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Chevy Silverado Problems



  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    I imagine it's only a matter of time before 2001 TSBs start to appear. Anybody know of any yet? Mine is a regular cab, long box, 4WD w/AutoTrac, 5.3, 3.73, auto.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    I don't know if this is the correct one or not - looks like you need to spend $20 to find out.
    Anybody know a free way to get at this TSB information?
    BTW - I had a slightly rough idle after the injectors were flushed and one replaced, so I dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank for about the next 3 tanks of gas. Actually, I only filled up about 1/4 tanks so the concentration of the Techron would be greater. (If you read the back of the bottle, it recommends "up to 12 gallons" of gas when you put the cleaner in the tank.) I would go after the injector cleaner aggressively for a while and see what happens - it worked for me:)
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Rough Idle After Start, SES Light (Unstick/Clean CSFI Poppet Valves) #00-06-04-003
    Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves)
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade

    1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G, P Models

    1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

    with 4.3 L, 5.0 L or 5.7 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R -- RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)

    This bulletin is being revised to add new information to the Correction section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 87-65-07A (Section 06 -- Engine).

    Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be illuminated. Current misfire, or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.

    A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire condition.

    A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet valves to an "as new" condition. Injector replacement should NOT be considered as a correction for this customer concern.

    The first step in this process is to make sure that the poppets are operational. The cleaning procedure will be ineffective on a poppet nozzle that is stuck closed. The J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, provide the required high pressure (150 psi) source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech 2 to "energize" the injectors.

    The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 5% Top Engine Cleaner and 95% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.

    S/T and C/K Truck
    Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
    Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
    Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
    Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
    Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
    Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.

    Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
    Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.

    Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
    Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer, and spacer in the metering body.

    Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure that the fuel pipe O-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.

    Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.

    Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
    Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.

    Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
    Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to the metering body electrical connector.
    Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.

    Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
    Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
    Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
    Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times (as required) until the injector is operational.
    Repeat steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
    Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
    Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
    Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
    Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
    Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
    Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
    Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) to the distributor cap.
    Install the air inlet bonnet to the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
    Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.

    Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
    Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl.oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada P/N 992872), to the canister.
    Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
    Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
    Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
    Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
    Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to 75 psi.
    Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain 75 psi.
    Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
    Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
    Depressurize the J 35800-A.
    Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
    Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
    Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
    Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, (7) from the distributor cap.
    Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
    Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.

    Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.

    Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).

    Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the O-rings (6 and 8), washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
    Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1). Tighten
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    Somehow, I don't think the service techs at my local dealer really did all that to fix my rough idle, although they did find a bad injector. I have to give them credit for taking a whack at it.
  • onepatonepat Posts: 10
    after 8k miles of this problem, three different dealership checks, no cure. took the truck to the fourth shop, this time they had it in the body shop for two days, slight improvement, they had the cap off and did a complete air leak check. they said the problem is caused by the cap. the cap is an ARE not a junker. the noise is still very loud and as I said in my first post I don't hear well, any suggestions for my next move. I'm leaving on a 3000k trip in two weeks and don't think I can stand the noise that long.
  • jnorejnore Posts: 3
    I had my intermediate steering shaft replaced to fix my "clunky" steering problem in my 2000 Silverado. It fixed the problem and I noticed that the steering wheel was tight when I got it back. I could actually hear the steering wheel vinyl rub against the column's vinyl when I turned corners. No big deal. It went away after a while, but now the wheel is loose when I turn it about 45 degrees. The initial rubbing and the current loosness was obviously caused by the work done on the intermediate steering shaft, right? Wrong- says the dealership. The rep I was talking to said that it couldn't have anything to do with it. I disagree. It is NOT a coincidence. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • jed1894jed1894 Posts: 337
    GM may not give you a warranty since they gave you a motor. When I was going through both my BBB claims, we (GM, BBB and me) talked about a new motor. The deal/offers were: new motor with warranty, letter from GM stated if anything ever happened to motor it would be replaced, or ext. warranty. I picked the last one....They would not give me new motor and 100k major guard. If I got the new motor or letter I would not have gotten the warranty to cover everything on the vehicle. However, I did not push the issue....if I were you, I ask for the warranty like Obyone said. It never hurts to ask......tell them you believe that the motor problem may have caused other damage to the truck in some way.

    Another thing to consider: if you only get a new motor with 36k warranty, you're better off with 100k Major Guard coverage. You get extra warranty miles that way. If the motor (or anything else) goes at 99k, you're covered....

    Good luck

  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    Anyone have a chance to read my post #359? I sure would like some help and/or opinions. Another thing to add to that post is the body shop guy said "all new Chevy Trucks have about a 1 inch lean". My answer was "and that's supposed to make it right"??

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I had both sides sagging after about 3 months of ownership, the truck sat level. When I asked the dealer, he took one look at it and said, "defective leaf springs". Replaced both sides and truck sat at its usual back-end high postion with no lean in either direction. What would be the odds of having both leafs defective? Not sure but if I could have two.....
  • timothymtimothym Posts: 2
    I have a 4x2 extended cab 2000 Silverado with the two extended cab doors. In the cold weather I have a rattle coming from the general area where the passenger door and extended cab door meet. It is very annoying and ironically goes away after going about two miles (the inside cab warms up) Has anyone experience this?
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    I have the same problem. when it is cold (about 45 or colder) my drivers side 4th door rattles like crazy, about where my ear is. about 5 min of driving it is gone, in combination with a little heat. since it is by my ear, i think it sounds like an actuator rod, that once it warms up (expands) it becomes tight, therfore no rattle. Funny you mentioned it, i have tommorrow off and am planning on taking the door plastic molding off to see the root cause. if i get to it and find anything out i will let u know. from what you saay we have the identical problem, just different doors, and it drives me nuts.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    There is a TSB to fix the rear door rattling
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    what is the tsb #??

    post it here or on your site
  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    dean, you see to be the king of posting TSB'S, any help to post #371 or 372??
    ryan says there is a TSB but i checked on and i did not see one.
    thanks in advance pat
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches) #00-08-64-016
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches)
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    Some customers may comment that the 3rd or 4th door is hard to close when cold.

    There was a change to an internal bumper in the latch and the removal of the primary door seal internal plug.

    Verify proper alignment between the upper and lower striker before proceeding to the next step.
    Replace the upper and lower latch assemblies using the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section of the Service Manual.

    Remove the primary door seal internal plug across from the lower latch assembly.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    15057687 Latch Asm - LH Upper
    15057688 Latch Asm - RH Upper
    15063698 Latch Asm - Lower

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    B4650 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Right Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
    B4652 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Left Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    See i wasnt lying to you. Im just not as good as obyone with all the tsb numbers

    I dont think has updated their database lately. That tsb came out i think january/february.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262

    for complete list

    for example enter

    type " hard to close" and you will find the service bulletins as specified by obyone

  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    how do you get into those address. i clicked on it and got page unavaiable.

    dean, thanks for the tsb

    ryan, i believed you, just couldn't find it

  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    something is wrong with this Edmunds stuff, but you can simply cut and paste the URL.

    Notice that only the first part of the address is highlighted, therefore something is broken.

    Once you get to the site, make you a bookmark.

    Hope this helps
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    Thanks for the reply on my sag. Both leaf springs were already replaced. No change. Front coils were switched around. No change. Now I am having new coils installed. If this doesn't work, I say one more body shop can look at it, then it's time to talk to the Chevy regional guy. Do you think I'll have a leg to stand on?

  • pjcavpjcav Posts: 80
    i cut and pasted those url's to a word document, and they still showed up the same as edmunds. any other ideas, or other address.
  • timothymtimothym Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help and I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one with the door rattle problem. To 'obyone' thanks for the TB number. Now I have some ammunition when I visit the dealer.
  • chevy4mechevy4me Posts: 203
    I couldn't find a n ac pf59 so I cross referenced a fram 3675 and am getting knock tic at startup. I have always used the pf59 before with no tic so I'm wondering if the fram is the exact replacement or does it lack the check valve. I put in mobil 1 5-50
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    I always heard Fram was junk. Check out the link on oil filter studies.

  • slamphereslamphere Posts: 10
    Hey guys I have a problem I have been rounds with the dealer about the cold start knock and as you all know their answer is or was it is normal. The last time I was in the dealer they told me there was a fix coming out for the knock something about teflon coated pistons. Any way I was not happy so I went to GM about an asked about a extended warranty to 100k they offered a 60k drive train and no fix on the motor. I was wondering if any body has had their motor fail after 60k or has had their motor fail at all because of the knocking? Also had anybody had any luck with the better business bureau on this matter?

    I did tell the rep, after he offered a 60k that only a 100k bumper to bumper would make me happy. I will hear at the end of this week about the 100k.

  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    I'm curious as to why you put in Mobil 5w-50 instead of the recommended 5w-30?

    Mike L
  • tmurastmuras Posts: 4
    I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the rough idle and the throttle body, especially obyone. I ended up getting everything I wanted/needed from Chevrolet. The throttle body was replaced, and they are refunding me the cost of flushing out the injectors because of the rough idle.

    Just an FYI to all of you......the Better Business Bureau works great!
  • A couple of days ago I noticed a weird noise when I would take off in the truck. It almost sounds like a power steering pump that is out of fluid. It's gotten much worse over the last two days and now I have a burning smell. It only makes the noise in first gear. As soon as the tranny shifts into second, it's gone.

    I was starting to feel left out, seems as though everyone who posts on these boards has had some sort of problem but me. Guess I get to find out what my dealer is like when it comes to service tomorrow.
  • drgene78drgene78 Posts: 3
    and I am looking at the 1500HD Crew Cab silverodo 2001. I haven't been on a test drive yet, still looking at the options of a Chevy, GM, Ford or Dodge. I've perused this board and see many problems mentioned.. Doors won't close in cold weather, Ping in the tranny, bad service at the dealer so bring in the BBB. This will be my first pickup purchase and I want to do things right. Would any of you with experience with the 2001 be so kind to either speak good or evil over it?


  • chevy4mechevy4me Posts: 203
    The oil is mobil 1 5-30 wt.

    Can the oil filter be changed without draining the pan? I'm getting knock everytime I startup now and I think its the fram filter causing it. Or does the cold start knock begin after about 18000 miles are on the truck ?
This discussion has been closed.