Chevy Silverado Problems



  • fried2fried2 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the reply. The "hop" or jiggle I feel is in my back via the lumbar support. Nothing in the steering. I probably won't whine about this one unless it gets worse. I noticed on the GM Truck Lemon site that in the past there may have been some attempts to reflash some of computerized control components to address the engine shake. Know anything about this?
  • serrodserrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 chev crew cab K3500. At slow speeds in rain or fog the rear brakes lock up. The front brakes appear to not function at all when this happens. Rear shoes and drums have been replaced. Dealer states that these aggressive brakes do this at times and also I don't have enough (any) weight in the box. I'm awaiting arbitration date. Does anyone have any history about this problem?
  • gsiefkengsiefken Member Posts: 14
    I want to know who to contact for big block chevy motors that use a dyno similar to some of the after market guys building computer chips for the ford diesel. I hope someone out there is experimenting with gas engines similar to diesels.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Is the engine shake you're talking about at idle or at 40 mph? There are two vibration issues that were discussed. The one at 40 mph is described as a driveline growl though it's more like an engine luggin. The idle shake is similar to a rough idle on some of the 5.3.

    Reprogramming for the driveline growl has worked for some and not for others. It was my opinion that the 1st through 3rd gears are fairly close with the 4th or OD being a little too far apart from 1st-3rd causing an area where engine lugging is encountered. Like driving a manual transmission in 4th gear when it should be in third. The reprogram adjusts throttle sensitivity and causes a downshift earlier than the stock program. Not sure if this answers your question.
  • previteprevite Member Posts: 1
    I cant believe Chevrolet programmed there trucks to shift into 3rd gear after 32 MPH when temperatures outside are 32 degrees. (to improve heater performance) This programming causes me to speed in 25 MPH zones because I refuse to drive in second gear all the way to work everyday! What a Joke these 28 thousand dollar trucks are! My question is if anyone has experienced this and has heard of a re programming bulletin so I can have a NORMAL truck???
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Since I live in Houston the temperature is normally above 32 degrees, so I am not an expert on this. The program delays the shift point until the engine warms up, then it should shift normally no matter how cold the temp is outside. If your truck keeps the shift delay even after engine is at normal operating temp then you have some other problem.

    How long does it take for your truck to warm up?

    If the temp outside is 28 degrees, I am up to 185 degrees after about 3 miles. After that the shift seems normal to me.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    One of the main reasons the transmission hold gears until the engine and transmission are warm is to keep the fluid moving at a higher rate until normal temperatures are achieved.This allows a longer transmission life.
  • cspauldingcspaulding Member Posts: 159
    RE: 454 upgrades.

    I just saw in a horse magazine that there is an upgrade for power by Banks (1800GetPower) or It says they have a free test report available at the above number. Hope this helps.

    What year/how is your 454 running? We have a 2000 and we're having some problems with it. (see 2000 chevy/GMC crew cab topic).

  • gotshimmychevygotshimmychevy Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to the guestbook on vibratin chevy problems, at least here anyway. We bought our new 1999 Chevy ls ext cab 4x4 and when we drove it home we noticed the vibration and figured it was wheel balance. Next time down at the dealer we told them they balanced the tires and we drove home thinking "problem solved', but no, vibration still coming thru the chasis up into the cab. I told the service techs that I was concerned the tires were out of round and may need shaved. And possibly the bearing would suffer uneccessary wear. Now at 10,000 we just returned, had the oil changed, registers half qt low on stick, they say it took 6 qts and is fine. Charged me to inspect the brakes to tell me they are ok. I again mentioned the vibrations, they just shrug and suggest going to Firestone and talking to them. I read a lot of specific info about similar problems with shaking at 65-75, me too, and buy backs and bbb and lemon laws and yet has anyone identified the solution? as say stabilizer bars, and why can they acknowledge the problem and just fix it? Is this a dangerous problem? Also I read on the Fed web site about air bags not deploying on impact in cases of crashes, I need info if anyone can share?
    Please email me at [email protected] I can't get a strait answer from my dealer? Preciate it Cheechnchong
  • lupanboatworkslupanboatworks Member Posts: 1
    Purchased 27 Dec, 323 miles later no oil pressure at idle. 15 psi at1500rpm. Dealer says sending unit, wrong guess--need to replace oil pump, wrong again. They ordered me a new engine. Supposedly shipped on 17 Jan--Still waiting. Ed
  • patkuepatkue Member Posts: 3
    We have a 99 chev.silverado l500 at 59,000 whole trans.went out,cost to fix $l500,do any of you know of a recall or anything on these trucks. Auto 335 engine. This is about all I know about the truck,but I am sure you can figure out which one I am talking about. Thanks for anything you can tell me. Pat.K.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Is this a 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive. There is no 335 engine. It's either a 5.3 or a 350. Do you do a lot of towing or hauling? When was the last time the trans was serviced?
  • patkuepatkue Member Posts: 3
    Yes we have the tow haul mode,use this,this is a l500,with the 350,don't know about trans.service.maybe not ever done,for all I know. thanks for any info.
  • patkuepatkue Member Posts: 3
    forgot to say is a 2 wheel drive,sorry
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The trans needs to be serviced on a regular basis. Your owner's manual will tell you the frequency. If you use the truck to tow a trailer or carry heavy loads, the frequency will be more.

    In this case, it didn't matter whether it's 4 wd or 2wd. May be a case of neglect?
  • hunter98hunter98 Member Posts: 273
    I trashed the tranny at 5k miles on my 2000 Sierra 5.3L 4x4 Ext Cab 3.73, ect. The accumulator piston blew out the side of the tranny. They never did figure out what went wrong. Seemed to be a factory defect. So loosing a tranny may not be operator error. Just a design flaw.

  • bartz1bartz1 Member Posts: 2
    A friend told me he has seen some post here about brake problems on GMC and Chevy pick-ups.
    I have 24,000 on a '98 GMC 1/2 ton.
    I noticed a "thumping" in the brake peddle at 18,000. It occurred with wheel rpm.
    My dealer, who is actually very accomadating, found noting wrong. 2 visits later, my front rotors are warped and the rear drums are out of round.
    Of course, this is caused by heat. But, I dont hot rod it. I dont ride the brakes and I dont have any stop-n-go commute.
    So, why???
    I have a friend who owns his own shop. He has heard of these complaints. He has suggested three possible problems: 1) Wrong type shoes and pads, not allowing for quick heat dissapation; 2) Wrong steel alloy in rotors and drums; and the most likely 3) An ABS malfunction.
    So, what I need is a response from all others who have experienced this problem. I will not let this slide. I refuse to turn and /or replace my rotors and drums every 18,000 because they screwed up. If need be, I am willing to take charge in filing a class action. Please email me, ( [email protected]), if you have had the same problems. Make it brief. And, if you want a response, give me a week or two. I only turn the computer on once a week.
  • cwamsleycwamsley Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Ext Cab (3 dr) Z71 which I've had in for service 3 times for what appeared to be a leak coming from the drivers front wheel well. The first time it was in they said it was just a vent hose letting off some fluid due to pressure/temperature changes. They cleaned up the wheel well and it appeared to go away. The second time which was a few months later they decided that the drivers side shock was busted and replaced it. Several months later it has come back and once again I'm getting the vent hose story. They said the hose was in a bad position and they repositioned it. I believe it is now near the top of radiator on the drivers side. There is now crap all over the engine compartment as it has been leaking for the last 2 weeks. Until today there were relatively small spots on the ground. Today I had a spot the size of one of my aluminum wheels.

    I find it very hard to believe this is a temperature/pressure thing. It appears to be a full blown leak. Has anyone seen this or have ideas? I'm at 25k and am not satisfied with the answers they have provided so far.

  • goosecop1goosecop1 Member Posts: 5
    My 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 (22,000 miles) is having problems that my dealer can't/won't fix. Two issues exist. The first is that there is a loud clunk/clang every time I shift from neutral to reverse. In addition, from every stop, there is a load clank (one time from each stop) coming from the drivetrain. I have an ARB Airlocker in the rear differential and thought that might be the problem, but the dealer told me that's not it. It exists in the transfer case and the axle set up. Supposedly due to the size of the drivetrain, there is a lot of slop and the different parts load up causing the noise. But according to the service manager, it's perfectly normal and all Silverado's will encounter this once they get some mileage on them. There is one TSB on changing the fluids in the transfer case, but this had already been done. The dealer says there is nothing more he can do. They have no further TSB's on the problem and no recalls. There should be, the truck sounds like it has 100,000 miles and bad U-joints. Any ideas?
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    cwamsley -
    My question would be what color is the fluid? Red, brown, green, clear, yellow.... Is it oil or water? This would be a good start. I had a previous GM vehicle where one one of the aluminum power steering hoses gave similar problems on the driver's side.

    goosecop1 -
    Neutral to reverse clunk. I wish I had more comments but you could try the Maintenance discussion thread as well. Regarding the start out clank, folks in the Toy Tacoma discussion experience similar problems and have come to learn that when you start out and initial torque is transferred to the driveshaft, it is followed by a clunk or loud clank. Some have corrected this by installing harder suspension components in the rear end or seeking drive-shaft replacement via their warranty.

    My advice would be to ask the Service Manager what else happens when you "get some mileage on it" since the Salesman didn't mention anything about clunks and clanks. In fact if I think back hard enough, I seem to remember something about "Like a Rock" and last time I checked rocks don't clunk and clank do they? If you find others with this same problem (and if you read the previous posts you will) there are previous posts here on how to contact the Better Business Bureau as a means to your ends.

    -Good Luck
  • rgmaxxrgmaxx Member Posts: 2
    Hello All... I have a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 Ex. Cab 4X4 I/5.3L. The motor will use ~2 Quarts of oil (5W-30W) every 5,000mi. I have had the dealer check the situation and they gave me a GM Technical Bulletin that says this level of consumption is within "acceptable" (HA!) limits.

    The truck doesn't smoke at all, there is some liter noise when at idol. The truck has 34,000mi on it now its done this from new.

    Has anyone experienced this problem, how can I get the motor fixed while its still under warranty... Help!

    Thanks in advance.
  • dead1dead1 Member Posts: 3
    a 2000 Chevy Silverado, as this is the latest year that has the manual transmission with the 4.8. I prefer manual transmission vehicles. I was wondering if anyone has any comments on this. I am new to the news group and have read about some of the problems w/the Silverado, especially the vibration problem. Does anyone think that it is a good idea to still buy this truck even though it may have these problems?
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    File with BBB now! before your warranty expires...... using that much oil is NOT normal and you should have a claim. Make sure you note in your BBB complaint that the motor has a noise. They're (GM) replacing motors for smaller problems.....

    By-the-way....don't waste your time with the GM 800 number people, or anyone elso with GM...go directly to BBB.

    Good luck....John
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I would be careful of 2000 models. Depending on how much you like the manual transmission, I would go for the 2001 models. A while back I made a comment that I would never buy a 2wd drive vehicle that had a 2 piece drive shaft. However, last weekend, while my wife was at the mall, I test drove 3 different 2001 models (5.3 auto, 4.8 auto, and the V6 auto--all ext. cabs). Guess what? they all drove great. They were all very very smooth with no hint of a vibration or sensitivity problem. I don't know what GM has done but the ride of the 01 model vs. the ride of my 00 model is totally different. I am now considering trading my 99 4x4 for a 02 model 2wd (I know Obyone I'm going to eat crow) since I really don't need a 4x4. advice....get the 01 model.

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Maybe you can get GM to transfer the Major Guard this time around and save everyone the additional paperwork and time....LOL!!

  • salesrepsalesrep Member Posts: 17
    Just got my 2000 ext cab back from the dealer who did the TSB repair on the rear doors not closing in cold weather. The truck was sitting out in the cold all day and the doors shut perfectly. Also the road & wind noise after the TSB recommended repairs is greatly reduced. Go to your dealer and ask for TSB # 00-08-64-016 and have the work done.

    Also I complained about a clunk in the driveline that happens from a start once in awhile. They did a service per the TSB that calls for the transfer case lubricant to be replaced, driven, flushed and refilled. They used something called "blue". Also lubed the drive shaft splines. Clunk is gone!!!!

    Good Luck
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    in all engine types - please give me your impressions on the performance of the V6 relative to the V8s. Did you find the V6 to be underpowered in the extended cab and unable to keep up in traffic. Are you concerned that you might someday need V8 power and not have it if you
    bought a V6? Do you think the new vortec V8 engine problems (ping, etc.) have been resolved? I'd appreciate your input, since you have had a lot of experience with these new trucks.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    First of all, I was impressed with the V6. I had a 91 V6 and pulled my two horses fine. It slowed on the hills, but otherwise it was fine. The 01 V6 I drove the other day ran down the road at 80 mph fine. I think it hit 2200 or 2300 It had plenty of power to spare. However, I did not tow anything nor did I go up any hills. For my purposes (mostly flat land driving and light trailer pulling) the V6 would be fine. However, I'd be interested in the gas mileage different between the V6 and V8 on interstate driving at 85-90 mph. I heard the V8 actually got better gas mileage than the V6.

    The 01 4.8 felt the same as my 00 4.8 and the same as my current 4.8 4x4. It was a more powerful than the V6 but not a large difference--if that makes any sense.

    The 01 5.3 was noticeably more powerful than the V6 and 4.8. The jump to the 5.3 was different (more power) and I felt like kicking it!

    Funny thing.... they all ran about the same at the 70-75 mph. I think I remember the 5.3 running a little less than the others (makes sense).

    Depending on what you want out of a truck (towing, hills, etc.), the V6 felt fine with me. However, there is one test I could not do that would be important to me: how does running down the interstate at 80-90 with the V6 feel compared to the V8s. It (V6) would have to run without a lot of stress on the motor before it was acceptable to me.

    Just my opinion, of course.... will probably doing more test in the future.

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    That's funny! LOL..... I think I've gotten all the warranties I can get using my real name. I'll have to use an alias on the next truck I buy, or put it in my wife's name. I'm sure my name is black flagged at GM.

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    Your first paragraph states that "The 01 V6 I drove the other day ran down the road at 80 mph fine." but later you say "how does running down the interstate at 80-90 with the V6 feel compared to the V8s. It (V6) would have to run without a lot of stress on the motor before it was acceptable to me." I'm not sure whether you did or did not run at 80-90 mph with the V6, but I have occasionally done so in my reg. cab 2WD V6 and it didn't seem stressed at all. Of course, with a heavy load or trailer in tow the story could be different, and I had a regular cab (lighter than an extended cab.)
    I was curious about gas mileage in the V6 extended cab also. I am getting 20 city/27 highway in the reg. cab - but that is with very careful driving. I think strictly highway driving would exceed 27. I wonder if the extended cab would do as well.
    I suspect the V8 might get better mileage with a heavy load or towing, but I doubt it - my guess is that you would just have trouble keeping your speed up with the extra weight - what was your gas mileage difference in your 91 V6 under those conditions?
  • aebertaebert Member Posts: 14
    I have a 01 GMC and thought it was my imagination about the rear doors not shutting all the way when it was cold. It was driving me crazy with the rattles. I ended up adjusting the latches to pull the door tighter. My rear windows creek also when it is cold(5 beg. and below). I also have my steering wheel squeak when it is cold but once the truck warms up inside it goes away. I haven't read anyone else having this problem. I am also wondering why when you are going 67 mph that it will not downshift from I/I to 2 to get you moving. It will only go from 2k ram to 3krpm. No big deal but sometimes you have to merge and kick it in the butt!!
  • salesrepsalesrep Member Posts: 17
    Rear Doors.
    Read back a few messages and see my post with the Chev TSB# and replacement part numbers that the dealer will fix under warranty. No need for you to be doing your own adjustments on a 2001 model. That is the great thing about a new truck. The tools get a rest.
    The doors shut fine after I had the TSB work performed. No more rattles plus a lot of the wind/road noise went away.

    Good Luck.
  • gordy5gordy5 Member Posts: 3
    is any one out there familiar with the engin vibration shaft that runs thru the v 6 engin like a cam shaf. my 99 silverado sounds like a meat grinder at 1500/1800 rpm. i have been waiting for a fix from gm tech since 18000 miles i only have 3000 miles left on my original service guy says not to worry if something breaks they will fix it since it has been documented?thanks gordy,,,,,,,,
  • gordy5gordy5 Member Posts: 3
    is any one out there familiar with the engine vibration shaft that runs thou the I 6 engine like a cam shad. my 99 silver ado sounds like a meat grinder at 1500/1800 ram. I have been waiting for a fix from am etch since 18000 miles i only have 3000 miles left on my original service guy says not to worry if something breaks they will fix it since it has been documented?thanks gordy,,,,,,,,
  • jbcolljbcoll Member Posts: 3
    those people that work at the bbb are a bunch of people who don't have a clue about trucks.the bring in this arbitrator for me that is a bank manager,the guy from gm tells her that its not a safety issue therefore they should not have to buy it back. and she agrees.what a bunch of crap.
    I work for gm ,I contacted a executive of gm twice and you know what he told me?we know we have a problem with these trucks for 2 years and we don't know what it is,and he told me he would deny it if someone ask.the Vibration problem.
  • lwittorflwittorf Member Posts: 96
    I have to disagree with you on the people at the bbb I just had my 2000 silverado bought back with the efforts of those people. Yes they do use people from all walks of life to do their medeator work but if a person goes in with the facks and knows what he[she]is talking about they will and do get the job done or at least they did for me and one other that I know about. Also it could be because of what state you are in mine is Wash. I understand that each state is different or can be on the lemon laws. I surmise that is what you were using after 15 times in shop.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    A suggestion, check with either your contact at the BBB or your State Attorney General's office. If I'm not mistaken, if you're not satisfied with the arbitrator's ruling, you CAN pursue the lemon law as the arbitrator's ruling is binding on the manufacturer but not the consumer. A pursuit of a buyback is not the same as a lemon law claim. Buyback is a voluntary repurchase of your truck by the manufacturer, even though it may be the arbitrator's decision. The manufacturer can resell the vehicle WITHOUT a lemon law disclaimer. Under the lemon law, the manufacturer will be required to disclose that it was a lemon.

    Good luck
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Sorry about confusing post......I did test drive the V6 at 75-80, but for only about 5 miles. I'm just wondering how it would hold up driving about 1000 miles at interstate speed (80 mph). I'm sure it would be okay. I drove my 91 V6 all over the country at high speeds and it did fine.

    I can't remember the gas mileage I was getting with my 91 V6 (it was a reg. cab), but I think I was getting about 20 or so. I can't remember for sure. Sounds like you're getting great mileage with your V6....I'm getting about 16.5 (average) with 4.8 4x4 driving 75-80 on highway.

    I think the V6 is a fine engine and when I but another truck, I'll probably get the V6. However, I seem to change my mind pretty often....... by-the-way, I drove another V6 (ext. cab) Saturday and I noticed it had a ticking motor noise...kinda like what I have now. The dealer (of course) said it was normal (it had 3 miles on it) -- my response was: why don't they all do it if it's normal? The V6 I drove prior to Saturday purred like a was nice and quite. It did not make me feel good knowing that new 01 GM motors still had the tick/motor noise. It may have just been that one.

  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    I own a V6 4x4 2000 and after going round and round with dealer and GM,I have come to the conculion that ILL keep this one but NEVER buy another GM product again.In drive going up a slight incline the truck will lug producing a rear end chatter noise,GM and dealer blame it on the V6, saying there is no fix and that the trans comp upgrade would do me no good TSB#990730024 ,I did get a ex. war.5yr 60k from GM threw BBB,buts thats not the point the point is that I now have a truck that needs to be run in 3rd to run good on alternating road conditions(flat to inclines).The kicker is that I had a 79 chevy V6 trk with a zillion miles that had more pep than this new V6 200hp trk.I understand that this has to do with GMs trying to keep good gas mileage figures but I think they need to reevaluate their driveline- gearing.... ps I spoke to service manager again today 01.29.01 he told me they got another V6 rado with the same problem but thats its worst than mine guess I should be happy???? My 2 cents......
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    My V8 4.8 4x4 does the same thing on inclines. However, it did not do it until GM updated the tranny program. It used to hold in a lower gear going up hills until the computer flash. Now it lags up hills unless I make it shift to lower gear. .....just my .02
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    that is what is killing GM with me, they try to bull**** you into thinking that only one class of trk has a problem when in reality it is a product defect across the board,has anyone givin you a better outlook than ''youll just have to live with it''.Are you having your trk deprogramed?Is it fine in 3rd gear?I also have to depress gas pedal to floor to make it downshift to get up an incline.My automatic nissan pathfinder w/V6 glides up inclines without hesitation and doesnt run under 2k rpms in ''drive''......
  • mpant1mpant1 Member Posts: 1
    Just as in message #41, my 2000 silverado makes a ratteling sound at slow speed when turning right. I sounds like plastic ratteling. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Does anyone have any idea what it could be?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    From what I've noticed, an increase in HP somewhat cures the "lugging" effect. Prior to upgrading the engine with boltons, I had the engine lugging while in OD. After the boltons, it has disappeared. Not to say that everyone should take this route, just that it seems to be one solution.

    '00 Silverado xcab 5.3 3.73

    Now, if I can only get rear windows that don't leak air. Had the new ones installed and worked fine for a couple of weeks until I noticed a substantial amount of wind and road noise. Checked the passenger side rear window and have a seperation of weather stripping from the window itself. Was tempted to use silicone, but won't let GM off the hook that easily.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    You problem sounds exactly what my truck is doing. After I had the updates, and noticed the poor shifting/lagging, etc. I called back and asked if I could reverse the program--the reply was "no" per GM guidelines. I don't know if he was BS'ing, but he said the new program covered alot of other items and he could not go back and change. He may be correct, but GM's track record on being honest is not high. I should have not touched the program, but I was hard headed and thought the new program would help the tranny clank.

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I know you've checked this but............ after replacing my rear windows, the wind noise was still there. So I decided to fix the problem myself......... I had the wife drive me down the road at about 75 and I rode in the back seat (I know----not a smart move----I had to have a few cold ones before I allowed her to drive that fast in my truck and me in the back seat). Anyway, the wind noise was coming from the 3rd door joint/jam--it was not the rear window. I haven't figured how to fix the problem yet.....I'm thinking it could be coming from the rain deflectors/guards over the window. ...... What you think?

  • salesrepsalesrep Member Posts: 17
    I think you will find that the wind noise is not coming from around the rear windows, but at the point where the rear of the front door meets the front edge of the rear door. Listen up by the plastic interior trim where the upper latch is. Then look at the seals. Not much there to stop the noise transfer. It is not actual wind noise but rather noise being carried through the rubber.
    A fix would be nice.
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    what parts are they?and at what cost? are they ''do it yourself add ons''?,U think they would have em for v6?how much of an increase you think you got?Where do you get them (on-line supplier)??????Thanks So many questions so little money lol.....
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Yes, it could be from between the doors also. However, in my case, I have to repair the window cause it's kind of unsecured right now. If you press from the inside on the bottom of the window, you can push the bottom half of the window a 1/2" out and if I really leaned on it....they have ordered another window. When it comes in and installed, I'll take a test drive with the shop foreman who is all familiar with my truck and we will see. What I've also noticed is that when driving on the freeway, I've tucked the mirrors in and it reduced the wind noise substantially. It may be a combo of the wind deflectors and mirrors.


    Most of the performance bolt ons that I've seen is for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0. I haven't seen any for the 4.3. I'll do some quick searching and see what I turn up. What will probably happen, I'm just guessing, is that you may have to modify bolt ons for the S10 as I've seen quite a few for them with the 4.3.

    My engine mods:
    Granatelli MAF $300 10HP
    Airaid $275 8HP
    Torque Master Plugs $95 6 HP
    Magnecor Racing Wires $115 5HP
    JBA headers $500 15 HP
    Hypertech III Performance Programmer $300 10HP
    160 degree thermostat $45 2HP
    Power Vault Catback system $525 20HP


    Roadmaster Active Suspension $200
    Edlebrock Shocks $300
    Velvet ride shackles $150
    Michelin LTX M/S 275/70R16 $300


    Pace Edward Rolltop Tonneau $700
    Smitty Bilt nerfs $300
    Mudflaps $75
    Putco Stainless Steel tailgate cover and bedcaps $175
    Lund Interceptor bugguard $40
    Billet Chevy bowtie $40
    Limo tint quarter windows and rear windows
    35% tint driver and passenger windows.

    As far as performance increase, my best guess without dyno is 40HP

  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    ticking noise occurs in both 2wd and 4wd V6s? I have driven several 4.3L GM V6 2wd pickups and have not experienced this problem. Nobody I know with the 2wd V6s has complained about this. I wonder if it is something other than the engine ticking, like something to do with the transfer case?
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    My wind noise was from the body mounted door trim. It had slipped down about two inches. I glued it in place with 3M trim cement.
    My rough idle was from defective platinum tipped plugs. Dealer replaced 7 & 8 plugs at 5K and the rough idle was totally gone and engine felt more powerful. The rough idle is back at 9K, and I will replace all of them with NGK plugs soon as weather warms up a bit.
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