Chevy Silverado Problems

rasatherasathe Member Posts: 1
Has anyone experienced a rough idle or Shivering feeling in drive at idle. Also a pinging sound on accelarition 15-50 mph. The dealership cleaned the throttle plates decarbonized the motor and cleaned the fuel injectors. Still having the problem. The rough idle has been that way since new and the pinging started at 24,000


  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    apparently the rough idle is normal for the 6.0 as others have it. The pinging may be a gas problem. Changed gas recently?? Or you may want to change to a colder plug.
  • tfstfs Member Posts: 12
    Dealer did tsb work for throttle body , autotrac fluid, and replaced rear window latch - all on warranty. I had them replace fuel filter, change auto tranny fluid and differential fluid (180 $ total!!) Dealer said autotrac fluid change will eliminate "chirping" sound I hear on takeoffs (from rear suspension?) and the clunking sound. We'll see. Still am interested in any info you have regarding plug gap on your trucks, how you change the fuel filter(bleed the system?), and where is the cabin filter located? I have leather buckets with center console. Do you change you own tranny fluid? Is there an internal filter, or a wire screen? Is it easy to do? ANy other self service tips ?- thanks- tom
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    Is inside the cab, just below the glove box. You have to remove a shroud to get at it. To locate it, open the glove box (all the way) and peer into the crack.... you'll see the upper edge of the filter near the left side (below) of the glove box.

  • bsilerbsiler Member Posts: 30
    I have 00 2500 6.0L. I have been noticing that the gas pedal seems to be in a slight bind then it is pressed from idle. It don't do it when the engine is not running and the pedal is pressed. I'm wondering if this is similar to what you were noticing.

  • rcoosrcoos Member Posts: 167
    Has anyone with the LT heated leather bucket seats had any problems with the power lumbar...(not power back bolster) inflating ???
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    I remember months ago, some guys talking about their lumbars automagically inflating. Haven't seen anybody mention it lately. I've wondered if they might behave strangely depending on temperature fluctuations. Either that, or are people brushing the control getting in/out? I have the LT buckets and have yet to experience any noticeable changes.
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    I have a 2001 LT (heated leather buckets) and all features of the seats work well. Sure feel good on cold Minnesota mornings! Wish there was a way to set the heat to default "On".

  • cablowarscablowars Member Posts: 2
    Over the last week or so I've noticed when opening the extended cab doors in cold weather they will not close properly. I've been told there could be ice in the latches but on both sides seems really odd especially since all of the door latches are located on the inside of the door weather stripping. The doors will latch correctly after the truck warms up but don't believe it has to do with the latches icing up and if it did why would it continue day after day(first winter for the truck). I see this as a real safety concern since I occasionally have two young children in the truck hence the whole reason for buying the extended four door. Has anyone experienced any type of related problems?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I think everyone who lives in the cold climate with 4 doors has this problem. Mine comes and goes. Hasnt happened in a few days until at work today i went out to my truck to get my boots and i shut my door and it wouldnt shut tight again. If you slam it by pushing on the door itself it seems to be fine. I was in for service (i thought i broke my mirror but it was all iced up which cause it to be loose and jiggly) asnd i tried to duplicate it but with the truck being in a heated buidling for 2.5 hrs it corrected the problem it also fixed my mirror. Damn cold is reking havoc on my truck.

    How cold has it been by you? Its been well below zero here in indiana for sure.

  • cablowarscablowars Member Posts: 2
    It's been in the low teens(pennsylvania)...sure am glad I leased the truck for only 3 years. Did it because of any problems the truck might have since it was a relatively new model. Will definitely try a true 4 door truck after lease is up. Maybe by that time they'll have all the bugs out of the Avalanche
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    By the looks of the design, it will take several generations to get the Avalanche going. By then, they might just kill it.
  • cspauldingcspaulding Member Posts: 159
    I have a 2000 Chevy Crew Cab K2500 with a 454. Looking for anyone who has a newer 454 with problems. We have a lifter that is clicking (zone manager is telling us this is normal; we don't think so), also poor power (373 gears, can't even turn the tires on dry pavement). Have had/driven other 454s and never had one with problems like this. Truck has 14,000 miles on it, had it ordered in as a "dream truck", which should have the balls to do/go through some major stuff, but this one got stuck on a sandy fire lane about a month after we got it.

    Also having problems with posi (differential), 4-wheel drive lever (on the floor, won't shift-locks up), & interior. Chevy won't do anything for any of the manager says the 4wd locks in on 4th or 5th try generally, so there is nothing they can/will do. Motor they have basically told us has to blow up before they will fix it.

    After having been a Chevy lover for years (we also have an '84 K25 (in the process of putting a racing motor into that one) and a '92 K1500 (which, with a 305, suped up, and 125K miles, has more balls than the 454), I'm really discouraged in recommending a Chevy to anyone right now...attitude after the sale stinks. Anyway, if anyone out there has problems/solutions, please write.

  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    copy/pasted for ebarnhart:

    1 of 2 '99 Silverado rear end noise? Herculiner? by ebarnhart Jan 02, 2001 (08:04 pm)

    Just bought a 99 silverado 1500 I/a 5.3 auto used. Seem to hear a "flunk" sometimes when it shifts from 1-2 maybe 2-3 anyone else? Normal? Anybody tried the Herculiner compared to spray on's?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    99-07-30-009 JUN 99 Harsh 1-2 and 3-2 Shifts

    99-07-30-002 FEB 99 Harsh 1-2 Shifts

    There is also this one, but the clunk is at accelerating from a stop. Maybe...need more info.

    Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration (Flush and ReplaceTransfer Case Fluid) #99-04-21-004Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration (Flush and Replace Transfer Case Fluid)1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade1998-2000 Chevrolet and GMC K1-2 Pickup and full-size Utility ModelsWith NP246 Automatic Transfer Case (RPO NP8)This bulletin is being revised to add information to the Models and Correction sections and changesto the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 86-74-03 (Section 7 --Transmission)ConditionSome owners may comment about a "bump" feeling when the vehicle accelerates from a stop. Thiscondition usually is only a single bump feeling or single event. Do not confuse this condition with alaunch shudder condition, which feels as if the vehicle is shaking or shuddering and is a multiple event (more than one bump).CauseThe condition may be caused by a slip-stick condition between the rear propeller shaft slipyoke and the transfer case output shaft.CorrectionA new transfer case fluid has been developed to correct this condition. This blue colored fluid isthe next generation Automatic Transfer Case Fluid. This fluid contains a better friction modifier thatshould eliminate the slip-stick condition. Flush and replace the transfer case fluid on affectedvehicles using the following procedure and the part number listed below. Refer to the Transfer Casesubsection in the appropriate Service Manual for information on draining and filling the transfercase. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-001, dated April 1999, for important information onremoving the transfer case drain and fill plugs.Drain the transfer case fluid. Refill the transfer case with 2 qts (2 L) of new fluid, P/N 12378508 (In Canada use P/N 10953626). After refilling the transfer case, drive the vehicle a minimum of 8 km (5 mi). With the transfer case at operating temperature, drain the transfer case fluid again. Refill the transfer case again with the new fluid.ImportantThe vehicle may require approximately 160 km (100 mi) of driving before the condition is completelycorrected.Parts InformationPart Number Description Qty *12378508 (In Canada use P/N 10953626) Auto-Trak II Transfer Case Fluid 4 qts (4 L ) Containers *The above P/N represents a case of twelve containers.Parts are currently available from GMPSO.Warranty InformationThis procedure requires the draining and refilling of the transfer case fluid twice. To submit forreimbursement, please follow these steps.Use K4290 and put the labor time for the 1st drain and refill in the labor hours field. Put the 2nd drain and refill labor time in the other labor hours field. Submit the part number, the total number of parts used and the total parts dollars in the respectiveparts fields. This claim will require dealer self-authorization using authorization code "E." For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:Labor Operation Description Labor Time K4290 Plug, Transfer Case Drain - Replace Use published labor operation time © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • chiefthreechiefthree Member Posts: 5
    #1 of 2 Silverado shift problems by chiefthree Jan 05, 2001 (06:53 pm)
    I have a 99 Z71. My problem is with shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. I get a klunk (sounds like transfer) plus you feel it through the floorboard. The lazy, worthless mechanics I've taken it to diagnose it by sitting on their butts behind the computer. There is a TB that references drive line flunk, but mine only does it between those two gears. I fail to believe that's the problem, but they won't look further. I have written two letters to Corporate He's, numerous em-ails, and 800 phone calls voicing my disgust with this truck and their "service". Anyone else in my shoes? I've got about 33,000 on it and am ready to trade it off, I'm almost tired of the fight!
  • chiefthreechiefthree Member Posts: 5
    How can I determine how much freeplay I should feel from the transfer? When I turn the front driveshaft, I have a considerable amount of freeplay and get the clunking from the transfer. This could be a portion of my problem. Also, the dealers (two separate ones) changed my transfer fluid already, however didn't do it per TSB (driving 5 miles, redraining/filling). Could this have added to the problem?
  • racerbob4racerbob4 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone had power window problems with the 2000 /01 trucks the cables broke in 6mo. its off warenty ,the replacement unit comes with motor, cables and tracks this unit looks to be worth $300.00 cost me $65.00 took about an hour to replace ,GM must of knew this stuff was junk when they desined it to sell a new replacement for $65.00.
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    Have you gotten any more info. on your incline noise from dealer?
  • jmessz71jmessz71 Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone had problems with the seat belt "spool" inside the seat squeaking or the rear seat in the extended cab rattling when it is the up position? Any known causes and remedies?
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    File with BBB, and do it quick. You're running out of time. You can call the 800 number and write letters until you're blue in the face; it will not get your truck fixed.

    I recently filed with BBB with 29500 miles and my outcome was good. You can get the file form from the internet. Run a search for BBB and it'll come up. I've filed 2 times on 2 different trucks with BBB and got what I ask for both times.

    Good luck

  • chiefthreechiefthree Member Posts: 5
    I did file with the BBB and got results today, thanx. The Manager from GM Customer Relations called and asked about my "inquiry" to the BBB. Long story short.... They are sending me a letter stating that if I have ANY driveline failure up to 100,000 miles, they will replace the component free. That's a little satisfying, but I still want to get those worthless mechanics off their asses and from behind the computers.
  • mdrechnowiczmdrechnowicz Member Posts: 9
    I went up to Maine last week, temps below 0 and
    it took a while for me to get my passenger side
    rear door to latch on my 2000 silverado. Is there
    any service bulletin to address this as I see
    others are having the same problem?

  • eddie41eddie41 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem getting the rear door to latch when its gets very cold. Also my electric door locks quit working when it got cold. They did start to work again when it warmed up.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I had the seat belt spool squeek. I fixed it myself - only took 1 minute.

    The plastic guide where the seat belt goes into the seat pulls off -it takes a little force to get it started - but once you get it pulled out a 1/2 inch it then comes right off. Then you pull the belt to the end of the spool, and put 1 little squirt of WD-40 on each side of the plastic spool - I then let the belt retract back in and pulled it out a few times to get the WD spread out - Fixed mine a few months ago and no more squeek. The plactic guide snaps right back on -
  • salesrepsalesrep Member Posts: 17
    I too have a severe door closing problem on my 2000 4dr Ext Cab. After many calls and E mails to the Chevrolet customer assistance office, and 6 trips to dealers. I was told by Chevrolet that they had never heard of the problem nor had files with any complaints. The dealers told me that they based on working on the truck, and by what Chevrolet eng & tech told them, could they offer a permanent fix.
    I was told by one dealer service manager to bring the truck back in everytime the temp went down and he would readjust them. Real smart idea!!!

    I was ready to file a BBB complaint when I got a call from a dealer service manager and gues what Chevrolet has a repair kit available. It contains 2 new latches and some rubber part. He is waiting for them to become available from GM.

    It seems strange that for weeks I was told no problem existed and then Shazam a fix appears.

    I haven't had the work done yet, but it does appear that something is on the horizon.

    Also I am having the rear quarter windows replaced as I get a lot of wind noise from them. This is another fix Chevrolet offers (if you ask and complain)but doesn't advertise to the public.

    Seat belts squeak:
    I have had my drivers side replaced because of the squeak and now it is back. I'll try the WD-40 fix.

    The passenger side doesn't squeak, but it locks up and the passenger is trapped. What next!!!!
  • mrrogerzmrrogerz Member Posts: 22
    Well, after 8000 miles, 9 trips, 24 days in the dealer's shop, the "ping" in my 2k 5.3 Silverado Z71 has finally been fixed.

    In my earlier "Knockwurst" posts on "1999 Silverado Knock", I described the symptoms of my problem beginning at 2000 miles (pining, ticking, clicking sound @1000-2000 PM &40-50 MPH in fourth gear or overdrive upon acceleration) and the attempts by the dealer to fix it. They replaced both knock sensors, air check valve, re torqued the exhaust manifold, extensively road tested with me and couldn't find any codes or anything wrong with the engine.

    But the sound was still there. At first, I took it really easy since I didn't want to damage the engine. Once the engine was completely gone through, I tried to duplicate and pinpoint the problem, and noticed that the ticking would momentarily stop when driving over small dips while the truck was going down. Once it recoiled upward, the noise would start up again and continue while accelerating. At this point, I remembered reading a post on the Pacific Audio site on this same problem.

    Well, to cut to the chase, I printed out the fix from Bob Brim, gave it to the dealer, and they installed the new gasket to the drivers side exhaust flange between the cat and the manifold, same with the doughnut on the passengers side. PLUS, the wrapped more foam on the steering column to prevent any noise from coming the shaft through firewall.

    If they couldn't fix it this last time, I was more than ready for arbitration. Thankfully, this episode is over ;-)

    OBY, I saw your response #15 Bump/Clunk. I wasn't sure what was going on since the problem was intermittent, but that TSB nails what's happening in my truck. The dealer serviced it per the bulletin, but it didn't fix it. I'll try again. Thanks again, Roger
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Very intuitive and knowledgeable about the electrical system and creative on some of the fixes for the many abnomalies on these trucks.

    Good luck with the bump clunk.
  • bluebull1bluebull1 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a problem with what sounds like crickets in the drivers side dash board? I have had my truck for 4 months, and have never heard the like of noises out of a brand new vehicle. Wind noise is awful, and the rear doors don't close when it is cold. If any of you have any additional problems that you have encountered that I can watch for, let me know. Thank you.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    According to alldata...only about 140 of them including the three you've listed.
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    I had what you describe as "crickets in the drivers side dash board". Don't know what might be causing yours, but mine was caused by the windshield and weatherseal rubbing in the opening as the truck racks. The dealer had an Auto-glass place in town reseal and tightened up the hold down clips. Haven't had the crickets since it was done. Appearently, there's not much space between the glass and opening, so not much in the way of weatherstriping.
  • rsssrsss Member Posts: 6
    clunking and hard shift... I've had truck in about 14 times, they did all the bulletin stuff, no good. currently waiting for extended warranty. hope they can get a fix as I am not alone with problem.
  • chiefthreechiefthree Member Posts: 5
    I had a lot of problems rsss, especially with getting those lazy mechanics off their butts from behind the computers. Finally I contacted the Better Business Bureau and got somewhat satisfying results. I'm suppose to be getting a certified letter from GM stating that my driveline will be covered until 100K, no questions asked (0 deductible also). My problem still exists, but at least I'll be covered for a few more miles. Pretty pathetic when they can't diagnose though!!
  • cspauldingcspaulding Member Posts: 159
    I agree, it really gets annoying when "mechanics" can't do anything unless the computer tells them something is wrong! Guess we don't need mechanics any more in service departments, just computer programmers?

    I even had the service manager tell me that they added oil, my 2000 burnt 1 1/2 quarts. Then asked me what kind of oil I used. I told him Moil 1 - he looks at me, kind dumb, and says, "that's a synthetic isn't it?"; then went on to say, with even a stupider look, "I don't think the regular oil we added will hurt the motor."

    Gives me a lot of faith in service.
  • salesrep1salesrep1 Member Posts: 4
    More on the difficulty on the rear doors shuting in the cold.
    The servicing dealer called today and said that he has the new latches in stock, but the new striker is still on back order. These parts are the fix according to the dealer service manager.

    GM did a good job of keeping this problem a secret from the public. I did file a report with the NHSTA for the doors. I think it is a safety issue that GM does not want to acknowledge publicly.

    As soon as I can get GM part numbers I will share them with all.
    While you are in getting the doors fixed make sure you ask for the rear quarter window replacement. Thsi will take care of any wind noise you may be having. Another secret fix from GM, unless you specificly ask for the replacement.

    Good Luck!!!
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Ouch. Maybe Chevy got the kinks worked out of their 2001's?

    My wife and I are considering a 2001 Silverado 4X2 LS SB. If you have problems with your 2001, I'd like to know about them sooner rather than later.

    Also, I'd like to know how the service is at the dealers? Last time I had to go to the GM service center at the local dealership...let's just say we sold the car and bought an Acura.

  • cspauldingcspaulding Member Posts: 159
    We bought a 2000 K2500 Crew Cab. As you may see other places on this board, Chevy service varies area to area, I guess. My opinion, it stinks, at least here in Wisconsin. Zone managers are no help. All it seems like the Chev. mechanics do is check computers. I've had nothing but bad luck, and, as a Chevy customer (trucks) all my years of driving (even learned on a C10), I am discouraged and doubt I'll buy another one anytime soon.
    Lots of luck.
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    they must be giving these out like crazy ,trying to make up for their inferior product ,I am waiting for my driveline 5yr 60k war.BBB rep says itll take 6-8 weeks to get it,whats up with that?Instead of service manager checking to see if the trans computer update would help my incline noise he made me go to BBB,once I get my ex. war.Im going to go back in and demand the trans computer be checked and have the upgrade done (shifting OverDrive from 40-45 to 50-55).Anyone with GM problems should go directly to the BBB instead of messing with uncareing dealerships,maybe thatll make GM take notice or maybe GM doesnt care cause They already got your money....PS anyone else out there with the incline noise or has had the trans comp upgrade???
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    So far the only annoyance with my '01 2wd x-cab is a creaking noise from the right & left ends of the dash in cold weather (32 degrees or less)until the interior gets warm. Otherwise, it's been a good first 1200 miles in 3 months. Definately a better truck than the '00 that Chevrolet got back-vibrations they couldn't solve.
  • int73int73 Member Posts: 3
    I've had most of the problems that I have read here. Accelleration chirp, ext. door problems, etc. Has anyone had a speaker blow in the door? I have. Went to dealership and they said they would need my truck for a day to trouble shoot the problem. I said screw that. I went and bought new speakers and installed them my self. And interestingly enough, found out why the speaker had blown. Well, yes, one of the reasons was the volume of the radio at times, but after buying a manual with a wiring diagrams, I discovered that the positive and negative leads to the speaker were reversed. I verified what the positive and negative wire colors were on the schematic and did the 9V battery test on the poles of the speaker. The speaker sucked in when it was suppose to push out. So the voice coil was destroyed over time.
  • int73int73 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 00'Slilverado with 18K. The problem that still baffles me is the rattle that I get when I turn left and right on a bumpy surface at slow speeds. It sounds like plastic bumping on something in the drivers side of the engine compartment. I didn't experience this until it got cold. I noticed that the brake fluid reservoir rides on two pins. If the reservoir is rattled side to side, It makes the same sound that I have heard. I tied it to the side so it couldn't move, but still have the rattle. Does anyone have a solution for this?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What kind of speakers did you install?

    Regarding your question, do you have a 4wd or 2wd?
  • int73int73 Member Posts: 3
    I installed the Infinity Kappa60.2cs component speakers. They are 6" round drivers with tweeter and crossover. If I had it to do over again, I would put the 6.5" drivers in. They will fit in the door frame, but will not fit in the plastic clip currently holding the speaker in. Bigger is better, RIGHT? The 6" fit in the plastic clip frame with some slight modification. As far as the tweeter installation, I punched a hole with an Greenlee knockout punch in the original tweeter location.

    AND I have a 4wd Z71.
  • fried2fried2 Member Posts: 13
    Some "does yours do this" questions. Have less than 300 miles so far:

    1. Notice the engine has an intermittent shake at idle
    2. Does not have the 60-65 shake, steering wheel very stable, but notice some slight "hop" at lower speeds (say 30-40).
    3. Wind noise, haven't tried to isolate yet.

    Any recommendations on bedliner/mat, rail caps, deflectors, splash guards?
  • jkeefe1jkeefe1 Member Posts: 21
    I own a 00 Silverado that has ~9K miles and since day one the truck pulls slightly to the right at any speed. Its been in the shop twice and to no avail, the problem has never been fixed. They have adjusted the Toe and adjusted tire inflation and even swapped the two front tires. I asked about a Service Bulletin (00-03-07-002), titled Revised Wheel Alignment for this model and the Service Manager ignores me. Has anyone experienced this problem and what have you done to fix it?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    thanks for the info.

    Your description of the problem sounds like the intermediate steering shaft as it's located in that area of your engine compartment. However, it's usually felt in the steering also when going over the bumps.


    The hop, is it noticeable in the front or rear? Your intermittent shake would be diagnosed by dealer as normal. Wind noise, try checking between doors and rear ext cab windows. Good luck.
  • shiftlessshiftless Member Posts: 40
    I am going through the same problem with my GMC, Short Box, Regular Cab, Z71. This is what the dealer has done so far & the results.

    New wheel alignment. (Factory spews. were wrong)

    Intermediate steering shaft was replaced. (This gets loose at 8K miles or so & rattles).

    Steering box was replaced. (The power assist systems are not balanced & this causes a pull usually to the right).

    Now there is no pulling to either side. My problem now is not enough caster! The tires are not tracking straight ahead well enough to satisfy me. Although VERY SLIGHT, I have to correct left to right on uneven road surfaces. When the dealer tried to increase the caster, camber, toe-in, the pulling to the right came back. The system is extremely sensitive to any changes. The Service Manager is still going through GM Etch System to get a solution to the problem.

  • shiftlessshiftless Member Posts: 40
    Spell check screwed that one up. This should be easier to read!

    I am going through the same problem with my GMC, Short Box, Regular Cab, Z71. This is what the dealer has done so far & the results.

    New wheel alignment. (Factory specs. were wrong)

    Intermediate steering shaft was replaced. (This gets loose at 8K miles or so & rattles).

    Steering box was replaced. (The power assist systems are not balanced & this causes a pull usually to the right).

    Now there is no pulling to either side. My problem now is not enough caster! The tires are not tracking straight ahead well enough to satisfy me. Although VERY SLIGHT, I have to correct left to right on uneven road surfaces. When the dealer tried to increase the caster, camber, toe-in, the pulling to the right came back. The system is extremely sensitive to any changes. The Service Manager is still going through GM Tech System to get a solution to the problem.

  • morepowermorepower Member Posts: 7
    I've tried in several discussions to get feedback from others concerning one side of the bed being lower than the other. My 2001 2500HD E.C. S.B. is 1" lower in the left rear than the right. The front end is level. Anyone else with this problem, and is there a known fix?
  • salesrepsalesrep Member Posts: 17
    I had previously reported that I would pass on the Chevrolet part numbers that will fix your hard closing problem in cold or cool weather of the rear doors on the ext cabs Silverado.

    #15057687 Latch, #15057688 Latch, #15063698 Striker. The Chevrolet TSB for this problem is 00-08-64-016 Located in section 08 under Body & Accessories.

    Both right and left door are affected by this TSB.

    Up till a week ago Chevrolet totally denied any knowledge of a door closing problem. In one week they have manufactured parts and written the TSB. Amazing!!!

    Good luck with your vehicles.
  • jkeefe1jkeefe1 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for the info! I'll keep you advised when and how I get mine fixed!

    ps. Did you ever find out if the Technical Bulletin I mention in my earlier message #45 would help you out in your situation?
This discussion has been closed.