Yeah, this has happened to me, too. The rust from the hubs will bind to the wheel, and make it tough. I have done two things - turned the steering wheel so the tire is at an angle, and used a rubber mallet on the inside of the tire to knock it loose. Another approach is to GENTLY lower the wheel to the ground with the bolts out [but the wheel locator tool in] and let a little weight of the car break the binding between the hub and the wheel.
And it's harder than you think to hurt anything here - these assemblies are designed to take a lot of punishment. The best approach has been the rubber or plastic-headed mallet - might want to carry one in the car. The thing is to not let the wheel get away from you when it finally breaks loose, since that is when the damage can occur.
I bought my wife a 2005 C230 Kompressor Sedan w/bells and whistels at the end of November last year as a Christmas present(I offered to buy a new Acura TL or a BMW 330i but this is what she wanted). For the first 3 months the black beauty drove like a dream. Since February it has been getting horrible gas mileage and it would die seconds after a cold start. I told them to check the fuel system and everything that associates with it. I took it to the same dealership that we bought it from. They told us that everything is fine...blah blah blah. After 5 visits from Mercedes of Fife, I took it up to Barrier Mercedes in Bellevue and told them to check out the entire fuel system. They found out that all of the injectors were leaking fuel while it was sitting overnight. Well, it has been almost a month and she's acting up again. I started her up this morning at 11:50am and it started but it bogged down...almost died...then it got the correct mixture. I immediately ran back to the exhaust to see what it smells like, and from past experience it smelled of pure gasoline!!!!!!!!!! I know I am not the only one having this problem. I'm calling MBUSA tomorrow and I am either getting a new car or a new engine!!!! I use Chevron Techron 92 Octane only, 300+ ASL, 60-75 average outside temp in south king county Washington. Would like to know if anybody else is having the same problem. I have worked on American, Japenese, and Euro cars for over 7 years and I would like to hear if anybody else is having the same problem with the same year and model.
I have a C230, 97. My check engine light has been on for about three years now, at first going randomly on and off. A dealership told me it's the air mass flow sensor, but the car has no typical symptoms like stalling, vibration or hesitation. Moreover, it passed the yearly emissions inspection twice with exaust results way below norm. So I never bothered, and the car runs and starts fine.
This year in New York you can't pass inspection with that light on. The dealership wants $900 to change the air mass flow sensor, yet they say the light could be caused by something else, in the absence of typical symptoms.
Get a new and correct diagnosis - get a dealer to connect to your OBD system and read the codes. If it isn't the MAF sensor, what's the point? You have to know what's going on, and that's what the diagnostic codes are for. No one on this board can help you without knowing the real problem - there are literally dozens of possible causes for a CEL - the initial diagnosis might have been right, but before spending that kind of money, I would check.
Also, look in your phonebook for independent MB shops - the dealer is always the high-priced spread, and not always necessary if the car is out of warranty.
Just bought it - a 2004 with the great roof, but at city speeds at least, when fully open, we get an awful buffeting inside the car - it lessens as you close the roof to say, half way - but this seems a waste of "air" -- any advice on this?
Does it have the tiny deflector at the leading edge of the roof. I would be a small piece that is on the part of the roof that pops up when open, that's the 'front deflector' for lack of a better term.
This small part redirects the airflow just a bit but was introduced on later models due to the buffeting concerns. You could speak to the dealer if it's not there and maybe they can attach one.
Another option is to just crack the side windows an inch or so as that relieves the pressure inside and cuts down on the 'booming' sensation.
Thank you very much, it sounds very logical. I'll go and get a printout before doing anything else. Do they normally include diagnostics in the repair price or is it a separate item?
Thanks for this -- no, the leading edge is flat -- i take it the thing is just a small sort of "ramp" thing? do you think it's available as an add-on? And yes, you are right - cracking the window does help, but then the noise is a factor -- call me fussy, but well, you know what i mean. If you know of how to get the little deflector i would be grateful -- thanks again.
another thought on this -- there is a deflector that pops up when the roof panel slides back -- i'm not sure if you mean that piece -- it is about 4 inches wide -- and obviously deflects some air upwards -- when you said "tiny" i figured you meant just that - but clearly, the thing that they have provided on the car is not deflecting sufficiently. do you mean an additional item to the one that is there on mine? Sorry to be obsessing on this -- but your note got me going!!
It is quiet literally a small hump and it's different from the one's you describe that pops-up. Even with the roof closed you'll see it. Picture a small comb laying on it's side just ahead of where the roof meets that pop-up piece. It is right in the middle and about 6 inches long and about 1/2 inch high, not much but enough to make a difference.
You could try just putting your fist at that point just sticking out of the roof when open to simulate the effect that piece has.
I don't know if the dealer can retro-fit this piece under some TSB but it looks to me like it would require a change of the part that pops-up because it's part of the trim of that part. There could be an add-on they developed for the older cars that glues on (like a spoiler). It would be worth asking.
Go to the web and just type c230 mb and all kinds of parts warehouse will pop out on my c280 cost me a rebuilt one for 148 and some change i the the website was importparts.com just check it out on the web, or another problem is your throttle actuator.
Last Friday, I paid for computer diagnostics at a dealership, and the result is quite interesting: they got the code for faulty MAF sensor (nothing else), then checked the sensor itself. It works fine, judging by the voltage, they explained. They cleared the computer codes, but during the weekend the Check Engine Light came back. So I can't pass inspection.
I called the dealership today and they only suggest changing the sensor (which works). This expensive proposition does not sound logical.
Thank you for your kind reply. Indeed, I seem to be really stuck with this problem. I had this mass air flow sensor tested by a dealership, because they were getting the only faulty code for this part on their computer diagnostics. But it works fine, they told me, when they tested the voltage.
Should I go ahead and change it anyway?
What are the symptoms for a faulty throttle actuator?
I don't know what to tell you - experts think you need a new MAF sensor - I'd find someone to do it at the lowest possible cost, but make it clear you are really trying to get the thing to pass inspection. No, pass, no pay?
The faulty throttle actuator should make itself known by stalling, inability to accelerate when you hit the gas...things that could feel like a bad fuel pump or injection issue, but in fact can sometimes be the electronic doo-hickey that substitutes for a throttle linkage these days.
I bought a 2001 MB four months ago. If it sat 2 days the battery was dead. After a new battery it still did the same things. I took it two different dealers spent 630.00 finding out what the problem was that was draining the battery. It was tele-aid control module and overhead control module. the cost for parts is 914.00 and 636.00 plus labor the total cost 2,077.00. I might add I make sure I start it on the second day its set, to keep the battery charged. Tel-aid the SOS button.
REST button on the climate control allows the fan to continue operation after car has been turned off to maintain cabin temperature. Many people do not realize that if you just turn off car while A/C has been running, water drops will form around the coil inside. It is like water drops cover over a cold bottle of water. These water drops could collect inside and grow mildew and other odor causing stuff.
I have heard recommendation that before you turn off the A/C, you supposed to let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil.
Have the same problem on my car, which is a 3 year old C 220CDI. Started earlier this year, but was intermittent and wouldn't show when taken to the regular dealer (and still in warranty). Of course it's now out of warranty and whilst at a different dealer for the 'B' service it manifested its self. The tech report say's it's to do with the heater box. Yet to discover the cost involved to fix, should find out this week, but it's good to know that its a known problem.
The 2004 C240 does not have a rest button. So how do you let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil? I would also like to know what you suggest if mildew and other odor causing stuff has now formed and there is a sensitivity to the deodarizers MB uses? :sick:
I'm new to this forum and I think I posted this in the wrong place earlier today....in the "Meet the Members" forum but realize I probably should have posted it here...sorry.....
I need some help/advice:
My 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, six speed, has a strange vibration between 20 and 30 mph from the front end. The dealer diagnosed the problem as something in the transmission. They discovered a casting flaw in the transmission housing and decided to replace the entire transmission. This was a two week process due to parts required from Germany.
The new transmission did not solve the problem. I took it back and they proceeded to subsequently diagnose the problem with the following resolution:
Repositioned Exhaust, Repostioned Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing, Removed and Isolated Heat Shields and Sound Insulation Shields. This was another two day process.
The problem persists....again between 20 and 30 MPH. I had the tires checked and balanced etc. If I get up to speed and put the car in neutral and just coast at 20 to 30 mph while not in gear the problem persists....not the tranny I would assume?
Has anyone else had a problem like this? If so, any solution? I would appreciate any help as I love the car and really enjoy driving it. Only 13K miles on it and I had hoped for a lot more than that before moving on my next car.
I would probably turn off A/C few minutes before I get to my destination to dry out or warm up the coil inside. My A/C in C230 put out cold air for a while after I press the A/C button to turn off. Only thing is you have to remember to do that.
I've had my 2005 C320 for 2 mos. The "Check Engine" line has come on 3x. They can't come up with the solution, so they replaced the air pump the first time and a modulator the second time. They don't know why it keeps coming on. The last time it came on, it shut off after 4 days. Since there seem to be several owners who have had this trouble, has anyone considered enforcing the "Lemon Law" and try getting a new car or are you still working on getting it corrected? Last, has anyone actually had the problem permanently corrected? Thanks.
Thanks for the thoughts....I had the rims and tires checked....all appears o.k. The vibration does not come through the wheel. It is actually more like a flutter sound between 20 and 30 mph. I went on a fairly lenghty drive over the weekend and it seems now to be more intermittant as opposed to constant.
I'm going to return to the dealer just have them double check the work performed to see that everything was replaced properly after the last round of service. Overall though, I love the car. It looks great, performs great and sure gets a lot of looks and compliments!
It sounds like each "light" may not be related. Usually, the only time the engine light will turn itself off, is if the gas cap was loose and then retightened. After a few days of the systems self check, it will erase the light if the fault is not seen again.
I hope this is not an omen of things to come. In addition to vibration at 20-30 mph, my c320 was shifting erratically at those same speeds. It has been back in the shop for a week now awaiting parts from the fatherland. They told me and i quote:
'This is a known problem, we have had several of these.'
You should also look into the Lemon law guidelines in your state if you are e-mailing from the US. Your car is going to give you a lot of trouble and the cost to fix these cars are very, very high after the warranty runs out. My C240 has a lot of problems. You are early in the ownership of your car so you have a great chance to maybe get out of it now. It wont be easy but it might be worth the try. From reading your posting, it seems that you have brought your car in for service on three separate occasions for the same problem. Again, you should look into the lemon law when you have a moment.
This sounds like an alignment problem. The frame may be out of square at worst. However, I have devised a way to to check it out for yourself if you are into that. First I jack the car up and spin each wheel fast enough to see if the tire and rim travel in a straight line. They are never perfect (unless you spend a lot of money on tires and rims) a little is not that bad. If they are not too bad then put a lasar level across each front wheel pointing at a wall around 3 to 5 meters away. I use bungee cord to hold the lasar level tight against the wheel. Mark the lasar dots' location on a level line on the wall. Now measure the distance between the levels where they stick out foreward from the tire making sure they also are measured level longitudal and laterally. Let the weight of the car down on the tires and get the lasars pointed at the level line on the wall that you made for the first measurements while letting the weight down(so you dont need to move the lasar from it's position). Mark the lasar dot locations on the wall in a different color pencil. Measure the distance between the ends of the levels again. If the measurements between wall marks changed when the weight of the car was appied then there is wear in the steering linkage. Compare the level end measurement with the distance between the lasar marks on the wall. If the dots on the wall were further apart than the lasar ends were then the wheels are pointing outward. Rear wheel drive cars are usually designed to have "toe-in" of somewhere around 1/16th up to a whopping 3/8 inch. They allow more for vehicals that will be towing stuff or hauling heavy loads which changes the toe a little under those conditions. If your rear wheel drive car has some "toe-out" then the symptoms would show up at certain speeds as a fluttering vibration. The tires would be drifting outward as they roll and shifting back to center repeating quickly giving you the vibration. It stops as the speed changes because the quick shifting of the tire back to center begins to transform to a constant slip. If the exclamation point is flashing on the dash when the vibration happens then the transmission will act differently to reduce loss of grip to the road. I have the same car. Also measure the fronthub to the backhub on each side just to be sure they are the same. Do it a few times recentering the steering wheel each time to get an accurate measuremnet. If they are not then the wheels location on the suspension has shifted and will cause some of this too. It is easily adjusted but not if the frame is out of square. Then you'd need a frame shop. Unless you want to start building some tools which could be fun too. waade7
in 4th gear during a low speed the break band is being released and golts the final drive { clonk} plus the pressure goes down to 0. in 3rd gear is all o.k. would anyone knows what is wrong with it or how to solv this problem? Thankd you
ihave a mercedes 190 d 2.d with an auto box. with autobox in drive and when slowing down to about ten miles an hour from say 30mph, or any speed,the transmission clonks.at this point hydraulic the pressure of the transmission fluid drops to zero. it appears that the brake band is being released suddenly.this does not happen when auto box is in third gear. please can anyone help? or let me know where i can get expert advice on this. many thanks, Eliot.
Eliot, you clearly need to seek the services of a skilled MB technician, either at a dealership or an independent. It's my semi-informed opinion that the valve body in the transmission is shot, but it could be literally a dozen possible problems, all of which are going to cost big bucks to fix. I don't think anyone on the board here is going to be able to save you from either the diagnosis or the ultimate repair expense.
:sick: I own a 2001 C320 that is now out of warranty. I have a major electrical problem that no one seems to be able to fix. Total drain on battery if car is not driven in 24 hours. I just spent $1500.00 for a shop to tell me that they have tried everything in there power to fix this problem. The local MB dealership has now had the car for over 4 months and I have now been informed that they can't get the car to even start. The total bill at the MB shop at this time is now reaching $3,000.00 with more to be spent. Has anyone else had this kind of problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I recently purchased a 2000 C230K with 89K miles. It has a few problems which I strangely did not notice when I first evaluated the car. The engine must crank for a couple moments before ignition (not an instant, key to start = engine running, like my 1987 190E). This problem occurs warm or cold. Occasionally when the engine is cold, it will seem to stall at the moment of ignition, but then rev's up to about 1200 rpm and begins the warm-up process. It has an irratic roughness at idle, warm or cold, feels like an occasional slight misfire. During acceleration when cold it has noticable hesitation. When warm the hesitation is not as noticable, although it doesn't seem to be as smooth as it should. Under full accceleration it seems to do pretty good. After turning the ignition off, the motor has a slight shudder, but no run-on. The 02 sensor and air injection valve were replaced just prior to my purchase. Since I've had the car, 4K miles, I've replaced the spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter. No change. I added 12 oz of techron and a bottle of heet (water dryer additive) to about 5 or 6 gallons or fuel and drove it under as many fuel throttle accelerations as practical. It didn't help much, if any. I removed the MAF sensor and sprayed what I could with electrical contact cleaner. No change. The service print-out I received indicated that the car was well maintained except there is no indication that the fuel filter was ever replaced in 89K miles. I suspect the fuel injectors are worn. How long do they usually last. I can probably purchase and replace the injectors myself for the cost of a MB diagnostics. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Sir/Mam.. I have the Mercede-Benz C230k 2002 / 56k miles about almost one year, when I start in the morning the niose very bad, after 3 munites the niose is normal.
2nd problem is the"CHECK ENGINE " Lights on, the Light show up almost 3 months ago, I do not know what to do and the car is running O.K so far.
My Question is What is the most problem with my car?? Is it big problem?? How Can I check the Code of Check Engine Light on??? Please help me out.!!!! Thanks,
At least part of the answer to both of the above posts is that the supercharged 4s are VERY nasty on cold startup - noisy, rough, sounding like crap for the first few minutes. In this case, I'm sorry to say that whomever said it was "normal" was, for a change, right.
Long cranking is subjective - I'd have to count how many seconds it takes before it fires to know if there is something worth pursuing here. More than 5 seconds would be grounds for having it looked at, but It's possible this is just what they do when they get 90k miles on them. Yes, injectors are a possible suspect, and I don't know if they are a generic weakness in this engine, but 90k seems premature to me. It could be the cold-start circuit - that part of the computer software that determines how much extra fuel to give it on a cold start. If it seems to run roughly all of the time, then it can only be fuel or ignition - are the plug wires OK?
The '02 is actually a different engine, but not much better in terms of refinement - your cold start noises are probably just what it will sound like pretty much forever.
CEL [check engine lights] are simply not something that can be diagnosed remotely. You must get the car to someone who can read the codes from the Onboard Diagnostic computer, because there are literally dozens of possible causes - some simple and cheap, many not. If you live in a state with regular inspections, the car is going to flunk until you take care of it. Some of the auto parts chains [Autozone, etc] will attempt to read the codes for you at no charge, but they aren't likely to be able to solve many problems even with a correct diagnosis. There is no substitute for a good independent MB mechanic if you own one of these cars out of warranty - ask around. And this is a good opportunity for me to remind everyone that this is one of the reasons that the MB Club of America exists [MBCA.org] - members can help each other out on these kinds of questions.
My 2004 C 240 4 matic has a musty smell inside. Maybe the same issue you are having. We have a 2005 C240 4 matic which had a major interior re-design and has not had this problem
On the 2004 the ride has gotten very rough after 35K miles and the roof makes a thud like sound when I go over bumps. The outside temperature is now wrong also, it went as high as 149 degrees the other day and is always 6 to 20 degrees higher then the actual temperature. I will take it into the dealer on Thursday. We'll see what happens. I'm wondering if anyone else is having these type of problems.
One thing for sure, the 2005 is a much better built C class. .
Greetings -- Just joined the forum. I have a 2002 C240 sedan. It will need a brake job soon -- 69,000 miles (all interstate) on original brakes (I drive easy). Am experienced restorer of vintage German and British cars, and am considering doing it myself, especially since local dealer quoted me $650 for front pads and rotors, and another $560 for rear pads and rotors. Before I tackle this job, are there any unique things I should be aware of, or are Benz's much the same as Porsches and other Euro brands? I have found factory replacement front pad sets as little as $70, and rears for $55, with front rotors going for $50 each and rears for $35 each. At those prices, paying a dealer over $1,200 seems almost criminal. Thanks in advance.
You need to find another dealer. While electrical current draws are difficult, they shouldn't be that difficult. All the control modules on this vehicle are on a "CAN" network, so finding the culprit should be relatively straight forward. No joke.
If they have had the car for that long, and are telling you that it is going to cost that much money, then you need to tell them you will take your business elsewhere because they are totally incompetent.
Hi I own a 2001 C240 and I have had a lot of the same issues that you are mentioning...It got so bad that I was having to keep a jumper box in my car so it wouldn't leave me stranded places...like you, my vehicle is out of warranty, and I am very unhappy. The dealership first told me they needed to replace a pane, that it was diods?(sp) and now finally, I am hearing that it is actually a problem with the driver's side power seating having a short that is draining the battery...I too have spent thousands of dollars and am beyond aggravated...I haven't picked up my car yet to see if that did the trick...have you heard anything more on your car? I read another thread that said there was a short with the power seating, so maybe it is a common calamity with these lemons...anyways, I hope that helps.
Hi, I'm new to this message board and very happy that I have finally found it. I'm certain this will be a blessing for me.
I brought my C230K in at 500 miles becuase it drifted to the right. The dealer performed an alignment, raised it a little bit and added some bolts (I can't recall the technical name and don't have the paperwork in front of me). Anyway, the car continued to drift to the right so I took it back in. I was told that because of the sport suspension and performance tires the car will naturally drift. I bought that explanation and moved on. Now it is a year later and I have 11,500 miles and see that my front tires are very unevenly worn. I go back to the dealer and explained there is obviously a problem. They perform another alignment and give me two new front tires. Once again I drive off only to find the car still drifts to the right. I go back and they tell me "ALL" cars (Mercedes, BMW, etc) with a sport suspension and performance tires will drift. He said that the wear on my tires was due to the car being out of alignment; but (I can't tell if I have an alignment problem if the car is always drifting to the right). The car is doing the same thing as when I brought it in at 500 miles. Can anyone tell me if this is statement about all cars with sport suspension and performance tires is true? And or point me in the direction of some sort of written information about this. Thanks.
dango1: I've nevered owned an MB, but I did own a BMW 330Ci with the sport suspension, 17" wheels with low profile summer tires. It never drifted in the 3 years that I owned it. The high performance tires do tend to follow the grooves on rough pavements, but the car never drifts on smooth, level roads. I once owned a Honda that had a drifting problem due to defective tires. I wouldn't trust what this dealer is telling you. Take your car to a different dealer and get a 2nd opinion.
I have not seem much discussion regarding air conditioning problems with the C Class. I have a C-320 that experiences intermittent ac problems. Problems include the following: 1. AC shutting off without me touching the controls and unable to turn back on, (only to have it come back on --without me touching the controls--by itself a few minutes later). 2. The thermostat increases in temp without me adjusting it. (The temp only increases, it never decreases by itself). 3. AC continues to run AFTER I turn engine off and remove key from ignition. 4. Fan motor mysteriously speeds up or slows down while operating in "manual" mode. 5. AC blows ambient temp air and does not cool even though the thermostat is calling for 68 degree temp air.
I've pulled the 2 fuses and re-seated them which seem to help sometimes. Any insight or suggestions are welcomed. I plan to take the car into MB dealership next week. Fortunately I have an extended warranty!
Thanks for your reply. I have a friend with a 2005 BMW 330 and she said her car doesn't drift either.
I did call another dealer this morning and they told me that this problem is common with the C230 as well as other Mercedes models. He said that Mercedes won't do anything about this issue and that it has come up repeatedly. He also said he has sat in meetings with the sales reps and their answer to the problem is not to let go of the steering wheel.
I hope other dissatisfied MB owners will start speaking up about this problem and force MB to make it right.
Comments
I have done two things - turned the steering wheel so the tire is at an angle, and used a rubber mallet on the inside of the tire to knock it loose. Another approach is to GENTLY lower the wheel to the ground with the bolts out [but the wheel locator tool in] and let a little weight of the car break the binding between the hub and the wheel.
And it's harder than you think to hurt anything here - these assemblies are designed to take a lot of punishment. The best approach has been the rubber or plastic-headed mallet - might want to carry one in the car. The thing is to not let the wheel get away from you when it finally breaks loose, since that is when the damage can occur.
Thanks for your quick response - I'll try what you suggest. Also thanks for the great idea to keep a mallet in the car.
- paul_p
Thomas
This year in New York you can't pass inspection with that light on. The dealership wants $900 to change the air mass flow sensor, yet they say the light could be caused by something else, in the absence of typical symptoms.
Any ideas about how to deal with such situation?
Also, look in your phonebook for independent MB shops - the dealer is always the high-priced spread, and not always necessary if the car is out of warranty.
This small part redirects the airflow just a bit but was introduced on later models due to the buffeting concerns. You could speak to the dealer if it's not there and maybe they can attach one.
Another option is to just crack the side windows an inch or so as that relieves the pressure inside and cuts down on the 'booming' sensation.
JR
Sincerely, AlFed
Stu
You could try just putting your fist at that point just sticking out of the roof when open to simulate the effect that piece has.
I don't know if the dealer can retro-fit this piece under some TSB but it looks to me like it would require a change of the part that pops-up because it's part of the trim of that part. There could be an add-on they developed for the older cars that glues on (like a spoiler). It would be worth asking.
Good Luck,
JR
Last Friday, I paid for computer diagnostics at a dealership, and the result is quite interesting: they got the code for faulty MAF sensor (nothing else), then checked the sensor itself. It works fine, judging by the voltage, they explained. They cleared the computer codes, but during the weekend the Check Engine Light came back. So I can't pass inspection.
I called the dealership today and they only suggest changing the sensor (which works). This expensive proposition does not sound logical.
What would you do?
AlFed
I had this mass air flow sensor tested by a dealership, because they were getting the only faulty code for this part on their computer diagnostics. But it works fine, they told me, when they tested the voltage.
Should I go ahead and change it anyway?
What are the symptoms for a faulty throttle actuator?
Alfed
The faulty throttle actuator should make itself known by stalling, inability to accelerate when you hit the gas...things that could feel like a bad fuel pump or injection issue, but in fact can sometimes be the electronic doo-hickey that substitutes for a throttle linkage these days.
REST button on the climate control allows the fan to continue operation after car has been turned off to maintain cabin temperature. Many people do not realize that if you just turn off car while A/C has been running, water drops will form around the coil inside. It is like water drops cover over a cold bottle of water. These water drops could collect inside and grow mildew and other odor causing stuff.
I have heard recommendation that before you turn off the A/C, you supposed to let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil.
Same rules apply for the home A/Cs.
Hope this helps
I need some help/advice:
My 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, six speed, has a strange vibration between 20 and 30 mph from the front end. The dealer diagnosed the problem as something in the transmission. They discovered a casting flaw in the transmission housing and decided to replace the entire transmission. This was a two week process due to parts required from Germany.
The new transmission did not solve the problem. I took it back and they proceeded to subsequently diagnose the problem with the following resolution:
Repositioned Exhaust, Repostioned Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing, Removed and Isolated Heat Shields and Sound Insulation Shields. This was another two day process.
The problem persists....again between 20 and 30 MPH. I had the tires checked and balanced etc. If I get up to speed and put the car in neutral and just coast at 20 to 30 mph while not in gear the problem persists....not the tranny I would assume?
Has anyone else had a problem like this? If so, any solution? I would appreciate any help as I love the car and really enjoy driving it. Only 13K miles on it and I had hoped for a lot more than that before moving on my next car.
I also heard that rotors need to be changed every time. Is that true?
Thanks
YR :confuse:
The rotors typically will be an every other brake job thing, unless you drive it like you stole it.
Even though you had the tires checked, I'm wondering if maybe one of your rims is slightly out of round, or if their is a defect in one of the tires.
I hope this helps.
I'm going to return to the dealer just have them double check the work performed to see that everything was replaced properly after the last round of service. Overall though, I love the car. It looks great, performs great and sure gets a lot of looks and compliments!
I hope this helps.....
Regards
Tony
'This is a known problem, we have had several of these.'
P71
You should also look into the Lemon law guidelines in your state if you are e-mailing from the US. Your car is going to give you a lot of trouble and the cost to fix these cars are very, very high after the warranty runs out. My C240 has a lot of problems. You are early in the ownership of your car so you have a great chance to maybe get out of it now. It wont be easy but it might be worth the try.
From reading your posting, it seems that you have brought your car in for service on three separate occasions for the same problem. Again, you should look into the lemon law when you have a moment.
Regards
I have devised a way to to check it out for yourself if you are into that. First I jack the car up
and spin each wheel fast enough to see if the tire and rim travel in a straight line. They are
never perfect (unless you spend a lot of money on tires and rims) a little is not that bad. If they
are not too bad then put a lasar level across each front wheel pointing at a wall around 3 to 5
meters away. I use bungee cord to hold the lasar level tight against the wheel. Mark the lasar
dots' location on a level line on the wall.
Now measure the distance between the levels where they stick out foreward from the tire making
sure they also are measured level longitudal and laterally. Let the weight of the car down on
the tires and get the lasars pointed at the level line on the wall that you made for the first
measurements while letting the weight down(so you dont need to move the lasar from it's
position). Mark the lasar dot locations on the wall in a different color pencil.
Measure the distance between the ends of the levels again. If the measurements between wall
marks changed when the weight of the car was appied then there is wear in the
steering linkage. Compare the level end measurement with the distance between the lasar
marks on the wall. If the dots on the wall were further apart than the lasar ends were then the wheels are pointing outward. Rear wheel drive cars are usually designed to have "toe-in" of somewhere around 1/16th up to a whopping 3/8 inch.
They allow more for vehicals that will be towing stuff or hauling heavy loads which changes the
toe a little under those conditions.
If your rear wheel drive car has some
"toe-out" then the symptoms would show up at certain speeds as a fluttering vibration. The tires
would be drifting outward as they roll and shifting back to center repeating quickly giving you the
vibration. It stops as the speed changes because the quick shifting of the tire back to center begins
to transform to a constant slip. If the exclamation point is flashing on the dash when the vibration
happens then the transmission will act differently to reduce loss of grip to the road. I have the same
car.
Also measure the fronthub to the backhub on each side just to be sure they are the same.
Do it a few times recentering the steering wheel each time to get an accurate measuremnet.
If they are not then the wheels location on the suspension has shifted and will cause some of
this too. It is easily adjusted but not if the frame is out of square. Then you'd need a frame shop.
Unless you want to start building some tools which could be fun too.
waade7
And you have to let them have your car during that time. "Got Milk?"
I have the Mercede-Benz C230k 2002 / 56k miles about almost one year, when I start in the morning the niose very bad, after 3 munites the niose is normal.
2nd problem is the"CHECK ENGINE " Lights on, the Light show up almost 3 months ago, I do not know what to do and the car is running O.K so far.
My Question is What is the most problem with my car?? Is it big problem??
How Can I check the Code of Check Engine Light on???
Please help me out.!!!!
Thanks,
Long cranking is subjective - I'd have to count how many seconds it takes before it fires to know if there is something worth pursuing here. More than 5 seconds would be grounds for having it looked at, but It's possible this is just what they do when they get 90k miles on them. Yes, injectors are a possible suspect, and I don't know if they are a generic weakness in this engine, but 90k seems premature to me. It could be the cold-start circuit - that part of the computer software that determines how much extra fuel to give it on a cold start. If it seems to run roughly all of the time, then it can only be fuel or ignition - are the plug wires OK?
The '02 is actually a different engine, but not much better in terms of refinement - your cold start noises are probably just what it will sound like pretty much forever.
CEL [check engine lights] are simply not something that can be diagnosed remotely. You must get the car to someone who can read the codes from the Onboard Diagnostic computer, because there are literally dozens of possible causes - some simple and cheap, many not. If you live in a state with regular inspections, the car is going to flunk until you take care of it. Some of the auto parts chains [Autozone, etc] will attempt to read the codes for you at no charge, but they aren't likely to be able to solve many problems even with a correct diagnosis. There is no substitute for a good independent MB mechanic if you own one of these cars out of warranty - ask around. And this is a good opportunity for me to remind everyone that this is one of the reasons that the MB Club of America exists [MBCA.org] - members can help each other out on these kinds of questions.
On the 2004 the ride has gotten very rough after 35K miles and the roof makes a thud like sound when I go over bumps. The outside temperature is now wrong also, it went as high as 149 degrees the other day and is always 6 to 20 degrees higher then the actual temperature. I will take it into the dealer on Thursday. We'll see what happens. I'm wondering if anyone else is having these type of problems.
One thing for sure, the 2005 is a much better built C class. .
Ross
If they have had the car for that long, and are telling you that it is going to cost that much money, then you need to tell them you will take your business elsewhere because they are totally incompetent.
I brought my C230K in at 500 miles becuase it drifted to the right. The dealer performed an alignment, raised it a little bit and added some bolts (I can't recall the technical name and don't have the paperwork in front of me). Anyway, the car continued to drift to the right so I took it back in. I was told that because of the sport suspension and performance tires the car will naturally drift. I bought that explanation and moved on. Now it is a year later and I have 11,500 miles and see that my front tires are very unevenly worn. I go back to the dealer and explained there is obviously a problem. They perform another alignment and give me two new front tires. Once again I drive off only to find the car still drifts to the right. I go back and they tell me "ALL" cars (Mercedes, BMW, etc) with a sport suspension and performance tires will drift. He said that the wear on my tires was due to the car being out of alignment; but (I can't tell if I have an alignment problem if the car is always drifting to the right). The car is doing the same thing as when I brought it in at 500 miles. Can anyone tell me if this is statement about all cars with sport suspension and performance tires is true? And or point me in the direction of some sort of written information about this. Thanks.
Problems include the following:
1. AC shutting off without me touching the controls and unable to turn back on, (only to have it come back on --without me touching the controls--by itself a few minutes later).
2. The thermostat increases in temp without me adjusting it. (The temp only increases, it never decreases by itself).
3. AC continues to run AFTER I turn engine off and remove key from ignition.
4. Fan motor mysteriously speeds up or slows down while operating in "manual" mode.
5. AC blows ambient temp air and does not cool even though the thermostat is calling for 68 degree temp air.
I've pulled the 2 fuses and re-seated them which seem to help sometimes. Any insight or suggestions are welcomed. I plan to take the car into MB dealership next week. Fortunately I have an extended warranty!
I did call another dealer this morning and they told me that this problem is common with the C230 as well as other Mercedes models. He said that Mercedes won't do anything about this issue and that it has come up repeatedly. He also said he has sat in meetings with the sales reps and their answer to the problem is not to let go of the steering wheel.
I hope other dissatisfied MB owners will start speaking up about this problem and force MB to make it right.