I'm going to be heading down to my dealer's parts department to pick up some touch-up paint this weekend. I hope that I never have to use it, but road construction around here is in full swing. YIKES!
Anyway, I was thinking about getting some of the following items from Mazda for my new baby. Any opinions on the following would be most appreciated:
1. Moon Roof Deflector (Anyone DIY install this one?) 2. Floor Mats (What do they look like for the P5?) 3. Cargo Net 4. Mud Flaps
Has anyone heard that Mazda may be boosting up the horse power of the P5 for the next model. If so to what amount. I thought I read it somewhere before but I can't find it.
F.Y.I. while I was looking around for my P5 here in cowtown. I was told that the dealership cannot install MUD FLAPS because of the GROUND EFFECTS. I found this hard to believe untill all the dealership in my area confirmed it.
I am waiting for my BLUE 5 Sad which is due here any day. Boat docked ten days ago. Paid $300 UNDER MSRP. Would have liked to have done better, but the price you pay for being early! (pg - Chrysler dealer in town had 5 CT Cruisers sitting there so I guess you can deal on them now!) It was an easy negotiation, so you wonder if you left money on the table or it was just a dealer who didn't fool around! Leunenberg, Mass.
MY QUESTION - Has anyone found a Bike Rack they liked for the "5"? Was it a roof mount or a trunk lid mount? If Roof mount, did you have to buy new crossbars? Did it attach to the factory rails or crossbars?
Has anyone added a DC changer, OTHER than the in dash unit? This car replaces an 87 Accord Hatch back with 160,000 miles on it. Hope it does as well!
I got the Moon Roof Deflector, Cargo Net, and Floor Mats with the vehicle. It seemed odd that these were included on the sticker rather than dealer installed options. The Moon Roof Deflector is essential to cut down on the wind noise and it actually looks fine on the car. I test drove a car without one and the noise was pretty loud when getting close to 80mph. The install looks pretty easy and I think someone else posted a while back about how to do it.
The Cargo Net is nothing special, but it does help keep everything in its place.
I like the floor mats. They seem like they are pretty good quality and they have "Mazda" embroidered into the mat in silver. The good thing is that they are a perfect fit in the driver and passenger wheel wells, but they are $80.
By the way, the touch up paint is usually a special order unless your color was available last year on another car. I ordered that and a set of wheel locks last week and they just came in yesterday. Hope that helps.
I asked my salesman the other day about the financing and payment deferrals. I had ordered my pro5 on 5/29, and it still isn't in. He called back, saying not to worry as my order was already in. Hope he's right...
Thanks for the info. I'll check on the paint and probably get everything but the mudflaps. Strange about the flaps vs. ground effects, though. I'll take the ground effects over mudflaps, any day! I was more concerned about gravel or road debris flying along the lower sides of the car.
I test drove a different P5 about three weeks ago and the noise from the moon roof was a lot worse on that one. I'm not sure why. I am sure the deflector will cut down the wind noise a bunch. It seems to come mostly from the front roof rack cross member.
From my understanding, the 2003 Protege will move to the Focus platform and use the Ford Zetec 2.0L DOHC engine and the new Ford 2.3L DOHC engine. Therefore, expect virtually no changes and no power increases until the model change-over.
So would that be 1 more model year or 2 of the current, Japanese design? Just curious as I am hoping to buy one next year and do not want the Focus-based car.
I've added a Clarion 6 disc cd changer and a 8" Bazooka tube. Routing of the internal wiring was easy, but finding a hole in the firewall for the power line was difficult until I made one.
I'm still looking for a bike rack, either roof or trunk mounted.
I am not sure. It seems all of the "experts" are calling for a 2003 redesign. Perhaps the Protege5 will have a really long production run of 2002 models...
the graduate program's payment deferral has just been extended to 10/01. i'm so psyched. i've got a vin # on my car, so it shouldn't be long after aug. 1st!
one thing remains unclear. does anyone know if we have to still pay interest during the 180 days deferred payment, or if that is also deferred for 6 months?
I use a Mondial roof rack (sold by Performance Bike under their "Xsport Express" name, sold by Bike Nashbar under Mondial's own name) on my sedan. I got it mostly for the load bars (integrated locks and the ends don't stick out past the towers). They have adapters so you can stick their bike holders onto a factory-spec roof rack, but their holders aren't much different from Yakima or Thule holders. Saris also makes a nice roof rack.
Hitch racks usually require 2" hitches. Some will fit a 1-1/4" hitch.
Pick your poison. Roof racks keep the bikes out of your line of sight and keep them from getting damaged by your getting rear-ended. However, you have to get them up there and they make a lot of wind noise and really increase your wind resistance. Expect to carry 2, maybe 3 bikes on a Pro. I like the Mondial and Saris roof racks.
Trunk racks can scratch your paint where the pads touch your car. The bikes are exposed to rear-ending and stick out past the sides of the Pro. However, they're easier to load and there's less wind noise. They're also the cheapest. Capacity ranges from 2-4. Rhode Gear, Saris make nice trunk racks.
The same goes for hitch racks (except the paint-scratching). They can be more convenient than trunk racks in that some can pivot down out of the way of the rear hatch. They cost more and require installation of a hitch. Capacity ranges from 2-5 (typically 2 or 4). Rhode Gear, Saris, Graber make nice hitch racks. However, most don't accomodate "Y" frames or other designs that deviate too much from the traditional triangular truss design. I've heard of one made by a northwestern-based (WA, OR?) company that can accomodate various frame designs, but I don't remember the name. I'll find out from my co-worker who has one.
I'm very interested in a Protege5 with a manual but I will be moving to Los Angeles within a year...Does anyone think it would be foolish to have a five speed there? Is it worth getting the automatic?
I took the jump and got on the Protege5 bandwagon. Ordered mine on July 2 in Burlington ON. They are telling me by the end of July, but from what I have read here, I suspect I will be waiting longer. I am told that there are 4 coming in that are spoken for and I am the 5th in line. Basically, they have no clue yet. They say they will try and trade a car... That said, I am willing to wait.
Stereo - What is the size of the front door speakers? Has anyone had experience with removing the factory stereo head unit? I will be installing my MP3 Kenwood unit and would like to know if there are any tricks on how to get the faceplate off w/out damaging any parts.. I suspect that it starts by removing the cover wher the MD Player would go...
I live in Orange County(just south of LA) and prefer to drive manual trans vehicles. Our traffic is similar to LA's and it has never bothered me. In fact, the times I have had to drive an auto, the gas/brake up and down was just as annoying as the left leg flexer. If you really live the 5-speed I say go for it...I would.
We love our new Protege5, and have read some of the posts refering to the wind noise from the sunroof - We don't have a sunroof, but we had alot of wind noise as well. We had the dealer remove the the roof rack cross members and install the included filler panels. The noise is gone! Would recommend that if you don't plan on using the racks, have them removed before you even take it home.
I got my P5 a couple of weeks ago and I love it. I've got almost 2k mikes on it already.
I needed a roof rack quick, so I couldn't get one of the generic ones and I didn't want to use extra load bars and stanchions. I went to my LBS and found a great solution. He had some mounts for an old Thule system that never quite caught on (Thule Design 800). If you look at the stock load bars on the P5, you'll notice a rubber strip that runs across it. This strip hides a channel. The 800 had a similar channel and this kit fits perfectly. The only catch here is that you have to find a Thule 529 bike carrier and you'll have to shorten the tray (cutting) about 3" to clear the spoiler.
This setup cost me less that $100 for one rack. If anyone is interested, i can get more of these adapters for cheap. You should probably be able to get the 529 carrier used for about $50. maybe try e-bay.
The look is very clean and gas mileage didn't suffer too badly. New engine, one bike (Ibis Mojo, hee hee), and loaded with camping gear on the inside, I got about 26 mpg. That was going about 80 or 90, so the rack is very secure.
I just bought my Protege5 in Silver - fully loaded and I LOVE IT! I sold my 93 Honda Civic and am now a happy Mazda owner (so far). I do share the same concerns of the other posts (I tried to remove the roof rack, but I couldn't get the internal lugs off after removing the screws). Since replacement parts came with it, we all know it can be done. Sounds like a job for the dealer. Also, I'd like to get aftermarket speakers -- the 6CD changer means nothing to me without a good sound system!!! The current sound just doesn't cut it. I have the moonroof deflector, but it seems the roof rack still obstructs about 4 inches from the moonroof -- so where was the logic in having the cross bar there???
Those things aside, I love everything about this car - but I will say - I bought it from my credit union autobuying service and I don't think the actual dealer prepped the car beforehand: I had -- 60 lbs of pressure in my tires!!! Allignment was also off by 1/8th. Also couldn't find the seat belt latches in the back, but I dug for them.
Oh...and to that post moving to LA - I live in LA, CA... and I'd go for the automatic all the way.... I love not having to drive a stick shift in this traffic!!
Also - was thinking about getting after market leather - because it can't be factory installed -- but it's just too hot for me. You stick to the seats in the summer, and slide off them in the winter.
Would love to know how other owners are faring as the months pass...
Jim Ellis in Marietta Ga has 15 P5's! 6 black, 4 red, 3 silver, 1 blue, 1 white 5-speed, the rest are all auto..... still looking for a blue 5-speed!!!! Quoted me $100 over invoice!,but......now they are stalling on the financing?....no bad credit, no good credit, ie nothing there. mmmmmmhhh doesn't look good..
OK, so I'm breaking down and buying a P5. The 1990 Dodge Shadow with 130k miles just has to go.
It's really hard to get a deal in Houston, as car demand is high because of all the flooding we had about a month ago. So I'll be paying MSRP minus the $750 local Mazda "flood rebate" that only a couple dealers are honoring on the P5.
I'm getting a silver 5-speed with ABS & moonroof. I like the black best but black exterior with black interior in Texas? I think not. The dealer doesn't have one of these on the lot (lots of automatics, nearly zero 5-speeds) but located one in San Antonio they're having trucked in for me. It should get here tomorrow, but it might not be ready for a couple days because I'm having the dealer tint the windows (that heat thing again).
One comment on wind noise. I'm getting the wind deflector for the moon roof but I'm curious as to what other people have heard. I test drove two of these, an auto and a 5-speed, both without moon roof, and even at 70-75 mph I could barely hear the roof rack noise, and I was definitely listening for it because of what I've heard on this forum. Is it the combination of open moon roof and roof rack or what?
Word of warning to new P5 owners. I bent a rim on a pothole a couple of weeks ago and there are NO replacement wheels in the entire US according to two local dealers. It appears that I will have to wait at least one more week before I get a replacement wheel. Bottom line: Bent rim, you're driving on a doughnut for at least 3 weeks waiting for a new wheel. I will never buy a new car again (at least not one made in Japan).
That's the cost of the better handling aspects of low-profile tires: rims are more vulnerable to damage from potholes and curbs.
The same thing happens to BMWs, Mercedes, Lexus, etc. if you have low-profile tires and hit bumps at high speed. I wouldn't hold it against Japanese makes specifically. I've seen a Mercedes S-class in my neighborhood that is just asking for bent rims. Looks like she has 19in wheels with tires that look to be 30-aspect. I've never seen tires like that on anything but "slammed" Civics and pickups before. Looks cool, but I bet it cost a bundle and will likely cost more if she drives on anything but smooth surfaces, Mercedes or not.
I think the P5s have 195/60R16s standard, with an option to got to 17-inch wheels and 50-aspect ratio tires? I personally prefer to stay at 60 and above (ride gets too harsh for my taste), to account for all the potholes around here. I guess that means I'll be sticking with the dinky 185/65R14s on my 99 LX, as the "upsize" option is 195/55R15s.
...but a funny story anyway (don't read if you don't like hearing about roadkill):
A friend of mine had purchased himself a brand-spanking new Chevette (they've been known to let go a good one every now and then, probably by accident).
He happened to hit a rabbit that dashed across the street in front of him. Next thing he knows, the front end of his car drops and he's dragging one of his front wheels. Had to tow it back to the dealer. Seems the impact with the bunny had knocked out the suspension of the wheel that ran over it. Naturally, the techs though he'd hit a curb or something. Tough rabbit.
Most cars require you run over a curb or concrete median strip to do that kind of damage (unless you live in NYC, in which case the garden-variety potholes there can do the same thing).
I have had my P5 for a week and like most people I love it. I was driving a 1996 Stratus w/ the same size engine but about 600 more lbs. I am wishing I got the manual, but my dad was in my ear talking about RESALE value.
I too don't like the stereo. Are there speakers out there that will significantly improve the sound? Or would I need to add boom boxes etc..... I don't want to spend alot of $ and time, and then not have a significant improvement.
I am a novice to car audio as you my be able to tell.
If the Protege5 is anything like the sedans, then a speaker replacement is a must!! First off, the factory speakers are Pioneers rated at 25 watts. The factory head unit can push 32 watts to each speaker. New speakers can do absolute wonders! The head unit itself is a good unit (Panasonic I believe). Look for new speakers with low impedence (less resistance, more sound from less volume). There are a lot of them out there, and you can drastically improve the sound for less than $150 per pair!! You can even add a small amplifier (50 watts or so) that will really give you great sound!!
Yes -- I got down to the crossbar bolts (that hold the uprights) and that's where the trouble was. My wrench was doing some damage and I just didn't want to keep shredding the bolts. A job for the dealer. Thanks though!!
With the moonroof open and the deflector in place I still hear a bit of wind noise, but I also notice that the engine itself is a bit louder than my Civic's was. Anyway, I'm torn between the look of the roof rack - which I love -- and better mileage/less noise without it. A toss up.
Thank you for the suggestions.... I will definitely look into the new speakers. Also - with standard tires for the Pro5, did I read that 60lbs of pressure was RIGHT??? I don't know much about tire pressure, so could someone tell me what it should have been when I got the car (given that I have the standard Alloys that it came with)... thanks. Jen
60 PSI is right for the compact spare. NOT right for the (P195/50VR16) standard tires. 32 PSI. Look at the manufacturer's sticker on the door. That's the bible.
Finally picked up my Blue P5, standard with A/C & moon. I can't believe the runaround the dealer gave me. Tried to charge me $50 cash out of my pocket because my trade in wasn't Aircared, it was fine when we made the deal but because it took so long to get the new car in, the engine went out of whack. Next he tried to charge me a $500 shipping fee. Anyway, told him there was no way I was paying. Finally drove out with everything in order. Got it with 5 klicks on the odometer, now it has 10. It's too bad my first new car buying experience sucked though.
Only complaint so far - the rear plastic license plate holder sticks out from the hatch at the bottom, so unless you are really gentle closing the hatch, it hits the hatch and makes an unpleasant sound. I guess I got used to slamming the hatch on my 85 Toyota Tercel.
I do not have a Pro5 (yet), so I don't have the manual in front of me. Check your owner's manual index for "Tires" or "Tire Pressure" also on my 323 the pressures are listed on a sticker on the driver's side door. On another car the sticker is on the gas filler door. The pressure may vary depending on the load you are carrying. Typically it is around 32 PSI.
The pressure number printed on the sidewall of the tire is the Maximum cool pressure. Do not exceed this.
Tire pressure varies with temperature. The hotter it is the higher the pressure will be. As you drive the tires will heat up and the pressure will increase (can be several psi). Because of this variable, check the pressures when the tires are cool.
Invest in a good tire pressure gauge and make it a habit of checking tire pressures once a month. It can make a difference in mileage and if a tire is over or under inflated it can spell disaster. (Ford Explorers...)
Finally picked up my Blue P5, standard with A/C & moon. I can't believe the runaround the dealer gave me. Tried to charge me $50 cash out of my pocket because my trade in wasn't Aircared, it was fine when we made the deal but because it took so long to get the new car in, the engine went out of whack. Next he tried to charge me a $500 shipping fee. Anyway, told him there was no way I was paying. Finally drove out with everything in order. Got it with 5 klicks on the odometer, now it has 10. It's too bad my first new car buying experience sucked though.
Only complaint so far - the rear plastic license plate holder sticks out from the hatch at the bottom, so unless you are really gentle closing the hatch, it hits the hatch and makes an unpleasant sound. I guess I got used to slamming the hatch on my 85 Toyota Tercel.
If you place the one bar across the license plate as they show in the picture, make sure to put something behind your plate so it doesn't start scratching off your paint. I'd personally avoid putting the bar there, since it's basically a "floating" support area. Perhaps it could mount on the lip of the rear hatch below the plate?
I have no problems with the license plate frame that I have. The hatch door closes with a nice firm thunk, and feels very solid. Try taking off the holder and replacing it with something a bit smaller.
In regards to the bike rack at Dick's, I would be very leery of supporting anything from the spoiler like that. It is one thing to attach to the top of a hatch and have straps smooth over the back, but this picture makes me very nervous. I would worry about ripping the spoiler off.
As far as I'm concerned, there are only 2 choices, roof rack and hitch mount rack because of the spoiler. Has anyone measured how much clearance you need to be able to open the hatch. The nice part of the hitch mount rack on my sedan was that even with the bike on the rack I had access to my trunk. I would like to still have access to the hatch with a bike on, but I need to know how much clearance I need. I know some hitch mount racks pivot down, but I don't think that they do that with a bike on.
I think I'm inclining towards a hitch mount rack again, if I can figure out the clearance question. Please keep posting information. I'm very interested in everyone else's solution.
I'm interested in tracking folks' experiences with the 195/50R16s, as I'm looking for a P5 sometime before they go to a Focus-based design. Seems most paving companies around here aren't very good. Potholes start showing up within a year of when they repave a road or lay down a new one.
I'm still toying with the idea of going to 195/55R15s from my 185/65R14s (sound small, don't they?) on my 99LX to get better handling in the curvies. Since there're plenty of potholes, ridges, dips etc. in the roads around where I live, potential damage to rims is a concern to me.
Noticed all the chat about tires and tire pressures in previous messages... Our P5 has the standard Dunlop 195/50R16s. Noticed this morning when I checked them that the max. pressure on the sidewall says "51 PSI"! Suggested pressure in the operator's manual and on the door jam is 32 PSI. DON'T fill them up above 32 PSI or so or your ride will be really harsh and you run a real risk of blowing out your tire in a pothole. The only tire on the P5 that needs that high pressure is your "donut" spare in the trunk!
Also, I usually won't own a car without getting a maintenance manual for it. Too many "gotchas" if you try to do some things yourself with little knowledge of what you're getting into. Inquired at the local Mazda dealer and was told that the P5 may not have a maintenance manual published at all. Most likely will be some kind of a maintenance supplement on a CD-ROM from Mazda. Thet were unsure if it would be made available to the public or simply be sent to the dealer shops. I find this VERY disconcerting for those of us who like to do our own maintenance on the small things we can attempt on our own. Especially if this signifies a trend in attitude of the car manufacturers... Anyone else had any feedback about maintenance manuals for the P5?
Delivery guy-don't worry. Smostorm stated that it has been extended to 10/1. It's probably just a ploy to get people into the dealer. We should all be fine.
Made in Japan. We got ours yesterday. First impressions: nice ride, lot of car for the money, average audio system that should be little bit better. My '97 Civic had a better sound.
Comments
I'm going to be heading down to my dealer's parts department to pick up some touch-up paint this weekend. I hope that I never have to use it, but road construction around here is in full swing. YIKES!
Anyway, I was thinking about getting some of the following items from Mazda for my new baby. Any opinions on the following would be most appreciated:
1. Moon Roof Deflector (Anyone DIY install this one?)
2. Floor Mats (What do they look like for the P5?)
3. Cargo Net
4. Mud Flaps
Zoom! Zoom!
RedShiftEd
Has anyone heard that Mazda may be boosting up the horse power of the P5 for the next model. If so to what amount. I thought I read it somewhere before but I can't find it.
Many thanks
TC1
F.Y.I. while I was looking around for my P5 here in cowtown. I was told that the dealership cannot install MUD FLAPS because of the GROUND EFFECTS. I found this hard to believe untill all the dealership in my area confirmed it.
TC1
Thanks.
MY QUESTION -
Has anyone found a Bike Rack they liked for the "5"? Was it a roof mount or a trunk lid mount? If Roof mount, did you have to buy new crossbars? Did it attach to the factory rails or crossbars?
Has anyone added a DC changer, OTHER than the in dash unit?
This car replaces an 87 Accord Hatch back with 160,000 miles on it. Hope it does as well!
The Cargo Net is nothing special, but it does help keep everything in its place.
I like the floor mats. They seem like they are pretty good quality and they have "Mazda" embroidered into the mat in silver. The good thing is that they are a perfect fit in the driver and passenger wheel wells, but they are $80.
By the way, the touch up paint is usually a special order unless your color was available last year on another car. I ordered that and a set of wheel locks last week and they just came in yesterday.
Hope that helps.
Ricart Mazda in Groveport..."they're dealin'" with the S-plan.
They had the P5 in silver, yellow, red, black and a white one a couple of nights ago. I think they were all automatics, though.
ZZ,
RedShiftEd
Thanks for the info. I'll check on the paint and probably get everything but the mudflaps. Strange about the flaps vs. ground effects, though. I'll take the ground effects over mudflaps, any day! I was more concerned about gravel or road debris flying along the lower sides of the car.
I test drove a different P5 about three weeks ago and the noise from the moon roof was a lot worse on that one. I'm not sure why. I am sure the deflector will cut down the wind noise a bunch. It seems to come mostly from the front roof rack cross member.
ZZ,
RedShiftEd
I'm still looking for a bike rack, either roof or trunk mounted.
Hitch racks usually require 2" hitches. Some will fit a 1-1/4" hitch.
Pick your poison. Roof racks keep the bikes out of your line of sight and keep them from getting damaged by your getting rear-ended. However, you have to get them up there and they make a lot of wind noise and really increase your wind resistance. Expect to carry 2, maybe 3 bikes on a Pro. I like the Mondial and Saris roof racks.
Trunk racks can scratch your paint where the pads touch your car. The bikes are exposed to rear-ending and stick out past the sides of the Pro. However, they're easier to load and there's less wind noise. They're also the cheapest. Capacity ranges from 2-4. Rhode Gear, Saris make nice trunk racks.
The same goes for hitch racks (except the paint-scratching). They can be more convenient than trunk racks in that some can pivot down out of the way of the rear hatch. They cost more and require installation of a hitch. Capacity ranges from 2-5 (typically 2 or 4). Rhode Gear, Saris, Graber make nice hitch racks. However, most don't accomodate "Y" frames or other designs that deviate too much from the traditional triangular truss design. I've heard of one made by a northwestern-based (WA, OR?) company that can accomodate various frame designs, but I don't remember the name. I'll find out from my co-worker who has one.
I'm very interested in a Protege5 with a manual but I will be moving to Los Angeles within a year...Does anyone think it would be foolish to have a five speed there? Is it worth getting the automatic?
Stereo - What is the size of the front door speakers? Has anyone had experience with removing the factory stereo head unit? I will be installing my MP3 Kenwood unit and would like to know if there are any tricks on how to get the faceplate off w/out damaging any parts.. I suspect that it starts by removing the cover wher the MD Player would go...
Dave
Refer back to messages 732, 733, 735 & 738
I got my P5 a couple of weeks ago and I love it. I've got almost 2k mikes on it already.
I needed a roof rack quick, so I couldn't get one of the generic ones and I didn't want to use extra load bars and stanchions. I went to my LBS and found a great solution. He had some mounts for an old Thule system that never quite caught on (Thule Design 800). If you look at the stock load bars on the P5, you'll notice a rubber strip that runs across it. This strip hides a channel. The 800 had a similar channel and this kit fits perfectly. The only catch here is that you have to find a Thule 529 bike carrier and you'll have to shorten the tray (cutting) about 3" to clear the spoiler.
This setup cost me less that $100 for one rack. If anyone is interested, i can get more of these adapters for cheap. You should probably be able to get the 529 carrier used for about $50. maybe try e-bay.
The look is very clean and gas mileage didn't suffer too badly. New engine, one bike (Ibis Mojo, hee hee), and loaded with camping gear on the inside, I got about 26 mpg. That was going about 80 or 90, so the rack is very secure.
Hope this helps.
Those things aside, I love everything about this car - but I will say - I bought it from my credit union autobuying service and I don't think the actual dealer prepped the car beforehand: I had -- 60 lbs of pressure in my tires!!! Allignment was also off by 1/8th. Also couldn't find the seat belt latches in the back, but I dug for them.
Oh...and to that post moving to LA - I live in LA, CA... and I'd go for the automatic all the way.... I love not having to drive a stick shift in this traffic!!
Also - was thinking about getting after market leather - because it can't be factory installed -- but it's just too hot for me. You stick to the seats in the summer, and slide off them in the winter.
Would love to know how other owners are faring as the months pass...
Cheers!
After you took out the phillips head screws, did you pull apart the plastic covers? They hide the bolts that hold the uprights on.
Derek
It's really hard to get a deal in Houston, as car demand is high because of all the flooding we had about a month ago. So I'll be paying MSRP minus the $750 local Mazda "flood rebate" that only a couple dealers are honoring on the P5.
I'm getting a silver 5-speed with ABS & moonroof. I like the black best but black exterior with black interior in Texas? I think not. The dealer doesn't have one of these on the lot (lots of automatics, nearly zero 5-speeds) but located one in San Antonio they're having trucked in for me. It should get here tomorrow, but it might not be ready for a couple days because I'm having the dealer tint the windows (that heat thing again).
One comment on wind noise. I'm getting the wind deflector for the moon roof but I'm curious as to what other people have heard. I test drove two of these, an auto and a 5-speed, both without moon roof, and even at 70-75 mph I could barely hear the roof rack noise, and I was definitely listening for it because of what I've heard on this forum. Is it the combination of open moon roof and roof rack or what?
The same thing happens to BMWs, Mercedes, Lexus, etc. if you have low-profile tires and hit bumps at high speed. I wouldn't hold it against Japanese makes specifically. I've seen a Mercedes S-class in my neighborhood that is just asking for bent rims. Looks like she has 19in wheels with tires that look to be 30-aspect. I've never seen tires like that on anything but "slammed" Civics and pickups before. Looks cool, but I bet it cost a bundle and will likely cost more if she drives on anything but smooth surfaces, Mercedes or not.
I think the P5s have 195/60R16s standard, with an option to got to 17-inch wheels and 50-aspect ratio tires? I personally prefer to stay at 60 and above (ride gets too harsh for my taste), to account for all the potholes around here. I guess that means I'll be sticking with the dinky 185/65R14s on my 99 LX, as the "upsize" option is 195/55R15s.
A friend of mine had purchased himself a brand-spanking new Chevette (they've been known to let go a good one every now and then, probably by accident).
He happened to hit a rabbit that dashed across the street in front of him. Next thing he knows, the front end of his car drops and he's dragging one of his front wheels. Had to tow it back to the dealer. Seems the impact with the bunny had knocked out the suspension of the wheel that ran over it. Naturally, the techs though he'd hit a curb or something. Tough rabbit.
Most cars require you run over a curb or concrete median strip to do that kind of damage (unless you live in NYC, in which case the garden-variety potholes there can do the same thing).
I too don't like the stereo. Are there speakers out there that will significantly improve the sound? Or would I need to add boom boxes etc..... I don't want to spend alot of $ and time, and then not have a significant improvement.
I am a novice to car audio as you my be able to tell.
Joe
With the moonroof open and the deflector in place I still hear a bit of wind noise, but I also notice that the engine itself is a bit louder than my Civic's was. Anyway, I'm torn between the look of the roof rack - which I love -- and better mileage/less noise without it. A toss up.
Only complaint so far - the rear plastic license plate holder sticks out from the hatch at the bottom, so unless you are really gentle closing the hatch, it hits the hatch and makes an unpleasant sound. I guess I got used to slamming the hatch on my 85 Toyota Tercel.
The pressure number printed on the sidewall of the tire is the Maximum cool pressure. Do not exceed this.
Tire pressure varies with temperature. The hotter it is the higher the pressure will be. As you drive the tires will heat up and the pressure will increase (can be several psi). Because of this variable, check the pressures when the tires are cool.
Invest in a good tire pressure gauge and make it a habit of checking tire pressures once a month. It can make a difference in mileage and if a tire is over or under inflated it can spell disaster. (Ford Explorers...)
Sorry for the run on.
Dave
Only complaint so far - the rear plastic license plate holder sticks out from the hatch at the bottom, so unless you are really gentle closing the hatch, it hits the hatch and makes an unpleasant sound. I guess I got used to slamming the hatch on my 85 Toyota Tercel.
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/entry.jsp?source=PE&entry=10415
If you place the one bar across the license plate as they show in the picture, make sure to put something behind your plate so it doesn't start scratching off your paint. I'd personally avoid putting the bar there, since it's basically a "floating" support area. Perhaps it could mount on the lip of the rear hatch below the plate?
Nomi
Nomi
As far as I'm concerned, there are only 2 choices, roof rack and hitch mount rack because of the spoiler. Has anyone measured how much clearance you need to be able to open the hatch. The nice part of the hitch mount rack on my sedan was that even with the bike on the rack I had access to my trunk. I would like to still have access to the hatch with a bike on, but I need to know how much clearance I need. I know some hitch mount racks pivot down, but I don't think that they do that with a bike on.
I think I'm inclining towards a hitch mount rack again, if I can figure out the clearance question. Please keep posting information. I'm very interested in everyone else's solution.
Nomi
I'm interested in tracking folks' experiences with the 195/50R16s, as I'm looking for a P5 sometime before they go to a Focus-based design. Seems most paving companies around here aren't very good. Potholes start showing up within a year of when they repave a road or lay down a new one.
I'm still toying with the idea of going to 195/55R15s from my 185/65R14s (sound small, don't they?) on my 99LX to get better handling in the curvies. Since there're plenty of potholes, ridges, dips etc. in the roads around where I live, potential damage to rims is a concern to me.
Also, I usually won't own a car without getting a maintenance manual for it. Too many "gotchas" if you try to do some things yourself with little knowledge of what you're getting into. Inquired at the local Mazda dealer and was told that the P5 may not have a maintenance manual published at all. Most likely will be some kind of a maintenance supplement on a CD-ROM from Mazda. Thet were unsure if it would be made available to the public or simply be sent to the dealer shops. I find this VERY disconcerting for those of us who like to do our own maintenance on the small things we can attempt on our own. Especially if this signifies a trend in attitude of the car manufacturers... Anyone else had any feedback about maintenance manuals for the P5?
Extended, changed? Thanks.......
We got ours yesterday.
First impressions:
nice ride, lot of car for the money, average audio
system that should be little bit better. My '97 Civic had a better sound.