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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • spoke to glass shop rep,she said they do sell a product that removes spots easier for $10 dollars, you do have to be careful around painted areas and also said that they stopped using Rain-X because if you stop using it once started it will smear and it has to be applied every few weeks,,,,,also you can lightly sand,prime,&paint your drive shaft........called Rain-X @800-416-1600 rep says that if R-x is over appield it will smear and that if you need to remove it you need to make up a solution of Bonami? cleanser and water (apply like wax) and remove......
  • dmdbitdmdbit Posts: 23
    i have tried both with excellent results except the stp lasts months and rainx lasts weeks.

    mike b
  • Stuff works good especially for side and rear windows. Some people don't like what it does on the windshield when the wipers are running. Not really bad, just different. I drove 40 miles at night in a light rain on the expressway with no wipers (wipers blew a fuse way out in the sticks)
    . Luckily it was real light traffic, but it did work good enough to see amazingly well.
    Really works great on rear windows where the water sheets up and ruins vision. Also works great on glass boat windshieds if you don't have wipers.
  • I have a 2001 Z71 and when I bought it I noticed that the brakes were much staffer than the 1997 I traded in on it. Now they feel very spongy. I have taken it back to the dealer and they say the brakes are normal.

    Has anyone heard of or has this problem, I know that something is not right regardless of what the dealers say
  • My dealer can not find any references to the TSB #00-08-64-016 on door problems in cold weather. We also tried looking up the p/n for the new latch and striker and they do not show in his computer p/n system. My dealer is very willing to help but it looks like I need to get the exact info to them. Can you please provide more detail or better yet the actual TSB. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
    I also have the steering noise and feedback through the steering column while making moderate low speed turns and here again especially during cold weather and a not warmed up vehicle. Is this the intermediate shaft issue I have read about on this message board. Is there a TSB out on this problem also? Thanks for any help. I really do want to get these problems fixed in my 2000, 1500 Series Siera.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    A brief description of the steering noise that you are experiencing would help to start.

    If your dealer cannot find this particular tsb, he should know better and should have called the Technical Assistance Network (TANS) for all GM dealers. They would probably be able to fax the info within the hour. The dealer can also download all available TSB's online as I watched my Denali dealer do this for the TSB's I had in question. So for the lif of me, I can't understand what's with this dealer...or maybe you should consider changing?
  • I totally hear ya about the brakes. Test driving last weekend I noticed the same thing at first. I would suggest that you find a quite spot and do some test braking. My suggestion would be that you try a low speed emergency stop from say 20-30 MPH.

    You should experience some nose dive but the shocks should control this somewhat and you should feel the truck come to a reeling hault.
    If you want to try the anti-lock brakesd do the same as above but from about 45 Mph or so in a remote location (a bit noisy for the neighbors). I never buy a truck/car that where I don't do this during the test drive. What if you have an emergency? You need to know how the truck/car will react.

    Anyway this should do 2 things. One - give you a good idea of what to expect when you need to stop quick and two - make you push harder on the brakes to stop the car. I would imagine you will find as I did with my Silverado test drive that the brakes do feel kinda spongy during normal driving but when you put the spurs to her you'll find...well the thing won't stop on dime but it comes close for a full size.
  • toroktorok Posts: 2
    For the third time I've taken my 2000 5.3 Silverado back to the dealer because of cold start knock, which they say is do to carbon build-up on the top of the pistons. The first time I took it in I had 42,000 miles on it and AM took care of it out of warranty, saying they knew they had a problem, and have done the same two more times. I now have 55,000 miles on this truck with no other problems. The service manager said Am is still trying to find the solution to this very big problem, And it looks like they will have to swap piston. He also noted they are having the same problem in the 4800 series. this is very serious, considering six out of ten 5.3's are having this problem. Anybody else having this problem I'd like to here about it. And I live down south.
  • wilmacwilmac Posts: 27
    I had this problem on my 99 and treating with GM top engine cures it for a while. It a ticking noise that sounds like oil is slow flowing to the heads. If it is a knock it is bearing tolerances that were tighten up on 01 models to stop the cold start knock. The ticking noise at cold start up is due to carbon particles on the rings not the top of pistons as the pistons no longer have skirts per my dealer.
  • Steering noise: this problem occurs when the truck is cold and I make low speed turns like out of my driveway. I can hear a clucking noise and I can feel the cluck in the steering wheel. It seems like the universal joints I see in the shaft under the hood might be binding or maybe the steering box. I hope this better describes
    the problem.

    As for the rear doors not closing in freezing weather the dealer has said that he does not recognize the TSD number sequence as a GM number sequence. He says the numbers for service bulletins are 5 digits. This is the reason I would like to get my hands on the bulletin and walk in the dealership with it. As for changing dealers it would be a long long drive. They are a great group and have been very helpful with all my other service needs. I have bought three vehicles from them.
  • In reference to your advice on the cold weather rear doors not closing with TSB 00-08-64-016 I would like to get a copy. My GMC dealer has not been able to find it. Even the GM district service rep was not aware of the TSB but is aware of the rear door problem. If you could point me to it or post it I would greatly appreciate it.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    TSB for steering:

    Clunking Noise Under Hood/Felt In Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Strg Shaft Assm) #00-02-35-003
    Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)

    With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

    Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

    A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.

    Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.

    From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

    From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
    From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
    Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
    Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).

    Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

    Parts Information
    Part Number Description Qty
    26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1

    Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

    Also please note that the TSB number is a total of 9. Called my dealer and he says it's been that way for awhile.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Replace the factory plugs and rough idle goes with the discarded plugs.
  • I've always thought my 5.3 should idle a bit smoother than it does. Is there a reason why changing the factory platinum plugs would cure this? Would checking the gap and adjusting those not at .060 be just as effective? If I do change my plugs, I'm going to Bosch regular platinums. I've heard their newer plug isn't that great.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    My '00 Silverado 5.3 had a rough idle from day one. Dealer said they all do that. I checked a number of trucks and sure enough there were a number that did that and worse (like a diesel). At 5000 miles the SES light came on. On the way to dealer, the light went out but they checked it anyway. Plugs 7&8 had lost their platinum tips. When the plugs were replaced (7&8) the rough idle was gone. Get rid of the platinum plugs and the rough idle...
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    My 4.8 4x4 99 model has the knock......carbon buildup per service manager. I think the service manager has carbon buildup. Bottom line: no cure for me yet....although GM gave me an extended warranty because of the problem. I'll be rid of the truck by the time the ext. warranty expires.....

    Good luck...

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Yep. Seems like it would be spooky without it. So...will there be another silverado in your future after this one?
  • Thank you for posting the TSB 00-02-35-003 for the Steering clunk type noise. This fits my truck exactly because I have the problem while turning at low speeds on my long gravel driveway.
    I must ask if you have access to the rear doors not closing in cold weather TSB 00-08-64-016. If you do, can you post it. I would greatly appreciate it. I have an appointment at the GMC dealer Friday to review these issues and hopely get the parts on order to fix them.

    By the way my 2000 5.3 Sierra has the spark knock type ticking noise and GMC has been very cooperative and in two weeks I was able to get a letter extending the warranty to 100k miles or 6 years. I was happy with their responsiveness and willingness to stand behind any engine failure with the extended warranty. Ya I got to live with the noise but the CD player covers it up and now I am not worried that carbon buildup is going to blow a head gasket or something as they had previously thought.
  • Did you ever figure out what happened to the tips? I'd hate to think of something like that floating around in my cylinders. If I had a tip or two missing I'd expect my idle to be much worse. Mine isn't really bad, but I was expecting silky smooth after 11.5 years with a 4.3. Also, I don't have a loss of power one would expect from one or two defective plugs. BTW, what brand of plugs come on the 5.3?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Sorry. I would have posted already should I have had it. Yes, GM has been passing out Major Guard extended warranties like they were being discontinued. Does your extended warranty begin where the factory 3/36 ends or is it running concurrently?
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    My '00 Silverado 5.3 engine came with AC-Delco platinum tip plugs. They are going to be replaced (at 10K miles) with NGK's from NAPA.
  • Has anyone experienced a vibration or shimmy at the rear of the bed with 2001 Duramax/Allison extended cab long bed with about 1200 miles from new? Any known fixes or mod?
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    Yes, there will be another Silverado in my future when the warranty expires on this one. However, I think I might lease the next one and switch out every 3-4 years (50k miles or so) from then on. Haven't decided yet.

    I test drove Ford and Dodge and did not like them at all. So far, I can't complain too much about GM..or should I say BBB. I don't think GM would have done anything for me without the help of the BBB. Anyway....I guess I'm just a Chevy man...also.....chicks dig em! .........

  • Hello List!

    This is my first post after browsing for a bit. I am very excited to see such a great resource and I look forward to participating here.

    I have a couple of issues I wanted to bring up and see if anyone has experienced anything similar.

    1 - My rear left brake sticks after setting and then releasing the parking brake in freezing weather.

    2 - The power steering fluid is being gradually "used" up somewhere. I have topped up once after the fluid dropped below the dipstick and now the level appears to be falling again. There seems to be seepage around the box where the steering shaft meets the rack. However I have never seen any power steering fluid on the ground.

    3 - Occasionally in very cold weather (<10 degrees F) there will be a low thumping noise that is related to vehicle speed and not engine speed. Tapping the brakes seems to make it go away.

    4 - I got my first oil change at the dealership and they installed a PF52 oil filter, but my truck originally came with a PF47. Does anyone know what should be used on a 2000 4.3?

    Well that's all I wanted to bring up for now. I also saw a couple of older posts with references to TSB's. Is there somewhere online where I can browse all the TSB's for my truck?

    Thanks in advance for any help or comments.
  • I just bought an '01-LT, 4x4 with 5.3 engine. The main gripe is a noise that seems to come from the defrost vent area on top of the dash or in the dash. It sounds like a plastic tarp flapping in the breeze. It only comes up about 70+ mph. Also get a steering wheel squeak like a rubber bushing against metal when it is very cold and the heater hasn't warmed up the cab yet. Any ideas to help me out. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet. Limited faith there. I think it helps to go in with an idea of what you want checked. The truck has under 2000 miles on it. Thanks for any ideas.........!
  • I live in Alaska and it's common knowledge up here that you never set the parking brake in freezing weather. I know someone who ignored that advice and they wound up dragging their rear wheels until someone next to them at a stop light pointed it out. I rarely ever use my parking brake. Just avoid steep hills and the parking pawl will hold just fine.
  • I received my 5yr 60 k ex warr. from GM resently and was dismayed by the fact that it started at purchase date of truck ,I called both GM and BBB to complain with my reasoning being that 3yrs 36k came with truck and the 5-60 should be extra,they both said no thats not how it works,so basicly I just wind up with a additional 2yr 24k ext warr added to to 3-36k factory warr.,has anyone else expereniced this???I feel Ive been cheated.....
  • kdgivkdgiv Posts: 1
    I purchased my truck at the beginning of last year and have had it in for the same problem 3 times. I have 29,400 miles on it now. It is a 2000 Silverado with a 4.3-liter vortex engine and a 5-speed manual transmission, single cab, short box. It has a hesitation while accelerating @ apron. 2200-2500 rpm, on carder accelerating it sometimes looses partial power between 2500-3000 rpm. The hesitation is most noticeable in 3rd and 4th gear on normal acceleration, shifting between 2500-3000 rpm. The partial loss of power is most noticeable in 2nd and 3rd gear, shifting between 3000-3500 rpm. Both problems are most noticeable while running the A/C. After running the A/I for an extended period of time, the engine rpm will hold or stick at 2000 rpm while costing and coming to a stop. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm for up to 10-15 seconds then drop to normal idle.
    The first time I had it in, the computer did not report a problem code. On my description of the problem, the auto etch replaced the A/I compressor. That did not solve the problem. The second time in, the computer did not report any problems again. The auto etch checked for etch information on the truck, and found that the computer needed to be reset, or re-synchronized. After that, the truck performed better (seamed to produce more horse power and accelerate better), but still had the problem.
    The third time in, I took the auto etch for a ride to make sure he knew the problem. He did feel the problem, and drove the truck back to the service department and could reproduce the problem. He tried reading the computer again and did not get any problem codes. He pulled spark plugs and did not detect any problems. He told me that they could not find the problem and would contact Chevrolet about it and I could call back later this week.
    The same auto etch has worked on it each time.
    I do not know what else to try and the service tech seams not to know either.
    Please Help!!!!!!
  • Have a 2001 1500, Ex. cab, 2wd and all is OK so far. My question is "what should my oil pressure gauge actually be reading?" On highway it's almost maxed out (2 ticks from max). In town it's about 8 ticks from max. I thought it was supposed to stay very close to midway (40). Dealer says all is fine as long as it doesn't go BELOW 40. Also how about ideas for reducing wind noise in cab down the highway.
This discussion has been closed.