I think the noise depends on how and where you drive and what axel ratio you have. I have the 3.73 ratio; some V-6 trucks came with a numerically lower ratio. The lower ratio would just make the problem worse because the engine would be operating at lower RPMs more of the time.
I also think anything you do to try to prevent the noise will lower gas mileage slightly, such as making the trans downshift, using third gear, or tow/haul. The truck is getting the best mileage with the engine turning slow with the torque converter locked in overdrive. Trying to get the best gas mileage is basically why our trucks make this noise.
If the noise really bothers you, I would follow GMs recommendation to use third gear in town or on hills. It will not harm the truck in any way. I use third gear with my V-6 when I tow, even at continuous speeds of 70 mph. You could also try to give the truck more gas when in overdrive to unlock the torque converter, but not so much that it will downshift to third. Once the torque converter unlocks you may be able to ease up on the gas without having the converter relock.
If you do not want the noise, another solution is to use a "chip" that can be programmed not to lock the converter at low RPMs. I have not used one, but I think other guys on here have. It maybe possible that GM has a software upgrade that alters the converter locking, I would check with the dealer for this. If they do, they can reprogram the truck computer without removing any parts.
doesn't work. What it does is downshifts to third with less pedal effort. The truck will still shift back into OD once you lessen the pressure on the pedal.
The Hypertech power programmer for changing shift points works only at WOT and does nothing for regular driving conditions.
Using the tech2, the dealer would be able to adjust the shift points manually. However, the truck will return to regular programming once the tech2 unit is removed.
What comes to mind is the long term effects of lugging the engine.
I don't agree that it will not work. GMs solution was to shift the trans out of overdrive...that will work!!!!
There should be no long term damage to the engine or the rest of the driveline. GMs truck engines are well designed and can take a lot of abuse. Pinging can be a problem at those speeds but these engines have knock sensors.
Hmm. After turning into a parking lot in 2Hi mode and hearing a new noise start in front...kind of a rubbery popping sound correlated to speed...first day it was relatively warm after a cold snap....I headed for the dealership.
Of course, that particular noise stopped by the time I got there. I had them check out the noise in 4Hi, which was still there. No dice. GM has a tech memo out stating that this is normal in 4WD systems dating all the way back to '88. I'll have to try a second dealer and see if the story is straight.
If still the same, I might file BBB for the ridiculous noise and no fix. Won't get rid of the truck, but hoping to juice up the warranty coverage for the front driveline.
Thanks again,,, your post has really helped me understand the noise alot better ,yes I can live with it but you know how it is when you get something new and notice something strange,it does bug you ,well at least I got an extended warrenty for their failure to explain it and now have alot better understanding of the cause,,, you know I really wasnt interested in getting something for notthing(ex.warr.) but I felt I deserved a better answer from GM than ''Sorry No Fix ,NEXT!!!...I feel like calling that GM rep(Tina Scheir) and shareing this info. with her ,then again she proably couldnt care less......
I have a new (500 miles) 2002 Chevy Silverado LT Sportside. The truck bed does not appear to be level.It appears to slope slightly to the driver's side. Any comments on this situation (cause,repair,etc.) prior to my taking it back to the dealer. Thanks.
If you stand at the rear of the truck, the top of the tailgate leans to the left (drivers side). I put a level on the top of the tailgate and it is not level. The bumper is not level also. The front of the bed by the cab does line up with the cab. The distance between the top of rear tire and lip of fender is abut 1/2 inch less on the left side (7" space) than on the right side (7 1/2' space). The gas tank is full, which some other posts suggest cause the lean due to the weight of the gas. However, I do not think all 2002 Chevy trucks lean to the left. I do not know what happens to the lean when the gas tank is near empty.
Any suggestions or comments? Going back to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
I just filled up my gas tank - when I measure from the wheel well to top of tire it is 6 7/8" on the left (drivers side), 7 1/4" on the right.
My truck is a 99 Z-71 X-cab with 30K miles. I wish I would have measured this distance when truck was new - I wonder how much my truck has "settled" in 3 years. Using your truck as a guide looks like about 1/8 inch - I would have expected more - but then I have only overloaded it a few times.
When your tank is 1/4 full it will be the same on both sides. A full tank must weigh 150-175 pounds.
Does anyone know what happened to the site that had GM tech bulletins? Last year there had been one posted on this topic and I have used it to have several updates done on my truck. Did the address change or was it taken off the net? Thanks. Oh, and even though I haven't been around for a while, it is good to see that Bama is still wasting time here.
not sure why your truck is leaning. i have a '00 and a '01 and both trucks measure equal height at front and rear wheel wells. i checked mine when new. also, since the fuel tank is mounted inside the frame, it's not going to make the truck lean.
Check your measurments when your tank is 1/4 full - it will be level. The weight of the fuel does make a difference - at least on my truck - and by the sounds of it yours too.
seelig - not calling you a liar - but don't see how an extra 150+ pounds on one side of your truck would have no effect. The tank is inside the frame but far from being in the center. I can even see a small difference in the amount of "squat" in the rear tires when my tank is full. But I normally only have 32 PSI in the rear tires.
The way I see it 3/8 -1/2 of an inch side to side is no big deal anyway.
both my trucks (1 is LB) must be different than all the rest.......wheeew, just filled up the long bed (34 gal. tank) and you may be right as the left side did drop almost 1/4". personally, it doesn't bother me, but i have seen a few rado's that did lean, both ways i might add. so for the sake of a Bama style comback, let's just say that you are right.
Seems that when Chevy changed engine designs and truck bodies in 1999, that was the end of the Chevies that I counted on. I have a 1998 with the old vortex and very few problems. Now I am ready to get another truck. After reading and hearing about the things that GM is pulling, I won't be buying Chevy any more. Its not the same. I have had strange things happen with my 1998 Olds Intrigue, which took 2 years of arguing with GM to get fixed. Its not worth it. If you read the post from the Ford guys you don't see this crap. My money is going with FORD, something I thought I would never do. Believe me, I was a real dye hard GM fan. Not any more.
I definitely think you're making the right choice. Oh, and some posters' comments should be taken with a grain of salt - especially Chevy lemon owners with buyer's remorse who wish they would have bought something else too, right obyone?
Same here on the new wheels. i hope your new Ford lasts longer than mine did. they were pretty good about fixin all the stuff that broke though. like 2 trannies in less than 80K, 1 blown head gasket, 1 leaking radiator, timing chain, water pump, fuel tank that leaked if you filled it full, 2 sets of rotors(ate 4 sets of pads before 30K), 2 radios, 1 A/C pump, and both PW windows were replaced. got rid of it before it reached 84K, cause i could no longer spend the time taking it in. but other than, Ford is truly a spiffy product.........good luck!
Something to remember...in the pre-1999 era, sites like Edmunds weren't in full bloom yet, so other than what you heard from your neighbor, there was no resource for information such as what is posted here. I would like to assume that the majority of the people that post here are looking for answers to problems. If you don't have a problem, then you don't post...so we probably represent a very small percentage of Chevy owners; after all, there are about 200 very picky owners/poster on this site, out of hundreds of thousands of post 1999 Chevy owners.
I know that all the other major manufacturers have similar sites with similar activities on Edmunds and elsewhere. Good Luck
ps. if you end up buying that Ford, get yourself a couple a newspaper and magazine subscriptions with it. You'll need something to read for all the time you'll spend at the dealership (I know that I did)! LOL
doscar, GM has sold something like over 1.5 million of these newly designed trucks since 1999. And like PUNJAB said, some get lemons or have problems with their trucks and then look for answers and post messages in sites like this. But overall I feel that the percentage of problems listed here or in other sites versus the number of trucks that GM has sold over the past 4 years is minuscule at best. My best advise is to thoroughly go over any new vehicle that you buy, regardless of make, with a "fine toothed comb". And spend as much time as you need to do so while the truck is sitting on the dealers lot and during your long test drive. I did that with my 2001 Silverado (2 hour inspection, 1 hour test drive) and the only problem I've ever had was a small squeak in my drivers door. A shot of grease took care of that.
plutonious, It's always great to hear your 2 cents worth of advise in these topics since you DON'T actually own a Silverado or Tundra. It's good to get that unbiased, non-owner perspective every so often. Are you ever going to burry the hatchet with obyone?
from someone who owns a one star side impact rated truck. That tells a lot about the individual. Either lacking money to buy a new one or brains to figure it out.
I agree that many owners post here for solutions to their problems. I am a little different because I have never had a problem up to 16,000 miles which is what I have on my 2001 8.1/Allison long bed. It has been a GREAT VEHICLE. I am thinking about buying another in 2003. cowboyjohn
Count me among the legion of GM lovers. All I had was a slightly warped rotor that the dealer fixed when the truck was less than a week old. I now have almost 12k on it after 17 months and I absolutely love driving it. The Autotrac has been flawless for two Alaska winters now. The Dynamic Brake Proportioning and ABS make for sure stops on snow and ice. Great truck that is a joy to drive.
I think you can find TSBs posted on the National Highway Transportation Safety Board website. Just type all that into a Yahoo search to get the address.
my 99 z 71 reg. cab short box 5.3 auto makes a clank noiuse when i put it in D or R. 38,000 miles. The deale rhas pulled the drive shaft and says it is within specs? Any ideas what this could be. It also doe sit sometimes shifting between gears up/down.
a few of us have gone through this.........you sometimes have to show your dealer how to fix these new trucks. give him a hint by telling him that there is a grease fitting that you squirt grease into on the driveshaft. this lubes the splines and eliminates this clank you are talking about. BTW, the toyota Tundra is the only truck that i know of at this time that is having problems with universal (or spider) joints.
I had always thought that the black paint on my silverado was very easy to damage, but kind of wrote it off as "that's the way dark paint is".
However, last time I washed it, the sun hit it just right, and I could see the primer through the paint along the drivers side of the bed (up near the top). I took it to GM to see if there was any correlation between the thin paint and the hundreds of chips in my hood.
The say no. They admit that the grille and windshield show no rock damage, even though the hood looks like it has been sandblasted. They will however repaint the side of the bed if I want. Any advice or similar experiences?
Also, since I have never found anything that seems to be able to clean the black plastic body molding and fender flares, I was considering having those painted also. Any had that done (or know of a way to clean them)?
The plastic side moulding is now black same as the truck. Also the dealer had a body shop repaint both sides of the truck. Imagine...no more orange peel.........for that alone, it was worth it.
As far as the side moulding, I sanded and painted two coats of black bumper paint which matches perfect color wise not quite in gloss. If you want that, I would suggest ordering a set of LT mouldings that are prepainted and are smooth. No longer does the dirt collect in those groves and easily washes out.
Since I had gone that far, I figured I may as well change out the door handles and replaced them with chrome Escalade handles....looks awesome as its black and chrome now.
2000 2500 Ex Cab, 6.0, Auto, 4:10 rear.(nice towing rig). Had the intermediate steering shaft replaced - took care of the clunking on cornering. I am waiting for my 5yr/100,000 mi component letter (bad cold engine knock). Now, I am ready to take the PU in to see if I can get rid of this vibration between 35 and 45 MPH. Can anywone give me an Idea of the crap I am going to encounter at the service department? Has anyone on this site had this problem and had a fix for it? Any info would be appreciated. By the way,I really like this PU, just need to get the bugs worked out before warr is up. Thanks
By any chance do you have Firestone tires? Does the vibration feel like the tires are kind of bouncing? I had those at 30-40 on my Denali. Dumped the Firestones and no problems.
After I got it home, I shined up a couple of more sections, and could see thin paint on the other side of the bed, as well as the hood, where the dealer said the paint was just fine (of course I was using a flashlight to accentuate the flaws).
I will be trying a different Chevy dealer regarding the paint. The dealer I take it to doesn't have a very good body shop. They removed some hail from my '99 and had to repaint about 1/4 of the truck. Then they had to repaint it again 'cause it was so crappy. Then, they were going to repaint it a third time (insurance requirment) when someone pulled out in front of the truck and I suffered all kinds of front end damage. Had a different dealership repair that. They did a good job on the paint, but they oversprayed my windows, wipers, bumper, etc... Then I sold it.
Anyone have any good experience with Chevy paint shops int the DFW metroplex. My SA told me to try James Wood in Denton. They have a brand new facility, which decreases the likelihood for crap in the paint....
I've found that most dealerships with body shops don't do a very good job at repainting or repairing collision damage (this is from 8 years working in the insurance replacement car rental industry). I would get GM/Chevy to agree to pay for the repairs and have it done at a reputable body shop. Call your insurance co. and ask for a recommendation.
Thanks seeling on the drive shaft lube info. U joints replaced and my 99' auto,4x4 Reg. cab S/B still makes a clank when I put it in reverse or sometimes when it down shifts! The guy who did the joints said it was the differential? Only 38,000 mile on it, does this sound strange to anyone?
I have a 2002 Silverado 4x4, 4.8L/auto. that since day one, has had a vibration between 40 and 45 mph. After multiple visits to the dealer (and tire changes), they are now convinced that the cause is the torque converter. Although they could not produce it, they said GM has a TSB on this problem as it affects ALL (their words) Chevy products. They offered to reprogram the torque converter to correct the vibration however, this would result in a decrease in fuel mileage to the tune of 4 mpg. Otherwise, they say there is nothing they can do. Anyone have a copy of this TSB or any other bits of advice?
I know there was a computer reprogram for a trans "growl" back in 2000. I had this done and they said mpg would go down. I didnt notice any decrease at all.
Back about 8 months ago i heard they discontinued this tsb
is to drive in "3" around town and shift to "D" on the freeway or above 50 mph. No programming is going to change the 40-45 vibration cause of EPA requirements, nothing the dealer can do with any updates. What happens is with the new programming, the throttle will be a little more responsive causing a downshift sooner back to "3".
you shouldn't be in OD anyway except when you get up to 38+ mph. AND you can shift it into D when you reach 45. For that short period of time, the mileage loss won't be that great but the annoyance factor will be reduced.
Side moldings: Painted the plastic flash chrome strip with black semi-gloss Krylon when the truck was new; same time that I peeled off all the decals/badges. Still looks good two winters later. -- Don
Regarding my earlier message (#1989), Obyone's explanation and suggested fix (although remembering to shift from 3 into D is a pain) was right on the money (no more vibration). I wonder why the Chevy service manager couldn't clearly explain why reprogramming would correct the vibration and also see that a 4 mpg decrease in fuel efficiency would be high for the minimal number of times the transmission would actually shift from 3 to OD (and converter lockup) at 45 mph instead of the present 40-42 mph.
When out on a test drive with a tech for this issue, I was told that they couldn't reprogram the trans to shift into OD at 45. It was factory programmed and couldn't be overridden. It had something to do with EPA ratings. Their tech2 unit could program shift point to 45, but once disconnected, the orginal programming would resume.
I drive in 3rd a lot while in traffic (10 of the 13.5 mile commute heading home) because of the better throttle response on accel. and quicker slowdown on decel. I have tried driving for a couple weeks straight in "D" on a couple of ocassions with no noticeable diff. in mpg.
Got my PU back from the dealer after a reflash of the tranny. Still have the vibration problem, only at a higher MPH. I go into overdrive at about 45. I don't know when this converter 'locks' up because I am not sure what I should be looking for. For those of you that tell me I should accept this vibration because there is nothing the dealer can do due to EPA, I say screw the EPA. I want a smooth riding vehicle W/O vibrations. I will be taking it back in to have them check out 'other' possibilities. And, yes, I do have Firestones. It sure feels good to get this out! You know, the women are right about...you need to talk about your problems!
As they are a POS, they could also contribute to the vibrations. Another possibility lies with the drive shaft. However, if it does start at 45, try driving in 3 until 55 then shift in OD seeing if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, it is something else. What you can also do is take the truck up to 65, shift into neutral and coast to 45 seeing if the vibrations are eliminated.
I did what you described above to a "T" and still have the vibrations. Especially in the steering wheel. I am thinking it's either the steering box, the tires, or the torque converter.
If I was to get rid of my tires... what would you recommend?? Michelin's?
Comments
I wonder how many people peek at this board looking for answers, only to leave because it has turned into a "whose truck's better" debate...AGAIN!
I also think anything you do to try to prevent the noise will lower gas mileage slightly, such as making the trans downshift, using third gear, or tow/haul. The truck is getting the best mileage with the engine turning slow with the torque converter locked in overdrive. Trying to get the best gas mileage is basically why our trucks make this noise.
If the noise really bothers you, I would follow GMs recommendation to use third gear in town or on hills. It will not harm the truck in any way. I use third gear with my V-6 when I tow, even at continuous speeds of 70 mph. You could also try to give the truck more gas when in overdrive to unlock the torque converter, but not so much that it will downshift to third. Once the torque converter unlocks you may be able to ease up on the gas without having the converter relock.
If you do not want the noise, another solution is to use a "chip" that can be programmed not to lock the converter at low RPMs. I have not used one, but I think other guys on here have. It maybe possible that GM has a software upgrade that alters the converter locking, I would check with the dealer for this. If they do, they can reprogram the truck computer without removing any parts.
The Hypertech power programmer for changing shift points works only at WOT and does nothing for regular driving conditions.
Using the tech2, the dealer would be able to adjust the shift points manually. However, the truck will return to regular programming once the tech2 unit is removed.
What comes to mind is the long term effects of lugging the engine.
There should be no long term damage to the engine or the rest of the driveline. GMs truck engines are well designed and can take a lot of abuse. Pinging can be a problem at those speeds but these engines have knock sensors.
Of course, that particular noise stopped by the time I got there. I had them check out the noise in 4Hi, which was still there. No dice. GM has a tech memo out stating that this is normal in 4WD systems dating all the way back to '88. I'll have to try a second dealer and see if the story is straight.
If still the same, I might file BBB for the ridiculous noise and no fix. Won't get rid of the truck, but hoping to juice up the warranty coverage for the front driveline.
Was the gas tank full? The gas tank is on that side and adds weight
The distance between the top of rear tire and lip of fender is abut 1/2 inch less on the left side (7" space) than on the right side (7 1/2' space).
The gas tank is full, which some other posts suggest cause the lean due to the weight of the gas. However, I do not think all 2002 Chevy trucks lean to the left. I do not know what happens to the lean when the gas tank is near empty.
Any suggestions or comments? Going back to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
I just filled up my gas tank - when I measure from the wheel well to top of tire it is 6 7/8" on the left (drivers side), 7 1/4" on the right.
My truck is a 99 Z-71 X-cab with 30K miles. I wish I would have measured this distance when truck was new - I wonder how much my truck has "settled" in 3 years. Using your truck as a guide looks like about 1/8 inch - I would have expected more - but then I have only overloaded it a few times.
When your tank is 1/4 full it will be the same on both sides. A full tank must weigh 150-175 pounds.
Many people think gm had it removed
What a shame
seelig - not calling you a liar - but don't see how an extra 150+ pounds on one side of your truck would have no effect. The tank is inside the frame but far from being in the center. I can even see a small difference in the amount of "squat" in the rear tires when my tank is full. But I normally only have 32 PSI in the rear tires.
The way I see it 3/8 -1/2 of an inch side to side is no big deal anyway.
personally, it doesn't bother me, but i have seen a few rado's that did lean, both ways i might add.
so for the sake of a Bama style comback, let's just say that you are right.
i hope your new Ford lasts longer than mine did.
they were pretty good about fixin all the stuff that broke though. like
2 trannies in less than 80K, 1 blown head gasket, 1 leaking radiator, timing chain, water pump, fuel tank that leaked if you filled it full, 2 sets of rotors(ate 4 sets of pads before 30K), 2 radios, 1 A/C pump, and both PW windows were replaced. got rid of it before it reached 84K, cause i could no longer spend the time taking it in. but other than, Ford is truly a spiffy product.........good luck!
I know that all the other major manufacturers have similar sites with similar activities on Edmunds and elsewhere.
Good Luck
ps. if you end up buying that Ford, get yourself a couple a newspaper and magazine subscriptions with it. You'll need something to read for all the time you'll spend at the dealership (I know that I did)! LOL
GM has sold something like over 1.5 million of these newly designed trucks since 1999. And like PUNJAB said, some get lemons or have problems with their trucks and then look for answers and post messages in sites like this. But overall I feel that the percentage of problems listed here or in other sites versus the number of trucks that GM has sold over the past 4 years is minuscule at best.
My best advise is to thoroughly go over any new vehicle that you buy, regardless of make, with a "fine toothed comb". And spend as much time as you need to do so while the truck is sitting on the dealers lot and during your long test drive.
I did that with my 2001 Silverado (2 hour inspection, 1 hour test drive) and the only problem I've ever had was a small squeak in my drivers door. A shot of grease took care of that.
plutonious,
It's always great to hear your 2 cents worth of advise in these topics since you DON'T actually own a Silverado or Tundra. It's good to get that unbiased, non-owner perspective every so often. Are you ever going to burry the hatchet with obyone?
Good luck on this one now.
our trucks
nhtsa and alldata are generic listings
BTW, the toyota Tundra is the only truck that i know of at this time that is having problems with universal (or spider) joints.
However, last time I washed it, the sun hit it just right, and I could see the primer through the paint along the drivers side of the bed (up near the top). I took it to GM to see if there was any correlation between the thin paint and the hundreds of chips in my hood.
The say no. They admit that the grille and windshield show no rock damage, even though the hood looks like it has been sandblasted. They will however repaint the side of the bed if I want. Any advice or similar experiences?
Also, since I have never found anything that seems to be able to clean the black plastic body molding and fender flares, I was considering having those painted also. Any had that done (or know of a way to clean them)?
As far as the side moulding, I sanded and painted two coats of black bumper paint which matches perfect color wise not quite in gloss. If you want that, I would suggest ordering a set of LT mouldings that are prepainted and are smooth. No longer does the dirt collect in those groves and easily washes out.
Since I had gone that far, I figured I may as well change out the door handles and replaced them with chrome Escalade handles....looks awesome as its black and chrome now.
I will be trying a different Chevy dealer regarding the paint. The dealer I take it to doesn't have a very good body shop. They removed some hail from my '99 and had to repaint about 1/4 of the truck. Then they had to repaint it again 'cause it was so crappy. Then, they were going to repaint it a third time (insurance requirment) when someone pulled out in front of the truck and I suffered all kinds of front end damage. Had a different dealership repair that. They did a good job on the paint, but they oversprayed my windows, wipers, bumper, etc... Then I sold it.
Anyone have any good experience with Chevy paint shops int the DFW metroplex. My SA told me to try James Wood in Denton. They have a brand new facility, which decreases the likelihood for crap in the paint....
still makes a clank when I put it in reverse or sometimes when it down shifts! The guy who did the joints said it was the differential? Only 38,000 mile on it, does this sound strange to anyone?
That makes absolutely no sense.
I know there was a computer reprogram for a trans "growl" back in 2000. I had this done and they said mpg would go down. I didnt notice any decrease at all.
Back about 8 months ago i heard they discontinued this tsb
will driving around the city in "3" cause the mpg to decrease?
-- Don
Thanks to Obyone and Ryanbab for their input.
If I was to get rid of my tires... what would you recommend?? Michelin's?