Chevy Silverado Problems

dch0300

jaguar0027,
I believe the 2002 Silverados will start to be built this June, so you could wait and order one if your not in a big hurry.

My 2001 Silverado 1500, LS, ext-cab, Z-71, white/pewter, loaded, was built on Dec 6th 2000 and I picked it up from the dealer on Dec 19th. It now has 2878 miles on it, and it has been absolutely flawless. No wind noise, vibrations, clunking, rattles, shakes, or knocking. The truck sits level, all doors close properly even when it's cold out, and it is a pleasure to sit in even with 4 adults and 2 kids on a 200 mile trip. I couldn't be happier with my truck.

Just make sure before you buy your truck, you do a thorough check of everything. When I went to the dealer to get my new truck, I had a check list, and I spent 2 hours going through everything before I even when out for a test drive. And then the test drive lasted 1 hour while I checked out even more things.

I've got my new truck check list written up in Microsoft Word, so if you would like a copy of it, post your email address here.

-David

ddanneker

Has anyone experienced a noise like creaking cellophane sound (or like sand hitting the windshield) on the passenger side of a 2001 2500 hd extended cab Silverado? The sound starts at about 60MPH and will steadily get louder as speed is increased.
The dealer replaced the passenger side wheel inner liner to no avail.
Any Ideas

jed1894

Xbbuster:

Sounds like you have the same problem I had with my 00 model. I also had chrome wheels and Goodyear tires. My truck vibrated also. As it turns out, I had a warped rim that the dealer said was not warped. I also had some bad Goodyear tires.

My suggestion is ..... Take your truck to a private tire dealer not connected in anyway with GM or its dealers. Have them check your rims and tires. It should cost less than $25. If they're warped, call GM and raise HELL. They'll pay the cost with a purchase order (they did for me) for the private dealer.

Some of those chrome wheels come from the factory bad or get warped somewhere along the way. The steering on the new model trucks is so sensitive that the smallest problem with a tire or rim will be felt in the wheel or seats.

Good luck....John

gmarkham

For about a year now my SERVICE ENGINE SOON idiot light on my dash comes on occasionally, usually after 15 or 20 miles on freeway. Checked all fluids, radiator temp, the truck runs just fine with no problems what so ever (94 Rado ext cab 5.7 lt engine) The independant GM guy said it's just a computer glitch and would cost around $300 to fix. He said why fix it if the truck is not exhibiting any problems. I think if I go to sell it, I will have a hard time convincing a prospective buyer that this is nothing important. Spending $300 to not see an idiot light seems absurd considering it only appears around 40% of the time and runs great and all gauges read fine. Any ideas???

obyone

Unplug it.

jlflemmons

Forget what your independent GM guy says and stick a paperclip in the diagnostic port under the dash between contacts A and B. Turn the ignition switch to 'on' but do not start the engine. The check engine light will flash '12' (as in one blink, pause, two blinks) three times and then go out for a couple of seconds. Then, any code stored in the memory will flash in like manner. Come back and tell us what the code stored is, and I will get you the definition of the fault.

And no, this will not work on '96 and newer. Only works for OBDI systems.

Jim

bjl5

Does anyone know what causes the clunk sound in the rear of the truck when you shift from 4th to 5th? My truck is a re. cab with one piece drive shaft and 5spd. standard trans. Someone suggested regreasing the front drive shaft spline. Anyone find a cure for this problem? (TIA)

xbbuster

jed1894
The truck was taken to a local tire store because they had a load force balancer. They found one tire that did not pass their test and the dealer told them to replace it. No difference. I've been to all of the Chevy dealers within twenty miles trying to get this vibration fixed and am back at the original selling dealer. When I explain the problem to them and what was done so far, they immediately have the answer, balance the tires, tinker with the computer, replace half of the driveshaft, or just say it's not so bad. I've been through the BBB (waste of time) and their final decision was after four repair attempts was that although the vibration still exists, I should still let Chevrolet try to fix it. I rejected that decision and contacted a consumer lawyer. That was nearly three months ago which is beginning to look like another dead end. I made up my mind ten months ago that I would see this through and try to get Chevrolet to buy back this truck, but I'm near the end of the road, GM has more money and time than I do.

hunter48

Answer to the windshield noise I owned a 1999 silverado and It had the same noise it turned out to be the rubber around the windshield flapping in the wind at 60 or 75.

ddanneker

Thanks for the suggestion in solving the wind noise. Took it in to the Chev Dealer and they epoxy' the rubber strip around the windshield as you suggested and took it for a test drive. It seem to solved the problem.

jpfltaw

anyone have a solution to a 2000 rado drifting to the right, basically the steering is scary. Sometimes steers right sometimes steers left. The service dept has reset the alignment 3 times. Always with the steering wheel crooked. This last time the service mngr. said it was an " optical illusion". No need for me to tell you what I said to him.

mwille

Well folks my 2000 Silverado is still eating up rear tires ( two sets in 29K firestone steeltex). Going to a suspension specalist next. Most tire dealers don't have a machine big enough for my extended cab with 8' box.Well my other truck ( 88GMC) transmission just called it quits. I guess after 551,000 miles (original drivetrain) I can't complain.I think I'll rebuild it. Truck still run great

hunter48

I would try a different dealer it sounds like that dealer is having a problem doing a good alignment!

jed1894

Read back and find the post that deals with the 1 piece drive shaft. I believe it said the 2 piece shaft could be replaced with the 1 piece. There is a TSB that addresses the issue, but I can't remember what it said. It's here somewhere......get a copy of the TSB before you ask the dealer about it. .......... Obyone you out there?........ If so, what's the web site to the drive shaft TSB?

John

obyone

the link no longer works. BTW, the one piece shaft is to resolve the launch shudder issue.

rdve80

What rear axle do you have and have you done any towing? My diff overheated while towing and did blister the diff cover paint. Dealer adjusted the pinion backlash, said it was too tight. I replaced stock cover with a Mag-Hytec cover and a temp gauge. With the digital gauge, I was suprised at how quickly the diff oil heats up. Even without towing, it will run 75 F above outside air temp. No problems now.

scootter31

Larry,

I've got a 3.73 limited slip.

Most of my towing is hauling race cars between shops. Thirty miles each way, at seventy mph.

I'll have my dealer take a look at it. Need to take it in for rattling doors and steering wheel cluck anyway.

Mag-Hytec cover? They have a web site? Sounds interesting.

Thanks for the heads up.

Scott

davidebrown

These are GM Factory, 3 manuals (1 set) would like 100$ or best offer, cost me about 130 with the shipping, I believe. Got rid of the truck, never needed the manuals. Please email me at debrown@bignet.net. Thanks, and good luck with yours (Silverado, that is)

obyone

http://www.mag-hytec.com/

scootter31

thanks oby.

I might go for that for around 100 bucks. 240 is a bit to steep for a diff cover.

Scott

jamesk4

I have a 01', 5.3, 2wd, with 12,000 miles that has a knocking sound at idle coming from under the hood.Sounds like a knock every 1/2 second. Has anyone had anything like this happen to their truck?

Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

kansan

I went back and read Post 313 concerning replacement of the 2 piece drive shaft with a 1 piece drive shaft (TSB # 01-04-17-001). It appears from the post that it's only applicable to 2500/3500 crew cab and extended cab pickups with the long bed. I tried to go to the link for the TSBs posted in post 378 to clarify what vehicles it was applicable t, but couldn't get the link to come up. Could someone clarify if the one piece shaft replacement is also applicable to 1500's with the 2 piece drive shaft, and how to tell if your truck has the launch shudder problem (when it does it and how it responds)?
Thanks,
Ken

obyone

It appears to be a fix for the 2500/3500. Doesn't say anything regarding the 1500's. The replacement shaft parts also are for the 8600, 9200 and 11,400 GVW. Trucks with the Allison trans are also included.

Shudder occurs between 0-25 mph.

blacksilver

I had a '93 S-10 Tahoe that shuddered like that. My wife called it a "Detroit Vibrator" -- always wanted me to take her for a ride!

xbbuster

No wonder the wife doesn't think the vibration is that bad.

jaslon4

i have a 2001 chevy silverado, with the automatic transmission. It seems whenever i slow down and then hit the gas there is like a delayed reaction for it to kick into gear. It doesnt do it all the time, just some of the time. Also sometimes when I am backing up and i am turning the steering wheel to the righ it sounds like there is a groaning noise or a rubbing sound coming from the engine area. Has anyone else experienced these problems.

jetdriver2

I have a 2001 2500HD. This is a great truck. However, I am a little ticked that the brake master cylinder has a leak with only 1000 miles on the truck. Anyone else heard of this problem.
Thanks

jaguar0027

David,

Thanks for the post on your new Silverado! Sounds great and Im glad that you have not had any problems with your truck.

My e mail address is jl_griff@yahoo.com

Thanks,

Jim

raleighfirewal

I have seen in previous posts the TSB # for the squealing noise in the power steering on the 2000 Silverado, 5.3, x-cab, 2wd. The problem subsided and now has returned. I'll be taking it in for the recall on the brake line and will also let them fix the rear door latching problem, thanks to the posts here regarding the problem. Any help on the "original" power steering noise problems is appreciated.

slamphere

they replaced my rack and pinion system and it fixed the squealing noise. I think that it is the metering valve in the pump

bigjohn9

Just a follow-up on that hot tranny light I was getting. I'm sure the tranny overheated and
will probably continue to do so if this @#!$ thing doesn't drop into Drive when it's supposed
to. Took me about 700 miles to figure out what's going on but I finally discovered that the tranny
will stay in third and refuse to drop into drive. I even kicked it up to 80MPH, then let it coast
to 60MPH and it still stayed in 3rd. Had to shift it into neutral, then back to drive to get
it to drop into Drive. Happened twice on my last trip. Gotta keep a close eye on the tach when
going from a full stop up to freeway speeds. 2K RPM and all is well. 3K RPM and it's stuck
in 3rd. Back to the Dealer onFriday. At least I can explain it this time.

John

smith53

i to have a 2000 2wd silverado. it seems the noise diminishes in cooler weather or at least mine did.

jpfltaw

rear end dropped on my 99 and 2000 silverado 1500 ext cab sb 5.3 373 rear loc dif 2wd.
should I add a rear spring leaf or have the springs rearched or go with air bags???

the ride is getting more losey every day. dealer say it's in specs....

truck now drifts all over the road , 6 alignments, no luck. No tire wear, just will drift right then left,
then when a large rig passes you can hardly stay on the road.
Real scary to drive. started at 3000 mi. now has 14,000.

If it cant't be fixed, looking to dump it like the 99 that was so screwd up.

virgin1

I have been test driving a couple of used F150s and Silverados. Came across a used 99 Silverado, reg. cab, V6 Short Bed with 7300 miles. It is a dealer buyback with a clear title, in which the original owner states there was a "vibration" at cruising speed similiar to what has been posted on this site. I too found the same problem between 60 and 65 mph. The dealer balanced the tires and then determined the problem was a bent or "out of line" drive shaft and have ordered a new one from GM to make the fix. For those out there that have had the drive shaft replaced, do you still have problems. I am beginning to wonder if this truck is too good to be true and if I should keep looking. Any advise you all can give will be greatly appreciated...thanks.

xbbuster

I don't know if you have a two-piece drive shaft on your reg. cab but on my '00 2WD 4dr the dealer replaced the front shaft and it made a world of difference in the low speed vibration. Haven't tried it at highway speeds yet but the 30-45 mph is nearly gone. This is after eight repair attempts and going thru the BBB process. No other problems with the truck.

dch0300

Where abouts do you live?
My father has his trouble free 2000 Silverado 1500 LS, 2wd, reg cab, long box, tow pkg, 5.3L, auto, 34 gal gas tank, lock diff, white, etc, and canopy for sale. Only 10,500 miles on it. He purchased it on 12/18/99, so still under 3yr/36000 mile warranty. He decided he needed a 4wd so he bought a new 2001 Silverado 4x4.
I've driven it and it is nice, smooth and straight, no rattles, no vibs and will be a great truck for someone.
Kelly Blue Book high is $23,000 and low is $18,500.
He is asking $19,995.

-David

wight1

I've been reading about engine knock in the 5.3 and 6.0l engines for some time now. My 6.0 has this knock. Some folks have said its due to carbon build-up in the combustion chamber (as reported to them by their dealer) and others say its due to loose rod bearings, which where supposedly reworked in the 2001 models. But I've also read some 2001 owners reporting they have knocking too, so maybe it isn't rod bearings? Some folks have reported it went away after their dealer treated it with GM Engine Top Cleaner, but it returned after a while, which would say it is carbon deposit causing the knock. So which is it?

shiftless

2K GMC Sierra SLE, 4 WD, Regular Cab, Short Box,

This is the sequence of events which corrected my steering problems and may be the cure for others. Chevrolet & GMC are basically the same so I will post this in both forums.

BROUGHT IN TO GMC DEALERSHIP TO CORRECT AN OBVIOUS FRONT END MISALIGNMENT AT 7200 MILES.

Was informed that the original factory specs were wrong, two new tires were installed & new alignment specs were adjusted. The service Mgr. suggested a replacement of the intermediate steering shaft because after about 8000 miles or so, many developed a clunking sound.

A NEW INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT WAS INSTALLED.

At that time the service Mgr. suggested a replacement of the steering box because of slight pulling to the right.

A NEW STEERING BOX WAS INSTALLED.

Now for the first time there was an obvious excessive free play in the steering wheel and no improvement to other problems. This free play caused the need to constantly correct left to right to stay on the road. This was an especially dangerous problem on windy days.

I BLED THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM BY TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK TO LOCK ABOUT 6 TIMES. (This should have completely eliminated air from the system.)

That cured about 80% of the free play. I then took the truck back to have the dealership eliminate the rest of the free play. I suspected a defective steering box. After about 8 trips back to the dealer with this problem, the service Mgr. suggested I contact GM (number in the owners manual) to get a GM service Tech. involved. I did get immediate response from GM by phone. A service tech. came to evaluate and to do what ever he could to correct the problem.

THE SERVICE TECH. CENTERED THE SECTOR SHAFT AND READJUSTED TO CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL.

The thinking was that this would cure the pulling to either side. It did not eliminate the excessive free play. So I still had a problem. From that point I had no response from the dealer about my problem for over 3 weeks.

The next step accidentally cured the free play problem. I had to turn a loaded trailer around in a very narrow driveway. This took a lot of steering wheel turning.

I HAD TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK TO LOCK ABOUT 30 OR MORE TIMES. THIS ELIMINATED THE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM AND CORRECTED THE FREE PLAY PROBLEM. The steering now operates the way it should and there is also no pulling in either direction.

Sorry for the long post!
Ed

jed1894

You got to be joking! .... LOL

Unless you're going to get the truck for about $1000 with a 100,000 warranty, I would run the other way! You're asking for trouble buying a buy back.....and by-the-way, don't believe a word the dealer says about the truck. Ask the dealer for the original owner's name and number....or call the BBB and give them the VIN number and have them track down the original owner. Don't the let the dealer tell you that the information is not available....that would be BS! The dealer can print out a vehicle history of the truck, including the buy back information as well as the previous owner. Find that guy, or girl, and asked about the truck.

Good luck....John

ricsch

I'd steer clear from that truck, had a'00 2wd Silverado that had the vibes, replaced the rack & pinion(service bulletin on this "repair") and still had the shakes, went through the Better Business Bureau since GM said they did all they could do(?) and the truck was replaced with a new '01.

retired05

David, Your posting #501 from April 16 offered the list you have compiled for use when buying a new pick-up. Please e-mail to bhetman@encompserv.com Thanks for your offer / help in this.

dch0300

It's on it's way.
I hope the check list provides a little help and peace of mind that the truck your are buying is a good one. It did for me.
2950 miles, 4 months and still not one single problem what so ever with my 2001 Silverado LS, ext-cab, Z-71, loaded.
No rattles, vibs, shakes, knocking, leaks, squeaks, or wind noise. It drives straight, sits level, and is just a pure joy to drive. I'd buy this truck again in a minute.

-David

narg

WOOHOO! I finally got my dealer to listen to me this week.

I've got a 2000 Ext Cab, one that has the infamous 70Mph+ shake. Early on in the game with the dealer service, I suggested tires and/or rims. I was ignored.

Well, after rebuilding the front suspension, a new propeller shaft, and numerous balancing attempts, they agree last week to try a different set of tires. So, the service manager took all four tires and rim off his "demo truck" and put them on mine.

HOLY COW! I was driving a totally different vehicle. No shake whatsoever. At any speed up to 90+ (I'm too chicken to go faster

Well, I'm back to my original tires, and they are now going one tire/rim at a time to fix it. Right now I've got one new tire and new rim, and still have the shake. Apparently we haven't found the bad one(s) yet. But, it's the weekend, and I'll be back there on Monday ready for tire/rim #2.

One question did come to mind. My tires are Uniroyals, the ones we tried from the managers truck were Generals. I wonder if there is a particular bug with the current tires that any of them will have problems? I'd like to go back to the Generals, mainly because they were 255s, and I had 235s. But then again, the problem may be due to rims and not the tires? Painfully difficult problem to fix, but at least we know the solution now.

Anyone else have experiences on this?

redsilverado

i'm not even close to being a General tire fan, as a matter of fact i'm insulted to recieve my truck with the generals when i took delivery. however, i decided to leave em on until they wear out and then do as Obyone did and put the Michelin's on as replacements. so far i have 31,000 miles on my '00 with these tires and have just now started to see a slight vibe at around 70 mph. i have rotated them at least 5 times, but have never had them balanced. i consider myself lucky in the fact that only a steering shaft has needed replacement. so i hope you find the solution in the tires. i always kinda suspected either the wheels or the tires as the culprit in some of the vibration problems that some are experiencing.
our '01 had an ever so slight vibe at around 45 mph, but after a couple hundred miles it disappeared. it has 3,000 miles on it now and been flawless.(knock on wood)
-
red

abc246

My front tires on my 2000 Silverado Reg cab 4x4 are starting to feather on the outer ribs. The truck currently has 5000 miles and has Goodyear Wrangler ST 245R7516 tires. Is there a TBS on this? Is this a known problem? I suspect the truck is out of alignment but it drives OK. The front differential was replaced at 3000 miles so I guess the ball joints were separated. I am sure the dealer did not align after this repair. Is alignment covered under warranty, and if so, up to what mileage?

obyone

10k miles. That is assuming the tires have been rotated in accordance with the service manual. The cheap tires on the truck doesn't really help either. If you swap the front tires, running opposite direction, you will eliminate the feathering. Most of it can be attributed to driving style and the weight of the front end of the truck. That's what the dealer will tell you.

abc246

Thanks for the info. Do you think this truck is out of alignment or do you believe what is stated above about what the dealer will say? I drive my 99 Blazer harder than this Silverado and the Blazer tires are still in good shape with 44k miles. The Blazer weighs only about 250 lbs less than the Silverado according to the titles (4150 vs. 4400) and has smaller tires. I plan on bringing the truck in next week and any information would be helpful.

obyone

What's more important in tire wear (feathering) is the weight distribution as most of the trucks weight is in the front. Also, what kind of tires are on the blazer?

All three sets of General tires had feathering. AS General kept sending new sets, we figured that it was a tire defect. On the final set, the dealer agreed to upgrade to Michelins. After 4k miles on the Michelins, feathering started. Dealer checked alignment at least 4 times. Being an unbeliever, I had a friend who owns a shop with an alignment machine check out the alignment. He said that the dealer was telling the truth when they said it was within specs and that the feathering could be attributed to driving style, the heaviness of the truck's front end, and the need for rotation at earlier intervals. Coming from a friend, I had nothing more to say on the matter. He swapped the fronts and within a 1000 miles, feathering is gone.

Now on my '00 Denali which weighs close to 6000 lbs., well you should see the feathering on the Michelins on that one after only 2500 miles.

jaslon4

My 2001 chevy silverado with only 1900 miles on it. When i was stopped at a red light last night, then i hit the gas it was almost like a delayed reaction, then it kicked into gear. What should I do call the local dealer and see if they know whats going on.

obyone

check out the link for an answer.

http://209.35.112.209/performance/messages/96343.html