I also have a 99 Z71 and have had a ton of trouble from the start, some of the things that were fixed under warranty are now recurring. The noise that occurs from take off in the transfer case is back and now that I have 60,000. miles on it there is no hope of getting assistance from dealer or manufacturer, my advice to you is trade before warranty runs out as the problems will not go away. My ABS module and valve went out last week, the repair quote was $1450. without labor. Good luck.
Obyone, thanks for your input. I have to challenge you on the problem being rod bearings. I have vast experience with racing chevy V8's and this does not sound like a rod bearing. If I trully thought this was a rod bearing problem, I would insist the dealer pull the engine and inspect. The truck only has 14K. You also suggest a "top end cleaner" as a temp fix. This would have nothing to do with the rod bearings. You got me puzzled there. I have read a number of your posts and you seem to be very informed on the overall. Maybe I'm way off and I should just shut up and take note. Are you basing this information on known fact from experience or do you have other sources? You say things were resolved for the 01's. My truck was manufactured on the week of 17 July 00. Is there a TSB or some other solid info that I can get my hands on re: bearing clearance data? This is a brand new truck and imagine how I feel OWNING the thing and already the engine has a tick. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Regards Tim
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71 extended cab. It has 35, 000 miles and there is rust on the rear bumper (underneath and on the sides). I am also noticing rust along the frame. I contacted GM and was told this was an environmental condition and is not covered under the bumper to bumper 36,000 mile warranty. In the manual it states nothing about road salt, etc. I have filed with BBB to try to receive a new bumper and something done concerning the frame rust. GM has offered to pay half the price of a new bumper and labor. I am not satisfied with this bill of approximately $300.00 from my pocket. If anyone else has the same problem or any other suggestions, I would appreciate a response. 1999 Chevy truck owners, CHECK YOUR BUMPERS ESPECIALLY UNDER THE EDGE CHROME SIDE. Thank You, Chris
While checking your bumper, did you notice how paper thin it is?
iceracer,
I have it somewhere on my 'puter. Will research and get back to you. I remember in an ad, GM stated that the clearances have been tightened for 2001 as a selling point. Thought it was kind of insulting if you ask me.
1. Document ID # 57106 Engine Knock Diagnosis Knocks Cold and Continues for 2 to 3 Minutes Engine flywheel contacting the splash shield. Reposition the splash shield. Loose or broken crankshaft balancer or drive pulleys. Tighten or replace as necessary. Excessive piston to bore clearance. Replace the piston. Cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out. Cold engine piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. Bent connecting rod. Heavy Knock with Torque Applied Broken Balancer or pulley hub. Replace parts as necessary. Loose torque converter bolts. Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace and/or tension to specifications as necessary. Flywheel cracked. Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as necessary. Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as necessary. Light Knock Hot Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of EST or ESC. Refer to Engine Controls. Loose torque converter bolts. Exhaust leak at the manifold. Tighten the bolts and/or replace the gasket. Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace bearings as necessary. Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds: Improper oil viscosity. Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures. Refer to SECTION 0B. Hydraulic lifter bleed down Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary. When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent. Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing. Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts. Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required. Knocks at Idle Hot Inspect the drive belt for wear. Check the tension and/or replace as necessary. Inspect the A/C compressor or generator bearing. Replace or repair as necessary. Inspect the valve train. Replace the parts as necessary. Inspect for improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil for expected temperature. Refer to SECTION 0B for engine oil specifications. Inspect for excessive piston pin clearance. Replace the piston and pin as necessary. Inspect the connecting rod alignment. Check and replace the rods as necessary. Inspect for insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone the bore and fit the new piston. Inspect the crankshaft balancer for looseness. Torque and/or replace the worn parts. Ensure that the piston pin is not offset to the wrong side. Install the correct piston.
That's impressive. You refer to Document ID#57106. Is this specific to the 6.0L for 00? Have you experienced any of these things first hand? If so what did you do? I had the truck into my dealer today and they gave me the same old song and dance. "Could not duplicate customer complaint" MORONS!! I intend to have this problem dealt with even if I have to fight for a new engine. Thanks again!! Regards Tim
GM has had this problem since '88. I've noticed on many trucks that after a period of time, especially if living in areas where road salt is used in winter, such as Wisconsin where I live, the bumpers get rusty, mainly on the right rear corner-could it be a combo of the exhaust, salt and limited cleaning during winter months? I had a bumper replaced on my '90 GMC replaced under warrany,and have noticed on my '01 that there waere a few spots that seemed to be rust or rail dust spots. My solution to keep the bumper looking good is wax it occasionally, and during winter I'm spreading grease around on the right corner to protect the surface. Another option is to get rid of the bumper and install a fiberglass roll pan. Another note, a few years ago I was at a local salvage yard and they had a dozen or so GM rear truck bumpers piled up, evidently donated from the local dealer after the warranty claims were made.
When I go to close the tailgate the cables come unhooked from the box-side mounts, anyone experience this? I tried to crimp the thin metal keeper on the cable with no luck.
As with my experenece with dealer with my problems (which differ from yours) and their ''no fix'' attitude, go ahead and file for a case # and from there go on to BBB because the dealer will likely just waste your time and get you pissed off,Belive me I know how it feels ,think clearly what your willing to accept be it buy back ,replacement,ex.warr,or fix and be prepared because it will take some time of haggleing back and froth (took me 3mts)with GM.Stand your ground, phone numbers you need are in back of owners manual......my 2 cents GOOD LUCK
I've noticed this on a few trucks, generally a few years older though. The coating the frames are dipped in doesn't last forever, I had mine undercoated, definately helps here in Road Salt WI.
I'm not sure, now that you mentioned 6.0, if it relates. I would like to believe so but not certain. There haven't been many problems associated with the 6.0 or not many people own them having problems.
1) Could loose torque converter bolts cause a grinding type noise when it locks in at 45mph?
2) Could it cause the hard shift from 2-3 around 20-25 mph? Sometimes 3rd hits real hard like there is a 1 second pause between 2-3 and the motor gets a change freely spin before 3rd locks in.
3) could the loose torque converter bolts cause the loud clank when shifting from D to R? I do not mean a clunk from the slack in the drive train being taken up I mean a metal clank.
"Every consider a Tundra ?" Them's fightin' words son. ;-) The Chevy I rented was showing 7K miles. Probably real hard miles since it was a rental, but I was still surprised that it had degenerated so much. Mine had 9K when Chevy bought it back and it was still very tight and the only problems were the strange steering feedback on bumps and smooth road vibration.
probaly a simple explanation put I havent noticed it on my other two vehicles ,Damn water spots on all the trucks windows, have tried different cleaners but their still there ,if it was the same on all three I would think its my water or soap used but I wash all three the same but only the truck has the hard to remove spots, any ideas on removal of water spots or cause???.......
Good luck on the ticking probably......I would guess the your best result will be an ext. warranty (like me). I don't think GM will replace the motor because of this ticking problem. I've heard of numerous people on this site as well as others with the ticking problem and the best people have gotten was a ext. warranty and/or letter from GM. If GM opened the door with new engines, they would be flooded with ticking trucks.
Regarding carbon buildup.......I had it done and it made my problem worst......don't let them BS you into that one...... I agree with Obyone.....I think the problem is in the bearings, rods, etc.
Let us all know if you get a new engine.........Good luck......
Had the same water spot problem on my first truck. Bought it used and all the windows were spotted. I used rubbing compound and very fine steel wool. It cleaned all the windows but took days of elbow grease. It even took the spots off the plastic back window!
Im starting to think something else besides plain water is the cause because I could scrape the spots off with a razor blade and I also tried tar n bug remover which seems to work also put as you stated ,it does require elbow work, will try the rub comp on rest of it .Thanks Also has anyone noticed their drive shaft??? my looks like a rust shaft along with universals. I looked at two other chevy trks at work parking lot and they where the same.I know its notthing but my last trk was way older and the shaft and universals didnt look that bad...
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 L automatic w/ 3.73 rears. I have had an idle problem since the truck was new. It has been brought in for service 6 times. Each time they re-flashed the computer and said that was pretty much all they could do. The problem is most pronounced under the following conditions:
1) Drive truck until it reaches operating temp. 2) Turn it off, come back to start it in about an hour. 3) Outside temp around freezing or below. 4) The engine RPM will immediately drop to 100-200 RPM and sputer for a few seconds then it will go back to around 500 RPM.
I have tryed all different grades and brands of fuel. None of which helped.
I have read postings that this is a common problem with this truck.
The only problem with this is that in Massachusetts the inspection laws do not require an emissions test for the first four years. When I brought my truck in for inspection this year the service station advised me that the truck would not have passed emisions with the idle the way it is.
Has anyone been able to get the [non-permissible content removed] at GM to fix their truck?
there is a product on the market used for cleaning the water and floride deposits from shower glass. i'm not sure of the exact name, but will find out for you if you're interested. it's available at glass shops. it comes in a full strength that needs to be mixed with water. when using it though, be extra careful about letting it get on the paint and sitting there for an extended period. i know...sounds a little scary...but if you wipe the solution on and work it into the glass with an absorbing sponge and then immediately hose off, you will not harm your finish. it's been used by car detailers for years, and like i said, if you keep the water flowing on the area you are treating, you'll have no problem. the stuff is amazing, as you only need to wipe it on and work it for a few seconds and then hose off. . a word of caution on steel wool though, you may not notice it, but steel wool will definately leave fine scratches in the glass. Rick
Back a few years ago in Hawaii, my truck was parked in a parking lot in the sun. Maintenance crews decide that high noon was the best time to water the grass. What i got out of it was the whole front of my truck had horrible spots on it. The hood and the windows. I tried all kinds of stuff to get the spots off to no avail. My bud told me to try Lime scale remover made for fish tanks. I think it was made by Jungle Products, and called "fish tank glass cleaner/ scale remover." I tested it in an inconspictuous place and it worked great. Took about 15 minutes and not much elbow grease. Did not hurt the paint or windows. I then gave the hood a good coat of wax for precautionary measures. After the I never parked near grass, if I could help it. Hope this helps. pat
While gas could be suspect in this case, others have tried various approaches to solve the problem. One has been to change the spark plugs to NGK TR-55 #3951 (copper). Costs about $15/set. Good luck!!
Wondering if anyone out there has experienced some of the "radio Button" lights being burned out in their AM/FM stereo. On my 1998 K1500 Z71 Pickup, the lights that illuminate the #2 and #5 radio preset buttons have gone out. Also the buttons < and > on the seek button have gone out. All other radio lights are working fine. Anyone else had this problem? Anyone know how to fix? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Has anybody used Rain-X or other type of glass (windows)protector ect, to help combat water spots from forming .Thanks for input on removing spots,got the windows clean again now, would like to keep em that way.......Besides having to dry them everytime they get wet...LOL
i've used it and the product worked great. it took two applications, and while i don't feel it stays on as long as they claim, it did repel water during a rainstorm. Rick
it seems to have a denatured alcohol base, with some kind of a wax(or sorta like) compund that when dry, buffs off just like wax. i say denatured alcohol (aka shellac thinner) because i recognize the odor. as far as i know, it does'nt cause a build up. i actually like the product but i am sometimes too lazy to put it on. Rick
Ill try the X ,also Im going to find something to put on that rusted drive shaft probaly dont need to but it does look bad, cant hurt, maybe better for long term.......
I used bug and tar remover and Simple Green for gross removal(stuff I had in garage), than followed up with Windex for fine cleaning ,got most of it off, I didnt use anything abrasive to apply just a sponge took appox.1.5 hrs to do ,went to Kmart and got some Lime-scale remover will try that next time if neccessary .I am going to a glass shop and ask about some info. on a window protectant or if not avaialble will use Rain-X (or???) to see if it helps keep it off or make it easier to remove.......either that or carry a cig ligther adaptable hair dryer and blow dry the windows after they get wet..LOL
spoke to glass shop rep,she said they do sell a product that removes spots easier for $10 dollars, you do have to be careful around painted areas and also said that they stopped using Rain-X because if you stop using it once started it will smear and it has to be applied every few weeks,,,,,also you can lightly sand,prime,&paint your drive shaft........called Rain-X @800-416-1600 rep says that if R-x is over appield it will smear and that if you need to remove it you need to make up a solution of Bonami? cleanser and water (apply like wax) and remove......
Stuff works good especially for side and rear windows. Some people don't like what it does on the windshield when the wipers are running. Not really bad, just different. I drove 40 miles at night in a light rain on the expressway with no wipers (wipers blew a fuse way out in the sticks) . Luckily it was real light traffic, but it did work good enough to see amazingly well. Really works great on rear windows where the water sheets up and ruins vision. Also works great on glass boat windshieds if you don't have wipers.
I have a 2001 Z71 and when I bought it I noticed that the brakes were much staffer than the 1997 I traded in on it. Now they feel very spongy. I have taken it back to the dealer and they say the brakes are normal.
Has anyone heard of or has this problem, I know that something is not right regardless of what the dealers say
My dealer can not find any references to the TSB #00-08-64-016 on door problems in cold weather. We also tried looking up the p/n for the new latch and striker and they do not show in his computer p/n system. My dealer is very willing to help but it looks like I need to get the exact info to them. Can you please provide more detail or better yet the actual TSB. Your input would be greatly appreciated. I also have the steering noise and feedback through the steering column while making moderate low speed turns and here again especially during cold weather and a not warmed up vehicle. Is this the intermediate shaft issue I have read about on this message board. Is there a TSB out on this problem also? Thanks for any help. I really do want to get these problems fixed in my 2000, 1500 Series Siera.
A brief description of the steering noise that you are experiencing would help to start.
If your dealer cannot find this particular tsb, he should know better and should have called the Technical Assistance Network (TANS) for all GM dealers. They would probably be able to fax the info within the hour. The dealer can also download all available TSB's online as I watched my Denali dealer do this for the TSB's I had in question. So for the lif of me, I can't understand what's with this dealer...or maybe you should consider changing?
I totally hear ya about the brakes. Test driving last weekend I noticed the same thing at first. I would suggest that you find a quite spot and do some test braking. My suggestion would be that you try a low speed emergency stop from say 20-30 MPH.
You should experience some nose dive but the shocks should control this somewhat and you should feel the truck come to a reeling hault. If you want to try the anti-lock brakesd do the same as above but from about 45 Mph or so in a remote location (a bit noisy for the neighbors). I never buy a truck/car that where I don't do this during the test drive. What if you have an emergency? You need to know how the truck/car will react.
Anyway this should do 2 things. One - give you a good idea of what to expect when you need to stop quick and two - make you push harder on the brakes to stop the car. I would imagine you will find as I did with my Silverado test drive that the brakes do feel kinda spongy during normal driving but when you put the spurs to her you'll find...well the thing won't stop on dime but it comes close for a full size.
For the third time I've taken my 2000 5.3 Silverado back to the dealer because of cold start knock, which they say is do to carbon build-up on the top of the pistons. The first time I took it in I had 42,000 miles on it and AM took care of it out of warranty, saying they knew they had a problem, and have done the same two more times. I now have 55,000 miles on this truck with no other problems. The service manager said Am is still trying to find the solution to this very big problem, And it looks like they will have to swap piston. He also noted they are having the same problem in the 4800 series. this is very serious, considering six out of ten 5.3's are having this problem. Anybody else having this problem I'd like to here about it. And I live down south.
I had this problem on my 99 and treating with GM top engine cures it for a while. It a ticking noise that sounds like oil is slow flowing to the heads. If it is a knock it is bearing tolerances that were tighten up on 01 models to stop the cold start knock. The ticking noise at cold start up is due to carbon particles on the rings not the top of pistons as the pistons no longer have skirts per my dealer.
Steering noise: this problem occurs when the truck is cold and I make low speed turns like out of my driveway. I can hear a clucking noise and I can feel the cluck in the steering wheel. It seems like the universal joints I see in the shaft under the hood might be binding or maybe the steering box. I hope this better describes the problem.
As for the rear doors not closing in freezing weather the dealer has said that he does not recognize the TSD number sequence as a GM number sequence. He says the numbers for service bulletins are 5 digits. This is the reason I would like to get my hands on the bulletin and walk in the dealership with it. As for changing dealers it would be a long long drive. They are a great group and have been very helpful with all my other service needs. I have bought three vehicles from them.
In reference to your advice on the cold weather rear doors not closing with TSB 00-08-64-016 I would like to get a copy. My GMC dealer has not been able to find it. Even the GM district service rep was not aware of the TSB but is aware of the rear door problem. If you could point me to it or post it I would greatly appreciate it.
Clunking Noise Under Hood/Felt In Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Strg Shaft Assm) #00-02-35-003 Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) 1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)
With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft. Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft. From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft. Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft. Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft. Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Parts Information Part Number Description Qty 26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time
I've always thought my 5.3 should idle a bit smoother than it does. Is there a reason why changing the factory platinum plugs would cure this? Would checking the gap and adjusting those not at .060 be just as effective? If I do change my plugs, I'm going to Bosch regular platinums. I've heard their newer plug isn't that great.
My '00 Silverado 5.3 had a rough idle from day one. Dealer said they all do that. I checked a number of trucks and sure enough there were a number that did that and worse (like a diesel). At 5000 miles the SES light came on. On the way to dealer, the light went out but they checked it anyway. Plugs 7&8 had lost their platinum tips. When the plugs were replaced (7&8) the rough idle was gone. Get rid of the platinum plugs and the rough idle...
My 4.8 4x4 99 model has the knock......carbon buildup per service manager. I think the service manager has carbon buildup. Bottom line: no cure for me yet....although GM gave me an extended warranty because of the problem. I'll be rid of the truck by the time the ext. warranty expires.....
Thank you for posting the TSB 00-02-35-003 for the Steering clunk type noise. This fits my truck exactly because I have the problem while turning at low speeds on my long gravel driveway. I must ask if you have access to the rear doors not closing in cold weather TSB 00-08-64-016. If you do, can you post it. I would greatly appreciate it. I have an appointment at the GMC dealer Friday to review these issues and hopely get the parts on order to fix them.
By the way my 2000 5.3 Sierra has the spark knock type ticking noise and GMC has been very cooperative and in two weeks I was able to get a letter extending the warranty to 100k miles or 6 years. I was happy with their responsiveness and willingness to stand behind any engine failure with the extended warranty. Ya I got to live with the noise but the CD player covers it up and now I am not worried that carbon buildup is going to blow a head gasket or something as they had previously thought.
Did you ever figure out what happened to the tips? I'd hate to think of something like that floating around in my cylinders. If I had a tip or two missing I'd expect my idle to be much worse. Mine isn't really bad, but I was expecting silky smooth after 11.5 years with a 4.3. Also, I don't have a loss of power one would expect from one or two defective plugs. BTW, what brand of plugs come on the 5.3?
Sorry. I would have posted already should I have had it. Yes, GM has been passing out Major Guard extended warranties like they were being discontinued. Does your extended warranty begin where the factory 3/36 ends or is it running concurrently?
Comments
before warranty runs out as the problems will not go away. My ABS module and valve went out last week, the repair quote was $1450. without labor.
Good luck.
Regards Tim
Thank You,
Chris
iceracer,
I have it somewhere on my 'puter. Will research and get back to you. I remember in an ad, GM stated that the clearances have been tightened for 2001 as a selling point. Thought it was kind of insulting if you ask me.
1. Document ID # 57106
Engine Knock Diagnosis
Knocks Cold and Continues for 2 to 3 Minutes
Engine flywheel contacting the splash shield. Reposition the splash shield.
Loose or broken crankshaft balancer or drive pulleys. Tighten or replace as necessary.
Excessive piston to bore clearance. Replace the piston.
Cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out. Cold engine piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable.
Bent connecting rod.
Heavy Knock with Torque Applied
Broken Balancer or pulley hub. Replace parts as necessary.
Loose torque converter bolts.
Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace and/or tension to specifications as necessary.
Flywheel cracked.
Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
Light Knock Hot
Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of EST or ESC. Refer to Engine Controls.
Loose torque converter bolts.
Exhaust leak at the manifold. Tighten the bolts and/or replace the gasket.
Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace bearings as necessary.
Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
Improper oil viscosity.
Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures.
Refer to SECTION 0B.
Hydraulic lifter bleed down
Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary.
When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent.
Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing.
Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts.
Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required.
Knocks at Idle Hot
Inspect the drive belt for wear. Check the tension and/or replace as necessary.
Inspect the A/C compressor or generator bearing. Replace or repair as necessary.
Inspect the valve train. Replace the parts as necessary.
Inspect for improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil for expected temperature. Refer to SECTION 0B for engine oil specifications.
Inspect for excessive piston pin clearance. Replace the piston and pin as necessary.
Inspect the connecting rod alignment. Check and replace the rods as necessary.
Inspect for insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone the bore and fit the new piston.
Inspect the crankshaft balancer for looseness. Torque and/or replace the worn parts.
Ensure that the piston pin is not offset to the wrong side. Install the correct piston.
Regards Tim
Another place you might want to check is here:
http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/2001_Engine.htm
2) Could it cause the hard shift from 2-3 around 20-25 mph? Sometimes 3rd hits real hard like there is a 1 second pause between 2-3 and the motor gets a change freely spin before 3rd locks in.
3) could the loose torque converter bolts cause the loud clank when shifting from D to R? I do not mean a clunk from the slack in the drive train being taken up I mean a metal clank.
thanks
The Chevy I rented was showing 7K miles. Probably real hard miles since it was a rental, but I was still surprised that it had degenerated so much.
Mine had 9K when Chevy bought it back and it was still very tight and the only problems were the strange steering feedback on bumps and smooth road vibration.
Regarding carbon buildup.......I had it done and it made my problem worst......don't let them BS you into that one...... I agree with Obyone.....I think the problem is in the bearings, rods, etc.
Let us all know if you get a new engine.........Good luck......
John
Good luck
Scott
Also has anyone noticed their drive shaft??? my looks like a rust shaft along with universals. I looked at two other chevy trks at work parking lot and they where the same.I know its notthing but my last trk was way older and the shaft and universals didnt look that bad...
1) Drive truck until it reaches operating temp.
2) Turn it off, come back to start it in about an hour.
3) Outside temp around freezing or below.
4) The engine RPM will immediately drop to 100-200 RPM and sputer for a few seconds then it will go back to around 500 RPM.
I have tryed all different grades and brands of fuel. None of which helped.
I have read postings that this is a common problem with this truck.
The only problem with this is that in Massachusetts the inspection laws do not require an emissions test for the first four years. When I brought my truck in for inspection this year the service station advised me that the truck would not have passed emisions with the idle the way it is.
Has anyone been able to get the [non-permissible content removed] at GM to fix their truck?
.
a word of caution on steel wool though, you may not notice it, but steel wool will definately leave fine scratches in the glass.
Rick
pat
Rick
Rick
Scott
mike b
. Luckily it was real light traffic, but it did work good enough to see amazingly well.
Really works great on rear windows where the water sheets up and ruins vision. Also works great on glass boat windshieds if you don't have wipers.
Has anyone heard of or has this problem, I know that something is not right regardless of what the dealers say
I also have the steering noise and feedback through the steering column while making moderate low speed turns and here again especially during cold weather and a not warmed up vehicle. Is this the intermediate shaft issue I have read about on this message board. Is there a TSB out on this problem also? Thanks for any help. I really do want to get these problems fixed in my 2000, 1500 Series Siera.
If your dealer cannot find this particular tsb, he should know better and should have called the Technical Assistance Network (TANS) for all GM dealers. They would probably be able to fax the info within the hour. The dealer can also download all available TSB's online as I watched my Denali dealer do this for the TSB's I had in question. So for the lif of me, I can't understand what's with this dealer...or maybe you should consider changing?
You should experience some nose dive but the shocks should control this somewhat and you should feel the truck come to a reeling hault.
If you want to try the anti-lock brakesd do the same as above but from about 45 Mph or so in a remote location (a bit noisy for the neighbors). I never buy a truck/car that where I don't do this during the test drive. What if you have an emergency? You need to know how the truck/car will react.
Anyway this should do 2 things. One - give you a good idea of what to expect when you need to stop quick and two - make you push harder on the brakes to stop the car. I would imagine you will find as I did with my Silverado test drive that the brakes do feel kinda spongy during normal driving but when you put the spurs to her you'll find...well the thing won't stop on dime but it comes close for a full size.
the problem.
As for the rear doors not closing in freezing weather the dealer has said that he does not recognize the TSD number sequence as a GM number sequence. He says the numbers for service bulletins are 5 digits. This is the reason I would like to get my hands on the bulletin and walk in the dealership with it. As for changing dealers it would be a long long drive. They are a great group and have been very helpful with all my other service needs. I have bought three vehicles from them.
Clunking Noise Under Hood/Felt In Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Strg Shaft Assm) #00-02-35-003
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)
With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time
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Also please note that the TSB number is a total of 9. Called my dealer and he says it's been that way for awhile.
Good luck...
John
I must ask if you have access to the rear doors not closing in cold weather TSB 00-08-64-016. If you do, can you post it. I would greatly appreciate it. I have an appointment at the GMC dealer Friday to review these issues and hopely get the parts on order to fix them.
By the way my 2000 5.3 Sierra has the spark knock type ticking noise and GMC has been very cooperative and in two weeks I was able to get a letter extending the warranty to 100k miles or 6 years. I was happy with their responsiveness and willingness to stand behind any engine failure with the extended warranty. Ya I got to live with the noise but the CD player covers it up and now I am not worried that carbon buildup is going to blow a head gasket or something as they had previously thought.