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Chevy Silverado Problems
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before warranty runs out as the problems will not go away. My ABS module and valve went out last week, the repair quote was $1450. without labor.
Good luck.
Regards Tim
Thank You,
Chris
iceracer,
I have it somewhere on my 'puter. Will research and get back to you. I remember in an ad, GM stated that the clearances have been tightened for 2001 as a selling point. Thought it was kind of insulting if you ask me.
1. Document ID # 57106
Engine Knock Diagnosis
Knocks Cold and Continues for 2 to 3 Minutes
Engine flywheel contacting the splash shield. Reposition the splash shield.
Loose or broken crankshaft balancer or drive pulleys. Tighten or replace as necessary.
Excessive piston to bore clearance. Replace the piston.
Cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out. Cold engine piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable.
Bent connecting rod.
Heavy Knock with Torque Applied
Broken Balancer or pulley hub. Replace parts as necessary.
Loose torque converter bolts.
Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace and/or tension to specifications as necessary.
Flywheel cracked.
Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as necessary.
Light Knock Hot
Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of EST or ESC. Refer to Engine Controls.
Loose torque converter bolts.
Exhaust leak at the manifold. Tighten the bolts and/or replace the gasket.
Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace bearings as necessary.
Knocks on Start-Up but Only Lasts a Few Seconds
The following conditions may produce engine knocks on initial start-up, but only last a few seconds:
Improper oil viscosity.
Install proper oil viscosity for expected temperatures.
Refer to SECTION 0B.
Hydraulic lifter bleed down
Clean, test and replace hydraulic lifter, as necessary.
When the engine is off, some valves will open. Spring pressure against the lifters will tend to bleed the lifter down. Repair the lifter only if the problem is consistent.
Engines operated for only short periods between start-ups may have lifter noise that lasts for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.
Excessive crankshaft end clearance; Replace the crankshaft thrust bearing.
Excessive front main bearing clearance; Replace the worn parts.
Timing chain tensioner malfunction; Clean, inspect and replace the timing chain tensioner, if required.
Knocks at Idle Hot
Inspect the drive belt for wear. Check the tension and/or replace as necessary.
Inspect the A/C compressor or generator bearing. Replace or repair as necessary.
Inspect the valve train. Replace the parts as necessary.
Inspect for improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil for expected temperature. Refer to SECTION 0B for engine oil specifications.
Inspect for excessive piston pin clearance. Replace the piston and pin as necessary.
Inspect the connecting rod alignment. Check and replace the rods as necessary.
Inspect for insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone the bore and fit the new piston.
Inspect the crankshaft balancer for looseness. Torque and/or replace the worn parts.
Ensure that the piston pin is not offset to the wrong side. Install the correct piston.
Regards Tim
Another place you might want to check is here:
http://agmlemon.freeservers.com/2001_Engine.htm
2) Could it cause the hard shift from 2-3 around 20-25 mph? Sometimes 3rd hits real hard like there is a 1 second pause between 2-3 and the motor gets a change freely spin before 3rd locks in.
3) could the loose torque converter bolts cause the loud clank when shifting from D to R? I do not mean a clunk from the slack in the drive train being taken up I mean a metal clank.
thanks
The Chevy I rented was showing 7K miles. Probably real hard miles since it was a rental, but I was still surprised that it had degenerated so much.
Mine had 9K when Chevy bought it back and it was still very tight and the only problems were the strange steering feedback on bumps and smooth road vibration.
Regarding carbon buildup.......I had it done and it made my problem worst......don't let them BS you into that one...... I agree with Obyone.....I think the problem is in the bearings, rods, etc.
Let us all know if you get a new engine.........Good luck......
John
Good luck
Scott
Also has anyone noticed their drive shaft??? my looks like a rust shaft along with universals. I looked at two other chevy trks at work parking lot and they where the same.I know its notthing but my last trk was way older and the shaft and universals didnt look that bad...
1) Drive truck until it reaches operating temp.
2) Turn it off, come back to start it in about an hour.
3) Outside temp around freezing or below.
4) The engine RPM will immediately drop to 100-200 RPM and sputer for a few seconds then it will go back to around 500 RPM.
I have tryed all different grades and brands of fuel. None of which helped.
I have read postings that this is a common problem with this truck.
The only problem with this is that in Massachusetts the inspection laws do not require an emissions test for the first four years. When I brought my truck in for inspection this year the service station advised me that the truck would not have passed emisions with the idle the way it is.
Has anyone been able to get the [non-permissible content removed] at GM to fix their truck?
.
a word of caution on steel wool though, you may not notice it, but steel wool will definately leave fine scratches in the glass.
Rick
pat
Rick
Rick
Scott
mike b
. Luckily it was real light traffic, but it did work good enough to see amazingly well.
Really works great on rear windows where the water sheets up and ruins vision. Also works great on glass boat windshieds if you don't have wipers.
Has anyone heard of or has this problem, I know that something is not right regardless of what the dealers say
I also have the steering noise and feedback through the steering column while making moderate low speed turns and here again especially during cold weather and a not warmed up vehicle. Is this the intermediate shaft issue I have read about on this message board. Is there a TSB out on this problem also? Thanks for any help. I really do want to get these problems fixed in my 2000, 1500 Series Siera.
If your dealer cannot find this particular tsb, he should know better and should have called the Technical Assistance Network (TANS) for all GM dealers. They would probably be able to fax the info within the hour. The dealer can also download all available TSB's online as I watched my Denali dealer do this for the TSB's I had in question. So for the lif of me, I can't understand what's with this dealer...or maybe you should consider changing?
You should experience some nose dive but the shocks should control this somewhat and you should feel the truck come to a reeling hault.
If you want to try the anti-lock brakesd do the same as above but from about 45 Mph or so in a remote location (a bit noisy for the neighbors). I never buy a truck/car that where I don't do this during the test drive. What if you have an emergency? You need to know how the truck/car will react.
Anyway this should do 2 things. One - give you a good idea of what to expect when you need to stop quick and two - make you push harder on the brakes to stop the car. I would imagine you will find as I did with my Silverado test drive that the brakes do feel kinda spongy during normal driving but when you put the spurs to her you'll find...well the thing won't stop on dime but it comes close for a full size.
the problem.
As for the rear doors not closing in freezing weather the dealer has said that he does not recognize the TSD number sequence as a GM number sequence. He says the numbers for service bulletins are 5 digits. This is the reason I would like to get my hands on the bulletin and walk in the dealership with it. As for changing dealers it would be a long long drive. They are a great group and have been very helpful with all my other service needs. I have bought three vehicles from them.
Clunking Noise Under Hood/Felt In Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Strg Shaft Assm) #00-02-35-003
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)
With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Also please note that the TSB number is a total of 9. Called my dealer and he says it's been that way for awhile.
Good luck...
John
I must ask if you have access to the rear doors not closing in cold weather TSB 00-08-64-016. If you do, can you post it. I would greatly appreciate it. I have an appointment at the GMC dealer Friday to review these issues and hopely get the parts on order to fix them.
By the way my 2000 5.3 Sierra has the spark knock type ticking noise and GMC has been very cooperative and in two weeks I was able to get a letter extending the warranty to 100k miles or 6 years. I was happy with their responsiveness and willingness to stand behind any engine failure with the extended warranty. Ya I got to live with the noise but the CD player covers it up and now I am not worried that carbon buildup is going to blow a head gasket or something as they had previously thought.