Chevy Silverado Problems

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  • stevdmostevdmo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 standard cab. Since new I have had to really slam the drivers door to get it to close with the windows up, just slam it with a window down. Been to the dealer three times to get it fixed. First time was told to just let the seals seat, second time the door was adjusted so that it closed well, but the door edge was about 1/8" from being flush with the truck. Not acceptable. Third time was adjusted to be flush again, also have to slam it again. Now the service re says it has to go to a body shop to be fixed. I am not too comfortable with that situation. Either the door is defective or the truck hinges must be out of alignment. I am afraid the body shop will have to use a lot of force to bend something into proper position, and that I will end up with more problems than I have now. Do I have to let the dealer send the truck out to be repaired? What about a new door? And what can I do to cover myself if this leads to future problems? Any ideas are appreciated.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    cause autobody shops align doors on cars that are near totaled and gets better results than some manufacturers can out of the factory. In your case, it seems that the door hinges are not aligned. Since they are welded in place, the welds will probably have to be broken and bolts used to secure the door. If the autobody shop is any good. There should be an improvement. If not, ask the dealership's service dept. what's next on the list of possible fixes.
  • whiplash0whiplash0 Member Posts: 3
  • whiplash0whiplash0 Member Posts: 3
    My 1999 GMC SLT 1500 recently started making a noise after it was shut off. Investigation revealed the a pump located under the truck beneath the driver's door continued running. In order to make the pump stop I removed the ABS fuse under the hood. The problem was repaired by a Chevrolet dealer, who advised he was familiar with the problem. The repair bill was approximately $1700.00. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Thank you in advance.
  • mmcneelymmcneely Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Z71/5300 is due an oil change. Have used Castrol 30w in the past in the old 350's with
    good results. Should I use the GM recommended 5w-30 or can I keep using the straight 30w. Will there be any lube problems using the 30w. The truck will have Texas summers to deal with! Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Use either 5w 0r 10w-30. A lot have switched to Mobil 1 synthetic. There's also Royal Purple and a ton of others.
  • uncommonmanuncommonman Member Posts: 65
    For 2001 the torque and HP increases on the 4.8 and 5.3L engines were achieved by putting in the same camshaft as the 6.0 engine. Big job if you want to do it yourself or have it done, and mucho dinero ($$$).
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    There were no engine (hp or torque) increases for 2001 on the 4.8 or 5.3.

    For the yr 2000 model 5.3 they went up from 270 to 285 which for the 2001 model yr is the same
  • mwillemwille Member Posts: 15
    As an owner with a 2000 silvarado 29k with some problems my other truck is a 88 GMC 2500 with a 350 automatic 550,000 miles on the original drive train. the truck has been totaled 2 times and still runs like a champ. Even the A/c still works. Never even change the oil just add 1 qt a month. Hope I can get this out of the new truck (I do change the oil on that)
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Uh, I think you are wrong about the 6.0 cam in the 4.8 and the 5.3.

    The smaller motors already put out power higher in the rev range, and produce more hp per cubic inch than the 6.0. You could probably get more power in the 6.0 by putting the cams from the 4.8 or 5.3 in it.

    I have owned both the 4.8 and the 6.0.
  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    When I was shopping around for my 2000 - 5.3L Silverado I was told by 3 different dealerships that the increase in HP for the 4.8 and 5.3L engines was made by putting the 6.0L cams into the smaller V8 engines. Just because the smaller V8s produced more HP per cubic inch doesn't mean their cams were better.
    Ken
  • sf0383sf0383 Member Posts: 204
    I had the engine in my '92 1500 EC 5.7 rebuilt at 146,000 miles (PCV valve stuck in closed position and really gunked up the insides) Anyway, had the guy bore the engine and add a few little goodies like a high volume oil pump and the same cam used in a Z-28. That thing would run like a scalded dog.
  • uncommonmanuncommonman Member Posts: 65
    ryanbab #458 -- 10-4 on that. I have so many GMC brochures (which look alike) I get them confused. Plus I suffer from CRS lately.

    markbuck #460 -- I read (in Machine Design magazine, I believe) that the HP/torque increases were attributed to the smaller engines getting the cam from the 6.0.

    Sorry for any misinformation I am responsible for here. I stick by my comment about the same camshaft in all 3 engines.
  • bigjohn9bigjohn9 Member Posts: 3
    The "Trans Fluid Hot" indicator came on in my '01 Silverado with just 215 miles on it. I had less than 500 pounds in the bed of the truck. It happened again at 400 miles on the return leg of my trip. The mechanic at the dealership tells me I should be using "Tow/Haul mode" with that much weight (?) in the vehicle but I'm having a hard time understanding how tow/haul mode helps once I've come to cruising speed and the tranny isn't shifting anymore (I had been at 70MPH for 20 minutes when it happened the first time and 2 hours when it happened the second). Is this a common problem among Silverados? What damage, if any, am I doing by driving it like this for 5 or 10 miles to the next exit? My 10 year old 6 cylinder S10 hauled my Suzuki quad around for years without grumbling. I find it hard to believe that a full-sized 4X4 truck with a V8 and heavy suspension can't do it without assistance. Thanks for any help!

    BigJohn
  • onepatonepat Member Posts: 10
    After 4 dealerships and 9k miles of bitching I found the cause of the very loud wind and road noise in my 2001 re cab short box. It is the pressure relief flaps in the lower back of the cab. To make my 3k mile trip bare able I stuffed rolled up sponge rubber between the cab and the box at both flap grills. I had to open a window to close the doors. I will be calling GM tomorrow to find a real cure. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • hunter98hunter98 Member Posts: 273
    Sounds like your truck just has really tight insulation in it. I have a friend with a 94 3/4 ton and for a flush shut, he has to crack a window first. But it makes for a much quieter cab.

    BigJohn, your truck, no matter what engine you have, has either a transmission or a sensor problem. GET IT CHECKED OUT, if you have to, change dealerships. No, you should not be useing tow haul with that little a load. The rule is kinda like half of rated towing capacity, or about 4000 lbs towing with a 5.3l. Or whenever you want to use it. It changes the shift firmness and points. Doesn't change how the transmission runs at 70 mph at all. I have put 40,000 miles on a 99 and 2000 Ext Cab 4x4 5.3l, never seen any warning lights, except, change engine oil indicator, and low washer fluid. I have towed loads around 10,000 for 50 miles, 55 mph no problem. Have also towed 13,000 at 30 mph many times. Towed even heavier loads at low speed. This is more prone to running into a problem and never seen it.

    Good luck to you, You may have to change dealers

    Hunter
  • blacksilverblacksilver Member Posts: 69
    You've got a problem -- either bad sensor, or if they tranny is really getting hot then something serious!

    500lb load should not even be NOTICED, let alone call for "tow/haul" mode. That mechanic is an idiot.

    Hans
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Seems that it is a nationwide plague.
  • trucks4me2trucks4me2 Member Posts: 31
    I agree with the others. It sounds like a sensor or other internal malfunction. It could be a bad Trans Cooler (like a partially blocked line). Do you have a trans temp gauge? If so, what was it indicating. Let us know what the outcome is.

    Stan
  • 64roadster64roadster Member Posts: 19
    I posted this earlier, still hoping I might get a response; or if you can refer me to prior postings.... I would appreciate it !

    Just purchased my new 2001 2 WD 1500 LS extended cab with 4.8L, Auto Trans and locking 3.73 differential. I have faithfully read these and other posts over the last 3 months prior to buying my new truck. There were several exchanges dealing with
    Silverado "Sag". Thinking I would avoid problems up front, I checked my truck out before taking
    ownership and found it to sit half an inch higher on the right. I was prepared to kill
    the deal, but after measuring the other 15 similar trucks sitting on the lot, I found
    90% of them to be off > half an inch also. In fact there were 2 with > one inch of
    difference. Most of the trucks were higher on the right but not always. So I
    purchased the truck anyway and had my concerns/findings written up in order to
    make sure it was covered in the warranty.
    My question is: Does this problem correct over time? and if so, how many miles
    should I wait before having the dealer correct the problem? What type of corrections
    have worked and not worked? The dealer's suspension guy looked mine over before I
    bought it and said he would place a stiffer coil spring on the front driver's side if he
    were to fix it now.
  • akplateakplate Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 4.9L and automatic trans. A plain truck with very limited additional items. I am wondering, it is worth to purchase a extended service plan. The dealer is asking $1400 for bumper-to-bumper coverage, 100,000 miles/7 years. (4 additional years to factory warranty). This is my first truck and would like anyone's experience with GM/Chevy trucks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Why do you have to decide now on whether to acquire one or not since it wouldn't go into effect till your factory warranty is up? I would wait till you see exactly what your truck is made of in the first three years before buying. In a perfect world, I would say to nix the extended warranty as it is a money maker for the dealer. From what I've seen on this board, it may be a good idea to buy one down the road a couple of years.

    64roadster

    Out of curiosity, have you ever measured the difference between left and right on any of your cars? Just wondering cause in my opinion, 1/2" is not a big deal. For now, I would let the truck break in and from time to time check on the difference after you've carried loads or towed or whatever you bought the truck to do. BTW, keep the initial measurements just in case you do have a case of the sagging springs.
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    As for the extended warranty, is this an aftermarket warranty? I've only seen a 6yr/100k GM warranty available. Price seems steep. Only advantage of buying an ext. warranty now is to avoid any price increases.Local Chevy dealer recommends the GM warranty over others.

    Now for the unlevel truck, you'd be hard-pressed to find a vehicle that sits perfectly level, new or used. I agree with obyone, get some miles on it, and if the measurements change alot, then have it checked.
  • chadc777chadc777 Member Posts: 54
    GM offers a variety of warranty plans. Even the 100,000 mile warranty has three flavors (and prices) a 5, 6, or 7 year. Can't recall the prices right now but they vary with the vehicle and 4x4 or not. I think the 5yr/100K was around $1,900 on a Silv. 4x4.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    could it be sitting higher on the right due to the gas tank on the left?
  • western6western6 Member Posts: 11
    have the dealer check your torsion bars I have a 2001 2500hd cc it was also sitting low.
  • jaslon4jaslon4 Member Posts: 15
    i have a 2001 chevy silverado with the 4.8 V-8. The oil pressure goes from 65 (when reves go up) and can go down to 45 ( when reves go down) Is this normal. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    its normal
  • ness5575ness5575 Member Posts: 29
    I have been looking around for a Major Gaurd Gm extended warranty for my 2000 Silverado 4X4.
    The prices i have gotten for a 5/100 with zero deductible have ranged from $2150 to $3275. I have no idea why i get such range of prices for buying the same warranty (all the dealers claim that the price they quotes me was their cost). But, i have also been told that if i would have purchased the warranty at the time i bought the truck it would have been significantly lower cost on the warranty. I would say that if you are going to keep the truck and want to get the warranty, get it now. I think i am going to go with 1source cause the same warranty is only $1200. I would have more faith in the GM warranty, but not for an extra $1000.
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    not choosing sides here, but a ways back (before i bought my truck in jan of '00) i had heard the same thing. in fact it was mentioned here. i remember the discussion clearly because as soon as the alleged announcement was made that they put the 6.0 cam in the 5.3 and 4.8, everyone was like, "why the *&^% didn't they just do that in the first place???"

    again, not saying if it's the reason for the hp/torque increase or not, just that i heard the same thing.

    bco
  • hunter48hunter48 Member Posts: 30
    Hello every one , I have 2001 silverado 5.3 not real happy with it, I'm the one that posted the 2001 oil pressure problem and metal powder on drain plug.Right now the pressure at idle is 40 and if you would go out and pass someone the pressure would go as high as 80 then back to 40 and every time you go to start the engine cold or hot the engine rattles like the oil pump loses its prime I'm useing AC filter p59 can anyone shed some light on this problem?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Cause the symptoms sounds like piston slap to me.
  • hunter48hunter48 Member Posts: 30
    Did someone run a sale on pistons or what,I herd that this has been a problem for chevy.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    also appearing in the 4.7 Toyota. Tho Ford seems to have solved theirs.
  • blair223blair223 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2000 Sliverado 2500 with 12,000 miles. Got it back in Oct of 2000 and used the 4-wheel drive a few times during the winter (Upstate NY). Last week the "Check 4-wheel drive" message came up after about a 45 min commute to work. It was in 2-wheel drive at the time and when I tried to go to 4-wheel, it refused. It happened again on the way home from work but not since then. I have been able to go in and out of 4-wheel drive fine. I took it to the dealer but they could find nothing wrong and no codes came up. Anyone had a similar problem.

    Other than this incident and the hard to close doors when cold, which I am having fixed thanks to the great posts on this message board, I have loved this truck. Having a couple hick-ups with a truck this complex does not surprise me. Its been a pleasure to drive.
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    Does anyone recall a fix for the 2wd Silverado vibration involving the replacement of the front drive shaft? Dealer just replaced mine but during the short drive home it seems the same. Also does the vibration seem to get worse after a five or six hundred pound load is removed from the bed?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Are you talking about vibrations at what speed? or launch shudder?
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    The vibration is as its always been, in the steering wheel and seats at 28-40 mph and again at 60-70 mph. Tires have been balanced many times, (one replaced), computer reprogramed, and now a driveshaft. Not much difference than when it was new, (5/'00). Just turned 3k mi., don't feel much like driving it.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    That may be next. the build date on the truck ('00 Silverado 4dr. sb. 2wd) was May 2000, supposedly after the reinforced R&P was installed at the factory. The dealer seems convinced the problem is in the drive train.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    related to when the truck shifts? Like say it wouldn't vibrate in 2nd but vibrate in third? I noticed you said 28-40. That would pretty much eliminate the tires especially at 28 mph.

    Let me put it another way. Under full throttle, does the truck vibrate at 28 mph? or 35mph?
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    The steering wheel and seat vibration is most noticable between the speeds of 28 to 40 mph and then at 60 to 70 mph. This is under normal driving conditions, normal acceleration. I haven't tried full throttle acceleration to 40 mph yet. the transmission shifts very smooth and whatever forward gear I'm in makes no difference, the vibration is still there.

    On oil filters....Bought a Wix 51522 today. The counter man said it crosses with an AC PF59.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    I am thinking of purchasing a new Chewy Silver ado. Vie looked at the board and saw a bunch of complaints. Overall... Is the truck worth getting? I thinking of purchasing within the next two months. Should I wait for 2002 models or look for another truck? Any advice from you Silver ado owners would be appreciated!

    Thanks!
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Xbbuster:

    Did they replace the whole drive shaft? You said "front" drive shaft. Does that mean the forward part of your shaft?

    I believe there is a TSB to replace the entire 2 piece shaft with a 1 piece shaft (Obyone can confirm this). It requires some work by the dealer. If you still have a 2 piece shaft, and there is a TSB to replace the entire shaft, make them do it. Until you get that fixed or eliminated, you may be missing a major source of your problem.

    By-the-way.....what kind of rims and tires do you have?

    John
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    Anyone.....

    What's this "subscribe to this discussion by email" thing edmunds has? Has anyong tried that? What's that all about?

    John
  • xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    jed1894
    they replaced the forward driveshaft only. I asked the service mgr. about any service bulletins to convert to a single shaft he said it wasn't necessary. The wheels are steel (chromed) and the tires are Goodyear Wrangler 235/75R 16. A while back they replaced one of the tires because it failed a load force balance job. One dealer claimed I had a bent wheel another said they were OK. Something to remember; the vibration comes and goes and it's worse after removing a 500 pound load from the bed.
  • jnorejnore Member Posts: 3
    Is there really a TSB on a 2 piece to 1 piece drive shaft? If so, does this take care of the "drive line clunk" and slack? More info please....
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The one piece doesn't take care of the drive line clunk.
  • wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    I noticed over the weekend my 2000 model 2500 2wd apparently has developed a leak at both rear axle oil seals. The right side one is seeping pretty good. I've never had this problem on any other truck I've owned. Anybody else had this on their Silverado?
  • scootter31scootter31 Member Posts: 31
    wight

    I just looked at mine. No leaks. I did notice that the paint on the diff cover is coming off in sheets.

    tit2

    Can you explain why the paint is coming of my diff cover?

    Scott
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