Chevy Silverado Problems



  • goosecop1goosecop1 Member Posts: 5
    I thought it was Obyone that responded to my previous message said there were TSB's for each of the problems I listed. However, one of those TSB's is probably the blue fluid exchange for the transfer case. This has been done to my good, didn't help at all. Dealer admits that the drivetrain has a lot of slop and slip and according to them "it's normal with the new, lighter weight aluminum driveshafts". Unfortunately, I really can't blame the dealer, their hands are tied. The problems stems with GM corporate and their unwillingness to correct their problems and provide the solutions to the shops that have to do the work. I've owned four suburbans before buying my Silverado and never had any major problems. My last 6.5 Turbo Diesel was great. When I sold it it had 143,000 miles on it and never a major problem. If I can unload this truck, I'm looking for a used 2500 Diesel Sub with 40-50K, much better vehicle.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You get the free extended warranty the same way you got the new motor. When negotiating, just ask for it. What you could do at the end of the thirty day period, if you're satisfied with the motor, is ask the BBB to ask the GM rep for an extended warranty cause "you're concerned on the longevity of the new motor". From what I've seen, the Major Guard is treated like an assumed given.
    good luck.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262

    http://si2kgmd:[email protected]/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=754901&evc=num Srch&version=html"

    cut and paste the URL

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    http://si2kgmd:[email protected]/si2000/numbersearch.html
  • tmurastmuras Member Posts: 4
    I just wanted to thank all of you for your help. I'll take this new information and use it to my advantage in getting the problem resolved. I'll keep you informed of the resolution.....hopefully there will be one!
  • tmurastmuras Member Posts: 4
    Again, I'd like to thank all of you for the help you gave me regarding the throttle body. I'll be contacting my dealer and I'll have the TSB in hand when I do. Just for a little background. Someone had mentioned running fuel system cleaner through and that was what Chevy recommends. The dealer also recommends only using Chevron gas and Chevron fuel system treatment. You know....cause of that Techron thing. I have been running fuel system cleaner through the engine on a semi-regular basis (every 10,00 miles) but it hasn't helped. Thanks again for all your help with my previous post.

    This brings me to another point. I've had a problem since I bought the truck. Well, maybe problem is too strong of a's more of a nuisance than a problem. I've noticed that when I initially start up my Sliverado it has a rough idle for about 5 minutes afterwards. It goes away after the truck warms up but you can notice it while the truck is still warming up. I've taken it in before and they haven't found a problem. It seems that if the computer doesn't recognize that something is wrong, they don't look for anything. It hasn't been something that has affected the way the truck runs but I am concerned that, with age, it will only get worse and could become a problem. As a result of my throttle body problem, I had the injector cleaning done and the problem is still there. I looked through the TSBs and wasn't able to find one related to this problem.

    Has anyone experienced the rough idle that I am talking about?
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Hey all, haven’t posted in about four months, but I have been catching up on all the posts and was looking for some more info on sagging. Other than the one post, haven’t seen anything, but here’s my continuing problem. I have a ’01 Silverado 1500 4-Dr. Ext. Cab LS 5.3 V8. Ever since day one, I noticed what I believed to be the left side of the truck sagging. Measured it and it was about an inch lower on the left than the right. Took it back. Dealership said it was a body problem. They don’t have a body shop, so it was sent out in town to have the work done at a local body shop. The body shop spent about four days on it, replaced both rear lift springs, and shackles, switched the front coils from left to right and back and stated it didn’t make any difference. Body still sags. Got the truck back, and about a month later I drove to another Body shop for a second opinion. Guy seemed to know what he was doing. Got underneath, looked all over, got his measuring tape, and then asked if the front coils were replaced. I said no, just switched around. He lifted up on the driver’s side front wheel well, and the truck seemed to straighten out entirely. Said it could be a bent coil from having the truck tied down when shipping from the factory. Also said that both coils should be replaced as one could be bent down and/or the other bent up. I would have thought the first body shop would have replaced them, but they stated by switching them they should have noticed a difference, which they didn’t. Spoke to the first body shop today and they felt like I was wasting my time by replacing the front coils, but the dealership is doing just that next week. The first body shop owner also told me he went to the dealer lot and measured a few trucks and they were all the same. My thought is it still doesn’t make it right. I figured it would be best to get the work done, to possibly build a case against GM if I can’t get this darn problem fixed after so many tries. By the way, my 40/20/40 seats are very comfortable. Any service bulletins out about this sagging? All opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I have no idea why the #8217 is all over my post. Hope you can decipher.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Member Posts: 278
    Sorry to go off subject but looks like it's when you us an apostrophe. It's maybe because the posting service on Edmunds doesn't understand the font your browser is trying to use.

    I haven't seen anything on the sagging but on the subject of your bench seat...when I test drove I kinda preferred the the captains chairs. The bench seat didn't sit well with my back and I kept feeling like I had to push myself up once in a while.

    I must say that I wish the captains chairs were positioned a little bit lower. I'm 6' tall and must imagine that a lot of folks are my height as well and feel the same. It feels like my head is in the headliner and I'm several inches above the window base. But boy did that 5.3, 3.73 move like cat on water.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I imagine it's only a matter of time before 2001 TSBs start to appear. Anybody know of any yet? Mine is a regular cab, long box, 4WD w/AutoTrac, 5.3, 3.73, auto.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    I don't know if this is the correct one or not - looks like you need to spend $20 to find out.
    Anybody know a free way to get at this TSB information?
    BTW - I had a slightly rough idle after the injectors were flushed and one replaced, so I dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank for about the next 3 tanks of gas. Actually, I only filled up about 1/4 tanks so the concentration of the Techron would be greater. (If you read the back of the bottle, it recommends "up to 12 gallons" of gas when you put the cleaner in the tank.) I would go after the injector cleaner aggressively for a while and see what happens - it worked for me:)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Rough Idle After Start, SES Light (Unstick/Clean CSFI Poppet Valves) #00-06-04-003
    Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves)
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade

    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G, P Models

    1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

    with 4.3 L, 5.0 L or 5.7 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R -- RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)

    This bulletin is being revised to add new information to the Correction section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 87-65-07A (Section 06 -- Engine).

    Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire, or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.

    A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.

    A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. Injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.

    The first step in this process is to make sure that the poppets are operational. The cleaning procedure will be ineffective on a poppet nozzle that is stuck closed. The J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2 to "energize" the injectors.

    The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 5% Top Engine Cleaner and 95% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.

    S/T and C/K Truck
    Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
    Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
    Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
    Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
    Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
    Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.

    Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
    Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.

    Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
    Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer, and spacer in the metering body.

    Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure that the fuel pipe O-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.

    Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.

    Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
    Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.

    Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
    Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to the metering body electrical connector.
    Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.

    Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
    Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
    Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
    Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times (as required) until the injector is operational.
    Repeat steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
    Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
    Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
    Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
    Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
    Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
    Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
    Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) to the distributor cap.
    Install the air inlet bonnet to the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
    Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.

    Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
    Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl.oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada P/N 992872), to the canister.
    Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
    Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
    Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
    Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
    Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to 75 psi.
    Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain 75 psi.
    Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
    Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
    Depressurize the J 35800-A.
    Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
    Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
    Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
    Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.
    Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
    Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.

    Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.

    Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).

    Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the O-rings (6 and 8), washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
    Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1). Tighten
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Member Posts: 265
    Somehow, I don't think the service techs at my local dealer really did all that to fix my rough idle, although they did find a bad injector. I have to give them credit for taking a whack at it.
  • onepatonepat Member Posts: 10
    after 8k miles of this problem, three different dealership checks, no cure. took the truck to the fourth shop, this time they had it in the body shop for two days, slight improvement, they had the cap off and did a complete air leak check. they said the problem is caused by the cap. the cap is an ARE not a junker. the noise is still very loud and as I said in my first post I don't hear well, any suggestions for my next move. I'm leaving on a 3000k trip in two weeks and don't think I can stand the noise that long.
  • jnorejnore Member Posts: 3
    I had my intermediate steering shaft replaced to fix my "clunky" steering problem in my 2000 Silverado. It fixed the problem and I noticed that the steering wheel was tight when I got it back. I could actually hear the steering wheel vinyl rub against the column's vinyl when I turned corners. No big deal. It went away after a while, but now the wheel is loose when I turn it about 45 degrees. The initial rubbing and the current loosness was obviously caused by the work done on the intermediate steering shaft, right? Wrong- says the dealership. The rep I was talking to said that it couldn't have anything to do with it. I disagree. It is NOT a coincidence. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    GM may not give you a warranty since they gave you a motor. When I was going through both my BBB claims, we (GM, BBB and me) talked about a new motor. The deal/offers were: new motor with warranty, letter from GM stated if anything ever happened to motor it would be replaced, or ext. warranty. I picked the last one....They would not give me new motor and 100k major guard. If I got the new motor or letter I would not have gotten the warranty to cover everything on the vehicle. However, I did not push the issue....if I were you, I ask for the warranty like Obyone said. It never hurts to ask......tell them you believe that the motor problem may have caused other damage to the truck in some way.

    Another thing to consider: if you only get a new motor with 36k warranty, you're better off with 100k Major Guard coverage. You get extra warranty miles that way. If the motor (or anything else) goes at 99k, you're covered....

    Good luck

  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Anyone have a chance to read my post #359? I sure would like some help and/or opinions. Another thing to add to that post is the body shop guy said "all new Chevy Trucks have about a 1 inch lean". My answer was "and that's supposed to make it right"??

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I had both sides sagging after about 3 months of ownership, the truck sat level. When I asked the dealer, he took one look at it and said, "defective leaf springs". Replaced both sides and truck sat at its usual back-end high postion with no lean in either direction. What would be the odds of having both leafs defective? Not sure but if I could have two.....
  • timothymtimothym Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4x2 extended cab 2000 Silverado with the two extended cab doors. In the cold weather I have a rattle coming from the general area where the passenger door and extended cab door meet. It is very annoying and ironically goes away after going about two miles (the inside cab warms up) Has anyone experience this?
  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    I have the same problem. when it is cold (about 45 or colder) my drivers side 4th door rattles like crazy, about where my ear is. about 5 min of driving it is gone, in combination with a little heat. since it is by my ear, i think it sounds like an actuator rod, that once it warms up (expands) it becomes tight, therfore no rattle. Funny you mentioned it, i have tommorrow off and am planning on taking the door plastic molding off to see the root cause. if i get to it and find anything out i will let u know. from what you saay we have the identical problem, just different doors, and it drives me nuts.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    There is a TSB to fix the rear door rattling
  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    what is the tsb #??

    post it here or on your site
  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    dean, you see to be the king of posting TSB'S, any help to post #371 or 372??
    ryan says there is a TSB but i checked on and i did not see one.
    thanks in advance pat
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches) #00-08-64-016
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches)
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    Some customers may comment that the 3rd or 4th door is hard to close when cold.

    There was a change to an internal bumper in the latch and the removal of the primary door seal internal plug.

    Verify proper alignment between the upper and lower striker before proceeding to the next step.
    Replace the upper and lower latch assemblies using the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section of the Service Manual.

    Remove the primary door seal internal plug across from the lower latch assembly.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    15057687 Latch Asm - LH Upper
    15057688 Latch Asm - RH Upper
    15063698 Latch Asm - Lower

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    B4650 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Right Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
    B4652 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Left Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    See i wasnt lying to you. Im just not as good as obyone with all the tsb numbers

    I dont think has updated their database lately. That tsb came out i think january/february.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262

    http://si2kgmd:[email protected]/si2000/home.html

    for complete list

    for example enter
    http://si2kgmd:[email protected]/servlets/Search

    type " hard to close" and you will find the service bulletins as specified by obyone

  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    how do you get into those address. i clicked on it and got page unavaiable.

    dean, thanks for the tsb

    ryan, i believed you, just couldn't find it

  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    something is wrong with this Edmunds stuff, but you can simply cut and paste the URL.

    Notice that only the first part of the address is highlighted, therefore something is broken.

    Once you get to the site, make you a bookmark.

    Hope this helps
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    Thanks for the reply on my sag. Both leaf springs were already replaced. No change. Front coils were switched around. No change. Now I am having new coils installed. If this doesn't work, I say one more body shop can look at it, then it's time to talk to the Chevy regional guy. Do you think I'll have a leg to stand on?

  • pjcavpjcav Member Posts: 80
    i cut and pasted those url's to a word document, and they still showed up the same as edmunds. any other ideas, or other address.
  • timothymtimothym Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help and I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one with the door rattle problem. To 'obyone' thanks for the TB number. Now I have some ammunition when I visit the dealer.
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    I couldn't find a n ac pf59 so I cross referenced a fram 3675 and am getting knock tic at startup. I have always used the pf59 before with no tic so I'm wondering if the fram is the exact replacement or does it lack the check valve. I put in mobil 1 5-50
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    I always heard Fram was junk. Check out the link on oil filter studies.

  • slamphereslamphere Member Posts: 10
    Hey guys I have a problem I have been rounds with the dealer about the cold start knock and as you all know their answer is or was it is normal. The last time I was in the dealer they told me there was a fix coming out for the knock something about teflon coated pistons. Any way I was not happy so I went to GM about an asked about a extended warranty to 100k they offered a 60k drive train and no fix on the motor. I was wondering if any body has had their motor fail after 60k or has had their motor fail at all because of the knocking? Also had anybody had any luck with the better business bureau on this matter?

    I did tell the rep, after he offered a 60k that only a 100k bumper to bumper would make me happy. I will hear at the end of this week about the 100k.

  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I'm curious as to why you put in Mobil 5w-50 instead of the recommended 5w-30?

    Mike L
  • tmurastmuras Member Posts: 4
    I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the rough idle and the throttle body, especially obyone. I ended up getting everything I wanted/needed from Chevrolet. The throttle body was replaced, and they are refunding me the cost of flushing out the injectors because of the rough idle.

    Just an FYI to all of you......the Better Business Bureau works great!
  • sierra2500hdsierra2500hd Member Posts: 32
    A couple of days ago I noticed a weird noise when I would take off in the truck. It almost sounds like a power steering pump that is out of fluid. It's gotten much worse over the last two days and now I have a burning smell. It only makes the noise in first gear. As soon as the tranny shifts into second, it's gone.

    I was starting to feel left out, seems as though everyone who posts on these boards has had some sort of problem but me. Guess I get to find out what my dealer is like when it comes to service tomorrow.
  • drgene78drgene78 Member Posts: 3
    and I am looking at the 1500HD Crew Cab silverodo 2001. I haven't been on a test drive yet, still looking at the options of a Chevy, GM, Ford or Dodge. I've perused this board and see many problems mentioned.. Doors won't close in cold weather, Ping in the tranny, bad service at the dealer so bring in the BBB. This will be my first pickup purchase and I want to do things right. Would any of you with experience with the 2001 be so kind to either speak good or evil over it?


  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    The oil is mobil 1 5-30 wt.

    Can the oil filter be changed without draining the pan? I'm getting knock everytime I startup now and I think its the fram filter causing it. Or does the cold start knock begin after about 18000 miles are on the truck ?
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    I currently have a 2001 GMC 2500LD 6.0 4X4 SLT SB EXCAB 3.73 locker. Absolutely fabulous truck. This configuration is comparable to the 1500HD you are looking at except for the wheel base, I believe. You will not experience the rear door closing problem with the CC model. The transmission in my 2500LD and the 1500HD is the MT1 which is much smoother and more heavy duty than in the 1500 models. The 6.0 engine is great for performance, but gas MPG is lower than the 5.3. I average about 12.5MPG mixed driving. The brakes on the 2500LD are great. Actually better stopping power than on my old '94 1500 SB by far. I believe GM interiors are far more comfortable than any others on the market, but that is subjective. Power heated adjustable lumbar buckets are great with the 2 position memory feature. I went to the 2500LD because of some of the problems owners were having with the 1500's--Launch shudder, vibrations, pulling to one side, knocking at start-up, etc. I have nothing but good things to say about my GMC.
  • podchevyownerpodchevyowner Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 Chevrolet 2500 HD with the 8.1 with 900 miles on it. I changed the Oil at 700 miles to Mobil 1 5W-30. Now when I start it up cold, the engine has a knocking sound, like a diesel (lifters?). It also has very high oil pressure, approx. 65 PSI when cold. Both the noise and the high oil pressure seem to go away after about 5 minutes and the engine warms up. The oil pressure at idle after warm up is approx. 45 PSI and at highway speeds it is 65 PSI. I have written to GM and talked to the local dealer and they have been just a waste of time. Has anyone else experienced these problems and could synthetic oil make my oil pressure go up and cause knocking?
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Yes, you can change the filter without draining the oil.

    As with any other oil change, fill the filter before installation. It reduces the amount of time the engine runs before oil pressure comes up.

    Mike L
  • podchevyownerpodchevyowner Member Posts: 6
    Changing the oil to Mobil 1 5W-30 started all of my problems!!! I too thought it was the filter, and I changed the filter to a stock filter. That did not stop the knock or high oil pressure. Then I changed the oil to Castrol 5W-30 non-synthetic and another stock filter and I still have the knock at startup. I have 900 miles and 2 oil changes and 3 filters.
  • sierra2500hdsierra2500hd Member Posts: 32
    I changed my oil at 1100 miles. I went with Mobil 1 5w-30 and an AC Delco filter. No problems at all with any knocking. I would certainly think that a knocking motor is caused by something a little more complex than just a brand of oil.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I too have the knocking motor, but I've learned to live with it. The motor was knocking while using conv. oil. I changed to syn. oil and it still knocked. I'm not a motor head, but I don't see how syn. oil could start a knocking noise. Maybe someone here can relay some knowledge on the situation.

  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    Is there a web site that has a cross reference chart for oil filters? The one at walmart for the farm filter showed ph3675 for my truck, but I thought I saw that one matched the ac pf58. What is the deference from pf58 and pf59?
  • jnorejnore Member Posts: 3
    I hope someone can help me out on this...

    I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 Z71 ext cab. When I put it in gear and take off in reverse I hear a low pop or clunk in the rear of the truck after about 2 or 3 seconds of movement. Likewise, if I put it in reverse and don't go quite as far, then put it in drive, I hear the same noise after 1 or 2 seconds of going forward. It only makes the sound once when I initially start the truck up and take off. It doesn't happen at red lights or anything.

    Is this normal? Does anyone else hear this? I just had the "Driveline clunk" TSB service work done and it still makes the noise. It doesn't necessarily sound harmful.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    It was my impression that the anti-flow valve was for applications where the filter was installed some other way than open end up. Of course, I'm only speaking about the 5.3. I would imagine the 4.8 would be the same. My 4.3 was also mounted with the open end topside.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Anyone out there had a problem with the driver's side seat squeaking. The squeak is coming from the lower bottom left side (if you're sitting in the seat) of the seat. It squeaks when I lean forward and back.

    I took it in today for the riser (spelling?) replacement, but there was no change.

    Any suggestions....

This discussion has been closed.