Chevy Silverado Problems



  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    > Magnecor Racing Wires $115 5HP

    There's a sucker born every minute!
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    no I havent, did chat with a 2wdr V6 owner that said he had no lugging-ticking, as to my situation, it is only lugging at slight inclines in drive(in 3rd it runs fine), besides that theres are no other problems-noises yet, 11k so far.............. Obyone thats a heck of a list, I havent thought of doing that much to a trk ,but I have gone all out with a motorcycle(harley) but thats a different topic,,,,,, thanks for the input.....
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    have you priced the stock wires yet? did you know that in some cases, they're the cause of pinging?
    did you also know that the stock wires have developed twice the resistance as new in as little as 7,000 miles? the sucker is you, especially if you buy the stock wires over again. LOL
    also, i'v upgraded my stereo system and found that the magnecors eliminated the final tidbit of interference, not to mention that the slight cackling i was hearing is totally eliminated.
    might want to think about what you're spewing off about before you spew.

  • dj2000dj2000 Member Posts: 3
    How do you like the LTX M/S TIRES? I have heard good reports about them . What type did you have before , and were they the originals ?
    I have the Firestone P265x75R16 with 5000 miles , and they are really noisy . Did you get a trade in for the old ones . You got a good price at $300.

  • hunter98hunter98 Member Posts: 273
    The LTX M/S is a good quiet highway tire. Ok for moderate snow on plowed streets and such. Not an all terrain tire in the least or a deep snow tire. I have the 265x75R16 Michelin LTX AT which is a great tire and is tons more agressive than the M/S. That tire would have left me stuck several times. The tire size of 265 isn't best for snow, a 235x85 or a 255x85 would be better in snow in the AT pattern.

    Best of luck

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Love the LTX M/S. Long story on the tires. Went throught 3 sets (12 tires) of the General 660AS due to extreme wear in about a 1000 miles on each. Found out later that there was a hush hush recall on them. GM gave me a trade in of $25 each. I checked online and found retail to be $35 each. Cheap tires? Perhaps. Prior to mounting my fourth set, I asked the GM zone rep about a swap out, seeing that there seemed to be no end...they agreed. Got the tires at dealer cost, had a friend check for $92 a piece less the $25 with mounting and balancing courtesy of GM even though they subcontracted it out. They wanted no part of anything to do with the tires after agreeing to the swap out. LOL!! My original tire size was 255/70R16 and the new size is 275/70R16 so for me it was a great deal. On my Denali, I swapped the Firestone Firehawks out with GM approval. I guess the zone rep remembers my name. It was a better deal as I got $89 each for the Firestones and paid $92 for the Michelin. Dealer, not wanting to nickel and dime said forget the difference. So I went from the 265/70R16 Firestone to the 275/70R16 Michelin. The reasoning was that there was an excessive resonance at low speeds (25-35 mph) where the tires would feel like they were bouncing. Balancing 3 times didn't help even once with the Hunter balancer. They are great riding, handling, wet weather, and are real quiet. The responsiveness in the steering is like night and day. BTW, hasn't snowed in my parts for over 200,000 years.
  • dj2000dj2000 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the fast comeback about the tires . I'm leaning toward the M/S , we don't have very much snow here , and I want the quieter ride . Also , want to get these P series off , and get the LT TYPE .Thanks hunter for your input also .This is a great site , a lot of good information .I only hope I can find a dealer who will take the Firestones as a trade in allowance .
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Here is a tsb regarding reprogramming with same settings. What's interesting about it is the part about what the truck "learns" over time.

    Info - PCM Reprogramming #99-06-04-053
    Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using The Same Download Files As Those Already Present In The Control Module)
    1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogramable PCM

    It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s) into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if the controller memory became corrupted.

    The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000 PC currently displays the following message:


    Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:


    Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)

    fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
    IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
    certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
    automatic transmission shift adapts
    will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.

    It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving distance.

    Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    The service manager, (after I showed him all the info. from your post pass and present on lugging) has told me that the trans reprograming cannot be done on a V6 he states it is only for V8s, do you agree??? He always seems to be not interested and gives me the ''you bought it your stuck with it'' vibes.......
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Have you been to this website?

    Enter your VIN. It should show you a listing of available programming update and current programming for your truck. If there are new one's available for driveline growl or transmission updates, you can print and show it to the service manager. I would think there would be. Maybe jed1894 could shed more light on the subject as I believe that he had a V6 also. I would definitely check the site out.
  • john294john294 Member Posts: 56
    checked into it, it states, All 96 and later vehicles can be reprogrammed except for medium duty trucks. It did have a cal.history for trans part#16259121 CVN=n/a bulletin#=n/a trans calibration for my Vin #.....thanks....
  • mrrogerzmrrogerz Member Posts: 22
    Boy, I've been looking for mud flaps for a while now and even ordered and paid for them at the dealer 6 months ago. They have to order them 6 pairs each front and back, or else track them down at another dealer. No luck so far.

    I saw your post #99, and are yours molded or flat rubber? If they are rubber, where did you get them and will they fit on a 2K Silver ado Z71 with wheel flares?
    Thanks, Roger
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    I bought some molded ones from "TruxStor" -- can't recall the brandname now, but they're standing up OK to Minnesota snow and slop.

  • mrrogerzmrrogerz Member Posts: 22
    Oby, I've been looking for mud flaps for a while now and even ordered and paid for them at the dealer 6 months ago. They have to order them 6 pairs each front and back, or else track them down at another dealer. No luck so far.

    I saw your post #99, and are yours molded or flat rubber? If they are rubber, where did you get them and will they fit on a 2K Silverado Z71 with wheel flares?
    Thanks, Roger

    P.S. I erroneously spell checked my post #113. R
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Are these what you're looking for?



    Made by Husky
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Don't remember what parts store they came from. BTW, the picture is Ryan's truck with the wheelflares and mudflaps....does anyone remember? Could always ask him at his site...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Try this site. I bought the rubber ones, but then I don't have the fender flares. They do carry the one's for the fenderflares. Good luck...

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I have no experience with V6 reprogamming....My V6 was a 91 model (good old days).

    Obyone....thanks for info......

  • mrrogerzmrrogerz Member Posts: 22
    for the quick feedback guys! The pictures and links were helpful.

    I originally ordered OEM flat,white bowtie mudflaps from the dealer and am still trying to track them down if I can. I like the standard look and the flexibility of the flat flap.
  • texaszachtexaszach Member Posts: 119
    As I have gathered through reading here, there are several distinct problems which have plagued the 1500 trucks since their redesign two years ago.
    1) front end vibration - apparently corrected on the '01 production run by adding extra bracing around the front end
    2) steering shaft - any '01's experiencing this one?
    3) wind noise - whether caused by lack of weatherstripping around extended cab doors, poor fit of extended cab doors OR thin, poor fitting glass in extended cab doors, have any/all of these problems been corrected on the production line yet?
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I'm not having any trouble with mine. I do have a regular cab, so the door and window issue is not applicable to me.
  • lc74lc74 Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone. I'm new to the list and have a question about my 1998 5.7L Silverado. The factory warranty is about to expire and I wanted to take care of a small nuisance...a clunk in the driveline when accelerating. Also, while coasting onthe road and then hitting the accelerator, it feels like there is some slack in the driveline at times. Especially when accelerating out of a corner. Are these two things related and what suggestions would anyone have as far as getting them fixed the first time by my dealership? Thanks.
  • k0hbk0hb Member Posts: 89
    I have a 2001 1500 XC LT 2WD 4D 5.3L, born Oct 10th, about 5,000 miles.

    -- No vibrations.
    -- No steering shaft problems
    -- No window wind noise
    -- No rear door closing problem in cold weather
    -- No other problems I can find, and I'm *VERY* picky!

    Love the truck, and especially those heated leather buckets, when the temp is -15F like it was this morning!

  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I have 99 model with same problem. I know of other people with 98 model with the same problem. I think GM has a cure for the problem.........maybe someone else here can help.

  • lc74lc74 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for letting me know that I'm not alone with the driveline clunk problem. Like you said, I know that GM must have a cure for this. Others of you, please help us solve this.

  • motorodmotorod Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 MC 350. I have had the same symptoms since I bought the truck new. Got 108,000 miles on it now. I have never had a problem with my truck. I think the feeling you have, I think is normal for the tarns you have. I have had the best luck with the truck I have. Wish everyone has the same. I had to trade because I bought a new camper and needed a bigger truck to pull it. I traded it in today for a new 2500HD Crew 6L. The delivery date is 3-22 I think. Does anyone know if they meet their delivery dates. I wonder what the gas mileage will be? I have to brag a bit. I have never had to align the front end, only replaced the altinator at 60k, belt once and windshield modulator at 80k, besides brakes and oil, its been a great truck. What else could I ask for. I was a Ford guy before, but I'm buying my 2nd M.
  • cwillisjcwillisj Member Posts: 8
    I still have concerns about the vibration problem with the Silverado. Anybody know anything about the 2001's and this problem?
  • cwillisjcwillisj Member Posts: 8
    Am trying this again to make sure. I am considering buying a new Silverado, but have heard that there have been vibration problems in the past. Does this problem still exist. Any experiences to share would be appreciated.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I just had a '01 Silverado xcab 2wd as a rental. When I had originally rented this truck in December, it had 300 miles and no vibes. At the ending of January, I rented it again. It had 3000 miles and vibrations at 60 mph.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Is your truck 2 or 4 WD? Makes a big difference on the answers.....
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I've tested several 01 models in the last few weeks ...... I was surprised to find out that the sensitive steering and vibrations are non-existent in the one's I drove. I don't know if the problem is cured, but the trucks I drove felt real smooth. Good luck.

    The only thing I did notice....... it seems that the 01 models are smaller (inside interior). I'm probably wrong but they sure felt smaller than my 00 2wd and 99 4x4. ??????

  • lc74lc74 Member Posts: 4
    My truck is a 1998 5.7L 2 wheel drive extended cab. Any suggestions???

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration (Flush and ReplaceTransfer Case Fluid)

    #99-04-21-004Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration (Flush and Replace Transfer Case Fluid)
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade1998-2000 Chevrolet and GMC K1-2 Pickup and full-size Utility ModelsWith NP246 Automatic Transfer Case (RPO NP8)This bulletin is being revised to add information to the Models and Correction sections and changesto the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 86-74-03 (Section 7 --Transmission)

    ConditionSome owners may comment about a "bump" feeling when the vehicle accelerates from a stop. This condition usually is only a single bump feeling or single event. Do not confuse this condition with alaunch shudder condition, which feels as if the vehicle is shaking or shuddering and is a multiple event (more than one bump).CauseThe condition may be caused by a slip-stick condition between the rear propeller shaft slipyoke and the transfer case output shaft.CorrectionA new transfer case fluid has been developed to correct this condition. This blue colored fluid isthe next generation Automatic Transfer Case Fluid. This fluid contains a better friction modifier thatshould eliminate the slip-stick condition. Flush and replace the transfer case fluid on affectedvehicles using the following procedure and the part number listed below. Refer to the Transfer Casesubsection in the appropriate Service Manual for information on draining and filling the transfercase. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-001, dated April 1999, for important information onremoving the transfer case drain and fill plugs.Drain the transfer case fluid. Refill the transfer case with 2 qts (2 L) of new fluid, P/N 12378508 (In Canada use P/N 10953626). After refilling the transfer case, drive the vehicle a minimum of 8 km (5 mi). With the transfer case at operating temperature, drain the transfer case fluid again. Refill the transfer case again with the new fluid.ImportantThe vehicle may require approximately 160 km (100 mi) of driving before the condition is completely corrected.

    PartNumber Description Qty
    *12378508 (In Canada use P/N 10953626) Auto-Trak II Transfer Case Fluid 4 qts (4 L ) Containers

    *The above P/N represents a case of twelve containers.Parts are currently available from GMPSO.

    Warranty Information

    This procedure requires the draining and refilling of the transfer case fluid twice. To submit forreimbursement, please follow these steps.Use K4290 and put the labor time for the 1st drain and refill in the labor hours field. Put the 2nd drain and refill labor time in the other labor hours field. Submit the part number, the total number of parts used and the total parts dollars in the respectiveparts fields. This claim will require dealer self-authorization using authorization code "E." For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:Labor Operation Description Labor Time K4290 Plug, Transfer Case Drain - Replace Use published labor operation time © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

    Hope this helps...
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I'm going to take a copy of your post to the dealer for work......It sounds kinda like what my truck is doing so I'll try it. My truck has the tranny clank when shifting from 1st to 2nd. The initial start from stop is not a problem. ..... won't hurt to try I guess......

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You may want to read this one......

    Document ID # 656972
    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002
    Driveline Clunk
    2000 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to update the models section and add information to the Important statement. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 56-44-01A (Section 4 - Drive Axle and Section 7 - Transmission).

    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.

    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
  • lc74lc74 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for all the help. I'll also take a copy of the above to my dealership for service work. I'll make a follow-up post after the work has been completed to let you know if it has helped. Thanks again!

  • marcmarc Member Posts: 21
    I know there is normal clearance between parts in the drive train but when the clank is loud enough for someone standing 100ft away to hear that's too much slack.

    I test drove a Ford and it doesn't have any clunk or clank when going from I to I, zero!

    That much slop in the drive train = sloppy workmanship and it affect durability. GM is too lazy to fix the problem and they are hoping their clanky trucks will last until the warranty runs out.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Can't you read?

    "While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance."


    GM ya gotta luv em for all the BS...cause this was my first clunking vehicle, ever!!
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Thanks for info....... sounds like I'm stuck with a clank too. Oh well....... business as usual....

  • newbamanewbama Member Posts: 11
    Received our 2001 Silverado 2500HD on 1/28 that we
    ordered on 10/13/2000. Have read all the post on
    problems with 2000 models.

    Only have 250 miles on it yet but have found no
    vibrations, wind noise etc. Owners manual now
    says to wait until oil change light comes on
    before changing. It should come on between 3000-10,000. Think I will go with Mobil 1 when it happens.

    Have a A.R.E top ordered and trying to find a
    running board I like. Will order the mud flaps.
    Thanks for all the info you all have provided.

    My first Chewy truck and I am impressed and hope to be able to say that a few miles down the road.
    And don't forget "go bama".

    P. also ordered some polish and stuff from Zaino.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    congrats on the new truck. The HD's appear not to be plagued like the 1500's.

    Be sure to clay before using the Zaino.
  • rsssrsss Member Posts: 6
    While it may not affect the truck, per post #139 it has affected me. It has aggravated an old back problem & every time the truck does one of it's hard shift & clunks, it sends pain to my lower back. Spend $30,000 for pain, can't enjoy the heated seats now because I am back to wearing my back brace. Can't afford to take the big loss an buy another brand or car. These luxury items and hepa filter is why I switched from my Tahoe.

    Tried to get Chevy to do a buy back or at least help me get into another that won't subject me to pain, but the only thing they offered was extended warranty, so I will have to continue to suffer until they can come up with a fix, [which isn't likely] or I win the lottery which again isn't likely, as my state doesn't even have a lottery. I have been loyal to Chevy since my 69 camaro which was my lst car. Still have 69 rsss convert. & 92 camaro 25th anniversary convt, but thinking of doing a heav ho and buy something that works and not from GM.

    My truck has been in 14 times, maybe l5 or 16 [hard to keep track unless I pull my paper work]

    If there is a new update within the past month please let me know. Dealer has been great at trying everything and anything, its the big tech people and corporate that are ??? Thanks.....
  • duse5150duse5150 Member Posts: 1
    I have had a major surging problem since about two months after I bought the truck new in May of 1999. The dealer can't find/solve the problem. CM will not admit it has a problem. I even took them to arbitration with the BB. They decided in my favor. I still have not received any relief from Chevrolet. Any help would be appreciated. I have a stack of paper work that you would not believe. I would like to send it to Chevrolets CO if I knew where to send it. This surge is not a small one. It is a major safety concern.
  • rthaasrthaas Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 2500LT's heater doesn't direct nearly enough hot air into the footwell of the passenger compartment. Around Christmas, while driving from Colorado to Tennessee in 12 degree weather, my wife and I could not get enough heat on the passenger's feet to keep them from being very cold. There weren't any drafts in the footwell, we ended up wrapping our feet in a blanket when setting on that side.

    The dealer checked with GM's Tech. Assistance and were told that the heater was performing to spec., I called that Customer Assistance line and was told that GM has a "Poor Heating Performance Review" currently looking into the problem (so I guess others have complained too.)

    Is anyone else have complaints with the amount of heated air directed at the passenger's feet?

    Rob Haas
    [email protected]
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You stated that BBB ruled in your favor at arbitration. What was the result? Buyback? replacement? This may vary from state to state but GM has 60 days to comply with the arbitrator's ruling. How long has it been?
  • iceracericeracer Member Posts: 4
    This is my first time posting. My truck is a 2000 Chevy 2500 4x4 5 speed manual with 4:10 locker. It is the extra cab 4 door S/B. The engine has a tick at idle when you first start it cold. The tick goes away as soon as you pick up the idle even the slightest amount. The tick is gone after the engine is warm. Had it to my dealer twice now for this and they tell me "no can fix". I asked them to just bring the idle up a tad but they say that can't be done either. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so what did you do?

    Sick of Tick!!!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Your dealer is correct on both counts. There is a temporary fix for it using top engine cleaner to rid of the carbon deposits but like I said it is only temporary. The main cause of the tick at startup is excessive clearance in the rod bearings. I'm sure your dealer knows this as it was resolved for the '01 Silverados. Only way to permanently fix the tick is to replace either the main bearings or the motor. The latter being cheaper I think
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Rod bearings is the correct phrase. Not main bearings.
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    As some of you know I had Chevy buyback a 2000 1500 2wd Xcab LS short bed auto 4.8 355 limited slip Silverado due to highway shake. It also had the harsh feedback through the steering wheel when hitting bumps at speed. I rented a truck last week and they gave me my exact truck, except it was a 2001, no limited slip, and had a 5.3 engine; had a 10/00 build date and the extra frame bracing. I was hoping Chevy had improved, but this one, with only 7 K miles, was horrible. I can say the steering felt better over bumps, and the engine was a slight bit more powerfull, but overall I'd rate it very poor. It vibrated all the time over 65mph, the shocks and springs were so weak they felt like it had 100K on it, the seats were spongy, not firm, the radio wasn't nearly as clear, or powerfull as mine, and it didn't drive well at all. The thing just felt loose all over. The good points are that the 5.3 had a little more power, judging by the seat of the pants feel, although I mainly felt it from 70-95mph accelerating hard. The 4.8 is a fine strong motor and even though I tow 3-4K lb boats, I would not spend the extra money for the 5.3 as it didn't feel much stronger. on the highway I got an avg of 19.4 mpg with the 4.8, and I got 17.7 with the 5.3. I still like the Chevy engines, but after this rental I'm positive I'm going to a Ford for the replacement for my buyback Chevy.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    just curious. How many miles did the truck have? Also, ever consider a Tundra?
This discussion has been closed.