I have the same problem on my 98. I just pulled the dash bottom apart and found the acutators near the gas pedal to work but the lower one had a problem. The plate that it moves was either broken or disconnected on the inside of the blower cowling. I pulled the actuator from the plate and moved it by hand, definitly had a problem. I replaced the heater core last year had to pull the dash to take the blower cowling/assy out 10 hrs later done. That is what this would take to fix the prob. Instead I took a piece of 1/4 " fuel line I had hanging around put it up the floor duct about 1-1.5' and it opened the plate have floor heat now, in the summer I'll think about a good fix. This worked for me. Good luck
Mine wouldn't go into 4H, and I don't remember trying the 4L. We simply unhooked the battery for 5 minutes and then plugged the battery back in and it appears to work fine now. Something about needing to reset the computer... Cheap easy fix if it works.
hey everybody, I'm wondering if anyone has any input on this. I have a 1999 s10 with the 2.2L engine. Haven't had any actual problems so far. For some reason when the engine is warmed up, it can't go past 3000 rpm. When I took it to the dealer for diagnostic, they ended up replacing the crankshaft sensor, and a injector on the no. 1 cylinder. However the problem is still there, the mechanics at the dealer are stumped. The number 1 cylinder is still reading a missfire at higher rpms. All they said is it could be either the drive chain tensioner or a bad valve. Since either one involves lots of time and money (both of which are at a premium), I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions, besides getting a 4.3L engine?
My duaghter has a 1987 S10 4x4 whit 4.3 automatic trans. It will run great for about 1 mile then quits. I haven't had the time to check it out yet but would apperciate any comments. Also after it quits it won't restart for a couple of hours. Then will only run for about another mile.
I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that it has a manual transmission, so without higher engine speeds I'm driving like a granny. I usually shift around 3200-3600 rpm when I'm driving ( I live in Central Pennsylvania, lots of hills and moutnains)
My s10 has had some strange problems. It is a Vortec V6, LS. I don't know if these are problems that others are having, or if i'm the only one.
1)My truck has had the "service engine soon" light on for a while. The truck will begin to miss, and eventually run on what sounds like 3-4 cylinders. If i let off the gas, the motor will catch up and start to run normal again.
2)Also, when i am driving, the ABS and Parking Brake lights will light up in my dash. The truck will stumble, and almost sound like ity cuts out for a second. I've had problems in the past with this occuring and ultimately causing the truck to die. This has even happened on the Interstate!
Whenever I took it a shop to let a friend of mine hook up a diagnostic machine to it, he found and cleared two codes. A 0300 and a 0350 I THINK. I know for sure one of them was an emissions code. I didn't even get out of the driveway before it started missing and running rough again.
These problems have baffled everyone who i've asked. ANY suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated.
I have been to Lock Haven ,lots of hills there. Well chain tensioner problem would have a sound of the chain slapping on the front cover, lots of noise. Bad valve would be eliminated with a compression check. Did they check fuel pressure under load, that could be a cause.
I have a coolant leak that I cannot find the source of. The water is dripping off the transmission. I have checked all 4 coolant hoses and the coolant block plugs.
The water is dripping off out of the engine from the back right somewhere I cant see the source of, I can only follow the water trail up until I can't follow it anymore. I have some links here with pictures of the leaks in the hope that someone here might be able to tell me where the leak might be coming from.
When you say "right side" .... You mean the passenger Side - correct ?? If so - did you look at/under the heater core /fire wall area in the Engine compartment ?? And check your rug under the heater on the passenger side ...
Also - Give some more details - Year, Mileage, Engine size, etc ...
Looks like i have the same problem as of now. Wheni hit the brakes my left side goes out even my light for the license plate goes out. so your saying all i need to do is clean my prongs and all? I did add wires for a trailer. :confuse:
When I hit my brakes the only light that works is the top center one, above the hatch. My other lights come on only when the headlights are on but they do not get brighter when the brake pedal is pressed. All the fuses are fine, and I even changed the tail light lamps. I did notice that my hazard signal is not working either...once again all fuses are good...
I had a leak on mine also,...took a while to find. There was a small pinhole on the back side of the metal tube that connects the thermostat to the radiator hose. I used JB weld ti fix her up.
The brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch, which cancels the brake light to indicate a turn when the brake pedal is depressed. What year is this thing so I can post the correct wiring checks?
Previously - "Sounds like its creating a vacuum in the tank and fuel lines. Try replacing your gas cap with a vented one"
Ah yes! That's a good pick up - I missed that. They said Engine starts runs fine - then craps out - and needs time for the vacuum lock to go away.... Good Catch. I'd also check the Vapor lines in / around the Gas fill area + the vapor canister under the hood ...
Actually - they could just "Loosen" the cap and take it for a ride - if it runs OK - it's something we've mentioned here (hopefully)
I know the door switches are working because the buzzer turns off when the doors are closed but the interior lights do not turn off. The dash dimmer works properly. The lights even stay on when the key is removed so I have had to remove all interior light bulbs.
Should I replace the dash dimmer (because that is also the interior light switch)?
Where is the interior lamp control module located? It's called out on the schematic but I don't know where it is located. Could it be that?
All tests done with brake pedal depressed. Should be power in at brake switch orange wire at all times, power out at white wire. If ok, check for power at multifunction switch white wire. If ok, check for power at the yellow and dark green wires from the multifunction switch. If ok, there's an open circuit in the rear body harness. If no power out, replace the switch.
MY TRUCK DIED WHILE I WAS ON THE HWY NOW IT CRANKS BUT WONT START I REPLACED THE CONTROL MOD AND THE PICKUP COIL AND THE COIL I CAN HERE THE FUEL PUMP HUMMING WHEN I TURN THE KEY ON CAN YOU HELP
I have a 1983 s-10 and i don't know if the starter is out or what, but it sounds like it should, except the engine is not turning over. Some people have told me that the wires are just dirty and they need to be cleaned. Does anybody have any idea what is wrong?
I am having an idle problem with my sonoma. The truck was my grandparents and was not drove very hard or very much,it only has 64,000 miles on it. The problem accrues when the truck is hot and in gear. For example if I drive to work 25 miles away I pull up to a red light the truck wants to die, but never does. The oil pressure I noticed goes up and down as the truck idles up and down. If I put the truck in neutral or park it seems to idle fine. I have replaced the EGR valve,CO2 sensor and the thermostat. If you have any idea what the problem could be please respond I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you for the info, canufixit. I have not checked this thread in a number of days, as you can see, but I will attempt the door lock reprogramming on my 2002 S-10. As I remember, it was a combination of lock and unlock cycles on the drivers' door lock switch. I'll try again. As for the PCM, I'd like to have the GM scantool $$$$$, and the ability to download the proper flash, not only for this vehicle, but for my others also. Thanks again -Bob
OK im confused. When i spin the tires to the right my truck wants to pull to the right while im trying to drive. But when i spin and turn left it steers fine afterwards . The tires are even. And it only has 57k miles and the transmisson works fine and the clutch is fine but it pulls when i spin my truck to the right. even if i put the damn thing in nutural and coast it still pulls . The only time it stops pulling is when i stop or spin to the left PLEASE HELP ME figure out whats going on cause its pissing my off real bad
i parked my s10 one day for a week and now it won't start. it has spark and is getting gas.Think it is my emobelizer? my remote is broken.My radio is also locked out. I called AAA to tow it and he locked unlocked it 5 times and it started. got it going one more time after that but it ran ruff, spuddering alot at idle.it only has 30,000 miles on it, why won't it start. It ran great before I parked it
my truck drove fine until one day when i noticed it seemed like it wanted die while idling then like a day later it started jerking and cutting off while i was going down the road. so i parked it for like two weeks until my dad had time to check it and he drove it down the street and he didn't see any signs of it cuttin off or anything so he brought it back and the next day i try it and did't seemed to want to start but it ended starting and when i drove it started to jerk and cut off again and then it sat for a couple more weeks. then we put a crankshaft sensor on it and it still wouldn't start so we check to see if it was getting fire and wasn't we had the pick up module checked and it was good. so we checked to see if we could hear the fuel pump workin and it was. so if anyone could give me any helpful info i would really appreciate it very very much!
No heat comes through the inside cabin of my 2001 chevy S10, 4.3 liter engine. The AC works fine however at all fan speeds. I have tried all modes of operation on the control for heating but nothing works. Engine temperature is normal--180-190 degress on the temperature gauge with no overheating in engine. Whta could be wrong? Thanks Ken38 ###
After changing the oil in my Alero 2001, I press the reset button in the small side fuse panel [left of steering] to reset the oil light but the light still stays on. Instead, it keeps blinking then, I reset again but it does not go off.
i have a 1986 2.8 f.i. engine from a 86 cadillac cimmeron that the car is junked so i bought a 1983 s-10 with a 2.8 with a carb, is what i want to do is switch all the parts from the 83 engine ie: manifold and carb and all other parts to the long block of the 86 engine but some people say it will interchange and other say it will not. am i wasteing my time? they also said the cams are different from a f.i. engine and a carb engine. help pat(slotracer) :sick:
On the road I stopped and switched off the S10/2.2ltr/1999 and after 15 minutes tried to restart. There was a short rattling sound from the solenoid. This noise i had everytime i tried to start the car. then i tried to start the car while it was pushed, then towed and later with a jumpstart. but it does not start anymore. i have the Haynes S-10 repair manual. it suggests battery is full charged, which is not, but i thought that by jumpstarting the car should start anyway. What is your advice? Buy a new battery and when that does not help check the solenoid, then starter motor?
Sounds to me like a plugged heater core. Happened to my 99 ZR2 as well. Dexcool antifreeze can cause this if not changed when it should be (5 yrs I think). I hooked a garden hose to the heater core outlet and ran the inlet hose to a bucket and backflushed it. You'll be amazed at what comes out of there. While you're at it better give the entire cooling system a good flush because Dexcool can gel and cause major problems.(there are apparently class action lawsuits under way on this issue). I flushed mine really well and went to ethylene glycol (the standard green stuff), but I'm not sure I'd recommend that because shortly after that my water pump went which led to overheating the 4.3 vortec and a leaking intake manifold gasket and a blown heater core! Anyway hope that helps.
FIRST - Check All the connections - Remove, clean and re-install (Battery, Starter AND Gronf connections on the Block Chassis, etc .... Check the Heavy wires for "Bulges" ( corrosion inside the insulation), etc ... Replace andy wire that are suspect ... It only takes a few minutes - but I've seen multiple cars have lots aof parts changed - onlyt to find out a bad connection and 15 min. cleaning time was all it needed. If the Lights come on good and bright - and if it does not dtatrt even with a jump (after you check those connections -right?) - it's probably the Starter / solenoid.
Comments
1)My truck has had the "service engine soon" light on for a while. The truck will begin to miss, and eventually run on what sounds like 3-4 cylinders. If i let off the gas, the motor will catch up and start to run normal again.
2)Also, when i am driving, the ABS and Parking Brake lights will light up in my dash. The truck will stumble, and almost sound like ity cuts out for a second. I've had problems in the past with this occuring and ultimately causing the truck to die. This has even happened on the Interstate!
Whenever I took it a shop to let a friend of mine hook up a diagnostic machine to it, he found and cleared two codes. A 0300 and a 0350 I THINK. I know for sure one of them was an emissions code. I didn't even get out of the driveway before it started missing and running rough again.
These problems have baffled everyone who i've asked. ANY suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated.
Did they check fuel pressure under load, that could be a cause.
The water is dripping off out of the engine from the back right somewhere I cant see the source of, I can only follow the water trail up until I can't follow it anymore. I have some links here with pictures of the leaks in the hope that someone here might be able to tell me where the leak might be coming from.
Engine Pic1
Engine Pic2
Also - Give some more details - Year, Mileage, Engine size, etc ...
Any advice will be gratly appreciated.
"Sounds like its creating a vacuum in the tank and fuel lines. Try replacing your gas cap with a vented one"
Ah yes! That's a good pick up - I missed that. They said Engine starts runs fine - then craps out - and needs time for the vacuum lock to go away.... Good Catch. I'd also check the Vapor lines in / around the Gas fill area + the vapor canister under the hood ...
Actually - they could just "Loosen" the cap and take it for a ride - if it runs OK - it's something we've mentioned here (hopefully)
Canufixit
Should I replace the dash dimmer (because that is also the interior light switch)?
Where is the interior lamp control module located? It's called out on the schematic but I don't know where it is located. Could it be that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
:confuse:
Thanks
And please release your CAPS LOCK key.
If so - I'd check the front AND rear wheel alignment.
No heat comes through the inside cabin of my 2001 chevy S10, 4.3 liter engine.
The AC works fine however at all fan speeds. I have tried all modes of operation on the control for heating but nothing works. Engine temperature is normal--180-190 degress on the temperature gauge with no overheating in engine.
Whta could be wrong?
Thanks
Ken38
###
After changing the oil in my Alero 2001, I press the reset button in the small side fuse panel [left of steering] to reset the oil light but the light still stays on. Instead, it keeps blinking then, I reset again but it does not go off.
What is the correct solution?
Thanks
ken38
###
pat(slotracer) :sick:
It only takes a few minutes - but I've seen multiple cars have lots aof parts changed - onlyt to find out a bad connection and 15 min. cleaning time was all it needed.
If the Lights come on good and bright - and if it does not dtatrt even with a jump (after you check those connections -right?) - it's probably the Starter / solenoid.