follow these instructions it works every time (at least it has for me).
  • bugsplatbugsplat Posts: 30
    Has happened in both. Followed the sequence in the manual to a "t". It seems as if the 4wd is disenaging, but something is still amiss as the light just keeps flashing, and then you can't get it back into 4wd. It is an intermittent problem, but he was able to re-create it for the dealership, and that's when they replaced the "actuator". Doesn't seem to have solved the problem though.
  • duckcallerduckcaller Posts: 107
    I have no problems like yours. When I got my Tundra a year ago I immediately played with the 4WD button and had to read the visor instructions regarding getting it in and out of 4 LO. 4 HI wasn't any trouble, but LO required a complete stop and a shift to neutral to go in or out.

    I believe Toyota's 4WD sensor (that would make the indicator light turn on solid or blink) is located at the hub - not the actuator. Could be that your friends Tundra has a bad sensor at one or both of the hubs or that either of the hubs is not engaging or disengaging properly.
  • reddogreddog Posts: 3
    Does anyone know what the tire size limit on the Tunrda V8 4x4? Will this affect the MPG if I install tall wheels and tires? (+) or (-)MPGnumbres?Will taller wheels and tires restrict the turning radius? I would like to install 17 or 18 inch wheels.
  • dano44dano44 Posts: 1
    My buddy and I both have new 2001 Tundras (stop me now from waxing lyrical.......), but we've got a question for you experts. He's got 6000 miles on his (I just got mine and only have 400 miles) and decided to change the transmission fluid. He drained it and got a tad more than 4 quarts out. He checked the book and it says it takes 2.1 quarts to fill! He called 6 different dealerships and, you guessed it, got 5 different answers - the two who agreed suggested to go by the dipstick. When he did that - he was able to put in a bit over 3 1/4 quarts which got it to the top "cool" mark (obviously checking the level when it was cool). He asked me to check my level since my Tundra is only a week old. My factory level was about 1 1/4 inch ABOVE the cool mark (yes, the engine was definitely cold).

    So, what gives? 2.1 quarts, 3.3 quarts or 4+ quarts? And, wonder why the dealer service guys didn't give the same advice? Oh, when he called Toyota - they said he needed to call one of their authorized dealers who would give him the right answer!

  • chirravuchirravu Posts: 106

    The only problem with my Tundra is - it never gave me a problem though it ran 40K mostly hauling miles. No wonder its the best Full size pickup


  • jwhaelen1jwhaelen1 Posts: 27
    My tundra can't tow squat. Final answer.
  • suncarriesuncarrie Posts: 8
    I am thinking of buying the limited 4X4 Tundra. I know that Toyota is know for its reliable trucks but I was wondering what the case is on these trucks (since they haven't been out too long). I love the look and I liked the way it drove. I would like to hear what anyone else has to say about them (espeically if you own one). It will be used to drive around town, tow (two large jetskis) and I will drive it skiing. Also, I would like to hear what people get for gas mileage. My other option was a Dodge Ram 25000 Diesel 4X4 mainly for the gas mileage (I like the look too). Any information anyone has to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    The Tundra will certainly haul your jetskis with no problem. I have a 2000 SR5 and I have 19,000 miles on it. It is very smooth, has excellent brakes (best I've ever felt on a truck) and a gem of an engine. I know some people have complained of vibration problems and a thunking problem. I haven't experienced any of these though. One thing though, the dealer recommends you rotate the tires with each oil change (every 5,000 miles) which I have adhered to.

    I did take my truck in for the brake vibration TSB at around 8k miles. They replaced pads, turned rotors and replaced the star adjusters (I think) in the rear brakes. I haven't had any other problems with the truck.
  • suncarriesuncarrie Posts: 8
    Thanks for the input. What kind of gas mileage do you get both around town and highway? Also towing if you ahppen to do it.
  • johnmeijohnmei Posts: 44
    Folks- I need some honest advice. I am sold on Toyota quality, reliability, OK. Currently own an Avalon. My wife and I are retired and live in Maine. We need to know how good the Tundra 4 x 4, V8, automatic is in snow/icey conditions. I noticed at a dealer that the off road package has different tires with more aggressive threads. Better in snow? We live where we must go up and down a fairly steep hill with one switchback and a 90 degree turn. We are considering a Tundra vs a Subaru Outback with snow as the ONLY consideration. Would also like to know the Tundra's true gas mileage experience, highway as well as around town.

    In advance, I thank you for your time and responses.
    John (
  • tk314tk314 Posts: 1
    Anyone else had a problem with the headlights being stuck on? Even with the headlights and iginition switches both off, the headlights on my 2000 Tundra remain on. Had to pull the fuses to save my battery. The dealer is looking at it and says that it doesn't appear to be an easy-to-find problem.
  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    Did they disconnect headlight switch? If not try it yourself. If the headlights go off, problem in switch, if they remain on, sorry, have to get further into it (try the headlight relays then?). Hope this helps.
  • kit1404kit1404 Posts: 128
    Even though it is smaller, it has the same ground clearance. Don't really know, but from what I've heard, it is almost impossible to get a Tundra with limited slip rear. I drive and have driven 4X4 Ford trucks in the mountains of NM for over 20 years. In ice and snow - with some weight in back - they are great, assuming they have the rear limited-slip and good traction tires. Without a rear limited-slip, would opt for the electronically sensing Subaru. They are fuel-efficient and work well in snow/ice unless you get into so much snow that you need some real power and then you probably needed chains anyway.
  • notthemamanotthemama Posts: 11
    Had my Tundra LTD 4X4 for about 6 months now with a few minor complaints, and wondering if anyone else out there has seen the same things:

    1. The driver's side seatbelt assy. makes a "creaking" or "clicking" noise at my left ear during driving, but I can't duplicate the sound when I pull on the belt by hand. Guess I'll have to have the thing replaced?

    2. Almost anything placed in the top center console section rattles. Seems like Toyota would have made this area a bit more noise-proof.

    3. Seen similar postings, but VERY disappointed in Toyota making ABS so scarcely available on the Tundra. This is standard equip. by almost every other truck manufacturer.

    4. The ledge along the driver's window isn't wide enough for me to comfortably rest my lazy arm/elbow when I'm driving with my left hand......and eating with my right.

    5. The height of the center console could have been raised (like in the LC) to a height where you could rest your right arm.......heck, how does Toyota expect anyone to sleep while driving this thing!

    Don't get me wrong, just little fish here. I've owned numerous Toyotas over the years and over-all, couldn't be happier with the Tundra.....even about to go into 10 years debt on a new Sequoia this week. If someone can't float me a loan, then I'll have to sell-off my first born.
  • gr8ful40gr8ful40 Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 2001 SR5 4WD Access cab with TRD. I have noticed that the truck seemingly jerks when revving between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM in each gear. It is like a vacuum secondary on a 4 barrel opening and closing a few times in this range. Before and after this RPM range, it runs very well. If you feather the pedal, it will accelerate fine, but near the floor it jerks. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Also, the truck is not a streamer off of the line at all. I cannot get it to break traction at all from a dead stop (like in the commercial :p ). Does anyone else have this same problem as well? Other than that, the truck is great and I get 15 MPG thus far.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    The problems you have with acceleration between 2000 and 3000 rpm are definitely not normal. My Tuenra V8 accelerates like a bat out of He** in that rpm range. No problems.

    I suggest you see your service advisor ASAP
  • notthemamanotthemama Posts: 11
    I can't say I have a jerking problem in the 2,000 - 3,000 RPM range you described, but my Tundra LTD 4x4 is "weak" if not hesitant from a dead stop and I don't break traction either unless I'm turning a corner or its wet! It doesn't exactly throw your head back. However, after the initial weak start, it accelerates adequately and smoothly through the RPM range.

    I've seen other postings at about lack of low end torque so you may want to check there. Hopefully, Toyota is reading this stuff and will offer some solutions going forward if not modifications to exisiting vehicles. I know a superchager for the tundra is in the works, but I don't know how much this is going to improve the first split second of a full throttle start - maybe that's the fix? FYI, I have 15,000 miles and avg. 16.5 MPG overall.
This discussion has been closed.